Love watching you I live in Florida and hope I can save some $$$ watching you if I lived in Oklahoma I would definitely call you you are honest and love that you help other out God Bless!
Dude Matt I need you to come to Shell Knob MO and test your luck with my Rusty Jeep, maybe help me diag my parasitic draw and EVAP(fuel smell) 😂 I don't actually expect you there come all the way to Missouri but I did hear you say you where from Missouri and now work in Tulsa Oklahoma right? Man every time I try to remove a suspension bolt like my rear left sway bar link bolt and link bracket bolts it is rusted in bad like a 600ft-lbs impact didn't work, breaker bar didn't work, PB Blaster didn't work. I literally can't remove it, the bolt came out like 3/8" and seized in place. I was gonna put in my coil spring insulators and new sway bar links but it's stuck so I can't get to the coils. It would be awesome to get some advise on what to do with my EVAP leak problem, hoping it isn't a fuel injector. 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8 P1494 current code Older code that hasn't come back is P1499 I can plug in my XTool IP508 scan tool if you need me to check and send you pics
You didn't have to do half that work,drop exhaust,under drive shaft,pull bolts out of diff and tilt it down,you didn't need to pull axles and all that crap
Hey matt, im running a 05 caddy srx, 3.6 with awd. I dont have a clunk, but a very aggressive POPPING sound, when accelerating from a stop, moderate load (gotta take off easy and it wont make the noise). It sounds like the tcase chain is jumping teeth on the sprockets inside. But, maybe its the pinion in the rear diff. Or, maybe the axle shaft splines stripping in the wheel hubs. I tried to diag, by supporting truck on jackstands, and truck wont make the noise. Power braking should do it, but i guess with the suspension fully "droop" it keeps me from duplicating the popping sound. I feel like maybe i need to get it on an alignment rack... Have you came across anything like i am describing?
What a stupid idea to put only one bushing. i have a stsv and it's been 3 times now that i change the bushing. now i ill fill the voids in the bushing with urethane
Well, sir, can't deny that it isn't a stupid idea. But when a customer says he wants one bushing done now and 1 done down the road. I'm not gonna argue with that. That's just 2 payments, and that differential is pretty easy to remove. You've seen this whole video as 13 minutes long. But yes, as I mentioned on the video. It is a stupid design and they fail quickly.
@@ParkersMobile they fail easily because of my earlier comment, the driveshaft will vibrate from the bearing coupler thats in the center underneath the car, when the rubber around the bearing gets shot out it causes the vibration which causes your rear bushing to blow out after the second time i figured this out..
Love watching you I live in Florida and hope I can save some $$$ watching you if I lived in Oklahoma I would definitely call you you are honest and love that you help other out God Bless!
Some people say you dont have to remove the cv axles that you can just pull the two bolts and it will drop down enough to remove the bushing
Actually kinda irks me off that dude wouldn’t let you put new differential fluid in there💀🤣
I agree, wants a new bushing so it doesn’t clunk when he puts it into gear but won’t put new diff fluid in. Seems crazy.
I'm doing this exact job in a couple days. 👍🏽
Im in Northern Ontario Canada and there have been times i have had a 5ft pry bar on an axle giving it the fkn beans and that thing dont wanna let go 😂
Love your show your the best mechanic out there a lot of other mechanics are rip offs
Dude Matt I need you to come to Shell Knob MO and test your luck with my Rusty Jeep, maybe help me diag my parasitic draw and EVAP(fuel smell) 😂
I don't actually expect you there come all the way to Missouri but I did hear you say you where from Missouri and now work in Tulsa Oklahoma right?
Man every time I try to remove a suspension bolt like my rear left sway bar link bolt and link bracket bolts it is rusted in bad like a 600ft-lbs impact didn't work, breaker bar didn't work, PB Blaster didn't work. I literally can't remove it, the bolt came out like 3/8" and seized in place.
I was gonna put in my coil spring insulators and new sway bar links but it's stuck so I can't get to the coils.
It would be awesome to get some advise on what to do with my EVAP leak problem, hoping it isn't a fuel injector.
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L V8
P1494 current code
Older code that hasn't come back is P1499
I can plug in my XTool IP508 scan tool if you need me to check and send you pics
If you adjust your sway bar does it mess with your alignment ?? May be a dumb question lol
nah
You didn't have to do half that work,drop exhaust,under drive shaft,pull bolts out of diff and tilt it down,you didn't need to pull axles and all that crap
I need some help with my Cadillac CTS
Hey matt, im running a 05 caddy srx, 3.6 with awd. I dont have a clunk, but a very aggressive POPPING sound, when accelerating from a stop, moderate load (gotta take off easy and it wont make the noise). It sounds like the tcase chain is jumping teeth on the sprockets inside. But, maybe its the pinion in the rear diff. Or, maybe the axle shaft splines stripping in the wheel hubs.
I tried to diag, by supporting truck on jackstands, and truck wont make the noise. Power braking should do it, but i guess with the suspension fully "droop" it keeps me from duplicating the popping sound. I feel like maybe i need to get it on an alignment rack...
Have you came across anything like i am describing?
What a stupid idea to put only one bushing. i have a stsv and it's been 3 times now that i change the bushing. now i ill fill the voids in the bushing with urethane
Well, sir, can't deny that it isn't a stupid idea. But when a customer says he wants one bushing done now and 1 done down the road. I'm not gonna argue with that. That's just 2 payments, and that differential is pretty easy to remove. You've seen this whole video as 13 minutes long. But yes, as I mentioned on the video. It is a stupid design and they fail quickly.
@@ParkersMobile they fail easily because of my earlier comment, the driveshaft will vibrate from the bearing coupler thats in the center underneath the car, when the rubber around the bearing gets shot out it causes the vibration which causes your rear bushing to blow out after the second time i figured this out..
You are a family man with children. Please try to stop cursing so much. 🙈
newer caddys are crap ! dont buy.