What ingenuity! I’m just mad I found this video midway through my Z1 bushing install. What a PITA! If I could go back in time I would use this method without a doubt. Great video!
For anyone reading, loctite 1365868 appears to be the equivalent. $6 for two tubes. I'd also found putting the hole in one corner of the void part of the bushing(VS the center shown here) and pumping it all in worked the best. PS use a floor jack to lift the diff ever so slightly to be centered again.
Oh okay i think i know what you mean, instead of putting in two or three holes in the bottom part, push the epoxy into the corner of it and fill it up from there.
My epoxy filled bushing is still holding up after 6 years. This summer I might finally put in the whiteline diff bushing I purchased just over 6 years ago, just to see the difference.
Hello - we are trying this technique on our 2008 G37, but can’t get more than 1/3 of a locktite epoxy tube in each void. How much did you use on each pocket of the bushing?
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.... UA-cam doesn't make it easy to find a comment on a comment from 5 years ago... As for how much... as much as you can get in. In my case I used 14ml in total (top and bottom)
Im going to use this method on my F10 rear diff bushes! Was thinking of some sort of hard silicone to put in there, but epoxy sounds better. Not one indy garage in my area would undertake replacing these bushes, BMW quotes around £900 and I will be getting rid of the car in a couple years. This seems like a perfect solution. Thanks for the video dude!
I just stumbled onto this channel and all of these videos are stellar! Such a good solution for us G/Z owners who don't have a proper garage or disposable income.... This bushing has been blown on my car for years. Can't wait to try this. Thanks!
Hey Travis Mills, Wow... Thank you for your kind words, you made my day! Just in case you didn't see it, here is a 1 year update on the $20 bushing fix: ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video. Well shot, edited, and explained. You should have more subscribers. I subscribed - thanks and hope you keep making these kind of vids. My engineer side appreciates the no nonsense vids.
Thanks for your kind words. There is a lot of work going on right now for future episodes. PLUS I have 3 episodes that I shot in the summer/fall that will start port production next month. Thanks for subbing!
Back yard engineering at its finest. I used to do this on old 4g63 motor mounts before purchasing the "expensive" poly replacements back in the late 90's and early 2000's. it is only a temp/quick fix, but it will work.
Hey blindonejc, Thanks for your comment. In the next week or so, I will mount a few cameras under the car and see how it is holding up. I really don't know what to expect...
Hey blindonejc, You must be reading my mind.... I will be shooting that video in the next few days, and it should be on my channel in a few weeks after that. I am really looking forward to seeing how it is or is not holding up :)
Hey Jeremy Cook, In the spirit of DIY, I drilled two holes in a 3/16" steel bar about 1" by 10" and bolted my trusty GoPro Hero 4. The other end was bolted to an existing bracket for the rear plastic cover. A lot of work was done in post-production to brighten the image and reduce noise.
Wow, what an amazing and clever solution. I hope it lasts. I replaced all my differential bushings with the Z1 bushing kit (g37 sedan). I can tell you that it was not fun/easy to do because of the spare tire compartment.
Hey muasboy, Thanks for your kind words! I hope it lasts as well, and if not, it will be a future episode :) Yes, there is VERY little space to work or to fit a camera.
(Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. With UA-cam it is VERY difficult to find a reply from a comment from 4 years ago) Anyways, I did bolt a camera under my car in the fall of 2021 and it is holding up well. The video will be used in a upcoming episode, so you will see for your self :)
I love this idea. I had planned to do this with my car but I was thinking of a liquid polyurethane instead. Something like Windo-Weld maybe. I also thought I'd try to clean the cavity first with brake cleaner or something. Also, I was wondering why you didn't jack up the diff a little bit to estimate where it would be resting had the bushing been in perfect condition. I would think that it's sagging with the ruptured bushing so maybe jacking it up ½ inch maybe would be a good idea until the adhesive has cured and hardened.
Hey Pollo Frito, Feel free to clean out the cavity, but since it is a cavity, once the epoxy/polyurethane has hardened it can't go anywhere. If I was to do it again, I would jack up the diff just a little, maybe 1/8" to 1/4", just so the bushing centre is a little higher. Then when everything is hardened, it should be very close to the proper centre. You don't want to go too high, as this will greatly change the pinion angle of the differential which can create noise/vibration. (At least in theory) Thanks for you comment!
@@MotorvateDIY Hi Motorvate, in this method, one leaves the car on the ground and just jacks the diff itself 1/8 to 1/4 inch up, correct? could this be achieved by jacking the car completely off the ground so the wheels are in mid-air? (I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would or would not change the diff relative to it just having the car sit on the ground) I'm guessing this is due to my being a car repair novice
The rear of the diff is supported by a single rubber bushing that fails over time. Jacking up the diff a little, increases the size of the lower bushing chamber (this is the one the splits and the silicone oil leaks out). Then injecting the epoxy or polyurethane an letting it cures, should result in a more filled chamber which should make it just a little more firm.
This is great. The proper fix really is for Infiniti not to use these time bomb of bushings. Definitely a design flaw. Not being serviceable is extremely disappointing. I made the suggestion on myg37 for video for the whitelines. I do think this epoxy fix will be more than sufficient for the purpose it serves. Of course the whiteline bushings would be the most ideal, but so is ease of install and time cost. Thanks for the great video!
I wouldn't call it a design "flaw" as it's absolutely intentional. Manufacturers want their cars to be reliable but...they don't want them to have TOO much longevity. Best to think of car design in the "planned obsolescence" category.
Infiniti wanted to charge me $2800 to replace the entire subframe because the bushing was leaking. And then $300 for alignment after replacing the subframe.
Literally the only thing I could find!! with the mix tube at that because everything else is resealable, funny enough it was in the painter/tape area of Walmart beside the gorilla glue because in automotive they only have putty’s that have to be mixed and I wasn’t gonna just get a syringe for 1 time use only😂
thanks for you reply , and yes i now everyone telling me is not easy job some take almost a day to fix if you dont have proper tools . is okay it least will see how long epoxy will last
I used this method until parts came in for new bushing from ZMotorSports, but how does your drive shaft coupler look, mine I think needs replacing. A follow up video would be great!! Thanks for your content
The G37s with the 6 speed manual transmission don't use that rubber coupler. I think only the rear wheel drive G37 with the 7 speed automatic transmission use it. Last I read, that part is only available with a new driveshaft :( But one person on my37.com found that the 4th gen supra uses the same part...
No, but I wish I did. Over the last few years the epoxy has deformed and there is a little more play. Others have used the windshield urethane sealant, and a far as I know, they have had good luck with it.
I didn’t the same thing but I used jb steel clay kind and put it inside the diff bushing and it’s real solid I don’t feel my wheel hop like before is jb weld a smart decision I thought it was
(Sorry just saw this now! Sometime YT comments just appear from the past) Very good! In June 2024, I removed it and put in a Whiteline poly diff bushing. I've cut open the blown factory bushing, and will show all in a future video.
Truly amazing video. Are you a TV producer/mechanic? Can't imagine a more professional presentation, not to mention the money your idea can save all us G37 owners! The dealer told me yesterday that the bushings only last 6 or 7 years (I am in Las Vegas though) so, gee, $4,000 = $600/yr in bushing maintenance. What a rip. But I now have a $20 fix. Could it maybe be a permanent fix? If the rubber and epoxy last, is it possible the problem won't resurface? Thank you Thank you Thank you for your generous spirit.
Hey Steve Devlan, Wow... thank you for your VERY kind words. This made my day! My background is technical training development/delivery, video production and chief grease monkey. :) If I was to do it again, I would use something other than epoxy... maybe a urethane rubber, but that might be difficult to inject. (there is very little room) The other option is a one time fix: A poly urethane diff bushing: www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/244945-whiteline-differential-bushings.html After 3 years, my epoxy fix seems a little loose. Now that the warm weather is here, I can get under the car and have a look and figure out next steps.
I'm not sure I understand your question. The video shows a quick and easy way to restore most/all of the stiffness from the diff bushing without replacing it. If you want to replace it, there are many good options. However, removing the old bushing is not a quick or easy job.
I used a 5 minute epoxy "LePage Instant Mix Speed Set Epoxy" and let it cure for a few hours, just to be safe. What ever you decide to use, simply follow the instructions to understand how long it takes to fully cure with you local temperature and humidity.
can you please explain how to inject the epoxy into the cavity of bushing? so first you inject 1/3 of the tube into lower part of bushing, then another 1/3 ot the tube into the lower part of bushing on the other side, and finally last remaining 1/3 goes into outside of bushing?
Hey rsfan010, Good question. Inject the entire tube into the lower part of the bushing. Thinking about it now, there is no real need to squirt in 1/3 on the left side, 1/3 on the right side and 1/3 in the middle. Just inject it in the middle and it will settle down to the bottom of the bushing cavity before it starts to set. Then poke a small hole in the upper part of the bushing and inject the entire tube into it. It might not hurt to have a third epoxy tube to ensure the top is filled. I hope this explains it better. Good luck!
Good question! I only cut/punctured the top, so the epoxy could use gravity to fill the lower cavity. I wasn't sure how much epoxy I could inject into the bottom and wanted to do what I can to make sure it is mostly filled.
Thanks for subbing! I spend a few hours each day working on future content or editing videos... I'm slow to get videos out but I hope the content is good and unique :)
It's still good! Last year I bolted a GoPro under my car to check on how it is holding up... and it looks to be the same. No new tears in the rubber bushing and has about the same amount of deflection under full throttle acceleration.
Hi thanks for the advice. In one of the comments (can't find it now) you mentioned if you were to do it again that you would use a black polyurethane that is used to seal windshield. Do you think this would be a much more durable way to do it? Because I'm thinking of doing mine soon but I want to use the most durable product. I live in Australia btw so I hope the product is easily available here whatever you will recommend. Thanks
I did say that. For the making of the video, I wanted to use something easy to find and low cost, so epoxy was chosen. The epoxy has held up well, but I think the black polyurethane would be a little better, BUT takes 24+ hours to cure... the epoxy is ready in 5 minutes, which is also nice! What ever you decide to do, good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY thanks. Once the epoxy is put inside then filled and dried then after about 3 years if I need to do it again does that mean I'll have to remove all the bushing out and replace with new one or will there be gap inside to fill with epoxy again?
As I see it, the epoxy should hold up for a very long time. I did mine 5 years ago. Late last year (2022), I mounted a GoPro under my car to check to see how the epoxy filled bushing is holding up. So far, so good! Down the road, I may replace it with a Whiteline bushing, just to see the before and after difference. BUT for now, it is working well!
When the busing is really bad, there will be a clunk when getting on and off the throttle. The clunk is due to the rubber bushing splitting and allow the center bushing bolt to hit the metal side of the bushing. When the bushing first splits you might find the car feels for-aft "bouncy" when going on and off the throttle. It is tough to describe, but I hope explained ok.
Motorvate DIY thank you! I'm in Alberta right now, mine just ruptured. I can heat the garage but I'm worried about the epoxy curing... I can leave the car for about 16 hrs in a heated garage
Motorvate DIY this was quite a bit harder than expected. Pushing the expoxy took an enormous amount of hand strength. I probably used 2/3rd of 2 tubes. Eventually I couldn't push anymore out. Hard to tell if the cavities got completely filled too. Did you find this with yours?
Hey frazer9, Depending on how much you bend the "mixing tube" it will be more difficult for the epoxy to pass though it. If you bend it too much in one area, it may kink and almost close the tube. I wonder if that happened with yours? When I did mine, it did take a fair amount of force, but it did move slow and steady. Worst case, you can have a look in the warmer weather and add more epoxy if you feel it needs more. You can't overfill them :)
Also.... if you used 5 minute epoxy you won't need much more time than that if the garage is at room temperature. Check the back of the epoxy tube to see what it says about how long it takes to cure in cold temperatures.
That sure is clever idea! Now what, what iff we did the same thing with suspension control arms bushings? Especially the ball joint. I have a couple bad control arm bushings on my G37 and you just inspired me to finally fix em with the low budget I live with this year.
hey ahm5514, Awesome! There really is no harm in trying it with epoxy. If it works you are good to go. If not, well then you need to replace the bushing. Later this week I will be shooting an update video on the diff bushing to see how well it is holding up.
I just subbed to your channel, as another comment said, there are not a lot of G vids on here. you're a gem haha. I'll be waiting to see the follow up vid. and as you said, if it doesn't work well, it shouldn't make it worse either. one day I'll be replacing them anyways.
how long does it take for the epoxy to dry? Living in arizona has made stuff take much longer to dry (rearview mirror fell off, I'm using a temp mirror for a week while I wait)
Hey Frank after you filled the leaking cavities ( top and bottom ) why did you choose not to fill the entire cavity to make it flush with the metal collars? Thanks and I really enjoy your efforts.
The first thought was to try to replace the missing silicon fluid. As for filling the entire cavity, I wouldn't know what to use that would stick to the outer bushing rubber.
Changed mine to z1 Motorsport solid bushings. It was definitely a nightmare to change out! Should’ve seen this video and saved myself the time and craziness.
Hi Motorvate, I did the epoxy fix for the bottom pocket of the differential bushing. The top pocket wasn't ruptured, so does that mean there's still grease in there or did it flow out of the bottom pocket that ruptured?
Hey rocs209, I am 99% sure that the top pocket and bottom pocket are connected inside the bushing, so it would have all leaked out the bottom. It did on mine .
Hey cooldaddyslick, Yes, the wheels can be off the ground. Since the rear suspension is independent, the wheels can move without the differential moving. Good luck!
@ The bottom part of the bushing is the more important one to fill. When you accelerate, the rear of the differential pushes down, so you want the bottom of the bushing filled. When you let off the gas, the rear of the differential moves up. The upper part of the bushing is now hollow (since the silicon fluid leaked out) and the diff will have a little more movement upward. Is this bad? I don't think so... but if the upper part of the bushing is also filled, the car should have "front / rear bounce" when you are on and off the throttle like when driving in traffic. (If you have an automatic transmission, you might not notice this, but with a manual transmission you will)
@ "Metal Hole?" If you are talking about the upper and lower chamber in the rubbing bushing, filling both is best. BUT the most important one is the bottom, since the back of the differential pushes down when the car accelerates.
I used "LePage LePage Speed Set Instant Mix Epoxy, 14 ml" but I think that is only available in Canada. Any 5 minute epoxy with the "instant mix" should work. Something like this: www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/epoxies/loctite_epoxy_instantmix5minute.html However if I was to do it again, I would some kind of a polyurethane. Over the last 3 years, the large amount of torque at the differential has compressed the epoxy and there is now more play in the diff bushing.
Thanks! I am not interested in ever getting a diff brace. Drive line shock absorption (rubber bushings) is a good think and prevents gears and shafts from breaking.
@@MotorvateDIY wheel hop, broken diff bushing , broken axles, grinding gears, broken other bushings is way worse without support. Hence why ever track Z has them without any adverse effects. Proper diff bushings, diff brace, trams mount for the win. The Z trans gears already have problem with the diff bushing failures. My stock 13 trans went out cuz of this. My 16 track wants to do same but not hard on fast gear changes in stock diff set up vlsd. Like to go 1.5 way, 4.08 final, Z1 diff cover, Bellracing brace, Z1 trans mount, Z1 diff bushings for the win. Night n day out of the corners.
Hey Torvarris Evans, I love the Bahamas! Anyways, the epoxy filled bushing is still on the car. Actually you just gave me an idea.... I will do an "1 Year Later" update episode.
Hey Torvarris Evans, That is a MAP sensor code and I can't see it having to do anything with cleaning the throttle bodies. Nissan/Infiniti defines a P010A as: An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM. Unplug and plug in the connector on the MAP sensor and check your wiring.
Hey sk8punk318, In the spring I will be going back to the dyno to re-test. This time I will use a brand new Infiniti air filter, a K&N and also dyno it without an air filter. I am working on a Arduino based, 12 bit pressure sensor to data log the pressure difference on either side of the air filter. Whatever the results are, it will be a future episode.
Motorvate DIY awesome thanks man I appreciate it. I don't think your numbers are off I just want to see exactly what the lines look like on the computer screen.
That is a difficult question to answer as I don't have any experience with the Z1 bushings. If you want to stiffen up the back of the car, I would think the Z1 diff bushings and the Z1 aluminum subframe bushing may be worth looking into. BUT keep in mind, when bushings are replaced with firmer ones, then there may not be any "cushion" to absorb the shock and sometimes thing break.
Unfortunately, they are not longer available, but here is an old review: floorjacked.com/scepter-pro-ramps-review/ Their dimensions are 11.9" wide x 34" long x 8.9" high -AND- lift the car about 6". Here is an episode from then I did a quick review of them: ua-cam.com/video/JPZ4ccFXMQg/v-deo.html To this day, I use them often. On some cars that are too low to get under for an oil change, I just drive them up the ramp. They are quick and easy to use!
As you can guess, it is very difficult to determine a cause from a single sentence: "It clunks in 3rd"... With that said, if it doesn't clunk in the 1-2 shift, I would think it is the transmission...
The 07-08 G35 is the same platform as the 09-13 G37 (known as the V36) so I think they use the same liquid filled bushing. Also, this page on Z1 Motorsports website (www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-urethane-rear-differential-bushing-set-p-10356.html) also mentions this. So I do believe you can fill the empty bushing cavity with epoxy or something else that cures fairly firm.
Hey Austin Murphy, Excellent question! A rubber bushing on the differential, subframe or the engine reduce stress from engine torque and prevents damaging other components during gear or throttle changes as it allows a little "cushion".
Great question! but I don't know anything about the Pathfinder. If the bushings is shot/torn and you see something that had dripped from it, then it did have a fluid filled section. If the bushing is shot, you have nothing to loose and try to poke a small hole in the top or bottom. If it is a solid bushing, you won't be able to. BUT if it has a chamber, then you would poke through the thin rubber skin and now can try to fill it with something like epoxy or a polyurethane .
No urgent rush... Without the fluid the rubber bushing will slowly start to tear depending on how heavy you are on the throttle. But the sooner you do it, the better. :)
Totally normal... The more the sub frame moves on the bushings, the easier it is on the transmission and driveshaft. The main goal of the subframe (and diff bushing) is to absorb shock.
Last fall, I bolted a camera under my car and went for a drive... I am happy to report it still is holding up. I was going to replace the bushing, but so far it is doing good.
@@MotorvateDIY How long did you wait before you start to drive after applying the epoxy? Here is about -5 Celsius degrees, and is it okay to proceed this fix during the cold temperature?
Just what I needed. Don't have the money or time to fix this right now and the dealership is getting 1400 dollars out of me over my dead body :) If this can get me by for 6 months to a year that would help a ton. The annoying thing is I bought the car last year and had them inspect the car before finalizing the purchase and this was not included in what is wrong with the car but the power delivery felt 'slushy' since I first got it (I assumed maybe its just because its a luxury car) and suspect it was busted this whole time.
The video/repair was done in late 2017 and it is still holding up just fine. Last fall, I mounted a GoPro under my G37 to check the bushing and it was still good... so I think you will get 6+ months without any problems :)
Three years in and many passes down the drag strip hasn't been good to it. The epoxy is holing up well, but the rubber bushing has a tear and there is more bushing movement. I think if I would have used more epoxy it would up held up better, but that is just a guess. In the next few weeks, I will be putting in the Whiteline bushing I purchased 3+ years ago.
I paid a lot more the kicker was that it didn't need it. Apparently in 2013 the previous owner took it to infinity and they replaced the whole subframe. I bought the bushings I had my mechanic put it in I called them later and he was like I don't even know why you did this it didn't need it. Turned out the black line of death was from the previous bushing that was in there. Now the car has poly and subframe sleeves so it isn't going anywhere
Awesome video, great quality too! Does the ruptured bushing make knocking sound i can hear in the video? Mine does the same noise from the rear left side. I was wandering if it is the rear left shock, but now after watching your video it realy might be the bushing. Thank you!
Hey Eugene Tooms, Thanks for the comment on the quality of the video. My ruptured bushing didn't make any sounds that I could hear from the driver's seat. The sound in the video may be from the GoPro camera knocking against the camera enclosure. If the noise is from the left rear side, I would check your inner and outer CV joints for excessive play.
Thank you very much for the reply and great work on the videos, which are really needed as G37 started having many issues right after the warranty expired. Mine has 69K and so far read diff replacement (covered by powertrain warranty), starter replacement ($900 out of pocket), Sway bar links replacement (did myself, $100 parts)
Hey Eugene Tooms, Sorry to hear of your troubles... If you have AWD the starter is very difficult to remove. Rear wheel drive is much easier and can be removed and replaced about an hour. Mine is making a funny noise and I will be removing and re-greasing it in the spring.
Yeah, mine is G37x. My starter had died without any warnings, and I stuck in a parking lot on Sunday with my take-out food. But using an old trick, just tapping the starter I was able to start the car again. I wanted to fix myself as the part costs only $150 from junkyard but at the time needed my car and could not wait weekend to fix it.
Did you car make a click and that was all? Mine did as well. I turned out to be a corroded washer on the starter. 60 minutes later and some 80 grit emery cloth and it was fixed. Seems to be a common issue. (yes, this will be a future episode)
Hey Terry1212, The bushing has no influence on ride quality, since it is not between the wheels suspension and the body. Once the bushing is ruptured and torn, over time it will continue to tear the rubber. This is most noticeable when on and off the throttle (like when in stop and go traffic) and the car will seem to have more play in the drive line. (because it does) Over the long term the bushing will continue to tear it self apart and start to rattle once the rear differential mounting stud starts to hit the metal edges of the bushing. This results in the rear of the differential being able to move up a 1/2" and down 1/2" depending on throttle position. If you drive the car very easy, you might not notice anything different. BUT also if you always drove the car easy, the bushing most likely wouldn't rupture. Mine ruptured after the first time I took the car to the drag strip in 2016, based on the drip marks on the diff cover. If the rubber bushing is not too beat up, you can inject epoxy and be done. Or wait until it is completely worn out and replace it with a aftermarket diff bushing kit then. In the spring of 2020, I will shoot a short video of the diff and see how well it is holding up after 2 years :)
Hey Albert Caval, Any 5 minute epoxy with some type of "mixing stick" should work... Something like "Loctite® Epoxy Instant Mix™ 5 Minute" that can be found on amazon: www.amazon.com/s?k=Loctite%C2%AE+Epoxy+Instant+Mix%E2%84%A2+5+Minute&ref=nb_sb_noss Good luck!
Hey Andy Nguyen, Nope... When the bushing is replaced, most use a sawzall to cut out the inside, then cut the outer metal lip. That is the best part about doing this, there is no down side. If it doesn't work, then you cut our the bushing.... if it does work in 20 minutes you are done. Mine is now 3 years old and I will be bolting the camera under the car for a 3 year update episode :)
Any epoxy should work well... If I was to do this again, I would try to find a black "Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive" It should be more durable and handle the heat of the differential in hot conditions.
Hey The Fulcrum, Something like "Loctite® Epoxy Instant Mix™ 5 Minute" should work great. It can be purchased at you local hardware store or amazon: www.amazon.com/s?k=Loctite%C2%AE+Epoxy+Instant+Mix%E2%84%A2+5+Minute&ref=nb_sb_noss
This is pretty cool tbh lol. Can’t really afford some new bushings around since I need a new clutch & flywheel.. definitely will try this out soon! Btw my feedback from my differential is pretty noticeable with the clunking going through each gear making a “tinnnnk” noise haha.
Hey Austinn Keomany, Wow, I guess your rear diff bushing is in much worse condition than mine was. I didn't have any clunking/tinking sounds. Good luck and I hope your bushing is not too far gone for this to work.
Do you think it would be beneficial to take the weight off the bushing by putting a jack under the differential before squirting in the epoxy? Also, does the top chamber need to be filled with epoxy even if it's not ruptured? Did it have any silicone in it when you popped it?
Hey mjseltzer22, I think lifting the diff a little (about 1/8") before adding the epoxy is a great idea! It would take the weight of the differential off the bushing, and allow the inner bushing to be position in a more central location. I think the rear part of my diff might be slighty lower than stock. I will have a closer look in the spring. Also, I suspect this would reduce the diff bushing movement a little more.
Almost forgot... The top and bottom chambers are connected inside the bushing, so when the lower one ruptured, all the silicone fluid leaked out. It was totally empty when I poked in the screwdriver to make a small hole, to inject the epoxy.
Motorvate DIY considering the chambers are connected, i think if i were to do this I'd take the weight off the diff, puncture the top chamber, then pump polyurethane construction adhesive in with a caulk gun until it started squeezing out the crack in the bottom.
So how its holding i filled mine with polyurethane and iam waiting after 2 days ill drive i only got knock once in reverse so if your fix is holding ill use it
Hey Sroor9001, Well.... to find out, have a look here :) 1 Year Later… $20 Differential Bushing Fix: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.33 ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
Hi As I am from Canada I was wondering how expensive shipping from z1 is? And if anyone else has any other websites with cheaper shipping to Canada please let me know. Thanks looking forward to hearing back from you
Hey Meap HD, When I purchased my Stillen cat back exhaust in 2016, I used "Whitehead Performance" (whiteheadperformance.com/) Their prices were a little cheaper than buying from the US.
Hows the bushing holding up? I noticed my bushing is ruptured when I was changing out the rear differential fluid. Would love to hear how your fix is going so far!
Hey Daniel P, It still "feels" firm when accelerating, however I plan to mount a camera under the car and see how it looks/acts in the next few weeks. This crazy cold spring has kept me out of my garage, but it is now warming up :)
Hey supremeNundftd, I have shot the video and had a quick look... It looks to be holding up well and looks the same as last year. When I edit the follow up episode, I will have a side by side comparison which should help highlight any small differences. That episode is second on my "to do" list and I hope to out in a few weeks.
Hey victor wu, I don't have any first hand experience with the AWD G37s, but I am 99% sure the front diff bolts to the side of the engine and as a result, there are no front diff bushings. It is indirectly supported by the engine mounts. Since the AWD system on the G37 only sends power to the front when the rear slips, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Just change the diff oil every 4-5 years and it should be trouble free.
Thank you for the response : ) what i was referring to are the front differential bushings right behind the differential itself. For example this 370z how to video at 8:20 shows the bushing. m.ua-cam.com/video/PZZA1bGpa9I/v-deo.html Ive heard these bushings fail as well but not as fast, just wondering what your thoughts on these are, since it may be a concern if they are made of the same material. If they dont exist on the g37 then nevermind haha! Anyways big fan of your videos!!, im actually going to pick up some epoxy tomorrow and try this method out!
Hey victor wu, Ahhh... I understand now. I don't think the front diff bushing on the rear differential "wear out". Since they are solid rubber, they should last a very long time.
Okay awesome thank you! I was also wondering how you knew how much epoxy to put in top and bottom chambers. Would it be safe to put more until you see it flow out o.0?
Hey victor wu, I put used two 14 ml tubes of epoxy. One for the top and one for the bottom. If you are using something else, put in as much as you can and the extra will drip out. Good luck!
Hwy Rixhz34, Thanks for your kind words! Those ramps are the "Scepter Pro Ramp" and often go on sale at Canadian Tire for under $40. They are also on Amazon.com for $50. Here is a short review of how I used 4 ramps to get under the car quickly: ua-cam.com/video/JPZ4ccFXMQg/v-deo.html
Hey Esteban Fernández, There is no need to clean up anything. We are using the epoxy to fill the empty cavity where the silicon fluid was. It doesn't need to stick to anything, it just needs to harden inside the bushing.
Hey Block o Butter, Not really. Once the bushing no longer has the silicone fluid, it will have more up and down movement. Over time, this will start to tear the left and right side of the bushing, due to the additional up/down movement every time the vehicle is accelerated. Worst case, the rubber bushing is completely torn away from outer part and you might hear a metal on metal clank or bang as the inner metal bushing ring, hits the outer metal bushing ring. At this point, it must be replaced before the metal bolt that does into the rear differential is damaged or breaks. Now, if you inject something (like epoxy) into the empty cavity of the diff bushing (top and bottom) , the bushing should last at least a few years. I did mine 3 years ago, and will be bolting a camera under the car to see how it is holding up in a future episode.
@@MotorvateDIY Ok. So I injected some epoxy in the differential bushing and alot of bushing fluid came out, including some epoxy mixed with the original fluid. Is that normal? Perhaps the bushing was already filled and not that much has leaked out. Also, did you put some epoxy on the outside of the rubber to seal up the hole you made with the screwdriver? I barely used half of the tube and fluids leaked out.
Hey Block o Butter, It looks like you caught the ruptured bushing quick as not all of the fluid had leaked out. In your case, since some fluid was still inside, the epoxy pushed some of it out and mixed with some of it. Just do your best to fill the upper and lower cavity with epoxy and you should be good :)
@@MotorvateDIY Great. Actually, the Infiniti dealership caught it first and wanted to charge $2300 USD (around 3,000 CAD) to replace the entire subframe just for the bushing. I ran as fast as possible and thank goodness I found this video.
Hey Dennis Bird, Good question! The "5 minute epoxy" means that it "sets" in 5 minutes and is no longer sticky to the touch. The full cure time is longer and you should look at the technical data sheet for the epoxy you used. If you used the epoxy I did, let it sit for an hour you should be good. I think I let mine site for 30 minutes, before I went on a test drive.
@@MotorvateDIY Update: Worked great. I haven't given it full throttle yet but I could tell the difference as soon as I backed out of my parking space this morning. My car is an automatic and the shifting was so much smoother. Thanks again for doing this.
Hey Freddy Alaniz, Good question. Any epoxy will work as long as you can mix it and inject it into the epoxy. The is VERY little room to work and I needed to use the syringe and have it mix in the extension. When I went to the store, what I used was the only option that would work.
Hey Don Bremmer, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you...sometime the comments get buried and I miss the odd one. I will be shooting an update video on the epoxy fix this week, and if it is not working when I replace the bushing and make an episode :)
Love to see that video and also looking forward to seeing all of your future videos. Mostly kids in early 20s posting videos about this type of car(s) and their videos aren't well put together like yours.
It would be awesome to see a vid on driveshaft(maybe you call it a prop shaft) swapping. since we G owners got a 2 piece driveshaft and the 370Z has a lighter one piece.
Hey sk8punk318, Sorry, but there are no plans for replacing the G37s driveshaft. As I see it, any gains would be small and the increase in noise/vibration would not be wanted. Look at this post: www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/273804-sedans-dss-one-piece-driveshaft.html#post4076635
Motorvate DIY I just thought about it cuz the Z's come with a 1 piece so I didn't know if it might make any decent difference. I get so many different answers to this question, but...what is the 0-60 on a 2011 G37S 7AT coupe? Or I guess basically any coupe S 7speed auto...yeah I know it's an auto.
Hey sk8punk318, The 7AT sedans and coups take mid to low 5 seconds to reach 60 mph. The gearing of the 7AT is better for acceleration in the first 3 gears than the 6MT.
I wonder how poly-urethane would work, as many people inject it into motor mount cavities. Maybe I'll have to try since I do auto glass and have urethane on hand :)
Hey Marshall Volkmann, Funny that you mentioned poly-urethane.... That was my first thought, but it is not easy for everyone to get, so I thought I would try 5 minute epoxy. I would expect poly-urethane to work well, but may take a many hours to cure....
Hey mjseltzer22, That should work well, but as you will see there is VERY little room, maybe 4-5 inches between the spare tire well and the subframe. I don't know if the caulking gun would fit in. Please let me know how you make out and what you did to get it to fit.
@@MotorvateDIY Just get fish tank air line hosing and attach it to the tip. I do this on my shop vac to clean out tight engine space, spark plugs wells etc.
Hello I am french and I have an infiniti g37 of 2009 will you have websites on accessories for infiniti, because we in France it is difficult to find thank you cordially
hey Bastien lormescity, I am not sure I can help... Here is the website for Infiniti accessories in the US: parts.infinitiusa.com/infinitiParts/index.cfm?action=accessories Maybe you can find the part number you are looking for and then search ebay for them? Other than that, I don't know how I can help. Good luck!
Hey jpopp999, I hope it works for you as well as it has for me :) After one year, it is still holding up well: 1 Year Later… $20 Differential Bushing Fix: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.33 ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
You can get the epoxy in different strengths per sq in. Faster the setup higher the strength, to a point. I would use some sikaflex on the face it'ssoftbut never comes off ever get it from home depot it turns to strong rubber. Epoxy 5,000 per sq in or better inside. Good youtube video. I have this rattling on starts with my 350z 2006. I hope it works for me.
Hey Denny Christensen, With the blown bushing, I didn't have a rattle. It was just a little "bouncy" when on/off the throttle. You might want to check all the heat shields on your exhaust. Over time, the shield brackets corrode and can vibrate at specific engine RPM. When you say it rattles on "starts" is that when the engine starts, or when you start to move? Also is your transmission manual or automatic?
Motorvate DIY when i say start i meant driving. I'll still hear it up to about 2.75 rpm in 1st to 2nd gear and at times 2nd to 3rd gear. My car only has 47,000 on a 2006 and has a pretty new clutch and stock bumper to bumper. Only tires and after market brakes installed. Have you had this problem. Also driving freeways at 60 mph and up i get kinda howling sound like a bearing from on of the wheels
Hey Denny Christensen, I think you are describing the normal "gear whine" sound the 6 speed manual transmission makes. As for the highway sound, jack up the car to get he wheels off the ground. Then use your hand to turn each wheel and see how smooth each wheel turns. Does the highway howl change when turning left or right? Turning will change the load on the wheel bearing, and if they are worn, the sound will also change.
The howling sound doesn't Not change like a bad wheel bearing. More important my new friend, the sound from the transmission area is only when clutch it full released and on the throttle around 2.5+ rpm Sounds as if I'm starting in to high of gear bogging rattle like a a rattle snake x10. Lol, I am pretty mechanically inclined building commercial planes. But this has me worried a little. I love my z so much and it's been 3 weeks and 2 days since I bought mine I'm buying another one 2004 350z $10.500 Red convertible automatic with only 9,800miles on it. It wasn't even on the market yet a friend hooked me up with a friend deal. Not even 10k on it lol
Hey Denny Christensen, Hmmm I really don't know. Two things come to mind: (1) Our 6 speed manual transmission are a little "clunky" when spinning, so the noise could be normal. (2) The flywheel on the VQ37 is a dual mass flywheel and sometimes the inner and outer masses can rattle. Could you try to record a short video?
Omg. Your video is going to be viral on the GZ’s world. Much respect for you to come up with this. 10 thumbs up
Hey Gary liang,
Thank you for your kind words!
In the summer, I will produce a follow up episode to see how well it is holding up.
What ingenuity! I’m just mad I found this video midway through my Z1 bushing install. What a PITA! If I could go back in time I would use this method without a doubt. Great video!
Glad you liked it!
This is one of the best DIY channel for GZ world! Thanks mate!
Hey Mc Q,
Thank you for watching! I think this is the first time I have been called a "mate" :)
Dude, you rule, thanks for such a quick easy fix explained in perfect detail with excellent camera work illustrating all
Glad you liked it. Good luck with the repair.
For anyone reading, loctite 1365868 appears to be the equivalent. $6 for two tubes. I'd also found putting the hole in one corner of the void part of the bushing(VS the center shown here) and pumping it all in worked the best. PS use a floor jack to lift the diff ever so slightly to be centered again.
Excellent tip! Thanks for sharing.
When you say void part do you mean the part that is full rubber?
Oh okay i think i know what you mean, instead of putting in two or three holes in the bottom part, push the epoxy into the corner of it and fill it up from there.
That apoxy plus a diff brace just may be gold!!
My epoxy filled bushing is still holding up after 6 years.
This summer I might finally put in the whiteline diff bushing I purchased just over 6 years ago, just to see the difference.
@@MotorvateDIY impressive work
@@MotorvateDIY Do it!
@@MotorvateDIY@MotorvateDIY How's your car on Whiteline bushing now? Thinking of getting their bushings but epoxy fillings is wayyyy easier
this is pretty common in the honda world. For those who are concerned, don't be. You were driving around with a blown bushing before lol.
Hey Robert Falcone,
Excellent point! I will be shooting the follow up video in the next few weeks to see how the epoxy is holding up.
Absolutely correct.
In the Honda world, the torque mounts normally tearout. The solution to that is fill the voids with 3M windoweld.
Hello - we are trying this technique on our 2008 G37, but can’t get more than 1/3 of a locktite epoxy tube in each void. How much did you use on each pocket of the bushing?
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.... UA-cam doesn't make it easy to find a comment on a comment from 5 years ago...
As for how much... as much as you can get in. In my case I used 14ml in total (top and bottom)
Im going to use this method on my F10 rear diff bushes! Was thinking of some sort of hard silicone to put in there, but epoxy sounds better. Not one indy garage in my area would undertake replacing these bushes, BMW quotes around £900 and I will be getting rid of the car in a couple years. This seems like a perfect solution. Thanks for the video dude!
(Sorry just saw this now! Sometime YT comments just appear from the past)
I hope it worked out for you!
Thanks for this! I just had this happen to a Toyota Highlander. It has no other differential leaks, and I am tempted to take this shortcut.
If you decide to try this, please let me know how it worked out for you.
I just stumbled onto this channel and all of these videos are stellar! Such a good solution for us G/Z owners who don't have a proper garage or disposable income.... This bushing has been blown on my car for years. Can't wait to try this. Thanks!
Hey Travis Mills,
Wow... Thank you for your kind words, you made my day!
Just in case you didn't see it, here is a 1 year update on the $20 bushing fix:
ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video. Well shot, edited, and explained. You should have more subscribers.
I subscribed - thanks and hope you keep making these kind of vids. My engineer side appreciates the no nonsense vids.
Thanks for your kind words. There is a lot of work going on right now for future episodes. PLUS I have 3 episodes that I shot in the summer/fall that will start port production next month.
Thanks for subbing!
Back yard engineering at its finest. I used to do this on old 4g63 motor mounts before purchasing the "expensive" poly replacements back in the late 90's and early 2000's. it is only a temp/quick fix, but it will work.
Hey blindonejc,
Thanks for your comment.
In the next week or so, I will mount a few cameras under the car and see how it is holding up.
I really don't know what to expect...
Motorvate DIY did you ever check to see how it was holding?
Hey blindonejc,
You must be reading my mind.... I will be shooting that video in the next few days, and it should be on my channel in a few weeks after that. I am really looking forward to seeing how it is or is not holding up :)
What camera and mount did you use to capture this?
Hey Jeremy Cook,
In the spirit of DIY, I drilled two holes in a 3/16" steel bar about 1" by 10" and bolted my trusty GoPro Hero 4. The other end was bolted to an existing bracket for the rear plastic cover. A lot of work was done in post-production to brighten the image and reduce noise.
Wow, what an amazing and clever solution. I hope it lasts. I replaced all my differential bushings with the Z1 bushing kit (g37 sedan). I can tell you that it was not fun/easy to do because of the spare tire compartment.
Hey muasboy,
Thanks for your kind words!
I hope it lasts as well, and if not, it will be a future episode :)
Yes, there is VERY little space to work or to fit a camera.
@@MotorvateDIY 4 years on - how's it holding up?
(Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. With UA-cam it is VERY difficult to find a reply from a comment from 4 years ago)
Anyways, I did bolt a camera under my car in the fall of 2021 and it is holding up well. The video will be used in a upcoming episode, so you will see for your self :)
I love this idea. I had planned to do this with my car but I was thinking of a liquid polyurethane instead. Something like Windo-Weld maybe. I also thought I'd try to clean the cavity first with brake cleaner or something.
Also, I was wondering why you didn't jack up the diff a little bit to estimate where it would be resting had the bushing been in perfect condition. I would think that it's sagging with the ruptured bushing so maybe jacking it up ½ inch maybe would be a good idea until the adhesive has cured and hardened.
Hey Pollo Frito,
Feel free to clean out the cavity, but since it is a cavity, once the epoxy/polyurethane has hardened it can't go anywhere.
If I was to do it again, I would jack up the diff just a little, maybe 1/8" to 1/4", just so the bushing centre is a little higher. Then when everything is hardened, it should be very close to the proper centre.
You don't want to go too high, as this will greatly change the pinion angle of the differential which can create noise/vibration. (At least in theory)
Thanks for you comment!
@@MotorvateDIY Hi Motorvate, in this method, one leaves the car on the ground and just jacks the diff itself 1/8 to 1/4 inch up, correct?
could this be achieved by jacking the car completely off the ground so the wheels are in mid-air? (I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would or would not change the diff relative to it just having the car sit on the ground) I'm guessing this is due to my being a car repair novice
The rear of the diff is supported by a single rubber bushing that fails over time.
Jacking up the diff a little, increases the size of the lower bushing chamber (this is the one the splits and the silicone oil leaks out).
Then injecting the epoxy or polyurethane an letting it cures, should result in a more filled chamber which should make it just a little more firm.
This is great. The proper fix really is for Infiniti not to use these time bomb of bushings. Definitely a design flaw. Not being serviceable is extremely disappointing.
I made the suggestion on myg37 for video for the whitelines. I do think this epoxy fix will be more than sufficient for the purpose it serves. Of course the whiteline bushings would be the most ideal, but so is ease of install and time cost.
Thanks for the great video!
Hey supremeNundftd,
Thanks for the first comment!
I will shoot a follow up video (with better lighting!) in the spring to see how it is holding up.
I wouldn't call it a design "flaw" as it's absolutely intentional. Manufacturers want their cars to be reliable but...they don't want them to have TOO much longevity. Best to think of car design in the "planned obsolescence" category.
Infiniti wanted to charge me $2800 to replace the entire subframe because the bushing was leaking. And then $300 for alignment after replacing the subframe.
not a design flaw this is the way many manufacturers do it
@@blockobutter my bushing leaked on Q50
For those that don't have that epoxy around, look for the jb clearweld 5 minute epoxy! Same nozzle, same stuff, different brand, 5 bucks a tube
Hey xavier wells,
Thanks for the tip!
Literally the only thing I could find!!
with the mix tube at that because everything else is resealable, funny enough it was in the painter/tape area of Walmart beside the gorilla glue because in automotive they only have putty’s that have to be mixed and I wasn’t gonna just get a syringe for 1 time use only😂
i am really looking forward to seeing the video on how to change the rear bushing . thanks for your videos is really helpful
Hey 1SLOWG37,
If luck goes my way, and the epoxy fix doesn't fail, it may be a while until I need to do this.
It is not an easy or quick job.
thanks for you reply , and yes i now everyone telling me is not easy job some take almost a day to fix if you dont have proper tools . is okay it least will see how long epoxy will last
Awesome video so detailed so easy to understand! Thank you!
Thanks Jason,
I was a technical instructor for 14 years, so I like easy to follow steps :)
Trying this tomorrow morning on an E46… will update but if this works it’s a godsend!
Good luck and please let me know how it turns out!
Any Luck? Considering this for a 2005 X3 rear diff bushing, and maybe the transfer box as well...
I used this method until parts came in for new bushing from ZMotorSports, but how does your drive shaft coupler look, mine I think needs replacing. A follow up video would be great!! Thanks for your content
The G37s with the 6 speed manual transmission don't use that rubber coupler.
I think only the rear wheel drive G37 with the 7 speed automatic transmission use it. Last I read, that part is only available with a new driveshaft :(
But one person on my37.com found that the 4th gen supra uses the same part...
Have you tried to fill it up with windshield urethane sealant?
No, but I wish I did. Over the last few years the epoxy has deformed and there is a little more play.
Others have used the windshield urethane sealant, and a far as I know, they have had good luck with it.
Windshield urethane sealent or epoxy ???i have the same problem on Q50 diff bushing
Great quick fix advise mate!
Thanks 👍
I think you have a good solution but I wonder if, overtime, the now more rigid bushing will have a bad impact on the differential causing damage???
I don't think so. Some G37/370z folks use a solid metal bushing to eliminate diff movement to the sub frame.
Thanks for these videos! Very clear helpful and informative
Hey MrDjRaunch,
You are welcome :)
I didn’t the same thing but I used jb steel clay kind and put it inside the diff bushing and it’s real solid I don’t feel my wheel hop like before is jb weld a smart decision I thought it was
That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing it!
Hi, how is this holding up after 6 years?
(Sorry just saw this now! Sometime YT comments just appear from the past)
Very good!
In June 2024, I removed it and put in a Whiteline poly diff bushing.
I've cut open the blown factory bushing, and will show all in a future video.
Amazing work.
Thanks for your kind words... on my car, it has held up quite well.
Truly amazing video. Are you a TV producer/mechanic? Can't imagine a more professional presentation, not to mention the money your idea can save all us G37 owners! The dealer told me yesterday that the bushings only last 6 or 7 years (I am in Las Vegas though) so, gee, $4,000 = $600/yr in bushing maintenance. What a rip. But I now have a $20 fix. Could it maybe be a permanent fix? If the rubber and epoxy last, is it possible the problem won't resurface? Thank you Thank you Thank you for your generous spirit.
Hey Steve Devlan,
Wow... thank you for your VERY kind words. This made my day!
My background is technical training development/delivery, video production and chief grease monkey. :)
If I was to do it again, I would use something other than epoxy... maybe a urethane rubber, but that might be difficult to inject. (there is very little room)
The other option is a one time fix: A poly urethane diff bushing:
www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/244945-whiteline-differential-bushings.html
After 3 years, my epoxy fix seems a little loose. Now that the warm weather is here, I can get under the car and have a look and figure out next steps.
Is this still the best one to buy from the shops or is there a more durable one you found? Thanks
I'm not sure I understand your question.
The video shows a quick and easy way to restore most/all of the stiffness from the diff bushing without replacing it.
If you want to replace it, there are many good options. However, removing the old bushing is not a quick or easy job.
@@MotorvateDIY hello. I'm referring to the liquid you used to fill the bushing. Also can I drive it immediately after I have fill it In?
I used a 5 minute epoxy "LePage Instant Mix Speed Set Epoxy" and let it cure for a few hours, just to be safe.
What ever you decide to use, simply follow the instructions to understand how long it takes to fully cure with you local temperature and humidity.
I am in California I can't find that epoxy you used should I use some jb weld epoxy or something different
You can use anything that can be injected into the bushing.
Many have used a windshield urethane with good results, but it takes much longer to cure.
Thank you for the video. How is it holding up?
Hey Vincent Lu,
It is holding up very well. Here is a link to the update episode:
ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
@@MotorvateDIY how about now?
can you please explain how to inject the epoxy into the cavity of bushing? so first you inject 1/3 of the tube into lower part of bushing, then another 1/3 ot the tube into the lower part of bushing on the other side, and finally last remaining 1/3 goes into outside of bushing?
Hey rsfan010,
Good question.
Inject the entire tube into the lower part of the bushing. Thinking about it now, there is no real need to squirt in 1/3 on the left side, 1/3 on the right side and 1/3 in the middle. Just inject it in the middle and it will settle down to the bottom of the bushing cavity before it starts to set.
Then poke a small hole in the upper part of the bushing and inject the entire tube into it. It might not hurt to have a third epoxy tube to ensure the top is filled.
I hope this explains it better. Good luck!
Do I need to make a cut in the top? I didn’t see a rip on my at the top, only the bottom can I just fill the bottom or do I need to cut the top?
Good question!
I only cut/punctured the top, so the epoxy could use gravity to fill the lower cavity. I wasn't sure how much epoxy I could inject into the bottom and wanted to do what I can to make sure it is mostly filled.
Great video, I Subscribed to see more great tips 👍
Thanks for subbing!
I spend a few hours each day working on future content or editing videos... I'm slow to get videos out but I hope the content is good and unique :)
This was 5 years ago… how’s it doing today???
It's still good!
Last year I bolted a GoPro under my car to check on how it is holding up... and it looks to be the same. No new tears in the rubber bushing and has about the same amount of deflection under full throttle acceleration.
Hi thanks for the advice. In one of the comments (can't find it now) you mentioned if you were to do it again that you would use a black polyurethane that is used to seal windshield. Do you think this would be a much more durable way to do it? Because I'm thinking of doing mine soon but I want to use the most durable product. I live in Australia btw so I hope the product is easily available here whatever you will recommend.
Thanks
I did say that. For the making of the video, I wanted to use something easy to find and low cost, so epoxy was chosen.
The epoxy has held up well, but I think the black polyurethane would be a little better, BUT takes 24+ hours to cure... the epoxy is ready in 5 minutes, which is also nice!
What ever you decide to do, good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY thanks. Once the epoxy is put inside then filled and dried then after about 3 years if I need to do it again does that mean I'll have to remove all the bushing out and replace with new one or will there be gap inside to fill with epoxy again?
As I see it, the epoxy should hold up for a very long time.
I did mine 5 years ago. Late last year (2022), I mounted a GoPro under my car to check to see how the epoxy filled bushing is holding up.
So far, so good!
Down the road, I may replace it with a Whiteline bushing, just to see the before and after difference. BUT for now, it is working well!
What are the symptoms of a bad differential bushing??
When the busing is really bad, there will be a clunk when getting on and off the throttle. The clunk is due to the rubber bushing splitting and allow the center bushing bolt to hit the metal side of the bushing.
When the bushing first splits you might find the car feels for-aft "bouncy" when going on and off the throttle. It is tough to describe, but I hope explained ok.
Thanks for taking the time to post this
Hey frazer9,
You are welcome... It is still going strong after 1 year: ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
Motorvate DIY thank you! I'm in Alberta right now, mine just ruptured. I can heat the garage but I'm worried about the epoxy curing... I can leave the car for about 16 hrs in a heated garage
Motorvate DIY this was quite a bit harder than expected. Pushing the expoxy took an enormous amount of hand strength. I probably used 2/3rd of 2 tubes. Eventually I couldn't push anymore out. Hard to tell if the cavities got completely filled too. Did you find this with yours?
Hey frazer9,
Depending on how much you bend the "mixing tube" it will be more difficult for the epoxy to pass though it. If you bend it too much in one area, it may kink and almost close the tube. I wonder if that happened with yours?
When I did mine, it did take a fair amount of force, but it did move slow and steady.
Worst case, you can have a look in the warmer weather and add more epoxy if you feel it needs more. You can't overfill them :)
Also.... if you used 5 minute epoxy you won't need much more time than that if the garage is at room temperature. Check the back of the epoxy tube to see what it says about how long it takes to cure in cold temperatures.
That sure is clever idea! Now what, what iff we did the same thing with suspension control arms bushings? Especially the ball joint. I have a couple bad control arm bushings on my G37 and you just inspired me to finally fix em with the low budget I live with this year.
hey ahm5514,
Awesome! There really is no harm in trying it with epoxy. If it works you are good to go. If not, well then you need to replace the bushing. Later this week I will be shooting an update video on the diff bushing to see how well it is holding up.
I just subbed to your channel, as another comment said, there are not a lot of G vids on here. you're a gem haha. I'll be waiting to see the follow up vid. and as you said, if it doesn't work well, it shouldn't make it worse either. one day I'll be replacing them anyways.
Hey ahm5514,
Thanks for subbing! If the weather is good on Tuesday, I will be shooting the follow up video then :)
ahm5514 Lol definitely can't do this to ball joints. That's a major component that actual bears some weight on it. This is for dampening parts only.
how long does it take for the epoxy to dry? Living in arizona has made stuff take much longer to dry (rearview mirror fell off, I'm using a temp mirror for a week while I wait)
I left mine for about 1 hour, while I had lunch :)
Hey Frank after you filled the leaking cavities ( top and bottom ) why did you choose not to fill the entire cavity to make it flush with the metal collars? Thanks and I really enjoy your efforts.
The first thought was to try to replace the missing silicon fluid.
As for filling the entire cavity, I wouldn't know what to use that would stick to the outer bushing rubber.
@@MotorvateDIY thx for the reply. Best.
Changed mine to z1 Motorsport solid bushings. It was definitely a nightmare to change out! Should’ve seen this video and saved myself the time and craziness.
As you know, replacing this bushing is not a quick or easy job. BUT since you have, you won't have to worry about doing it again. :)
hi. did you use polyurethane , or solid aluminum? if you used aluminum, was the NVH bad enough to make you wish you'd used the poly?
Hi Motorvate, I did the epoxy fix for the bottom pocket of the differential bushing. The top pocket wasn't ruptured, so does that mean there's still grease in there or did it flow out of the bottom pocket that ruptured?
Hey rocs209,
I am 99% sure that the top pocket and bottom pocket are connected inside the bushing, so it would have all leaked out the bottom.
It did on mine .
Will blown diff bushing cause car to move when shifting into drive?
I don't think so. With a blown diff bushing, it has a little more play and that sort of creates more of a "buffer".
Can i just jack up the rear and do this or do the wheels have to be on the ground?
Hey cooldaddyslick,
Yes, the wheels can be off the ground. Since the rear suspension is independent, the wheels can move without the differential moving.
Good luck!
@ The bottom part of the bushing is the more important one to fill. When you accelerate, the rear of the differential pushes down, so you want the bottom of the bushing filled.
When you let off the gas, the rear of the differential moves up. The upper part of the bushing is now hollow (since the silicon fluid leaked out) and the diff will have a little more movement upward. Is this bad? I don't think so... but if the upper part of the bushing is also filled, the car should have "front / rear bounce" when you are on and off the throttle like when driving in traffic. (If you have an automatic transmission, you might not notice this, but with a manual transmission you will)
@ "Metal Hole?" If you are talking about the upper and lower chamber in the rubbing bushing, filling both is best. BUT the most important one is the bottom, since the back of the differential pushes down when the car accelerates.
@cooldaddyslick Thanks for the update. I think you will be all set :)
How long did you let it dry for after filling ?
That was a few years ago, but I think I let it sit overnight.
Thanks for the response 6 years later lol!
I jammed a tube of sika flex 252 in my 2005 AWD ford territory front bushes
Let it set for a week and is still going strong 😂😂😂😂
Perfect!
Great idea bro! Brilliant !
Hey Matt Jay626,
Thanks for your kind words!
Here is a link to a 1 year later follow up video on this fix:
ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
great video, what epoxy did you use and thank you
I used "LePage LePage Speed Set Instant Mix Epoxy, 14 ml" but I think that is only available in Canada.
Any 5 minute epoxy with the "instant mix" should work.
Something like this: www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/epoxies/loctite_epoxy_instantmix5minute.html
However if I was to do it again, I would some kind of a polyurethane.
Over the last 3 years, the large amount of torque at the differential has compressed the epoxy and there is now more play in the diff bushing.
Any update on how its been holding on? Just ran into this issue with mines
Hey Mike Castro,
Yes!!! Here is the 1 Year Update:
ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
Good fix and get a Bellracing diff brace game over!
Thanks!
I am not interested in ever getting a diff brace. Drive line shock absorption (rubber bushings) is a good think and prevents gears and shafts from breaking.
@@MotorvateDIY wheel hop, broken diff bushing , broken axles, grinding gears, broken other bushings is way worse without support. Hence why ever track Z has them without any adverse effects. Proper diff bushings, diff brace, trams mount for the win. The Z trans gears already have problem with the diff bushing failures. My stock 13 trans went out cuz of this. My 16 track wants to do same but not hard on fast gear changes in stock diff set up vlsd. Like to go 1.5 way, 4.08 final, Z1 diff cover, Bellracing brace, Z1 trans mount, Z1 diff bushings for the win. Night n day out of the corners.
We will have to agree to disagree. If it works for your, great.
I have a 2008 g35 vq35HR the bushing is busted can I fill it how you did and it'll work??
The 07/08 G35 is the *exact* same platform as the G37 (aka V36).... so, yes you can :)
Thank you bro , I live all the The Bahamas I will give this try , did I last or you eventually changed it out
Hey Torvarris Evans,
I love the Bahamas!
Anyways, the epoxy filled bushing is still on the car.
Actually you just gave me an idea.... I will do an "1 Year Later" update episode.
Motorvate DIY I clean my throttle body and now am having p010a code , any recommendation on how to solve that problem
Hey Torvarris Evans,
That is a MAP sensor code and I can't see it having to do anything with cleaning the throttle bodies.
Nissan/Infiniti defines a P010A as:
An excessively low or high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.
Unplug and plug in the connector on the MAP sensor and check your wiring.
I still can't get over the K&N HP gains from just swapping the air filters you get 14whp, that's insane.
Hey sk8punk318,
In the spring I will be going back to the dyno to re-test. This time I will use a brand new Infiniti air filter, a K&N and also dyno it without an air filter. I am working on a Arduino based, 12 bit pressure sensor to data log the pressure difference on either side of the air filter.
Whatever the results are, it will be a future episode.
Motorvate DIY oh man I can't wait for that! Any possible way to show the actual dyno screen off the computer at the shop?
Hey sk8punk318,
Not a problem... I will shoot the dyno screen during and after the runs.
Motorvate DIY awesome thanks man I appreciate it. I don't think your numbers are off I just want to see exactly what the lines look like on the computer screen.
Hey sk8punk318,
Not a problem, I'll shoot it :)
Nice, would you recommend the epoxy or the z1 diff bushing. I want something to help stiffing up the rear end for drag racing.
That is a difficult question to answer as I don't have any experience with the Z1 bushings.
If you want to stiffen up the back of the car, I would think the Z1 diff bushings and the Z1 aluminum subframe bushing may be worth looking into.
BUT keep in mind, when bushings are replaced with firmer ones, then there may not be any "cushion" to absorb the shock and sometimes thing break.
@@MotorvateDIY thank u brother.
where did you get those ramps!!? how big are they
Unfortunately, they are not longer available, but here is an old review:
floorjacked.com/scepter-pro-ramps-review/
Their dimensions are 11.9" wide x 34" long x 8.9" high -AND- lift the car about 6".
Here is an episode from then I did a quick review of them:
ua-cam.com/video/JPZ4ccFXMQg/v-deo.html
To this day, I use them often. On some cars that are too low to get under for an oil change, I just drive them up the ramp. They are quick and easy to use!
I have a g35 with automatic trans ..has a 3rd gear clunk is this the bushing?or trans issue?
As you can guess, it is very difficult to determine a cause from a single sentence: "It clunks in 3rd"... With that said, if it doesn't clunk in the 1-2 shift, I would think it is the transmission...
Can this be applied to 07-08 g35 sedan as well? I heard those cars’ rear differential bushing is not filled with the liquid..
The 07-08 G35 is the same platform as the 09-13 G37 (known as the V36) so I think they use the same liquid filled bushing. Also, this page on Z1 Motorsports website (www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-urethane-rear-differential-bushing-set-p-10356.html) also mentions this.
So I do believe you can fill the empty bushing cavity with epoxy or something else that cures fairly firm.
@@MotorvateDIY thank you for the reply! Do you think is it safe to cure the rear differential bushing while jacking up only one side of the car?
Yes you can... I can't see that making any noticeable difference.
Why do they not just use a solid metal one from the factory? Is there a reason it has to be plastic or rubber?
Hey Austin Murphy,
Excellent question!
A rubber bushing on the differential, subframe or the engine reduce stress from engine torque and prevents damaging other components during gear or throttle changes as it allows a little "cushion".
Would this method work on a 2006 nissan pathfinder? Rear diff bushings are completely shot.. just not sure if they're silicone-filled like on your g37
Great question! but I don't know anything about the Pathfinder.
If the bushings is shot/torn and you see something that had dripped from it, then it did have a fluid filled section.
If the bushing is shot, you have nothing to loose and try to poke a small hole in the top or bottom. If it is a solid bushing, you won't be able to.
BUT if it has a chamber, then you would poke through the thin rubber skin and now can try to fill it with something like epoxy or a polyurethane .
I have 2011 G37 and the silicone area drips fluid. Is it critical to get it fixed ASAP?
No urgent rush... Without the fluid the rubber bushing will slowly start to tear depending on how heavy you are on the throttle.
But the sooner you do it, the better. :)
is that much movement in the subframe normal? or could that be caused from the car being driven on the ruptured bushing?
Totally normal... The more the sub frame moves on the bushings, the easier it is on the transmission and driveshaft. The main goal of the subframe (and diff bushing) is to absorb shock.
Does this still hold up well? Or did you refilled with Epoxy again? Or replace the diff bushing?
Last fall, I bolted a camera under my car and went for a drive...
I am happy to report it still is holding up. I was going to replace the bushing, but so far it is doing good.
@@MotorvateDIY thank you for the reply! I’m also going to do the same fix to mine.
Great... good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY How long did you wait before you start to drive after applying the epoxy?
Here is about -5 Celsius degrees, and is it okay to proceed this fix during the cold temperature?
Just what I needed. Don't have the money or time to fix this right now and the dealership is getting 1400 dollars out of me over my dead body :) If this can get me by for 6 months to a year that would help a ton. The annoying thing is I bought the car last year and had them inspect the car before finalizing the purchase and this was not included in what is wrong with the car but the power delivery felt 'slushy' since I first got it (I assumed maybe its just because its a luxury car) and suspect it was busted this whole time.
The video/repair was done in late 2017 and it is still holding up just fine.
Last fall, I mounted a GoPro under my G37 to check the bushing and it was still good... so I think you will get 6+ months without any problems :)
@@MotorvateDIY Wow thats even better than I could imagine. Thanks for the update.
Do you think Permatex silicone rtv would work?
As a guess.... yes.
If you go that route, please let me know how it turns out.
Hey Dave, how has this held up for you so far?
Three years in and many passes down the drag strip hasn't been good to it.
The epoxy is holing up well, but the rubber bushing has a tear and there is more bushing movement. I think if I would have used more epoxy it would up held up better, but that is just a guess.
In the next few weeks, I will be putting in the Whiteline bushing I purchased 3+ years ago.
@@MotorvateDIY awesome thanks for the update!
I paid a lot more the kicker was that it didn't need it. Apparently in 2013 the previous owner took it to infinity and they replaced the whole subframe. I bought the bushings I had my mechanic put it in I called them later and he was like I don't even know why you did this it didn't need it. Turned out the black line of death was from the previous bushing that was in there. Now the car has poly and subframe sleeves so it isn't going anywhere
Hey Taelor Watson,
Oh wow....thanks for sharing your story!
At least you don't have to worry about this again :)
Awesome video, great quality too! Does the ruptured bushing make knocking sound i can hear in the video? Mine does the same noise from the rear left side. I was wandering if it is the rear left shock, but now after watching your video it realy might be the bushing. Thank you!
Hey Eugene Tooms,
Thanks for the comment on the quality of the video.
My ruptured bushing didn't make any sounds that I could hear from the driver's seat. The sound in the video may be from the GoPro camera knocking against the camera enclosure.
If the noise is from the left rear side, I would check your inner and outer CV joints for excessive play.
Thank you very much for the reply and great work on the videos, which are really needed as G37 started having many issues right after the warranty expired. Mine has 69K and so far read diff replacement (covered by powertrain warranty), starter replacement ($900 out of pocket), Sway bar links replacement (did myself, $100 parts)
Hey Eugene Tooms,
Sorry to hear of your troubles...
If you have AWD the starter is very difficult to remove.
Rear wheel drive is much easier and can be removed and replaced about an hour.
Mine is making a funny noise and I will be removing and re-greasing it in the spring.
Yeah, mine is G37x. My starter had died without any warnings, and I stuck in a parking lot on Sunday with my take-out food. But using an old trick, just tapping the starter I was able to start the car again. I wanted to fix myself as the part costs only $150 from junkyard but at the time needed my car and could not wait weekend to fix it.
Did you car make a click and that was all?
Mine did as well. I turned out to be a corroded washer on the starter. 60 minutes later and some 80 grit emery cloth and it was fixed. Seems to be a common issue. (yes, this will be a future episode)
Is it absolutely critical to change this bushing if it's ruptured or is it purely a matter of ride quality?
Hey Terry1212,
The bushing has no influence on ride quality, since it is not between the wheels suspension and the body.
Once the bushing is ruptured and torn, over time it will continue to tear the rubber. This is most noticeable when on and off the throttle (like when in stop and go traffic) and the car will seem to have more play in the drive line. (because it does)
Over the long term the bushing will continue to tear it self apart and start to rattle once the rear differential mounting stud starts to hit the metal edges of the bushing. This results in the rear of the differential being able to move up a 1/2" and down 1/2" depending on throttle position.
If you drive the car very easy, you might not notice anything different. BUT also if you always drove the car easy, the bushing most likely wouldn't rupture.
Mine ruptured after the first time I took the car to the drag strip in 2016, based on the drip marks on the diff cover.
If the rubber bushing is not too beat up, you can inject epoxy and be done. Or wait until it is completely worn out and replace it with a aftermarket diff bushing kit then.
In the spring of 2020, I will shoot a short video of the diff and see how well it is holding up after 2 years :)
Can’t find the exact epoxy ... any other recommendations
Hey Albert Caval,
Any 5 minute epoxy with some type of "mixing stick" should work...
Something like "Loctite® Epoxy Instant Mix™ 5 Minute" that can be found on amazon: www.amazon.com/s?k=Loctite%C2%AE+Epoxy+Instant+Mix%E2%84%A2+5+Minute&ref=nb_sb_noss
Good luck!
Would this modification give any complications if you eventually wanted to replace the bushing?
Hey Andy Nguyen,
Nope... When the bushing is replaced, most use a sawzall to cut out the inside, then cut the outer metal lip.
That is the best part about doing this, there is no down side. If it doesn't work, then you cut our the bushing.... if it does work in 20 minutes you are done.
Mine is now 3 years old and I will be bolting the camera under the car for a 3 year update episode :)
@@MotorvateDIY Nice find sir! I will use this when the time comes necessary
Hi motorvite,what is the best brand epoxy???i want to buy epoxy for my leaked bushing Q50 awd
Any epoxy should work well... If I was to do this again, I would try to find a black "Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive" It should be more durable and handle the heat of the differential in hot conditions.
what is a good epoxy for US people? i cant find that brand on amazon in usa
Hey The Fulcrum,
Something like "Loctite® Epoxy Instant Mix™ 5 Minute" should work great. It can be purchased at you local hardware store or amazon: www.amazon.com/s?k=Loctite%C2%AE+Epoxy+Instant+Mix%E2%84%A2+5+Minute&ref=nb_sb_noss
How long will this fix last. Any idea?
I'm on my 6th year and so far so good!
@@MotorvateDIY my crosstrek rear dif bushing also started leaking . I think I'm going to try this
Wow,my rear diff bushing leaked:( Q50 awd …today i will buy epoxy :)) thanks for video
Sorry to hear that! I hope the epoxy fix works as good for you as it did for me. :)
This is pretty cool tbh lol. Can’t really afford some new bushings around since I need a new clutch & flywheel.. definitely will try this out soon! Btw my feedback from my differential is pretty noticeable with the clunking going through each gear making a “tinnnnk” noise haha.
Hey Austinn Keomany,
Wow, I guess your rear diff bushing is in much worse condition than mine was. I didn't have any clunking/tinking sounds.
Good luck and I hope your bushing is not too far gone for this to work.
Motorvate DIY yes sir, will let you know how it goes!
Do you think it would be beneficial to take the weight off the bushing by putting a jack under the differential before squirting in the epoxy?
Also, does the top chamber need to be filled with epoxy even if it's not ruptured? Did it have any silicone in it when you popped it?
Hey mjseltzer22,
I think lifting the diff a little (about 1/8") before adding the epoxy is a great idea!
It would take the weight of the differential off the bushing, and allow the inner bushing to be position in a more central location.
I think the rear part of my diff might be slighty lower than stock. I will have a closer look in the spring.
Also, I suspect this would reduce the diff bushing movement a little more.
Almost forgot... The top and bottom chambers are connected inside the bushing, so when the lower one ruptured, all the silicone fluid leaked out. It was totally empty when I poked in the screwdriver to make a small hole, to inject the epoxy.
Motorvate DIY considering the chambers are connected, i think if i were to do this I'd take the weight off the diff, puncture the top chamber, then pump polyurethane construction adhesive in with a caulk gun until it started squeezing out the crack in the bottom.
Hey mjseltzer22,
That sounds like a good plan. Please let me know if it works out.
@@mjseltzer22 yep Did you try this?
So how its holding i filled mine with polyurethane and iam waiting after 2 days ill drive i only got knock once in reverse so if your fix is holding ill use it
Hey Sroor9001,
Well.... to find out, have a look here :)
1 Year Later… $20 Differential Bushing Fix: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.33
ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
Hi As I am from Canada I was wondering how expensive shipping from z1 is? And if anyone else has any other websites with cheaper shipping to Canada please let me know. Thanks looking forward to hearing back from you
Hey Meap HD,
When I purchased my Stillen cat back exhaust in 2016, I used "Whitehead Performance" (whiteheadperformance.com/)
Their prices were a little cheaper than buying from the US.
I'm soooooo trying this on my 2015 is350 f sport.
Great!
Some have used butyl windshield adhesive instead of epoxy and have had good results.
Please let me know how you make out. :)
Hows the bushing holding up? I noticed my bushing is ruptured when I was changing out the rear differential fluid. Would love to hear how your fix is going so far!
Hey Daniel P,
It still "feels" firm when accelerating, however I plan to mount a camera under the car and see how it looks/acts in the next few weeks.
This crazy cold spring has kept me out of my garage, but it is now warming up :)
Motorvate DIY I came just to ask for the update and saw your week plans. Any ETA on the update? Appreciate it!
Hey supremeNundftd,
I have shot the video and had a quick look...
It looks to be holding up well and looks the same as last year.
When I edit the follow up episode, I will have a side by side comparison which should help highlight any small differences.
That episode is second on my "to do" list and I hope to out in a few weeks.
Hey motorvate do you need to worry about the front differential bushings? What is your take on repair for those, i know they should last longer.
Hey victor wu,
I don't have any first hand experience with the AWD G37s, but I am 99% sure the front diff bolts to the side of the engine and as a result, there are no front diff bushings. It is indirectly supported by the engine mounts.
Since the AWD system on the G37 only sends power to the front when the rear slips, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Just change the diff oil every 4-5 years and it should be trouble free.
Thank you for the response : ) what i was referring to are the front differential bushings right behind the differential itself. For example this 370z how to video at 8:20 shows the bushing.
m.ua-cam.com/video/PZZA1bGpa9I/v-deo.html
Ive heard these bushings fail as well but not as fast, just wondering what your thoughts on these are, since it may be a concern if they are made of the same material. If they dont exist on the g37 then nevermind haha!
Anyways big fan of your videos!!, im actually going to pick up some epoxy tomorrow and try this method out!
Hey victor wu,
Ahhh... I understand now.
I don't think the front diff bushing on the rear differential "wear out". Since they are solid rubber, they should last a very long time.
Okay awesome thank you! I was also wondering how you knew how much epoxy to put in top and bottom chambers. Would it be safe to put more until you see it flow out o.0?
Hey victor wu,
I put used two 14 ml tubes of epoxy. One for the top and one for the bottom.
If you are using something else, put in as much as you can and the extra will drip out.
Good luck!
Can you update on how this repair is holding up ?
Hey bartman22x1,
You wish is my command :)
The 1 year update video has been shot and is being edited right now. It should be out in a few days.
@@MotorvateDIY please link when done I'm in the same situation and wanting to try this
Motorvate DIY ah come on just tell us if it's still good? I wanna do mine tomorrow instead of waiting for a video update lol
Thecrazyone1,
You bet!
Hey hostilityy,
From what I see when editing the video, it look no different that when I first injected the the epoxy a year ago.
great vid, gonna check my 370z if its got the same issue
Hey Edumacation95,
Good luck. It is very easy to tell and now you have a possible quick fix.
I think the rubber cracks due to age and hard use.
Awesome video! I will keep this in mind when my diff bushing gives out ha! Quick question which ramps were those featured in this video?
Hwy Rixhz34,
Thanks for your kind words!
Those ramps are the "Scepter Pro Ramp" and often go on sale at Canadian Tire for under $40.
They are also on Amazon.com for $50.
Here is a short review of how I used 4 ramps to get under the car quickly:
ua-cam.com/video/JPZ4ccFXMQg/v-deo.html
I got the Sceptre ramps from Northern Tool in the U.S.
Hey Wayne Warnock,
Thanks for the help!
Of course. I appreciate the time you take to make these videos - helps me when servicing my G37s too!
Do I have to clean up the place before apply epoxy? Or no matter?
Hey Esteban Fernández,
There is no need to clean up anything. We are using the epoxy to fill the empty cavity where the silicon fluid was. It doesn't need to stick to anything, it just needs to harden inside the bushing.
So if left for a while, does this harm the health of the car or the drivability?
Hey Block o Butter,
Not really. Once the bushing no longer has the silicone fluid, it will have more up and down movement.
Over time, this will start to tear the left and right side of the bushing, due to the additional up/down movement every time the vehicle is accelerated.
Worst case, the rubber bushing is completely torn away from outer part and you might hear a metal on metal clank or bang as the inner metal bushing ring, hits the outer metal bushing ring. At this point, it must be replaced before the metal bolt that does into the rear differential is damaged or breaks.
Now, if you inject something (like epoxy) into the empty cavity of the diff bushing (top and bottom) , the bushing should last at least a few years.
I did mine 3 years ago, and will be bolting a camera under the car to see how it is holding up in a future episode.
@@MotorvateDIY Awesome. Will be following the video to do my own. Looking forward to that update video!
@@MotorvateDIY Ok. So I injected some epoxy in the differential bushing and alot of bushing fluid came out, including some epoxy mixed with the original fluid. Is that normal? Perhaps the bushing was already filled and not that much has leaked out. Also, did you put some epoxy on the outside of the rubber to seal up the hole you made with the screwdriver? I barely used half of the tube and fluids leaked out.
Hey Block o Butter,
It looks like you caught the ruptured bushing quick as not all of the fluid had leaked out.
In your case, since some fluid was still inside, the epoxy pushed some of it out and mixed with some of it.
Just do your best to fill the upper and lower cavity with epoxy and you should be good :)
@@MotorvateDIY Great. Actually, the Infiniti dealership caught it first and wanted to charge $2300 USD (around 3,000 CAD) to replace the entire subframe just for the bushing. I ran as fast as possible and thank goodness I found this video.
did you remove your spare tire compartment or did you just work around it?
Hey Ryan Jermain,
I just worked around it. There is VERY little space, but just enough to get in there. :)
@@MotorvateDIY okay thanks man i just got my epoxy and im gonna try to do it. It cant make the blown bushing any worse lmfao
@@ryanjermain4185 Very true! Good luck
Just did this. How long should I let it cure before driving?
Hey Dennis Bird,
Good question! The "5 minute epoxy" means that it "sets" in 5 minutes and is no longer sticky to the touch. The full cure time is longer and you should look at the technical data sheet for the epoxy you used.
If you used the epoxy I did, let it sit for an hour you should be good.
I think I let mine site for 30 minutes, before I went on a test drive.
@@MotorvateDIY Thanks! I used the same epoxy you did. Going to let it sit 6 hours.
@@MotorvateDIY Update: Worked great. I haven't given it full throttle yet but I could tell the difference as soon as I backed out of my parking space this morning. My car is an automatic and the shifting was so much smoother. Thanks again for doing this.
Hey Dennis Bird,
That's great news! Thanks for the update :)
What kind of epoxy does it have to be??????
5 minute... or anything else you can get your hands on that mixes in the tube.
Whats the reason you did not use loctite epoxy
Hey Freddy Alaniz,
Good question. Any epoxy will work as long as you can mix it and inject it into the epoxy.
The is VERY little room to work and I needed to use the syringe and have it mix in the extension. When I went to the store, what I used was the only option that would work.
Can you do a video with. The z1 bushing
Hey Don Bremmer,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you...sometime the comments get buried and I miss the odd one.
I will be shooting an update video on the epoxy fix this week, and if it is not working when I replace the bushing and make an episode :)
Love to see that video and also looking forward to seeing all of your future videos. Mostly kids in early 20s posting videos about this type of car(s) and their videos aren't well put together like yours.
Hey Brian Tran,
Thanks for your kind words, I appreciate it!
It would be awesome to see a vid on driveshaft(maybe you call it a prop shaft) swapping. since we G owners got a 2 piece driveshaft and the 370Z has a lighter one piece.
Hey sk8punk318,
Sorry, but there are no plans for replacing the G37s driveshaft.
As I see it, any gains would be small and the increase in noise/vibration would not be wanted.
Look at this post: www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/273804-sedans-dss-one-piece-driveshaft.html#post4076635
Motorvate DIY I just thought about it cuz the Z's come with a 1 piece so I didn't know if it might make any decent difference. I get so many different answers to this question, but...what is the 0-60 on a 2011 G37S 7AT coupe? Or I guess basically any coupe S 7speed auto...yeah I know it's an auto.
Hey sk8punk318,
The 7AT sedans and coups take mid to low 5 seconds to reach 60 mph. The gearing of the 7AT is better for acceleration in the first 3 gears than the 6MT.
I wonder how poly-urethane would work, as many people inject it into motor mount cavities. Maybe I'll have to try since I do auto glass and have urethane on hand :)
Hey Marshall Volkmann,
Funny that you mentioned poly-urethane.... That was my first thought, but it is not easy for everyone to get, so I thought I would try 5 minute epoxy.
I would expect poly-urethane to work well, but may take a many hours to cure....
My though was polyurethane construction adhesive in a caulk gun
Hey mjseltzer22,
That should work well, but as you will see there is VERY little room, maybe 4-5 inches between the spare tire well and the subframe.
I don't know if the caulking gun would fit in.
Please let me know how you make out and what you did to get it to fit.
@@MotorvateDIY Just get fish tank air line hosing and attach it to the tip. I do this on my shop vac to clean out tight engine space, spark plugs wells etc.
Hey KeTO BeasT84,
That's a good idea, thanks for sharing :)
Plz confirm this is good for 2010 g37 sedan rwd
The 2010 G37 is the same as the 2011 shown in the video. You are good to go!
Hello
I am french and I have an infiniti g37 of 2009
will you have websites on accessories for infiniti, because we in France it is difficult to find
thank you
cordially
hey Bastien lormescity,
I am not sure I can help... Here is the website for Infiniti accessories in the US:
parts.infinitiusa.com/infinitiParts/index.cfm?action=accessories
Maybe you can find the part number you are looking for and then search ebay for them?
Other than that, I don't know how I can help.
Good luck!
Brilliant man thank you!
Hey jpopp999,
I hope it works for you as well as it has for me :)
After one year, it is still holding up well:
1 Year Later… $20 Differential Bushing Fix: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.33
ua-cam.com/video/9CIV4Dm5jfE/v-deo.html
You can get the epoxy in different strengths per sq in. Faster the setup higher the strength, to a point. I would use some sikaflex on the face it'ssoftbut never comes off ever get it from home depot it turns to strong rubber. Epoxy 5,000 per sq in or better inside.
Good youtube video. I have this rattling on starts with my 350z 2006. I hope it works for me.
Hey Denny Christensen,
With the blown bushing, I didn't have a rattle. It was just a little "bouncy" when on/off the throttle.
You might want to check all the heat shields on your exhaust. Over time, the shield brackets corrode and can vibrate at specific engine RPM.
When you say it rattles on "starts" is that when the engine starts, or when you start to move?
Also is your transmission manual or automatic?
Motorvate DIY when i say start i meant driving. I'll still hear it up to about 2.75 rpm in 1st to 2nd gear and at times 2nd to 3rd gear. My car only has 47,000 on a 2006 and has a pretty new clutch and stock bumper to bumper. Only tires and after market brakes installed. Have you had this problem. Also driving freeways at 60 mph and up i get kinda howling sound like a bearing from on of the wheels
Hey Denny Christensen,
I think you are describing the normal "gear whine" sound the 6 speed manual transmission makes.
As for the highway sound, jack up the car to get he wheels off the ground. Then use your hand to turn each wheel and see how smooth each wheel turns.
Does the highway howl change when turning left or right? Turning will change the load on the wheel bearing, and if they are worn, the sound will also change.
The howling sound doesn't Not change like a bad wheel bearing. More important my new friend, the sound from the transmission area is only when clutch it full released and on the throttle around 2.5+ rpm
Sounds as if I'm starting in to high of gear bogging rattle like a a rattle snake x10. Lol,
I am pretty mechanically inclined building commercial planes. But this has me worried a little.
I love my z so much and it's been 3 weeks and 2 days since I bought mine I'm buying another one 2004 350z $10.500
Red convertible automatic with only 9,800miles on it. It wasn't even on the market yet a friend hooked me up with a friend deal. Not even 10k on it lol
Hey Denny Christensen,
Hmmm I really don't know.
Two things come to mind:
(1) Our 6 speed manual transmission are a little "clunky" when spinning, so the noise could be normal.
(2) The flywheel on the VQ37 is a dual mass flywheel and sometimes the inner and outer masses can rattle.
Could you try to record a short video?
How am I able to tell if I have a ruptured bushing?
Hey Daniel,
It drips onto the differential cover, subframe and exhaust: ua-cam.com/video/fXYdemPSu2s/v-deo.html
Awesome thank you for the quick reply! You earned yourself a new subscriber love your videos! :)
Hey Daniel P,
Thank you, thank you!
Great stuff ty
Glad you enjoyed it