Hippo gets new front brakes, surprisingly difficult (no fire was involved)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 кві 2024
- After seeing how bad the rear brakes were on Hippo the Mk1 Freelander, I thought it would be a good idea to overhaul the fronts, so I fitted a OE quality Comline front brakes to the Freelander which you can find at your local motor factors. If you want to check out Comline, click the links below:
bit.ly/Comline-Facebook
bit.ly/Comline-Instagram
bit.ly/Comline-website
Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @furiousdriving
Proudly sponsored by Diamondbrite - Clean, Protect and care for your car - diamondbrite.co.uk and get 10% off your order with code FD10
Get a 15% discount on Auxito LED bulbs for your car with this link: www.auxito.com/discount/MATTR...
Check out my Amazon store for all the Draper tools used on the channel www.amazon.co.uk/shop/furious...
Theres a Merch store!! Head over to www.furiousdriving.co.uk to find the T shirts, hats, mugs, key rings, badges and more soon on there!
All the other Furious Driving, Rover, Alfa stickers, mugs, T shirts HERE - rdbl.co/3AhvDLL on Redbubble
Hit the Channel Member JOIN button and become a Furious Driver or help support the channel on Patreon here: / furiousdriving
Post me stuff for Junk in the Trunk post bag section!
Furious Driving
PO Box 477
AYLESFORD
ME6 9LE
Check out my new Photography channel 'Click Bait' - bit.ly/2Xek1Y1 - Авто та транспорт
If you want to check out Comline parts find them at your local motor factor, or click the links below:
bit.ly/Comline-Facebook
bit.ly/Comline-Instagram
bit.ly/Comline-website
WAIT JUST ONE MINUTE!! In your other videos the moment you spray on the 'amazing' Bulldog BDX the rusted bolts simply fall off in front of your eyes and you then go on to joyfully sing its praises??
Spraying any penetrating fluid on the HEAD of a bolt does absolutely sweet F.A. to aid its removal.
I do hope that Bulldog are paying you well 🤣🤣
Dude, I loved this video, this is exactly how all my DIY tasks go. The fact you retained your humility and sanity at the end was amazing. Well played.
Matt you’re a brave man that won’t give up! Job well done and you definitely earned a nice cake 🧁! Good luck with parts shopping! I think the whole freelander needs a bulldog soaking bath for easy maintenance in the near future ! 😂😂😂
I’ve heard less grunting and huffing in a David Attenborough film… 😮 Hat tip for dedication, I’d have given up and got the garage to do it!
Draper Impact Screwdriver Set (12 Piece) (22322) for the disc screw.
Irwin Bolt Grip Remover 5PC Base set 394001 for the rounded bolt heads.
Impact Screwdriver is an essential tool...
I thought Matt had such.
If you're lucky, on a lot of calipers you only need to remove one slide pin bolt. Remove the bolt, rotate the caliper then slide it off along with the pin & bolt.
Sometimes its the only way, plus it can be quick than doing both
Also i NEED "Fire Bad" on a shirt
I did all the brakes on my freelander as it’s now my daily-driver. Front got new pads, discs & callipers and the rear got drums & shoes and handbrake cables. Only issue I had was adjusting the rear brakes, lots of swearing and numerous cups of tea. Now got lower wishbones and bushes to do thanks to the roads in North Kent.
Its time that you invested in a impact screwdriver, Matt for those disc screws.
I have one, but as I mentioned in the video the bits are missing
Need to invest in a decent Impact Driver for those disc fixing screws. Would recommend a decent make as I've been through many of them and ended up buying a Snap On set which is used a lot!! 😃
If you're changing discs and pads I tend to push the piston back 1st, before you unbolt the caliper. just wedge a flat head screwdriver or small pry bar and gently lever it back. Damage doesn't matter cos both are being replaced, be gentle so your screwdriver doesn't bend
Yup, good advice 👍 tis what I've allways done, the old pads act as a sacrificial piston protector 😁
If you've taken the caliper out,slip the old pads in the caliper and use 2 ring scanners back to back between the pads to push the piston back.
Matt just so you know am standing down the Fire Brigade but ready to assist should things get out of hand or you need the BIG JAWS of LIFE 😁 would make very light work of those bolts 👌🏻.
Hi Matt, been using comline brakes for a couple of years now, been impressed with quality, paid a lot more for worse. Using them on a V70, mk2 xtrail and a mk3 mondeo. As mentioned by a few others, getting a set of the urwin nut removers is a great investment, has saved many hours and skinned knuckles.
Less than 5 thousand to go, 100k this year hopefully
The 5 minute jobs always seemed to catch me out back in the day some decades ago, a 'simple job of undoing a few screw, nuts and bolts and lifting something out of the way to get at something else didn't take anywhere close to 5 minutes. In reality said screw, nuts and bolts were invariably seized and either stripped the threads or sheared off or both. Screw extraction was more fun when an extractor may break in the bolt/stud. After eventually lifting said part away to get at that something else we would be presented with another bunch of things that didn't want to become undone and the cycle repeats. Rarely from my experience did a 5 minute job take less than the best part of a day. These days we have Bulldog and better tools but the script plays out the same. Many thanks for sharing.
That was painful Matt, even from here. As always, an 'A' for persistence. Good luck with the rears!
Matt, why didnt you push the piston back using a screwdriver against the old pads before disassembling anything else, its always the first thing I do as it proves (or otherwise) that the piston(s) and sliders are free to move.
Cars from the early 2000s seem to last and still look good!
If i were working on a 21 year old freelander that had lived in a rust belt i would be surprised if most things did un do. Ive worked on JLR stuff that 10 years or so younger and taken 6 hours to change a track rod end and a bolt on wheel bearing and a full day changing brakes on a L320 range rover sport because everthyhing and i mean everything was seized. Never start a job and think everything will go smooth, all ways be prepared for the unexpected.
Well done Matt your perseverance paid off and you did a great job there hope you earned your cake!
Good luck with the rears hope hippo behaves for you! All the best Daniel
This episode reminded me of some bad afternoons I’ve had with my MG. Thanks for that. 😊
Always caliper bolts, the last time I took one off my Disco 1 I sheared a bolt and was lucky to drill and tap it out successfully. You reminded me that I have an OEM EBC set of discs and pads for my hippo but I've never actually got to the point of replacing them. Strangely enough even with an impact driver and 90 degree electric impact wrench, I still don't fancy it.
If you are using the disc retaining screws, get stainless steel allen drive screws.
Great perseverance Matt, those bolts were playing very hard to get.
Great content, as always❤.
Honestly I used to have the same issue with anything i touched until i got some higher quality 6 point sockets. The difference is unreal if you spend a few quid. The higher quality sockets are stronger so instead of flexing and rounding the nut/bolt, they actually undo it. Sorry i dont mean to slate any of your tools or sponsors, its just my experience. I still sometimes snap things, but i havent rounded anything off in years.
The problem with this car is more that someones been in and rounded them already so Im dealing with pre-knackered bolts
@@furiousdriving oh that is terrible 😭
6 point sockets from Elora or Wira are usually the best thing for brake callipers . Also spraying everything with penetrating oil the night before works wonders. Just had that lovely job on my Lancer, that also has the brake drum in disk handbrake mechanism at the back. Good fun alround 😅
Even though I own a hammer style impact driver, I don't expect disc retaining screws to come out and usually have replacements on hand before I start (M8 CSK is very common). Drilling through the centre with a Coballt drill (I usually go one size below the tapping diameter*), relieves most of the tension in the fastener and thew will usually then undo, often whilst drilling if you use a left hand drill bit (yes, they exist, it's not a trick to play on apprentices).
When you suspect that a fastener might give trouble, start with the heat and give it the best chance of undoing. Don't round it off first and make life harder for yourself.
If all else fails, weld a nut on the end. Lots of heat to break it loose and a fresh set of flats for a socket or spanner. It's a common technique for removing studs broken off flush, or even below surface.
*Tapping size for metric fasteners is the thread diameter, minus the pitch, so for M8 (common size for disc screws), the standard coarse pitch is 1.25mm, so 8mm - 1.25mm = 6.75mm
I've got disc retaining screws out in the past with an impact driver, but if not available by using a drift punch on the edge of the slot to shock the screw head anti clockwise. Not a centre punch as the flat end of the drift gives more surface area contact. Bit brutal and the screw is normally scrap afterwards but hardly a big problem
Id keep the Freelander and get rid of that 2 ton American paperweight that's rotting on your drive ! .
Matt, for what it's worth, if the brake shoes have plenty of material left on them, they CAN be reclaimed or renovated diy style with brake cleaner and careful application of a blowtorch.....it takes time, yes, that's why most people (and garages) just get a new set. I, being an economical sort of person, will always try and reclaim such items whenever possible and indeed had to do this last year with the rover 25. They are still just fine and the handbrake will lock the wheels with incautious use. Basically, clean with brake cleaner, dry, heat carefully and (obviously!) let them cool and repeat a few times. Learnt this some years ago when doing a customers car for which NO shoes were available for weeks as they had to come from Japan (grey import). They were still working fine when the car was scrapped due to rust 3 years later. Worth a try perhaps....
Back in the day to remove brake fluid from shoes I simply baked them in an oven, yes I had an oven in he workshop specifically for heating parts 👌
@@Dirt-Diggler I haven't personally tried that but can see it working satisfactorily. At the moment, I'm lucky to be able to squeeze into my 'workshop'. This year I think is sorting out time.
(1) Start by removing the the lid off the master cylinder
(2) On any job on a older Rover or Land-Rover have damaged bolt sockets at the ready.
(3) Impact screw driver or left hand drill available for disc retaining screws.
Great little tinkering video Matt and excellent safety advice re a angle grinder. My wife bought one to get the plastic off a washing machine drum so she can make a firepit, she got the safety specs but no gloves and she got a few nicks on her hands from flying sparks! Then her friend who came to do some welding for her noticed the actual disc was not on correctly! Needless to say her friend now has the angle grinder for his workshop.
Those do look simple and easy to use, but they are easy to get wrong and hurt yourself with if you're not careful
Always so much rust in the UK, I live in (Ober) Bavaria in the mountains and have never seen so much rust here.
Do you have salt on the roads in winter where you are? Winter seems to last 14 months of the year here so it dissolves cars
Great video again.
Hi Matt, I think you need to invest in a manual impact driver for the tool box. Always great entertainment and nice to see you at rustival.
The OSF appears to be missing a backplate and agree a set of impact sockets should make removing the seized bolts easier without rounding them off
Always press the pistons back with your old brakes in place with a big screwdriver or pry bar
After the first time trying to get the disc screw out, I allways use an twisting hammer screwdriver!
I’m sure when the brakes are all done and you start using a game for camping you fall in love with the car game if you don’t, I think maybe Subaru Forester or Toyota land cruiser👌
I do already love the old thing, its a very lovable car, but just wonder if its tie for something different to try
What a PITA this car is!
Do you not have an impact screwdriver?? I find it essential for this sort of job. Couple of whacks usually shifts even the most stubborn brakedisc screw.
I hate drum brakes but rule of thumb l had to change the disc pads on a ute l owned because it was the first change of pads the bolts were factory tight and one side took most of the day but the other side took about 30 minutes l had to cut one end of a ring spanner off nut it worked good luck with the drum brakes on the rear
More great content Matt what would you do without Bulldog? When will there be more Fiat Punto content? And when are you going to sell it 😊
my neighbour's ''Hippo' has developed a nasty knock somewhere in the rear transmition, and he is thinking of selling his too. Shame as it drives very well
Check diff mounts. I’ve got front lower arms to do due to the ‘carpet-like’ roads around the southeast. 😂
I hate drum brakes too.
Did you know that you can leave the top caliper slide bolt in place and hinge the caliper upwards and slide it out, and then zip tie the caliper to the coil spring, other top tip is to lever the piston back with a suitable tool with the caliper still in place to help with leverage, and with the little screws in the disc to the hub when they're seized, just turn the lock outwards and then leather the disc off and snap the head of the screw off
the 3rd tip is the most useful Id say!
..if you can't drill the screw head off i meant to add at the end, but if the screw is intact use an impact driver tool after some heat 😁
Please, please get some proper impact sockets for when you use the impact gun, Matt. Normal chrome sockets can suddenly decide to shatter - something that’s happened to me. I’ve got a massive scar on my left palm (when I put my hand up to protect my face) to prove it. 99 times out of 100 you’ll get away with normal sockets, but please don’t risk it.
I have them, just not in the barn
How did you have time to put your hand up to your face when the socket shattered?! You must have the reflexes of a ninja flea.
@@markf4720 Instinct. The pieces of socket did bounce off the deck of the upturned lawnmower I was working on, giving milliseconds more to react.
Not a great thing to be counting yourself lucky to only have a massive gash in your hand. Hence my point.
What type of anti-seize did you use on the bolts ?
copper slip on the bolts and brake grease on the pad backs
Your Rover is crying out for a wash lol
Had the same problem with my Santa Fe's front disc. Nothing would shift it! I decided to drill it out, half way through it started to turn, days wasted. Does the area where the water leaks in smell like ewe de cologne?
whaa whaa whaaaaaa.....
Did u use the tea shelf?
always
Was I the only one cringing has he pulled on the rubber flexes for the break. whilst trying to compress the piston back in for the caliper?
Sorry Matt I forgot to ask ? Do Halfords sells “ fulcrums “ and if so how much ? 😂
It dies look like it's been down to the titanic for a holiday I've been lucky with mine zero rust issues so far I changed front and rear shocke and all top mounts last week transformed the ride only one shock worked all other 3 just sunk and stayed there I would keep hippo your getting through the jobs not a lot left to do and yes 34.78 a month road tax for my 1.8 too the crazy thing is mine is ulez compliant where diesel is not but on paper the petrol puts out more hydrocarbon than the diesel nuts all the best donny
LO Matt, Little bit of an agricultural repair there Auld Stokin. Full marks pure bloody mindedness. Had a similar experiance myself no that long ago and found myself £456 and 26 p plus vat out of pocket. Trying to run in my case a 21 year old daily is no fun these days. Yes it is Ulez compliant but the amount of potholes there is here is ridiculous. Anyways Commline Stuff i have found is good quality tad more expensive but good stuff. Thought for the day. If Mrs Furious is desperate to go for a wee trip wae the girls. Grow a set and tell her to gee yee a hand to get the car sorted. Can she make the tea by any chance?🤣🤣🤣🤣
At least you didn't have to jet wash off half a ton of slurry before starting, a bit stinkier than Sheep wee.
Time to let it go and review the fleet numbers
Do it standing up B&Q high lift Jack £71
I thought you had a Impact Driver
but not the adapter for the screw bits
Amazingly when we change calipers (most are either Apec or Nappa) on cars there is no surcharge on the the old units (exceptions on rarer less common cars where they are returned to the factors!!) and so go in the scrap bin. Baffles me every time and is becoming more common is parts that used to returned and are now thrown away. Drive shafts, altenators, water pumps etc. Nappa it seems can make parts so cheap and easily they don't want anything back. Not exactly environmentally friendly is it!! 🤷🤷
Nappa are terrible quality parts. Stay well clear
Have you heard of an impact driver?
I said in the video I have one but am missing the bits
I would sell it and get something different
Like my wifes manual facelift one that you reviewed. It will be hopefully be available in a month or two. Cheaper tax as well.
Agree the amount of work Matt has put into that is unbelievable
It makes no sense to keep it in a normal world but as a UA-camr he gets plenty of content from it. Plus we do get irrationally attached to these things, don’t we.
How many times does it happen when the smallest jobs turn out to be the biggest pain.😤🤬
its a landrover ...you can never put tools away
👍🏴
Yippee I'm here again
Get a Freelander 2
You’ve been spending too much time with Ian (HubNut) and his “tinkering” technique is rubbing off on you!
LOL… we convinced…. that car is definitely “you”…. 🤔
Might you invest in a proper impact driver instead of hammering a screwdriver?
I have one, but as I mentioned in the video the bits are missing
sorry, I must have not heard that bit@@furiousdriving
You want to jog the Freelander on and get yourself a P38. You know it makes sense 👍
Mate. Your sheep problem. Bear in mind Cryptosporidium. Just sayin'.
thanks, now I feel much better!
@@furiousdriving Sorry mate.
Good to hear that you’re moving it along, you’ve given it a fair crack of the whip. Will you consider a Freelander 2, or is that too modern ala Rover 75?
FL2 is good, but not interesting like the mk1, and not ULEZ either so not very useful