Slave Cylinder Bleeding made easy
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 тра 2020
- How to remove air from the slave cylinder on your Mustang with hydralic clutch. No jacking the car up, no vacuum devices, just a quick and easy method. I realize there are a million different ways of doing this, I hope this is just helpful for my fellow Mustang lovin' people, THIS WORKSFOR ME!!. I have done this method no less than a dozen times and literally every time it has worked, I know that it does not remove every single bubble ofair, but I can guarantee it will get you the pedal you want, in a fraction of the time, and a fraction of the work. I really hope this methods helps others. Please subscribe and hit the like button, it will help my ego lol
Very similar to my car! Tony tuned mine as well
Nice job. Thanks for posting that to my channel.
Great advice I have a 03 mustang 3.8 5 speed
Thanks, hope it helped or will help in the future. Did you happen to see my gear vidwo for that same engine you have? Something you might want to take a peek at. Certainly caught me by surprise. Please consider liking, sharing and subscribing. Thanks.
Thx for the info . By the way what is the boost set up you got going ? Oh shit never mind , your describing it right now in the video , as I type ... anyhow nice engine bay , looks good , thx for sharing 👍🏼
Great idea
Thank you, I hope it helps a lot of folks.
Brother and I are about to give this a shot today. Just got a McLeod clutch for his car. He runs a p1sc procharger.
If you follow the directions I outlined in the video, you will have a good pedal in no time. Good luck and make sure to 👍🏻 and subscribe, and share, it appears to be helping a lot of people. Thanks for contacting and viewing. Good luck. Please let me know how it works, and if you have questions, contact me I will be happy to help.
Nice video. I just installed a new clutch and bled it. And it's a bit hard to get into 1st,2nd and when going into reverse I have to go into a gear then reverse. Would this process me get in gear as well?
Thank you. I apologize for the late reply, but I am not so sure it is related. I believe that would be related to more internal, the gears are not getting out of each other's way and requiring you to push them with "other gear" possibly on the same shaft as reverse. So, if the pedal is firm like it should be, then I would think it is being depressed far enough for disengagement from the clutch, but the gear internally is getting in the way requiring you to use that sequence to align them prior to going into reverse.
Could be that can def happen w a bad master slave cylinder or clutch
Trying to understand how this works , once you pump the clutch pedal , won't that cause the brake fluid to blast out of that hose ?
Nope, not at all, the key is to press the pedal slowly, I imaging if you slammed it to the floor if may splash the space station lol. The idea is to just take your time, nice and easy. Just follow exactly how I described it and you will have a really nice pedal very quick. I have even shared it with dealerships of all people and they are really liking it. If you are doing it to a car now or soon, please let me know how well it works, and please subscribe if you have not already. Thanks for viewing the video.
This is an awesome video on how to bleed the master cylinder. Is this also bleeding the Slave Cylinder? That is the major issue with these installs.
The master cylinder and the slave are connected, they use the same reservoir. The slave is bled at the same time with this method, the clutch pedal will be really good when done. I have shown many people, it really surprises people after they use this method. Thanks for watching.
Oh, please hit the like/subscribe button. Thanks
Can you post a link to what syringe you used or something similar that would work?
Hey, thanks for viewing my video, I really hope it was helpful. Sure, the good thing abought this method id that nothing expensive is needed at all. Something as simple as a turkey baster from the dollar store will work. The 3 most important things about what to use is that the tip can fit inside the hose on the reservoir, it can hold 60cc, and it is clear so you can see the level of the fluid and any bubbles coming up as you cycle the clutch pedal. Here is a link for some of the syringes on Amazon, take note of the type of tip it has, if you can find something similar, and it meets the other criteria, use it if it is free and available to you faster. I just happened to have one of these around and used it. Please like the video and slap the subscribe button if this was helpful. I truthfully believe this will save people tons of time and eliminate the frustration associated with bleeding the slave cylinder.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07NF6ZGMX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_QJHTZTKPJACSP12KCGNP
Should this be done with the car running?
No. While it shares the same reservoir as the brakes, that is just for the fluid,. The systems otherwise it totally independent of each other. This is done with engine off.
why are you disconnecting the res just to hook up a home made temporary res? im struggling to see the point of this, is it just so u can see the bubbles? i think id jus get a mate to push the pedal for me while i watch tbh.
Well what happens with this factory setup is that the way it is positioned, it is not conducive to letting air out. It is not necessarily about seeing the bubbles, it is however all about the position of the fluid to the hose. With the nipple from the reservoir being sideways, it for some reason does not allow the air to get out, trust me I have tried, many many times, it just does not work. I have done no less than twenty of these, and it works EVERYTIME without exception, and my score for the other way, 1, maybe 2 out of twenty. Like I said in the video, there are many ways to do this, if you have time to kill and an incline, or a jack, then give it as shot, it may work, but my history with it did not. I in fact, have shown this technique to several local shops here in town and they are like "are you frigging kidding me, my guys have struggles with this crap for hours and you walk in and do it in 10 minutes!!" lol. I took one car off a jack that had been there for 12 hours waiting for the "air to bleed" and did that in less than 10 minutes. He mounted and balanced my new tires that I brought up to him for free in exchange. Again, yes it is just exchanging one reservoir for another temporarily, BUT IT WORKS and it is guaranteed to get you a great pedal. Not the only way, but it works for everyone I have shown. Thanks for watching and commenting. I would appreciate a like and subscribe if i have answered your question to your liking. I am going to be doing some more videos here soon, one on a 3.8 litre Ford V6, and then again on the same Mustang that was in this video, hope you take a few minutes and view it. Take care.
Came across your video! I think I've got some air in my slave cylinder or my clutch master cylinder is failing. My clutch pedal is a bit soft. Not stiff like it used to be, but it's also not all the way to the floor. When I start the car I can't put it into any gear. I press the clutch all the way down and it's really hard and won't go in. So I'm going to replace clutch master cylinder by the pedals and do a proper bleeding using this method you're talking about. So you suck brake fluid half way with the syringe and plug it into the hose? Do you just let put the syringe in the hose? Do you push the syringe in or pull while it's in the hose or anything?
I took an empty syringe (60ml/cc is best, I'll put a link at the end, you can get them at medical place pretty cheap) in the hose that I take off the reservoir, make sure to plug the nipple off that it comes off of, and also be careful the nipple can be somewhat brittle due to the environment is it in with heat. After I put the syringe in the hose, find a way to support it straight up where you can pour the brake fluid into the syringe, about half way is generally perfect. Now you want to go in and SLOWLY pump the pedal, keeping an eye on the syringe to see how much air/bubbles are bubbling up in the syringe. IF there is air in the slave cylinder, this will get it. It may take a bit of pumping the pedal, but it should not take more than say 30 pumps. Make sure that you keep the syringe about halfway full, if there is air in, it will replace that and the fluid level will decrease. Make sure you keep the fluid off the paint, it will take it off. Once the pumping no longer shows air bubbles, use a small pair of needle nose Vise grips (or what ever you have that will lock) on the hose BEFORE pulling that syringe out of the hose. When you remove the syringe, you may see a tiny part of the hose where there isn't any fluid, just fill the hose with a few drops from the syringe, just to remove that tiny bit of air. Then, remove whatever you have plugging the nipple off (hopefully a rubber cap)and quickly slip that hose back onto the nipple. Make sure the reservoir is half full, again to prevent air from that angle. I am not sure exactly what is going on with your car at this point, but if there is air, this will fix it. What type of car is this so that I can help you further diagnose this issue. Year/Make/Model/Engine please. Hope what I have outlined fixes it for you, saves a lot of money rather than replacing parts. Thanks for contacting me and viewing my video. I hope I have earned a sub and like. Thanks again.
www.amazon.com/Industrial-Scientific-Measuring-Refilling-Filtration/dp/B08DCYRHH1/ref=asc_df_B08DCYRHH1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459453782550&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7791661904345221576&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011568&hvtargid=pla-983181716616&th=1
@@michaelkennedy2528 subbed and liked!! Oh ok so you take out the plunger part of the syringe and put it into the hose and then fill it with fluid. Similar to what I did when I bled the coolant system. I saw a bunch of other people jacking their cars up or attaching a vacuum pump to the reservoir cap to bled the clutch. I actually have a 2008 Mustang Gt 4.6L 5speed.
@@johnnycardenas1518 thank you so much. Yes, take out the plunger on the syringe, making it basically a funnel. The reason I use the syringe is that it allows you to see the amount of air bubbles, if any and its a direct fill for the slave. I have the 2007 Mustang GT/CS 4.6 3 valve. I had switched the stock one over to the Ford Racing Aluminator, all forged internals and then put the Vortech supercharger back on it. Dual GT racing fuel pumps and 60 pound injectors. Dropped a valve and now I am going to do a Coyote swap real soon on it.
@@michaelkennedy2528 gotcha makes sense now! Yeah I saw the dyno sheet in the video and was impressed! Were you running the stock trans tr3650 with the aluminator and vortech? I still have 4.6L stock internals but rebuilt top end with stage 2 cams, CAI, long tube headers, x pipe, Roush axle backs
@@johnnycardenas1518 Yes, 3650 trans. I had the Comp 127650 cams, phazer limiters and the supporting valve springs. i will be selling alot of that stuff here soon I think to offset the Coyote swap. The cams are super aggressive, don't drink coffee while idling lol. I had the Detroit rockers in it before (blower grind) and really like them,
Did you empty out the reservoir from the brake fluid or you just plug it up?
Just plugged it up, , when I took he hose off, I put a small cap over the nipple. You have to be very careful when doing so because the nipple can be very brittle due to being in all that heat under the hood. If you do not plug it off, all the fluid in the reservoir will drip/pour out. Also, make sure you keep the fluid off the paint, it will damage it for sure. Thanks for watching, hope it helped.
Would have liked to see you actually DO the bleeding (instead of just explaining it).
I will be putting another engine/trans in it soon and and will do a verty detailed video on the entire process. It will still suprise you just how quick and easy it truly is to do it. Thanks for watching in the meantime.
Will this method work with a slave cylinder that wasn't bench bled, I installed a new clutch and slave cylinder at the same time but didn't bench bleed. Do you think this will still work?
Yes, it will just take alittle more fluid and leg work but should work perfectly fine. If you find this helpful, please like abd subscribe so UA-cam sends it out to more people can be helped. Let me know how it wotks out for you. The biggest thing, go VERY slow, and watch the fluid level to make sure it doesn't suck in more air. Funny thing is I am getting my order of 10, 60cc syringes today because I have given the ones I had away doing this for others. These are the ones I got.
60ml Catheter Tip Syringe with Covers- 10 Syringes by Care Touch- Individually Sealed - Sterile a.co/d/gc0TDji
You can use pretty much and thing that will fit in the hose, but these work perfect.
Let me know how you do please, and if you need help, reach out to me. Take care.
@@michaelkennedy2528 thank you for the reply.
@@CLPATTERSON your very welcome
But doesn’t a pocket of air get stuck in the open end of the tube when you reattach it?
Thank you for viewing and commenting. The tube remains full of the fluid, there is the ever so slight chance of a tiny bubble, but having the hose clamped off prevents the fluid from going down and allowing room for an air bubble of any significance. Kind of like sucking fluid up in a drinking straw and then clamping it off really well with your fingers, the fluid can actually create a slight dome shape due to surface tension. This method works extremely well, I have now show 15 or 20 people and they are "Holy crap, I have been trying all day to get a pedal, and you do it in 5 minutes!!". Have you tried it yet?, I know you will be very happy with the results. If you have any questions, get back with me, I am more than happy to assist. Please like ans subscribe so other folks can benefit from this method, share it also to any car groups you belong to online. Thanks again. Peace.
Never saw a brake reservoir to clutch master hose on my old Ford.
Yeah, it goes down to the slave cylinder for the clutch.
See,s to me, a person could install a T right there next to the reservoir with a threaded top and cap .
Not quite sure I am understanding. Please elaborate. I am always looking for better ways to do things, and what you are suggesting may well be that better method.
Man I’m glad you’re loving your car,but please stick to the mission at hand! Not interested in your dyno #’s
Yes sir!!