1964 C60 Rebuilt
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- Опубліковано 22 бер 2021
- 1964 C60 purchased for the farm and then completely overhauled from the frame up with a custom fabricated bed. It is not restored, and likely never will be. Unlike almost every other of this vintage out there, this girl is 100% fresh excluding body and being put to work on a nearly daily basis, just as she was born to do. She is one of a kind, from an era when drivers were operators. Over a quarter million miles down and still turning them.
You did an awesome job man. I was just given a 1966 C60 by my great uncle. Can’t wait to get started on it.
We gotta see more of this truck and this channel. You're a natural at this
You did a great job, thanks for fixing the truck , it’s still got lots of work left in him . American Iron all the way!
They don't build things like they used to that's for certain.
Man you did that old truck right! Everything about how you disigned the new bed is just genius! I recently got my own C60 and plan on putting a 5th wheel on it and getting a trailer to save other old trucks from junkyards and such. It drives me absolutely crazy seeing people yank the cabs off these bigger trucks for their C10s and just scrapping the rest.
All Chevy trucks from 1955 second series on are 12 volt. Your ammeter will work work just fine if you hook it up. Even if the truck was originally 6 volt, it wouldn't matter anyway with the ammeter.
That being said, your truck is a beauty. That 292 is also an incredible powerplant. I ran one of them in a 51 2&1/2 ton for awhile. There wasn't much of anything that I couldn't pull with it, and it got decent fuel economy, too. I just recently got a 62 Chevy C60 dump truck with a 261 six cylinder, four speed transmission, and a two speed rear end. I'm presently working all of the bugs out of it to put it on the road. Fortunately, it's in better shape than yours was when you got it. It's very low mileage and appears to have been well maintained. It's just been sitting for a long time. Just like yours, mine will be a work truck. I hope you get many years of service from your truck.
Can't wait for the trendy 'that being said' to end, it's not necessary.
I see your comments like this a lot. Multiple times in the same video even. Seems to be a theme with you. Nobody cares what you think because you don't matter. People will talk and type however they chose and you will continue to be unhappy and irrelevant untill you end. @@WayneMarion
I bought a 1973 C60 in 2018. It had a grain bed on it & I took the back off to turn it into a chip truck. I found a retired neighbor that worked on tons of these & he's been a gold mine!!
I've replaced the alternator, plugs & wires, starter, & rear wheel cylinders. My neighbor helped me clean & adjust the carburetor & choke. Runs pretty well. I also had to find a new diaphragm for the 2 speed rear end.
That truck will out live us all!
What a great old truck! It's worth noting that these were never six volt-GM did away with six volt electrics circa 1954. So if the electrics were fried, the six volt battery someone put in there is probably why. I grew up hauling firewood with my Dad in a '65 C60, and I have another '65 C60 that's an RV converted school bus. So I'm familiar with these rigs.. and regarding the points, you could easily add a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion and never worry about them again. Same distributor, coil, everything else-just zero worries about setting points, and more ignition power to boot. I converted an old Buick Invicta to electronic ignition this way and it made a big difference.
My bus is heavy, and that anemic little 327 wasn't enough to haul it around the Rocky Mountains as a motorhome.. but the 500cid Cadillac V8 I converted it to, is enough to push all 15,700 lbs of Enterprise over most mountain passes without even hitting the low range. And all that compression means I don't even have to touch the brakes on long descents.
Oh, one more thing.. you probably have the 7,000lb front axle in your rig, which means the puny drag link they put in those, is probably loose or soon will be. Creates a challenge because those bias tires follow the lines in the road even easier if the steering's sloppy. After 15 years of searching, I found a cache of the Moog DS900 steering links at Rare Parts.. here's the link: shop.rareparts.com/RP25927-25927-DRAG-LINK and it's the best $87 you'll ever spend on making 'er go down the road in a straight line.
It's good to see the ol' girl found a home and a purpose again. Nicely done!
I saw your posting on the drag link elsewhere recently, props on finally tracking it down and spreading the word for others. The world needs more people like you.
Unfortunately, this girl is only the 5k lb front axle. She is the heaviest of the standard duty C60 line at GVW 19.5k, and in order to have the 7k axle, it takes one more jump into the C60H lineup which comprises the GVW 19.5k+ realm. This info is further corroborated by the fact of 15x4 rear axle brake shoes which are only installed on the 15k lb rear axles which were only ever paired with the 5k lb front. Every GM application with the 7k front axle also came with the heavier 17k rear axle standard that has the larger 15x6 shoes. All of this info is cross referenced an ripped from my factory manuals and corroborated against others books as well.
That said, she really doesn't wander at all. She's and old truck and you more or less guide it as opposed to steer it, but all linkages are strong and tight still. The only slop is in the steering box and then the kingpins themselves, which is minimal at best.
Good call on the 12v from factory. I revisited my manuals and you are correct. I think I may have bridged a gap just a bit far on that one mistakenly. Everything original closely mimicked the old 6v setups, but everything original was also burnt up and barely recognizable.
The new dizzy I dropped in gave out a few weeks back. Pot metal that simply deformed and failed, so I am actually back at square 1 and likely jumping straight to a new HEI from a reputable source. This is all still be researched and dug up at the moment right now. I am in a lull where she isn't needed for a few so I am taking my time on a few items.
I am always happy to see the people that not only keep these era big trucks on the road, but keep them 'mostly' original in doing so. Too many frame swapped C60's and such which takes all the character out of the truck. The technology may be old, but its still reliable once you understand it.
@@RocketFarmer Wow, I have the C60 at 19,600lb gvwr, it had 15x4 rear brakes before I changed the axle to a '67 T170 Corporate axle for which it's still possible to get parts. I was pretty sure I have the 7000# axle, but now I'm not as sure. I know its steering knuckle has the smaller stud drag link ends. It's a 48 passenger bus tho, so longer and heavier. It also came with the 327 versus a six. Maybe I better look at the casting numbers.. thank you for the tip!
@@Bolton115 Not a problem. Though you are diffidently in the 60 series, it will help to have the full model code designation if its available. For instance, CL60, D60, CLD60H, T60T, T60HT. Then there are S62, S64, S67, S67H, S69, and S69H. All of these are the different models of the 60 series and the S models are all school bus models. With model, then you can trace the factory options and see the different configurations. The S62, S64, and S67 came only with the smaller 15k rear, but had optional 7k front, and the S69 configuration only came as 15k rear and 7k front. Both the S67H and S69H came as the larger 17k rear with corresponding 7k front axles.
For reference I am using the table on page 0-8 of the 1963 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual cross referenced with the 1964 supplemental. There may be some subtle differences in the 1965 supplemental version as well. My guess is that based on your info, you likely have an S62, S64, or S67. However, because GM calculated GVW based on capacity of equipment used on the model (build sheet basically) it could also be a de-rated S69. Any idea what your wheelbase is?
@@RocketFarmer Wow, I didn't know all that! Based on the 14x21/2" drum brakes up front, I was told it is the 7000# axle. I bought this thing out of a farmer's field in 1993, so I'm unsure as to where I might find the build info. I think the wheelbase is 235" but I haven't measured it lately. If it had been equipped with the old truck 348 or 409 I might have left that engine intact.
Back in the day, I was always told that C meant conventional chassis as in my Dad's '65 C60 that had a regular cab in front of a dump bed, and mine which has the regular hood but the Chevy part stops at the front of the school bus body.
@@Bolton115 So from the books:
197" WB: S62 and S64
225.5" WB: S62 and S64
243" WB: S67
261.5" WB S69
You are correct, the C does stand for conventional, but it denotes the conventional truck cab of the c10-c80 lineup which all use the exact same cab, just different fenders and rad/rad support. GM L code denotes low-cab-forward which still uses the conventional cab, just a third different style of front end and a different doghouse, hence the CL60 designation; Conventional, low-cab-forward 60 series.
For reference, GM codes:
D: denotes diesel options (Toro flow)
M: denotes tandem options (3 axle config)
T: denotes tilt cab option (cab-over-engine)
H: denotes heavy duty (larger axles installed)
S: denotes school bus
All use similar chassis, engines (barring the diesel Toro flow), axles, springs, etc across the 60 lineup in a variety of configurations, just different body styles. Sadly I still haven't found a good single source for all of this info, just bits and pieces here an there, a lot of which I write into my books.
The easiest way I have found to track info is these reference tables based on the info that is known: year, GVW, brake shoe sizes which correspond to specific axles, etc etc. Course, a lot of that info is also measured by hand since this was long before GM had the RPO code sheet installed in the glove box with all the factory build specs, and original paperwork is always looooong gone.
Love these old trucks. I’m trying to get my grandpas 1965 4000 dump truck back going. Not having luck finding a windshield.
If it is a GM, then its the same windshield for a c10 thru c80 conventional cab or LCF. Buy glass for a '65 c10 and it will fit
Awesome truck and love that you kept the 292, log bunk is stout for sure I’d add expanded metal mesh to the cab protector/headache rack to keep small logs from going through, keep the old Chevy working 💪
I have planned to do this for a little while now but haven't yet had the chance. It is currently in the works still.
Excellent !! Great job. I've owned a 1966 C60 before and it was a work horse. Who knows, I might pick up another some day. I love how you configured the bed. Absolutely top notch!!
That is a sweet 1964 Chevrolet C60 You've refurbished for your needs ! & the ole CB lingo for your truck is a tooth pick hauler ! 10-4 ! It's incredible how many people overlook these diamonds in the rough ! & that is a truck You can take pride in because you did allot of the work yourself ! & I'm sure it will be getting the job done for along time with the build you did on it ! Thanks for sharing the video , & I luv your German Sheppard.
What a great old truck! Good for you for rebuilding the old girl and keeping her true to form. Many years ago I worked for a utility and my first crew truck was one quite similar. It wasn’t very fast but it always did the job.
I have the same truck. Except someone put a smallblock in mine it's said to be a 350but I haven't. Confirmed that yet. But my response was to say. It was never 6 volts but I see in the comments that's already been stated. I love the big green truck and am glad to see she's got a happy home and a good job.!
CPP makes a boosted setup that will work in these trucks.
Enjoyed seeing what you did to her, she looks like a great rig. I am fixing to buy one myself, but she is gonna get a Cummins 12 valve and an NV4500
I love these old trucks. Thanks for saving her and the good work
Love your truck! Quick idea, for door handle, super easy/quick fix without disassembling the whole door panel-you can loosen the set screw, rotate the handle so it hangs straight down in normal/unlock position (6-o’clock) then itwon’t lock every time it rattles down due to gravity. That will hold you until you can try a new door latch relay linkage, they are around $25. I agree it is a little annoying every time you have to get in it is locked! I have a ‘64 C10 and working on getting a ‘63 C50 at the moment
Not a bad idea at all. I keep the vent window unlatched and use it to open the door and then just roll the window down typically right now
We need an update on this truck. What an awesome bed. Fantastic ideas!
That is nice. I like the details you put into the work you have done. Nice work bro.
The truck is awesome, it makes me happy to see new life brought to that truck and you are a master at your craft.
Nicely done. I appreciate the amount of thought that went into the multi-purpose bed, use and practicality over looks everyday.
One of the coolest trucks I've ever seen! Great job on it!
Great job restoring the truck. It's truly a great truck. My grandfather had one with a dump body.
I Purchased a 1965 c60 24,000 GVW from Maine it was a ex fire truck with a 327 V8 factory motor really nice truck and I did put The cab on a 1985 one ton dually truck because I want to drive the truck every weekend around town and out of town but I am keeping it simple and reliable
What a beauty she is! Exactly what I’m aiming to build soon for my fleet washing service. Great work! 💪🏽
Nice to see someone using one of these old trucks!
My absolute dream truck, I hope some day to do basically the same thing resto-wise and daily it. work the absolute crud out of it to. Great work man
Ok. I owned these old trucks back in the day. I know every inch of this truck. You have a 5,000 pound front axle, The rear axle is a 15,000 pound. The rear axle is not really that good. I use to go though a stump a year. Look for a 17,000 pound to replace the 15,000. The 17,000 use a electric two speed. The stock wheels will come apart over time. Look for tubeless wheels. The 292 will out pull a 350 on any hill. The 292 will last 100,000 and that is it. The 292 will out pull the Ford 330, and the 304 International, and the 318 Dodge. They are tuff and run like hell. I worked at a Chevy dealer back then and I still have some parts. Keep your eyes out for a 17,000. They have the same axle cap as the 15,000. But they all have electric two speed motor. These old Chevy drove good too.
If I was running her hard every day I would ditch the 15k rear simply for the weight class upgrade and more readily available brake shoes, but as is, there isn't any immediate need to do so. When I track down a good rear end I'll snag it and store it in the barn for a rainy day. Same with a 7k front.
There is no way I will ever consider tubeless 1 piece wheels. The wheels alone are $200+ per, and have to be custom ordered. Factor in rubber on top of that and it will cost double what the truck is worth. Again, if it was a daily worker, maybe, but I'll stick with ring lock and 3 piece wheels and bias plys. If you know how to drive on that setup, it isn't bad at all.
I like the 292 for its grunting ability and (compared to tall deck V8's of the era) gas mileage. She's fresh and good for another 40 years, then has one more rebuild left in her to punch bore out to .060 over.
I had one of those 292s in a truck that had at least 172,000 on it when I got it, and I put at least another 150,000 on it before it died. If the radiator hadn't blown, causing it to overheat, it would have lasted even longer. If you take care of it, those engines are very tough and durable and long lasting.
Love what you've done with the old C60! I bought a '64 C60 dump truck last fall and really haven't had to do much with it. Went through the lights and polished it up and painted the box and got it to pass Virginia State inspection so I can work it. Mine has the 327 but I've had one of those 292 six cylinder. That was a GREAT eingine in the 67 short bed stepside 4X4 I had in my late 20's through late 30's. In the 13 years i drove it we went over 300k miles and the pickup was 22 years old when I bought it and run by a Logging company in Northern California, Trinity Alps, Scott Valley area. It was kinda beat up when I bought it.
Anyway, back to my 64 C60. I had to replace the Hydrovac booster and when I decided the brake line plumbing was not making any sense, I removed the lines form the master cylinder because I felt the return line going into the front of the reservoir from the pressure end of the Hydrovac was not correct. Just as well, it was glued in so I am getting a new master cylinder. Now that I see what you explain, it must be set up right but should it come out of the end of the Hydrovac or should the return be out of the bleeder port? The brakes were working fine until I started hauling heavy loads. The booster went out on me going into an intersection and fortuneetly no one was in front of me.
I notice yours has the two port vacuum check valve for the brakes and 2 spd axle. I am going to take mine off and make sure it is not responsible for taking out the Hydrovac. Have you found a good source for those kind of parts if it's bad? I keep looking on the net but haven't seen any check valves like it yet. You can check out my goins on Instagram
stephen.graf Hope to hear from you. Thanks!
The two line brake system uses a smaller line from the output of the master to the input of the hydrovac (top of the cylinder nearest the diaphragm) and then a second larger return line from the tip of the cylinder (as in the outer cap of the cylinder) back to the side of the master where it empties into the reservoir. The Output from the hydrovac is at the bottom of the cylinder and pops out the side in the same orientation as the input before it then travels into the frame. There is also a bleeder for the hydrovac back by the input, but nothing should be attached to this other than a bleed screw. Post # 6 has photos which you can reference, the red circle is the high pressure return. www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1348487/re-locating-60-66-big-bolt-brake-parts.html#Post1348487
Further information on this specific brake system can be found here: www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1410378/gm-3-line-brake-system-information.html#Post1410378
It is common for the booster to fail with age and can be from a number of reasons. It very likely will not ever be the check valve on the firewall. Typically the master seals go bad and fails to push the necessary fluid to the booster, or the booster diaphragm and or seals fail. If the booster diaphragm fails then the pedal will go to the floor without any actual brake force applied at the wheels, and if the seals go then fluid can actually be bypassed up the vacuum line. In extreme cases, brake fluid can actually be injected into the engine via the vacuum lines from the booster to the carb. Even if the check valve ever fails, it wont cause a true problem for the axle or brake systems except in a case of a pressurized system (vice vacuum), aka a backfire, where rather than pulling vacuums on both systems, it could pressurize those systems and thus cause damage. Its the point of having a check valve in line, to prevent pressurization. Also, OEM style replacements are unobtanium, so just keep running yours as is. If it is indeed bad, you can tell by blowing and air sucking thru it, you can replace with just about any modern day check valve, otherwise keep your eyes peeled at junkyards. When you can actually find one of these trucks in a yard, I almost guarantee it will still have its check valve as no one ever nabs them.
@@RocketFarmer WOW! Thank you for the info, RF. I am going to contact Precision Rebuilders. When I replaced the Hydrovac I ordered one through NAPA that was like the one on my truck which was for a 1965 C-60.
Last Friday I ordered a MC 1.25" like the one I have but I will verify the part number for the 1.50" piston and eliminate the return line and have a two line Hydrovac which made the most since to me in the first place. Who ever replace the HV last time literally glued the fitting for the retune into the MC reservoir. Thank you again for relating your information so well. I will keep you posted.
@@RocketFarmer To make sure I am understanding correctly, RF, you had to send Precision Rebuilders your MC and HV and they made you a system that transformed your three line system into a two line system, Or do they have this application on hand?
Thank you,
Steve Graf
@@stephengraf8045 I had to provide my originals as cores. They did not have anything in their inventory that matched my specific setup so they gave me two options.
Option 1: send in my units for a factory rebuild of both the MC and HV and I would retain the factory upgraded 3 line system.
Option 2: provide my original units as cores and they would build me a separate 2 line system from units in their inventory which I would convert my trucks brake system to an easier to maintain/find parts for 2 line system.
I chose option 2 for reliability and maintainability reasons, knowing full well I would be rebuilding this system again in the future. They were able to bore & sleeve my original master and appropriately pair it to a 2 line HV which they then sent my way.
The only difference I see in operation of the 2 line vs 3 line system is that the brake pedal is much more gradual. I will still lock up all 4 corners easily, but it takes an appropriate amount of pedal travel to do so vice how it was with the 3 line system, where a mouse fart on the pedal would lock it up and skid me into the ditch.
@@RocketFarmer I would prefer option 2 as well. I had a chat with Amy at Precision a minute or so before you sent this and from what you were saying in 2019 I figured Tim may well have retired and he has. She did say she would contact him and see if he is willing to talk to me.
I have already bought a rebuilt HV for a 65 C60 application thinking there would probably not be any difference. So, perhaps all I need is the 1.50" bore MC with out the return hole and run it as a two line. I'll find out.
The brakes on my truck worked great also. Empty was feather action but loaded was pretty normal. It kinda surprised me when they failed but it was in minimal use for several years and the diaphragm failed once I started loading it up and running it. I was hoping to get a project finished and hopefully still will this Summer. I'll keep you posted, RF
How did you get the Rocket Farmer tag? Rocket Stoves maybe?
Steve Graf
Sweet truck man, you have definitely peeked my interest
Mine is a 1965 C60. The 292 will drive away from 350 GM , or 351 Ford on take off under loads. But top end is a different story. Mine gets extremely great fuel mileage , for what it is. When scrap steel was selling so hi , me and a friend were doing tear outs from factories. We would load both my C60 13.foot dump , and his one ton F350 dually. Both made the same amount of trips , but the 292 would get nearly twice the fuel economy of that 351 Windsor. Mine would be way heavier , but would pull away on long hills , and at take off.
Also I put power steering from a late.70's C60. Was able to swap the entire front axle , steering box under mine. That gave me the 10 lug pattern. You will notice a big difference of having to drive around tight places all day with power steering. These trucks do steer well with a manual setup , but being able to steer with one finger is awesome.
One thing is I keep busting 4 speeds. Have been hoping to find a Clark 5 speed. I baby it , but some reason 1st gear explodes on them. But it has been way over loaded with massive boilers , carpet tufting machines. They explode while it's empty tho. I buy every one I come across. Like every one I've put in are quiet , and shift smoothly. Never have I had one go out in a one ton , even with a 454 hooked to it. Hopefully yours will last. If you're just hauling wood , hay , and the like you won't have any trouble.
Great truck! Exactly what I would love to have. 292💪
Gorgeous brother
Nice. I have a 1962 C50 Bus. Just got new 22.5 wheels.
The widow makers and 1985 bias plies still looked good, but jeez eh, that's pushing it.
Nice to see you fly your flag. I fly my Maple Leaf.
Can’t find widow makers either
great video work that makes sense
sweet video I just picked up a 86 C70
I like your truck...nice job...
Great job!
Thank you thank you thank you 💚💚
awesome truck old is gold
If you want to get rid of the one barrel carburetor ⁉️go to the parts store and get a one too two barrel carburetor adapter ‼️👍🏻 and the points problem with it change it over to electric dest, it's a change over ‼️
Those engines are STRONG,
That is a great truck and video.
Nice build
I really like the way you set up your bed, I’d like to have one made like this for a C50 I’m buying
A very cool old truck 👍
Very sweet ride!
Very good job nice truck
Really cool truck..
Awesome job...Looking at a 68 F-700 for about the same purpose....I've found that there is actually more available OEM then I would have thaught.....for re-hab of a half a century old comercial vehicle...You learn the ropes along the way with what you can swap/substitute with the lesser F- series platforms and what is Senior specific only....Similar to the sharing or lack of compatibility between the 10 thru 30 series Chevys and the 50, 60..etc offerings.....
Add to the challenge that mid to late 60s is the end of the old "tried and true " engineering with all mechanical/servo/power electric entities are all manually operated.....there are no ECMs....PCMs.....Electronic Ignition was in it's infancy....U.S. Auto Industry attempts at fuel Ignition were expensive and unreliable....
You don't find as many folks anymore going back to that period for choice of working truck.....better to stick with OBD-1 and OBD-2 era comercial stuff....parts.....average guy can still figure out how to keep it going even when you still can't find the G.D..sensor that's making the truck run like crap.....The difference between Electric and Electronic....well....it's a heck of a bit more than two letters and a extra syllable....I can tell you....I was blessed growing up as a kid....right in the middle of the awakening of the "Digital "
World.....
Well....good luck...
hey partner, I just gotta say this...but.....I swear....years ago....when I was in the Army....I had a Ranger Instructor.....talked just like you and everything.......Not a chance is there?
Not a chance at all
Quite frankly, the older the vehicle, the easier it is to work on. I've been on the roadside many a time now in this old girl, but only once have I been stranded (blew the fan belt). They are from an age when engineering included maintenance and rebuildability by the end user, not a dealership
Just subscribed,never heard of a 64 chevy having a 6 volt system.
Great video, think I've watched this 4 or 5 times now, I've revived a few of the c65s and f600s, love the old school med duty trucks. Will you do a update video in the future. Hoosier
I've got a lot of raw footage of the girl being worked. Just need to compile it and get something else out. Plus have some footage for the brakes since everyone and their mother has questions on that. When things calm down after harvest ill try and get some things together.
Love It!
workin' mans truck, bravo.
awesome!
Top speed 45-50 just bought another one and drove it from winthrop mn to Prescott wi, all original and loud!!!😂
With the right tires, a fresh engine, and correctly working 2 speed, you can do 55 all day and push up to 60. Takes a minute to get there and you have to get comfortable with the high rpm's, but the forged bottom end can take it without even sweating.
Previous owner did not try to convert it from 6 to 12 volts. It was 12 volts to begin with. That old Chevy and the 6 in it will do you right.
I’m thinking of getting my self 50’s or 60’s Chevrolet, GMC or Ford 600 or even bigger truck. It’s just really hard to find any decent truck of that time period here in Finland. Here is quite many ex fire trucks, but they all need cabs, all fire trucks come in here as chassis trucks, so they didn’t have cab at all, only frame and hood and front fenders and power line and about all of these ex fire trucks are 4 wheel drive trucks and I really want rear wheel drive truck. Shipping prices are now much too high, so shipping from USA is not good choice in this moment. It would be really great to haul all kinds of things as hobby etc, but let’s see how long it takes for finding a truck for that. I’m sure not interested of any newer than 60’s trucks. Plastic and computer problems are not my thing.
I lucked out with this one being a barn kept queen despite rolling 200K+ miles over her life. I have picked nearly every junkyard in the surrounding 200 miles clean and never come across another truck to salvage any body panels from. There's a number of trucks, but all are so far gone that nothing left is worth it. About the only thing I have had good luck with is the OEM Yankee77 roof marker lights. I keep finding a snagging every one that I can since you cannot get them anymore.
desde Costa Rica te saludo amigo hermoso camión aquí hay uno mismo modelo es de volteo todavía trabaja,
Worked as mechanic for over thirty years
Dont feel bad bud they never have breaks
I don't understand what your saying it was converted to 12 volts. Chevy changed to 12 volts with the second series 1955.
Im pretty sure brakes were an option on all these old trucks..... at least ive never ran one with any!
Hey I got a question for you, I have an old 1966 GMC 4000, like a C40 just different make, where did you find the rims for the truck because I have the 3 split rims on them, also known suicide rims, the truck can't pass inspection with them on so I need solid steel rims, do you remember where you got the rims, or the company's name?
I don't have 1 piece wheels, I have ring lock wheels which are 100% legal and perfectly safe to run. The other viable wheel are the three piece wheels which are even easier to work with. I had to hit multiple salvage yards to find a full set of 6 lock ring wheels for me. Took some time but in the end it only ran me about $300 total.
Multipiece wheels are perfectly safe and legal in all states so long as they aren't the center split RH5 style wheels. Those are the widowmakers and outlawed in most places. Just about every tire shop will still work with non-RH5 multi-piece wheels.
If you try to go with one piece wheels that is fine and will let you run tubeless radials, but you need to be prepared to spend about $2k just on the wheels alone. They are a special order wheel in the GM lug pattern and will run from $250 to $400 per wheel depending on who you are ordering from. Occasionally a full set will pop up used, but even then its still > $1k for the set and they are incredibly rare to find used. Everyone always wants the one piece wheels, but you will end up spending more on wheels and rubber than the truck will ever be worth in its lifetime.
Awesome job!! That truck should have already been 12 volt system from the factory...you shouldnt have had to convert it from 6 volt
Hey on your fuse box that is on when the ignition is on. How did you wire it?
There is a pink (i believe) wire that feeds from the ignition switch to the stock fuse panel. It will be hot when the key is in the "on" position and dead when the key is in the "off" position. I ran a new pink wire with heavier gauge to the new fuse panel (the lower one in the video). In out of the box form, this panel is a "single in single out" panel; IE each fuse slot is a separate circuit with a required in and out. I brought the pink wire into the top slot on the left, and then made jumpers and jumped the first 4 slots on the left together to the pink wire, thus all for slots are fed by the single pink wire in. Then the right side goes to each individual circuit, all with independent fuses in the middle.
If you want to up the HP Split the exhaust manifold and buy a Clifford intake. Use a 600 ABF carter carb. Now if you ever find a 194 Chevy Six cyl engine get the head off of it and out it on the 292. It's a direct bolt on. 20 HP more right there. Add another 25 for the intake with the 4 barrel with a split exhaust manifold. There is 45 HP you can add and it will not hurt the engine at all. There is more power to be had but I will not get into it here.
I looked into building up the 292 but opted to keep her stock style. You can make a 292 a 350 killing machine, but as a farm truck I care more about low end grunt and purposely keep the restrictive intake and single barrel just to keep the power band low. Low power band allows me to chain to things and use the truck to pull/yank/haul/etc easier. If I ever get a 292 in an old pickup though, that will be a different story
Got one wanna drive from illinois to cali hopefully crew cab her while im still at the factory. The fact the c style bodies are the same is awesome. What did you do for your wipers to accept new style wipers
Never bothered with swapping wipers. The original style can be had for less that $4 still which is dirt cheap by modern comparison. I keep a couple on hand for when I need to swap them. This way I don't stress the still original wiper motor.
How is the truck working out? I'm working on a 1987 GMC 7000 myself... scoping out others' work on big trucks to get ideas.
Truck has just over 8k down since the rebuild. Its hauled a few hundred logs, roughly 20 chord split firewood, sand, dirt, and stone. I have since replaced the 3-line OEM brake system for a simpler 2 line system and pulled the dizzy and replaced with a ~76ish GM L6 HEI from a 250 that I rebuilt. I rewired the ignition switch for a second time and used a relay for HEI power to mitigate excessive electric load thru the ignition switch.
Shes no Cadillac rolling empty, but handles a load very well. GVW is only 19.5k and she sits at 9.5k empty. I put nearly 16k on her for a last ditch log run before gas prices went insane and she took it like a champ. She sits in the slow lane with the truck but rolls a steady 58mph with a bit of oomph left to accelerate thru any steer tire situation.
Most don't believe my top speed, but its verified with GPS. A freshly rebuilt 292 with good compression, good ignition, and the right wheels can turn some rpm without issue even with deep gears, it just takes a minute to get there. Even so, on asphalt, there is rarely a need to split shift I have found. Off-road is a different story.
I am still playing with timing trying to dial in good top end rpm with good bottom end response. Its a fine art that I am constantly tweaking. I am somewhere in the realm of 6*btdc initial right now while I play with recurving the HEI.
I wired a Blue Sea Systems charging/monitoring station to my dash to not only support charging capabilities via 12V ports but also to more closely monitor alternator charging via digital readout. One of the better ideas I have had. I use it constantly.
I likely should do a walkaround of the truck to show a lot of the items that went into it. I have had a few ask about it.
Did you double flare the stainless brake lines? Im redoing mine too but people have suggested single flare instead
Double flare. Its not easy but given the zero margin for error on single line brake systems, I went with double flare. Single flare is easier, but not nearly as reliable and since these trucks are single line systems, a leak anywhere will result in total brake loss.
If you are using a traditional flare tool, don't even bother trying with the cheap ones, they wont be able to handle it. I was able to manually double flare with a snap on manual flaring jig, but my hands were shot afterwards. I snagged this not long after and believe me it is worth its weight in gold. www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
@RocketFarmer awesome, thanks. I actually picked that eastoowd flaring tool up a couple days ago anticipating this job. I love that thing
@@daltonbrennan8242 I will never use another flaring tool for the remainder of my life. It was worth every penny, especially with stainless lines.
Since you already have the tool, id stick with double flaring everything to keep a strong joint.
nice i got 65 gmc 4000.. where you find your brakes??
Cylinders for front and rear are still available new from any Napa as well as Rockauto. The 15x2 front shoes are still available via Centric, but the 15x4 rear shoes are a total bust. I lucked out and found a farmer with a NOS set on the parts shelf in the back of his shop. Otherwise the only option is to have the shoes relined by a professional shop. Even then, its a process as they have to be custom done since 15x4 shoes haven't been used since the 60's and aren't a common stock item. If you are lucky and have the more common 15x6 shoes then you can still find those new from Centric.
@@RocketFarmer i got someone for shoes he relines them.. i need wheel cylinders i got new brake booster n master cylinder on it
@@davejohnson2937 Centric still makes and stocks cylinders. They are (or at least were) cheap from RA. I spent a total of like $50 on all 6. A quick check shows current prices are up from Jan/Feb '20 when I bought them. I opted for new vice rebuild as the originals were in bad shape and rebuild kits (at the time of my rebuild) plus the cost of machining/sleeving the originals cost more than new cylinders that have fresh, not corroded threads. Obviously current market prices may dictate otherwise for you
hello friends, for a little inspiration, try to open the youtube video from the Indonesian repair shop "custom chevy C50 Indonesia". success always for you
Any idea on fuel economy between light / no load & normal heavy load ballpark idea? I looking at '68 pretty decent shape - It would have to go between two farms 30 miles a part 3-4days week hauling g logs o e way empty o return trip - Thanks for video.
Rolling empty at 9500lbs she pulls a pretty steady 9 mpg on regular pump gas (no premium or octane booster added). Running loaded at 20k she does about 7-8ish depending, but that's with pretty steady 57mph speed with almost no stopping on the drive between the farms. When I'm hauling around either farm and grunting thru the gears, she drinks a bit quicker. Overall I'm pleasantly surprised, but it's because of the fresh engine with good compression. Prior to the rebuild she got 2mpg at best. The 292 is nothing by today's standards, but grunts better than any engine I've driven and eats less fuel in doing so. Granted, I also don't set any land speed records either
I had a ‘69 C50 with the 292 and it got 5 mph.
@@mykelbaurle5758 , my 51 Chevy 2 and a half ton flatbed with a 292 got 12.5 MPG loaded and up to 15 empty. It weighs just under 10,000 lbs empty.
Where did you get wheel bearing and brake parts?
Took original bearings and seals off and into NAPA with me to match up with new ones, it is the only way you can do it anymore. Dont bother on the paper gasket outer seals. Just use RTV. I used rock-auto for my wheel cylinders and then NAPA Maxi Pack UP2474 is the hardware kit for the fronts. You need two kits in order to piece together the hardware for both sides. The front 15x2 brake shoes can still be fount new from Centric, part# 111.02990. The rear 15x4 shoes for the 15k lb axles cannot be located anymore, don't even bother trying. You have to remove the shoes and have them relined by a professional shop. If you have the 17.5k lb rear axle with the 15x6 shoes, those too can be found new from Centric (don't have part# on me).
There is no source for the star adjuster nuts or any of the rear hardware for the brakes. Whatever you do, don't loose the star nuts, damage the return springs, loose the cylinder feet, or strip the star nuts on removal. Lots of penetrant, good soak time, and heat are necessary to get them off if they are stuck on. Then chase the holes, slather the suckers in anti-seize, and put it all back together.
Nice job Sir! Everything looks great!
So would you be interested in restoring my 1964 GMC 6500? Busted pistons...and a few other issues..but not a lot of work...missing driver's side door...stolen years ago...otherwise the body is in great condition...me know if you interested...I can email you some photos of it.
Have a 81 c6000 cant find the 15x5 brake shoes
Hey man great job, thanks for the video. I'm looking into buying one of these trucks but I was looking into part availability, more specifically brake drums and I can't seem to find any. Would you tell me your plans when your needing new drums? I would love a truck like this but it would be pointless with out parts ya know. Thanks.
I continually hit junk yards and keep my eyes open for parts and stockpile what I need. Currently I have a full NOS set of impossible to find 15x4 rear brake shoes and a set of drums off of a scrapped truck tucked away as spares.
The good thing is that these trucks are standard frame width, so the obsolete parts availability really isn't a true problem. If you end up being unable to locate necessary parts, you can very easily just axle swap to newer style axles which are effectively bolt in, and have full suite of parts availability. It is what I always recommend to those struggling to find obsolete axle parts. Also, you can pull complete donor axles off of other large trucks for $100-250 typically so it is cheaper then trying to source certain original parts in most cases.
@@RocketFarmer thank you for you response, in your experience have you found part compatibility with different years of the c60. I'm sure much doesn't change from year to year but I'm wondering what you have noticed. Thank you for your time.
@@jeffcasey235 For driveline components, yes. The 15k lb rear axle with 15x4 shoes was used from 1960 clear thru to the late 70's, though it became the "lite duty" axle around 67 when most trucks opted for the 17k lb as standard, which runs the larger 15x6 brake shoes. Parts for the original 15k lb axle are all but obsolete. As to what hub assembly you end up with is a toss up between the proprietary Chevrolet 10 lug or Dayton spokes, with the spokes being the better option for wheel and tire compatibility due to regulations regarding split rims and most wanting radials.
That said, you can take the axles off just about any truck from '60 to current and slap them under you truck and other than brake system (drums vs discs vs air) it is plug and play. Even across manufacturers. The frame spacing is uniform across industry so when regulations passed banning the RH5 split rims, many farmers just axle swapped their grain trucks for spokes and pulled them from Fords, Internationals, etc etc.
Front axles are about as simple as they come. An I beam on leaf springs, no shocks. Aside from axles, the drive line is basically the same except that in in the early 70's GM swapped from the external trans brake open to the environment to a contained drum on the rear of the trans for the park brake. In the late 60's GM also started going away from the manual clutch linkage (fork, return spring, and pushrod on a pivot) to hydraulic slave cylinders for the clutch.
Pretty much everything else aside from doghouse, rad support, and front fenders is direct compatible with/from the c10/c20/c30 lineup.
@@RocketFarmer wow okay, thank you so much for your in-depth response. I appreciate your time and hope to see more videos from you... And your truck haha. Thank you.
@@RocketFarmer , Rock Auto has those brake shoes. They're kinda pricey, though. They can also be relined. I had to do that for some I couldn't find new.
How many uhhhms can you get out of cookie crumbs?
Task Force series
If this is not a 1 ton the how many tonnes is it?
With the axle configuration, it is a 2 ton per the classic definition. The 1 ton, 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton terminology is a quick way to designate the weight rating of the front axle of trucks. It has nothing to do with how much weight a truck can haul, but rather how much load can be directly applied to the front axle. It really begins to fall apart once you get bigger than the 1 ton (F350, 3500, etc) rating. For example, the front axle on this truck is a 5k lb axle and the GVW is 19.5k lbs, so it is technically larger than the "2 ton" designation. However, it is generally accepted that the "2 ton" designation trucks have at least a 7k lb front axle.
In short, the designation really doesn't carry over from light duty into the medium duty class. Everything medium duty is ranked by axle weight ratings in normal daily usage.
@@RocketFarmer Thanx that's helpful indeed.
These trucks were always 12v
Where are you located?
Hi
Up date the distributor to electronic
Just had an incredible barn find on a '63 C50, body is in very good shape, the stock 283 is questionable which is OK, planning an inline 6 transplant, but, why I am commenting is...Watched the 1963 Chevrolet truck sales video, and what caught my eye was, I think the bus line was outfitted with a double brake fluid reservoir, and if true, I would like to change the single out. Also wondering if the two speed rear differential gearing could be swapped out for higher gearing...great video btw, good info! ua-cam.com/video/aht7fRgnFcw/v-deo.html
Interesting, I have not yet seen that video or this brake system that it alludes to, as that particular system is not present in the '63 or '64 manuals for the trucks. I wouldn't even know where to begin looking for the parts to said system since basically no buses exist anymore. I will do some digging.
For the price of re-gearing the rear diff, it will be cheaper to locate an entire axle with the ratio you want and then swap axles. When you can find the gears for this age 2 speed, they are horrendously expensive. As a word of caution though, if you plan to use the truck as a truck and with only a 6cylinder, you don't want high gears or you will be sorely disappointed.
I can happily report that (with fresh engine and good compression) my truck rolls 55mph without issue on factory gears. I do not want to go any faster for safety reasons. These old suspensions will put you in the ditch if you move too fast on rough roads. Couple that with heavy loads, and any notion of speed should be put aside for overall control.
@@RocketFarmer A Saginaw steering conversion and a HD steering stabilizer might be the way to go to smooth out the steering issue. My intent for this truck is to use it haul a Vardo trailer (WIP) around, thought a 6 would offer better mileage and it doesn't need to be a speed demon, back roads, and old country playing on the radio. Take a look at the 5:29 point see what you think, two lines coming out, wondering if it has two reservoirs? ua-cam.com/video/f-JYgDwKDiU/v-deo.html
@@go6042 It isn't the steering so much as the lack of shocks or any cushioning to the suspension. I cant tell you haw many times I have smashed my head into the roof now from certain road conditions.
The 6 will most certainly net you the better mileage, it just comes at the cost of needing some steeper gears to get her going.
As per the video, that is a single line brake system with a dual reservoir master meaning the bus has a hydro clutch vs spring clutch. Here the RA page showing that particular master. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12995597&cc=3438723&pt=1836&jsn=883&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIhylPKrF7bIqHt7yNXdy7qVvMa3m04RBIhG%2FWuhT%2Foq8FXzjTVUeDkcqr9voCbPzRo6GgB4DCdU8nXcIk7hQ5nKDLdgqWWwvlof%2F5yh%2BJ5rbsbhgrreCvNy%2F4KFIj6thxKwMFuSbWxKj%2F8ooqwe%2Bebm5a5tVemFL%2BlgivWzzDcKJOWzAi0uYgq1F6slsXwAd8Glzg58I%2BplcAL6NIJXWOOZ1h0iLhyb8PDbzQF0XidZWsDcNA4IoFBu8paEmyqcDO3wjd9SbHhr%2F9IMQXp81ODzoXO2B4NyT%2BC
@@RocketFarmer Interesting information, I'll have to look at a lot of options for this rig, I don't see it tackling many of old logging roads, but who knows, hmmm wonder if some kind of airbag system could be fitted. Goal is to keep it as original as possible, while updating safety features, double master cylinder would calm my redundancy back up ways. Btw, this C50 was a old high desert wheat farm truck with dump hydraulics, even has the behind the cab upright exhaust pipes, shoot me a message if so inclined, our week long rodeo is almost over and will have more time to talk trucks
@@RocketFarmer OK, after a few more cups of coffee and a reread I'm tracking what you're saying about the brakes, there would be nothing gained, would still be a single line system, back to the Acme drawing board for Wiley
Were you able to find American made bearings and seals? Everything I find now days is Chinese made 😕😑🙄😒
Sadly only the wheel bearings were of good quality Timkin, which these days is still not American, but also not China. All the wheel seals are unknown origin from NAPA and I have spare sets ready to go on the shelf of the shop. No one knows how to properly make, or just flat out no longer makes the paper gaskets for axle caps seals/diff seals/etc so I've just resorted to using Permatex without the paper gasket. All the rubbers in the filler neck (coupler, grommet to the body, etc) have been installed for exactly 16 months and look about like the ones I initially took off....dried out, weather cracked, and junk.
I wish I could say I wasn't surprised, but something regarding rubber and seals changed in industry back around 2016/2017 and no matter what vehicle and what part, all the rubber components are junk regardless of manufacturer. I run into this issue almost yearly on my '04 Silverado and '85 K30. I cant keep ball joint seals, bearing seals, or front crank seals from going bad in short order, from el cheapo parts store brands clear thru Moog brand.
What's up
convert it to a pick up truck ua-cam.com/video/5aRkKbOVjss/v-deo.html or convert it to this one ua-cam.com/video/aYaFSWlwNbo/v-deo.html
Respectfully, no. It would be utterly useless with any conversion such as that. This is a trend that I will never understand nor support.
If you want a pickup, buy a C10-30. Leave these bigger girls alone so they can do what they were meant to.
That truck was never 6v
Converted to 12 volt ? That truck was born 12 volt
Yes, but there were 6V parts on the truck when I got it. The truck had an electrical fire at one point in its life which burned up a lot of things and then it was further hacked by someone attempting to "fix" it at some point who replaced parts but only made it worse.
if it was mine i would have just put a V8 in it ,
..............Replace the old Ignition system with An MSD capacitor discharge system.....NO POINTS !!!
In early 2021 I finally sourced an original GM HEI from a 70's 250 that I converted to work on the 292. Have been rolling with that ever since now
You need looms desperately.
Most everything has been buttoned up now. I was still in the process of electrical modifications at the time of the video but its been pretty well cleaned up now
Sorry, can't take the constant 'uh, ums'.
They beat up and worked many of those old trucks into the ground. I have a 1955 Chevrolet LCF with a 265 , V8. A 1947 dodge 1&1/2 ton truck. Top speed is 30 mph
Log bunks there's a money maker copycat.cash and buying a 64 210 c60 25,000 mi thousand bucks