Mondeo rescue part 5 - New wheels arrive, all serviced but can it run?
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- Опубліковано 16 гру 2022
- The Mondeo is back after the heavy snow, and keeps getting better! We have new wheels and tyres thanks to a viewer and now its all serviced...but can the fuel pump work....?
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Such a great series. Petition for this to be done again:
I agree and I sign your petition
Yes he needs to get a MK 1 Mègane next a Clasdic preferably and bring it back to life. That I would love to see.
I sign your petition and fully agree with you 👍🙂👍
I too sign your petition, a great adventure
Plus 1👍
You need to eliminate which side of the power source is the problem. Run one wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the negative input of the pump. If it now works you have a bad earth. If that makes no difference, then remove the wire, then add a single wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive connection of the pump. If it now works you have a positive feed fault in the wiring loom.
This is the way to go.
This idea really floats my boat.
I’ve been hooked on this series, 90s cars are so underrated,
Thanks for the great content, 😁
90's cars are nice but 2000 brought much safer cars.
@@chrishart8548 mondeos are a very safe car.they are a big step forward from the likes of cortina and sierra with much more advanced safety features.cars from thr 80s and 90s are by far the best cars ever made.plenty of safety kit,lots of toys but no ridiculously over complicated rubbish that they put into todays cars.much better styling to.todays cars are just different sized characterless square boxes that arnt even that space efficient.really enjoying this series on a great car mat.just a shame its not a ghia x.
@chris jones based on cost alone a mondeo has always been safer than the equivalent volvo. As for the same price the volvo has to be a generation or even 2 generations older to be the equivalent price. In 2005 I could get a mk3 mondeo for less than a 1999 T reg volvo V70 for reference the volvo was £10k and a tdi
@@ivanfernyhough3851 friend of mine always had brand new company cars I remember being 17 and him picking me up in a R reg 2 litre one of these with pirelli p6000 tyres. Handled like it was on rails and seemed very comfortable at the time. It wasn't a ghia but by the mk2 they had lots of kit anyway. Remote locking electric windows +mirrors air con etc.
Try running a ‘fly lead’ (long wire) from the negative on the car battery (not the one in the back) to the negative at the fuel pump, see if it starts….. if yes, it’s a bad earth. If no joy try the same principle with the live, from car battery to positive side of the fuel pump and hopefully it’ll pinpoint which wire is the issue.
I’ve had a similar problem before …. Reads power at the equipment but is unable to take the wattage/load when needed.
You beat me with this comment by a minute.
1st logical fault finding step in this instance 👍
I’m mostly on UA-cam for superbikes, I cannot believe how invested I’ve become in a Ford Mondeo!
Great series Sir.
These mondeo series of videos have been my highlight of the year on this channel 👌👌👌
If you suspect a bad earth Matt to the pump, simply clean up a part of the body and connect another earth wire to see if it'll fix your problem
legit, thats what ive been thinking this whole video. if its a bad ground, just run a ground to the metal back there, and if the pump runs, make the wire permanent
Also the relay even thou it clicks doesnt mean it's having a good contact
I'm having a similar problem and Ive just read on a forum that the fuel pump earth is on the same part of the loom as the rear light. So worth a look!
You know essentially what you need is the factory wiring diagram which shows you WHERE the fuel pump supply goes through the wiring loom from the fuse box to the pump. It probably goes through a couple connectors. Either rodents have chewed it somewhere or there is some corrosion in one of the connectors or a break in one of the wires. It's a bit of a pig of a problem to identify.
I would probably check that you can light the test light where the fuel pump relay derives its supply on fuse box.
Really loving the Mondeo mate. I love these cars. My dad had an M-reg estate.
This is a great video series, Matt.
Do you think a rodent might have semi chewed through one of the wires to the fuel pump?
That's what I was thinking.
I'm inclined to say no. If it was a live wire then I'd expect it would short, blow fuses and cause all sorts of problems. If it was earth then perhaps but I'd expect symptoms would be that it initially work but then fail quickly when the remaining strands of wire overheat and ultimately fail. Given the face that the fuel pump was seized, I'm leaning more toward the wiring having run hotter while the fuel pump was nearing the end of its life which then allowed oxidation and/or corrosion to set in at the earth connection.
@@darthvirago Me too. Rodents can wreak havoc on car wiring
Exactly what I was thinking
Running a single wire from the relay to the pump shouldn’t be too hard. If it doesn’t work after that it’s an earthing problem. If it does, we’ll, job done I guess. Good luck Mat!
Mondeo living every part
For future reference, wipe some oil around that filter seal before installing, putting it up dry will make it pretty soon seize to the block and make it an absolute pig to get off in the future. oh and the looms from front to rear will come through the inside of the car either down one side or the other or straight up the middle under the carpets, so you shouldnt need to be slithering around under the car looking for them, but before you go rushing off chasing replacement looms run a wire from the pump live feed contact on the relay directly to the pump, that will decide whether dodgy wiring is responsible and put your jumper battery directly onto the cars battery to test the circuits continuity instead of directly on the pump. and at the end of the video I think amps is the word you were looking for🙂.
I would be wanting to look at all the wiring to check for mouse chewed bits. If you have any open circuit wires you could equally have ones ready to short circuit and even start a fire.
It has a 12v reading so I suspect it's got a circuit but running high resistance. I'm wagering a dicky earth connector that's corroded to all hell. Wire wheel and a bit of bulldog would sort it, or wire it to another earthing point if the wire is hard to get to.
My Mk2 Mondeo had the same problem with the doors freezing open. I used a bungee cord to hold them closed until she had got hot enough. Could be a bit dodgy driving through Canterbury this time of year with the door gently opening and closing, by the time I got to Sturry crossing she'd be hot enough to close properly. Her other trick was to unwind the hub nuts periodically. When this happened one of the prop shafts would slide out and she'd loose drive. A case of wind the nut back on, correct the torque (elbow measure) peene the nut and continue. I loved that car.... Love this one, pity it's got a wobbly stick and not an auto..... Nice one to save Matt, enjoying this a lot.
sounds like 'character'!
Big shout out to FD subscribers who have helped you out Matt. Top people 👍
They really are the best!
This Mondeo rescue series brought me to your channel. Great videos by the way.
Fantastic video Matt… i have been looking forward to every episode featuring the Mondeo.
Kudos to the viewers who donated the wheels and the hub caps as that’s really kind of them. Looking forward to the next episode as Mondeos where all very much part of all of peoples lives 20 years ago. Thanks!!
Check the wiring loom continuity between the main fusebox connection and fuel pump, check for rodent damage too, you can always fit a temporary earth to the pump to rule out anything, check ECU connections and lastly, even though relays click the actual contacts within the relays can be corroded, back on my Citroen electrical fault finding courses we used to test relays with a 9v battery from toys, smoke detectors etc and operate the relay and check for resistance within the relays testing across the relevant terminals with the multi meter on ohms (refer to relay terminal layout for testing) and some relays allow removal of the plastic cover to gain access for cleaning the contacts with fine emery cloth 😊👍
Great series! I have one of these that has been in my family since new. The problem you are having with the central locking is typical for the Mk2 Mondeo, and is due to the progressive failure of the electrical switches in the door's locking mechanism (they corrode and stop making good contact). As it gets worse over time, the car will not respond to the key being turned, or even lock/unlock itself on its own. To solve this, you need to service/replace these switches. An alternative is to remove the central locking fuse and disable the system altogether, if you don't care about locking/unlocking each door individually. The fuse you need to remove is in the fusebox that's inside the car. I have done this to mine a few years ago and it's been fine ever since. Cheers and keep up the good work!
Great video, when you had the test bulb you should have put one side of it down to earth via bare metal and the other to the+12v wire, you would have known then whether it was a bad earth or high resistance on the loom.
Yes, or run an earth wire from a convenient screw on the chassis (or even the negative battery terminal) for testing purposes. If the headlight bulb lights up fine you know it's an earth issue, if it doesn't, the positive is broken somewhere.
Yes, spot on. You could even run a temporary negative back to the battery, but anywhere should prove if it’s a bad earth 👍👍
Mat, watching you freezing to bits on a cold frosty day fixing a knackered out old car has brought back many memeories.
Its jeered me up no end knowing that those days are in my distant past.
Thanks again for posting cant wait for the next episode
Great video. Electricity is very simple. It's all just magic pixies. I would try measuring the resistance of the wire next: from the output at the relay to the input to the fuel pump (with the battery disconnected). It should be basically nothing. Set your multimeter to Ω. You can also try measuring the voltage across the pump with someone else actually trying to start it. If it was 12V and drops right down when she starts it this also implies the pixies aren't getting down the wire easily (but turning into heat on the way). Once you're sure it is the wire you can then worry about how to dig it out of the loom.
-9,5C? I would dream of such high temperatures here... Lots of car stuff freeze solid. The frameless doors that are so popular (and increasingly so) are horrible to use where I am at. Terrible design for freezing temperatures.
Worst I have seen was -42C... Trying to start my old army truck was a multiple stage process of first heating the alchol fueled heater with a burner. Then starting the heater and heat engine block so the oil could flow. Then heating the glow plugs... etc. All the while looking out that my nose wouldnt literally get frostbite and fall off my face.. good times.
Anyway, I think you have done very well with this car. Cheers.
@furiousdriving - For the fuel pump, Ford typically mounts a push button crash sensor switch in the trunk/boot area of the cars.
In Ford's trucks and vans, they put the switch up front on the passenger side/driver's side foot well behind the kick panel left or right of where your feet sit when you're driving.
My suggestion is to find the plastic, two-wire switch in the boot/trunk and tap it lightly with a rubber screwdriver handle and see if the red button pops up. When the red button pops up, push it back down and make sure it stays locked. It should be held on with two 5.5mm or 7/32 S.A.E-headed bolts. There may be a shield bracket over the switch held on by two 8 mm-headed bolts.
Older cars that sit can get corrosion in the switch and stop working. I've got a few older Fords started by operating and cleaning the switch.
F.Y.I. - The fuel pump only gets power for two to five seconds with the key forward without the engine running, that way the pump doesn't run unnecessarily.
Hopefully, my comment in American English makes sense.
In the passenger footwell here
I've looked into the fuel pump wiring diagram, it goes like this:
(Battery+)-------(Relay K20)--------(Fuse 14)---------(Inertia Switch)---------(Pump)-------(Ground point 2)
Since voltmeter shows voltage at the pump but when its plugged in there is not enough current to run indicates a bad connection somewhere inline. Best approach to solving this would be load testing at each individual point using DIY test lamp with something like H7 bulb. But without it, its best first to check ground at the pump by splicing into black wire and connecting it to B- terminal or any good ground. My second guess would be bad contact at fuse, best to change it or clean contacts. Third step would be bypassing inertia switch.
Never get sick of watching the Mondeo. It’s one of the most appealing cars you’ve had on the channel somehow, I’d really struggle to let this one go. Not a big fan of steelies but they look fabulous in their new condition! The cold has been terrible here in Chester this week! It was -9 on Thursday when I went out first thing to work. Not as much snow as you have had but the ice and freezing temperatures are awful when you work outside. Anyway, great video Matt!
Loving this series, not a Ford guy by any means but love seeing cars brought back to life.
Anyway 2 things I'd do in your situation. First voltage check the ground wire on the fuel pump plug between the body of the car. If it's shorting out I'd assume you'd see a voltage.
Second I'd just cut the plug off and fit new crimp connectors on the individual wires. If that then works you know it was an issue with the plug (that's what I suspect it is). Then it's up to you if you leave it like that or repin a new plug on.
I can understand your needed fortitude in cold weather, Our weather ( Western Canada) will be overnight at minus 30 four days of next week. Supposed to warm slightly for the holidays. Wiring? If the relays are working, there's a short somewhere between the fuse box, and the pump. I look at it as stops on a rail line, Eventually, you find where the tracks are out. Stay warm, Hot Cocoa, & warm memories. Cheers.
BBBrrrrrr, you are brave Matt! Enjoying the Mondy content - it really has survived well bless it. Winning on the wheel front, they will make a great difference to the kerb appeal. Using your bulb you can connect one side to the plug live and other to the body - if lights=poor earth in plug. Otherwise use live from temp battery and the plug earth - if lights=poor live in plug. Using OHMS on your meter you can check the resistance of your plug earth to body of car for a high reading meaning high resistance which is bad. With an extension cable you can jump from fusebox relay to pump which will verify the original llive feed from fusebox to pump plug. My guess is rodents have chewed through it and it has corroded. Best of luck matey
I'm actually obsessed with this mondeo series! I wasn't a subscriber, never even heard of your channel and the first mondeo video popped up on suggested.....I binged the first 4 videos and haven't stopped checking back for part 5. Love your enthusiasm!
Welcome aboard! Thanks for watching!
Crown Victoria alongside Smart Car comedy gold 😂
Ok, so the relay clicks, you never checked the relay socket with a bulb not a meter.
You get 12 volts at the fuel pump connector but there is no current, it won't light the bulb.
Also at the fuel pump connector you really need to find out if the positive or the negative is at fault.
Try the bulb between the positive at the connector and car body if it lights the pump connector has a bad earth.
Then try the negative side of the pump connector through the headlight bulb but using a positive feed from the cars battery so checking the earth on the pump plug.
Then you should know what's missing.
Looking very tidy with the new wheels and tyres. It may be worth checking that the relay contacts are closing properly by powering up the fuel pump relay coil with it removed from the car and doing a continuity test on the other two relay connections with your multi meter. Also check the loom wiring using continuity on your multimeter and a separate piece of known good wire to create a loop of wire.
It has been said before, but I'm restating to make sure it's seen - to test if there is an earth problem, temporarily run a wire directly from the battery earth to the negative on the pump, this will totally bypass the loom and if it works, you know it's a problem in the car's wiring. You can then work your way back along the loom, looking for where the problem lies.
You can do the same with the positive feed, but make sure you put a fuse in the wire near the battery.
The power will be cut to the pump after a short while (I can't remember how long, but I think it's less than 30 seconds) if the engine is not running, and you will need to cycle the ignition off and on again. This is a safety feature to stop fuel from being pumped everywhere in the event of an accident.
Guess the reason the oil change went so well and clean is the cold weather and increased viscosity. Love watching this series, just don't know how Mrs Furious puts up with so many old cars outside the house in varied states of repair! 😅
Ar memories lol.
To me it sounds like the old fella who previously owned the car who passed away probably fitted a fuel on and off switch either hidden somewhere or on a button or switch thats unused but used on the Ghia model,
Hence the other non Ford car alarm system that was installed,
I've done that to many cars I've owned,
Also when a car has been left standing for a handful of years especially outside
I would check all the relays as they either get insects and cobwebs and moisture inside them,
The amount of times I've spent days trying to find out why something is not working and it turns out to be the obvious thing a bloody Relay,
Once again great videos.
The function of the relay is to use a low current to activate an electromagnet to actuate a switch within the relay to transmit a heavier current. Although the relay is "clicking" that only tells you that the electromagnet is moving the switch gear. The resistance of the switch within the relay can still be enormous.
To use a hydraulic analogy, imagine a length of hose pipe with a trigger spray nozzle on one end. The other connected to a tap. Just before the trigger nozzle you have a pressure gauge teed in and it reads 40 psi but when you pull the trigger a damp trickle runs out, no power in the jet at all and the pressure drops to zero. So you check the tap is fully open and try again, same result despite the guage reading being restored,showing 40psi
So you pull the pipe off the tap and give it a bang on the wall and a couple of dead snails and a blob of moss fall out.
Try again, hey presto, squirts like a good one. Whats happened is that by removing the blockage (resistance) you've restored flow(current). All along there was a tiny pinhole diameter pathway between the snails and the moss which was allowing the water pressure (voltage) through. The pressure builds up quickly with the flow from the tap connected but collapses to a damp trickle when you pull the trigger.
1)Voltage = Current x Resistance and 2)Power = Volts x Current
So, looking at 1) if your resistance is huge and you are stuck with constant voltage ( like you are) the current drops accordingly.
Then looking at 2) although your voltage is good your current is tiny (because it's been lost getting past the resistance).
Because your current is tiny, your power (Volts x Current) is also tiny and your pump won't run.
Get a new relay.
If working underneath a car on snow, take a big dustbin bag, cut holes for your head and arms, and you'll easily slide underneath the car while not getting wet or dirty your clothes. Once finnished, just rip it from your body, you can always prepare a new one! ;)
Once you've got your headlight bulb not working from the pump feed, try that again with the headlight bulb connected to a good earth on one side (a bit of wire to the body somewhere) and the fuel pump feed on the other side.
If it lights you know the earth at the back is the problem, if it doesn't you know it's the feed wire that's the problem.
I guess the loom must plug onto the back of the fusebox somehow? My first port of call would be to see if it's a bad connection there.
Also, as well as the bulb test, you could just use the multimeter to measure voltage whilst the pump is all plugged in. If there's a high resistance feed you'll get 12V when the pump isn't plugged in, as the feed is good enough to power a multimeter input. But once the pump is plugged in the voltage will drop right off if the feed is high resistance somewhere.
Good series. I can't remember if you've tried contact cleaner on the connection for the fuel pump. Something like a dremel can be really good if you can get a mini-wire brush on the thing for this type of problem. Making sure the connectors do link up probably isn't the reason you have an intermittent problem, but while you're dealing with the fuel pump, reducing the chances of something else arising might be worth considering. Also, brake discs having rust on them can be a fail (the thickness can't be below the manfacturers recommended thickness limit might be too but this might not be checked). Using a carbide cleaning disc looks ok to me - but you might find a thousand and one ways to do this. It's scoring into the disc that's the real problem - this may not be worth bothering with - after a few miles they'll be really shiny and rust free.
Glad the workshop manual was of use.
Very handy thanks!
Love the Mondeo. Totally under rated car.
Try monitoring the voltage for the output of the relay side when it's running, when it cuts out, is voltage still present? Could be a dodgy intermittent relay.
If it's Ok try lashing a cable rough arse to the back of the car temporarily and wire it in, see if the problem goes. If it does, like you've said - dodgy wire somewhere to the back.
Hey just a quick tip: go through a carwash with underside carriage cleaning before you go to mot. The people working will appreciate it and it will be cleaner 😁
Car wash? There aren't any of those in the UK anymore. We do now have hundreds of hand wash places staffed by immigrates on minimum wage but I don't think they do underbody washes.
all wires run behind down under the plastic trim below the door shuts, (down besides the seats),
and also down behind the same plastic trim where the bonnet latch is, there are connectors, theses connectors are of different colours plugs like blue/green etc, so basically instead of one log loom its spilt one up behind the left side of the dash where it comes into the car, then again down under the dash behind that said trim, so may not be that bad to trace,
i also think there's a small load if cables that run on the other side that im sure do the rear lights etc,
another brilliant vid,
I find working on cold wet ground is a bit more bearable if you lay a tarp down then a piece of carpet on top.
Keep up the good work mate!
Cheers Pat🇦🇺
Watching this has cheered me up at the end of a very trying day. Love this series.
I had a similar issue on the window motor. I measured 12 volts on the motor connector, the motor was working with external 12v supply, but not working with the 12 volts on the connector. I tested it with a light bulb and it did not light up as yours. It turned out there was build up on the window switch contact points. After i sanded the contact points, it started working again. The relays also have contact points inside, even though it clicks, doesnt mean it works. The relays next to it looks the same, switch them around and see if it fixes the problem.
What you've done so far is somewhat productive with the multimeter and bulb. You've established there's a circuit but it looks like it's running high resistance, rather than a totally open circuit. If it was me, my next step would be to eliminate whether you've got a live or earth fault. You can do this with a single wire. Run the wire direct from the battery to positive on the fuel pump connector (still connected to the fuel pump!). If that results in fuel pump activity, you've got a live problem. If nothing happens, you've probably got an earth problem.
Run that same wire between negative on the fuel pump connector and any known good ground (Negative on the battery will do if you've got the wire length). If that results in fuel pump activity (remember to make it prime during your tests!) then you've definitely got an earth fault.
I'd put money on an earth fault since they're usually connected to the body somewhere and that's exposed and easy to get full of crud or corrosion. The advantage to this is you can then find any ground anywhere nearby and link onto it instead of having to faff about with replacing bits of loom or worrying about where it's connecting too since the whole body is a common ground for every circuit. A crimped loop connector on a bit of black wire through just about any bolt will have you back up and running in no time.
If neither results in fuel pump activity then you're looking at a security or software fault with the factory immobiliser system aaaaand good luck with that.
Proved yet again that the word Mondeo is on trending in youtube!!!
Best car project on youtube !
Lovely Jubbly Matt, your dedication to your cars is literally breathtaking especially in this weather. Try not to make yourself ill for Christmas and everything else. If you put a live from the cars pump connection and source another earth, that'll show if it's the earth or the live matey.
Just come across this series & watched the lot!! Cracking cars the Mk1 & Mk2, time to start saving more of them!
On your random electrical fault I remember having a non running Mk2 in at the garage I worked in, it was a bad connection in the loom behind the battery & under the airbox, we pulled the air box out & gave the loom a good pull & wiggle & away she went & kept going!!! Got to be a bad connection somewhere, you will eventually find it!!! Look forward to seeing the end result!!!
Try tracing the wiring loom from the fuse box to the fuel pump and see if you to much resistance in the wiring loom which would be caused by corrosion. Or try measuring the resistance in the fuel pump relay by applying power to it and measuring the resistance.
Surely mondeos have become ever so slightly more collectable now with the news that they are no more. This series is very interesting, not least because its an attainable underrated car and it will do someone a good turn I'm sure
Rodents have liked snacked on the wiring loom. You need to do a continuity test from the relay connector to the pump. My guess is it'll be several kilohms, instead of close to zero.
The first check you need to do is link terminals 30 on the fuel pump relay and 87 and see if the pump runs.If it doesn't load test terminal 30 with a bulb, if that tests ok leave the link in and check power at the pump end.Using the battery negative as a ground for testing, this will check the live supply to pump.
Is it the earth or the power which is missing?
Use the headlight bulb test light to check, connect one end into the positive on the connector and the other end to a known good earth on the car body, if it works then you know you have good power from the battery to the fuse box and onto the connector.
Next connect the spare battery negative terminal to a known good earth on the car body and then one end of the test light to the earth wire in the connector and the other end to the battery positive, this will test the earth from the terminal to wherever it is connected to the body.
If they both work properly then its probably a bad connection at that connector onto the fuel pump. Good luck
Bravo for spannering outside in those conditions, my small fleet can do one until I can guarantee I could still feel my fingers afterwards
A quick mention of that filthy header tank for the cooling system. Take it off and put a bit of fairy liquid with water and fill it up with uncooked rice. Give it a good shake and it will come out like brand new. You might actually be able to read the level then!
Loving these videos. Props to you for laying under a car in ice.
You can determine whether the poor connection is on the power side or the earth side by using your test light between a different earth source (anything metal that's convenient) and the power on that plug, and likewise, from a different 12v source to the ground on the plug. that may narrow it down a bit. If the earth side isn't switched, you could probably just splice in a new connection point, for instance. If the problem is on the power side, you'll have to find it or run a new wire up to the front, i guess.
As most people are stating eliminate the faulty feed either run a temp negative direct from the "cars" battery and the plugs live and test if pump will run then swop with a fly lead positive from your cars battery to the pump and the original pump negative.then you will know which wire you need to trace back.you now have a manual look at the electric schematic drawings to trace the wires just incase it's a faulty oil sender switch like on the rovers that cut power to the fuel pump.or crank shaft sensor.your rover must be very simply too get running too
Dedication, that's the word that comes to mind. Loving the jazzy new rubber and glistening rims. That fuel pump situation is a heartbreaker, as you say so close and yet so far. Try to stay warm and be careful with the ice, glad to see you got the jack on solid ground, some people don't think, ignore that during a thaw a sheet ice can crack or shift, especially when there's a lot of weight on it.
great series on the mondeo thanks for sharing
Nice one Matt, a great video made in trying circumstances as it’s been very wintery this last week! The new wheels and tyres look fantastic and apart from the fuel pump issue it looks like it a well maintained and solid car under the earlier detritus. Can’t wait for the next installment.
Absolutely loving this series... MORE PLEASE!
Great Videos looking forward to seeing part 6 👍
Matt I think the best thing you can do regards the fuel pump is take the connector off and put a new one on... I think the connector is not making good contact... There's no need to over complicate it as its got power to the connector when you test it so its not making a good contact.
Brilliant series, one of your best! Everyone loves to see an old car revived and rescued from the scapyard 👍👍👏👏
loving the mondeo videos matt like many others, I've tried tacking a head gasket job on my 45 during this weather and gave up until the weather gets slightly less severe, I really applaud your efforts in this. What a lovely example :)
I said weeks ago that there is a difference between using a test light and measuring voltage. It's called Voltage Drop and it is caused by series resistance. In simplest terms it's ohms law in action.
Great to see this progressing so well. Looking forward to the MOT result next!
Electronics fault finding is a game of elimination.
1. try and run an earth wire from the fuel pump ground to the chassis. This will rule out bad earth at the fuel pump (though it runs from a separate battery so that's probably OK)
2. connect a bulb between the output of the fuel pump relay (just chuck the wire in the relay socket and press the relay in) and chassis. This will rule out a bad relay.
3 . if there is enough power at the relay to light a bulb and nothing at the fuel pump itself (and you are sure the earth is OK), it must be a bad cable from the fuel pump. Run a test wire from the relay all the way to the fuel pump and see if this works. If it does, you know what your next job will be ;-)
I've spent many evenings in a friend's workshop trying to figure out why my Matra Murena would die unexpectedly losing all electric power, had to run new cables all the way from the battery in front to the alternator in the rear, but at least I could work protected from the elements! (everyone in Nijmegen area in the Netherlands needing repairs to a French car, I can heartily recommend Dymow Bouwman!)
Minus 9! You southern softie lol. It is as -12 in Carlisle on Thursday morning as I drove north over the border into scotland.
Enjoying these Mondeo videos. I’ve been a subscriber every since the first Volvo video
Got two mk2 Mondeos ready for banger racing tomorrow on Sunday great video Matt
got any parts for sale?
Really enjoying following this - love Mondeos, and the Mk2 is now rare indeed. You are so close to completion. It will be a great car for someone - I hope it goes to a classic car enthusiast who will keep it good, and show it.
Boots Maketh the Mondeo.
Beautiful Wheels.
Ye I would say you have a broken wire and every now and then it just let's enough current across so the pump will start but very rare and not very reliable. What you need to do if you know which fuse is for the pump and can see the wires for it you need to do an insulation test on them and a resistance test. That will tell you which wire is broken. Then you can either pull out the old broken wire or just cut it off at both end. You could use it as a pull wire do to pull in your new wire even if it got your new wire half way along the car it would make your job easier. If you do it that way do you will need two people one to feed the wire in and one to pull it if you want any success with it. Good luck.
I’m in Worcestershire and we had that deluge of snow on Sunday morning. A week later it’s only just starting to disappear, partly down to nights of down to -11. I had to change my rear brake pads on Monday, but am very fortunate to have a double garage to work in. All credit to you, I’m not hardy enough these days to work outdoors in the winter.
Really cool the transformation of the Mondeo, keep up the awesome work.
Lovin' this Matt, so therapeutic to see a great project car like this come back to life. You gotta do another!
There is something about new tyres, everytime I buy a car I have to put a new set on. This series has been a very enjoyable watch 👍
Nothing like new tyre day!
Clean the front number plate !! Good video..👍
Great stuff, the wheels made some difference , best wishes and good luck with the fuel pump fault, I'm sure you'll get it. It's going to be a lovely car when done.
im loving these mondeo videos, keep them coming...
This got me subscribed. Love the catch fix release ideas
Hmm, the ring... (I'm opening myself up here for some potential shouts of 'you dangerous ****) I have a similar tyre on the rear of my Audi, which has been in this condition for a year or two but not failed an MOT. As I recall, what usually happens with tyres like this is that the bond for the tread is starting to weaken, and the tread could come away eventually, but likely gradually and over time. But re 'I don't know how this is still holding air', it's unlikely there are any noticeable defects in the interior. So it might not burst imminently. Please don't shoot me.
Great series of videos on the Mondeo Matt. On the fuel pump a quick check would be to piggyback an extra earth to the earth on the fuel pump but I would definitely sort the problem with the central locking system in the drivers door as this could control the immobiliser in the deadlock position as well as central locking.
Looking forward to seeing the next video, keep up the good work.
I have a mk3 Mondy and it's interesting to see how they didn't improve certain things over the Mk1/2 (same underlying platform but tweaked a bit) - the coolant drain plug and rear brake lines being a couple that spring immediately to mind, but at least the oil filter was in a better location on the Duratec petrol engines. Boot space, while great on the Mk1/2 is even bigger in the Mk3, truly cavernous.
Great series Matt, very much enjoying your progress on it.
Love watching these, they're so easy to relate to especially from the perspective of someone who owns 5 cars from which 1 works at the moment. One trick i have learned to help with doors being frozen, with them either not opening or not wanting to close properly, is to take a plastic bag that doesn't leak, fill it with hot water and then hold the bag against the lock mechanism, just make sure it doesn't leak, also some people might suggest putting heat to the key and then putting it in the lock but i wouldn't do that in fear of the key getting damaged.
You got it right when you said a mondeo is one of the best cars around. I have a 2011 estate with the 1,6 ecoboost. I bought it new and i still maintain it thouroughly to this day because i wouldn´t know what to trade it for that would be any better. It does everything i demand of it, the boot swallows everything from complete bikes to christmas trees and it´s a comfortable long haul cruiser when needed, and at the same time a peppy and agile driver for when you want to have some fun. I love my mondeo.
Great video, really enjoying this channel please keep them coming
Loving this series… regarding the fuel pump issue… given the rodent nesting, I’m thinking a chewed wire
100% genuine dedication! 😁👍
You're a braver man than I am to tackle the Mondeo in this sort of weather! The fuel pump connection issue is mostly going to require a wiring diagram and perseverance. Identify whether it's the power or ground feed that's bad (patch in some temporary connections and test), find intermediate connection points to narrow down the problem area, trace the wiring looking for _the green crusties._ That's how Ivan @ Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics and Eric @ South Main Auto are doing it. It's not really rocket science, more of a slog. Well, not having to work out in the cold and potentially having access to a lift would definitely help. The pros might also have an idea of typical neuralgic points.
I would temporarily put this project on hold until temperatures are more sane again - you guys may not be leaving the house unless absolutely necessary anyway, so there's much less opportunity for the Mondeo to be disturbing anyone right now. It's a neat project and all but not worth contracting death or worse over. (The Canadians in the audience may now be rather amused, but I assume temperatures like that are even more uncomfortable in the UK than here on the old continent.)
Up here in derbyshire (ilkeston) my outside temp gauge showed -9 on Thursday morning at 06:30, heavy frost but no snow yet.
Really enjoying the videos on the Mondeo. The wheels looks great aswell.
Well done for percivering in this deep freeze most definitely a lovely mondeo Well worth saving 😀
What a great series on the Mondeo, would love to see more. Happy Christmas Matt. 🎄🎅🏻👍
In this weather, you're a brave man is all I can say.
Loving this series. My folks had a mk1 2.0 Si on an L plate when they were new and loved it. I’ve had 2x mk3’s and 1x mk4, all up to 100k with petrol engines. Huge practicality,comfort and space. Good luck with getting that wiring debugged!