😂ELI5 version. It's funny too because rings (aromatics) are not a great structure to have, as explained in the oxidation segment, but you keep those triangles out!!
@Nick Bouvy - I won't deny that it was intelligent BUT there was a LOT of detail that the average punter simply can't apply after your basic decision to upgrade to synthetic. ( Though with motorbikes synthetic is better for racing or track days & for normal use you end up with a lot of sludge coming out of the end of the exhaust pipes. ) And as for various additives without giving us @ least some idea of how long it preserves oil life, then that's of no use to us!
@@jimlyon7276 if you are getting slug from switching to synthetic , that is the synthetic detergents cleaning the sludge out of the engine as remains from conventional oil.
@@jimlyon7276 also additives allow the oil to keep a consistent viscosity so throughout a wear/use cycle the oil will stay relatively the same viscosity, so that means compared to conventional oil you can use it longer... say 3,000 miles with conventional and 5,000 with synthetic (just rought estimates)
@@Jay-uw9qr - Fair enough! I was just going by hear say from another guy & seeing as I've been trapped in a bikeless wilderness for too many decades thanks to being divorce raped ++ cos my X thought it would be a good diversion from her toxic child hood! So I admit I've got a LOT of catching up to do. So, would you go as far as to say that all synthetic oils are automatically better than any semi synthetic oil?
You don't need metal, just ensure enough fuel oil makes it into the pan to offset the thickening to sludge... oil went into my jeep at 10w40, came out of my jeep 5,000km later as 40w10.
Thank you so much for this series. I've been a diesel mechanic for 14 years and also tinkered with them in general for 30+ years. And Hearing you break down as an engineer the differences of conventional vs synthetic and why its better to flip to synthetic to a level I can mostly understand has been very helpful! I also have pushed my friends and clients to do the same I maintain regularly.
@@WISHBONEL7 Penske Truck Leasing is one place, as I worked there for 14 years and that's the type of oil we put in everything. The rentals, the semis, the Thermo King and Carrier units, etc. But I cant say for other fleet or fleet management centers.
With some chemical processes (hydrogenation) you can actually turn that dinosauce into much more stable molecules, but yes, something like PAO has very good characteristics for use as engine oil.
Jason, thanks for another very helpful video on this subject. As a mechanic, I've been using synthetic oils in all of my own stuff for yearsand have seen, first hand, the benefits in reduced wear and increased life of various things I own. Sometimes it feels like you're swimming against the tide trying to convince people of the many benefits, and fighting the miss information 👌 Keep up the great work
Those not either balls or any other shapes. Google oil molecules, and go for images, You will see chemical molecules drawing. Thats how they looks like. And synthetic is brtter. But not best.
They are "said" to have more TBN modifiers which prevent oil from becoming acidic, volatility modifiers to prevent evaporation. But its better to just change your oil at 5000 or 6000miles. If your engines starts burning oil, you can't have the oil Company pay for it anyway.
Supposed to have additives to "rejuvenate" old seals, as long as your using synthetic there's no real difference though. Valvoline has the exact same part number for both regular and high mileage synthetic just different bottles
We use synthetic because the cost difference is absolutely minimal. I will sometimes use a synthetic blend valvoline maxlife in my old jeep, it tends to slow the small leaks.
No joke, I would appreciate some form of service for educational youtubers to teach university lecturers how to produce engaging video content. I know clever editing is too much to ask for, but simple video structure, pacing and audio quality tips would go a long way!
It's refreshing to listen to an individual who does an excellent job of making a complicated subject easy to understand. Thanks to everyone who made this presentation possible.
I started using Mobil 1 in my Toyota pickup new in 1988. At 100,000 miles I had the valve cover off for lash adjustment and it was clean as a whistle in there! I’ve been hooked since.
2:53 - I know that one. It's where you put oil in the coffee pot and then move it around on the griddle (in case there are any hot spots) for a few hours. 😉
i have had 3 chevy express vans over the years. Have used synthetic every with oil change every 8000km. I have had engines last 500000 to 650 000 kms life.well worth the expense
@@Eltee127 As long as you don't live in Alaska. Synthetic is better for cold starts but in America where its warm conventional oil is just as good in the winter. I only use conventional oil as I drive about 500 miles a year and change the oil once a year.
I'm running out to my cars right now and I'm changing over to synthetic or the cheaper conventional synthetic blend since my cars only used to use conventional Really enjoy watching your videos always learning something new everyday
Thanks for the video Jason I was the guy on your Facebook page telling you about mobil 1 and they’re switched to GF6 , I daily drive a Subaru legacy with the flat six and I’ve been running 530 mobile one from the first oil change, change it every 5000 The engine hardly uses any oil I am at 110,000 right now!
Great video! I'm not convinced on synthetic though. In order for an oil to be considered "Full Synthetic" it only needs 24% polymers in it. Polymers don't do anything for lubrication in my opinion, just fillers. Oil companies save about 60 cents a quart on synthetic but double the price thinking the consumer is getting something special. I'll be convinced when oil companies start listing their ingredients on the bottles like a box of cereal.
I change my car and motorcycle engine's oil each year despite the millage I do using the specs of my maintenance charts with Motul products (oil, coolant and brake fluid), its been 20 years so far and neither of them gave me any type of problems running perfect just by doing regular maintenance.
Congratulations for your explanation. In 1982 I bought a Speede oil change franchisee in México City and our oil provider was Mobil 1. They explain to us all this information with the advantages of using synthetic oil vs mineral oils and always is better use the synthetic one, no matter the climate you have, always follow the viscosity your factory manual say and believe me that you will have easy going a 350 thousand miles engine with no problem at all. The oil in your engine it´s all. It is like the blood in your body.
A lot of good info. Special thanks to Mobil for helping without it becoming a shameless plug for Mobil 1. Of course the real magic is the chemistry in those additives on top of the chemistry in the base oil. Bet we cannot find out as much about how they work. I use a semi synthetic in my 1996 vintage Ecotec and the killer advantage is that it is a 15W 50 oil so the engine is a lot quieter on a cold start while not giving anything away on a 45 degC day. For more demanding jobs the full synthetic is absolutely the right oil. Turbocharging or high revving multivalve thrive on it. It certainly explains why synthetic oil makes engines last longer if it keeps the ring lands clean and lubricated. Apparently synthetics are not recommended for LPG. Don't know if that is still true but back in the 90s I ran a 250 CI falcon on LPG and even then some oils were duds with it while others would run over 8000k and the oil would be like dark honey. I think it was the early synthetics that broke down in the acidic byproducts of LPG combustion. Not sure if the newer ones are ok with it now or not.
Keeping it clutch as always my man. Just bought an 89'f250 w/5.8 5speed After my 2004 GMC 1500 w/ 4.3 5speed lost compression on 4/6 cylinders. I'm really freaked out about oil now and binging information and this video was perfect timing. Keep it coming man, good videos as always !!!
I go 18 to 20,000 miles between oil changes, but you've got to use the filter that's designed for it too. A regular oil filter won't last that long. Can you do a video about the filters that are designed for the full synthetic?
@@kaylakunz8112 Amazon basic fully synthetic oil, and a "Gold" standard oil filter. I'm not particular to one brand of filter, but it's got to be the one that's made for 18,000 miles. a standard filter will clog after 5 to 8000 miles.
Back in the mid 80s, I owned a small car that recommended 5W30 in the engine and 80W90 in the manual shift transmission. I had a half full bottle of Mobile one 5W30 and a half full bottle of Amsoil 80W90 gear oil, both synthetics. It was the middle of winter with temperatures at -38. I left both bottles outside on the balcony overnight. In the morning I brought them back inside and was impressed with how the oil moved back and forth when moving both bottles around. Needless to say, I was glad to have those oils in my car.
I only use synthetic engine oil on all of my cars. Two of them have 90k miles and when you open the oil caps, the engines have no sludge, not even discoloration, and seem to be almost new.
2003 Camry 2.4. Went from conventional, to a synthetic blend with plans on full synthetic next change. The Blend lasted about 6 months before it broke down and the engine got hot, and smoked inside the oil system. Changed it today, completely burnt and black. Couldn't have been more than 2,000 miles. Yes, 2,000 miles and I'm lucky to still have an engine. More info on full synthetic change later.
Does anyone actually still use basic mineral oil based engine oils ?. I used to work for Saab back in the 80's and we introduced Synthetic oil back in 1984. "Saab Turbo Motor oil" as it was badged was actually made by Castrol Engineering for Saab.
good to understand the science behind it. My first car i changed to M1 when I bought it at 100,000km and ran much smoother, and ran problem free till sold it at 260,000km
My car burns oil. And compared to other brands, I burn the least amount of oil using mobile one between oil changes. (I change my oil every 5-6k miles)
@@LivingInFloridaPanhandle you notice it when you change your oil lol. Run Royal Purple in your car and I guarantee you that it won’t outlast a car with Mobil one.
Thanks for the information. My "fleet" ONLY uses Mobil 1 synthetics. My current mileage counts are (newest vehicle to oldest) are: 2012- 170K, 2012-70K, 2008-67K, 2006-224K, 2005-192K, 2000-160K. None of these vehicles were purchased "brand new" so I am assuming most had their first 33K-42K with conventional oils. But I have seen then internals of many engines. Have owned over 60 vehicles. Only go on my experience. Will never run non-synthetics unless I know for a fact the engine has not had it and has a ton of miles already. To me then not worth the change ( my case in point would be my current "project" with 249K showing... most likely new engine or rebuild soon. Then 100% synthetic. )
Wow you have a lot of old vehicles. Also, are you saying 249k out of an engine is not good? I buy new cars and replace every 5 - 10 years, rarely ever putting more than 75k on a vehicle, so it's not really an issue for me but interesting to hear nonetheless.
@@Idiotsincarshere That depends heavily on the specific engine, how well it was maintained, and what type of abuse it saw. 249k on an old Honda that was properly maintained and saw mostly normal freeway driving (no towing or shall we say spirited driving) is nothing, and if that specific combination of maintenance and use was continued the engine very well could outlive the rest of the car. However 249k on say a newer BMW (or really a lot of newer cars in general) that was poorly maintained and was constantly abused (like constant high rpm driving or being used for towing) then it's a miracle the engine is even still running and is a ticking time bomb.
@@nordvestgaming1238 Gotcha! Ya I’m in a rental Corolla now with under 9k miles that’s clearly been abused and it runs terrible. Probably selling my 80k Prius that runs perfect but due to age of battery (7 years) and suspension damage from accident, I’ll go with something else, probably EV. But I always wondered oil change frequency, and synthetic vs regular oil. I had an engine builder tell me just do frequent oil changes with regular oil. Toyota refuses to change my oil with anything but synthetic and it’s pricey.
I have a 2001 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder which was serviced by a Toyota dealer using Shell Helix (20W-50) mineral oil. It did 260,000km (155,000mi). I then started using a 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil, as recommended by Toyota, did 5,000km (3,125mi), then changed the oil and filter. I have noticed the oil appears cleaner after a further 5,000km. I think the most economical option is to check the manufacturer's specification, frequency of oil and filter replacement, and adhere to it. Some years ago in Australia (mid-1980's) Mobil decided to use their full synthetic (Mobil 1) in their petrol (gas) tankers, but found the ester content had an adverse effect on their oil seals (swelling, softening, almost 'dissolving' through its detergent properties), to find that a regular manufacturer's maintenance schedule using mineral oil was adequate...
Great video and if clears up a lot of mystery related to engine oils. I hope it also puts a lot of disagreement to rest in the car community. Thanks for sharing this insightful information!
Going to the shop to buy motor oil: - me: pick up some bottle that has a nice logo - EE: compare the molecular structure and starts calculating the differences in tear & wear based on oxidation
Use to own a couple small airplanes. When an engine is rebuilt (typically around 2,000 hours use), conventional oil is used initially to ensure that rings seat properly, after about 50 hours use, oil is switched to semi-synthetic.......
I've had similar conversations about metal screen oil filters vs. paper filters. Metal filters are more consistent with the size of particle they let through (medium small), where paper has a wider range of particle they filter (large medium small).
I have always used "conventional" oils in my cars and trucks. I have never had an engine failure, with the exception of my wife overheating a Jeep. The water pump had failed and she kept driving. This makes me wonder, if I change my oil at reasonable intervals and never let the oil run low, how important is synthetic oil for me?
I have a 2018 Tuscon and made a mistake of using conventional oil in it one time. When it was almost time to change the oil, the car still had oil in it. The engine sounded fine. With the synthetic oil, the engine sounds worse when it's closer to a change. I have noticed a difference in performance. Tonight I had to go get some oil because the oil light came on before the recommended change. I will be using conventional from now on.
It is one of the reasons apparently. Also fuel and water content in the oil may increase over time. At least the water content may increase when the engine is stopped (for a long time it seems). In the context of long time resting engines oil components stratification can even occur.
Now I wish you did a video arguing for mineral oil. Its polarity is much better than both PAO oils and Group III pseudo synthetics such as the ones you reviewed, so it sticks to metal parts better. It is also much cheaper, especially when purchased in larger volumes.
it is no longer valid to clasify oil by synthetic, semi synthetic and mineral, because most of them made from hydrotreated today. solvent refined / group 1 have the best seal compatibility and solvency so they can clear sludge better than other type of engine oils. No need for engine overhaul at all.
Wondering if you would consider doing a video on aviation oils. The use of lead aviation fuel (100LL) really changes things. Conventional aviation engines are also air cooled, made of mixed metals (aluminum, magnesium, etc.) sit for long periods between flights, and operate at max RPM for most of their lives. Might be a fun rabbit hole for you to dive down. Many of the newer experimental engines that guys like the Flying Cowboys are using are modified car engines that run on car gas, as well.
Naw, Those were the ester base synthetics from 30 + years ago that swelled the seals too much causing issues. The modern formulas of the top premium real synthetics use combinations of PAO with some ester and other stuff to keep the seals pliable. The group III highly refined hydrocracked petroleum based synthetics are formulated to be nice to seals as well I believe. This is basically said, but there is much more tech to it. But so it really is a non-issue today.
Yessir Mr. Russia- as your cars gets older, all the seals and gaskets shrinks, contract, and rot from wear and age, and when you use synthetic oil because of its lubricious properties you will experience increased leaking everywhere.
Jason: I've followed you for a while, what do you think about products (solvents) to "clean" the engine before an oil change? Are they any good, or a complete no no? Thanks for your work?
I have used an engine flush successfully in many of my vehicles. My recipe: 1/3 motor oil, 1/3 diesel, 1/3 automatic transmission fluid. Let the engine run until warm with no load, then empty. The amount of dark color coming out is significant.
Years ago we used kerosene run no high speed crap drain for awhile fill with oil run for awhile then drain and finally refill of course we where using dinos
I have used Mobil 1 products for 40 years and can attest that it has worked great for me. It’s new torture/ litmus test will be in a GM High Feature 3.6 liter + 300 HP engine that is 12 years old. Can it make those pesky timing chains last another 12 years? So far, so good.
Something people who wish to understand the science there are actually 3 types of oil not including mixed synthetic non synthetic often sold as semi synthetic. The first and simplest are non synthetic oils. Second is modified non synthetic often sold as synthetic in these oils the base is chemically or thermally modified, most oils sold in shops claiming to be fully synthetic are acutely modified. Lastly is a true synthetic these use a synthetic base such as poly-ok-alpha there are few commercially available oils which are true synthetic and require research to properly identify.
I would love to see a video about liqui moly's engine oil. Is it actually better, as they claim? And what about their Ceratec? You're the only one I trust to answer these EE
Very interesting - thanks. I suppose this is why they say to change every 3k miles or 3 months, then. So, if a car sits around a lot w/out being driven much, does oxidation have much of a chance to occur (beyond the top layer of oil that's always exposed to air, I suppose), or does it still really have a chance to ruin the oil, requiring an oil change even w/low driven miles?
Firstly those guidelines would be for conventional oil, sythentic oil guidelines are 5k/6 months. That said I've seen oil testing analysis that on 7.5k mile oil that had been used for 25 months, and it still showed NO signs of water absorption or general degredation as opposed to a standard oil change. Do with that information what you will.
@@ezrawaters6653 yep and everyone of them is laughing all the way to the bank. Eventually consumers will wise up. Maybe like when they see their friends, family or neighbors not having car and truck payments for 10 and twenty years with half million or more miles on their vehicle then deciding to buy new paying cash because if the savings they gained by using 100% snythetic lubes.
Apparently the issue concerning VW DQ200 was due to their usage of a synthetic oil that caused some precipitation on the mechatronics unit that lead to it short-circuiting that caused loss of power to the wheels and the unit requiring replacement. They switched the transmission oil to a mineral oil and it's fine now.
Hey Jason! Brilliant video - You did an amazing job of explaining the chemistry in this one! Engine oil deposit formation (mentioned in point 3) is also strongly linked to oxidation (point 4), and deposits are often formed via the same mechanisms as sludge. I'd even suggest the that the oxidative resistance of synthetic base oil stock plays a larger role than the reduced VM content, when it comes to preventing deposit formation. Either way, it's just another reason to go synthetic! 😊 Keep the great content coming! - Sam
Ask yourself who or what is the real true all synthetic oil out their most people don't even know which ones are why because the petroleum industries don't want you to know the truth makes you go hmmm.
what about shear and mechanical degradation of oil long chain viscosity improvers are especially susceptible to this and the fact that synthetic uses less of them is a good thing
Calling it Synthetic came about when Standard Oil -Mobil - ws developing lubricants for jet engines and they found a recycled oil was more resistant to high heat. But Standard Oil got the government to specify first run only conventional oil is required for military engines and aircraft in particular. So to get around the law they renamed it Synthetic and so it has been ever since. You pay more for recycled oil. In 1974 recycled engine oil refiners were wiped out. Fleets used recycled oil to save money with better results than first run oil. In other countries the term synthetic was not used and they continued to use recycled oil which is refined many more times than first run oil allowing longer oil change intervals and superior lubrication.
I replaced conventional motor oil with Mobil I Synthetic Motor Oil in my 1960 Buick Electra with 22,000 original miles. It runs perfectly with no problems!
@@dannydaw59 It’s not a true synthetic by some definitions. In some countries it can’t even be sold as such. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1EXTENDED and Pennzoil platinum or ultra are true synthetics. Best economic bang for the buck is Pennzoil platinum with the ultra having a better detergent package but more expensive and harder to find. Amsoil is the best but very pricey so I go with the platinum & Wix or Napa gold filters with vehicle recommended change intervals. (Just be sure the old filter gasket isn’t stuck on the block) See Farm Project episode “Amsoil or Pennzoil” for just one of many oil tests on the internet.
@@SkypowerwithKarl That Mobile 1 synthetic works great for over a decade now and if it wasn't synthetic it wouldn't be allowed to be sold with that label. Mobile's competitors would make sure of that. Costco wouldn't carry it for so many years now.
Full synthetic oil is not recommended in the aircraft engines because it lacks the ability to keep particulates in suspension. Conventional oils or semi-synthetic oils are used. From what I understand full synthetics for small aircraft engines caused a lot of damage and were then pulled from the market. On my engine (Lycoming 160 hp) the oil is supposed to be changed every 25 hours of use.
thank you very much for your informative videos. love to watch them, especially the series you're posting now! I hope there is one more about synthetic oil where you also say up to which temperatures the oil can still work well ?
My mechanic said he has a few customers who were experiencing oil consumption problems with synthetic oil. He switched them to conventional oil and the issues went away.
Great Video. I understand the advantage of synthetic oil, but would the viscosity curve for a 5W20 conventional be the same as synthetic? The numbers do refer to cold and hot viscosity measurements.
It would seem so, but the conventional would require more of those viscosity modifiers and as the temperature of that oil gets hotter and hotter, the conventional oil will thin out much more quickly. I bet you haven't thought about this comment for awhile.
@@TheRamGuy it did for me. I had a vw fsi direct injection and it suffered from heavy carbon buildup in the valves. I battled with vw to get it fixed but I was unsuccessful. Finally a chunk of carbon broke off and scored one of my cylinder walls and... the end 😢
I don't want squares and triangles in my engine. Synthetic it is.
😂ELI5 version. It's funny too because rings (aromatics) are not a great structure to have, as explained in the oxidation segment, but you keep those triangles out!!
You probably want triangles in a rotary engine though. Just saying. 🤷♂️
@@variety5061 I want to keep all the triangles inside my rotary engine. Thanks!
Yeah, squares and triangles look awfully abrasive, circles must be better.
I’m also afraid that those might scratch the surfaces with their sharp edges,
It’s refreshing to hear an intelligent informed explanation.
@Nick Bouvy
- I won't deny that it was intelligent BUT there was a LOT of detail that the average punter simply can't apply after your basic decision to upgrade to synthetic. ( Though with motorbikes synthetic is better for racing or track days & for normal use you end up with a lot of sludge coming out of the end of the exhaust pipes. ) And as for various additives without giving us @ least some idea of how long it preserves oil life, then that's of no use to us!
@@jimlyon7276 if you are getting slug from switching to synthetic , that is the synthetic detergents cleaning the sludge out of the engine as remains from conventional oil.
@@jimlyon7276 also additives allow the oil to keep a consistent viscosity so throughout a wear/use cycle the oil will stay relatively the same viscosity, so that means compared to conventional oil you can use it longer... say 3,000 miles with conventional and 5,000 with synthetic (just rought estimates)
@@Jay-uw9qr - Fair enough! I was just going by hear say from another guy & seeing as I've been trapped in a bikeless wilderness for too many decades thanks to being divorce raped ++ cos my X thought it would be a good diversion from her toxic child hood! So I admit I've got a LOT of catching up to do. So, would you go as far as to say that all synthetic oils are automatically better than any semi synthetic oil?
Canceled the sub. Paid for by tire and oil manufacturers
Who needs oil additives when you have metal shards in your oil to make the viscosity thicker.
You don't need metal, just ensure enough fuel oil makes it into the pan to offset the thickening to sludge... oil went into my jeep at 10w40, came out of my jeep 5,000km later as 40w10.
Homemade antisieze. ; )
@J B What is the difference between BMWs and Porcupines? The Procupines have the pricks on the outside.
@@SheepInACart 10 points for the Jeep making it that far.
Not everyone drives a BMW M car so they may not have rod bearing debris in their engine oil.
Thank you so much for this series. I've been a diesel mechanic for 14 years and also tinkered with them in general for 30+ years. And Hearing you break down as an engineer the differences of conventional vs synthetic and why its better to flip to synthetic to a level I can mostly understand has been very helpful! I also have pushed my friends and clients to do the same I maintain regularly.
@@WISHBONEL7 Penske Truck Leasing is one place, as I worked there for 14 years and that's the type of oil we put in everything. The rentals, the semis, the Thermo King and Carrier units, etc. But I cant say for other fleet or fleet management centers.
it is no longer valid to clasify oil by synthetic, semi synthetic and mineral, because most of them made from hydrotreated today.
Where do you live ? I’m looking for a good diesel mechanic
Wait, so you're telling me a high tech, lab synthesized cocktail is more precise than dinosaur sauce? Shocker.
With some chemical processes (hydrogenation) you can actually turn that dinosauce into much more stable molecules, but yes, something like PAO has very good characteristics for use as engine oil.
dinosaur sauce??? you mean the base for 99% of what we use.... including synthetic oil.... just different chemistry...
Raptor squeezins.
Oil doesn't come from dinosaurs but fossilized zooplankton and algae.
The point of the video wasn't to just simply explain WHAT was better, but also WHY it was better... smart ass.
Jason, thanks for another very helpful video on this subject.
As a mechanic, I've been using synthetic oils in all of my own stuff for yearsand have seen, first hand, the benefits in reduced wear and increased life of various things I own.
Sometimes it feels like you're swimming against the tide trying to convince people of the many benefits, and fighting the miss information 👌
Keep up the great work
Some of my friends still use semi synthetics in turbo gdi engines. Hard to convince pig headed people!
it is no longer valid to clasify oil by synthetic, semi synthetic and mineral, because most of them made from hydrotreated today.
Everyone knows now that triangles and squares don't flow as well as circles. Synthetic is the way to go.
Synthetic: Consistent Balls
Conventional: Weird Shaped Balls
Guess I'm conventional then
Those not either balls or any other shapes. Google oil molecules, and go for images, You will see chemical molecules drawing. Thats how they looks like. And synthetic is brtter. But not best.
@@neillrogers3604 do the corners on your balls cause chaffing? Summers must really suck.
@@maciejsn2126
That's why I always use alien oil from Alpha Centauri.
@@maciejsn2126 I bet you’re fun at parties
Seriously, you don't have your own school?
Your information is so fluent and actually fun to listen too!
A+
What exactly are the additives in high mileage oils and do they actually make a huge difference
This is really helpful
I’d like to know aswell because I’m still trying to figure out if I should switch to a high mileage synthetic vs a regular synthetic oil.
They are "said" to have more TBN modifiers which prevent oil from becoming acidic, volatility modifiers to prevent evaporation. But its better to just change your oil at 5000 or 6000miles. If your engines starts burning oil, you can't have the oil Company pay for it anyway.
Supposed to have additives to "rejuvenate" old seals, as long as your using synthetic there's no real difference though. Valvoline has the exact same part number for both regular and high mileage synthetic just different bottles
I bet it's a Little more Ester base on fully synthetics from 2 to 3%, in case of Mobil1, it helps a tiny to clean better and swell seals.
We use synthetic because the cost difference is absolutely minimal. I will sometimes use a synthetic blend valvoline maxlife in my old jeep, it tends to slow the small leaks.
watching this during my online classes. This is so much more interesting
Learning more too
@@jordany7018 100%
No joke, I would appreciate some form of service for educational youtubers to teach university lecturers how to produce engaging video content. I know clever editing is too much to ask for, but simple video structure, pacing and audio quality tips would go a long way!
@@armadillito That would honestly be a really good idea. I can't think of anyone better then engineering explained to teach automotive engineering
This guy could explain anything and make it interesting, and easy to understand.
It's refreshing to listen to an individual who does an excellent job of making a complicated subject easy to understand. Thanks to everyone who made this presentation possible.
I started using Mobil 1 in my Toyota pickup new in 1988. At 100,000 miles I had the valve cover off for lash adjustment and it was clean as a whistle in there! I’ve been hooked since.
You’re awfully invested in what kind of lube I use, Jason.
He's such a handsome guy, and I wouldn't want him do me without lubricant....
For what it's worth I've found the girlfriend prefers 10W-20 synthetic. Your results may vary.
@@LanguagesWithAndrew Well, yes. Jason is a tall (big) boy😊
I would be also. AMSOIL mops the floor with m1. So ACTUAL synthetics not group 3 dino pretenders who's left? AMSOIL, driven,redline?
@@johnsteele8073 : Pennzoil
2:53 - I know that one. It's where you put oil in the coffee pot and then move it around on the griddle (in case there are any hot spots) for a few hours. 😉
Followed by a night spent in a freezer at -40
All I know is that when you change the oil on Gran Turismo, the horsepower increases.
And it's a solid increase too, like 3-5% or something
and when your tires go red it's time to replace them.
@@donb6897 Jason needs to explain why red tires have less traction than green ones.
I can't wait until Gran Turismo 7 comes out ngl
And when you change the oil on a real vehicle the horsepower also increases slightly for the first few hundred miles. Ask Jason
This guy knows his stuff and is able to explain it so that we mere mortals can understand it. Thank you.
Thanks to your vids I just switched my ancient Lexus to 0W-30 full synthetic. I don’t stress as much now when I start it on a cold morning.
Run manufacturer recommend weight for best performance and reliability especially on newer cars
@@killdizzle understandable especially in colder climates. I find that oil additives such as rislone really help with lubrication at cold start
Sometimes switching a high milage car from conventional to synthetic will start oil leaks and oil consumption.
I just realized I’m subbed too you lol love the Boston vids
I've been using Amsoil for years...I've always been pleased with the performance.
Always used walmart oil.....Just as pleased for 1/4 the price!!!!
You only pay a $1.50 a quart?
Amsoil is the best oil on the planet
Well I think I know why my engine is running poorly. I was putting triangles and squares in it, not circle
i have had 3 chevy express vans over the years. Have used synthetic every with oil change every 8000km. I have had engines last 500000 to 650 000 kms life.well worth the expense
I can guarantee you by doing oil changes that frequently you would have gotten same life of engine using conventional oil.
@@Eltee127 As long as you don't live in Alaska. Synthetic is better for cold starts but in America where its warm conventional oil is just as good in the winter. I only use conventional oil as I drive about 500 miles a year and change the oil once a year.
A Good Topic from a Good Teacher is the best way to clear the doubts
I'm running out to my cars right now and I'm changing over to synthetic or the cheaper conventional synthetic blend since my cars only used to use conventional
Really enjoy watching your videos always learning something new everyday
Great explanation! This is precisely why since the 90s I have run fully synthetic oil in every vehicle and boat I've owned. Such a superior product.
I worked at Valvoline, I noticed customers who used synthetic oil only had way better quality oil than conventional every time
this is probably the best explanation I have seen of the differance between synthetic and conventional oils.
Oil is always a hot topic on all the forums
Thanks for the video Jason I was the guy on your Facebook page telling you about mobil 1 and they’re switched to GF6 , I daily drive a Subaru legacy with the flat six and I’ve been running 530 mobile one from the first oil change, change it every 5000 The engine hardly uses any oil I am at 110,000 right now!
Great video! I'm not convinced on synthetic though. In order for an oil to be considered "Full Synthetic" it only needs 24% polymers in it. Polymers don't do anything for lubrication in my opinion, just fillers. Oil companies save about 60 cents a quart on synthetic but double the price thinking the consumer is getting something special. I'll be convinced when oil companies start listing their ingredients on the bottles like a box of cereal.
This is about the best intelligent comment I have read thus far on this panel .. oil company gimmicks
Good point!
You should really look into Valvoline Restore. It works by cleaning carbon deposits on the cylinder and overall engine. 👍
I change my car and motorcycle engine's oil each year despite the millage I do using the specs of my maintenance charts with Motul products (oil, coolant and brake fluid), its been 20 years so far and neither of them gave me any type of problems running perfect just by doing regular maintenance.
Congratulations for your explanation. In 1982 I bought a Speede oil change franchisee in México City and our oil provider was Mobil 1. They explain to us all this information with the advantages of using synthetic oil vs mineral oils and always is better use the synthetic one, no matter the climate you have, always follow the viscosity your factory manual say and believe me that you will have easy going a 350 thousand miles engine with no problem at all. The oil in your engine it´s all. It is like the blood in your body.
A lot of good info. Special thanks to Mobil for helping without it becoming a shameless plug for Mobil 1. Of course the real magic is the chemistry in those additives on top of the chemistry in the base oil. Bet we cannot find out as much about how they work. I use a semi synthetic in my 1996 vintage Ecotec and the killer advantage is that it is a 15W 50 oil so the engine is a lot quieter on a cold start while not giving anything away on a 45 degC day. For more demanding jobs the full synthetic is absolutely the right oil. Turbocharging or high revving multivalve thrive on it. It certainly explains why synthetic oil makes engines last longer if it keeps the ring lands clean and lubricated.
Apparently synthetics are not recommended for LPG. Don't know if that is still true but back in the 90s I ran a 250 CI falcon on LPG and even then some oils were duds with it while others would run over 8000k and the oil would be like dark honey. I think it was the early synthetics that broke down in the acidic byproducts of LPG combustion. Not sure if the newer ones are ok with it now or not.
I’ve been using mobile one synthetic oil and all my Toyotas since 1977
Sometimes I wonder how long it takes to write and draw all those things on the whiteboard.
10 min cause he is litterally just drawing info that he knows.
Keeping it clutch as always my man.
Just bought an 89'f250 w/5.8 5speed
After my 2004 GMC 1500 w/ 4.3 5speed lost compression on 4/6 cylinders.
I'm really freaked out about oil now and binging information and this video was perfect timing.
Keep it coming man, good videos as always !!!
I go 18 to 20,000 miles between oil changes, but you've got to use the filter that's designed for it too. A regular oil filter won't last that long.
Can you do a video about the filters that are designed for the full synthetic?
What oil and filter do you use?
@@kaylakunz8112 Amazon basic fully synthetic oil, and a "Gold" standard oil filter. I'm not particular to one brand of filter, but it's got to be the one that's made for 18,000 miles. a standard filter will clog after 5 to 8000 miles.
Back in the mid 80s, I owned a small car that recommended 5W30 in the engine and 80W90 in the manual shift transmission. I had a half full bottle of Mobile one 5W30 and a half full bottle of Amsoil 80W90 gear oil, both synthetics. It was the middle of winter with temperatures at -38. I left both bottles outside on the balcony overnight. In the morning I brought them back inside and was impressed with how the oil moved back and forth when moving both bottles around. Needless to say, I was glad to have those oils in my car.
I only use synthetic engine oil on all of my cars. Two of them have 90k miles and when you open the oil caps, the engines have no sludge, not even discoloration, and seem to be almost new.
2003 Camry 2.4. Went from conventional, to a synthetic blend with plans on full synthetic next change. The Blend lasted about 6 months before it broke down and the engine got hot, and smoked inside the oil system. Changed it today, completely burnt and black. Couldn't have been more than 2,000 miles. Yes, 2,000 miles and I'm lucky to still have an engine. More info on full synthetic change later.
Does anyone actually still use basic mineral oil based engine oils ?. I used to work for Saab back in the 80's and we introduced Synthetic oil back in 1984. "Saab Turbo Motor oil" as it was badged was actually made by Castrol Engineering for Saab.
Yes, plenty still use dino oils. Mostly older cars but yes, they still do.
People who drive Rotary powered cars with the Oil Metering Pump still use conventional
good to understand the science behind it. My first car i changed to M1 when I bought it at 100,000km and ran much smoother, and ran problem free till sold it at 260,000km
I use mobile one full synthetic high mileage on my 06 chevy trailblazer ext with 222k and its done me a lot better than any other brand I've tried
How so?
How has it been better compared to others? I've never noticed a difference from brand to brand.
@@Hubjeep exactly it's not something you can really notice driving
My car burns oil. And compared to other brands, I burn the least amount of oil using mobile one between oil changes. (I change my oil every 5-6k miles)
@@LivingInFloridaPanhandle you notice it when you change your oil lol. Run Royal Purple in your car and I guarantee you that it won’t outlast a car with Mobil one.
like always, the best technical content about engeneering on the internet. Thanks and keep teaching us !
I’m rockin that Costco Kirkland synthetic oil. $25 for 10 quarts of 5w30 killer deal!
Amazon basics has also been found to be a fairly good oil.
Mobil 1 0w-40 best oil
@@dogewisdom9921 No better than walmart or Kirkland oil.
@@mrbmp09 keep telling yourself that
Costco buys from Mobil One and puts in their own containers. This is actually done at Mobile One production site. 😬
Mobil One user since the 70's and Smokey Yunick tests :)
Been watching your channel since you started! Love your stuff!!
For my WRX I use Full Synthetic 10w30 and my 4.7L Jeep GC semi synthetic 10W40 oil. Both cars have their oil changed every 5000km.
Thanks for the information. My "fleet" ONLY uses Mobil 1 synthetics. My current mileage counts are (newest vehicle to oldest) are: 2012- 170K, 2012-70K, 2008-67K, 2006-224K, 2005-192K, 2000-160K. None of these vehicles were purchased "brand new" so I am assuming most had their first 33K-42K with conventional oils. But I have seen then internals of many engines. Have owned over 60 vehicles. Only go on my experience. Will never run non-synthetics unless I know for a fact the engine has not had it and has a ton of miles already. To me then not worth the change ( my case in point would be my current "project" with 249K showing... most likely new engine or rebuild soon. Then 100% synthetic. )
Wow you have a lot of old vehicles. Also, are you saying 249k out of an engine is not good? I buy new cars and replace every 5 - 10 years, rarely ever putting more than 75k on a vehicle, so it's not really an issue for me but interesting to hear nonetheless.
@@Idiotsincarshere That depends heavily on the specific engine, how well it was maintained, and what type of abuse it saw. 249k on an old Honda that was properly maintained and saw mostly normal freeway driving (no towing or shall we say spirited driving) is nothing, and if that specific combination of maintenance and use was continued the engine very well could outlive the rest of the car. However 249k on say a newer BMW (or really a lot of newer cars in general) that was poorly maintained and was constantly abused (like constant high rpm driving or being used for towing) then it's a miracle the engine is even still running and is a ticking time bomb.
@@nordvestgaming1238 Gotcha! Ya I’m in a rental Corolla now with under 9k miles that’s clearly been abused and it runs terrible. Probably selling my 80k Prius that runs perfect but due to age of battery (7 years) and suspension damage from accident, I’ll go with something else, probably EV. But I always wondered oil change frequency, and synthetic vs regular oil. I had an engine builder tell me just do frequent oil changes with regular oil. Toyota refuses to change my oil with anything but synthetic and it’s pricey.
I have a 2001 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder which was serviced by a Toyota dealer using Shell Helix (20W-50) mineral oil. It did 260,000km (155,000mi). I then started using a 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil, as recommended by Toyota, did 5,000km (3,125mi), then changed the oil and filter. I have noticed the oil appears cleaner after a further 5,000km. I think the most economical option is to check the manufacturer's specification, frequency of oil and filter replacement, and adhere to it. Some years ago in Australia (mid-1980's) Mobil decided to use their full synthetic (Mobil 1) in their petrol (gas) tankers, but found the ester content had an adverse effect on their oil seals (swelling, softening, almost 'dissolving' through its detergent properties), to find that a regular manufacturer's maintenance schedule using mineral oil was adequate...
Great video and if clears up a lot of mystery related to engine oils. I hope it also puts a lot of disagreement to rest in the car community. Thanks for sharing this insightful information!
My car is diesel and i use 15W-40 (api ci4)(acea e7)
Our temp here is (9°c to 40°c) my car is hyundai h100
Going to the shop to buy motor oil:
- me: pick up some bottle that has a nice logo
- EE: compare the molecular structure and starts calculating the differences in tear & wear based on oxidation
Use to own a couple small airplanes. When an engine is rebuilt (typically around 2,000 hours use), conventional oil is used initially to ensure that rings seat properly, after about 50 hours use, oil is switched to semi-synthetic.......
The video title: "There's A Good Reason To Switch"
Me: Ok , let's switch to consistent shaped balls oil
Hi Antonio. You're a nice boy hey?
Means fully synthetic oil?
I've had similar conversations about metal screen oil filters vs. paper filters. Metal filters are more consistent with the size of particle they let through (medium small), where paper has a wider range of particle they filter (large medium small).
I have always used "conventional" oils in my cars and trucks. I have never had an engine failure, with the exception of my wife overheating a Jeep. The water pump had failed and she kept driving. This makes me wonder, if I change my oil at reasonable intervals and never let the oil run low, how important is synthetic oil for me?
I can feel my engine running noticeably smoother, quieter and cooler with synthetics. Thats enough proof for me.
@@sunilayya8948that’s one hell of a placebo effect!
I have a 2018 Tuscon and made a mistake of using conventional oil in it one time. When it was almost time to change the oil, the car still had oil in it. The engine sounded fine. With the synthetic oil, the engine sounds worse when it's closer to a change. I have noticed a difference in performance. Tonight I had to go get some oil because the oil light came on before the recommended change. I will be using conventional from now on.
Turbochargers aren’t just for performance or for better fuel economy. They are also for longer oil durability as he said.
Crazy, I worked at the plant where this stuff is made and I never really understood the advantages. Heard a lot about GF6 though
Great explanation, and right up-to-date talking ILSAC GF-6. Didn’t realize dexos2 is more strict.
Is the oxidation why intervals are mile and time based then? That makes sense.
It is one of the reasons apparently. Also fuel and water content in the oil may increase over time. At least the water content may increase when the engine is stopped (for a long time it seems). In the context of long time resting engines oil components stratification can even occur.
I've been a mechanic for about 46 years and regularly learn things I didn't know from this channel. Yup, that is a long time to pull wrenches 🔧.
Now I wish you did a video arguing for mineral oil. Its polarity is much better than both PAO oils and Group III pseudo synthetics such as the ones you reviewed, so it sticks to metal parts better. It is also much cheaper, especially when purchased in larger volumes.
it is no longer valid to clasify oil by synthetic, semi synthetic and mineral, because most of them made from hydrotreated today. solvent refined / group 1 have the best seal compatibility and solvency so they can clear sludge better than other type of engine oils. No need for engine overhaul at all.
Wondering if you would consider doing a video on aviation oils. The use of lead aviation fuel (100LL) really changes things. Conventional aviation engines are also air cooled, made of mixed metals (aluminum, magnesium, etc.) sit for long periods between flights, and operate at max RPM for most of their lives. Might be a fun rabbit hole for you to dive down.
Many of the newer experimental engines that guys like the Flying Cowboys are using are modified car engines that run on car gas, as well.
I have heard that some crankcase seals and other rubber part on older cars does not like fully synthetic oils. Can you elaborate on that please?
He has a video on this. Check his channel, it was pretty recent
Naw, Those were the ester base synthetics from 30 + years ago that swelled the seals too much causing issues. The modern formulas of the top premium real synthetics use combinations of PAO with some ester and other stuff to keep the seals pliable. The group III highly refined hydrocracked petroleum based synthetics are formulated to be nice to seals as well I believe. This is basically said, but there is much more tech to it. But so it really is a non-issue today.
Yessir Mr. Russia- as your cars gets older, all the seals and gaskets shrinks, contract, and rot from wear and age, and when you use synthetic oil because of its lubricious properties you will experience increased leaking everywhere.
@@bobpress1235 Thank you.
Oh huh? Well I have 97 5.4 triton with just about 250,000 miles with 100% synthetic in it that doesn't leak!
I mix 10w30 semi synth with 10w40 synth in my motorcycle. Both have the same specs.. seems to work great. It's for saving money
Jason: I've followed you for a while, what do you think about products (solvents) to "clean" the engine before an oil change? Are they any good, or a complete no no? Thanks for your work?
I have used an engine flush successfully in many of my vehicles. My recipe: 1/3 motor oil, 1/3 diesel, 1/3 automatic transmission fluid. Let the engine run until warm with no load, then empty. The amount of dark color coming out is significant.
Years ago we used kerosene run no high speed crap drain for awhile fill with oil run for awhile then drain and finally refill of course we where using dinos
I’ve been using Mobil 1 synthetic since 1987, it’s still the standard “go to” synthetic
I have used Mobil 1 products for 40 years and can attest that it has worked great for me. It’s new torture/ litmus test will be in a GM High Feature 3.6 liter + 300 HP engine that is 12 years old. Can it make those pesky timing chains last another 12 years? So far, so good.
Something people who wish to understand the science there are actually 3 types of oil not including mixed synthetic non synthetic often sold as semi synthetic. The first and simplest are non synthetic oils. Second is modified non synthetic often sold as synthetic in these oils the base is chemically or thermally modified, most oils sold in shops claiming to be fully synthetic are acutely modified. Lastly is a true synthetic these use a synthetic base such as poly-ok-alpha there are few commercially available oils which are true synthetic and require research to properly identify.
I would love to see a video about liqui moly's engine oil. Is it actually better, as they claim? And what about their Ceratec? You're the only one I trust to answer these EE
Beautiful. Best explanation ever. Thank you so much. I've seen quite a few videos on the topic, nothing compares.
Very interesting - thanks. I suppose this is why they say to change every 3k miles or 3 months, then. So, if a car sits around a lot w/out being driven much, does oxidation have much of a chance to occur (beyond the top layer of oil that's always exposed to air, I suppose), or does it still really have a chance to ruin the oil, requiring an oil change even w/low driven miles?
Firstly those guidelines would be for conventional oil, sythentic oil guidelines are 5k/6 months. That said I've seen oil testing analysis that on 7.5k mile oil that had been used for 25 months, and it still showed NO signs of water absorption or general degredation as opposed to a standard oil change. Do with that information what you will.
I'm glad you explained this. I didn't know the difference between synthetic and conventional, now I know! THANK YOU!
Would love to see a video on hydrocracked synthetic vs "true" synthetics.
That would expose mobile 1
@@Jon-O. and Valvoline, and Castrol, etc
@@ezrawaters6653 yep and everyone of them is laughing all the way to the bank. Eventually consumers will wise up. Maybe like when they see their friends, family or neighbors not having car and truck payments for 10 and twenty years with half million or more miles on their vehicle then deciding to buy new paying cash because if the savings they gained by using 100% snythetic lubes.
Apparently the issue concerning VW DQ200 was due to their usage of a synthetic oil that caused some precipitation on the mechatronics unit that lead to it short-circuiting that caused loss of power to the wheels and the unit requiring replacement.
They switched the transmission oil to a mineral oil and it's fine now.
Hey Jason! Brilliant video - You did an amazing job of explaining the chemistry in this one! Engine oil deposit formation (mentioned in point 3) is also strongly linked to oxidation (point 4), and deposits are often formed via the same mechanisms as sludge. I'd even suggest the that the oxidative resistance of synthetic base oil stock plays a larger role than the reduced VM content, when it comes to preventing deposit formation. Either way, it's just another reason to go synthetic! 😊 Keep the great content coming! - Sam
Ask yourself who or what is the real true all synthetic oil out their most people don't even know which ones are why because the petroleum industries don't want you to know the truth makes you go hmmm.
Terrific ! Thanks for making this video.
Here he goes again, blowing up all the Internet Forums for the next week
What do you mean?
what about shear and mechanical degradation of oil long chain viscosity improvers are especially susceptible to this and the fact that synthetic uses less of them is a good thing
I have an electric car. I’m still watching this for some reason
you still need to lubricate hinges and such.
If a whisper quiet electric car drives through an empty forest with no one around, do we still have to hear about it?
Have fun at CrossFit
@@jordany7018 got em.
@@andrewsbbq no 🧢
Calling it Synthetic came about when Standard Oil -Mobil - ws developing lubricants for jet engines and they found a recycled oil was more resistant to high heat. But Standard Oil got the government to specify first run only conventional oil is required for military engines and aircraft in particular. So to get around the law they renamed it Synthetic and so it has been ever since. You pay more for recycled oil. In 1974 recycled engine oil refiners were wiped out. Fleets used recycled oil to save money with better results than first run oil. In other countries the term synthetic was not used and they continued to use recycled oil which is refined many more times than first run oil allowing longer oil change intervals and superior lubrication.
I replaced conventional motor oil with Mobil I Synthetic Motor Oil in my 1960 Buick Electra with 22,000 original miles. It runs perfectly with no problems!
synthetic is worth it alone to run twice the conventional interval to save time/hassle. Havent even counted the better start up lubrication
I go for the synthetic when it is on sale at Costco. 👍
They have mobile 1 synthetic there. I put it in my '08 Challenger.
@@dannydaw59
Any synthetic but that next time friend.
@@SkypowerwithKarl Why?
@@dannydaw59
It’s not a true synthetic by some definitions. In some countries it can’t even be sold as such. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1EXTENDED and Pennzoil platinum or ultra are true synthetics. Best economic bang for the buck is Pennzoil platinum with the ultra having a better detergent package but more expensive and harder to find. Amsoil is the best but very pricey so I go with the platinum & Wix or Napa gold filters with vehicle recommended change intervals. (Just be sure the old filter gasket isn’t stuck on the block) See Farm Project episode “Amsoil or Pennzoil” for just one of many oil tests on the internet.
@@SkypowerwithKarl That Mobile 1 synthetic works great for over a decade now and if it wasn't synthetic it wouldn't be allowed to be sold with that label. Mobile's competitors would make sure of that. Costco wouldn't carry it for so many years now.
Thank you for this video. I enjoy learning specific information on subjects of science and engineering 😊
YES! Finally a new whiteboard video.
Full synthetic oil is not recommended in the aircraft engines because it lacks the ability to keep particulates in suspension. Conventional oils or semi-synthetic oils are used. From what I understand full synthetics for small aircraft engines caused a lot of damage and were then pulled from the market. On my engine (Lycoming 160 hp) the oil is supposed to be changed every 25 hours of use.
thank you very much for your informative videos. love to watch them, especially the series you're posting now! I hope there is one more about synthetic oil where you also say up to which temperatures the oil can still work well ?
My mechanic said he has a few customers who were experiencing oil consumption problems with synthetic oil. He switched them to conventional oil and the issues went away.
Been doing zoom classes before it was cool
In the UK pure mineral oil is a rare sight on shelves. Most is semi or fully synthetic oil.
Either is not defined though on purpose
@@Kavi4GP
uh?
Like all the videos to keep our car professor Jayson to do more interesting and educational content.
Awesome content!
Regards from Brazil
0:01 whiteboard, that a good start ;-)
Do conventional and synthetic use the same numbers like 10w-30 conventional and 10w-30 synthetic?
Great Video. I understand the advantage of synthetic oil, but would the viscosity curve for a 5W20 conventional be the same as synthetic? The numbers do refer to cold and hot viscosity measurements.
It would seem so, but the conventional would require more of those viscosity modifiers and as the temperature of that oil gets hotter and hotter, the conventional oil will thin out much more quickly. I bet you haven't thought about this comment for awhile.
Where I live in Europe, basically all car engines are synthetic. Conventional is only uses in two stroke engines like scooters and chainsaws and such.
My Hyundai accent with 95,000 mi just blew up last weekend because of carbon buildup on the top end. Tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap
Was it a direct injection engine?
Not sure how carbon build up in the cylinder head can cause an engine to blow up
@@Mozzarella_Cheese_Addict it is.
@@TheRamGuy not actually blow up, but certainly made it undrivable
@@TheRamGuy it did for me. I had a vw fsi direct injection and it suffered from heavy carbon buildup in the valves. I battled with vw to get it fixed but I was unsuccessful. Finally a chunk of carbon broke off and scored one of my cylinder walls and... the end 😢
Good timing! Was planning to change the oil in my 911 this weekend :)