How To Choose The Right Viscosity Motor Oil - A Certified Lubrication Specialist Explains
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2022
- Viscosity is the the most important property in a motor oil, but did you know that viscosity changes with temperature? Also, the ideal choice in viscosity for an engine is dependent on factors such as bearing clearance and oil ring tension. In this video, Certified Lubrication Specialist Lake Speed Jr explains how to choose the correct viscosity for your engine.
Like many things, too much viscosity or too little viscosity results in problems. The chart presented in this video gives you the tools to make the right choice.
For the viscosity chart: drivenracingoil.com/rt-5996-c...
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For more about Tribology and Lake Speed Jr: • Episode 026 | Piston...
For how to choose the correct break-in oil: • ☑️ Do’s & Don’ts ⛔️ of...
#RacingEngine #CylinderBore #CylinderHoning #PistonRings #Enginetechnology #horsepower #engine #motoroil - Авто та транспорт
After 50 years of doing it myself, I finally seriously researched motor oil. I came to the shocking realization that I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I have ever owned from the early 70s till today. In several of them, the recommended viscosity was 5W-30. However, in the fine print it always said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature never went below 0 Fahrenheit. So there.
I use what my car manufacturer recommends in the winter and put in a slightly thicker oil in the summer. Most of all, I pay attention to the night time temps. I want the thinner oil in there for cold nights. When it never gets below freezing at night, only then will I put in my summer oil. You want the oil flowing freely at start up...always.
For the new wrx's, Subaru recommends 5W-30 in the Canadian owner's manual and 0w 20 in the US owner's manual. It has to do with EPA requirements in the usa.
I’m 5 min into the video, heard nothing but viscosity, viscosity, and how important it is. What is the point? What do you suggest people do rather than following manufacturer’s recommendation?
Thanks for the great video. One thing to keep in mind, fuel dilution changes the viscosity requirement for pedestrian gas cars too. We can choose an oil that provides adequate MOFT under 100% of normal operating situations, but when driving around town, fuel can accumulate in the oil. Follow this up by a blast down the road at high speed, some towing, or a track day without enough time to evaporate the fuel, and bearing failure can be the result. The Audi supercharged V6 is well known for this.
Great point!
There is more than fuel dilution at work here. A 5W 30 oil is a 5 weight oil.cold with viscosity improvers to make it act like a 30 weight oil when it is hot. Operating in the tight clearances of a running engine a couple of other things that happen beyond fuel dilution are shear back whereby those viscosity improvers get broken. Think of them kind of like tiny bits of thread that get torn in half, so now your hot oil behaves more like a 25 or 20 when hot. Another thing that happens is boil off. Petroleum is a compendium of molecules with different boiling points. When you get the oil well warmed up the light ends vapourize and get carried out in the PCV system. Now your 5 oil becomes 8 or 10 when cold.
Synthetic oils do not have the range of molecules petroleum oils do and can be engineered for qualities the designers want. Thus they do not have the same light end boiloff or the shearback. Synthetics generally have premium additive packages in them that prevent shear better.
Like the old Fram filters ad, pay me now or pay me later. You generally get what you pay for, so if you pay for cheap shit, you get cheap shit.
@@daledavies2334 speaking of PCV , I wish people would change their friggin pcv valves! Some cars should have them changed as early as 30,000 miles. Then on another topic, I also wish folks would do their transmission fluid at regular intervals. Today's small DI turbo engines with a CVT is so easy to do, you should really be doing it atleast once a year. Or at a minimum of every 30,000 miles.
Great video. Interesting how important the 40c viscosity is.
In many climates it’s the viscosity change of the oil from say 10c or 20c to 100c that is so relevant.
Excellent video! I’ve never seen a chart that gives you a baseline for where to start with bearing clearances. I want to build a road race 454 LS7, and now I can have an intelligent talk with my engine builder. I’d like to run 0W-40 on the road course at an oil temperature greater than 212°F and still have adequate oil pressure at 7000 RPM. Hopefully going with the gas-ported, gapless 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring package! Thanks for educating the track rats and gearheads out there!
We are happy to help! The gas ported top rings are awesome, and the 0W-40 should be a solid option with bearing clearances between .002 and .0025
Can 0w damage the engine in cold starts? I have a toyota corolla tsport 2zzge with 192hp hp 8.400rpm and recommended 5w30 or 10w30 but lotus in elise and exige with the same engine recoment 5w40 I use 0w40 oil always. Is 0w weight safe for engine? The 40 is ok but I worried for 0w. I use 0w40 because the mobil1 fs 0w40 is the best oil in my neighbourhood and I get it free from my cousin.
@DimosTs192 dodge specificies a 0w40 for all their scat packs aka 6.4l Hemi, so at least at start up I cant imagine they would spec an oil leading to wear under warranty...in fact other oils will void it....
I run a 5w50 in a 7600rpm LS7 build get about 75psi hot at shift....
The gen 3 boosted coyote calls for 5w50 it would see 90psi at 8000rpm shifts well 7850
We need to figure out an oil and filter package for our sprint car motors over the off season. Love your content. ❤
Thank you!
Love your work mr Speed Jr . As you chaps say” awsum “. Together with all these other boffins you introduce , this is just the best fun. Thank you to Stapleton 42 for helping me finds you guys. Keep it gannin lads✌
Glad you enjoy it!
Stapleton lead me here also
Always enjoy you videos guys!.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words!
Ford recommends 5w-20 for my Coyote 5.0 f150. But one thing I noticed is that most 5w-20 evaporative characteristics is what is giving the 5.0 a reputation for high oil consumption. By simply going to 5w-30 I noticed my Oil Catch can had less oil in it and my oil level was better between oil changes. OE recommendations isn’t always the best.
Same 5w30
That's because, today, oil viscosity recommendations are partly based on gas mileage, rather than engine life.
@@jamesbosworth4191true… it’s about making money too
Another great class! Thanks guys!
Thanks! We have a great podcast episode coming soon on this topic.
Thank you for this valuable information !
Glad it was helpful!
Good video. One has to remember that with miles come wear, the clearances will get bigger thus less resistance for the oil. With higher milage you will have too use a thicker oil.
High mileage oil
FINALLY! There had to be one of those charts somewhere.
Thanks! We are glad to help.
Thanks for the insights!
We are glad it was helpful!
Wow, great info. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
🔔👍
I run the Ford Fox police oil to water heat exchanger that connects in the return heater hose and installs under my oil filter. It stabilizes the temp around 210*f, I think. 10w30 Mobil1.
That always seemed like a good idea.
The trucks hook it to the cold radiator hose.
Great information 👍
Glad you liked it
Loved the video, I have no idea what I was supposed to learn. Still, I'm happy. :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
drive a 5.2l Dodge Dakota, 330k plus miles, use mfg recommended 10W-30 oil. No synthetics, just Valvoline or Penzoil basic oils. Change oil and filter at 7,500 miles weather it needs it or not. Always use Fram TG filters. Never have let the oil get down to 'add' level. Zero engine problems, oil pressure is still good. Fancy oils are no substitute for a well designed engine.
I have been using synthetic oil only in race engines for near 30 years. Road race or dirt oval engines. Have normally used 25/50. Chev road race engine did aprox 2200 race miles and the bearings were basically brand new. Good enough to reuse. Unfortunatly the crank was cracked! I did use 15/40 also, seemed no different. This on a drysumped SBC road race engine with a decent oil cooler running to 7500. Oil temp usually around 220-230degF
Current project is a 5 litre Ford to 340ci. Will be run to 7500 also. The windsor oil pump drive is too small@ 5/16,, weak and I am stuck with a [good] wet sump. I feel 10/40 may be the go. Crank will be aprox 2 thou right along.
Use a crome molly shaft.
Truly my dream job. U should do some testinging on shaeffers and its moly addative. I’m sure u kno about it but videos would be cool showing how and why it works. As far as incredible luberication and capability’s. Iv seen night and day diff in temps, line pressure, mileage, breakdown etc, hope to see some vids
Great suggestion!
Most people don't understand multi weight oils or viscosity; this subject is best explained by SAE ( society of automotive engineers )!!!
I have been using Rotella or Delvac 15W40 in everything I own since the 70s. Which included a3.5hp Briggs & Stratton push mower that lasted 25 years!?!?!?
Today I use Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything.
I said all this as a retired CAT&CUMMINGS diesel mechanic.
great vid guys, has anyone talked about oil film strength?? I think this is particularly relevant in ball bearing conrods and similar, like many motorbikes have. thx.
For some odd reason... I was wishing mr T could have popped into this video just to say "jibber-jabber" just one time. But there are a few nuggets worth our time.
LOL
I agree. I never got the 'point' being made. Too much zig-zag .
Very informative.👍
Thanks!
I'm pretty new to investigating the best oils to maintain the engine I have so that it will outlast me and I'm curious; where can I find the main bearing clearance spec for my vehicle? I can't seem to find numbers by basic internet search for my 2020 GLC43
Many years ago I ran two different oils to test on a very hobby level, but there was almost 40 degrees *C oil temperature difference, one was Semi-Synthetic maybe 15-40 or 10-40, the other was Full Synthetic maybe 5-30. It is a long time ago, but I was impressed at the difference, it was also two different brands, so many changes. But one of them was around 95*C and the other around 135*C at full warm somewhat "hard driving" on the street, not on track.
What oil was best for the motor I would guess the one that kept the heat the lowest. As long as the pistons also were cooler, and not just the oil.. Hmm.. I guess above 100*C would be nice for some water evaporation though.
But what actually made me comment here, was the Cylinder head, just a random Olds head on the table.
Thanks!
Which oil run hotter for your experience?
@@BoredGeese In my experience fully synthethic runs cooler if you check the oil temp gauge, if it is because that oil transport more heat away from the other materials, bearings, pistons etc. or absorbs less heat than mineral oil I do not know, I only get more questions thinking about it than answers.
But if the synthethic has less wear than mineral oil, I guess part of the lower temperature is because there is less friction, less wear and less temperature because of that. But maybe it is cooler because it is more effective at transfering more heat away instead? And is that because of the more uniform size of the synthetic oil molecules or because of more/better additives? I do not know. But too hot oil is not good atleast, but then, what is too hot oil? What is the limit?
Great video! But now I have questions! Thank you very much, so I have a BBC 454 jet drive stock 91 octaine from 47 to 5200 RPM OIl pressure hot is 60 and a bit over 100PSI ta max RPM I am using 20/50 Valoline High zinc on a 300 hour motor. Should I hit the danger zone and change to a thiner oil?
Thanks for the feedback. The VR1 20W-50 is a great oil!
That speaker reminds me of Richard Simmons' Total Body Workout on TV. LOL I am just short of 50 years of vehicle ownership both in daily drivers and performance machines, and I have never had an oil related failure using name brand oils in the viscosity listed in the owner's manual. Jeez and some I have kept for over 200K miles from new.
I have done multiple UOA comparisons of two similar Amsoil diesel oils except for their viscosity. (5w-30 / 15w-40) Although my manual states a 10w-30 required I get least wear partials from the 15w-40.
Eg iron 5ppm jumps to 8ppm using the 5w-30 over 3000 miles.
Thanks for sharing. The UOA is the way to go!
A dyno test would also be interesting to see.
@@ericfranke1637 yeah, you do have less resistance with 5w-30 but less compression n more blowby
I would like to learn more about the zinc in Driven motor oils.
Thanks for the awesome info! I always seem to be thinking about running thicker oil in my car. It's just a toyota v6 that i don't drive hard but I would love to try 15w 40 oil in the summer when I do long trips. Never thought about the piston ring tension. I can't seem to get myself to try anything other than the 5W 30 my manual says but this was a fun thought experiment for me. Looking forward to learning more from you guys!
I'm a big fan of 15-40 and use it in a lot of my engines and customers engines. I shy away from it in modern cars with variable cam timing stuff, some of them seem to be pretty sensitive to oils. While there might be better options, you typically won't go wrong with using what the manual says.
@@DonziGT230 "...you typically won't go wrong with using what the manual says." Yup. Could have been a single-sentence video.
0w20 gets into and high up in the motor quickly,the gen 3 hemi likes this.
I've got a 2013 F150 3.5 EcoBoost that recommends 5w-30 in the manual. Is there a better option you'd recommend? I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Winter temps get down to -15 degrees F and summer up to 90 degrees F.
Stay with that viscosity and that oil.
We use straight 30 wt, in our hot rod engines, because we run .003 thou. On the mains, and .002 thou. On the rods. Lighter oil might allow the crank to hammer the bearings at 7 to 8,000 rpm
How does the choice of oil viscosity differ with different types of camshafts? What if the rules require a functional flat tappet hydraulic lifter vs a solid and or what about a hydraulic or solid roller? Do those differences also change the needs of the engine when it comes to viscosity?
Thanks for the question. The camshaft type does not effect the choice of viscosity. It’s all about bearing clearances and oil temperature.
@TotalSeal mate is ok the 0w40 use instead 5w30? Can damage the engine? Toyota 2zzge vvtli 1800cc 192hp 8.400rpm.
Hello, I just bought an imported used 2016 chevrolet impala 2.5l 4 cylinders from korea, on the oil cap it says 5w20, but the mechanic said to put instead 5w30 because we are in Senegal west africa, where we live most of the time in summer, is it a good idea to put the 5w30? Thank you
When I added a supercharger to my sbc, I changed from 10w-30 to 0w-40. It's running over triple the stock hp so the oil is worked much harder and sees more heat.
Going up in viscosity is the right move when going from NA to Boost.
@@TotalSeal I've heard others recommend to stick with factory viscosity. No thanks! I wanted better cold flow for instant oil pressure and flow on cold starts.. while maintaining better protection when I step on the throttle. I recently read that the 650hp LT4 is factory filled with the same multi-grade viscosity.
@@EricErnst good thinking
@@EricErnst Not withstanding the fact that a 0w40 is already almost a 30 from the container and get to a low 30 after a few hours of operation
So, you still giving a 30 most of the time, anyways
Film strength matters too. The 0w40 requires more viscosity modifiers than a 10w30, assuming all else is equal. More viscosity modifiers (big numerical spread) often result in less shear resistance. The big numerical spread can look like everyone is happy, but might not be as protective as numbers closer together (less modifiers).
10w30 won't shear to less than 10. 0w40 can shear down to 0.
Lake jr./ can you help me, I drive my 2016 f 150 5.0 v8 only in the summers in Minn. And park it in the winters. I only start it in the winter in my garage twice to 3 times a month, 5 - 10 min. Just to lube the internal parts. Would using 0-20 be ok to use only to get the oil to internals faster at start up, and I use 5-30 Pennzoil ultra platinum in summer. Please let me know your thoughts, love your oil videos. THANKS!!
Amsoil 5W30 100% synthetic
I had for now only old vehicles who accepted even the 15W-40 oil.
Two Diesels, both indirect injection ones, and two gasoline/LPG ones, a 1.0l 3 cylinder made from Daihatsu, and a 1.731cc I4 Volvo one.
In all four I use and used 5W-40.
With 5W-40 instead of 10 or worse 15W-40 I have less fuel consumption and less oil consumption.
Just to give some data, the indirect injection turbo car I had, had consumed 2l of oil in 6000km during a summer trip in Spain (starting from Italy) with the 15W-40.
Same km the next year with the 5W-40, it consumed something like 100cc.
The other Diesel was a 2.5l 70hp naturally aspirated from the early '80s, on an autocaravan, same story, with the 5W-40 less consumption of fuel and oil.
Ok to mix 1/2 and 1/2 pennzoil ultra platinum 0w20 and 5w30 or 0w-30 to give my recommended 0-20 a little more thickness in summer months? 2021 Honda Ridgeline j series v6 and a 2022 Subaru legacy w 2.4 turbo both call for 0-20. Live in New England (CT). Thanks!
Yep, that is fine.
@@TotalSeal thanks!
This makes me think back to the 90s era, when NASCAR teams had Qualifying engines, then put in Race engine. People talked about, the engines ran really thin oil, etc, to get more HP to qualify faster, but won't survive a full race. Wonder what the backstory is there?
I have a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 cyclone engine at the current time I'm running 5W-20 Mobil 1 AF synthetic, I know that was recommended strictly for CAFE here in the US, because in other countries, they recommend 5W-30. I know that engine is not hard on oil, I have a 120000 on it right now, I've already had the water pump replaced, along with the timing chain, tensioners, guides and oil pump. Would you recommend going to a 5W-30? Stay with this oil?
Thank you for your help
I don’t know if that is going to help you but one my friends at my previous work used to have a Mazda CX9 with the same engine as your Ford Edge. He clocked at over 400 thousand kilometres (250k miles plus) using 5w20 oil and didn’t have any issues engine wise. Aside from charging the water pump obviously.
Won’t hurt a thing.
Dear Lake, should I switch from manufacturer’s recommended 0W20 to 0w30 in Honda Accord 2012 4cyl engine for less engine wear and better engine protection? This car is my daily city driving vehicle in San Diego, CA with 200,000 miles on the odometer and usually 3K-5K oil change intervals with Mobil or Pennzoil. There are thousands of mechanics out there that tell users to stay away from SAE20 and other lower weight oil as the engine life is very much reduced because of using those. Please share your insight. Much appreciated!
In San Diego, you could probably use 5W-30, but we don’t recommend changing viscosity without doing used oil analysis before and after to know for certain if the viscosity change was beneficial.
@@TotalSeal Thank you so much, will do! God bless
Hey Lake Jr. I have a stock ford 4.6 3v in my Mustang and run 20-30 min hpde/time trial road courses. Oil temp usually settles at about 220 on cooler days and up to 235 on hot days. I've been running a 50/50 blend of FR20 and LS30. Should I continue with the blend or go straight 5/30 for my application?
That sounds like a good blend.
Awesome, thank you!@@TotalSeal
I have a stock BRZ fa20 NA motor and I only run it on track. OE manual calls for 0w-20. I was thinking 0w-40 with an oil cooler to have more wear protection at higher temps. Temps stay between 245 and 270. Do you agree?
If you race in cold weather stick the 0 weight.is good , if you race in hot weather zero weight is stupid! Sounds backwards but not really they sell the same vehicle with the same oil and ship some to Alaska and some to Death Valley all with the same oil. Owner manuals usually say change to 5 or 10wt depending temperate extremes.
I have a fbo and tuned g37 and I live in a pretty cold climate during the winter. I usually run 5w40. Think that’s okay in temps that get close to -10° occasionally?
Yes, that is fine for that temperature.
I drive a car with a low mileage 1 litre gdi turbo motor. I live in a a tropical country with temperatures around 80 f. My manual recommends 5w30, 10w30 and 10w40 viscocity. What would be the viscosity that is best for lowest engine wear for city driving conditions in your opinion . Would greatly appreciate your response.
For a GDI engine, go with an API SP 5W-30 synthetic.
@@TotalSeal Thank you v much 1for your time. Most channels never respond to viewer comments.
We are happy to help!
I have a 2008 c63 and the manual recommends 0w40 or 5w40. I have been running 5w49 because people say the 5w is better to prevent lifter tick at startup. Is this what you would go with?
As long as the outside temperature is above -10F, the 5W-40 is fine. For driving in colder weather, the 0W-40 is better.
Try Lucas Oil Stabilizer as an additive...
The 0w isn't oil weight the 40 is. The 0w is resistance on cold 0w flows better than 5w in all climates
@@DimoS... resistance to flow is viscosity..... both numbers are weights. 0w40 flows faster than 5w40 at cold temperatures (cold engine start) but has the same viscosity at operating temp (212 degrees F).
With the typical low tension rings and or gdi engines, are you better to go up a grade?
Going up a grade with low tension oil rings can increase oil consumption.
'19 Tundra with 5.7L, it calls for 0w20, can i bump to 5w20 or 5w30 for the summertime here in in texas?
Yes. Some of the first 5.7 manuals specs all the way to 20w-50 depending on operating temps.
So this weekend we raced (sbc350/gm crank .0017-.0019, scat rods .002, mahle powerpack pistons, low tension rings, .500 lift rule, NA moror) running XP3 (10w-30 Synthetic) my oil temp guage (autometer mechanical) was pegged over 280-300 degrees. Same temp with autometer electric guage. My water guage was at 180-190 (weird split, oil/water). Oil pressure wot apx 65-70lbs @6500rpm. Why are my temps so high, and should I switch to driven 5w-20 XP1? Will that help keep temps down? Should i be concerned with 290-300 degree oil temps? Sorry for the long question.
Those temps are pretty normal for this type of application, and the XP3 can a handle it. With that said, try the XP1 as it is a better fit for those clearances.
For hot climates that are higher than 35° C, can I use the 5w-20? Or it's better to continue with the 5w-30?
5w30 for the heat, 5w20 is thinner. Use 5w20 in the winter
@@jd646 Thank you! I'll stick with the 5w30. The winter here in Brazil is hotter than 25º C (trust me, its true)
I have a (what I think) is a great question.
I collect many Japanese imports. My cars from Japan, state to use 5w40/10w40. My US SPEC Honda/Acura that uses the same identical B18C VTEC engine, states to use the factory 5w30/10w30. The ONLY difference in the two is that the Japanese spec revs a bit higher because of the ECU. I always wondered why the difference.
A better similarity is a Japanese spec S2000 to a US S2000. Japan states in the owners manual 5/40-10w40, in the US 10w30.
Do you know why? Emissions BS? Marketing? I hate to question or argue with a true Honda engineer, but I feel you would know!
Love the channel
The lower viscosity spec in the US is because of EPA fuel economy requirements.
I was looking for info on switching between a 30 and 40 weight oil but this video is on the extreme ends of oil weight.
I Was Told I'm Over Thinking What Oil I Should Run. My Mains Said 30 And The Rods Said 40. The Machine Shop That Built My Short Block Said 20w50. I Said Why And They Said The Added Bearing Clearance. I Called Amsoil And It Was Literally The Same Thing. They Said Yea Run 40 Weight But If Machine Shop Said 50 Run 50. He Was Like, It's Not A Big Deal To Run Oil That's A Little More Viscous. I've Got A Little 3.8 V6 Turbo Engine FWD Auto That I Will Be Daily Driving Again. It The Little Details That Will Drive You Crazy.
If the loosest clearance was a 40 grade, then go with a 5W-40. Extra viscosity is extra heat.
20W 50 maybe, but unless you live in the desert, stay away from straight 50.
I've always just use that recommended in the owner's manual of the vehicle. They're pretty much all online these days.
For stock engines, that’s all you need.
I want to move to a thicker oil in a 2006 gmc sierra. It recommends 5w30 could you use 5w40 or 0w40
Yes
My 5.0 f150 is recommended 5w-20 in the us and Canada, but is recommended 5w-30 in the Mexican version. My vehicle is higher mileage and vibrated a lot. I ran 0w-30 and most of the unusual vibrations went away. I now exclusively use 0w-30 or high quality 5w-30. Timing chain sounds a lot happier too 😂
fordteck manudko says to use 5-30
I have a 2018 Camry V6 (the current generation) and I live in a mostly hot climate all year round. The dealer recommended me to use 5w30 and if I wanted to go for 10w40 (which they used on my car when I didn’t know better lol) there wouldn’t be a problem. Toyota engines can accept wider range of oil viscosity. I was shocked when I found out that US spec Toyota models use 0w20 oil. I have been using 5w30 full synthetic and for years and no problems whatsoever. 0w20 is too thin for that engine in my opinion.
Just use what the manufacturer recommends. Pretty simple.
Exactly, unless you are the manufacturer. If you’re shopping for a ring package, the engine probably didn’t come with a car and a warranty. 😉
My 6.2 in my 2022 GMC Sierra calls for 0W-20, but my 2019 Corvette, 6.2 ZO6 uses 0W-40. I live in S. Texas. Can I run a higher viscosity oil in my truck?
Yes, a 5W-30 is certainly a safe option.
Mr. Lake Speed , my 2023 Lexus IS 350 calls for a 0 W 20 . The owners manuel says that if I drive at high speeds or pull heavy loads , I may use a thicker viscosity oil . Can I use say a 0 W 30 or a 5 W 30 oil , will it be safe . Thank you Sir for your tlme and the video . May God bless you .
Go with the 0W-30 if you see the 0W-20 is not working. The way to know is via used oil analysis.
@TotalSeal Thank you Sir, for taking the time to answer my question and for the information. May God bless you.
If you drive like crazy constantly revving your engine in the red zone, then go for 0w30 or even 0w40 as the difference between 20 and 30 is not that high - again it differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, and for sportier applications 40 would be a better choice. If you drive normally, stick to 20 as the manufacturer recommends. 20 is for regular driving mode like 90% of people have going to work and from work without sporty ambitions. If you really load your engine hard revving it near red zones, you definitely have to go for thicker oil.
Please advise. I have a 6.0 ls with a high lift cam and ls7 lifters and typical mods to go with. Bearings are factory..etc Engine builder advised 10w40 conventical only. Being that lower end was not changed and I dont race it, could I not use 10w30. What oil viscosity do you recommend?
With stock bearing clearances, go with a semi synthetic 10W-30.
@@TotalSeal Thanks!
Cool to see the Olds head...
My car calls for 0w20 but i live in az where as now temperatures stays around 90-100 and later on summer we usually reach 120 so i use 5w30 it is ok? Or should i go back to 0w20?
0w20 oil could have something to do with variable valve timing, I think.
What's the problem? I just use the oil viscosity that's listed in the owner's manual and/or on the oil fill cap.
That works for stock engines, but not for modified engines.
I switched to 10W-30 in my 2.4 L engine in my jeep renegade from the 0W 20 to attend W-2 and if I can’t find a 10W-30 I’ll use a 5W-30 I could understand using 0W 20 or 0W 30 if your daytime high is only in the high 50s or low 60s And then below zero at night time
I have a vw 3cyl that has done 30k mls that runs 0-20W 9k changes! Have not had to add any oil and still very clean looking at change surely that cannot be bad ?
You should never try to go that long between oil changes, radical environmentalists and cheap skates be dammed.
Sir Speed, great info here. I may have dunced up on a few oil changes . Used one manufacturers "25000" mile oils to around 20k
On my '11 Tacoma 4.0 l 1GR-FE engine. On cold (35*f ) starts , sounds like my vvti rattles. Thinking I may have sludged my oil passages , I am using HPLUBRICANTS high ester blend oil to reduce it. Seems better. Always use either Mobil 1 or Toyota filters. Any chance you'd do a test on this company's products? They are out of Manteno Illinois. Thanks for your hard work!
Thanks for sharing
Please help this conundrum..... "hotter oil gets thinner"...as a general rule, yet for multi-grade oils like 5W-30.....the base oil is 5 weight to allow better flow at low temps, but with its viscisity improvers it acts like a heavier 30 weight oil when at higher operating temps. In this arguement, the oil is thicker as it warms. Can you offer guidance on this apparent contradiction..... for better understanding?
Watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/48pviPLgaPQ/v-deo.htmlsi=2PD023A8q9MJDFMN
@@TotalSeal ....I fully understand W is for "Winter" and not "Weight", but presenting the question this way helps for presenting the question. I viewed the details of the vid but it goes into arcane testing details and doesn't really address the core question. Let try this way---> a 5W-30 oil acts as a "5" ( lower viscosity) oil to help cold-weather flow....yet it acts as a "30" ( higher viscosity) oil, when warmed up...like a straight "30" oil...all done by using additives and viscosity improvers. A "30" oil will flow with more resistance through passages than a "5" oil.....like it was "thicker". Yet the common convention says oil get thinner when hotter. Can someone distill down the core thinking behind this ??????
Let's explain in a simple way. Oil thins out in higher temp, that's a fact. Imagine single grade oil at sae 5, it will have a viscosity of let's say 60cSt @ 40°C and 3cSt @ 100°C. Another single grade oil at sae 30 will have a visc of let's say 90cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C. The sae 5 oil is what you need during a cold start but at normal operating temp that oil will be too thin. In contrast, the sae 30 oil is too thick during cold start although it is at good visc for normal operating temp. This is where 5w30 multigrade oil comes in. It has sae 5 visc grade at low temp and has sae 30 visc grade at high temp i.e. 60cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C.
I rounded cSt values to nearest integers for easier understanding.
@@wandy4468....I guess that is what I was angling for....a (say) 5W-30 is basically 5 weight "core" oil.....with lots of viscosity improvers to allow it to behave like a 30 weight when "warmed".
@@TheWilferchbut don't forget that oil gets thinner when temp raises. Now you can google "oil viscosity graph" where Y-axis is visc (cSt) n X-axis is temp. You'll notice what I mean. And multigrade oil is just a crossing line of two single grade oils which otherwise parallel to each other.
I switched my '16 Corolla to 5w30 from 0w20 at 200K miles. Now, I don't have to add a quart to quart and a half every 5K miles, my car is quieter, and the efficiency is the same for me. Owner's manuals in other countries list MULTIPLE grades for the exact same engines. This "0w20 only" nonsense is only a sop to the EPA/Feds, and I love that people refuse to accept this as per their programming.
I read a thread on a Ferrari forum a number of years ago where they were talking about oil temps and viscosity for road course use. They came up with the conclusion of using a thinner (not drastically) oil if your oil temps are high as some of that heat is being generated by the shearing action of the oil while it is doing its job as a hydrodynamic bearing...and they noticed the temps decrease over the course of a 20-30 minute session on track. Was there something else at play here?
Nope, they were on the money. A slightly lower viscosity oil can reduce oil temperatures significantly!
Makes me want to rethink my Jeep 4.0 and just run 10W-30 instead of 5w-40 year round here in Arizona.
I'm in TX. I have found that 0w-40 is a really good solution. M1 is really thin for a a 40wt, if you want that.
@@DBravo29er I’ve been really happy with Valvoline HM 5w-30 so far, no more click tapping at start up anymore.
@@dad3562 that's a good, thick for grade oil. It's on the heavy end of the 30wt range. If we used half weight ratings, it would be a 35 weight oil all day. 👍
@@DBravo29er no way it is?! For real, I didn’t know that! Crap, now I have to Google it to confirm. I seriously did not know that!
@@dad3562 Yeah the KV100 and HTHS are pretty robust. It's good oil
Funny how the exact same motor from the exact same manufacturer working in the exact same temperature range and climate has 2 different requirements for oil weight and add pac.
How do you find out what your main bearing clearance is?
The chart is sort of ambiguous. For instance my Honda K20C1, has a main bearing range of 0.0007 up to 0.0019, and it can vary from 1st position to 5th position on the same crank. Judging by the chart that means for 160-220F, the viscosity range is from 0W10 up to 10W30. Well...which is it? You see where I'm going? So going off the chart alone doesn't necessarily work completely...it kinda points you in a direction, but doesn't itself provide an answer.
My vehicle is 21 years old now, use what the manual says. 5w30. It recommends 0w30 or synthetic 5w30 if it gets below a certain temp in the winter, so I just use synthetic 5w30 year round. Used 0w30 one time, just wasn't impressed much by it or it's higher price.
Remember when the owners manual would list different motor oils you can use depending on your environment. Why don't they do that.
i use 5w-30 for my g37 and i’m burning oil do I use a thicker oil or thinner , and no i don’t have a leak
Do an engine flush with liquid Molly
Thank you Again MOG! WITHOUT correct lubrication and filtering correctly your doomed to fail. Like the old TV commercial you pay me now! Or pay alot more later it never pays to cut corners on lubrication. Do have a resource for someone who is good with ignition upgrades? I wa t to go distriborless on a 5.9 magnum using LS1 GM ignition coils an you make a recommendation please.
I’m not sure who to recommend for that.
I need help!! I just bought a used 2018 Camaro, V6, 3.6 liter... the cap says 5w-30, HOWEVER GM supposedly made an update to use 0w-40. I am confused what to use?!?! Mobil one says use 0w-40, Royal purple, valvoline and Penzoil specify 5w-30
For the V6, the Dexos 1 5W-30 is fine.
@@TotalSeal Cool, Thank you!!
I don't know the bearing clearences😢in my 305 it was rebuilt by someone else may need to stick with a 40 weight because it is in the middle
Good choice!
Ive heard engine masters hosts finnegin saying to make more power you cool the engine coolant,,, run colder water after a test dyno run to cool engine ,,, but leave the hot engine oil (runs quicker,, more thin) to get more hp from following test. So coolder coolant but hotter oil
Yep, cold water and hot oil makes more power than hot water and cold oil.
Toyota states in their owners manual that a higher viscosity idk can be used in high load conditions. So you can use 5W-30 if car calls for 0W-20 without voiding the warranty.
Thanks for sharing!
What do you recommend for a fresh 6.0 ls 78/75 turbo. Im running 10w30 for break in. It has 58psi cold but when it is 205 at idle its 28psi. Wondering if i should put a restriction in the oil feed line on the turbo
I would love to see you guys build an engine and run it 500K mile on a Dyno with different visocisity oils repeatedly and weight and measure every part before you assemble the engine then after. Use a calibrated anylitcal scale to measure every part before and after. This way we can see how the chain wears, lifters wear, cams wear, bearings wear with each oil. Check for chain stretch etc.....
I wish we could do that as well.
Simple.!! If u live where it's cold use a thinner oil. If u live where it's hot use a thicker oil. Change your oil every 5 thousand miles.
I use Lucas Oil Stabilizer on every oil change on my 21 old Mazda Protege 5, takes 10W30 - 160k miles, no issues at all 🤞
Well i had 698,714 KM (434,160.8 miles) on a 1991 VW Turbo Diesel and never used any additives at all. My car was totaled by an a-hole, who ran a Red light. The engine had been still running great and never touched other than timing belt(s) and a couple glow plugs. I stuck to the 8000KM oil changes recommended by VW, drove 220-230 KM per day 5 days a week to work and back. Bought an '86 VW TD with the same engine to replace my totaled VW and put over 750,000KM on it before i retired. The '91 was bought new, the '86 had 229,000KM on it when i bought it.
@@KStewart-th4sk Old ones proofed to be a better quality... sorry to hear you had an accident and had to total the car, I would be mad as H.... I just replaced valve cover gasket on my 02 Mazda and engine is mirror clear, that Lucas additive does the job along with good quality oil.... I did had VW too previously, Jetta MK4 2.0, sold it under 200k miles, some few sensors needed to be replaced but was still running good.... Drive safe ✌️
Could use some sound deadening in that tin can. Thanks for the info
You bet
For most drivers, use the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer. Use a high-quality synthetic, change it and the filter every 3,000 miles, drive gently, and a well-built vehicle will last a long, long time.
Changing synthetic oil at 3,000 is what morons do
The problem is my car has 200k miles and my oil gets very hot.. 218°f/103°c and I drive mainly city miles.. wouldn't I be better off running 0w40 at these temps?
I know many of the recommended weights by manufacturers are really thin for emissions and economy and in other countries they direct the owners of the same engines to run thicker oils so you need to really know what is best for your engine…
Oil weight aside, oil changes at 3k miles with modern oils, let alone full synthetic, is a complete waste of oil and money. Don’t do that. It certainly won’t hurt your engine, just your wallet. But, it won’t help either.
@@torchmd I was thinking on an Rv or heavy truck 3k is good (especially an RV, where it takes years to put 3k miles on it) but on a car maybe 5-6k…
I have some questions about which oil to use in new race motor. I was recommended to use Driven oils but am getting a couple of mixed messages as to which one will suit the motor best. Is there any way of contacting you directly to get your thoughts?
Call the folks at Driven.
@@TotalSeal I'm in Australia and while that's not too much of a problem, part of my question has to do with info from my machinist/engine builder AND an Oil Rep at Driven. Both recommended a different Driven oil product so I'm not quite sure which advice to follow.
@@333pg333 What's your application? Which products are both recommending?
@@TotalSeal It's a highly modified alu block Porsche 968 turbo engine for Time Attack that runs on race grade E85 only. It has been sleeved with Darton MiD sleeves which are a thick ductile iron product. The engine builder and machinist (who installed the sleeves) gave me a chart for the XP6 line of oils. Based on clearances you select which weight to go for. But when I contacted Joe Gibbs oils one of their Reps said this: “I chose the GP-1 15W-40 for a couple of reasons. The 15W-40 is a better fit for your main bearing clearance, your front and rear bearings were a bit tighter than the rest, but I would recommend going to the heavy side in line with the centre mains. I did not consider the XP for your application because the XP has very little detergent and virtually no corrosion protection package. XPs are formulated for applications that are disassembled and inspected after every event.” When I looked at what type of cars GP-1 was recommended for it ranges across quite a few different purposes. From racecars to street rods. Whereas it looks like the XP-6 is for drag type applications where the motors are torn down after each event. Do you think I'm reading this correctly? ps...thanks for even responding. Much appreciated. Oh ps..before this motor was sleeved we used to run a 60w oil so I get nervous when seeing people recommend 40w product. But I don't know what the clearances were for the last iteration prior to sleeving.
@@333pg333 Go with the GP-1, but use the 20W-50 instead of the 15W-40.
My Corolla fuel economy was fantastic 1028 km for 38 litres.
After the first service
960 to 970 km
I have become a little bit more heavy footed because I wasn’t running the engine in.
So that could be a contributing factor.
But I discovered that Toyota has been putting 0w-20.
Can you please explain why 5w30 oil is more expensive then 5w40. While 5w40 is supposedly to suit better for older engines. And the 40 weight has better oil film through additives?
Like a 10w60 race oil is for high performance engines. In my thought a 5w40 ia better for an old bmw m54 engine then 5w30 for running prolonged high engine revs like between 5000 and 6000 for more then 1 hour?
I hope you can shed some light on this??
The pricing question is for the marketing experts. That’s not a technical one.
@@TotalSeal thanks, could you also educate me/us on the 5w30 5w40 VS 10w60 for high rpm load of the engine? Regarding additives engine wear (assume all high quality oils like shell ect c3 and or bmw 10w60?It's an m54 bmw 6cyl.
More ppl use 5-30 so they jack up the price
Yeah but how would one know what the value of the Main Bearing Clearance in our car is?
I have a 23 wrx an my manuel say 0w20 can use 5w30 if other not available but in everyother country there sold other than U.S. manuel says 5w30 what would you run?
I have the same car. I run 0-20 in winter months. I run 5-30 in spring,,summer and fall,, but I will say. I get much better MPG with the 0-20.
Unless you live above Arctic circle or depth of Death Valley during a heat wave 10-30 is fine.
According to their chart. I should be putting 10 weight oil in my car that calls for 5w30 and says 5w40 can be used…..
same as that chart says my truck should get 0w20. Where my owners manual says 20w50 can be used. Sooooo idk man