How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2023
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New Control Arm from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1ASLF00528
This video shows you how to install new control arms in your 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner. Control arms are a crucial part of the suspension system of your vehicle. They not only carry the load of the vehicle to the wheel, but they typically also maintain its alignment. Control arms are typically large and strong, so you may be surprised it needs replacing. They contain rubber bushings for smoother rides at the cost of eventual wear. When those bushings run out, that can have a negative impact on the ride and safety of your vehicle.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
1996 Toyota 4Runner
1997 Toyota 4Runner
1998 Toyota 4Runner
1999 Toyota 4Runner
2000 Toyota 4Runner
2001 Toyota 4Runner
2002 Toyota 4Runner
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oQ6/1AXAA00020
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/oTE/1AXAA00010
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/obnY/1AXAA00015
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/obnY/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oadi/1AXAA00043
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oadi/1AXAA00043
• 22mm Socket 1aau.to/onL/1AXAA00266
• Grease Gun
• Straight Cutters
• 1/2 Inch Impact Gun 1aau.to/orC/1AXAA00252
• Ratchet 1aau.to/obv9/1AXAA00016
• Socket Driver
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/obnY/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oazN/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Gloves 1aau.to/oWn/1AXSS00048
• Rust Penetrant
• Safety Glasses 1aau.to/oPx/1AXAA00343
• Silicone Paste
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oZr/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oR6/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oQV/1AXAA00065
• Reciprocating Saw
• Wheel Chocks
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - Авто та транспорт
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Really appreciate your videos, they're very useful in helping me through the process...and the rust on your vehicle really makes me appreciate my desert-dweller's overall clean undercarriage appearance. That rust makes your vehicle all the better as a training aid as it shows the "real world" that can happen instead of someone's recent rebuild being taken apart.
You're the man. Concise and straight to the point. Getting ready to do both of mine. Man, my heart breaks for how rusty that old girl is. Never ending fight to keep em good.
Best video for this I've found so far! Thank you very much!
Dang! Master craftsman! You made it look easy. I can hardly spell cntorl arm.
Outstanding video. Thank you for helping me successfully replacing mine!!
Thanks for sharing! For the driver's side cam bolt, I removed the 3 PS line brackets (12mmx2, 10mmx1) and loosened the 2 intermediate steering shaft bolts (12mm), then used a pry bar to slip the rack back and up enough to clear the bolt under the tie rod boot. Might have been overkill, but was relatively easy.
Steering rack passenger x2 and center verticle bolt - 19mm, driver's side 22mm.
Titanic looks like it’s in better shape than that 4Runner 😂
Thanks for showing that the Control Arm bolts are what needs to be unscrewed instead of the nuts. I tried to loosen the nuts to no avail, because, just like you said, they are held in place by the offset alignment washers. Fortunately the bolts unscrewed with no issues. But on the left side the rack-and-pinion steering gear had to be completely removed to let the bolt slide out. ('96 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with automatic transmission)
Thanks for showing the 4th bolt (the one that screws in from the top) on the rack-and-pinion steering gear. That one is definitely out of sight. The automatic transmission bell housing and a casting bump for a bolt only left enough room to initially fit the breaker bar in. It was too tight to get a ratchet in there. And I had to finish the bolt extraction with a flat box end wrench since that is all that would fit. All of my ratcheting box end wrenches were offset and therefore also did not fit. It was a lengthy ordeal to remove that bolt, one miniscule fraction of turn at a time.
I have decided to not re-use that bolt since it would be difficult to even get that bolt started again and then wrench on it for another half hour one fraction of a turn at-a-time. So, I measured the bolt and it is 0.510" thick, close enough for a 1/2" bolt to replace it. None of the local car parts stored carried what I was looking for. I found 1/2" HARDENED steel bolts at Ace Hardware Store "Ace is the place with the helpful hardware man!" and so I bought one that is 1/2" longer to accommodate putting a nut on the end of the bolt. I will insert the bolt from below( I will probably need to use a rat-tail file to file the threads out of the permanent nut to let the new bolt slide in) and put the nut and washers up from above. For about $6.50 I bought the Hardened Steel bolt, two flat washers, a split lock washer and a nut. With plenty of blue Loctite to keep it from ever coming loose and falling out on it's own.
This way it will be so much easier the next time in another 100,000 miles!
Great job sir! Thanks I have much more info that I didnt know!
That's look amazing video to learn . I need to do all that stuff on my Tacoma pre runner 04.
Thanks guys for those greats videos so I can do by myself. .
Excelente video muchas gracias por compartir conocimiento
Nice video master 👍 very well explained
Все вроде нормально. За одним исключением.
Тянуть надо болт, а не гайку с прессшайбой! Так как на гайке спрессшайбой идут насечки, чтоб гайка не отвернулась.
You have excellent videos thanks 🙏
Love the video. Just noticed the bushings are numbered. Which go where? There are two labeled #4 and two labeled #2
great video
i did my driver side yesterday and damn that steering shadt was a pain in the bunhole to remove the bolt and sleve. im hoping the pasanger side is more simple.
In a previous video titled “Replacing front sway bar link” for the exact same vehicle you said the bottom bolt torque spec was 51ft lbs. In this video you said the same bolt was 59ft lbs. I’m confused which one is it? 59ft lbs or 51ft lbs?
Next time put the nut back on then hammer the bolt protect those splines
That's a scary amount of rust!!!
Guess what, if you're doing the driver's side you can't move the steering rack up enough to get the dang rear bolt out. Grrrr
That's why I don't live on the mid to east coast. Salt will ruin your car or truck.