Very very good video. Walks you through every step, very detailed, and educational. You made this job possible for me to complete. Thank you. Keep up the good work and helping us comon folk.
Timmy the toolman has a great video on this job. You also did a fantastic job here, and when I finally get around to performing this task on both of my 3.4l's I'll be utilizing both videos. Yours was short but really well organized. Thank you for this, great job!
Thanks for sharing! I also find it helpful to analyze how multiple people did the job and sometimes you still come up with something new that worked better for you. Good luck on both of your Yota’s!!
Just finished doing this job on my 2004 Tacoma, it's running great! Appreciate the video and the tight editing. Keeping the video under 20 minutes really makes this a good reference.
Congratulations! Definitely not a small task (luckily it doesn’t have to be performed very often). I do my best to create videos without fluff….just get to the point….so glad you found this video helpful!
Incredible video. This is the winner for which video I'm going to follow along with while doing the same job. Your inclusion of torque specs and differences between model years is top-notch. Thanks for sharing the knowledge ❤
Excellent overview and video. Not the first video which came up from my search but definitely the best. Found the reassemblyreally useful especially the torque settings Thank you for the effort in putting this together
Thank you! Some of my UA-cam hero’s are @ericthecarguy and @chrisfix . We all learn differently so it’s nice to have multiple people showing different ways and I’m glad you found this video helpful!
Nice video! It is easier to just cut to the chase and get the radiator out of your way first. As soon as you drain it, disconnect the hoses and remove the 4 mount bolts and it will lift straight up, no need to remove the shroud, it has a notch in the bottom of the shroud to clear the fan. Way easier to get that out of the way before you do fan and belts... Also a good idea to tape a piece of cardboard where the radiator was, to protect the back side of the A/C condenser so you don’t damage it while tools are flailing…
Bloody awesome video . Informative , accurate and straight to the point . Great how you have sped up the parts that dont require much demonstration like undoing a bolt . Thanks very much for your production .
Thank you for the detail, started weeks ago and just getting back to it. First Toyota I’ve really worked on so the unfamiliarity isn’t helping. Great job!
nicely done.I like Timmy but I learned some new tricks on this job from you. I didn't understand the crank pulley bolt. The new bolt I received for my 98 has an 11 on the head and the old bolt has a nine which is 184 ft lbs. Should I torque the new higher torque bold to the original torque of 184 or to 217?
You should replace the bolt with the same style you had, and if that’s not an option there’s a description in this video about torquing both types of bolts
There was much debate. In my professional opinion it goes at 12 o’clock. I did this job July 2021 and there hasn’t been a problem with the engine or any sort of overheating so I’m going to continue to push for 12 o’clock.
Most air bubbles rise to the top to be vented. I know it's confusing, because the Toyota manual clearly say install thermostat with jiggle value downward. I think the manual is wrong.
The Toyota manual is correct about putting it at 6 o'clock. I have no debate with the general concept of the valve going at the top for most applications, but in this case it does not. It has been verified many times, and if you use a scangauge/etc to monitor your coolant temperature, you'll see the engine runs correctly & cooler (10°+) with the valve at the bottom. You will never know this if you base it on the needle on the dash, because it's a dummy gauge that doesn't move up until the engine starts to get too warm. This has been verified by Toyota, and confirmed in action by many who have tried it both ways.
just watched your video, followed it and bingo oil leak from cam seal fixed, all new seals, rollers n belts on. Thanks much for this video...Saved my bacon and several hundred bucks. Do have a question about the A/C tension pully. Made tons on noise (squealing) after starting the rig. Loosened up on the tension which made the noise go away, but it doesn't seem to be rolling. Is it just a guide for the belt or is it bad as well? If it's bad how hard is it to replace? Thanks again for the vids. I'm subscribed and you'll be first place I go if something else comes up with our 4runner.
So happy to hear you solved your oil leak! If the tensioner pulley isn’t moving I would replace it (pretty inexpensive and easy fix after everything you’ve been through. You can leave the a/c belt off for now so you don’t burn it up
So I got the crank pulley bolt off on my 99 Tacoma, the stock bolt is the exact bolt listed here as the 96-98 and the one I bought to replace it is the 99-02. A bit confused as this is the first time this bolt has ever been removed…(My dad bought this truck brand new). The new one is a bit longer and I ordered straight from Toyota. Should I use the new one or return and get one for a 98??? The truck is definitely a 99
Great video -- thank you! I've seen conflicting information on whether the little relief poppet in the thermostat goes up or down. Why does it go pointing upward?
Yes, lots of conflicting info surrounding this. I’ve seen the books says 6 o’clock sometimes but I put mine at 12 and haven’t had a problem. The reason why is because of gravity and airflow. The relief valve usually goes to the top because if air is stuck in the system it can escape through the valve but air doesn’t travel on the bottom of the system, it travels at the top. Hope that helps!
You’ve got a new sub! I like how your level of instruction assumes that I’m a mechanic, and I am, so the sped up parts doing mundane things are greatly appreciated. Your editing is great! I can watch one of your videos like this one, and the video is concise enough to allow me to still remember what you took off to get it done. Bravo! I’m a new sub, I’ve been working on cars since 1977, with my first keeper car, a ‘67 Camaro SS350 while stationed at Cherry Point, NC. Seeing all that wide open timing case with the radiator out tugged at my fond memory of the last belt change. I love working on my ‘98 T100!!!
It’s the little things like the timing of the pulling of the grenade pin, and pulling the fan shroud with the fan at the same time, I found that out back in 2004, when I changed my first 5vzfe timing belt. I’ve done this job twice, and I’m overdue for the belt. I’ll be replacing everything this time, pulleys, tensioner, all idlers, and the belts in my kit are all Toyota/Mitsuboshi. While I’m in there, I’ll also be replacing the oil pump assembly, and adding an oil cooler. Thanks for the hard work, it’s funny that the work takes less time than the editing! You’re awesome, not only a straight A mechanic, but a video editor and the main star of the show as well!
Mine is supercharged, and overdriven by a 2.0” pulley, the smallest available, and it makes 11 pounds of instantaneous boost. I’m 65 now, so I’m having a good time with it! Long time street cruiser in my old ‘67 Camaro SS*350 with the hideaway headlights.
There’s a couple people that told me there’s some special way to get a combination of extensions and swivels in some hidden space to not have to take the a/c bracket off, but I think it was easier than having to work with something you can’t see
How long (hours) would this job take for a mechanic to do on average? A mechanic and not a DIY lay person. This video is so detail it is prenominal. Also, I have been looking at the timing belt kits that include everything you have listed and a few more (14 pieces total). My timing belt was done at 98K and has been well taken care of. It is a Texas truck with no rest. I am thinking of doing the timing belt kit because I do not know if the timing belt has been done since that time. My truck is a 2001 4runner limited 2WD, 3.4. Thank you
I don’t know what the flat rate time is for this job but I would say probably 3 hours for an experienced mechanic. Be careful about what parts you buy if you want your truck to last. Aisin is a good choice if you’re going to buy anything other than Toyota parts, otherwise find parts with a good warranty because you know they were built well.
@@GirlieGarage Thank you for your fast response. I am looking at kits that have either OEM Toyota parts or Aisin. The master kit I am looking at cost around $350-$400 and have mostly Toyota parts, except a few which are Koyo, NSK, and Aisin. The kits that are in the $250 range have belts that are Bando.
Most new water pumps come with a gasket that should not need gasket maker. If you do not have a gasket, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on what type of gasket maker and how thick
Wow, you did a excellent job with this video. I don’t think I’ve seen another repair video this good. No BS, strait to the point, very well explained and I could actually see and understand what you were doing. Thanks, great job
What an excellent presentation! I love how you also detail the torque that should be applied to tighten each bolt. This important detail helps us non-professionals and first-time DIY-ers. I've subscribed as a result. Look forward to more of your videos.
I just did this job using this video as well as one on another channel. There is a discrepancy in your description of the position of the thermostat jiggle valve. You said it should be in the 12 o’clock position but the factory service manual says it should be in the downward position.
@@zombiewarengineeringthank you for clarifying. I hunted a lot for the answer that I chose. The short version for me to explain my final decision is that I put the relief valve in the 12 o’clock position because if air needs to escape, usually it travels at the top of the lines. I did this job a couple years ago and the 4runner has been very happy (no overheating). If your FSM says to put it at 6 o’clock I would stick with that.
Thanks for the great video. So much important information in this video is left out of other how to videos, and difficult to find in the repair manual.
Thank for the video, is it necessary to remove the timing belts and whatnot to do just the water pump? Thanks 👍 ive only got to replace the radiator and the water pump is all haha
Yes, the water pump is run by the belt, so I would follow the video to the point of taking the belt off, however if you’re going to be in there doing all that work anyway it might behoove you to just replace the timing belt and pulleys at the same time
@@GirlieGarage on a bit of a budget otherwise I'd take the advice and replace the rest as well. For now the biggest concerns is the radiator and water pump leaking and causing overheating. But ill keep those parts in mind. Thank you for the reply also 👍 this all really helps!
Great video I’m gearing up to do my belt and valve cover gasket’s also. There’s a lot to both of them but they are doable. Just pay attention to detail.
As long as you don’t get debris in the coolant hoses while they are open and exposed you should be fine. Otherwise you can do a quick coolant flush while you have then system open
Do you have a suggestion for getting a stuck pully sprocket off? I mean one that’s like Stuck Stuck!! I tried a puller but it will not budge and the long puller bolts that thread into the sprocket start to bend…..
If you mean the drive pulley (the one behind the harmonic balancer, I would suggest that you plan to break it (buy a new one) because the teeth are really fragile. I’m surprised a puller didn’t work, but you should be able to get two pry bars behind it with the belt off. Also soak it in penetrating oil a couple times. Heat may also be a good tool for you in this case
@@900cubes I think a last ditch effort would be to drill holes in it, tap some threads, then put bolts in there so that you can have something to pull on
Hello, this is a great video - probably the best I've seen for this job. I have a question that is slightly different for my situation. How do I place the engine at TDC where all 3 marks align (2 camshaft sprockets and crankshaft) if my belt snapped while driving it and now I'm replacing it. Do I just physically align each one separately with a socket and ratchet? Thanks for the time and a great video.
@@GirlieGarage So turn the crank by hand independently of turning each camshaft gear by hand? With the belt on, the camshaft gears turn in unison. There's no problem turning each gear individually to align with the mark as long as I do it clockwise?
@@carczar956the 5VZ-FE is a non-interference engine so yes, you should be able to turn the crank separately from the cams and get ALL the timing marks lined back up. It will be very important for you once you have the belt back on to rotate the engine by hand multiple times, then re-check the timing marks
Finally, a repair video that actually shows the action needed, not camera shots for no reason. I have 50+ years experience and the work shown was business like and efficient. By the way, I pull the radiator because I have that pesky Y chromosome and it prevents me from poking a hole in it when I get irritated. Women don't usually have that problem.
Thank you, I like videos that show me what I need to know without fluff so I’m glad to hear you like that too. I literally laughed out loud about needed to remove the radiator. If you’re due for a coolant flush, it’s not too much of an extra step to do that while you’re in there! Hope the job went smoothly for you!
Great video, thank you! It has been very helpful. Can you please list what kind of puller and bolts are you using at 7:20? My timing gear is really stuck on the crank and those 6mm bolts you are using with your puller look far more sturdy than anything I could find in my spare bolts bucket.
I rented a puller from O’Reilly’s. Most auto parts stores do some sort of rental program so hopefully you have near you that has a harmonic balancer puller kit! You might also be able to find one at Harbor Freight or as a last resort Amazon: amzn.to/3isOoYv
Haha, thank you. I’m mobile and virtual (offer automotive consulting and education). This was 2 days only because I found some surprises in this engine and had to deal with them properly.
"Make sure all your tools are out of the engine bay" Great advice! I have a friend who left his ratchet on the crank bolt of his 4.7 Tundra after doing a transmission swap and started the engine.
@@imhlive🤦♀️ wow! I feel like that’s one of those stories that you need to make up something extreme, like “I was working on the car when a stray alligator wandered into my yard, rather than having my toes taken off, I jumped in and fired up the tundra, luckily the only thing damaged was my crank bolt” 😂
I have been doing mechanic work for over 15 years and this is by far the best mechanical how-to video I believe I have ever seen thank you. You made this job look so easy. 😁
Well, the power of editing. You know that this job isn’t easy, I just try not to include all the boring stuff while I figured out what technique worked best for me (to share here). I’m really glad you found this video helpful! It makes it all worth it!!
Overcoming self doubt was my worst enemy. Without your videos probly would have 3 times as long. Im grateful for the advice from your videos and my buddy dave. My truck is over heating. I should have watched more diagnostic videos. Thermostat was first, it was shiney and new looking and it worked in hot water. There was no water leaking, And the water pump was cleaner then the engine. it made my guts churn thinking that pump is new. There were colord wire twists all over the engine. It really looked like some one has rebuilt it or atleast changed stuff many miles ago. 8inch 3 claw puller and the longesr bar then needed and i lost it my nerve. I was pulling so hard that the puller bolts were bending and the whole truck was tryn to move. I gave up. I left over night with penitrating oil and under maximum strain i could muster lol. Seriously i feel terrably defeated. I slept good though. My buddy dave said just pull harder. I woke up and decided something was going to break. The harmonic balancer was epoxyed to the crank shaft. The guild plate behind it was smotherd with it. I almost cryed. I spend hours tryn to get the belt on with the guide plate. Its not possible. Turns out the 3 claw puller, 1 claw on and the main bolt and wow it acted like a hamer and i was able to break off the guide ring. Crisis over. No more surprises. A clean water pump install and re assembly. Even got the timeing stuff perfectly. BTW, i had to inovate the hydrolic tension thing, squished in a clamp and a needle pick in the hole, like a new one. Lol. All the seals needed to be repalced, mmm i hope i dont look back in regret. Drove it home. It fully over heated. Checking the coolent and it just seems to have a steady stream of bubbles, none stop. This is a differnt sign. Bad head or block. I hope you have a video on doing the heads lol. Thats all the follow up i have for now. Thanks again. 😁🥰🤑
@@Id10tRex You should be very proud of yourself for tackling the job! I made another video on the 5vzfe (3rd gen 4Runner) and you'll notice that the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer was also fastened on with gasket maker. Test for a blown head gasket before tackling that job. If you have a good machinist in town, it's honestly not that bad of a job and your truck will be like new (at least the top end). Thank you for sharing your story.
You don’t need to remove the ac compressor or bracket. You can get to the rear tensioner bolt with an extension and 12mm swivel. You just need to look for the small access area underneath.
Thank you for that, it definitely would have been helpful when completing this job. Can you share a link to anywhere on the internet where someone shows this access hole to help future DIY’ers?
I’m a master diesel technician. One of the best videos I’ve seen. I can’t believe more folks haven’t watched it.
Wow, I am very humbled....thank you!
Very very good video. Walks you through every step, very detailed, and educational. You made this job possible for me to complete. Thank you. Keep up the good work and helping us comon folk.
I’m a UA-cam expert and I agree.
I agree
Without a doubt, one of the most detailed and complete videos I have ever seen on this project. Well done. I have subscribed.
.
Thank you! So glad you found it helpful!
Timmy the toolman has a great video on this job. You also did a fantastic job here, and when I finally get around to performing this task on both of my 3.4l's I'll be utilizing both videos. Yours was short but really well organized. Thank you for this, great job!
Thanks for sharing! I also find it helpful to analyze how multiple people did the job and sometimes you still come up with something new that worked better for you. Good luck on both of your Yota’s!!
Is it necessary to coat a sealant on water pump gasket. Kindly reply.
Thank you for having a straight up repair video. I’m a senior master tech. Great camera angles. I think this will encourage a lot of people. Congrats
Thank you! That really means a lot. I’m sure you know exactly how hard it is to do the job let alone do it while filming it 😂
Just finished doing this job on my 2004 Tacoma, it's running great! Appreciate the video and the tight editing. Keeping the video under 20 minutes really makes this a good reference.
Congratulations! Definitely not a small task (luckily it doesn’t have to be performed very often). I do my best to create videos without fluff….just get to the point….so glad you found this video helpful!
Incredible video. This is the winner for which video I'm going to follow along with while doing the same job. Your inclusion of torque specs and differences between model years is top-notch. Thanks for sharing the knowledge ❤
So glad you found it helpful!
This for sure is the best tutorial I’ve seen on this job. If I was brave enough to tackle this job this video would be the one to follow on.
Excellent overview and video. Not the first video which came up from my search but definitely the best. Found the reassemblyreally useful especially the torque settings Thank you for the effort in putting this together
So glad to hear you found the video helpful!!
One of the best detailed repair videos I’ve ever seen on UA-cam. Thank you.
I’m so glad you found it helpful 😆
this is the easiest mechanic video to follow that i’ve ever watched. didn’t over explain and did it right
so much detail! 👌 truly one of the best tutorial videos out there
This is why more women should be mechanics. So thorough and wonderful communication. Thank you!
Thank you! Some of my UA-cam hero’s are @ericthecarguy and @chrisfix . We all learn differently so it’s nice to have multiple people showing different ways and I’m glad you found this video helpful!
Nice video! It is easier to just cut to the chase and get the radiator out of your way first. As soon as you drain it, disconnect the hoses and remove the 4 mount bolts and it will lift straight up, no need to remove the shroud, it has a notch in the bottom of the shroud to clear the fan. Way easier to get that out of the way before you do fan and belts... Also a good idea to tape a piece of cardboard where the radiator was, to protect the back side of the A/C condenser so you don’t damage it while tools are flailing…
Bloody awesome video . Informative , accurate and straight to the point . Great how you have sped up the parts that dont require much demonstration like undoing a bolt . Thanks very much for your production .
You’re very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the detail, started weeks ago and just getting back to it. First Toyota I’ve really worked on so the unfamiliarity isn’t helping. Great job!
Glad to hear you found the video helpful!
nicely done.I like Timmy but I learned some new tricks on this job from you. I didn't understand the crank pulley bolt. The new bolt I received for my 98 has an 11 on the head and the old bolt has a nine which is 184 ft lbs. Should I torque the new higher torque bold to the original torque of 184 or to 217?
You should replace the bolt with the same style you had, and if that’s not an option there’s a description in this video about torquing both types of bolts
Excellent video which doesn't waste your time.
Great job ,very well done. You walked me right through my project.
Congratulations on completing it successfully!
I notice you put the jiggle on the thermostat at the 12 o’clock position. I keep hearing 6 o’clock position.
There was much debate. In my professional opinion it goes at 12 o’clock. I did this job July 2021 and there hasn’t been a problem with the engine or any sort of overheating so I’m going to continue to push for 12 o’clock.
@@GirlieGarage thank you 🙏
Most air bubbles rise to the top to be vented. I know it's confusing, because the Toyota manual clearly say install thermostat with jiggle value downward. I think the manual is wrong.
The Toyota manual is correct about putting it at 6 o'clock. I have no debate with the general concept of the valve going at the top for most applications, but in this case it does not. It has been verified many times, and if you use a scangauge/etc to monitor your coolant temperature, you'll see the engine runs correctly & cooler (10°+) with the valve at the bottom. You will never know this if you base it on the needle on the dash, because it's a dummy gauge that doesn't move up until the engine starts to get too warm. This has been verified by Toyota, and confirmed in action by many who have tried it both ways.
Excellent video !! Very descriptive and informative. Well done.
What bolt size fit in the drive pulley. Is it also m8x1.25??
thank you, this is a great video! clear and concise instruction. well done on the editing too, good flow and run time!
This is a great video. You have my thanks and appreciation.
Very good and clear instructions. Thank you.
Solid Video !!! Awesome work Thank you
Best video I've seen on this subject... Thank you
So glad you found it helpful!
Good job, first time I've ever heard anyone explain why there was two different torque settings for the crankshaft pully bolt.
Thank you. I found that frustrating too, so hopefully the news will spread!
Thanks for the video, will try to do this during the summer, will probably watch this video 50 more times!
Haha! Let us know how it goes and good luck!
just watched your video, followed it and bingo oil leak from cam seal fixed, all new seals, rollers n belts on. Thanks much for this video...Saved my bacon and several hundred bucks. Do have a question about the A/C tension pully. Made tons on noise (squealing) after starting the rig. Loosened up on the tension which made the noise go away, but it doesn't seem to be rolling. Is it just a guide for the belt or is it bad as well? If it's bad how hard is it to replace? Thanks again for the vids. I'm subscribed and you'll be first place I go if something else comes up with our 4runner.
So happy to hear you solved your oil leak! If the tensioner pulley isn’t moving I would replace it (pretty inexpensive and easy fix after everything you’ve been through. You can leave the a/c belt off for now so you don’t burn it up
Thank you grandmaster ❤🙏
On the tensioner for the timing belt, how were you able to get the pin in? I’m having difficulty compressing the tensioner to fit the pin…
There are some good videos on this specifically. If you can’t do it with your hands, sometimes I use a c-clamp because I don’t have a vice
So I got the crank pulley bolt off on my 99 Tacoma, the stock bolt is the exact bolt listed here as the 96-98 and the one I bought to replace it is the 99-02. A bit confused as this is the first time this bolt has ever been removed…(My dad bought this truck brand new). The new one is a bit longer and I ordered straight from Toyota. Should I use the new one or return and get one for a 98??? The truck is definitely a 99
You should return it and get the correct bolt, parts people are humans too, mistakes sometimes happen
Great video -- thank you! I've seen conflicting information on whether the little relief poppet in the thermostat goes up or down. Why does it go pointing upward?
Yes, lots of conflicting info surrounding this. I’ve seen the books says 6 o’clock sometimes but I put mine at 12 and haven’t had a problem. The reason why is because of gravity and airflow. The relief valve usually goes to the top because if air is stuck in the system it can escape through the valve but air doesn’t travel on the bottom of the system, it travels at the top. Hope that helps!
That was Kewl!! Thank You 💪💯💪💯💪💯
Excellent video great job.
You’ve got a new sub!
I like how your level of instruction assumes that I’m a mechanic, and I am, so the sped up parts doing mundane things are greatly appreciated. Your editing is great! I can watch one of your videos like this one, and the video is concise enough to allow me to still remember what you took off to get it done. Bravo! I’m a new sub, I’ve been working on cars since 1977, with my first keeper car, a ‘67 Camaro SS350 while stationed at Cherry Point, NC. Seeing all that wide open timing case with the radiator out tugged at my fond memory of the last belt change. I love working on my ‘98 T100!!!
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! The filming and editing on this one took around 20-30 hours so I’m really happy that it’s helping people!
It’s the little things like the timing of the pulling of the grenade pin, and pulling the fan shroud with the fan at the same time, I found that out back in 2004, when I changed my first 5vzfe timing belt. I’ve done this job twice, and I’m overdue for the belt. I’ll be replacing everything this time, pulleys, tensioner, all idlers, and the belts in my kit are all Toyota/Mitsuboshi. While I’m in there, I’ll also be replacing the oil pump assembly, and adding an oil cooler. Thanks for the hard work, it’s funny that the work takes less time than the editing!
You’re awesome, not only a straight A mechanic, but a video editor and the main star of the show as well!
Mine is supercharged, and overdriven by a 2.0” pulley, the smallest available, and it makes 11 pounds of instantaneous boost. I’m 65 now, so I’m having a good time with it! Long time street cruiser in my old ‘67 Camaro SS*350 with the hideaway headlights.
I have a 2001 Tacoma, it was a misrebel, mother f to tack off the ac compreser bracket. I will never do this job again.
There’s a couple people that told me there’s some special way to get a combination of extensions and swivels in some hidden space to not have to take the a/c bracket off, but I think it was easier than having to work with something you can’t see
Thanks so much for the video. Diving into this project now. Did you happen to remember what thermostat was used?
I’m not very picky on thermostats, I got this one from OREILLYS (they usually have a limited lifetime warranty)
How long (hours) would this job take for a mechanic to do on average? A mechanic and not a DIY lay person. This video is so detail it is prenominal. Also, I have been looking at the timing belt kits that include everything you have listed and a few more (14 pieces total). My timing belt was done at 98K and has been well taken care of. It is a Texas truck with no rest. I am thinking of doing the timing belt kit because I do not know if the timing belt has been done since that time. My truck is a 2001 4runner limited 2WD, 3.4. Thank you
I don’t know what the flat rate time is for this job but I would say probably 3 hours for an experienced mechanic. Be careful about what parts you buy if you want your truck to last. Aisin is a good choice if you’re going to buy anything other than Toyota parts, otherwise find parts with a good warranty because you know they were built well.
@@GirlieGarage Thank you for your fast response. I am looking at kits that have either OEM Toyota parts or Aisin. The master kit I am looking at cost around $350-$400 and have mostly Toyota parts, except a few which are Koyo, NSK, and Aisin. The kits that are in the $250 range have belts that are Bando.
how long did this job take you? i’m gonna have to find a day to take off work when the parts get here
It really depends on how familiar you are with this engine. It’s a long job and you should have buffer time in case something breaks
Excellent video!! Very straightforward and informative. Nice camera work!
When you are installing water pump do you coat the gasket with a sealant or not necessary.
Most new water pumps come with a gasket that should not need gasket maker. If you do not have a gasket, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on what type of gasket maker and how thick
Wow, you did a excellent job with this video. I don’t think I’ve seen another repair video this good. No BS, strait to the point, very well explained and I could actually see and understand what you were doing. Thanks, great job
What an excellent presentation! I love how you also detail the torque that should be applied to tighten each bolt. This important detail helps us non-professionals and first-time DIY-ers. I've subscribed as a result. Look forward to more of your videos.
Could I torque my cam and crank bolts after I put on my belt?
I wouldn’t recommend it because a loose pulley could cause the belt to move teeth
I just did this job using this video as well as one on another channel. There is a discrepancy in your description of the position of the thermostat jiggle valve. You said it should be in the 12 o’clock position but the factory service manual says it should be in the downward position.
Are you actually using the FSM or a Haynes (or similar) manual?
I have the FSM. My engine runs 15 degrees cooler with the thermostat jiggle valve in the 6 o’clock position rather than the 12
@@zombiewarengineeringthank you for clarifying. I hunted a lot for the answer that I chose. The short version for me to explain my final decision is that I put the relief valve in the 12 o’clock position because if air needs to escape, usually it travels at the top of the lines. I did this job a couple years ago and the 4runner has been very happy (no overheating). If your FSM says to put it at 6 o’clock I would stick with that.
Thanks for the great video. So much important information in this video is left out of other how to videos, and difficult to find in the repair manual.
Its a Goddess Mech 😮😮😮
Thank you so much for this video! I just finished this job on my 97 4runner, and your video was so helpful 🙏 😊
Wohoo! Congrats on completing this big job and saving yourself $$$
@@GirlieGarage thanks! I probably saved $2K doing this myself. It took longer than I hoped, but your video was soooooo helpful 🙏
How long did it take you to do this job? Great tutorial by the way. 🤓
Maybe 4-5 hours….with running to the store once or twice
Methodical and thorough teardown and reassembly. Thank you.
Thank for the video, is it necessary to remove the timing belts and whatnot to do just the water pump? Thanks 👍 ive only got to replace the radiator and the water pump is all haha
Yes, the water pump is run by the belt, so I would follow the video to the point of taking the belt off, however if you’re going to be in there doing all that work anyway it might behoove you to just replace the timing belt and pulleys at the same time
@@GirlieGarage on a bit of a budget otherwise I'd take the advice and replace the rest as well. For now the biggest concerns is the radiator and water pump leaking and causing overheating. But ill keep those parts in mind. Thank you for the reply also 👍 this all really helps!
congratulations, what a great video. Do you have any video on how to change the valve tires? 5vz motor. Greetings from Venezuela
I mean motor valve gasket or tire, in spanish is GOMAS DE VALVULA. I need yo know how replace It. my prado send smoke only in the morning.
Do you mean the “head gasket”, the valves at the top of the engine, or a rubber tire valve (not in the engine)?
Right to the point, well
Spoken, she knows her
Stuff. Great job and thanks for showing us how it's done.
Such a great video! Thanks for sharing the wrench sizes and torque specs needed. Saves a ton of time!
Great video I’m gearing up to do my belt and valve cover gasket’s also. There’s a lot to both of them but they are doable. Just pay attention to detail.
Creative girl!!!’
Great video, thank you for sharing. Wish you success on your journey...
Great video! Very good detailed work. Thank you! New subscriber. 👍
Is it necessary to do a coolant flush when doing this?
As long as you don’t get debris in the coolant hoses while they are open and exposed you should be fine. Otherwise you can do a quick coolant flush while you have then system open
Do you have a suggestion for getting a stuck pully sprocket off? I mean one that’s like Stuck Stuck!! I tried a puller but it will not budge and the long puller bolts that thread into the sprocket start to bend…..
If you mean the drive pulley (the one behind the harmonic balancer, I would suggest that you plan to break it (buy a new one) because the teeth are really fragile. I’m surprised a puller didn’t work, but you should be able to get two pry bars behind it with the belt off. Also soak it in penetrating oil a couple times. Heat may also be a good tool for you in this case
@@GirlieGarage yeah teeth were already broken so I bought a new one but no matter what I’ve tried I can’t get the old one off. It’s on there good.
@@900cubes I think a last ditch effort would be to drill holes in it, tap some threads, then put bolts in there so that you can have something to pull on
For some reason the vid thumbnail shows the 3.slow instead of the 3.4 :D
Always disconnect the positive cable to the battery when working on vehicle engine.
cost
Hello, this is a great video - probably the best I've seen for this job. I have a question that is slightly different for my situation. How do I place the engine at TDC where all 3 marks align (2 camshaft sprockets and crankshaft) if my belt snapped while driving it and now I'm replacing it. Do I just physically align each one separately with a socket and ratchet? Thanks for the time and a great video.
Yes, you physically align them by hand. I would see if you can find any videos/forums on that specifically, but always turn the engine clockwise
@@GirlieGarage So turn the crank by hand independently of turning each camshaft gear by hand? With the belt on, the camshaft gears turn in unison. There's no problem turning each gear individually to align with the mark as long as I do it clockwise?
@@carczar956the 5VZ-FE is a non-interference engine so yes, you should be able to turn the crank separately from the cams and get ALL the timing marks lined back up. It will be very important for you once you have the belt back on to rotate the engine by hand multiple times, then re-check the timing marks
@@GirlieGarage Thank you 😊
This was a very good video, simple, easy to watch, and no unnecessary nonsense. Thank you
Nice video. Hi can we star up the engine in dead top center after replacing the timing belt?
I would love to see it run at the end of the video. Thank you for your guides and hard work, congratulations, and keep on going!
Nice job
One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen, thank you
I did all in this video but my engine lost idling
Are all your sensors hooked back up? Not vacuum leaks?
Está perrón este video por fin encontré un vídeo que cumple con mis espectativas
Too 2 videos of performing this job I’ve seen.
You're amazing! I from RUS and this video helped me to change timing belt and water pump im my Hilux Surf 215 by myself. Thank you so much!
So glad you found this video helpful based on the engine that Toyota used worldwide!
Your very thorough and easy to follow. Thank you
Finally, a repair video that actually shows the action needed, not camera shots for no reason. I have 50+ years experience and the work shown was business like and efficient. By the way, I pull the radiator because I have that pesky Y chromosome and it prevents me from poking a hole in it when I get irritated. Women don't usually have that problem.
Thank you, I like videos that show me what I need to know without fluff so I’m glad to hear you like that too. I literally laughed out loud about needed to remove the radiator. If you’re due for a coolant flush, it’s not too much of an extra step to do that while you’re in there!
Hope the job went smoothly for you!
Does the Aisin kit include crank & cam seals?
No, usually those are separate
@@GirlieGarage thanks. Enjoyed your video. Im about to start this process.
Thank you for this video. I watched it several times and found it invaluable for my project.
So glad you found it helpful!
Wow amazing. I will be using this video to replace my timing belt and water pump. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Let us know how it goes!
Great video, thank you! It has been very helpful. Can you please list what kind of puller and bolts are you using at 7:20? My timing gear is really stuck on the crank and those 6mm bolts you are using with your puller look far more sturdy than anything I could find in my spare bolts bucket.
I rented a puller from O’Reilly’s. Most auto parts stores do some sort of rental program so hopefully you have near you that has a harmonic balancer puller kit! You might also be able to find one at Harbor Freight or as a last resort Amazon: amzn.to/3isOoYv
That was awesome. All you need is a mobile garage, and you'd be a billionaire.
Was this all in one day?! Got a water pump issue myself.
Haha, thank you. I’m mobile and virtual (offer automotive consulting and education).
This was 2 days only because I found some surprises in this engine and had to deal with them properly.
This is Step by step video. Thanks.
I'm about to do this now...uggg... thanks for the video 🙂
You’ve got this!
"Make sure all your tools are out of the engine bay" Great advice! I have a friend who left his ratchet on the crank bolt of his 4.7 Tundra after doing a transmission swap and started the engine.
I bet that was loud as it shot off while the engine was running! Hopefully it didn’t damage anything 😂
@@GirlieGarage luckily he was able to retap the crank the same size and put in a new bolt
@@imhlive🤦♀️ wow! I feel like that’s one of those stories that you need to make up something extreme, like “I was working on the car when a stray alligator wandered into my yard, rather than having my toes taken off, I jumped in and fired up the tundra, luckily the only thing damaged was my crank bolt” 😂
Good job and perfect video.
Great video, thanks for the attention to details
Is the knock sensor under the intake?
Looks like a big pita and you did it in under 18 min that's incredible very nicely done and detailed
Thank you! I did do a ton of editing (25+ hours) to boil it down to what’s most important for you all. Hopefully it helps!!
Best how to video ever
Excellent!
Hi can ask if did you do the throttle motor repair or throttle body and do you video?
I don’t understand the question?
@@GirlieGarage i mean, do you video hor test the TPS sensor and throttle body of toyota 4runner 2002 3.4 V6
Great video
WOW What a big job.
I have been doing mechanic work for over 15 years and this is by far the best mechanical how-to video I believe I have ever seen thank you. You made this job look so easy. 😁
Well, the power of editing. You know that this job isn’t easy, I just try not to include all the boring stuff while I figured out what technique worked best for me (to share here). I’m really glad you found this video helpful! It makes it all worth it!!
@@GirlieGarage well. I used your vid as a step by step, And tackled the job it took me about 5 hours. Thank you so much.
@@matthewglaze5398 wow! Congratulations! 5 hours is pretty smooth. So happy to hear that you did it yourself and saved money!
Good job
Thank you for the video. I have to do this in the morning. The details are very good.
I hope it went well for you!
Overcoming self doubt was my worst enemy. Without your videos probly would have 3 times as long. Im grateful for the advice from your videos and my buddy dave. My truck is over heating. I should have watched more diagnostic videos. Thermostat was first, it was shiney and new looking and it worked in hot water. There was no water leaking, And the water pump was cleaner then the engine. it made my guts churn thinking that pump is new. There were colord wire twists all over the engine. It really looked like some one has rebuilt it or atleast changed stuff many miles ago. 8inch 3 claw puller and the longesr bar then needed and i lost it my nerve. I was pulling so hard that the puller bolts were bending and the whole truck was tryn to move. I gave up. I left over night with penitrating oil and under maximum strain i could muster lol. Seriously i feel terrably defeated. I slept good though. My buddy dave said just pull harder. I woke up and decided something was going to break. The harmonic balancer was epoxyed to the crank shaft. The guild plate behind it was smotherd with it. I almost cryed. I spend hours tryn to get the belt on with the guide plate. Its not possible. Turns out the 3 claw puller, 1 claw on and the main bolt and wow it acted like a hamer and i was able to break off the guide ring. Crisis over. No more surprises. A clean water pump install and re assembly. Even got the timeing stuff perfectly. BTW, i had to inovate the hydrolic tension thing, squished in a clamp and a needle pick in the hole, like a new one. Lol. All the seals needed to be repalced, mmm i hope i dont look back in regret. Drove it home. It fully over heated. Checking the coolent and it just seems to have a steady stream of bubbles, none stop. This is a differnt sign. Bad head or block. I hope you have a video on doing the heads lol. Thats all the follow up i have for now. Thanks again. 😁🥰🤑
@@Id10tRex You should be very proud of yourself for tackling the job! I made another video on the 5vzfe (3rd gen 4Runner) and you'll notice that the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer was also fastened on with gasket maker.
Test for a blown head gasket before tackling that job. If you have a good machinist in town, it's honestly not that bad of a job and your truck will be like new (at least the top end). Thank you for sharing your story.
At 15:08, I see a pulley holder? You mentioned something about putting something in the description about it, but don’t see it.
You are 100% right! I just added it to the description, but here it is: amzn.to/3gArRIc
3vze engine is the image in thumbnail....
No it's not lol. The thumbnail is the 5vzfe
This is one of the best presentation of timing belt replacement at all.. 🦾🇨🇦
Thank you! I’m glad you found the video helpful :-)
You don’t need to remove the ac compressor or bracket. You can get to the rear tensioner bolt with an extension and 12mm swivel. You just need to look for the small access area underneath.
Thank you for that, it definitely would have been helpful when completing this job. Can you share a link to anywhere on the internet where someone shows this access hole to help future DIY’ers?