Hydrocracked vs PAO Synthetic Motor Oil
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- Опубліковано 25 вер 2010
- Both Group 3 hydrocracked oils and Group 4 PAO oils are referred to as synthetic in the marketplace. There is a difference in both the way these two oils are produced and in the quality of their performance in an engine.
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So Amsoil XL is really Amsoil's Castrol of their oil lineup!
sludge- yes saw that in the 70's and early 80's. Now my engines are sludge free even with only group 3.
Yes! The group 4 Amsoil Signature series is one of the best oils out there!
100% synthetic stable, stronger and offers 3 or 4 times more protection than other '' full'' synthetic
In Germany you can't name HC oil a full synthetic, so we can check if oil on their market is "vollsynthetisch" or "synthese technologie". For examples check badges on LM Synthoil High Tech 5W40 and LM Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40. They look very similar, but only is named "vollsynthetisch".
Thanks that's about the most detailed information about this I've been able to find. Much appreciated.
Hi Dan Congratulations your time has been well spent, others and i have just learned do much from you. Happy New Tear!
This guy is on the money start to finish.
Joe,
Your post is a little confusing and incorrect as written. Grp III Hydro-cracked synthetic is certainly good for 7,500 miles (Amsoil XL for 10,000 miles) but they are officially rated for 6 months not 1 year. The API sets the MINIMUM standard for oils to be rated SN, SM etc. The API doesn't care what the base-stock is just the requirements for the classification. You are right the cheapest of the oils has to meet the minimum spec to carry the API rating.
I have read where many NASCAR teams are now building there engines at closer tolerances than the norm and running the thin XL oils to create more power and sustain engine life.
Currently using a group 3 oil. I may try your PAO based oil next change.
one of the best oils you can get is the penrite 10 tenths racing . running it in my ls motor.
Negative. Red Line doesn't have "dealers" in the way Amsoil does, Red Line requires a show room, a display, and advertisement. Trust me, I looked into it. I do not sell Red Line products, I am in no way associated with Red Line on any level. I AM an Amsoil dealer however, I just appreciate certain technical benefits of POE based oil like Red Line in certain high demand applications. My DD gets Amsoil AZO for extended drains, my "race car" gets Red Line street oil. Dealers like you...
Thank you very much for this excellent explanation. Now, I am about to change my oil in a couple of days I've been using Shell Helix 10W40 partial synthetic oil.
Last month though I bought Liqui Moly 10W40 Hydro Crack oil, just for the heck of it I want to try it in my 80.000 miles Honda civic MB3 engine.
Would it run past my main and rod bearings? Or has it the same consistency as the Shell Helix only cleaner? I would very much appreciate your help.
Both oils you listed are 10W-40 viscosity so the flow characteristics should be similar. 10W-40 may be a little thicker than you need for your Honda. Unless you have a consumption problem a 10W-30 might be the better choice. Go to my website, TheLubePage and request some info and I will send you some info on Amsoil for your Honda.
ok thanks so i go by the cap or the manual as it states i can use 520- 530or 1030 iin the book it does show 10/30 giveing better summer protection over the 5/20
Amsoil is a small blending company. they have no refineries of their own. So where do they get their pao base stocks...Exxon Mobil the largest producer of synthetic base stock in the world. They get their grp 3 from petro Canada and Shell. They get their add packs from luberasol.
I USED amsoil AND redline in my 2003 10w40 and then when auto parts store stocked AMSOIL 5w40 at around 120.000 mile to 250.000 miles never killed vw passa 1.8 t replaced timebelt 3 time and the coils 100.000 times I now use AMSOIL 5w40 euro in 2016 vw GOLF 1.8tsi 90.000 miles gdi and the valves are spotless
You can thank Castrol for getting their group 3 oil to be called synthetic!
I wanna switch to SSO 0w20 but ive seen they reformulated and im worried the base oil isnt comprised of mostly pao like it used to be
XOM slide shows indicate that they do still use Group V components in their oils, but rather than a polyol ester or diester they are using alkylated naphthalene (AN's) as a polar/soluble correction fluid. They have some of the desirable traits of the esters, but not all, and not to the same degree. ANs are much cheaper than esters.
Very clear and honest explanation , but personally I can’t keep the oil inside my engine more than three months or 3000 miles, maybe because fuel dilution phobia or viscosity break down. And believe it or not all people I know do the same.... I trust your oil but 25 k miles or full year is a risky number and unnecessary . But to increase the protection yes we all agree with that.
Im with you bro
With proper oil analysis, this becomes a non issue. The oil that had to be changed at 3k miles was group 1-2 type oil. Technology has changed. You really can go 25000 miles! Yes its hard to believe!
25k?! I don’t believe this bs sales hype
@geonerd Agreed, Red Line Synthetic Oil Corp has been producing PE polyol ester (POE - group V) base stock street and race oils for YEARS. Red Line admits to using PAO (group IV) in their oils to keep seal swell down since POE is such a highly polar lubricant with inherent solubility and seal swelling characteristics, but POE is their primary base stock.
I have use every oil preferred to synthetic. Once I use AMSOIL I'm completely satisfied. So to know 4 liters every year from race oil 10w30
Comes in Greece for me.
Keep the same quality and I don't want any other brands.
AMSOIL. Thanks.
sotiris athanasakis you don’t know Torco...keep studying
Amsoil is the way to go!
Most of the newer cars are using 0W-20 or 5W-20 weight oils. It flows well at cold startup, to reduce startup wear, and is more efficient than 30 weight oils.
5w20 in turbocharged petrol engines sounds like a bad combo since manufacturers have gotten lazy with oil rings and valve seals but what do I know... modern engines guzzle oil like it's nothing
i made a mistake of buying the castrol power rs tts 2 stroke oil full synthetic but i found out castrol is nothing more than a highly refined crude oil or grade 3 oils. now im in the urge of selling it and possibly buying the maxima bio 2t oil instead unless this castrol oil is not that bad.
Excellent video and made it all very clear. Recently Shell has moved to pure plus technology which from the advert seems like a grade 4 oil and so does Castro edge. So have other manufacturers finally caught up with Mobil and Amsoil?
Vignesh N.Y no they haven’t. Not one of those manufacturers is selling you group 4 pao base stock oil
@@carloscruz7317 They can not make oil better tha PAO
@@jesusfabian861They can, as Polyolesters.
Thank you for speaking plain o’english so non enthusiasts can understand. I agree with everything you said. I personally use torco sr-5 since it’s a group IV/V base oil blend. So many people are fooled by snake advertisements that it boggles my mind. Oil, tires and battery are the three I never skimp on. Continue to help people make educated decisions in their purchases. I believe in buying with a purpose being served, not cost. There is so much fake out there it’s hard to decipher the truth. Numbers never lie though. Unfortunately most people would rather be wrong in a group then right by themselves. Can you tell us what group base oil is used in your synthetic motor oil, please? I would be ecstatic to see a comparison between your oil, Torco, and Motul.
Amsoil Signature Series oils are PAO and Ester basestocks. Several other oils are PAO but I will not try to list them product by product. Amsoil XL and OE oils are Group III synthetic. As you can see in the Amsoil XL and OE the recommendations are for shorter drain intervals and they cost less than the Signature Series.
XL is now 12,000 miles or one year
Amsoil and Redline are both PAO/Ester blends. Hence group IV, and pure synthetic.
no they are not...Amsoil Signature Series is the the only Group 4 based oil they make
Redline POE is classified as a Grp 5.
Outdated. AMSOIL now has three tiers of motor oil. The Signature Series oil is what you refer to as the "original AMSOIL" and is good for up to 25,000 miles and one year. Their XL tier is a 12,000 mile, one year motor oil. It is API certified. Signature Series is not API certified. Their third tier is OE oil. This is your OEM grade motor oil and is rated for whatever is stated in your owner's manual. OE is also API certified.
You can always change oil often and in normal use scenarios you should be fine. You can also use a superior synthetic and change your oil at much longer intervals and save money and time and have greater protection in the process. If you change petroleum oil every 4,000 miles and change Amsoil every 20,000 miles you will save money. If your good quality petroleum oil cost 3.50 a quart and the Amsoil cost 12.00 a quart then you will do 5 petroleum oil changes to the 1 Amsoil change. This works out to 17.50 for the (5 qts) petroleum and 60.00 for (5 qts) Amsoil. If you use an Amsoil filter for 18.00 vs regular filter for 6.00 you will total of 23.00 for petroleum change and 78.00 for Amsoil. For the 20,000 miles you will do 5 petroleum oil changes for a total of 115.00. You will do 1 Amsoil oil change for 78.00. Total savings 37.00 for 20,000 miles. The better fuel mileage and protection is FREE.
Hi Dan. That is assuming the person changes his own oil. Dont forget that most folks take their cars to a mechanic like myself. The expenses add up a pretty penny when that happens. But thats still not the only way you save. The mpg goes up because of the added lubrication so your gas bill comes down. The power transferred to the wheels is also increased especially with the amsoil ss atf. And if you intend on keeping your car forever, you will probably never need to buy another car again due to the increase in its longevity. So yup......a heck of a lot of savings! Ive watched all your vids Dan.......thank you for all the work you do to bring this information to us.👍
...I'll revise that statement and say Motul 300V is on a similar playing field, Signature Series is not. Amsoil Dominator could possibly be, but it's unlikely.
I just don't understand why Amsoil continues to promote Group III oils when they know Group IVs and Group Vs are far superior. 😒
Please explain Dan, and great video presentation explaining the differences to those who dont know and want to learn.
You are right, PAO Group IV and Ester Group V are superior basestocks. However, using Severely Hydro-cracked Group III oils properly formulated with quality additives will make a high quality lubricating oil. The key is using only a SEVERELY Hydro-cracked basestock. Amsoil limits the Group III oils to 12,000 mile drain for XL and Mfg recs for OE oils. Unfortunately, many oils labeled Full Synthetic are not even Hydro-cracked but only Hydro-treated. I have a complete article on this in my website www.TheLubepage.com
Grp 3 allows for a little lower price with solid chemistry level for good performance ...better than quite a few oils.
@@mikeschlup5279 Yeah but Group 4 is still a true Man Made bade stock though where Group 3 is not.
And so therefore that is no reason to compromise.
Group 3 is cheaper sure but why compromise on performance and oil life just to save a few bucks??
I don't do that. I always use Group IV PAO Amsoil Signature Series because it's the obvious choice for superior oil life and superior performance.
The whole point of Amsoil SS besides the performance advantage is so you can extend the drain intervals to 25,000 Miles or 1 year whichever comes first.
That in turn saves you so much more money when compared to the use of a group 3 motor oil.
Group 3 oils do NOT have a one year or 25,000 mile service life like Amsoil SS does.
So again having only 1 oil change a year for me is a Godsend.
But got what you were saying.
Amsoil is the only true 100% synthetic oil period. Only company to make a Group V oil. All other companies only go as high as a Group III and Mobil 1 may touch the Group IV area. Just for note Amsoil Signature series is the only 100% True Synthetic oil. The OE and XL series are Group III Hydrocracked oils hence the lower price.
JayzBeerz motul also has a 100% synthetic oil. A 5w 30
Motul makes 100% synthetic too
Wrong!! Amsoil is not the only one.
There are a few others who make Group IV and or Group V 100% Synthetics.
Like for example:
SynLube Lube4Life uses a Base IV and Base V together.
And with their very specific additive package has Amsoil beaten in the drain interval category by a length as great as the pacific ocean.
150,000 Miles or 15 Years, whichever comes first.
Synlube.com
Sorry Amsoil. Yea your SS produt is good. But SynLube is superior now.
@@extremedrivr They do not make my gear lube, or oil viscosity so what is it good for?
Not true! Redline oil uses group4 and 5
Paper filter buckled and collapsed and element end caps were completly disintegrated on my Toyota Sienna. It had 7000 miles with Amsoil XL on a cartridge type filter not can. It was cellulose combine with glass. I think the bypass valve was open for the last 3000 miles. I changed the filter and oil which was moderatly brown. Now I paid a little extra and bought a synthetic filter with mesh wire backing. This is a danger which should be known. When doing extended drain cycles 7k to 11k... PLEASE use wire meshed reinforced filters if you dont have a can filter. Cellulose wont work past 5500k. i know this because i use to change every 5500 k and filter looked in shape. Now going towards full drain life of Amsoil XL I know. This experience has changed my mind completly. Just changed my Volvo Turbo same brand filter and dropin type. End caps on filter element were loose at 6k no buckling or collapse yet.👍😥
Were the filters definitely the same length? One thing I always do even with supposedly identical mopar filters is set them next to eachother to check how long each filter is. A shorter one won't filter period. Not sure why you think one bypassed for 3 thousand but not in the beginning
Good point. I buy filters when on sale in packs. The volvo and toyota are same brand and type but diffrent model. When i saw the difference is in the same car. I was changing at 4-5k and filter looked fine kept shape. When i went over 7k with my next change on same car. The filter failed😕. What im trying to say is...if u go 20k extended drain make sure your filter can take abuse. Or swap out cheap filters every about every 5k.
Sorry I misunderstood... NEVER take filter past 5k Miles ;)
A cheap one, i havent tested a quality full synthetic element with wire backing yet at full 25k drain interval because im chicken 😲
Even though I know the oil doesn't go bad, I won't change my oil in 25k intervals, cuz how can the oil deal with the contamination and carbon that is washed off and the tiny volume of gasoline melting into the oil?
If a oil make try to achieve such a long interval, they must have decreased the cleaning ability, except the case that the car burns oil a lot so that the contamination and carbon will be burn out, like German cars.
EXACTLY why I’m skeptical of Amsoil! This BS 25K claim
Fifth question to your company, They advertise 100% PERCENT SYNTHETIC. DOES IT HAVE oil from the ground cracked or not.??? All this is complacated is it
100%Synthetic oil? Or some of it is it from the Ground. Please be clear is it (both pao,s)or is it group four or cracked normal oil .Please explane in plain english. Please respond in comments.
So use the recommended wt oil and change it per vehicle recommendations? Got it AMS oil is not worth it!
If you don't drive over 5,000 miles an year it's not.
If you drive 10,000 miles or more in a year it's definitely worth it and if you also drive like a maniac like me, lots of idling and city driving!
Do not think you will save money now and later it will not cost you more!
If you keep your vehicles for a lot of years like me you are best with an 100% synthetic oil!
No ifs and buts! Just do your research but it is what it is! The molecules are all the same, stronger fluid strength,more protection etc.
Wes Herren: If you drive 3-5k a year, itll save you money but your engine will wear more. There is actual microscopic pieces of sand in the oil.
does
type 3 syn thicken in winter?
Yes... Type in oil test and its the first video on youtube. Shows comparison between M1, Amsoil and Royal Purple
what type of PAO amsoil uses? conventional polyalphaolefin (cPAO) or metallocene polyalphaolefin (mPAO)
Amsoil uses conventional PAO. mPAO is very revolutionary but quite expensive. When you look at Mobil motor oils you can see by the flashpoints that they are not using mPAO for motor oils. mPAO is used in very high temp industrial applications. Maybe as greater quantities of mPAO is produced the cost will come down by the economy of scale.
@@thelubepage thanks Mr. Watson.
@@thelubepage Don, I am an Amsoil dealer as well. Thank you for this clear, concise information! It has helped me in more technical talks with potential customers. Do you think Amsoil will adopt the mPAO at some point?
Is there any way to find out that oil is hydrocracked or PAO is there any relation of both hydrocracked & pao with api grading. Also is Motul uses a pao or hydrocracked.
If two different oil one is hydrocracked and other is pao both are API SN than both are good performance oil so how Hydrocracked one is less better than PAO. ...??
The performance between a group III and a PAO is overrated unless you are in the Arctic.
Hydro Cracked oil is as GOOD as PAO. Just check your oil level on regular bases, change oil and filter after 2 years or 15.000mls (wich ever comes first) and your engine is good for a million miles
@@N-e.o No a Group III is not as good as a Group IV and never will be. But thats a whole other discussion.
So is Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 (ASL) a group 4 or 5 ?
Robert Smith
Group VI. Red Line is famous for its Group V Ester based oil.
Group IV with some group V ester added.
Dan Watson thanks, it's true what I've heard then. I've heard that Group V Esters are incredible for cleaning. I'm glad you discussed the different 30 weights (0w,5w, and 10w) I'm in Texas and use the blue cap 10w30 in a Silverado 5.3 (iron block aluminum heads) I was a little worried about winter performance, however, even at 20-25 degrees it should flow fine. I've heard that 10w30 is better than 0w30 as less VII's are needed. Is that true ?
@@thelubepage Hi Dan, why amsoil ss is not using full ester based ?
@@yantonpangaribuan1601 full Ester oils can have some problems with moisture. Esters are highly polar and therefore very solvent in cleaning, this good but you have to have a blend to moderate the aggressive nature. Ester based oils have trouble going for extra long intervals, Amsoil combines PAO with Ester to get a better final product in the Signature Series oils.
This is 2010. I was reading that Mobil 1 has indeed went to group 3 as well with the exception of one specific blend called " extended performance".
I've heard this but unable to confirm.
From what I've read, an oil like Mobil 1 5w30 hasn't changed, still group four based. But Mobil now offers a "Super Synthetic" line of oils at a lower cost which one would assume is a group 3.
lk7496 it is not group 4 base Mobil has zero products on the market that are group 4 base.
GIVE ME OIL WITH AN ESTER BASE FROM GROUP 5, LIKE REDLINE OIL. A MUCH BETTER CHOICE THAN ONLY A GROUP 4 PAO LIKE AMSOIL!
Can you please post exactly how your owners manual states that the Amsoil 25000 mile recommendation voids your warranty.
My 2012 Dodge ram book states oil needs to be changed every 6 months or 6k miles whichever cones first. No exceptions allowed. Would/could that give Dodge a way to wiggle out of warranty coverage? I believe it would because their recommended OCI is 6 months 6k.
@@robshaw2990 Warranty issues regarding lube oil are always settled using oil analysis to determine the condition of the oil. Recommended oil change intervals are just that, recommended. Regardless of which oil you are using if you are denied warranty work because of the engine oil demand an oil sample to justify the denial. You'll find that the challenge to use an oil analysis is enough to stop the denial. If a sample is taken make sure you get one sample for yourself and the Dealership can take a sample for their use.
Contact Amsoil to get a good recommendation for sending the oil sample off. Amsoil will provide assistance in evaluating the oil analysis report to explain what the numbers mean. I have been involved in this procedure a few times in the 30 years of being an Amsoil Dealer and never has Amsoil oil been found to be the cause of the failure.
@@thelubepage ok I am sure Amsoil has never been found to be at fault. Not sure I have ever heard of any oil ever being held liable for an engine problem. Probably just because I didnt start paying attention until I start having problems.
Rather than run the risk of not having my hemi tick time bomb engine covered by my lifetime warranty I think I will just stick with an oil change every 4-5 months. I assume they will come up with some reason to not cover with a warranty but that will be one less thing to worry about.
So is he saying that Amsoil and Mobil 1 oils are the ones to get if you want the best? Where does Royal Purple stand as far as group oils?
Mobile one and royal purple are not that good amsoil and vavoline is the best rated oils best wear protection
RP is a Group IV PAO. Always has been. Has never changed as far as I know.
Engine sensors have complicated engine performance, burning a 25k motor oil for one year will reduce engine problems due to sensors, yet primarily your engine will stay clean inside you will never need to add engine cleaners and their cost. Amsoil 25k once a year and peace and good health to you. Dan thank you for the info you are the most credible oil engineer on the tube. I give you "The Jimmy" award as in hendricks some talk some teach.
I am going by my personal experiance on my h3 hummer amsoil has improved performance and gas mileage I increased my mileage with amsoil by 3 to 4 miles per gallon recording gallons and miles over a six month period. performance such as dry starts, warm up, engine vibration, all improved, I have always known oils oxidize and become sticky and resist the engine my kia soul, sweet little car she is, does not like dirty oil, yet my big girl hummer she is prissey she dont like oxidized oil too sticky, straight five engine block, heavey car. So amsoil 25 k made significant performance I will never need to add additives, I ride 12 k a year and change oil once a year engine is like new.
25k my ass!
People can talk all day long about long term oil changes. As long as gasoline is being used as fuel the engine starts out cold and goes thru a warming up time there will be gasoline diluting the engine oil. Oil is better than it has ever been. Periodic oil analysis will show the oil is still good but it is still diluted that is the reason I personally don't believe in long term oil changes. I buy engine oil and filter ar wally world and change it myself. Amsoil has an amazing advertising program. Some sites give the impression they are info about oil and turn out ti be amsoil advertising. People do respond to advertising.
.
There is a lot more ester in Redline Oil than in Amsoil.
Dude, it's obvious YOU are an Amsoil dealer.
Controlled testing, like what, Amsoil commissioned and published 4-ball wear tests that have no relevance to a lubricant's performance in an engine? A test that not even the API acknowledges as a viable test for lubricant performance? That "controlled testing"?
Many passenger vehicles DO fit that niche. GDI/turbo/small sump gas motors fit that niche to a T. Drain intervals are only one aspect of lubricant performance...
I can understand that motor oils are rated for only so many miles of use, after which they need to be changed. Where exactly does the time interval come into play? I've heard six months, i've heard a year, i've heard two years. Does a motor oil really go bad sitting at the bottom of the crankcase? Everyone seems to have an opinion about this. What does the chemistry say about oil just sitting around in a base pan (or on the shelf) that isn't being worked? Say an engine that sees less than 5k a year. Is there any evidence that suggest you should change motor oil based on a specific "time" interval because the oil or its additives begin to break down?
+john barto I could not agree with you more!! Oddly enough I actually do have periodic tests of my oil. I use a lab located in Fort Wayne IN. I think the total test cost around $35, but I seem to recall getting an email about a price increase. They have told me exactly how much life my additive pack has based off of the TBN figure and also how the engine is ostensibly performing from the metals in the oil. In my truck, a 2003 Tacoma V6, I can regularly get "about" 10k miles out of my hydrocracked base motor oil before the AP is spent. Though I choose to change it just before it is completely depleted as I like to leave some margin for error. The truck is my work truck and has ~220k miles on it. It does not burn any oil (that I can tell). I don't drive it to hard, and it never misses a beat. Miles are mostly highway. I had to replace the valve cover gaskets at around 200k and the valve train look great with no varnish or sludge. I use good quality filters and open them up from time to time to get an idea of their performance, occasionally soaking the filter media in kerosene and letting it set for a week or two in a glass jar to see any sediment. I don't do this often as I am not trying to obsess over itl, but it's nice to see what your filter holds sometimes. Never had a problem with any of them. But yes, an oil analysis provides about as much scientific evidence as one could ask for, and will quickly clear up the question about when you should change your oil.
+john barto Been using Castrol Syntec 10w30 jug at walmart for the last 120k. Before that I used 5w-30 up to 100k starting with GTX and then eventually syntec. I have used all kinds of filters including Mann, Fram, Denso, Toyota OEM, etc... but tend to go with Wix also (sometimes Napa branded Wix). I still think they are made in Gastonia NC and you can't go wrong with them. I have never used M1 oil, but clearly would have no problem using it as the information I have seen indicates it is top notch. I've just had really good luck with Castrol over the years and I know how it tests so I'm familiar with that aspect of it and somewhat know what to expect. I have also used MMO on occasion towards the end of a change, just to help aid in keeping everything free internally, but I don't really think it is necessary for a clean engine. Old habits are hard to break. Whatever the case may be I have always received very good reports.
Time stipulated for oil changes is based on depletion of additives due to cycles of heating up and cooling down of the engine and engine oil. When you drive into the drive way and turn the engine off the oil and engine begin to cool down. Eventually both the engine and the oil will reach ambient temperature. Depending on where you live there will be condensation on the internals of the engine and water will drip down into the crankcase oil. When the engine is started the next day, the oil and engine will begin to heat up. As the oil gains temperature the water will be a catalyst for oxidation and deplete some of the anti-oxidant additives in the oil. This water will combine with byproducts of combustion and form acids. The acids will be neutralized by alkaline additives in the oil. For most applications the number of cycles for a low mileage vehicle will not be all that different from a high mileage vehicle. It is usually a function of how far you drive once you start the car up. For example, someone driving 50 miles to work vs someone driving 10 miles to work will have the same daily cycles but a considerable difference in total miles driven.
Hey I know its been a year but there are factors which are not specifically addressed in your question. Mainly, your cylinder bores are not perfectly round because the block is longer than it is wide, so it WILL expand length-wise more than it will width-wise because imbalances need to have an end result which is proportional to the beginning. this causes the piston and rings to allow fuel/air to blow past the piston rings on start-up. This literally adds fuel to the oil mix. The changed chemistry is why your engine oil has a in engine useful life. Yes it goes through heat cycles, but it also gets contaminated so miles are not the only factor that matters. The longer the engine oil is contaminated the longer it can break down.
john barto A full analysis costs about the same as new oil
In other words, the hydro processed Type-III oils are just as good as the PAO oils for a once a year oil change or 7,500 miles. All of the API certified oils have to beat the API's PAO oil in the laboratory. That's right, even the cheapest of the cheapest oils have to beat the API's PAO in the laboratory to be API certified. Check out the "Machinery Lubrication" website. Real world performance, not laboratory "tests".
One can assume that most of the so called Synthetic Oils on the market are Group lll Hydro-Crack Oil. That oil companies cannot at least mark their oils as too which group it is would at least be fair to the consumer. I detest Low Handed Marketing.
Most of the Full Synthetic oil advertised are only by law 25% Synthetic!
@@brianpeters867 You mean 25% Group lV?
@@markwarnberg9504 What I am saying is if a bottle of whatever oil, is marked ‘Full Synthetic’ then by law it only has to be 25% or more to be legally able to advertise ‘Full Synthetic’.
@@brianpeters867 Confused?? Castrol won their case against Mobil that their Group lll Hydro-Carck Oil could be called Synthetic Oil, so why would a company add 25% Ester Group lV oil into the mix? The word FULL is decieving as a Synthetic Oil is a Group lV oil. Most of the oil on the market is Group lll!
@@markwarnberg9504 I think you are confused. What you just said is the exact thing I just said or meant! LOL! :)
I've tried for a long time to find out for sure what kind of base stock amsoil uses and they will never tell. if they used pao or ester why wouldn't they advertise this? i use motul 300v and it says ester!
for example bardhal is pao
they used to advertise what it was. now they dont! its weird!
300V is a Di Ester (dual ester or Two ester )
The XL blend is a group 3 base oil and then their signature is a grp4
Primary base stock is Exxon-Mobil Visom. It's group III+. It is only inferior to PAO in Artic conditions. It has PAO and Di-ester blended in the finished product. The entire package is more important than a single basestock.
The more I study motor oil,. It was not by listening to du(m a$$ advertising it was a mission. Look up Torco, you will learn, make up your own mind. My advice is to study base stock oils which makes up 70# of oil and don’t believe the hype.
@@seinfeld11123 hi Jack, is it true ester based oil cause seal swelling ?
Exactly "please check your oil", no matter what oil you got in there if it runs out then you will have a dead engine anyways.
Sounds like he knows his shit
Rather dishonest to say that the 'Entire lubrication world went to Gr 3, except Amsol and XOM.' You need to practice saying the word 'Redline' when you talk about esters and GrV stocks. Further, there is strong evidence that XOM and others do include modest amounts of Gr5 stocks in their products.
The fact is, Amsoil does not have, and never had any capability both technologically and equipment wise to produce ANY lubricant base oil.You are purchasing your base stock from a bulk supplier,not producing them.
Astute observation. I don't remember ever saying Amsoil was refiner or manufacturer of base stocks. The base stocks that Amsoil sues are not secrets and they are available from a variety of chemical companies. Historically, Amsoil has bought PAO's from Mobil Chemical Co. Esters from Lubrizol and group III base stocks from a variety of suppliers.
William Green what’s proprietary is the additive package. Mobil use to bottle and sell the same thing that Amsoil does today, but no money in that for them so they don’t do it. Now they bottle you up conventional as synthetic and people eat that shit up at 3-4 times the cost.
@@carloscruz7317 The only important thing is it GF 5 or not. Where it started out is not important. The final product is.
That's a whole lot of BUY MOBIL1 synthetic right there.
joenissan nothing in Mobil products has group 4 pao true synthetic base stock in it.
I like race cars.
my car calls for 5w20 considering were heading into the warmer season like summer is 5w20 gonna be ok???? thanks.
My urine is thicker than 5w20.
Hydrocracking takes all the impurities out of oil.
The just send hydrogen through it to hydrocrack. I operated such a hydrogen plant for 5 yrs. Hydrogen likes to readily bond to pretty much everything. Once bound to contaminants it allows the refinery to more easily crack out contaminants. Hydrogen is essentially used as a cleaning agent much like we used nitrogen to purge things to acceptable LELs
When oil is hydro-Treated it is purified using hydrogen to chemically react with certain impurities removing them chemically. This is not to be confused with Hydro-cracking oil. The hydro-cracking is a step after the hydro-treating purifies the oil. The hydro-cracking actually uses hydrogen and extreme temp and pressure to break the hydro-carbons into smaller fractions. The smaller fractions can be separated into very narrow cuts to give near uniform size.
What good hydro or pao..
إدزارماكس إساكتوربو pao always
This is the worst argument for paying way morwe for ams oil
5w-20 is FINE for summer and winter. If your cap says 5w-20 or 0w-20, the manufacturer really wants you to run 0w-20. It has better Extreme cold flow and you get slightly better fuel economy (which is important for an EPA average that they must meet) If your car says 5w-20, run it all year long with no problems. There's no advantage to running a 5w-30, unless your car runs hot (racing, air cooled). I'm a Toyota Master tech with over 20 years experience. There is only a VERY slight diff.
...turn more people away from Amsoil than towards it. Foul language, bad attitude, and childish barbs toward anyone who dares to question Amsoil's absolute supremacy.
Amsoil owns the extended drain market, and that's what Signature Series is formulated to do. Red Line's strength isn't extended drains, on that front they are little better than XL, what Red Line builds oils for is minimal coefficient of friction, shear stability, and unsurpassed deposit control. On those fronts THEY dominate
2:27 This is insane.
Oooooooh my goodness.
It's like burning off the impurities of meth. Light the pipe for 5 to 10 seconds then smoke it
Theres too many oil brands. There cant be so many requirements in practise.
Theres either good oil or bad oil. Good oil protects the engine no matter what, bad oil can be cleaning but not lubricating the parts well.
Who do you trust more for oil selection? The engineer who designed your engine or some idiot at Amsoil pushing oil sales to make more money for their pyramid scheme?
the extended oil change oils are misleading. The oil filter is not being used at 2,000 miles. Filters have to be changed at 5,000 maximum. Oil is bypassing the filter because the filter is totally plugged at around 2500 miles.
change the filter at 5,000 miles and change the oil too. I get well over 200,000 miles from an engine by doing that. I'm running motorcycle engines well over 100,000 miles with 4-5,000 mile oil changes, using petroleum based oil.
fjones63 it’s not to say that it ain’t being done. But their is no reason for it when a superior performing product can give better lubrication for 4-5x the interval
Here in europe we change our oils and filters arround 15.000-20.000Km or 2 year.
My car has 315.000Kms with these intervals (running fully-synthetic "Hydro cracked" oil). It depends on the car manufacturer and engine itself and the use of the correct OEM approved oil specs. Just check the oil level on regular basis and top it off when needed. No need to change oil so often!
Also if your filter is totally "plugged" at 2K miles.. then there is something terribly wrong with your engine. a clean running engine does not clog up the filter so soon.. only a bad engine does!
...and all that calcium (which is primarily where Amsoil is getting that 12.5 TBN from) isn't without drawbacks.
The simple fact of the matter is that when it comes to high heat, high stress apps Red Line with it's superior high lubricity, highly polar, polyol ester base and 950 ppm shot of MoTDC and higher ZDDP levels oils will outperform Signature Series. Period.
Don't use whatever weight oil you feel like using. ALWAYS USE THE OIL RECOMMENDED IN YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL AND ON THE FILL CAP ATTACHED TO THE DIPSTICK.
The truth is that most engines just aren't that sensitive to the oil viscosity and most engines are validated on many different weights of oils. My Honda's engine is. Here in America, the only approved oil is 5W20 and it's written on the cap. But in Australia, Japan, Germany, etc, no specific viscosity is specified on the cap and 0W20, 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, and 15W40 are also recommended for the exact same engine yet most Americans think using 15W40 in an engine specifying 5W20 only is certain to cause some type of problem. The oil's operational viscosity isn't going to be constant anyways no matter what because it's temperature isn't constant. If the oil runs, for example, 10 degrees warmer or cooler, that could change its viscosity by a whole grade or more.
use Walmart oil, change it at recommended intervals, you know super-tec lube, it will bring down the price of all these BS.oil co.motor oils. besides it's good oil.
I use supertech full synthetic in all of my cars, it's a very good oil. All of them have well over 100k miles.
Oil cost should not be an issue when it comes to oil choice, except that Amsoil is overpriced. It is much cheaper, in the long run, to spend a little extra for better oil than to pay a mechanic to replace or repair your engine.
Well apparently you feel you have something to "prove" since you've deleted the majority of your comments on this vid, I wonder why that is?
Have you made a single post here without containing a direct personal insult or vulgarity? Like I said, typical youtube low-life, and while that is definitely a personal insult you've more than earned it.
Of course you wouldn't, because you are an Amsoil dealer. Becoming an Amsoil dealer is incredibly cheap and easy, I have my Amsoil dealer card to prove it. You only continue to prove your emotional investment in the product, I never bashed Amsoil, I challenged their "unrivaled performance in all aspects of lubricant performance", no oil is all things to all people. I bashed Amsoil's numerous low-life dealers such as yourself, which is a drawback to MLM, anybody can get in on it.
Motul is #1 in the World
that a fake class
You only say this because you are lubricant illiterate. Red Line is a fantastic niche product aimed at high demand/high heat apps. To that end no one makes a better oil, including Amsoil.
But hey, you can keep ignoring the "facts".
Came here for PAO oil information... this guys bored the shit out of me in the first 5 minutes of this video...
Just a Salesman! Redline is by far the best lubricant. I would never run any oil regardless over 5k. If amsoil was the best as they claim u figure more consumers would be flocking to stores to get it. Oh ya they don't do that huh? Kind of strange huh. U have to pay to get a better deal on the oil. Aka preferred customer/dealer. If u see the price they AKA this guy! get it at and then sell it to u marked up. U would choke. What a ripoff amsoil.
Actually, I am a Certified Lubrication Specialist. I am certified by the STLE (Society of Tribologist and Lubrication Engineers). But I don't mind being called a salesman, good salesman are the backbone of every product producing company. Amsoil is a growth phenomenon with many years of double digit growth and is readily available in thousands of stores and directly from Dealers and now on the Internet. The customers keep coming and the numbers are growing every year. The Preferred Customer program you mention is no different than being a member of Sam's Club or Costco. The program is designed for large level consumers and rewards their loyalty and larger quantity buying. As far as the 'markup' most retail stores complain that the suggested retail prices from Amsoil do not have a high enough margin. I don't think you have any idea of the average markup in retail stores. By the way, Redline is not sold in as many stores as Amsoil. I see by your name that you are a trucker by trade, excellent profession, the nation runs daily on trucks. You do know that the average drain interval for large trucks is 14,000 miles. See, the drain interval is not the same for every application, and certainly not the same for synthetic and petroleum oils. Bottom line, if you don't want to use Amsoil then don't buy it, but before you denigrate the product do a little more homework to make a better case.
blake Day trucker oil analysis don’t lie. I own a small business and have 2 million miles of oil analysis testing.