You might want to consider adding a "donate now" link. I used videos from 4 of you guys doing this service. All of you were fantastic. But I was only able to show my monetary appreciation to 2 of you. Couldn't have done the 5vz-fe timing belt/water pump w/o you; did it right with you. Thank you!
Following this video(thanks for making it). During disassembly if your thermostat dowel bolts running through the water pump do not pull out. (which ideally they should not.) you will need to move the oil dip stick out of the way (there is a single 10m bolt holding it in place and once removed the oil dipstick tube can simply be moved out of the way) as the hose attachment point on the water pump will not clear the dip stick. he did not have this issue because the dowel bolt for the thermostat where removed prior to the water pump coming off. Addition : if you are doing this as a in a carport, shade tree like I was pulling the radiator out does not take long and gives you a lot more room to work. If your not in a rush I would suggest it.
Heads up; 96 Tacoma here. You have to put on the lower timing cover BEFORE you install the A/C compressor bracket and compressor. My timing cover is an OEM 4 bolt different design than the one in this video. Great video, but if you follow the sequence here, you'll have to take off the compressor and bracket (again), to get it installed. Ask me how I know.
Outstanding video man! I saw that righty tighty till it went lefty loosely in the beginning though for the manual tensioner 😅😂 Lol I’m about to do my wifes 3.4L Tacoma so I truely appreciate the video! I’m gonna do the crank seal and cam seals too though. This will be my second timing belt job this year (95 diesel hilux earlier and the other videos wasn’t as good as this!)
47:12 here is a trick, just get a plastic trim remover tool, put a little of WD 40 on the belt and the plastic trim remover tool were you having the problem of sliding the belt ( crank shaft sprocket ) use the plastic trim remover tool like a pry bar and the belt will slide in place with less battle, that way you avoid moving the cam shaft and keep the timing perfect.
Good God, I thought once you got that timing cover off, it was smooth sailing but that wasn’t even halfway there. That’s a big job for a water pump if that’s all that needed to be replaced
I've done this twice without removing the ac bracket and compressor. Not easy, but better than doing at shown here. Gotta get creative with how to remove the tensioner bolts. I think I had someone help me with the rear one. Very doable.
Woah I don't remember needing to do all that. Just take the fan, shroud and if you're feeling extra safe pull the radiator(I didn't) and you have plenty of space to take it apart
Important correction, the "jiggle" valve or hole in the thermostat is supposed to be at the DOWNWARD on this engine, in a 6 o'clock position. It's what Toyota says to do and apparently it can make a difference.
Side Note: Toyota suggests the bleeder valve be placed at the 6 o'clock position. Why I have no idea, but I didn't burp my system proper and had unbalanced cooling etc... Come to find out after bleeding 5 times for an hr, took everything apart... found OEM shit on the thermostat, yea 6 o'clock... Also orientation of the washer on the tensioner matters too... not trynabe that guy but after that damn thermostat BS im not taking chances LOL
Thanks for this vid it's really gonna help when I do this soon. One question, at the beginning you had a bolt break off and said you would deal with it later. I've gone thru the vid a couple times and can't see where you might have dealt with that. Any help will be appreciated because I'm sure it will happen to me as well haha. Thanks!
Why not remove the radiator to make more room and less chance of damage? If it is because you don't want to loose trans fluid, I have used a hose to make a loop from 1 connection to the other. If there is another reason, please explain. Thank you for your input.
As deep into the front of the engine as you are going why are you not replacing that side hose from the water pump? I would say, that's the same as the water pump hose on small block chevy's, that's at the top of the water pump.
ANYONE WANTING TO KNOW HOW MANY HOURS LABOUR A GOOD GARAGE WILL CHARGE ITS 4 HOURS AND 2 HOURS TO REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET WHICH THIS 🤡SHOULD HAVE DONE AT THE SAME TIME WHEN HE ALREADY HAD 90% OF THE STUFF REMOVED.
Im haveing a problem were the time belt is like extra extremely tight and when i tighten tensioner and it starts pulling the belt at the bottom of the crank and the marks are off cuz the crankshaft shifted. What can I do to change this to the marks are all line up right?
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
You might want to consider adding a "donate now" link. I used videos from 4 of you guys doing this service. All of you were fantastic.
But I was only able to show my monetary appreciation to 2 of you.
Couldn't have done the 5vz-fe timing belt/water pump w/o you; did it right with you.
Thank you!
+@Sam-mx2pi Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thank you for such a detailed video you really took the time to find a way for us to see exactly what’s going on
Following this video(thanks for making it). During disassembly if your thermostat dowel bolts running through the water pump do not pull out. (which ideally they should not.) you will need to move the oil dip stick out of the way (there is a single 10m bolt holding it in place and once removed the oil dipstick tube can simply be moved out of the way) as the hose attachment point on the water pump will not clear the dip stick. he did not have this issue because the dowel bolt for the thermostat where removed prior to the water pump coming off.
Addition : if you are doing this as a in a carport, shade tree like I was pulling the radiator out does not take long and gives you a lot more room to work. If your not in a rush I would suggest it.
Dude you should've taken the shroud off the radiator... would've made your life a lot easier😂
This is exactly what I needed to see... Great Job ! Straight to the point and no Blah Blah Blah ..
Really good video. I followed this carefully to do the job on my 2002 4Runner. Very helpful, very good. Thanks.
Thank you very much my friend your videos really help me to finish my job
Heads up; 96 Tacoma here. You have to put on the lower timing cover BEFORE you install the A/C compressor bracket and compressor. My timing cover is an OEM 4 bolt different design than the one in this video. Great video, but if you follow the sequence here, you'll have to take off the compressor and bracket (again), to get it installed.
Ask me how I know.
Appreciate the video as it was an excellent refresher from the last time I did this job...just wanted to shake off the cobwebs and it did the trick.
Awesome video man! Super easy to follow
Excellent Video! Thank you very much, couldn't have done it without this tutorial.
Outstanding video man! I saw that righty tighty till it went lefty loosely in the beginning though for the manual tensioner 😅😂 Lol
I’m about to do my wifes 3.4L Tacoma so I truely appreciate the video! I’m gonna do the crank seal and cam seals too though. This will be my second timing belt job this year (95 diesel hilux earlier and the other videos wasn’t as good as this!)
Super helpful with the torque specs! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing, very professional
Great video. Thanks for the details
Thank you for the video it helped out more than I could tell you
Whereabouts are you located? Looks like a good old Michigan vehicle
47:12 here is a trick, just get a plastic trim remover tool, put a little of WD 40 on the belt and the plastic trim remover tool were you having the problem of sliding the belt ( crank shaft sprocket ) use the plastic trim remover tool like a pry bar and the belt will slide in place with less battle, that way you avoid moving the cam shaft and keep the timing perfect.
Good God, I thought once you got that timing cover off, it was smooth sailing but that wasn’t even halfway there. That’s a big job for a water pump if that’s all that needed to be replaced
+@stopher1971 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
I've done this twice without removing the ac bracket and compressor. Not easy, but better than doing at shown here. Gotta get creative with how to remove the tensioner bolts. I think I had someone help me with the rear one. Very doable.
Correction, Crank rotate twice per one rotation of the cam. As you see crank sprocket is smaller than cam sprockets.
Great video!!! Thank you TRQ!!!
So so helpful!
Woah I don't remember needing to do all that. Just take the fan, shroud and if you're feeling extra safe pull the radiator(I didn't) and you have plenty of space to take it apart
Important correction, the "jiggle" valve or hole in the thermostat is supposed to be at the DOWNWARD on this engine, in a 6 o'clock position. It's what Toyota says to do and apparently it can make a difference.
Side Note: Toyota suggests the bleeder valve be placed at the 6 o'clock position. Why I have no idea, but I didn't burp my system proper and had unbalanced cooling etc...
Come to find out after bleeding 5 times for an hr, took everything apart... found OEM shit on the thermostat, yea 6 o'clock...
Also orientation of the washer on the tensioner matters too... not trynabe that guy but after that damn thermostat BS im not taking chances LOL
Very good video i love it 💕
Fantastic job!
Thanks for this vid it's really gonna help when I do this soon. One question, at the beginning you had a bolt break off and said you would deal with it later. I've gone thru the vid a couple times and can't see where you might have dealt with that. Any help will be appreciated because I'm sure it will happen to me as well haha. Thanks!
wow i didn't realize so much needed to be removed for this. : /
Anyone answer me
Is TOYOTA engine 5VZ-FE has EGR valve ?!
If it has where is located in engine?
Awesome video.
I'm confused, when he torques down the tensioner pulley, is it still supposed to be loose? Refer to 42:00 please.
Thank you so much help me a lot.
Is that water pump gasket designed to be installed without any sealant ?
I’ve done water pump on a 22re and it was fairly easy just time consuming… if I could do that do you y’all think this would be easy for me too?
After how many miles should I replace it
Why not remove the radiator to make more room and less chance of damage?
If it is because you don't want to loose trans fluid, I have used a hose to make a loop from 1 connection to the other.
If there is another reason, please explain.
Thank you for your input.
does anyone know what ratchet he is using? the 1 that has 2 different sized drives and telescopes, looks very handy!
What if your marks don’t line up?
mang I don't have the impact to take off the crank pulley bolt how am I supposed to do that by hand lol
The mark on my crank gear and the harmonic balancer don't line up at zero. Is that normal
As deep into the front of the engine as you are going why are you not replacing that side hose from the water pump?
I would say, that's the same as the water pump hose on small block chevy's, that's at the top of the water pump.
I'm replacing all three of my belts and the timing belt, and my radiator at the same time.
thank you.
Thermostat jiggle valve should be positioned at 6 NOT 12 o' Clock as per FSM
why didnt you pull the radiator off to have more room?
Thank you
2:38
When I timed cam sensor are on the Dot but crank sensor.why
Not crank sensor
Thanks
You got the wrong coolant 😢
God I feel sorry for you guys that have to work on rusted vehicles.
Too much work, I had one changed in my 2001 4runner and the mechanic only charged me $300 for labor, maybe he had a better way to do this
ANYONE WANTING TO KNOW HOW MANY HOURS LABOUR A GOOD GARAGE WILL CHARGE ITS 4 HOURS AND 2 HOURS TO REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET WHICH THIS 🤡SHOULD HAVE DONE AT THE SAME TIME WHEN HE ALREADY HAD 90% OF THE STUFF REMOVED.
Im haveing a problem were the time belt is like extra extremely tight and when i tighten tensioner and it starts pulling the belt at the bottom of the crank and the marks are off cuz the crankshaft shifted. What can I do to change this to the marks are all line up right?
Thank you.