Dude this video is above and beyond all the other ones. Just took my seat out and went to war with my clutch box for 3 hours and got the new one in. Wouldn’t have been possible without your vid man. Thanks again
Thanks for your video, we are doing this replacement right now and this helped a bunch. We needed guidance as the dealership did not give instructions.
Look Before Yall Install The New Assembly, Make Sure The 10mm Nut And Allen Drill Are Tight. When My Clutch Pedal Broke And I Replaced It With The New One, My Clutch Still Didnt Disengage The Proper Way And Felt Spongy At The Top(I had enough clutch to get in gear, but couldn’t disengage smoothly). Then I Figured The 10mm Nut And Allen Screw Were Loose. Once J Tightened Them, My Clutch Became 100%
That pedal is broken. Weak welding l had the same issue. I swapped mine out with a 2012 pedal. New master cylinder and everything is good. Thanks for the vid.
So I literally had the same problem, what I figure is this is a really common problem for these models. The pedal bearing wears out and/or the housing cracks. The offset pedal added extra tension on master slave cylinder where it slowly wore out until it snapped driving one day. I had to order a whole clutch/brake pedal replacement which had been on back order for months after thinking it was just a bad master slave cylinder.
i also have the same problem and its most annoying at track days. Were you able to solve the problem? i didn't want to replace the slave cylinder and clutch if its not necessary. Thanks, Bob
My 13’ gt was having slight issues when I would do 0-60 pulls the clutch pedal would feel stiff and sometimes would just plain outright get stuck. It finally gave out (I’m guessing it’s the slave cylinder or something) because when I step on the clutch pedal it feels super weak and I can’t engage it, I can only switch gears with the car off and even then it’s tough to shift. If I have the car on and in any gear when I try to stop even with the clutch in it just decides to stall, I don’t know what the issue is and I’m worried, please help
Derrick Graves not quite sure what pen your referring to. are you referring to the clip that holds the clutch master line onto the clutch master cylinder? If so I used a pick tool to pull it out far enough for some needle nose pliers to grab ahold of it. Hope this helps!
This really sucks!! I hope I’m having the same issues. When I push the clutch it stays at the floor & won’t come back up unless I pull it up. Hopefully changing out the master clutch cylinder will solve this problem
I got a question if you would know, sometimes when I'm coming to a stop and I throw it in neutral its a bit hard like I have to use a little force. It doesnt happen all the time car has new clutch, flywheel, tob, clutch line. Could it be my clutch master cylinder?
ZachAttackAllison I appreciate the response, I just replaced the throw out bearing not even 5k miles on it. Just bought a clutch master cylinder gonna see if that fixes it. Thanks!
2011 mustang here, master cylinder loop broke off push rod and leaking from it, gunna change it myself. Do you still have the spring off the pedal? i believe my pedal is doing the same exact thing i may replace it with a new one, but if its better without a spring i may just keep it like that. Also what ended up being the total issue? the salve?
I actually just replaced the pedal assembly for a new one. Using the helper spring on the new set up but didn’t mind not having the spring. But I’m still fighting the issue. Lol. 😅 have replaced everything from the pedal to the flywheel. Replacing clutch line this week. Fingers crossed
@@zach_treadwearlife no way man that is rough im doing that master cylinder today. You didnt take all the fluid out of the reservoir did you? you said you capped over it but i cant find a cap, im thinking of trying to throw duct tape over it
Sir Dank if you pump the clutch before you remove the line with the cap on the reservoir you should be good. There should be enough pressure to hold that fluid in there with no cap. But i bough little rubber caps from pep boys. $4
@@zach_treadwearlife so i have the whole pedal assembly off, that red clip at 2:35 which is the "cruise control deactivator switch" broke off the assembly. If i NEED this part, im going to have to get that switch & the whole brake pedal bracket assembly brand new. Do you know if that switch is NEEDED ? i never use cruise control but wasnt sure what the switch exactly does or if it needs to be connected to even start. ALSO i found out the issue why the pedal is swinging to the left, a bolt inside the assembly has split in half. It still works but its definatley whats causing the pedal to go left, you might not have seen it , its very hard to spot.
Tread Wear Life ah man that hassle you shoulda did the gt500 one haha I got one I’m gonna be installing later today and from what I read it improves pedal feel and shift smoothness and plus it’s just better made overall. Also helped some people with the issues you have. I’ll install and let you know if I notice any difference, was like 90 bucks after shipping.
That’s not bad. Yea my issues were a 94k mile old clutch. Lol. Oddly enough brand new clutch and flywheel from McLeod and it slips. Did another brand new McLeod clutch and that slips too. Replacing flywheel this week.
Tread Wear Life yeah I’m in the 80k’s lol clutch is next already have the braided line and shifter and now the gt500 master and sr clutch spring. Pedal is a little stiffer but smoother shifting definitely an improvement over stock.
On the down side. If you’ve been jamming it into gear when you’re locked out you probably borked the synchros. Clutch in a 11-14 mustang v8 is the first order of business if you don’t want to wreck the mt82
@@speedtreee the clutch I used in this video was mcleod. That ended up being the issue. Had a manufacturer defect pressure plate. Replaced that with oem and fixed all my issues.
@@zach_treadwearlife I have a stock clutch in my 14 mustang gt and I’m having this same problem. Only 32 thousand miles on it. I installed the McLeod Braided Clutch line that didn’t help at all. I’m thinking about changing the clutch for McLeod Street Extreme Ceramic Clutch Kit.
@@speedtreee I used 2 McLeod clutch kits and both had manufacturer defect. Going back to oem fixed my problems. I'd recommend a different brand. But that's just off my bad experience with McLeod
@@zach_treadwearlife i just 10 mins ago got the clutch and brake pedal assy in and now trying to adjust the brake light switch then gotta bleed it wish me luck !!!
Dude this video is above and beyond all the other ones. Just took my seat out and went to war with my clutch box for 3 hours and got the new one in. Wouldn’t have been possible without your vid man. Thanks again
Did your clutch engage right after
Thanks for your video, we are doing this replacement right now and this helped a bunch. We needed guidance as the dealership did not give instructions.
I’m sad, cause I’m having the same exact issue bro
Glad your bringing this issue to light cause ford rejected all my issues with under warranty
I'm doing this job right now. Thanks for the video. Its really helpful
glad it was helpful!
Look Before Yall Install The New Assembly, Make Sure The 10mm Nut And Allen Drill Are Tight. When My Clutch Pedal Broke And I Replaced It With The New One, My Clutch Still Didnt Disengage The Proper Way And Felt Spongy At The Top(I had enough clutch to get in gear, but couldn’t disengage smoothly). Then I Figured The 10mm Nut And Allen Screw Were Loose. Once J Tightened Them, My Clutch Became 100%
That pedal is broken. Weak welding l had the same issue. I swapped mine out with a 2012 pedal. New master cylinder and everything is good. Thanks for the vid.
luismns1 pedal wasn’t the issue replaced the pedal and still had the issue. It ended up being the pressure plate.
But your pedal was still broken
where did you find the diagram. I just ordered the clutch master cylinder and hoping it's the issue..
So I literally had the same problem, what I figure is this is a really common problem for these models. The pedal bearing wears out and/or the housing cracks. The offset pedal added extra tension on master slave cylinder where it slowly wore out until it snapped driving one day. I had to order a whole clutch/brake pedal replacement which had been on back order for months after thinking it was just a bad master slave cylinder.
I have a question does it need to be bleed or just keep pumping the clutch
Goated vid tbh
i also have the same problem and its most annoying at track days. Were you able to solve the problem? i didn't want to replace the slave cylinder and clutch if its not necessary. Thanks, Bob
Did you have to bleed the brake system?
on the gt 5.0 2015 it has a ridged support bar across the engine bay we had to remove because the booster wont travel far enough out !!!
Were you able to solve the problem of the pedal moving to the left? Im having the same issue and would like to know if there is a solution.
I am too what did u do to fix it? Same as what he did?
My 13’ gt was having slight issues when I would do 0-60 pulls the clutch pedal would feel stiff and sometimes would just plain outright get stuck. It finally gave out (I’m guessing it’s the slave cylinder or something) because when I step on the clutch pedal it feels super weak and I can’t engage it, I can only switch gears with the car off and even then it’s tough to shift. If I have the car on and in any gear when I try to stop even with the clutch in it just decides to stall, I don’t know what the issue is and I’m worried, please help
SomeRandomAnonymousDude it was the pressure plate for me. New clutch kit fixed it.
Tread Wear Life thank you
My pedal moved side to side as well it’s mostly likely cuz a weld broke. I had to replace my whole assembly
How did you get that pen out from the bellhousing hose
Derrick Graves not quite sure what pen your referring to. are you referring to the clip that holds the clutch master line onto the clutch master cylinder? If so I used a pick tool to pull it out far enough for some needle nose pliers to grab ahold of it. Hope this helps!
How do u bleed the clutch without a bleeder valve
Rx Angelo the system self bleeds. Have to pump the clutch over and over. You can also add a vacuum on the brake reservoir while you pump the pedal.
This really sucks!! I hope I’m having the same issues. When I push the clutch it stays at the floor & won’t come back up unless I pull it up. Hopefully changing out the master clutch cylinder will solve this problem
Did you find out what it was?
Did that solve the problem?
I got a question if you would know, sometimes when I'm coming to a stop and I throw it in neutral its a bit hard like I have to use a little force. It doesnt happen all the time car has new clutch, flywheel, tob, clutch line. Could it be my clutch master cylinder?
It's possible. Sounds as off it's not releasing the clutch all the way. Could also be the throw out bearing though.
ZachAttackAllison I appreciate the response, I just replaced the throw out bearing not even 5k miles on it. Just bought a clutch master cylinder gonna see if that fixes it. Thanks!
@@ArmaniTheGreat did that fix your issue ??
@@clutchnstyle7441 I don’t have the car anymore, I traded it in for a 10 speed. But replacing the master cylinder did fix the problem.
Aren't you missing the spring that sits between the rod on the clutch pedal?
Yes but all that does is make the clutch pedal feel lighter and easier to push in. The issue ended up the pressure plate.
Where did you get the diagram and directions from?
Local ford dealership. It's what the techs use to do repairs. Had a buddy working there print one out for me
considering 2011/12 are so similar to 2013/14. would a 2011 be self bleeding as well?
thank u for the video, huge life saver. first the plastic piece snapped, after replacing, the fucking metal rod snapped in half. 💀
I would think so.
Thank you
2011 mustang here, master cylinder loop broke off push rod and leaking from it, gunna change it myself. Do you still have the spring off the pedal? i believe my pedal is doing the same exact thing i may replace it with a new one, but if its better without a spring i may just keep it like that. Also what ended up being the total issue? the salve?
im 150k miles same clutch by the way
I actually just replaced the pedal assembly for a new one. Using the helper spring on the new set up but didn’t mind not having the spring. But I’m still fighting the issue. Lol. 😅 have replaced everything from the pedal to the flywheel. Replacing clutch line this week. Fingers crossed
@@zach_treadwearlife no way man that is rough im doing that master cylinder today. You didnt take all the fluid out of the reservoir did you? you said you capped over it but i cant find a cap, im thinking of trying to throw duct tape over it
Sir Dank if you pump the clutch before you remove the line with the cap on the reservoir you should be good. There should be enough pressure to hold that fluid in there with no cap. But i bough little rubber caps from pep boys. $4
@@zach_treadwearlife so i have the whole pedal assembly off, that red clip at 2:35 which is the "cruise control deactivator switch" broke off the assembly. If i NEED this part, im going to have to get that switch & the whole brake pedal bracket assembly brand new. Do you know if that switch is NEEDED ? i never use cruise control but wasnt sure what the switch exactly does or if it needs to be connected to even start. ALSO i found out the issue why the pedal is swinging to the left, a bolt inside the assembly has split in half. It still works but its definatley whats causing the pedal to go left, you might not have seen it , its very hard to spot.
Where did you print off these instructions?
I had a buddy working at ford as a tech at the time.
Did you upgrade to the metal gt500 clutch master? Or did you go with the stock one again?
gfmtkrk just the stock one.
Tread Wear Life ah man that hassle you shoulda did the gt500 one haha I got one I’m gonna be installing later today and from what I read it improves pedal feel and shift smoothness and plus it’s just better made overall. Also helped some people with the issues you have. I’ll install and let you know if I notice any difference, was like 90 bucks after shipping.
That’s not bad. Yea my issues were a 94k mile old clutch. Lol. Oddly enough brand new clutch and flywheel from McLeod and it slips. Did another brand new McLeod clutch and that slips too. Replacing flywheel this week.
Tread Wear Life yeah I’m in the 80k’s lol clutch is next already have the braided line and shifter and now the gt500 master and sr clutch spring. Pedal is a little stiffer but smoother shifting definitely an improvement over stock.
On the down side. If you’ve been jamming it into gear when you’re locked out you probably borked the synchros. Clutch in a 11-14 mustang v8 is the first order of business if you don’t want to wreck the mt82
Did you fix your problem? Cause mine seem like it doing the same thing. But my clutch and salve cylinder is new install few months ago..
Brian Gries it was the pressure plate. Replaced clutch assembly and fixed my problem.
@@zach_treadwearlife you wouldn't believe this but I just figured my problem out, bolt to the clutch master cylinder was loose. Lmao
@@zach_treadwearlife after 5 months of ownership.
AllmotoCJ%5.0 so glad it was an easy fix!!
raju23xxx just worn out. Common issues apparently with stock clutch as it gets old
What is that blue pin called?
David Vela it’s called a clevis pin for the brake pedal assembly
Where did you get that print out?
a buddy that works at a local ford dealership printed it out for me
I get mine from iihs.net/ford. It's for the 2011, but all the S197s are pretty similar.
Do you have the part # for the clevis pin
MrDK083 I do not. I’m sorry. I threw away the bag with the part number on it.
3M5Z-2L523-AA)
What clutch are you running in the car?
stock clutch up until now . putting in a mcloud street kit with lightweight steel flywheel
Tread Wear Life I’d advise against a McLeod clutch honestly. I’d recommend a Exedy Mach 500 or if you’re loyal to McLeod - the RST.
My Mccleod Slave cylinder failed. The clutch itself was great, but pricey. I'm running a Spec Stage 3+ in mine now.
Please keep use posted having same problem.. most post say its the clutch assist spring but i just got a steeda and same thing..
Pressure plate failure of oem clutch. Replaced clutch and works perfvect
@@zach_treadwearlife what clutch did you go with ?
@@speedtreee the clutch I used in this video was mcleod. That ended up being the issue. Had a manufacturer defect pressure plate. Replaced that with oem and fixed all my issues.
@@zach_treadwearlife I have a stock clutch in my 14 mustang gt and I’m having this same problem. Only 32 thousand miles on it. I installed the McLeod Braided Clutch line that didn’t help at all. I’m thinking about changing the clutch for McLeod Street Extreme Ceramic Clutch Kit.
@@speedtreee I used 2 McLeod clutch kits and both had manufacturer defect. Going back to oem fixed my problems. I'd recommend a different brand. But that's just off my bad experience with McLeod
the clutch arm is broken at the welds they all do because of the helper spring pressures it constantly .😁 get it welded and re enforced ...
Pressure plate was actually dead. 👍
@@zach_treadwearlife i just 10 mins ago got the clutch and brake pedal assy in and now trying to adjust the brake light switch then gotta bleed it wish me luck !!!
This is my problem on my mustang 2006 gt
The issue ended up being the pressure plate. new clutch fixed the issues
The high rpm lockout is 100% the clutch itself. Well known problem with the well known fix.
What's the fix
The easy fix is a is twin disc organic clutch from Mantic. Or a mcCleod twin disc organic. Thanks for sharing.