Definitely agree w other commenters about this being one of the best videos for 997 brakes. Only thing I would emphasize is the need to bleed brakes in specific order: start with passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, and finally the driver front.
Adam, or anyone else, any thoughts on how I can eliminate the need to replace the brake wear sensor (if car is being used on track and frequently getting brake checks. . .)? In older cars, I could just cut the sensor and tie the two leads together. Does that work on the 996/997 model or will lead to a error code or check engine light?
Good question Bud. When I upgrade the brakes on any of the cars, I remove the sensors from the pads. Then I zip tie them in a place out of the way. That way I have the option to put them back if desired down the road.
This was done very well. I love the attention to detail (+) in every step. From the brass hammer to the cross pattern of the lug nuts. Thanks for the quick and precise video. I had to watch it a second time...just because.
Thank you Adam. I just was doing my rear brakes on my 997 Turbo and I had no idea about the rear brake dampers and how stuck they were to the pads. I bent them all to heck. Also, no place said anything about ordering those to replace on a brake job. The pad clip was not the same as other models and I had a pain trying to get it back into the caliper. The turbo is completely different than other models. Your suggestions are going to make it much easier and straightforward for the other rear and then the front. The wooden dowel suggestion will save me an hour trying to get that clip back in the caliper!
Nice video. I see that you skipped a few recommended parts, such as the one time use caliper bolts. or at least parts stores mark them as " one time use". Also the anti rattle clip. Also I don't see any antisieze applied on moving parts that make contact. I dont see enough caliper and piston cleaning from accumulated brake dust. I usually do all these items when doing brakes on my none Porsche cars. I know Porsche might have other guide lines but it would be great if you can reply to my comments. one more thing, I do use thread locker but I heard that Porsche does not recommend it. what do you think ?
Hi, great video, thanks ! I just have a disagreement with the fact you put some blue loctite on the caliper bolts. I had a very bad experience with a mechanics who put loctite on capier bolts : when my turn came to change the pads/discs on my Boxster, one the bolt was almost soldered into the wheel support. It broke despite all my efforts and I had to order a new brake support... So I would really recommend to strictly comply with Porsche recommendation, which is to tighten it with a 85Nm torque. Especially when there are different kinds of metal (steel for the bolts and aluminium for the wheel support).
Hi Adam, for the front brake caliper removal. If you removed the 10mm bolt can the caliper swing out and free? The metal brake line doesn't look like it would swing out. It should but wanted to check with you
Definitely agree w other commenters about this being one of the best videos for 997 brakes.
Only thing I would emphasize is the need to bleed brakes in specific order: start with passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, and finally the driver front.
Thanks Bud! Good input! 😁👍
Adam, or anyone else, any thoughts on how I can eliminate the need to replace the brake wear sensor (if car is being used on track and frequently getting brake checks. . .)? In older cars, I could just cut the sensor and tie the two leads together. Does that work on the 996/997 model or will lead to a error code or check engine light?
Good question Bud. When I upgrade the brakes on any of the cars, I remove the sensors from the pads. Then I zip tie them in a place out of the way. That way I have the option to put them back if desired down the road.
This was done very well. I love the attention to detail (+) in every step. From the brass hammer to the cross pattern of the lug nuts. Thanks for the quick and precise video. I had to watch it a second time...just because.
I am glad you liked the video Bud! Hearing that the video helped you sure makes me happy. Have a great weekend! 😁👍
Great video on how to change the brakes. The close-up's make it much easier to do the job.
Glad to hear the video helped you out Bro. Let me know if you have any other questions. 👍
Well done. Really one of the best videos for brakes changing for 997.1 or even the 997.2.
Thank you so much my friend. I hope the video saves you some time and money. I will have more Porsche videos down the road.
Thank you for this.. My PPI missed that I need brakes. So stupid. Going to try to tackle this one on my own and this helps!
Sorry to hear about the PPI missing that you need brakes. What a bummer. I hope the video helps you.
Very helpful information on the 997 Turbo brakes. Thanks for the video!
Thank you my friend. I am glad the video helped you out. 😁👍
Thank you Adam. I just was doing my rear brakes on my 997 Turbo and I had no idea about the rear brake dampers and how stuck they were to the pads. I bent them all to heck. Also, no place said anything about ordering those to replace on a brake job. The pad clip was not the same as other models and I had a pain trying to get it back into the caliper. The turbo is completely different than other models. Your suggestions are going to make it much easier and straightforward for the other rear and then the front. The wooden dowel suggestion will save me an hour trying to get that clip back in the caliper!
I am glad the video will help you Mike. As things come up on our Porsche’s I will make videos on them. Hopefully, I can continue to help you out. 😁👍
Excellent video!
I am glad you like the video Bud! I hope it helped you out. Have a great weekend! 😁👍
Excellent instructional video.
Thank you My friend. I am glad the video helped you out. 😁👍
Nice video. I see that you skipped a few recommended parts, such as the one time use caliper bolts. or at least parts stores mark them as " one time use". Also the anti rattle clip. Also I don't see any antisieze applied on moving parts that make contact. I dont see enough caliper and piston cleaning from accumulated brake dust. I usually do all these items when doing brakes on my none Porsche cars. I know Porsche might have other guide lines but it would be great if you can reply to my comments. one more thing, I do use thread locker but I heard that Porsche does not recommend it. what do you think ?
Hi, great video, thanks ! I just have a disagreement with the fact you put some blue loctite on the caliper bolts. I had a very bad experience with a mechanics who put loctite on capier bolts : when my turn came to change the pads/discs on my Boxster, one the bolt was almost soldered into the wheel support. It broke despite all my efforts and I had to order a new brake support...
So I would really recommend to strictly comply with Porsche recommendation, which is to tighten it with a 85Nm torque. Especially when there are different kinds of metal (steel for the bolts and aluminium for the wheel support).
Hi Adam, for the front brake caliper removal. If you removed the 10mm bolt can the caliper swing out and free? The metal brake line doesn't look like it would swing out. It should but wanted to check with you
This video could have been 5 minutes long, but thank you.