So I completed this injector repair last weekend. After a week of driving in the city to and from work, I've gained about 2.5 to 3mpg. I also replaced my PCV, fuel filter, spark plugs (they were in terrible condition), distributor cap and rotor, cleaned the inside of my intake plenum since it had a ton of oil in it and also installed an oil catch can.
@@TheFixTech a little. I think I have a bad vacuum leak from my brake booster though. Going to replace that next and see if the engine gets any benefit.
@@layzorbeeemz7317 yes, go through all vacuum lines, especially the hard lines on the driver side valve cover, those tend to snap or kink causing problems.
@@TheFixTech yeah I was thinking of replacing all the old vacuum lines with rubber lines. I snapped one of them while taking the plenum off. Just gotta get like 10' of 1/8" vacuum line and go to town lol
@@TheFixTech Would love if you could do a video (or have a good video to reference) going through the vacuum lines. I don't have much experience with that, and haven't found a good resource to help walk me through that. But I feel like that might be my current issue. I have really bad idle issues, hesitation/stuttering under acceleration, and it's running really rich.
I have done a few mods to a 94 F-150 with the 5.8. Fabricated a 4" intake pipe, bump timing to 12°, removed factory muffler, and installed Mustang under drive pulleys. These got the truck to 21 mpg highway.
Just want to comment, that's about the best no nonsense straight forward dyi video I've seen on UA-cam and I've watched a lot of them.....well done and thanks.
Finally got to doing this on my 1992 5.0L...well all I can say is WOW. HUGE difference in power. I have yet to see mpg but I can just tell it's running better. Doesn't smell like gas at the exhaust like typical old Fords do. Thanks for the DIY. Helped a lot.
Looks like a fine job you did. Just a little something i learned many years ago, stuff a rag into those intake ports and runners when you open up the motor. Its way easier than pulling a head to remov a lost screw or washer.
I've done few mods to my 89 f150 Led conversion 200 amp 3g alternator Bucket seat conversion Crazy sound system Rear seat delete Locking tool box behind the front seats also custom welded made Repainted it to hemi orange Swapped the upper intake and Swapped in the jegs bandit efi after changing my mind and supercharged the motor putting a Eaton blower on top All in all new truck
Excellent video! I'm on day 2 of owning a pretty cherry 1991 Bronco with a 5.8. Already making a list of mods and tweaks and this is going to one of them. If I could share my underhood and engine room experience, any connector, rubber boot, rubber nipple, hose, plug, o-ring etcetera that finally gets seperated after years of being stuck together, gets a thin film of dielectric grease to help with easy removal later. It even helps with corrosion under the tubing (think aluminum thermostat housings) and doesn't wash away. Your future self will thank you!
The best bronco video I've seen. Besides the clear and easy to follow dialogue/instructions, I love the fact you use the right lighting and camera mounts to keep it all well lit and steady! Going to do a rebuild following this as my guide. Thanks!
Very informative video! I plan to do this to my 95 F250 with the 351W. The only constructive criticism I have is when dealing with O-rings for a fuel system, use petrolatum. That's what we use in the Jet engine world and it's very effective
Thanks for the great vids. I have since done the same on my 1991 4.9L. Two things I would tell folks with the 4.9L. 1. I was able to unclip the injectors without removing the manifold as the 4.9 intake has openings that allow it. 2. The factory replacement injectors are now 4 hole injectors so I did not need to cross reference the Explorer injectors (although they would have been cheaper).
Stand out job on making this seem achievable! Looking forward to doing same op on my 89 and hopefully gain a MPG or 2. Your step by step instruction and explanations are great
I got a 1988 5.8L f250 and I found a 1993 conversion e250 van with a 5.8L. It had only 30.000 about miles and I got the injectors out of it for cheap they look like one hole originals but had 4 holes in the bottom. I do get better fuel mileage with them. Also. You may want to change the alternator to the 130 Amp and 175 mega fuse upgrade. I did and it made a world of difference. . No power loss at all. I got an alternator from a 95 mustang with a v6. You won't be sorry
@@TheFixTech all good man. Also look up power steering upgrade. Find a 87-96 e150 -350 van with what engine you have . Make sure it's the same engine!!! Get the power steering bracket and pump. The pump should look like the black ones on a chevy. Ford did use them. No more steering whine. And better steering. Get the pressure hose too. You will have to modify end that goes into gear box but that's simple. Look up power steering upgrade. There are a few videos about it here. Also look into ignition module relocation for the 87-91 trucks and cars. It's easy. And I've had the same ignition module on my truck for about 6 years. Trust me. These upgrades help out more than you know
@@awh5773 I am hesitant on the power steering upgrade (Saginaw pump) as I heard it gives an easier steering feel, I personally like the firmness of my steering, but do hate the whine. Am still trying to figure out how to rid the whine while keeping the stock feel…
@@TheFixTech I tried about everything. But these low pressure pumps just keep getting rebuilt. But could not get rid of that noise. Its like finger nails on a chalkboard to me. I did the upgrade on my truck . It has stock feel. And wheels turn more easily sitting still. And no noise. Also the bolts for the a/c pump and bracket to block are the same. To me its better. Anyways keep the old ones running .
Great Video! I acquired a 1989 F250 4x4 truck in an old Ford dealership building (built in 1929) I bought in a small West Texas town. The truck was running when parked 23 years ago. It has 40,000 original miles. It has the 5.8 engine - the exact same as everything in your video. The registration sticker on the windshield is from the year 2000. The key was still in the ignition. I replaced all the tires, new battery, both gas tanks and everything that could be replaced from the tanks to the engine (fuel pump, filter, etc.). Replaced the fuel tank selector valve (on the rail), and the pressure regulator. Now that I've replaced all the fuel system I have plenty of fuel and pressure in the fuel rail, but the truck wont start. It will run on starter fluid, but won't start on its own. It seems to want to start - it seems to fire one cylinder or two - but won't kick over and run. I've never had to deal with a fuel injected engine before. Do you think that a truck sitting for 23 years could use new injectors, or from my description do you think it might be some other issue? I appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks
Since it starts with starter fluid then it sounds like a fuel issue and not electrical. With that said anything is possible so double check your spark plug wires and firing order, the 5.8 is different than the 5.0, check timing as well. The distributor pickup coil is known to fault and so is the ignition module. Check the coil for spark and check for spark at the plugs. Check the fuel pump relay and ecm relay (they are next to each other and should be replaced in pairs). Check the tps and iac sensor (both located on the throttle body) for 5v supply from ecm, if no 5v supply then either bad ecm, relay, or wiring. Also check for compression.
Saw this EV 6 Injector Upgrade on JunkYard Doggs for a 5.0 Mustang with Speed Density. It didn't bother the Computer and he said it gets better mpg's and run better. You can use a 9volt battery if you get used ones to check the injectors and spray them clean, but that's too much work to mess with used,lol.
As someone who actually watched your video and is in the middle of attempting this I will say you need to not make mistakes. I was removing the plenum and had a bolt fall into the intake manifold. My dad said absolutely no one would make a video and not say to plug the air manifold up. My mistake is costing me a world of trouble and something that could have been avoided.
Well youd think that would be common sense….. i do agree with your father though anytime youre exposing intake manifolds or intake you should stuff a rag in there to prevent stuff from getting inside. A little trick to remember is right after you take your plenum off immediately put clean rags in the holes clean the gasket surface then blow it off with an air compressor pull the rags out then put blue painters tape over the intake manifold holes it prevents anything from getting inside plus when youre done all you have to do is pull the tape off install your gasket and plenum and run it…..👍🏻
I'm sure there's other benefits to that comes along with that extra one or more gallon MPG, I'm sure that would help also clean the upper intakes with less deposit and probably a little bit better throttle response and a smoother engine might just have to give a go on my 94 5.0 this upgrade
Very nice! Subscribed & binge watching. I've been driving a 1985 Bronco for over 30 years. The wiring is tired. Plastic bits under the hood are all brittle & electronics are showing signs of old age just like me. I see a big can of worms ahead & am VERY tempted to convert to a carburetor. I have a pile of intake manifolds & carbs here. Might even have a distributor. The 85 has always been a pain to buy parts for , being a mid year change over to efi. Parts counter guy's can't cope.
I completely understand, going through a similar issue in my Firebird. Painless wiring does offer an engine harness for the 86 and up 5.0 but it is for the mustang so will need some modifications. You may be able to snag a used engine harness and ecm off a newer model off eBay, just be sure the transmission matches. You could also make your own harness (purchase wires and connectors, very time consuming) If all else fails, carb would be the way to go.
Thank you, as far as the pre bent colorful plastic vacuum lines go, they will either be a dealer item (discontinued) or a salvage yard/eBay. You can get new hard plastic line from local auto parts store but they will be black. You may find different colors online.
I have a 1991 F250 and when you look at the two injectors side by side the bottom tips are way different and FYI both injectors have 4 holes.... A real upgrade is going to 6 or 8 hole injectors that require adapter plugs but will also need to remove and modify your intake manifold unless you can find some Bosch EV14 19lb 8 hole .. What I did to the plastic end caps that snuggly fit inside the perfectly contoured aluminum intake manifold thats designed for the original design is took a countersink bit and opened up the plastic cap tip holes a lil and on a V pattern which exposes the 4 holes and gives them the same spray pattern as those so-called upgrades before theyre installed. What happens is that when the so-called upgrade injectors are installed the upgrades sit above the spot those rounded/tapered plastic tips fit into which actually tapers down and when the so-called upgrades sprays fuel into the engine the fuel spray hits the intake manifold where the plastic tip fits into and tapers down...... When I was looking at a datalog after installing those so-called upgrades I noticed that my engine was doing something it hadnt done before and that was pull over 7% fuel out of the short fuel trims and 11% from the longterm fueltrims so I bought the right injectors and using an old intake manifold and fuel rail plus a fuelpump and an fuel injector checker tool made my own flow chamber and noticed where the gasoline was hitting the 3/8" thick chunk of tapered down aluminum redirecting the spray like a diesel injector for the upgrade injectors so I put those so-called upgrade injectors back in the box and stuck them on the shelf because by using a very tiny countersinking bit opened up the ends of the plastic injector tips on the original style which gave an improved spray pattern. After installing the right style injectors with wider v shaped conical tip modifications yielded in my engine only needing a very small amount of fuel on the Short trim and zero on the long trim....... Then after I was finished I got to thinking and decided to take my old bridgeport mill and recess 4 of the the old intake injector holes by dropping them down 3/16" and opening up the thru hole 1/16" and left the other 4 injector holes untouched.. I also had mill off 1/8" off the tops of where the injectors plugged into to compensate in order to get the 4 upgrade injector bodies to drop down 3/16" lower without the injector body causing issues with it going that deep. After I got the injector height and fitment sorted I flared out the bottom of the holes on the opposite side of the intake to fit and flow the upgraded injectors then did another spray pattern test between the upgrades and the OEM injectors I modified the endcaps on and alls Ill say is theres no difference in the way the fuel is delivered between the two now but the mods for the so-called upgrades is alot more involved to get the same results................ I also had to slot the fuelrail bolt holes 3/16" higher to get the upgraded injectors to fit tightly too..
Did this mod on my 96 F-150 5.0 and now it’s running rich being at -23% on my long term fuel trim but got a lot of higher rpm power. Going to add a throttle body spacer to see if it helps lean it out a bit
We’re you able to find a new set of Bosch injectors, or reman from a reputable seller? You may have a leaking injector, check fuel pressure with engine running with and without pressure regulator vacuum.
@@TheFixTechThey were Bosch remanufactured but I ended up getting the stock size in Bosch and it seemed to fix my problem. I had a new regulator and I changed it just in case but it still didn’t fix my problem. I possibly have a different problem that was causing me to have issues
Stumbled upon this video, its great! Now im going to order the injectors and the pulleys (idea from comments) my 1995 f150 4x4 RCSB needs anything to gain some MPG
Great video. At 5:23 when you said be careful with the brittle vacuum lines..I broke off the white part of the connection that's attached to the block. Do you know the part and where to get it?
Very well put together video sir. Good explanations, good camera shots, good video pace, coherent sound. A+ I might see about getting some of those injectors to see if I can at least get my F150 running a little smoother. I'm sure all my intake gaskets are petrified and leaking vacuum.
I believe the size is either 5/8 or 1/2. They are usually sold as a set of multiple sizes and can be found at local auto parts stores. I prefer the plastic ones shown in the video vs the metal tool. Personal preference
Great video, just picked up a 94 F-150 with the 5.8 as little project. Couple tips though. I like to cut out a piece of card board to cover the intake and poke holes through it where the mounting bolts go to hold in place. afterwards, I use some sort of compressed air and quick dry cleaner before removing the inejctors to keep any contamintion from getting inside the engine when removed. This is usually because underneath there there's plenty of grease and oil that traps dirt, and I worry about the internals. Probably overkill but I prefer to play on the safe side. Will definetly be trying this out here soon. Which injectors did you go with? the ebay or amazon ones? Thanks again, super informative video and well put together
I wondered if there was any newer parts that would improve fuel economy and performance, may do this to my 95 F150 5.8. I've always hated the intake on these trucks, it's just bizarre but oh well lol Thanks for the video
Another mpg upgrade I haven’t talked about (one of the first things I did to this truck, but didn’t film) is upgrading to an electric fan combo, can be pricy but will get about .5 mpg and unlock more power from the engine.
Wow, I just got to tell you, what an excellent video you made. You made that look so simple. I have an 87 f150 5.0 I would love to do this upgrade. Right now my truck ain't running. I got spark, when I spay starting fluid into intake it starts but stalls. I here my fuel pumps kick on when I turn the key, for either tank. I pressed on schrader valve and nothing came out. My gas filter is clear blew through it. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. It started up three times and then died. All it does is crank. Not sure where to go from here.
great video, I am looking to buy a 95 Bronco and it has a huge upward spraying fuel leak. looks to be coming from the right rear of the motor my guess is the fuel rail is this a common issue?
BUEN TRABAJO COMPAÑERO MUY BUEN VÍDEO Y TIENE BUEN MOTOR 5.8 ES ORIGINAL ESE MOTOR ? QUE NUMERO DE CORREA USA, YO QUITE EL SMOG Y COLOQUE UNA CORREA MAS PEQUEÑA, SALUDOS DESDE VENEZUELA
Yes, engine is original. Please don’t use a smaller belt as pulley damage can occur. Instead use smog pump delete pulley in the place of the original pump, use original size belt.
It looked like a tab on the injector plug was broken. On my Mustang I installed the squeeze release plugs from a Crown vic so they don't wiggle loose. A safety pin to release one wire at a time is all it took.
Great video! Had a problem with one of those plenum bolts. Any idea where i can find a replacement bolt? I cant seem to locate it anywhere... any help is greatly appreciated.
question on installing the new injectors onto the fuel rail. my truck is the 87 f150 with the 5.0L. the injectors are ford OEM ones. Look 95% identical to what came out. the old ones were pretty difficult to remove from the rail. I put a bit of oil on the o-ring on each injector. they don't see to making that snap or click that your video is showing. what should I do here to verify that they are indeed locked in place? just a key on check with the rail back on the truck and fuel lines hooked up? I noticed that the mounting piece that the 4 bolts secure the rail the intake is notched...this allows some movement up/down for the rail. I had to loosen the 4 bolts and push the rail down at each corner to get them fully seated. then secured the 4 bolts. update: got them installed. wating on o-rings for the source and return lines. nothing locally available. the return ones were pretty groty. could have probably re-used the source line ones but better safe than sorry. your video was spot on in doing the job. btw, I took my valve covers off, sanded and painted them at the same time. kudos for your work documenting this job.
I know I’m a little late to the party but do you have to do any tuning or anything when changing these out? Does it mess up anything and run different if you don’t?
@@TheFixTech Awesome! Thanks for the response and the well informed video! I wasn’t sure if it would require it or not. Would you happen to know about adding shorty headers? Think it would need to be tuned afterwards?
I did this with My 302 and 351 getting ready fire up My 351 was told in forums instead of 12 MPG should get 18+ was thinking COLD intake with the original box those long hoses look like they heat up a little bit
I think 18 mpg is tough to get, maybe with a manual transmission and highway tires, and driving carefully. I can vouch that this upgrad improved my mpg by 1-2, depending on my driving.
Yes, much smoother idle, throttle response, and a slight bump in mpg. Plus helps with cleaner emissions. The old original injectors were dirty and worn/leaky
Yes, tire size and psi make a huge difference. Use the correct tire size and 35-40 psi. Is you have 92-96, make sure your speedometer (Psom) is set correctly (in calibration of the original tire size) as people do mess with them. Check speed sensors and TPS sensors makes sure they are in range, these will help with shift points and throttle response. Also coolant temp sensor.
Even though the price tag my go up a few dollars to upgrade the fuel injectors but if it's to actually help improve and give a little bit more extra gas mileage as well as burn off extra gas that's a win-win for me I have a 94 Ford XLT F-150 she has a 302 or better known as a 5.0 and she's only got 136,000 mi on the odometer
Thanks fotr the video. I went ahead and did this upgrade on my 1995 F-150 5.8 and when I fired up my engine the idle was super high (900 RPMs or so) and waverning. I'm gonna go back and put the old injectors in. Funny enough, the original injectors had 4 holes already so I don't think I"m gaining much by switiching to these newer ones. Anyways, is there anything I should look out for when doing the swap back to the originals based on the high idle? Thanks for the help!
High rpm may be a vacuum leak or intake gasket/throttle body leak. If you choose to return original injectors, have them cleaned and flow tested. Some auto parts store and machine shops offer this service. Truck will run and preform better.
Yes, this will work on the 4.9L, 5.0L, and 5.8L. Your truck may already have the 4 hole injectors but will still benefit from the newer style and from new clean injectors.
No problems at all, just be sure to get good quality injectors. If you decide refurb, purchase from a reputable seller that flow tests and batches them. The good sellers will provide a printout.
Any need to advance the timing after this upgrade. Great video. I was able to follow it step by step but after completion, I am running rich. I can smell the unburned fuel. Not a huge deal, I can advance the timing. Its currently at 10 degrees. I was just curious.
Shouldn’t run rich, no need to advance timing. Check your fuel pressure regulator, and all vacuum hoses. Did you purchased verified refurb or new units from reputable seller? You could have a possible leaking injector. Also check all ignition components, wires, plugs, cap, coil, etc. Also check for any electrical connectors not fully plugged in (I had a problem with that and it resulted with a check engine light) it was the purge solenoid controller located next to the ignition coil.
If you replaced the same 0280155715 they are actually 24lb injectors. Advance timing will work a bit but Ford has California and federal ecms that make a difference.
The ground from the battery on these trucks have 2 cables coming from the terminal. The thicker one grounds to the frame, the thinner grounds to the core support. You can purchase this specific terminal/cable from local parts store.
Yes that is correct, make sure to use the newer 4 hole style and purchase them from a reputable source, if they are refurbished make sure they are flow matched. The 300 engine is bulletproof by the way.
Are you still happy with these injectors? And did you consider having your original injectors cleaned instead of buying new? I have a 96 Bronco and am about to do replace or have mine cleaned. could you let me know your thoughts. Thanks
The 96 has good injectors, you can have them professionally cleaned and flow matched if cost is reasonable I would stick with those. Otherwise I do recommend the 97/98 explorer V8 Bosch injectors, I am very happy with the results I’ve gotten.
Think i may try this,, took my 94 F150 out of storage, replaced all electronics, it ran fine for 3 days, now barely starts and reeks of gas,,, no longer even driveable.
The injectors will definitely clog if the gas in the tank was sitting for awhile. Be sure to replaced the fuel filter first. Also check/replace the iac valve.
@@TheFixTech we drained the tank and put fresh gas in, it started and ran fine. 3 days later it started running rough and is now DOA. Took old fuel filter out, some crap came out of it and some water. Wondering if l should replace tank/pump, filter and install new injectors.
@@me109g4 Check for fuel pressure at the rails, prime the ignition a couple times, pressure should build up, if not then bad fuel pump. Fuel pump and ecm relays are also suspect.
@@TheFixTech I checked the pump pressure when we got it out initially. Most electronics were either replaced or sent out and rebuilt pump seems to power up and run. Hate to put new injectors in and clog them up to.
@@me109g4 I would check the pressure again with a gauge and while cranking. A bad fuel pump could sound good but have low pressure. If you smell a fuel odor check for spark at the plugs, could be a bad ignition coil, module, and or distributor. What year is your truck? Have you tried checking for any trouble codes? Clogged injectors would not cause a no start issue, and fuel odor.
Your engine bay looks super clean, did you replace all of the AC lines, wires and vacuum lines, if so where did you get them from. I am working on an 87 F150 5.8 and am struggling to find what I need.
Four seasons for the a/c stuff if not available from Ford. The rest is best to get from used trucks from salvage yards or eBay in good useable condition.
Going to do this swap and went to ford. According to the parts dept They are obsolete. They wanted a vin number and I don’t have one. Do you have a source where I can get these injectors. My shop on Monday will do the work
I just ordered a complete set of 8 injectors for my f150 92 model. It dose come with 4 holes but it's still the fat injectors is there a difference between the thin ones and the fat ones.
The thin ones are a newer style (Bosch 3) and are considered a bit more reliable. As long as your new injectors are 4 hole the fuel will atomize better than the originals. Also new injectors in general are always good
Yes, this works well on all 1987-1996 ford trucks. This will increase atomization of the fuel for better power and mpg. No computer calibration needed.
Just a quick tip, cycle the ignition on to pressurize the rail to check for leak before the upper plenum goes on.
Great tip!
You NAILED It.
check for leak exactly where
@luxmagnumofficial At all Injectors. (At the O'rings)
At the Schrader valve.
At the fuel line connection. (More Orings)
thank you. Question. Why didn’t he is gasket sealer with those two gaskets?
So I completed this injector repair last weekend. After a week of driving in the city to and from work, I've gained about 2.5 to 3mpg. I also replaced my PCV, fuel filter, spark plugs (they were in terrible condition), distributor cap and rotor, cleaned the inside of my intake plenum since it had a ton of oil in it and also installed an oil catch can.
Very nice! I’m sure throttle response better too?
@@TheFixTech a little. I think I have a bad vacuum leak from my brake booster though. Going to replace that next and see if the engine gets any benefit.
@@layzorbeeemz7317 yes, go through all vacuum lines, especially the hard lines on the driver side valve cover, those tend to snap or kink causing problems.
@@TheFixTech yeah I was thinking of replacing all the old vacuum lines with rubber lines. I snapped one of them while taking the plenum off. Just gotta get like 10' of 1/8" vacuum line and go to town lol
@@TheFixTech Would love if you could do a video (or have a good video to reference) going through the vacuum lines. I don't have much experience with that, and haven't found a good resource to help walk me through that. But I feel like that might be my current issue. I have really bad idle issues, hesitation/stuttering under acceleration, and it's running really rich.
Your engine compartment sure is clean
He don't drive it lol
I have done a few mods to a 94 F-150 with the 5.8. Fabricated a 4" intake pipe, bump timing to 12°, removed factory muffler, and installed Mustang under drive pulleys. These got the truck to 21 mpg highway.
Very impressive
Did you keep stock catalytic converter and what if any muffler did you use as a replacement?
@@joshuacotton6436 We kept the factory converter in place since the truck had very low mileage. No muffler was used.
What's an underdrive pulley?
@@Mr.Safety. A smaller diameter crank pulley that slows down the accessories and frees up a little power.
Just want to comment, that's about the best no nonsense straight forward dyi video I've seen on UA-cam and I've watched a lot of them.....well done and thanks.
What’s the name of your cat again?
yep he was born to make these videos they are amazing
Finally got to doing this on my 1992 5.0L...well all I can say is WOW. HUGE difference in power. I have yet to see mpg but I can just tell it's running better. Doesn't smell like gas at the exhaust like typical old Fords do. Thanks for the DIY. Helped a lot.
which injectors did you get where did you buy
Here with the same question 😂
Looks like a fine job you did.
Just a little something i learned many years ago, stuff a rag into those intake ports and runners when you open up the motor.
Its way easier than pulling a head to remov a lost screw or washer.
I've done few mods to my 89 f150
Led conversion
200 amp 3g alternator
Bucket seat conversion
Crazy sound system
Rear seat delete
Locking tool box behind the front seats also custom welded made
Repainted it to hemi orange
Swapped the upper intake and Swapped in the jegs bandit efi after changing my mind and supercharged the motor putting a Eaton blower on top
All in all new truck
Sweet!
@The Fix ik it's fun but I get about 100 per gas tank
Excellent video! I'm on day 2 of owning a pretty cherry 1991 Bronco with a 5.8. Already making a list of mods and tweaks and this is going to one of them. If I could share my underhood and engine room experience, any connector, rubber boot, rubber nipple, hose, plug, o-ring etcetera that finally gets seperated after years of being stuck together, gets a thin film of dielectric grease to help with easy removal later. It even helps with corrosion under the tubing (think aluminum thermostat housings) and doesn't wash away. Your future self will thank you!
Thanks for the tip, congrats on the Bronco!
The best bronco video I've seen. Besides the clear and easy to follow dialogue/instructions, I love the fact you use the right lighting and camera mounts to keep it all well lit and steady! Going to do a rebuild following this as my guide. Thanks!
Thank you.
Very informative video! I plan to do this to my 95 F250 with the 351W. The only constructive criticism I have is when dealing with O-rings for a fuel system, use petrolatum. That's what we use in the Jet engine world and it's very effective
Thanks, will do.
you mean use vasaline?
Thanks for the great vids. I have since done the same on my 1991 4.9L. Two things I would tell folks with the 4.9L. 1. I was able to unclip the injectors without removing the manifold as the 4.9 intake has openings that allow it. 2. The factory replacement injectors are now 4 hole injectors so I did not need to cross reference the Explorer injectors (although they would have been cheaper).
Good info, thank you.
How is going. Did you notice and MPG gains or power with this replacement injectors?
These injectors fit the 4.9?
Thank you. I have a 4.9 and I want to get better fuel mileage out of it
What part number for 4.9 liter injectors please?
Hello, this is a great and effective upgrade. Your truck will run smother and gain MPG!
just the video I've been looking for! great job ...clear, no annoying background music and VERY clear video.
Thank you
@@TheFixTech one question...what gaskets would you have to have on hand before starting this project of replacing the injectors?
Me too…perfect
NAPA sells a 6inch T40 bit for like 8$ highly highly worth it
Stand out job on making this seem achievable! Looking forward to doing same op on my 89 and hopefully gain a MPG or 2. Your step by step instruction and explanations are great
Thanks.
I love your videos. I was able to fix my bearings and brakes because of you. Thank you.
Great job!
I got a 1988 5.8L f250 and I found a 1993 conversion e250 van with a 5.8L. It had only 30.000 about miles and I got the injectors out of it for cheap they look like one hole originals but had 4 holes in the bottom. I do get better fuel mileage with them. Also. You may want to change the alternator to the 130 Amp and 175 mega fuse upgrade. I did and it made a world of difference. . No power loss at all. I got an alternator from a 95 mustang with a v6. You won't be sorry
Good info, I will be looking into that alternator upgrade. Thanks!
@@TheFixTech all good man. Also look up power steering upgrade. Find a 87-96 e150 -350 van with what engine you have . Make sure it's the same engine!!! Get the power steering bracket and pump. The pump should look like the black ones on a chevy. Ford did use them. No more steering whine. And better steering. Get the pressure hose too. You will have to modify end that goes into gear box but that's simple. Look up power steering upgrade. There are a few videos about it here. Also look into ignition module relocation for the 87-91 trucks and cars. It's easy. And I've had the same ignition module on my truck for about 6 years. Trust me. These upgrades help out more than you know
@@awh5773 I am hesitant on the power steering upgrade (Saginaw pump) as I heard it gives an easier steering feel, I personally like the firmness of my steering, but do hate the whine. Am still trying to figure out how to rid the whine while keeping the stock feel…
@@TheFixTech I tried about everything. But these low pressure pumps just keep getting rebuilt. But could not get rid of that noise. Its like finger nails on a chalkboard to me. I did the upgrade on my truck . It has stock feel. And wheels turn more easily sitting still. And no noise. Also the bolts for the a/c pump and bracket to block are the same. To me its better. Anyways keep the old ones running .
Best video on how to take off the plenum and change injectors on UA-cam. There’s not even a close second. Nice work.
Great Video! I acquired a 1989 F250 4x4 truck in an old Ford dealership building (built in 1929) I bought in a small West Texas town. The truck was running when parked 23 years ago. It has 40,000 original miles. It has the 5.8 engine - the exact same as everything in your video. The registration sticker on the windshield is from the year 2000. The key was still in the ignition. I replaced all the tires, new battery, both gas tanks and everything that could be replaced from the tanks to the engine (fuel pump, filter, etc.). Replaced the fuel tank selector valve (on the rail), and the pressure regulator. Now that I've replaced all the fuel system I have plenty of fuel and pressure in the fuel rail, but the truck wont start. It will run on starter fluid, but won't start on its own. It seems to want to start - it seems to fire one cylinder or two - but won't kick over and run. I've never had to deal with a fuel injected engine before. Do you think that a truck sitting for 23 years could use new injectors, or from my description do you think it might be some other issue? I appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks
Since it starts with starter fluid then it sounds like a fuel issue and not electrical. With that said anything is possible so double check your spark plug wires and firing order, the 5.8 is different than the 5.0, check timing as well. The distributor pickup coil is known to fault and so is the ignition module. Check the coil for spark and check for spark at the plugs. Check the fuel pump relay and ecm relay (they are next to each other and should be replaced in pairs). Check the tps and iac sensor (both located on the throttle body) for 5v supply from ecm, if no 5v supply then either bad ecm, relay, or wiring. Also check for compression.
Check ur map sensor unplug it and see if it starts had that happen to me and turned out to be the map sensor
Cover the intake runners as soon as you have the upper plenum off! Great video tho, I have a '90 Bronco with a 351, I'm going to try this.
Yes, that’s a good idea. This will wake up your Bronco.
Saw this EV 6 Injector Upgrade on JunkYard Doggs for a 5.0 Mustang with Speed Density. It didn't bother the Computer and he said it gets better mpg's and run better. You can use a 9volt battery if you get used ones to check the injectors and spray them clean, but that's too much work to mess with used,lol.
Yeah I would never go through that to put used injectors in lol
That jerk bolt is easily accessed once u get that throttle boddy off,u can reach right up in there with an allen head...lots of space
Good pointer
Did the swap and the truck runs incredibly well. Thank you
I’m doing mine as soon as the weather clears 😎
I don't own a Ford, but just like your work and video.
As someone who actually watched your video and is in the middle of attempting this I will say you need to not make mistakes. I was removing the plenum and had a bolt fall into the intake manifold. My dad said absolutely no one would make a video and not say to plug the air manifold up. My mistake is costing me a world of trouble and something that could have been avoided.
Well youd think that would be common sense….. i do agree with your father though anytime youre exposing intake manifolds or intake you should stuff a rag in there to prevent stuff from getting inside. A little trick to remember is right after you take your plenum off immediately put clean rags in the holes clean the gasket surface then blow it off with an air compressor pull the rags out then put blue painters tape over the intake manifold holes it prevents anything from getting inside plus when youre done all you have to do is pull the tape off install your gasket and plenum and run it…..👍🏻
@@Akdave2020 its definitely my fault but I have no experience doing this and he never mentioned to do it in the video.
@@Akdave2020 Don't forget to remove the rags!!! Been there; done that.
Oops, you should have known. Your dad did. It's on you dude, no one else.
@@colt-ss3lw Gross.
Dude I just did this when I was replacing my heads on my 1989 Bronco XLT 5.8 EFI
Which heads did you end up using?
I always tape up the intake holes so I don’t drop anything down the holes. Never fails if I leave them open something’s going down there.
That’s very good advice, I normally do that too and I should have mentioned this in the video.
i got 12-hole bosch gen iii style on my f250 5.8 great vidz
I'm sure there's other benefits to that comes along with that extra one or more gallon MPG, I'm sure that would help also clean the upper intakes with less deposit and probably a little bit better throttle response and a smoother engine might just have to give a go on my 94 5.0 this upgrade
Well done...wish I could find a video as good as this on the 4.9L
I believe the 4.9 may be easier, the intake plenum may not have to be removed.
What injectors are you using for the 4.9?
Absolutely love your Bronco videos.
I'm learning so much.
Thanks!
Very nice! Subscribed & binge watching.
I've been driving a 1985 Bronco for over 30 years. The wiring is tired. Plastic bits under the hood are all brittle & electronics are showing signs of old age just like me.
I see a big can of worms ahead & am VERY tempted to convert to a carburetor. I have a pile of intake manifolds & carbs here. Might even have a distributor.
The 85 has always been a pain to buy parts for , being a mid year change over to efi.
Parts counter guy's can't cope.
I completely understand, going through a similar issue in my Firebird. Painless wiring does offer an engine harness for the 86 and up 5.0 but it is for the mustang so will need some modifications. You may be able to snag a used engine harness and ecm off a newer model off eBay, just be sure the transmission matches. You could also make your own harness (purchase wires and connectors, very time consuming) If all else fails, carb would be the way to go.
I’m amazed how clean your engine bay is! I’m curious how you got it that clean?
Carefully using a pressure washer.
can you show us how ?
Good work. Need to do this with my 90 f150. You wouldn’t know where I can source those OG vacuum lines. Yours are crispy clean!
Thank you, as far as the pre bent colorful plastic vacuum lines go, they will either be a dealer item (discontinued) or a salvage yard/eBay. You can get new hard plastic line from local auto parts store but they will be black. You may find different colors online.
A little more info b4 i do mine what the plenum bolt sizes other than the torx
5/16 standard for the remaining bolts. Be sure to keep them organized as some are different lengths.
I would install the blue 24lb injectors in that 351 engine😉
was wondering about that, all these people may just be running lean now with those 302 injectors lol
I have a 1991 F250 and when you look at the two injectors side by side the bottom tips are way different and FYI both injectors have 4 holes....
A real upgrade is going to 6 or 8 hole injectors that require adapter plugs but will also need to remove and modify your intake manifold unless you can find some Bosch EV14 19lb 8 hole ..
What I did to the plastic end caps that snuggly fit inside the perfectly contoured aluminum intake manifold thats designed for the original design is took a countersink bit and opened up the plastic cap tip holes a lil and on a V pattern which exposes the 4 holes and gives them the same spray pattern as those so-called upgrades before theyre installed.
What happens is that when the so-called upgrade injectors are installed the upgrades sit above the spot those rounded/tapered plastic tips fit into which actually tapers down and when the so-called upgrades sprays fuel into the engine the fuel spray hits the intake manifold where the plastic tip fits into and tapers down......
When I was looking at a datalog after installing those so-called upgrades I noticed that my engine was doing something it hadnt done before and that was pull over 7% fuel out of the short fuel trims and 11% from the longterm fueltrims so I bought the right injectors and using an old intake manifold and fuel rail plus a fuelpump and an fuel injector checker tool made my own flow chamber and noticed where the gasoline was hitting the 3/8" thick chunk of tapered down aluminum redirecting the spray like a diesel injector for the upgrade injectors so I put those so-called upgrade injectors back in the box and stuck them on the shelf because by using a very tiny countersinking bit opened up the ends of the plastic injector tips on the original style which gave an improved spray pattern.
After installing the right style injectors with wider v shaped conical tip modifications yielded in my engine only needing a very small amount of fuel on the Short trim and zero on the long trim.......
Then after I was finished I got to thinking and decided to take my old bridgeport mill and recess 4 of the the old intake injector holes by dropping them down 3/16" and opening up the thru hole 1/16" and left the other 4 injector holes untouched..
I also had mill off 1/8" off the tops of where the injectors plugged into to compensate in order to get the 4 upgrade injector bodies to drop down 3/16" lower without the injector body causing issues with it going that deep.
After I got the injector height and fitment sorted I flared out the bottom of the holes on the opposite side of the intake to fit and flow the upgraded injectors then did another spray pattern test between the upgrades and the OEM injectors I modified the endcaps on and alls Ill say is theres no difference in the way the fuel is delivered between the two now but the mods for the so-called upgrades is alot more involved to get the same results................
I also had to slot the fuelrail bolt holes 3/16" higher to get the upgraded injectors to fit tightly too..
Very informative and helpful video! Thank you for sharing! 👍🏻
Sorry, I see you already answered this question and I am a go. Thanks.
Excellent video! I plan on doing this mod to my 1995 5.0 hoping for the same or better results! Thanks
Me too
Hey man did you end up doing it to the 5.0?
Did this on jeeps so I'm trying this one too. Good video.
Did this mod on my 96 F-150 5.0 and now it’s running rich being at -23% on my long term fuel trim but got a lot of higher rpm power. Going to add a throttle body spacer to see if it helps lean it out a bit
We’re you able to find a new set of Bosch injectors, or reman from a reputable seller? You may have a leaking injector, check fuel pressure with engine running with and without pressure regulator vacuum.
@@TheFixTechThey were Bosch remanufactured but I ended up getting the stock size in Bosch and it seemed to fix my problem. I had a new regulator and I changed it just in case but it still didn’t fix my problem. I possibly have a different problem that was causing me to have issues
Did you get your fuel trims in line? I plan on doing this project but concerned Bout fuel trims. I have a 96 f150 5.8, thanks
You just make it look so easy😂😂 good job thanks for sharing 👍👍
Stumbled upon this video, its great! Now im going to order the injectors and the pulleys (idea from comments) my 1995 f150 4x4 RCSB needs anything to gain some MPG
This and an overall tune up will help the mpgs, check the timing as well.
Great video. At 5:23 when you said be careful with the brittle vacuum lines..I broke off the white part of the connection that's attached to the block. Do you know the part and where to get it?
Very well put together video sir. Good explanations, good camera shots, good video pace, coherent sound. A+
I might see about getting some of those injectors to see if I can at least get my F150 running a little smoother. I'm sure all my intake gaskets are petrified and leaking vacuum.
It helped a lot on both my trucks, smoother idle and better throttle response, especially noticeable on inclines.
@@TheFixTech good to know. Sometimes mine feels a little sluggish on inclines and my mpg is a little below average right now.
@@TheFixTech is there a particular size or name for that fuel disconnect tool? I've never had to deal with those before.
I believe the size is either 5/8 or 1/2. They are usually sold as a set of multiple sizes and can be found at local auto parts stores. I prefer the plastic ones shown in the video vs the metal tool. Personal preference
Great video, just picked up a 94 F-150 with the 5.8 as little project. Couple tips though. I like to cut out a piece of card board to cover the intake and poke holes through it where the mounting bolts go to hold in place. afterwards, I use some sort of compressed air and quick dry cleaner before removing the inejctors to keep any contamintion from getting inside the engine when removed. This is usually because underneath there there's plenty of grease and oil that traps dirt, and I worry about the internals. Probably overkill but I prefer to play on the safe side. Will definetly be trying this out here soon.
Which injectors did you go with? the ebay or amazon ones? Thanks again, super informative video and well put together
I wondered if there was any newer parts that would improve fuel economy and performance, may do this to my 95 F150 5.8. I've always hated the intake on these trucks, it's just bizarre but oh well lol
Thanks for the video
Another mpg upgrade I haven’t talked about (one of the first things I did to this truck, but didn’t film) is upgrading to an electric fan combo, can be pricy but will get about .5 mpg and unlock more power from the engine.
Wow, I just got to tell you, what an excellent video you made. You made that look so simple. I have an 87 f150 5.0 I would love to do this upgrade. Right now my truck ain't running. I got spark, when I spay starting fluid into intake it starts but stalls. I here my fuel pumps kick on when I turn the key, for either tank. I pressed on schrader valve and nothing came out. My gas filter is clear blew through it. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. It started up three times and then died. All it does is crank. Not sure where to go from here.
great video, I am looking to buy a 95 Bronco and it has a huge upward spraying fuel leak. looks to be coming from the right rear of the motor my guess is the fuel rail is this a common issue?
Thanks Man, for taking the time to do this video and explain everything.
Thank you, my friend. This was unbelievably helpful.
I have a 1991 Ford Bronco I need to do all that you make it look to easy brother, very good video!
Damn I have to say thank you for that video you made it very simple and easy wow I wish everybody made it that easy thanks again I appreciate it.
BUEN TRABAJO COMPAÑERO MUY BUEN VÍDEO Y TIENE BUEN MOTOR 5.8 ES ORIGINAL ESE MOTOR ? QUE NUMERO DE CORREA USA, YO QUITE EL SMOG Y COLOQUE UNA CORREA MAS PEQUEÑA, SALUDOS DESDE VENEZUELA
Yes, engine is original. Please don’t use a smaller belt as pulley damage can occur. Instead use smog pump delete pulley in the place of the original pump, use original size belt.
GREAT VID. I am About to take my motor out of my 95 Bronco and rebuild the entire drive train.
Run some masking tape across the lower intake keeps things from going bad.
Yes, I should have mentioned that.
Great video. Thanks for the walk thru. I'm about to do this on my '89 Bronco.
You won’t be disappointed, change/replace any gaskets on the way. That helps a lot.
It looked like a tab on the injector plug was broken. On my Mustang I installed the squeeze release plugs from a Crown vic so they don't wiggle loose. A safety pin to release one wire at a time is all it took.
Great video! Had a problem with one of those plenum bolts. Any idea where i can find a replacement bolt? I cant seem to locate it anywhere... any help is greatly appreciated.
question on installing the new injectors onto the fuel rail. my truck is the 87 f150 with the 5.0L. the injectors are ford OEM ones. Look 95% identical to what came out. the old ones were pretty difficult to remove from the rail. I put a bit of oil on the o-ring on each injector. they don't see to making that snap or click that your video is showing. what should I do here to verify that they are indeed locked in place? just a key on check with the rail back on the truck and fuel lines hooked up?
I noticed that the mounting piece that the 4 bolts secure the rail the intake is notched...this allows some movement up/down for the rail. I had to loosen the 4 bolts and push the rail down at each corner to get them fully seated. then secured the 4 bolts.
update: got them installed. wating on o-rings for the source and return lines. nothing locally available. the return ones were pretty groty. could have probably re-used the source line ones but better safe than sorry. your video was spot on in doing the job. btw, I took my valve covers off, sanded and painted them at the same time. kudos for your work documenting this job.
I know I’m a little late to the party but do you have to do any tuning or anything when changing these out? Does it mess up anything and run different if you don’t?
Don’t need a tune, runs smooth after install. I am located in California and it passed smog recently better than it ever did.
@@TheFixTech Awesome! Thanks for the response and the well informed video! I wasn’t sure if it would require it or not. Would you happen to know about adding shorty headers? Think it would need to be tuned afterwards?
Thank you for this excellent mechanical & video documentary.
I did this with My 302 and 351 getting ready fire up My 351 was told in forums instead of 12 MPG should get 18+ was thinking COLD intake with the original box those long hoses look like they heat up a little bit
I think 18 mpg is tough to get, maybe with a manual transmission and highway tires, and driving carefully. I can vouch that this upgrad improved my mpg by 1-2, depending on my driving.
Any improvement on seat of the pants dyno?
Yes, much smoother idle, throttle response, and a slight bump in mpg. Plus helps with cleaner emissions. The old original injectors were dirty and worn/leaky
Is there other upgrades you would recommend? Where do you find reliable info like these upgrades. Thanx for the video
Yes, tire size and psi make a huge difference. Use the correct tire size and 35-40 psi. Is you have 92-96, make sure your speedometer (Psom) is set correctly (in calibration of the original tire size) as people do mess with them. Check speed sensors and TPS sensors makes sure they are in range, these will help with shift points and throttle response. Also coolant temp sensor.
Even though the price tag my go up a few dollars to upgrade the fuel injectors but if it's to actually help improve and give a little bit more extra gas mileage as well as burn off extra gas that's a win-win for me I have a 94 Ford XLT F-150 she has a 302 or better known as a 5.0 and she's only got 136,000 mi on the odometer
I have the same truck with a 5 speed and 132,000 miles. Original paint and shines like crazy. I am always getting comments
How is going. Great video. Would part #F4SE-A1B work?
F4SE-A1B
Yes, those will work great.
hombre probaste los F4SE in your ford? que resultados obtuviste en cuanto a potencia y consumo de combustible?
Great video! I would maybe cover the intake holes to prevent dirt or other things from falling in.
Glad I found your channel.
will those fuel injector also work for my 1990 ford f150 5.0 v8 truck that i have
Yes they will.
Thanks fotr the video. I went ahead and did this upgrade on my 1995 F-150 5.8 and when I fired up my engine the idle was super high (900 RPMs or so) and waverning. I'm gonna go back and put the old injectors in. Funny enough, the original injectors had 4 holes already so I don't think I"m gaining much by switiching to these newer ones.
Anyways, is there anything I should look out for when doing the swap back to the originals based on the high idle? Thanks for the help!
High rpm may be a vacuum leak or intake gasket/throttle body leak. If you choose to return original injectors, have them cleaned and flow tested. Some auto parts store and machine shops offer this service. Truck will run and preform better.
Will the same injectors work on 300 4.9 liter?
Yes they will.
good time to replace valve covers, install intake spacer, and larger intake.
Do you recommend the same fuel pressure regulator if I were to swap it out? By the way, what are my options for replacing the fpr?
I would stick with motorcraft as they last. If you are looking into an aftermarket adjustable FPR, then BBK makes a nice one.
Amazing vid. I wonder if youll do a full smog delete video. That would be amazing.
Very well done instructional
Thank you
i have 96 f150 ijust wanted to know will this work on the 5.0 302?
Yes, this will work on the 4.9L, 5.0L, and 5.8L. Your truck may already have the 4 hole injectors but will still benefit from the newer style and from new clean injectors.
Is there a similar one for a upgrade on a 92 f150 5.0?
Yes, this upgrade will work on the 92 5.0 as well
@@TheFixTech will the plenum gasket provided in the bio be the same for a 5.0? or would it be a different size
That thing is clean.
Interested in doing this on my 1990 F-150, but it only has 54,000 mi. If I get into it I would also clean the throttle body.
This is a great video I’m gonna do this to my 1990 ford f150
You didn't have any problems with the tuning ? Being a speed density truck ( no maf )
No problems at all, just be sure to get good quality injectors. If you decide refurb, purchase from a reputable seller that flow tests and batches them. The good sellers will provide a printout.
@@TheFixTech where did you buy yours ?
What gas milage were you getting compared to changing out the fuel injectors ? Also great video
I was getting about 13 (highway) now about 14/15. I am 3,000 ft above sea level.
Any need to advance the timing after this upgrade. Great video. I was able to follow it step by step but after completion, I am running rich. I can smell the unburned fuel. Not a huge deal, I can advance the timing. Its currently at 10 degrees. I was just curious.
Shouldn’t run rich, no need to advance timing. Check your fuel pressure regulator, and all vacuum hoses. Did you purchased verified refurb or new units from reputable seller? You could have a possible leaking injector. Also check all ignition components, wires, plugs, cap, coil, etc. Also check for any electrical connectors not fully plugged in (I had a problem with that and it resulted with a check engine light) it was the purge solenoid controller located next to the ignition coil.
If you replaced the same 0280155715 they are actually 24lb injectors. Advance timing will work a bit but Ford has California and federal ecms that make a difference.
@@frankbalvaneda3633 will these not work for California???
Nice video and nice bronco
Is it all the same as stock. Still passes smoke and runs identical as stock ones?
Honestly I had to replace my head on my 93 f150 with the 5.0 and this video helped me put it back together I thank you
Great video. Would thos Explorer injectors be compatible with the 4.9L i6 engines?
Yes, same injectors.
also bro how you wired the negative ground wire like your, im been trying to figure it out on my truck
The ground from the battery on these trucks have 2 cables coming from the terminal. The thicker one grounds to the frame, the thinner grounds to the core support. You can purchase this specific terminal/cable from local parts store.
So I've heard of putting 302 injectors onto a 300, and I therefore assume these would install cleanly into my '91 300 truck? Right?
Yes that is correct, make sure to use the newer 4 hole style and purchase them from a reputable source, if they are refurbished make sure they are flow matched. The 300 engine is bulletproof by the way.
Are you still happy with these injectors? And did you consider having your original injectors cleaned instead of buying new? I have a 96 Bronco and am about to do replace or have mine cleaned. could you let me know your thoughts. Thanks
The 96 has good injectors, you can have them professionally cleaned and flow matched if cost is reasonable I would stick with those. Otherwise I do recommend the 97/98 explorer V8 Bosch injectors, I am very happy with the results I’ve gotten.
Think i may try this,, took my 94 F150 out of storage, replaced all electronics, it ran fine for 3 days, now barely starts and reeks of gas,,, no longer even driveable.
The injectors will definitely clog if the gas in the tank was sitting for awhile. Be sure to replaced the fuel filter first. Also check/replace the iac valve.
@@TheFixTech we drained the tank and put fresh gas in, it started and ran fine. 3 days later it started running rough and is now DOA. Took old fuel filter out, some crap came out of it and some water. Wondering if l should replace tank/pump, filter and install new injectors.
@@me109g4 Check for fuel pressure at the rails, prime the ignition a couple times, pressure should build up, if not then bad fuel pump. Fuel pump and ecm relays are also suspect.
@@TheFixTech I checked the pump pressure when we got it out initially. Most electronics were either replaced or sent out and rebuilt pump seems to power up and run. Hate to put new injectors in and clog them up to.
@@me109g4 I would check the pressure again with a gauge and while cranking. A bad fuel pump could sound good but have low pressure. If you smell a fuel odor check for spark at the plugs, could be a bad ignition coil, module, and or distributor. What year is your truck? Have you tried checking for any trouble codes? Clogged injectors would not cause a no start issue, and fuel odor.
Your engine bay looks super clean, did you replace all of the AC lines, wires and vacuum lines, if so where did you get them from. I am working on an 87 F150 5.8 and am struggling to find what I need.
Four seasons for the a/c stuff if not available from Ford. The rest is best to get from used trucks from salvage yards or eBay in good useable condition.
8 months ago I got everything for A/C except for the high pressure metal line from Rock.
Going to do this swap and went to ford. According to the parts dept They are obsolete. They wanted a vin number and I don’t have one. Do you have a source where I can get these injectors. My shop on Monday will do the work
I just ordered a complete set of 8 injectors for my f150 92 model. It dose come with 4 holes but it's still the fat injectors is there a difference between the thin ones and the fat ones.
The thin ones are a newer style (Bosch 3) and are considered a bit more reliable. As long as your new injectors are 4 hole the fuel will atomize better than the originals. Also new injectors in general are always good
Thanks I appreciate your response and keep up the good videos.
you been doin quite a bit to this Broncoooo. have you posted a walkaround and summary of your ride?!
That’s something I have been wanting to do. Soon.
Can’t wait
Can I do this upgrade on a stock 302 without goofing around with the computer? I have a 1994 f150
Yes, this works well on all 1987-1996 ford trucks. This will increase atomization of the fuel for better power and mpg. No computer calibration needed.
@@TheFixTech thanks for the quick answer and informative video 👍
Will this work on a 1995 Ford F-150 5.0 engine? Or you have any information on what injectors can work on the 5.0
Yes these will work with the 5.0