How to get bleed air out of a clutch master cylinder
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- Опубліковано 4 кві 2019
- This was a 2008 Mazda 3. This is what you can try to do if you have bled the clutch master, lines, and slave, and the pedal is still spongy, or low, and you can usually pump the pedal up to get it to work because there is still air trapped in the system. This how to video does work on other vehicles.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Авто та транспорт
This whole video is like a fever dream.
The camera movements really sell it.
After trying to bleed the slave for 30 min. I found this video and after 4 min of work. Boom! It was done. You sir are a god among men! Thank you!
That would be like a demigod, or something.
@@RustBeltAuto hahah
Bleeding a clutch by blocking the slave cylinder
Thank you. This procedure actually work for me but I used a modified version. I got a little bit of air out of the master cylinder with your version. But I still had a very soft pedal. So with the pressure still left in the slave cylinder, vice grips still clamped on the hose, I opened the bleeder at the slave cylinder and quite a bit of air came out. After a few times of doing that the clutch pedal was back to normal.
Worked great on my 86 Chevy K30. Thank you real time saver, I had been bleeding for hours with no results, ten minutes after I watched I was driving the beast.
Thank you for the video. Definitely saved me I was going to take my car to the shop tomorrow. I also figured out away to remove a rusted stuck cv axle without any air tools. All you need is a small tourch to heat the bolt, and and I used my own car jack and breaker bar.i put the handle of the breaker bar as close as I could to the jack. Pumped it three times and the bolt broke lose. 2 days of staring at it and it finally hit me. I jack have Ron lifting power. Peace of cake
Wish I had seen this last night. I spent 4 hours trying to bleed my clutch. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
fax. use a whole bottle of dot 3 on my accord trying to bleed
Im about to fix a customers car i usually work on bmws never have a problem bleeding! Great video! Its good to do Some research before starting any job even if you are a licensed mechanic you can’t possibly be an expert on every vehicle!
@@Icepressa that's true and facking stack bleeding this Toyota Hiace 2002 for 3 day still no facking pressure I even replace clutch master and clutch slave do you have idea why there's no pressure and no leaking??
@@nightriders9833 I ended up getting a pressure bleeder and forcing it into the reservoir and opening up the bleeding screw and hand bleeding It while pressure is applied threw the pump bleeder!!
@@Icepressa thanks man that's helpful☺
You sir are a god send, spent two hours trying to bleed my mazda 3 and wouldn't have thought of this! Thank you!
After exhausting every other method, I remembered watching this the other day. And blow me down if it didn't work for me too.
Cheers mate!
You giving all the tricks away lol it’s brilliant when people have a go and no joy then I turn up do the same angle the car clamp then pressure so bubble up out the reservoir job done then I hear rocky song in my head as I walk away lol
This was great! ‘Dead heading’ worked on my ‘07 Ford Focus. I was struggling to get all other types of traditional clutch master cylinder bleeding to work. Appreciate the help...you’re a good man!!
What problem you had with your Focus??
Hope it works on my 02 svt
Good to learn a new method. Thank you!
Blocking From Master To Slave. This guy is a genius.
I believe so. I may make a try on my honda civic dx 97 with already 280,000 miles on it.
@@balloney2175 I have a honda Accord I'm going to try it on. Hey, do you know how the Honda Civic got its name? Waaay back, Honda released a little hatchback car with no name, but put the letters "CVCC" on the back. It stands for "Controlled Vortex Combustion Chamber." It was Honda's version of a high performance head to rival the Hemispherical "swirled" head which gives Dodge cars so much power. Since the car had no name, everyone started calling it the "Civic." And the name stuck. Great car. You're lucky to have one! (Although my favorite Honda car was a Honda Prelude SiR I bought in 2002... *ANYTHING* Honda is great.)
Reverse bleeding up to the master cylinder reservoir instead of down to the slave cylinder bleeder valve so basically the vise grip is acting as the bleeder valve this is genius gonna try it tomorrow thanks.
You just dead head the hydraulic system, in order to push air up, and then put pressure against the slave cylinder, while pulling up the pedal, so the fluid, and air has no place to go but up, when you release the vise grip. Nobody in an education system will teach you this, but when you are in a pinch, and time is against you in reality, as a tech, it is the thing to do, and it works.
Just what I needed. Will try it and hopefully my car will be fixed
Hey man, I tried this on my Tacoma and it worked great! Thanks!
Great technique, I did this 3 times on my Ford/Mazda junk, sucked in about about 100ml of fluid. pedal is firm & higher bite point. Thanks RBA. Dead head FTW
Was it a pick-up? I have a 98 mazda b2500 and I can't find any videos that show how to bleed that vehicle
@@fletcherhawkins1682 no, a Mazda2
Thank you, that helped
FYI, it also works for 2001 Toyota Celica,
The elastic hose is behind the air filter and is moderately easy to reach.
Hope this helps someone! 😊
GrT VIDEO having exact same probs,got some Kurds to fix ford transit connect van - drove it around for half hour clutch pedal was slow to come back to the top-thnkx for helep
99 Ford Ranger air gets stuck at piston. I'm going to try your way. Put on ramps, needle nose vise on line from master to slave, and pump petal then push down all the way. A year ago I pulled master out to wheelwell so I could bleed it. Worked but alot of trouble. Maybe slave is leaking. I like your videos so when I saw RustBelt Auto I knew it would be good.
love your vids they teach me a lot of shit that i might need 2 do one day
Yo this actually worked I'm so stoked
thx for the vid
Welcome!
Thank you so much! Worked on my bmw E90!
"if you have no flexible hose, you're pretty much screwed"
lol okay good to know, guess I'll just continue pumping the way I have been
Thanks for the video! It helped me troubleshoot my girlfriend's car.
2007 Dodge Caliber with a "squishy" clutch pedal and no engagement into first gear.
Glad it could help.
Thank you so much I needed help with my car.
Thanks for the video sir!
this worked! thank you!
It worked on my Volvo 940, thank you!
😁
@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally.
But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all.
So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.
@@tnamen1307 late reply sorry, I would have thought changing the master cylinder if u look at you master cylinder from the clutch pedal side you can see the seal washers is fault by grease come out or flued,
LOL "If you have no flexible hose, you're pretty much screwed."
Great video and method! Thanks! I'm gonna try it on my '05 350Z. Praying for a flexible hose to be there.
Mega Ded i have a 06 g35 and I was wondering if it worked before I tried it?
my flexible line happened to be connected to the slave cylinder but still between it and the master so ill have to see if it works
Thank you for helping the common man…. ( bows in respect)
I got friends in low places.
This is the exact video I needed to see…
I just put a splitter into reservoir, one connected to line, the other with bleeder. I learned it works on either end. I put mine near the reservoir, then just pump and open to bleed it, like a brake line, you can even use the hose, and fluid in container to bleed yourself.
I got my car back from the mechanic because I had him change the manual transmission. I drove 2 hours or so and came home from an hour trip and at the busy stoplight my stick shift didn't want to budge. I pushed the car to a safe spot I turned the car off put it in 1st gear then drove home in 1st gear. Next morning I added more clutch fluid and it works great again. I'm guessing the mechanic didn't bleed the air right but I slept the night thinking my used $700 dollar transmission was bad. But it was just the clutch having air or maybe the mechanic didn't put enough fluid. He's a good mechanic though.
Man you sound like a sophisticated peter griffin
Does anyone know how many times I have to press my clutch pedal for it to return? My slave is slowly in sync woth with my clutch pedal. Been at this for about an hour. Replaced slave and master yesterday..
Hopefully this works on my 2014 tC. Just changed out the transmission. Before the transmission swap I couldn’t get into any gear without a grinding sound like my clutch wasn’t engaging and now after the swap it’s acting the same after bleeding the hell out of the line for like 2 hours…thanks for the video!
You might need a master and slave cylinder.
After battling to bleed the clutch, it was soft, and couldn't get the bubbles out. Thank yo very much, did it once, and like brand new. South Africa
Nice!
I have a 2009 VW Jetta TDI and it doesn't have any rubber hoses, is there any other option foe me?
the hose you are clamping, is that going from the reservoir to the master cylinder, or to the slave cylinder? thanks.
from master to slave
@@RustBeltAuto great,thanks
@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally.
But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all.
So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.
@@tnamen1307 air in master or bad master. Is it new? Is the fluid black? Dead head master. You could bench bleed it. Fill master. Plug line hole. Push piston in a bunch. Air should come out the top. If not suspect bad master.
Cant tell which hose you put vise grips on... is the master to reservoir? Ty
It's the pressure hose going to the slave cylinder. Lightly clamped. That is how you dead head a hydraulic system.
It was funny when he just said "Ok bye" lol but thanks for the video lol
Will this method also work on clutch with fluid reservoir not connected to brake? I mean cluth line has its own reserve tank, like the ones on honda civic eg 1992?
Yes. I have done this method to many honda's.
How many times should I bleed it with the vice grips to be successful
great info, thank you. But why do you push fluid pass the vise-grip (4:09)? is this an attempt to push the air in the master cylinder into the slave cylinder?
Technically you could put it on after there is pressure in the system.
Changed as some brake cleaner seems to have a good way soaked it up undid the hose for air traps and she is oldcar mite need this and do other side in case of leaks but does it have to go to master cylinder resivoir it mite be in a hard slot to find another is lifting the car when this happens luckyiv keept spare ring ,
Thanks for that will try it . Just had no clue other than trying to bleeding from the slave nipple
Thank you.
Fact: "dead head the system" worked on my mazda 6i 5 mins ago.
⁶ù
I have a question on my 2005 Mazda 3 hatch back manual my clutch goes up but it’s feels like there’s no pressure when I press down it just goes straight to the floor. But it goes back up no problem. Bad clutch? Or just air in it? Please let me know
Well, if you pinch off the line, and its rock hard, it will be something farther down the line. There's all kinds if fun stuff down there it could be.
Working on a 04 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart after replacing master and a few brake lines we sucessful got good break pedal snd the clutch pedal seems to have similar pressure as it did before but for some reason the clutch will notdisengage making it impossible to shift from park.
We have rules out internal clutch damage because when we push the car we are able to shift once its rolling.
Been bleeding this clutch for several days now. Any suggestions
( Has a fairly new Slave and clutch)
Slave is moving but idk if it's moving enough.
Pedal was adjusted months ago when the Clutch, master and lines were failing to accommodate ?
Thers is no park on a manual transmission. You should probably make sure the pressure plate, or throw out bearing, fork is not damaged. If you can dead head the master, it should be rock hard, without pumping up the pedal. You can also pump on the pedal, and see if the cluch works, that would indicate a hydraulic issue. That's all I got.
Hi, I need your help please. My car won't go into gear when it is started. It goes into gear when it is not started.
I can start it with gear 1,2,3,4,5 & reverse without no issues... once it is started, I can move the car, but It won't let me change it for a different gear. I changed the slave cylinder for a new one, my master cylinder is not leaking either.. I do not know what else to do, please help me.
Does creep while running in gear, shift if you pump the petal a few tines, is the pedal spongy, does it disengage all the way, does it have excessive free play. Sounds like the clutch is not disengaged all the way. Indicative to air in the system, internally leaking master, or adjustment issue.
SOLVED!!! I have an 05 Scion tC, the first time i did the Clutch Master Cylinder was a nightmare to get the air out.
Make sure you bench bleed the master cylinder b4 doing this.
The second time i had a brilliant idea, BTW (keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesnt run empty or you'll suck air into the system.)
DIsconnected the bottom end of the hard line that's connected to the flex hose that runs into the slave cylinder, i attached some clear tubing to the end of the hard line and siphoned the air out with my mouth, then i pinched the hose thats connected between the master cylinder and fluid reservoir with vice grips and removed the tubing, then reattached the hard line to the flex line and removed the vice grips. Then i attached the tubing to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and i opened the valve and siphoned the rest of the air out, then i pinched the flex hose that runs between slave cylinder and the bottom of the hard line with vice grips, then i removed the tubing and closed the bleeder valve and removed the vice grips.
After all that i never had to use the pedal to bleed the rest of the air out, cause i got so much air out by siphoning it. MAGIC😎
Don't siphon brake fluid with your mouth, it causes brain death, or something if you accidentally swallow it.
@@RustBeltAuto I was using an 8ft tubing, so it never got anywhere near my mouth. And yeah brake fluid is about the worst fluid there is.
@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally.
But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all.
So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.
@@tnamen1307 That is correct, it's leaking internally, in fact thats how most of them fail, cold weather makes it even worse, something's to do with Viscosity. If you know how to "double-clutch" you can still drive it though if you need to move it.
Edit: Double-Clutch minus the clutch part lol, if you can float gears aka rev-matching, then you dont need the clutch pedal at all. You also would have to disable the dummy switch under the clutch pedal that requires you to start the car with the clutch pedal engaged. Just incase you need to move it.
@@aarontapatio2257 but, I can't even changed gears even with or without clutch depressed in engine running. This is very surprising. Why gears not engaged while engine running with or without clutch depressed?? Please made me clear about this.
Hi.. I have an opel astra J 2012.. O was driving and the concentric slave died of that's the correct term.. It was replaced and sits in the gearbox.. After that my gears wouldn't change smoothly and I would pump the clutch a few times and we able to shift.. I drove about 350km and parked when I arrived home.. In the morning I started the car and the gears wouldn't shitt.. When the engine is off they do shift. What do I need to do without taking it to anyone simply becoz I cant even afford to tok to a mechanic??
I turn the engine off and put it in gear and start again so I can move it around the yard... If I drive it around the block I have to pump the clutch a few times to find 3rd gear.. Do I have to have my master replaced? They struggled to bleed the crap out of the car.. They did fine with the breaks but struggled with the clutch
Its probably a master cylinder issue. If there is a flexible hose you can lightly pinch off, and the pedal is not rock hard when lightly pushed, most likely, that will be your issue.
Hey, so I'm having an issue with my clutch. When the car is cold, the clutch works, everything works, but when the car warms up, my clutch pedal doesn't work. It acts like it should, but doesn't disengage the actual clutch so I can't put the car in gear. Could this be my issue? I already have a new clutch kit ready to go in, but I want to try the easiest thing first.
You usually only need a clutch when it is slipping. If you can pump on the pedal, and make it work, you probably have a failing master. If your fluid is black and nasty, probably best to replace master and slave anyways. Just my best guess.
I e got the same with a 2006 vw golf gti (cub USA) no mechanic but tried alone all week and once with my mrs, really struggling and self employed so no work for a week and this week, took ages to get fluid through but still not clutch, nothing failed just a retainer clip on the bleed valve
Hi, im a little confused about where I am putting the pliers? Am I pinching the hose that comes from the resivour to the master cylinder or the hose coming from the master cylinder towards the slave cylinder? Thanks
In between master and slave.
Thank you :)
Nice tip. Do you have any idea why my clutch won’t gravity bleed? I used to be able to in the past but nothing comes out when I open the bleeder at the slave cylinder
Probably air in the system.
@@RustBeltAuto I’ll try your method again on the MC. When you crimp the flexible line, how tight should it be crimped? Pushing the pedal down should have a lot of resistance or some?
@@theBoogymang just give it a light crimp. You should be able to feel the line close up all the way. If there is no air left, and it all gets pushed out the top, the pedal should feel rock hard when pushed lightly. If it remains rock hard, you should be able to bleed the rest of the system out normally.
@@RustBeltAuto Oh ok so bleed the rest of the system after un-crimping the line if the pedal feels firm? I wasn’t doing that
@@theBoogymang sometimes you dont need to.
Some good info. The only clutch I ever need to bleed was on my Toyota pickup and it was pretty easy for the most part. Thanks for the video, OKAY BYE!
Thanks. Worked fine on my insignia. Saved my day.
🤗
My hose was leaking. Had to replace that. Came across this. Tried it. Clutch feels good after 6 years..
Have you ever dealt with this on a 2nd generation Chevy Cruze? I really don’t wanna have to drop the trans which is where the slave is lol but I keep just having random clutch issues where the pedal sticks to the floor
If it is not loosing fluid, it is probably the master, and not the slave.
thank you!
Surely!
Where is that flexible pipe located? I have one but I’m not sure if that’s the right one
Some are nylon. You need to look around for one. Good luck.
So I assume you do this once you have bled and replaced the fluid correct?
If you still have problems after bleeding, yes. Sometimes it works.
I'm just confused about which line is being clamped. Is it the line between the master and slave cylinders, or the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder? I'm trying to bleed the air out on my 91 Sonoma, and I'm hoping this method works.
Bleed out as much as you can, and block the line inbetween the master, and slave. Good luck.
My slave cylinder isn't reacting to my clutch pedal either. There is oil and random air coming out of bleeder valve. When I put cap back on and pumpedy slave manually I heard a suction sound. But still no resistance. I think my pedal returned very slightly from the floor, but not much
So my fluid was black as hell and started to bleed it but im pretty sure air got into the system (my helpers fault, classic case of the guy must know more than the girl does) so now I'm not getting any pressure and no fluid is moving when bleeding do I keep redoing cycles and eventually the air will come out? Then dead head if after that the pedal isn't getting pressure correctly? Or dead head now?
A lot of times, black fluid is a good indication of failed components. When fluid has never been bled, and you pump out all that black junk, the black junk is the only thing in the system that is keeping it working, because the black junk is supposed to be your seals, and parts, that have basically been solidified.
I never done this before but mine was really soft after master and slave cylinder replacement; bleed it through the slave nipple for a good min, let it drip few drops, tightened nipple, went to pedal; no more spongy feel, now it feels like it suppose to, before the rod at the slave was not moving now I got it to move the fork.
Brilliant ,would this work on my ka? do i do it after bleeding or instead of ?
Bleed it first. If you have issues try this. It has worked on everything I have tried it on, and have been doing this for a very long time.
@@RustBeltAuto fabulous will do thank you
If my master cylinder is inside the cabin and slave is under the hood up top of the car, I pinch the line going from master to slave, I pushed pedal to floor it stayed, pulled back up. Unclamp the line from master to slave and I hear like a suction kinda air sound, did this 3 separate times plus bled slave. Didn’t see bubbles when I did the master just sound, how can I tell if all the air is out of master?
It just needs to work.
Hi there.
Ive just replaced the mastercylinder and now having serious problems with the bleeding
First i tried the common technique pedal to the floor, open/close bleeding nut again and again and agian, for like 2-3 hours without result.
Then i went to get a preassure bleeding device where i ran aprx 2 liters of DOT4 fluid with 2psi preassure, still no succes!
Ive got resistance and the pedal rises back by itself, so i guess that there are no problems with the slave being faulty.....im desperate for advices atm.
Can you see the slave cylinder moving when you hit the pedal?
I have a 2003 kia spectra and every 2 months ish the pedal will stick to the floor and my dad and I have to bleed it. He wants me to take it to a shop tomorrow and the mechanic wants to replace the whole clutch. I'm not gonna pretend I know alot about cars, but all the videos I've seen like this make it seem like I wouldn't have to replace the whole clutch. If I keep having to bleed the clutch every 2 months, what do you think the issue is and do you think it is worth it to spend $900 replacing the clutch?
Is it leaking fluid? Is the slave cylinder part of the throw out bearing inside the bellhousing? Can you pinch off the flexible hose, and get a hard pedal? I don't really have a simple answer, because I'm not looking at the vehicle. It does sound to me like a hydraulic issue, and not a mechanical one.
I have a 2003 mini cooper s and changed the slave cylinder and bench bled before then bled the system the normal way and my pedal is still on the floor no pressure to go back up?
Pull it up by hand.
My clutch pedal was stuck we bled air out clutch worked but next day as soon the clutch pushed in it doesn’t return fast enough do you think it’s a spring or something loose in the clutch pedal???
Can you pump it to get it to work better?
Hi mate I’ve replaced a clutch on an Astra sri 08 and after two months the gear wouldn’t go into place unless forcefully pushed and it made a loud screeching noise, I tried again 6 months later and now it’s going in to gear but sometimes with a strain and I have to be delicate with the reverse, makes a large clinking sound. Any help on this would be great been proper stressing about this for a while can’t pay another £800
If it goes into gears easily with the engine off, the clutch is probably not engaging all the way. Forcefully engaging the clutch is a bad idea.
hi
thank you for this very good video
today my car got same problem i though its clutch and then we found out its master slender
Hope it helps.
@@RustBeltAuto I got the same issue. Pedal stuck to floor and I have to pull up normally.
But, there is no external leakages anywhere and fluid level doesn't drop at all.
So, is internal leakage in the seals within the master cylinder the issue? If so, how to confirm? Thanks.
Thanks for the video man currently fixing girlfriends 2006 Saturn Vue it started with trouble shifting then when it got cold the shifter cable bushing broke at gear shift after replacing that car would shift fine while engine wasn’t running but clutch would not engage clutch master cylinder was bone dry about to try this method and hope I have a fix OKAY BYE
Q. I have a 1995 s10 chevy.4cyner. 5speed. Cluth is going bad. I removed air from it. That helped alittle. The master cylinder is good! Ok.....does this truck have a slave master cylinder?? If so I can't find it. Could it be the release bearing which is in the tranmission. And for the first time today I noticed it leaking where the transmission bolts up to the engine
Cannot remember. Looked the part up on Ebay, and it looks like a normal slave cylinder. Follow the line. Those ones in the throw out bearing are usually in Ford's and Mazda's.
Are the vice grips between the fluid reservoir and master cylinder or between master and slave cylinder ??
Thanks in advance, great video. 👍
Master, slave.
thanks
thanks mate
😁
What if you try to dead head the system and still have no clutch pressure
3 possibilities
1. you pinch the wrong hose, (you should pinch the hose between master and slave)
2. no fluid in the reservoir
3. the master cylinder is junk, or not connect to the clutch peddle
Mine just keeps getting air might be the brake master cylinder i have to fill it up almost everyday but i see no leak its driving me crazy. Clutch master cylinder and slay cylinder are good.
Look at your floor behind the master cylinder. It might be leaking there. If your clutch works properly, and you need to keep adding fluid, it must be going somewhere. Also if your resiviour is for both clutch, and brakes, you might need to find a leak in your brake system. Best ideas I can give you.
My lines are metal in my chevy truck, so clamping the lines isnt an option. Any other suggestions. I cant get any pressure on my pedal
Maybe you just don't see it. If the hose is not on there, the movement, and vibrations of the engine will eventually snap that line. It is supposed to be fastened to the body, and the engine/trans with a hose inbetween.
Here can you see about how you can bleed the clutch
ua-cam.com/video/EGCDQMYmSlY/v-deo.htmlsi=TEj-WLpoNRbmX-Gj
working on a 85 305 fire bird starts with out the clutch pushed but when i push the clutch down it wont go into gear
The clutch is probably not disengaged. Put it in 1st , start it, and see if it creeps.
It wont go in any gear I push the clutch all the way to the floor too
It also starts without the clutch I have it hook right to the starter so I'm jumping the starter
Joe Janis did you ever figure it out, I’m having the exact same issue
@@nene6569 did you ever figute it out I'm having that same issue
Hola saludos , hello people, im having a little trouble too with my clutch sistem on my foodtruck, its a ford E350 from 1985 its a inline 6 with a manual trans. Replaced with a brand new master cylinder, new line and new slave clutch. And ive been trying to bleed it but just cant get it to work. I get the air out of the slave until it spits out the fluid but the clutch pedal is still very soft whe i push it. And the slave does not move the clutch. What can i do?
If you can pinch off the line, the pedal should getvrock hard if you pump it up. If not, you have air in the master, the line before the place where you pinched it off, or your master is no good. Doing this should give you a good indication on how to proceed.
Hey I have a problem and figured maybe you could help me diagnose. When I depress the clutch I have good pressure. However, when the clutch starts returning I can hear from the footwell either air or fluid leaking out of the system. It sounds localized to the master cylinder. I do not notice any fluids leaking externally so my presumption is that it is either leaking internally, or I have air inside of my system that is slipping past the master cylinder piston. Was wondering your opinion and if you’ve ever encountered this before. Thank you in advance
Could be moving parts making strange noises? I've seen mounts, and things break, and get loose. Maybe the vent on the rubber boot is plugged? I don't know. Hear all kinds of strange things from people. If it's not broke, don't fix it? I would check the level once in a while. Make sure it's not running down the inside of the firewall.
Was that vacuum line going to the master or was it after the master ??
Between master and slave. It is a high pressure fluid line.
First time watching this channel even when I am not a mechanic I can tell this is a great technique. Are you in New York? I would like you to check out mine 2014 jetta, the clutch is a bit too soft and make a lil metal noise when put in reverse. It’s a new clutch I’m not sure if it has air still in the system.
I am far away from there.
Then… OKAY BYE
Do I need to open the slave cylinder first?
If the system is already bled, and it still doesn't work, I do this procedure with the slave bleeder closed the whole time.
Hi mate can you offer some advice, i had my clutch done about 16 months ago on a vauxhall vectra sri the kit was a 3 piece Luk, and 5 months down the line my clutch pedal hit the floor, i assumed its the master cylinder because the clutch had already been done, so i got the master cylinder replaced, about four months later same thing happened again, i replaced master cylinder again because i thought it must have been a faulty part and today about 4 weeks on the problem is back, am i correct in thinking that there must be a fault
with the concentric slave cylinder that was fitted with the LUK kit about 16 months back or do you think there is trapped air
in the concentric Slave cylinder? because the master has been done twice now so that rules out the master cylinder.
What car, what brand master?
@@RustBeltAuto Vectra C Luk clutch kit, a few other people i know have replace both salve and master and it didnt help, my mechanic said he thinks It’s air trapped in the crevices of the bearing.
@@sahajankhan1436 what car? You used a LUK master cylinder?
@@RustBeltAuto Vauxhall vectra c sri, 06 plate petrol car.
@@RustBeltAuto Hi sorry please check my very first comment again as i left out alot of details, i have gone through it and corrected it.
Any suggestions Honda civic 2011
I have to push my clutch Padel way down to shift. And the gears are very hard to shift.
If you can pump the pedal, and get pressure, you may have air in it. If you have never serviced it, you probably need a master/slave cylinder.
@@RustBeltAuto will go to mechanic tomorrow. Can it be a clutch and pressure plate issue. Or just the one you mentioned.
@@RustBeltAuto Thnx so much for the reply
@rehan rehman if it has never been serviced it is probably a hydraulic issue.
@@RustBeltAuto it was the cylinder that had to be replaced. I am glad it wasn't the pressure plate issue.
I just how this guy say im going to look down here just for fun
I'm going to do this to my 2007 Saab 93. Should I top off the Master Cylinder beforehand? Thanks in advance!
It wouldn't hurt.
Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes.
All I had to do was fill the damn thing haha
Ive got a mazda 6 change clutch master and slaves cylinder and its wont go into gear now bleed it for hours not change might have to give this a go
I literally just tried this on my Renault Trafic that I’ve put a new clutch, slave and master cylinders in. The bar that attaches the master to the clutch pedal broke. So, if you try this don’t press tooo hard on the pedal to push the fluid past the clamp. Replacing the master on the Trafic (left hand drive) is a real pain but I’ll try to bench bleed the new master this time.
(EDIT) I should point out that the breakage is entirely down to me, nothing wrong with the method!
Mine had same problem the clutch pedal was strong when depressed but when releasing it feels weak like really loose than before is it the clutch?
Can you pump it up, until the pedal feels normal again? What you say doesn't mame sense to me. You mean before, like it was better last week or something?
Ya it pumps up but it seems more loose more sensitive like before I would press the clutch then while releasing it was more stiff now the pedal seems soft more loose when I release it now
@@timbaker5360 if it is old, not new, and not leaking suspect master cylinder issues. Possibly pressure plate issues. Hard to tell you for sure, because I'm not looking at it.
I’m too dumb to get this to work
Jk I just watched your video again and realized I didn’t dead head my pedal thanks man you saved me from another headache and now my clutch engagement is way better
Fake it till you make it.
Wow, great! Except that outer rubber of my hose is already split, cracked and ready to pop. Lol. So I'm afraid of squeezing it with pliers. So..this technique is essentially same as "blocking the slave cylinder", where you don't allow piston to move, thereby keeping fluid from moving freely in and out of slave cylinder. What happens is, when pedal is pressed, and can't return by fluid from slave, the master cylinder is forced to suck in fluid from above, from reservoir, filling it with fluid instead of air that's in there. So air removes, fluid replaces it, system becomes solid with fluid no air. Air compresses, fluids do not, so hard pedal, no sponginess, full movement of slave, to fully actuate pressure plate, disconnecting clutch. Ahhh, yes. So I'm agonna go down there under the z3 and clamp the shit outta the slave piston rod. And pump clutch pedal. And hope. Btw, blocking... clamping...is HORRIBLE cause no clamp fits on it. The vice grips...if I could trust the hose...could be an answer. Thanks for this, man! I enjoyed the language too, haha..)
Well, thought I'd add after trying this, I did use a visegrip on the old hose, it did block off flow, I did do the pumping deal, it did seem to help remove air maybe, but my clutch still is not disengaging. Pressure plate, flywheel were rusted solid to clutch plate, I fixed that last week...now thinking maybe the problem is not air in lines. Anybody ever have pressure plate springs bend and not disengage? Thanks again for this..)
Bend no. Diaphragm type springs usually break. If you grind off the rivets, and take the pressure plate apart, you will probably see a crack in the diaphragm.
@@RustBeltAuto thanks for the reply! I agree with you this type of spring would break not bend. So, it's fixed now. Wow. There were two issues. Pressure plate and air in a hose. 1. The pressure plate was brand new, and was apparently installed with three clips being removed before mounting it to the flywheel. When tightening bolts, the self adjusting ring moved itself into the "worn out clutch plate" position. Wow. So, the springs moved into a position as if they were fully compressed, like all the way down to the "stop" ring they go to, when pedal is fully depressed. Pressure plate could never open, clutch could never disengage. So, that, for three months, has been the number one issue...hydraulics was secondary to it. I did bleed all air from the system, three months ago, enough to push the fork all the way and break throwout bearing! Then, the fork actually went so far as to be scraping against pressure plate. Wow. I could look into the slave cylinder hole on bell housing and see the grind marks..and hear the nasty grinding. So there was no air. But I could not imagine anything about the pressure plate issue, so thought it was still air. After multiple attempts at air removal, replacing slave and master cylinders, I had nowhere to buy a new hose to master cylinder, so took two hoses and cooled them together with a third hose I clamped inside them. I had to make it long, due to the "bend" that would have broken the patched connection, and in doing so, I inadvertantly made a high spot in the feed hose. That hose feeds Master cylinder from shared reservoir. Each pump of pedal makes fluid return to reservoir, and then return to cylinder, we just don't see it. And, so, the air I could not remove from system, was trapped in the high point of the hose, and would never and could never be removed. It was like tipping and pouring soda from a clear bottle, seeing it pour out, seeing air in top of bottle that will never leave. I found the best system for me, (btw I did use your visegrip clamping idea, yes it works) if slave cylinder is removed from bell housing, piston actuator rod is pressed slowly and repeatedly against transmission, all air will be pushed up and out through master and into reservoir. BUT, I had made what is basically a "p trap", by extending the hose, and that air kept being reintroduced into master cylinder. (Which fits with your plan to tip the cars...to elevate reservoir...but also, without seeing it, removing air that is trapped in lines. ) So, every pump from below, I could hear a "gurgle of death" from above, coming from the hose. Like sucking air through a straw at bottom of a milkshake. Same sound. I have now tipped the hose to eliminate the p trap. But...better yet, actually found a place that has OEM BMW hose..I bought it. Ha. Ready to reinstall all hydraulics, including the original master cylinder that had tiny pinholes in the center round tube, which makes a seal to outside. That I have plugged with silicone, which is magically impervious to brake fluid. It was responsible for sucking air into master maybe six months ago, when clutch was first reinstalled. Piston seal worked, but second seal leaked, I had seen a few drops of fluid coming from center. Ahhh, yes. There's much more, to this story. Car has not driven since 30' seawater waves cascaded over it filling it with sand. It sat in bmw dealership three years, top down, filled with rain water like a swimming pool. So, if you actually read this, I'll someday make a video to post on my channel, MAKERTOOLS. THANKS AGAIN, for your great video. It helped get me to where it is today... Waiting for a new throwout bearing, pressure plate self adjuster is reset and reinstalled. Running and ready to drive next week for the first time in eight years now. (Though, truthfully, I did drive it with no clutch, starting in 1st gear, shifting with no clutch.) Did that make sense?!? Lol thanks..)
_Returning the new master cilynder, the new slave also, I did it drunk af, and after doing this I was laughing my ass off lol Damn I have car again 🤜🏼🤛🏼_
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