DIY Boost Pressure test on 997 turbo and BRV replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Discovered my BRV valve was leaking after doing a boost pressure test. The valve rubber diaphragm was torn, easy DIY replacement and DIY tester using PVC pipes and parts from Home Depot.
Many DIY tools available but I followed this guide from forum member TheRock -drive.google.c...
Proceed at your own risk! Do not over pressurized and be careful in case the PVC pipe tester slips off!
Great video most people don’t realize how critical boost leak tests are
Thank you! Love your videos, keep them coming!
great video! easy to understand and follow with.. thank u for sharing
Appreciate you taking the time to make this
Another great video! Thank you. So no real indication from the car?
BTW... consider an aluminum upgrade kit for the short shifter and make sure that you have the OEM Porsche cable alignment tool! Lastly, look into the kit for the front transmission mount (it’s a spacer that fits into the open parts of the mount)
No obvious symptoms, perhaps more boost lag and slight performance loss with the BRV leaking. Thanks for the suggestions, advice and positive feedback.
Nice job! Well explained on the ripped BW diaphragm.
Hi Jim thank so much for doing this video, It must triple the time to do the work with out the capturing the footage then editing and posting.
Just replaced my BRV's however they were fine, I was getting a P0299 under boost code.
I did find the passenger side VTG linkage disconnected, now that all of that is fixed. I cant seem to hold test pressure. Had a small leak behind the oil filter housing loose clamp.
The car is dropping (1) PSI every 10-12 seconds starting at 20 PSI Is this normal? I can still hear a slight hissing near the throttle body, but those clams are good.
Any thoughts?
Now I have a P0300 and P0303 code under heavy acceleration,will need to check and swap coil packs at cylinder 3 perhaps the hardest one to reach.
Glad you have a video on changing plugs too :)
I think it should hold pressure longer than that, I suggest spraying soapy solution to help locate it, perhaps the hose has a tear/hole somewhere.
Looks like cylinder 3 is furthest front driver side, if so, yes, I had a tough time because the intake pipe was in the way. I finally managed to do it by lowering the engine a couple of inches which isn't hard to do in order to gain precious clearance (unless your engine mount is worn then it may not be necessary). I also had to separate the coil pack from the ignition wire to get it out and also during the installation.
Cylinder 6 is tough also because the VTG solenoid is in the way and has to be removed and requires special wobble tools (torx?) to do so.
Also to be sure to have the slim older OEM style because the newer fatter head coil may not clear the pipe.
Thanks Jim just ordered all of the special tools required to tackle the plug and coil pack change.
They were done 18,000 miles ago. Also read the misfire is caused by the fuel pressure regulator, mine has a clamp on both sides of rubber hose so not sure what's going on until the plugs come out.
On the boost Leak not hearing any hissing just the drop in pressure mentioned above.the fuel regulator connection seems solid.
I was going to suggest checking the fuel pressure regulator also but didn't think it causes misfire. I've read it causes a dangerous lean condition. Mine has the clamps also.
Thanks Jim going to get a quote for an Indy to swap them out and diagnose the boost leak as I can't seem to locate the source of the fine leak. A job like this will take me a whole weekend with lots of frustration.
Great video Jim. Definitely going to pressure test after I get a new oil leak sorted out coming from the passenger side turbo. Is that something you’ve had to deal with? Thanks
Hope it's something simple like the o rings on the oil lines to and from the turbos. I did have to replace the o rings on the coolant line (passenger side) to the turbo but not the oil lines. But when I did this, I went ahead and replaced both. I assume you're not talking about having some oil in the intake hose from the intercooler, usually driver side, which is common especially if you overfill the oil.
@@atm4jim It’s been about a year since I changed the oil so I don’t think it’s that. I hope that you’re right and it’s just the O rings. Doesn’t sound like it’s too big a job to replace and if so then I’ll probably do both sides. Did you have any trouble?
@@gabebercz6651 Of course you want to confirm the source of the leak. Not sure what you mean about the oil change and not the cause of the leak.
It's pretty straight forward, and it's fairly accessable after removing bumper cover, intercooler and moving heat shield away. I recall having trouble removing the hard pipes off the turbo but eventually managed. Just be careful not to damage them in the process.
@@atm4jim I just meant that I probably would have seen the oil leak earlier than now if it were related to an overfill since I last changed the oil a year ago.
Unfortunately the link for the diy pressure tool is broken. Does anyone can upload it somewhere please? 🙏
Hey Jim, haven't been able to get a definitive answer on how long the artificial boost leak test should hold pressure. After you made the repair how long did your car hold at 20 PSI? it looks like you were holding pressure around 7-8 psi?
Next step is to get a smoke tester as I can't seem to hold for long dropping (1) psi every 12 seconds. A forum member had me inspect the oil cap gasket it seems okay will order a new one with the charge pipe o rings.
To be honest, I was happy with the results of not finding any major leaks after replacing the BRV. I listened carefully near the throttle body and Y pipe and was pleased not to hear hissing noises. I did notice it took a few minutes for my air compressor to stop filling air probably because of my air hose extension and time it takes to fill the intake piping and intercoolers.
I did wonder about the drop of pressure from my air compressor reading of 20 PSI to the PVC tester reading of around 15 PSI or less on the other end. I did hear slight hissing noise within the engine somewhere which I didn't pin point because I was satisfied with not having large leaks especially on the intake side of things and the car runs good and strong.
I later tested the readings between the 2 gauges by connecting directly, the gauge on the compressor reads slightly higher.
Hey Jim do you know if the rear bumper needs to be removed in order to remove exhaust tips? I have techart tips on a FVD Brombacher exhaust and would like to redo the tips in matte black. Please let me know. Thank you!
You can probably get an open end wrench to loosened the round clamp (no room for socket with the bumper on) that holds the tip to the exhaust pipe and twist the tip off. But it's probably going to be very tight and difficult depending on the amount of corrosion. You will need to spray some WD40/PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench. I even had a hard time just twisting the tip slightly a few degrees trying to align them.
If that doesn't work, it's probably easier to do it with the bumper off which isn't difficult but a bit time consuming removing the various screws and tail lights.
Where did you buy the BRV gaskets?
Search for BorgWarner Compressor Recirculation Valve (CRV) Kit For Use With BorgWarner EFR Turbochargers
Part Number: 156-179424. I got mine from eBay, it's also available from Jegs.com.
where can i buy the part alone ?
Search for Borg Warner 179424 Compressor Recirculation Valve (CRV), I got mine from eBay for about $80
I been watching your videos you seem to be pretty knowledgeable about the 997 turbo. I think your in sacramento I’m in lodi and have a few questions for you about my 997.1 turbo. Can I give you my number to call me?
Hello, sorry, I don't feel comfortable leaving my phone number here. What are your questions?
@@atm4jim oh ya that would be that good and ha it was me that offered to leave my number lol no worries just a few questions about my turbo and a few things to check but I'll do a few things i know and thne see how it goes and then take it to the dealership next time and have them check it.
@@atm4jim actually i wil ask, 2007 turbo no mods 35K miles. I get rough/bouncy engine revs (blips) in neutral. Going to clean the MAFs, replace the purge valve then see what happens. plugs, coils and fuel filter replaced 500 miles ago. Faulty plug or coil? no CEL tho. Was thinking engine mounts but appear fine with no pipes sagging. Passengers side pipe tips vibrates a little more than drivers side on blip. Also thinking maybe a fuel air mixture issue or a slight vaccum leak? I Haven't yet tried reving it to certain RPM like holding it at 3000 4000 only tried neutral medium blips from 1000 to 3000 and its slightley fough and bouncy on the way up. Any other thoughts? Thx
@@tomburns890 Cleaning the MAF's is a great idea, just make sure you use the right cleaner that leaves no residue. My next suggestion was to replace spark plugs but that was already done. As for faulty coil, that's hard to say, I've read the coil packs plastic can crack over time which can cause misfire but you mentioned that was also replaced recently. I don't think engine mount will resolve the bouncy revs but I would eventually want to replace them as they do wear out over time. They are relatively inexpensive and relatively easy DIY. Small vac leak is certainly possible but will be difficult to locate unless you have a smoke machine. Note, I'm not a pro and just a DIY with info gathered from YT and Rennlist/6speed. Thanks.
@@atm4jim So I cleaned the MAFs which really didn't look dirty but it increased the trottle response and smoothed out the neutral engine revs some. Onther issue that somehow resolved was as I used to turn the key right before start the car used to make a thug noise under the passendger seat right befor start? My 669 turbo nver did that but not with the MAF's cleaned that thug noise is gone. strange. the other issue is not being able to fill the gas tank like my 996 as its a known issue but a new purge value is supposed to help with that and might help smooth the engine revs too? I've tried turning upside down the gas filler and helps some. Just heard turning the filler pump to 90* as 9 olclock position. oh and I gave it the suction test by pulling the oil cap off to see if the engine idle changed or sucked in air and no it didn't suck in air so the AOS is fine and or maybe no vaccume leak in the crankcase.