How to permanently fix play in a Mavic freehub body in 3 easy steps
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 кві 2023
- In this video I’m going to show you how to permanently fix the play in a Mavic freehub in a couple of easy steps.
I bought a second-hand set of Mavic Crossmax SLR wheels for my Cannondale Scalpel. Even with a new original chain and cassette the chain kept slipping on the biggest sprocket.
As it turned out the rear wheel was dealing with a very common issue caused by one of the biggest design flaws in bicycle components; play caused by the worn nylon bushing in Mavic freehub bodies. I could visibly move the cassette about 2mm on the Mavic freehub.
To remedy this issue I’m going to remove the Mavic freehub and replace the nylon bushing with a aluminum adapter holding a ceramic sealed bearing. Not only will this remove the play, but it’ll also ensure the play will never again return.
Join the Facebook Group: / 996447607429641
I've also written a blog post with more information. If you want to read this article go to www.restoration.bike/bike-rep...
Visit my website for more bike restoration tutorials: www.restoration.bike/
Instagram: / restoration.bike - Навчання та стиль
Thank you so much for this. I'm having the same issue.
nice!
Quick Update.. I decided to quit being cheap and just try this on my freehub. It was a pretty painless install, with only a little bit of sanding (as per the the instructions with the kit from The Hub Doctor) to make it fit awesome. Worth the $50 from The Hub Doctor that is for sure.
I only had a tiny bit of free play in my hub after changing out the bushing, now I have ZERO free play. While I had the hub disassembled to do this I went ahead and change out the 20 year old pawls.. OMG talk about a night and day difference! The stronger springs in the pawl kit really make positive hub engagement. Plus they sound almost like a DT Swiss hub now.
H9w much and where can i get trhis aluminium ring?
I had to replace the bushing in my Mavic Crossmax hubs as well. I worked like a charm in getting rid of the the free play in the hub body. It's nice to a more permanent solution but depending on the cost is it worth it? The bushings were only a few dollars each( I bought 5) and super easy to install.
There are a number of reasons why you might want to opt for this route. For me, these wheels sit on my most expensive bike restoration I've ever done. Going for the nylon bushing again was out of the question. The second reason is that this is simply a far superior solution than a new bushing. Not only is it a smoother ceramic bearing, unless the inside of the hub becomes contaminated for some reason it'll basically last you a lifetime. So that's smoothly running hub forever without having to worry about play, increased wear on the sprockets of the expensive and increasingly rare original 2007 cassette, and the chain skipping.
@@restorationdotbike
Good points to consider that is for sure. I'm not trying to preserve an original cassette either. That bike (2001 Jekyll 2000) has a very modern complete SRAM NX Eagle 12 speed group set on it. I bought the bike as a complete rolling frame since it had a still functioning Lefty on it. It has a mismatched set of wheels on it that I replaced with 2006 ish Mavic Crossmax SL's that I picked up. It's one of my favorite bikes in my humble collection of Cannondale bikes.
Where do you buy the bushings? I can't find anything under 20-30$ for it... Could you please provide me a link or part number or website please? Thanks!
I replaced the bushing on mine and there was less play but it didn't eliminate it so I have been looking at the hubdoctor bearing conversion for a while. On his version you sand a little material off the inner part so the bearing is good friction fit. I noticed on yours you pressed it on. Isnt that going to make it difficult to remove for servicing?
Probably not. The hub needed to be retightened after a couple of rides so it wasn't all that tight in the first place even though it might look that way in the video. I haven't tried hubdoctor, but judging from the fact that apparently you need sanding I would argue that the option shown in the video is better.
@@restorationdotbike Ok thanks for the info 👍 I think this option looks good so i'll give it a try. Any update on the Scalpel? I always wanted one back i the day. Think it was the first FS bike to use flex stays if I remember correctly 🤔
Would this work if the body itself is worn down? Is the bearing not still sitting on the hub body?
In my case an oversized bearing might work however i will not be able to get it over the initial part of the hub body as the wear is not consistent through only wear at where the bushing sits
The bearing replaces the nylon bushing, it does nothing for a worn freehub body
Thanks thought so... Will look at the Hubdoctor replacement
Does it fix my frwehub of R SYS mavic model?
I don't know for sure, but if you've got play in your freehub it's highly likely it operates using the same type of technology.
This freehub of MAVIC R sus comes into 2 measures:
8mm and 9mm i think,how will I know the right replacement??
Is there a Shimano Microspline freehub available to fit these hubs?
I don't know
Hi, I used this method, but after installing noticed that the new part wasnt pushed in completely so the freehub didn't 'click'. However, when trying to take off the freehub body, it is completely stuck. I can spin it in both directions but taking it off is impossible and completely stuck. Any idea how this might come and how to fix? Thanks!
I have no idea why it's stuck. There's really nothing inside the freehub that can get stuck on anything. It's a smooth cilinder, they're supposed to come of extremely easy.
Hi, i have the same issue!
Did you find a solution to this?
Thanks
Ok so when the free hub sleeve including the bearing is pressed in the hub recess where the dust seal used to sit, how do you remove the free hub body then? In case say a prawl or a spring breaks inside the freehub body. I can't see how you could "un-press" it. I guess I see a recess in the outer race of the bearing, extending the free hub sleeve, that would theoretically be used by a bearing removal tool, but as shown later in the video the whole width of the bearing is completely buried in the recess of the hub, again where the dust seal used to sit. To me it looks like a "no going back" kind of solution, but maybe I missed something.
If you can pull the freehub loose once, I don't see a reason why you shouldn't be able to pull it off a second time.
@@restorationdotbikeWhat you are saying is that the inner race of the bearing is not pressed against the hub body, is that correct? I clearly see you sing a press system at 2:55 though. How would you pull off the freehub sleeve then once it's pressed in?
@@groovy_beargreat question
Que número es el rodamiento😊
Where i can buy the replace part?
I have a link to an article in the description
could you tell me the dimensions of the bearing
I have no idea
Hard to hear who sells the kit??
There's a link to the blog post in the description. It also contains the information of the seller.
I've now had 2 failures with the Mavic Ksyrium Elite hubs. Basically, resulting in no drive in the hubs. Mavic refused warranty the 1st time; they said normal wear and tear. But, the wheels were only 11 months old, I weigh 65kgs and 65yo with bugger all power. Anyone else had this problem? The 2nd failure (this morning)......it hasn't even been 9 months ago they (Mavic) replaced it at my expense mind you. 😳😳 The internal hub marks are witness marks, not wear marks so there's nothing obvious.
Mavic wheels come with a number of issues. The biggest issue having to do with hub failure, which can sometimes be difficult to determine and costly to repair. Other issues are corroding spoke nipples you can never un-tighten again, and probably the worst anodization I've seen from any brand on any bicycle component. They do look great though ;)