Understanding Synthetic Motor Oils And Why Most Full Synthetic Oils Are Petroleum Based
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2014
- We briefly describe why most full synthetic motor oils purchased at the local auto parts store contain little or no synthetic base stocks. Also, we review the 5 categories of base stocks as defined by the American Petroleum Institute and the advantages of each.
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They need to start labeling oil packaging as Group 1 2 3 4 or 5. At least we know what we're buying
It's really a RICO conspiracy. None of them will admit to the Group, even the Group 4/5 makers. Better than politicians on answers. You have to go on the oil forums and get answers. The oil companies want you to be dumb.
I think I give up, the whole mess seems so rotten and corrupt it would make a person suspect congress must be involved.
What’s ignored here is that most synthetics nowadays are Group III+ which have equal or rival performance compared to a PAO “true synthetic”. PAO is old synthetic base oil formulation. Not meaning it’s inferior, just that the modern Group III lubricants are very competitive and offer a sometimes superior product versus PAO. As mentioned, additives are the most important part of any fully formulated engine oil.
Not true. Group 3 is marginally better than 1 or 2. Group 4 has readily determinable superior qualities.
People really waste too much time thinking about motor oil. I'm old and drive an ordinary passenger car. I do keep my cars for decades and do much of my own basic maintenance, including oil changes. I do them every 5K using cheap, conventional oil of the correct viscosity and API (ILSAC) ratings. I've had my current Lexus for 20 years. None of my cars has ever had any sort of oil-related issues. None required additional oil between changes. The heads have never been off any of them. No problems. Conventional oil has done everything required of a motor oil in all of my vehicles. Simple as that.
You are correct. All passenger cars/light duty trucks are fairly easy on engine oil even under severe driving condition, compared to racing applications. As long as you use an API certified motor oil that meets the specification of the vehicle, you will be fine. To be quite honest, I'm the type of person that spends a good amount of time reading the nitty gritty information about different brand's proprietary formulations, elemental properties, and types of base stocks whether its conventional, synthetic blend, full synthetic (highly refined petroleum) and even 100% (man-made) synthetic. The engine won't care what brand or type of oil you pour into the oil sump, only the owner cares. Even though it is scientifically proven that full synthetic is better than conventional in every aspect (setting price aside), everyone has a preference and as long as the oil is changed when neccesary, you will be fine even when using conventional. 80%-90% of cars are on the road are not high performance orientated.
Steve H.
All these people write about how oils in their cars, make no difference if changed every 5k. When I was an owner operator, I had no where to plug my truck in at, and it started EVERY time with Amsoil, their true synthetic doesn't get thick when it gets cold, and would let my Cummins turn over fast enough to start.
You remind me of an old farmer I met at a county fair that stuck his thumbs into his armpits & said: "I've got good water: I've got well water". I guess ignorance is bliss.
@@jaywinters2483 Almost 26 yrs now with my Lexus and still no oil-related problems or significant consumption between changes.
Very good explanation.
Ok first, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Second, it would be a much more practical and easily applied if you actually referenced the different oil brands and stated which was what. This likely won't help the average consumer much...
Too my knowledge , their are only 2 companys that offer a 100 percent synthetic Motor. oil , and that is Amsoil and Motul . Did you see the video by repairvehicle ?.
I believe he said he worked for a lubrication manufacturing company so he probably wouldn't do that
Thank you for this very useful information which is generally difficult to find...
Good information
Thanks mister, regards.
i love the pauses at 4:02 and 4:16. This guy is seems honest and you could full rant at both of thoes points. @4:02 ''...you cheap SOB how could you call y'r self a real car guy!'' @4:16 ''...garbage sludge P/OCRAP...'' 😂 Best oil video ever. I'm buying what he's sell'n!
Will MPT oil void my new car warranty? My manual says to only use API Certified oil. MPT does not have the API Seal on the bottle. I really want to try this in my new Honda Civic but I don’t want my warranty voided.
I selected MPT Thirty K 0W40 for my turbocharged vehicle. I have heard ok and not so ok stories about this general topic relative to this specific brand. My engine calls for an API: "SN+" or "SP" classification oil, however I have chosen to go with a regular "SN" classification. The main worry about my engine from the manufacturer standpoint is "LSPI" or low Speed Pre-Ignition... also known as detonation. Detergent additives (calcium) in certain oils help cause this issue in small displacement fired induction. ZDDP helps counteract LSPI. These oils are supposed to have elevated levels of ZDDP (Zinc/Phosphate) to help protect my bucket tappets and main bearings. Too much will kill your catalytic converter. SN+/SP oils substitute the ZDDP and Calcium altogether with Boron and/or MOs2 (moly) and are generally ACEA C2 or C3 rated (mid tier level detergent... so not full on levels which would be called A5/B5) I chose this because one, the advertised components and two, the advertised benefits. I am comparing to Liqui Moly "4200" and Castrol 5w30 u.s. I am also curious about Triax SRT for a day to day oil, Amsoil SS 0W40, and Motul. Haven't found a suitable Motul yet, they all have WAY too much calcium (even the lower SAPS variations and I don't want to go with a C1 or C4 oil because wear starts at the HTHS 2.6 mark ) I prefer no lower than a HTHS of 3. NOACK of 8 MAX and ASH content of no more than 1.0... the ADPACK must be compatible with all the internal seals and gaskets.
Thanks for all the great information. I found the video very informative but please wear a solid tie in your next vid...the horizontal brick thing kept messing with my eyes.
I'll continue to use Mobil 1 and orange Fram filters, and change both every ~4K miles. Hundreds of thousands of miles on several cars and no oil problems. I have seen the deposits inside engines run on conventional. No thanks.
I've been using Mobil 1 Extended for a while now and every now and then, Royal Purple on my 2001 Lexus LS430 Ultra Luxury Edition which now has 285,000 miles. Filters are either Mobil 1, Royal Purple K & N, and Bosch. Intervals are between 10,000 to 15,000 miles. To me any sooner than 10k is a waste and utterly unnecessary! The 5k and 3k intervals are of the era prior to the currently vast improvements and developments of decades ago wherein car manufacturers now have recommendations of 10 to 15k. The 2001 Lexus' is 5k which I've ignored since it reaching 50k and switching to synthetic. Perhaps, I could have been using 25k intervals if I've been using Amsoil or other 100% synthetic, or if Mobil 1 has not transitioned down to Castrol's level.
@@jrlossmitse490 our newer cars, like 2010+ can probably go longer. The oil looks pretty clean when I change it. My early 2000s and 1992 and 1986 ones though, its dirty at 4K and if I run it to 5K the level starts dropping. I think the oil gets thinned out.
@@robertbell525 Oh I see. Probably due a combination of older engine designs, oil composition, and oil filter materials and designs. Back then, oil change intervals were at 3k, then at 5k miles. Nowadays, most engines clearances are much tighter, oils are more sophisticated, and filters are more efficient and longer lasting.
Gram oil filters? U may as well use a coffee filter, they are the shit that shit is made of
@@kevinschrader5 Nah, been using them for 30 years, never a problem
I want to correct my mistake. The lawsuit between Mobil and Castrol was in 1998.
Good video
Thank you for telling the truth ive been saying this for a decade after finding out and shame on mobil 1 its why i switched to Amsoil Signature Series atleast i know with them and that line im getting group 4 and 5 synthetic oil.
Well done sir thanks
Informative. Would you know what group Liquid Moly would fall into?
3/4.
Group 3
I want more information on your 100% synthetic motorcycle oil ! Is it better than amsoil or the same??? 08753
basically we have let lawyers to determine what is synthetic oil or not. It's just a play on the word 'synthetic' It's sad that mobil had sunk down to Castrol's level to market type III as synthetic oil but I can't really blame them, mobil knows the population are too dumb to to be educated and uses price as their buying guide. Cheaper price + slick wording sells. 95% of population still think all synthetic oil are the same
Prior to watching videos like this , I"ve noticed that mobile 1 is not the same as it use to be, starting with the smell .
You are right , it is a shane that the company would stoop to the same level as its competition that lowered the standard .
does it hurt my vehicle to change from full synthetic engine oil( petroleum bases oil) to 100% synthetic oil(synthetic based oil)?
of course not.
Synthetics really are the way to go I've built a lot of motors I seen a 300,000 mile motor ran on mobile one synthetic 10k to 15k mile oil changes and it still was in factory specs still had the hone marks on the cylinder walls from the factory no copper in the main bearings absolutely beautiful inside could have kept going on the flip side I've seen 80 90,000 mile Motors that had run conventional their whole life and the mains were worn out copper showing worn down camshaft profiles sloppy egg-shaped cylinders after all that I've seen I'm sold on synthetics for the life I've seen it with my own eyes in building Motors and the days of 3k or 5k mi oil changes are over! Amsol can go 25k and I have sent samples to Blackstone labs that prove it.
Oil manufacturers have become "snake oil" salesmen. No surprise here. In years past, Penzoil/Quaker State oils have had a bad rep for turning to sludge when mixed w/ other, non-paraffin-based oils. Similar to what happens when mixing Dexcool w/ other coolants, you get sludge build-up in your cooling system and it quite often clogs the heater core. Anyone know if this is still the case w/ their "synthetic" oils?
Not sure about Quaker State...but Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum are made from natural gas and thus more pure vs every other(and past Pennzoil synthetics) oil made from crude oil..synthetic or not.
group III are hydrocracked not just refined.
Germany is the only country in the world that doesn't allow labeling 100% synthetic on any motor oil not made of 100% synthetic base stock.
The end of the story!
is ester oil good for flat tappet engines or vtwin? or stay with higher zinc oil?
No use high zink oils for flat tappet engines trust me I've built a lot of motors the flat tappet valve train really needs a high zinc oil even hydraulic lifter camshafts need a higher zinc oil during break-in I've seen a lot of camshafts wiped from people using cheaper oil that had low zinc contents use synthetics like Mobil 1 or Amsoil the engines I've built that have been run on those oils are ridiculously good looking inside clean not worn out I rebuilt a 302 that had 300,000 miles on it used Mobil 1 synthetic since its first oil change at 5,000 Mi and it still had the factory hone marks on the cylinder walls the bearings were showing no Copper at all everything spec'd out to be a good running reliable engine it could have went farther!!! Ever since then I was sold on synthetics
If motor oil companies were governed by the same level of standards as the FDA puts on the food and drug industries, this kind of thing would never fly (no pun intended). I've listened to a couple of videos on this topic today and I find it all to be a bunch of techno double speak to me, Mister average consumer. I guess only petroleum engineers are allowed to know what kind of oil they're putting in their car--and are paying exorbitant prices for.
Edward Krzynowek Go to HumbleMechanic on UA-cam. Check out the one that has a rep from Germany explaining oils. He talks about oils being recipes. He represents Liqui Moly motor oils from Germany.
The FDA has approved many products that caused brain damage, paralysis, complications, or even death. At the same time, its 10-18 year approval process has denied many patients access to life saving medicines, technologies, and treatments, leading to the deaths of hundreds of thousands of Americans. In my experience, private accreditation, inspection, and standards groups (UL, ABS, IEEE, etc) have maintained both better and more realistic standards, and that is why those who are in the know use private agencies when they're spending their own money.
The best oil is clean oil.
True.
My Tacoma with 94k that’s had diets of Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, and now Halvoline Pro DS with Napa Gold filters should be breaking down any day now…
For what it's worth, I wrote to Castrol and asked if their oil labeled Full Synthetic was actually made from Synthetic base oil or Petroleum base oil. They said their "Full Synthetic" oil is made from 100% Synthetic base oil. So unless they just straight up lied about it I reckon in that case Full Synthetic and 100% Synthetic are synonymous.
Buck--- I would like to see something in writing about Castrol being 100% synthetic. I think they would have that on the container. The clue is in the price.(should be $14/qt.)
If I still had it I would post the letter they sent me, I'm sure if you send them an e-mail asking about it they will send you something similar to what they sent me.
Thank you Buck. If you can buy a five qt. jug for $30, It isn't Group IV or V. That is your proof.
When questioning is not using the word "synthetic" since the ruling in 1999 said that if the oil is hydrocracked then they can use the word synthetic to describe their oil. The word "synthetic" is so convoluted.You need to ask if the base oil is TYPE III OR TYPE IV OR TYPE V OIL or ask if the oil is PAO which is TYPE IV oil. If they still its synthetic then they are trying to cover up that is type III oil.
So how come they don’t say 100% synthetic on there jug? It’s because they can’t look on any of the ones that make the claim full synthetic and see if 100% is listed on there product! Only then if that’s listed are you truly getting a full synthetic oil!
I still don't know which synthetics are made from group 4 or 5.
Hi Gerald----- Amsoil "signature series " is 100% synthetic and group4 PAO
Redline is group 5 ( Polyol Esters) but may not be 100% syn. (Listed as full synthetic, not 100%)
I believe Motul is Ester based also. group v.
MPT oils. I"m going to order some next time I need a change. their synthetics say they use 0 mineral oils and are a mix of group 4 and 5. their "Thirty-K" oil says you can go 30k miles between changes.
I think he was hinting at that if it says 100% synthetic then it's mostly made from groups 4 and 5. if the jug says esters it's a group 5. he didn't go into talking about esters but they cling to metal, lubricate more with more force applied to them, are not affected by heat or cold. and like he was hinting at ester based oils are so good they don't require a lot of the additives other oils require to even hold up for normal use. right now in time they are the best you can have.
brands like mpt, motul, maxima racing, yamalube, Belray all use esters.
If it says 100% Synthetic as opposed to Full Synthetic, it's a group 4. The full synthetics are all group 3 hydrocracked petroleum based. They are still excellent oils and are cheaper generally than the group 4 100%
@@garymiller2056 thanks for the info. They should never have allowed group 3 oils to be labeled full synthetic because they are not. Cha-ching for the oil industry
@@AikidoTubeSock it is all marketing terms. Look up the court case of Mobil 1 vs Castrol 1999.
" PRICE is a good consideration " ???
Yes you are right I just bout a 2018 Tacoma why don't I just pour some used oil in it from jiffy lube the vehicle as the truck is only $ 42,000 .
OR I could put AMSOIL in it and in the transmission and rear and get 2 mpg more so it pays for it's self......how is that for price costing nothing in the end.
I already use what bob from the pro racing team engine builders use Marvel Mystery OIl in the gas and crank for winter protection in arctic Canada.
I get anther 5 mpg highway and city.
So I'm super protecting my investment and I'm $ 600.00 ahead based on 12,000 miles a year and no crude shit was used to make sludge and friction worse.
Been using Amsoil for about 10 year but recently changed to MPT oil so really interested to see how this oil performs and so far so good!
VILLEGAS76able just regressed.
So basically oil is basically oil, and basically is basically basic, or is basic basically?
I use dino valvoline. Great results, great price too.
Groups 1-2-3 are pertrolium base Hydrocrack oils, groupe 4 PAO oil. Germany has very strikt transparancy laws protecting the consumer whereby only PAO OILS may be marketed as Fully Synthetic Oil, all others are markt as Synthetic or HC Synthetic Oil. What oil to choose is stated in the Owners Manual.
Hi Mark, I believe only group III is Hydrocracked. Hydro meaning hydrogen.
Only thing to consider is that car manufacturers recommend oils with a zero viscosity on the low end to help them meet gov. standards. Which are not designed for the owner of the vehicle.
Thats why don't buy amsoil just buy liqui moly, motul and total 😁
@@malikulamin9948 AMSOIL Signature Series is a high quality true premium 100% synthetic oil that is synthesized not just refined, meaning it is chemically broken completely apart and reformulated with only the necessary good components and eliminating the undesirable ones to make oils work specificlly as they need to be.
Formulated with group IV & V bases like just a very few of the other oils out there. Most so called full synthetics in this country are group III petroleum highly refined oils
MPT is quite probably a very good product. I haven't have any experience with them so.
I believe that your research is not accurate. I started using and buying Amsoil and Mobil 1 in the early seventies. The lawsuit between Mobil and Castrol about labeling full synthetics was from the early seventies, not 1999. Castrol won the lawsuit and the court said that as long as Castrol had a certain percentage of synthetic in their oil, that they could label the entire batch as synthetic. Mobil wanted the courts to only allow an oil to be labeled as synthetic if it was 100% synthetic. What class is Pennzoil synthetic in? It does not use any petroleum as a base stock since it is entirely created from natural gas.
I asked AMOIL AND THEY ADVERTISE FULL SINTHECTIC.BUT WHEN ASKED IF
THEY ARE GROUP FOUR or FIVE THEY SAY ITS A SECRET. I BELIEVE IT NOT
FULL SYNTHECTIC OIL. THEY WONT TELL THE PUBLIC???
Amsoil SS
Which friggin oils are full 100% synthetic then?
Amsoil SS is. Castrol and mobil are not
Pretty sure Schafer is, but they only sell 100% synthetic in 35 or 55gal drums. Their blended is sold by the quart. Their oil is in a lot of fleets that run on alternative fuels. I ran it for 3 years, just not sold in many stores. Golden Spectro is another excellent oil, handles heat very well. Example, if you have an air cooled motorcycle this is the only oil I'd recommend other than Amsoil's motorcycle oil.
It really doesn't matter. It is all marketing terms to separate you from your money. Change your oil often and all is good.
All the major brands have PAO GROUP IV OIL, I suspect it would have to be ordered as it is pricy and not much in demand outside of racing and industrial use.
@@markwarnberg9504 I wonder if the mobil 1 15w50 race proven oil still has some pao in it?....it has 1300 ppm of zinc and 1200 ppm phosphorus even though it's sn rated per their web....guess they can do that because it's not a certified oil...too heavy.it gets fantastic reviews....some guys have used it in regular automobiles and trucks since new and bragged about how well it performed...even great mpg.
Synthetic is a great marketing tool. Upu have a choice yo pay more.
What I came here for is which has better lubricity!
I use dino
I’m not a scientist, full synthetics from all the easily available brands works fine. I don’t plan to be a scientist either. A car is a car is a car.
One word: Amsoil
Amsoil isn’t Ester. It’s a Group 4 oil. MPT is Ester and a Group 5.
Know the difference between full synthetic and 100% synthetic and you understand this scam. Amsoil and red line are 100 % synthetic. Mobil 1 is a full synthetic oil.
Redline is not 100% Synthetic and they are not allowed to write 100% on their bottle so they write “All Synthetic” or “Full Synthetic.”
Canroyal is the best, 100% virgin base.
whether you want conventional or synthetic go with quaker state, they looked at new York city cabs that had over 500,000 miles, that uses quaker state and their engines were still in great condition, i would never use a different oil, my father is an auto mechanic, and that's all he uses also!
TheRedtaz Liqui Moly oils from Germany. You can Google this.
TheRedtaz
Hey idiot. . i know mechanics that only use Mobil 1 and Castrol and say Quaker state sucks balls
you call me an idiot from a key board, you're brave.
total quartz motor oil
WhaWhaWhaWha
I can’t be the only one here realizing my whole life is a lie
Simple. All the syn oils are Group 3 except Royal Purple, AMSOIL and Redline which are PAO syn base oils. Easy to tell the difference. Group 3 oils are 4-5 bucks a quart and Group 4 are $10.00 a quart. Group 5 is for jets, where Group 3 would vaporize in seconds. It's the temp stability that you are paying for. If you run an HP or Turbo engine, Group 4 would be best. I have 3 Prius and I use Group 3 but change it every 5k. A Prius is not hard on oil. I often use the O'Rielly house brand on sale. Sorry, Mobil 1 Fanboys. The oil they use in race cars is Euro-Spec Group 4, not weeny crap Group 3 sold here. The guy here has the truth.
Royal Purple may be $10 a quart, but it's only Group 3 oil.
Stanny 1 good stuff sir but you're incorrect on one thing, group 5 is not just for " jets". I use a motul group 5 100 percent ester oil , motorcycle specific , that is it's MADE to be used in motorcycles, for my sportbike when I'm on the racetrack. Good article though. Thank you
Thanks. The top 3 American "real Syns" are actually a combo of Groups 4 and 5. The German Motul and Liqui-Moly are supposedly Group 5 Esters. You are treating your bike really well. Esters and PAO each have strengths and weaknesses so usually you will have both in the formula. Jet oils are really high ester because the bearings have no cooling system and high PAO oils will deteriorate quickly. I wouldn't use a Group 3 if I had a turbo, towed or raced, but most Americans are fooled by the words "Full Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" and "Synthetic" which have no meaning in the U.S. are are simply marketing terms. So they buy a Group 3 and pay Group 4 prices and think it's what they use in race cars. But the Mobil 1 they use in race cars is high ester/PAO and has no detergent and drained after every race and like George Carlin said: "It's a Big Club, and you're not in it". It's not the stuff in the store, and the race oil is more like Mobil 1 you bought before 1997, before they took out the expensive synthetic base oil and didn't reduce the price. If Group 3 is what you are buying, just save money and buy Kirkland Syn at Costco, Supersyn at Walmart, MAG 1 or Amazon Basics at Amazon. All made by Warren Distributing and is rated SN+. About $3.00 a quart. And that's what Group 3 Syn is worth. Don't pay $8.99 for Castrol Syntech or Penzoil Platinum. If you want to pay that much, buy a Group 4 like REDLINE, AMSOIL Signature, or Royal Purple. Or Motul or Liqui-Moly but it's harder to find unless you live in the Euro car community. In Germany and Japan, if the label says "Synthetic", it must be at least a Group 4. That's "Truth in Advertising".
If it says Fully Synthetic then it’s Group 3. There’s a reason why they don’t write 100% on their bottles. They are prohibited by law because the are Group 3. Only Group 4 and 5 are 100%. Group 5 is 100% Ester. Redline might have Ester in their formula but they also have petroleum in it as well. That’s why their bottles do not say 100%. There’s only a few bottles I’ve seen that say 100%. Motul, Amsoil, MPT and Torco are the only ones I know of.
There is no legal definition of the terms "Synthetic", "100% Synthetic" or "Full Synthetic". They are just marketing terms that any Group 3,4,5 manufacturer can use. In Germany and Japan. any oil labeled "Synthetic" must be a Group 4 minimum. Redline, RP and AMSOIL Signature are Group 4/5 combinations. So is Motul and Liqui-Moly but they have more Ester. Group 5 definition includes Ester but can be other compounds as well. Jet Oil is high ester because it can handle high temp. Jet engine bearings have no cooling system. Group 3 Hydrocracked and Molecularly-Modified Dino Oils are superior to Group 2. I use them in my Priuses but a Prius is not hard on oil. I buy Kirkland "Full Synthetic" that costs under $3.00 a quart, costs half that or less to make, and is rated SN+. Same as MAG 1, Amazon Basics, SuperTech (Walmart), all made for Warren. Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge are all Group 3, SN+ rated, sell for outrageous prices compared to real synthetics with real APO and POE bases that cost just a bit more. Use Group 4/5 if you have a turbo, race, or tow. You need the higher flash point. They resist high temps better. They also last longer.
Mobil One full synthetic. Mercedes recommends Mobil One that's good enough for me. I don't care about another $12.00 for the five quart jug. I spend that on a beer at a ball game. People are funny a $40,000 car and use the cheapest oil. What's with that?
Arthur Smith very wise words sir! , And even what you pay for your oil I pay much more for my group 5 motul oil (13.99 a quart).
maybe don't stand in front of your company logo next time.
I stop buying Castro oil.
So called synthetic oil just isn't synthetic at all. If the base oil is crude it's not true synthetic..
When you included highway driving in the stressful driving category you lost most of your credibility.
yes wtf was that?? its like he hes just spouting out big words bs.......
He just looked really nervous. He reminds me of me when I was in college and I had to write a report and announce it to the class. I would actually once in a while say words that didn't make sense but no one caught it and let me go. I was just so nervous, even though I was telling the truth mostly. Just some kind of bullshit lie instinct or something. This guy might just experiencing those kind of moments but unless he comments back to my reply, we will never know lol.
Highway driving gets the engine very hot, and it’s when a large amount of oil evaporation occurs.
ENGINE OIL!
The only 100% synthetic motor oil is Amsoil.
Motul is 100% synthetic as well
Also only the "Signature Series is 100% (PAO) Amsoil
Pete C... you fucking moron.... even after watching the video where the guy literally explains everything... you STILL get it so wrong!. This isn't rocket science!
Group III, IV and V are all labeled as "Synthetic". Amsoil sell all THREE types of oil, you ignorant jackass.
Group IV = PAO (poly-alpha-olefin)
Group V = POE (Poly-ol-ester)
Only Group IV and V are considered "true synthetics". Group V is better than Group IV... which is better than Group III... which is better than Group II. So who gives a shit if its labeled "Synthetic" or not. Group IV and V are both synthetic... and ones better than the other.
Pete C Redline is one hundred percent synthetic.
When you make that type of statement without any supporting info it's simply hearsay-nothing more!
This is the worst sequence of babble from someone who apparently doesn't have a clue about their topic that I have seen in a long time. Learn the API groups and requirements. This is fundamental. Buy a shirt that fits you, and stop distracting from your topic with unnecessary hand movement. If you want to promote your product then show us all of your field test data, wear data, full laboratory testing numbers and all sequences that are used for certification. This full syn/100% syn nonsense is getting ridiculous.
This is a waste of time. Majority of us daily drivers don’t need this BS.