Once did a 67 stang with a 6bang ,24hrs to completely remove engine and drive train and replaced with 351c C6 and 9in rear end ! We installed headers and spark plugs prior to install! It will fit! PS all with hand tools ,we had floor jack and engine crane !!other than that wrenches and ratchets!!
"Pains me to put a metric bolt in" -- Good man. This fella is living the dream, two classic muscle cars, frugal DIY, wife, home, garage. Dang son. Except the Cali part :/
Instead of climbing on the engine you can use a ratchet strap on the front to make it tilt more and no chance of personal injury which isn’t as fun, but ya know
I laughed too hard at seeing those exhaust welds. I understand the pain... currently rebuilding my '75 Maverick's C4. I am swapping the I6 250 for a 5.0 HO from a '92 F150. I had a guy do some exhaust work a couple of years ago, and they had welds that looked just as bad if not worse than yours. Also, I tried way too long to get that length of exhaust out and trying to finesse the curves around the rear axle. I ended up getting annoyed and took a Sawzall to it, haha. Good work, I am enjoying the series!
For real, exhaust shops can be seriously hit or miss. It's inspired me to attempt my own custom exhaust build for this project. Sounds like a cool build you have there, good luck on the swap!
@@noboltsleftbehind Good idea! What type of welding do you use? I am doing some research, and Mig welding seems like the way to go, but stick welding is cheaper. (Albeit harder to master.)
Good information, next video try to limit the camera swinging around so much (getting motion sickness). Excellent details shown, especially the bracket swap.
Yeah, I think you’re right. Depending on where the intake ends up, my plan is to either cut and weld the stock one or rebuild it completely with steel tube and heim joints.
They do make an actual plug for the dipstick hole. I got it from O'Reilly's, added a drop of sealer and hammered it in place. Very interesting solution for your dipstick dilemma. Any issues with your steering rack/exhaust clearance?
Didn't know that, good to know. So far no issues with the exhaust, but the steering linkage and hydraulic ram do seem to have issues. I'm addressing it in the next episode, but basically the engine required a little re-positioning.
It will be used for cruising probably the majority of the time, though I do plan on taking it racing occasionally. Is it slow shifting? I think mine might actually be an AODE if that makes a difference, I’m still figuring out the exact model
@@noboltsleftbehind I have the Aode it's not that it's slow shifting is actually a good daily trans the problem is gearing ull need to adjust the rear gear to compensate for the lack of torque the aod robs horsepower due to high gearing a good 3.73 should put it in the rite place for some fun and have the ability to cruise no problems
I will be honest, I thought on these explorer engines the crankshaft rotates the other way, but from what I’m getting from this video is the water pump turns the other way not the crankshaft am I correct?
Yes, crankshaft turns the normal direction which is clockwise when standing in front of the car looking at the front of the engine. Water pump spins opposite
Hello. I found a 5.0L v8 1998 Ford Explorer engine for sale with out the ECU nor transmission, but I’m not sure if I should buy it because it’s out of the car and I don’t know how to test it. Any recommendations on what I should check before buying this engine? Ps: I have a 64 1/2 mustang with a 260cid v8 and a C4.
Hey, so I’d definitely recommend doing a leakdown test on the engine to make sure it has good compression. You’d have to have an air compressor handy and the tester itself is pretty cheap. You can rotate the engine by hand and check each cylinder to make sure they’re holding air. If compression doesn’t a good and it spins freely, that’s a pretty good sign that the engine is healthy. Other than that, I’d recommend getting a borescope (I have a cheap one that connects to my phone, it works great) and taking a look at each cylinder through the spark plug holes. Carbon buildup on top of each piston is normal, but make sure cylinder walls look clean and have absolutely no gouges or damage.
I am doing the same thing into a 1967 Ford Falcon. I bought a front sump oil pan as you did, what timing cover and water pump did you use when you switched to front sump?
I'm not sure how I missed the dipstick in side of pan. That was what I was looking for. You have no idea how helpful your videos have been. The only thing that could help a bit more would be part numbers on some things. Thanks for all the extra work to film this.@@noboltsleftbehind
@@zachlister2162 ah yes, I almost forgot about the dipstick modification, so far it's worked out well. Glad I can help! If you need any part numbers, just leave a comment. I try and keep a list of everything I buy.
@@zachlister2162 yes I think that was the one I used, the part number is Dorman 904-256. The dipstick is for a small block Chevy, part number is Speedway 9101757.
Once did a 67 stang with a 6bang ,24hrs to completely remove engine and drive train and replaced with 351c C6 and 9in rear end ! We installed headers and spark plugs prior to install! It will fit! PS all with hand tools ,we had floor jack and engine crane !!other than that wrenches and ratchets!!
You’re a wild man! That inspires me to pick up the pace on my own swap.
"Pains me to put a metric bolt in" -- Good man. This fella is living the dream, two classic muscle cars, frugal DIY, wife, home, garage. Dang son. Except the Cali part :/
Instead of climbing on the engine you can use a ratchet strap on the front to make it tilt more and no chance of personal injury which isn’t as fun, but ya know
This is probably very good advice. I had shoes on this time at least
I laughed too hard at seeing those exhaust welds. I understand the pain... currently rebuilding my '75 Maverick's C4. I am swapping the I6 250 for a 5.0 HO from a '92 F150. I had a guy do some exhaust work a couple of years ago, and they had welds that looked just as bad if not worse than yours. Also, I tried way too long to get that length of exhaust out and trying to finesse the curves around the rear axle. I ended up getting annoyed and took a Sawzall to it, haha. Good work, I am enjoying the series!
For real, exhaust shops can be seriously hit or miss. It's inspired me to attempt my own custom exhaust build for this project. Sounds like a cool build you have there, good luck on the swap!
@@noboltsleftbehind Good idea! What type of welding do you use? I am doing some research, and Mig welding seems like the way to go, but stick welding is cheaper. (Albeit harder to master.)
@@ethanatwell2478 I mig weld (with shielding gas). It's been very easy for me to use so far, perfect for exhaust tubes.
I see an upload... I click like. Automatically 👌
I appreciate ya
@@noboltsleftbehind same. Exciting series. I'm hooked from across the pond
I always catch myself saying "Alright, so..." when I'm filming 🤣 if I notice I'm doing it, I'll redo it.
Haha I haven't been called out in the comments for it yet, so it must not be TOO annoying...
Good information, next video try to limit the camera swinging around so much (getting motion sickness). Excellent details shown, especially the bracket swap.
We used SOS pads in the engine bay, pressure wouldnt take off the 55 years oil stains, then painted, turned out pretty good.
That's a good idea actually, I'll have to try steel wool next time.
Very interesting swap. Excited to see the next video.
It's actually a great idea to get a whole car and for a swap like this
It’s the best, this is the fourth swap I’ve done this way.
The soundtrack is nice.
This is the one that answered all of my questions. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Nice job. You made it look easy.
Thank you sir. I think most of it is just the magic of editing
Good shit 👍🏻
Yahoo! Nice job, don't make me wait too long, lol.
Don’t worry, I’ll have it up and running in no time 😅
Ahhhhh, thats the part i was missing when cutting my hood 😂😂
Nice swap, you may need to modify your export brace to fit the upper intake manifold.
Yeah, I think you’re right. Depending on where the intake ends up, my plan is to either cut and weld the stock one or rebuild it completely with steel tube and heim joints.
@@noboltsleftbehind can’t wait for the next video. Happy wrenching
i feel like i say ok everytime on my videos so i get where you are coming from lol.
They do make an actual plug for the dipstick hole. I got it from O'Reilly's, added a drop of sealer and hammered it in place. Very interesting solution for your dipstick dilemma. Any issues with your steering rack/exhaust clearance?
Didn't know that, good to know. So far no issues with the exhaust, but the steering linkage and hydraulic ram do seem to have issues. I'm addressing it in the next episode, but basically the engine required a little re-positioning.
You will hate the aod unless it just cruising it and only Shorty's are going to work for the aod
It will be used for cruising probably the majority of the time, though I do plan on taking it racing occasionally. Is it slow shifting? I think mine might actually be an AODE if that makes a difference, I’m still figuring out the exact model
@@noboltsleftbehind I have the Aode it's not that it's slow shifting is actually a good daily trans the problem is gearing ull need to adjust the rear gear to compensate for the lack of torque the aod robs horsepower due to high gearing a good 3.73 should put it in the rite place for some fun and have the ability to cruise no problems
@@laautoworks good to hear, that Explorer 8.8 rear end I’m planning on swapping in actually has 3.73 gears in it already
I will be honest, I thought on these explorer engines the crankshaft rotates the other way, but from what I’m getting from this video is the water pump turns the other way not the crankshaft am I correct?
Yes, crankshaft turns the normal direction which is clockwise when standing in front of the car looking at the front of the engine. Water pump spins opposite
Hello. I found a 5.0L v8 1998 Ford Explorer engine for sale with out the ECU nor transmission, but I’m not sure if I should buy it because it’s out of the car and I don’t know how to test it. Any recommendations on what I should check before buying this engine? Ps: I have a 64 1/2 mustang with a 260cid v8 and a C4.
Hey, so I’d definitely recommend doing a leakdown test on the engine to make sure it has good compression. You’d have to have an air compressor handy and the tester itself is pretty cheap. You can rotate the engine by hand and check each cylinder to make sure they’re holding air. If compression doesn’t a good and it spins freely, that’s a pretty good sign that the engine is healthy. Other than that, I’d recommend getting a borescope (I have a cheap one that connects to my phone, it works great) and taking a look at each cylinder through the spark plug holes. Carbon buildup on top of each piston is normal, but make sure cylinder walls look clean and have absolutely no gouges or damage.
What headers did you use?
They’re Holley 6901HKR
I am doing the same thing into a 1967 Ford Falcon. I bought a front sump oil pan as you did, what timing cover and water pump did you use when you switched to front sump?
Nice! I just kept the same timing cover and water pump from the Explorer, oil pan bolted up just fine.
I'm not sure how I missed the dipstick in side of pan. That was what I was looking for. You have no idea how helpful your videos have been. The only thing that could help a bit more would be part numbers on some things. Thanks for all the extra work to film this.@@noboltsleftbehind
@@zachlister2162 ah yes, I almost forgot about the dipstick modification, so far it's worked out well. Glad I can help! If you need any part numbers, just leave a comment. I try and keep a list of everything I buy.
I can only find an adapter for a 7.3 diesel. What adapter and stick did you use? @@noboltsleftbehind
@@zachlister2162 yes I think that was the one I used, the part number is Dorman 904-256. The dipstick is for a small block Chevy, part number is Speedway 9101757.