Arjun Deshmukh That’s because he wants you to go to his site and register with your email. That way not only does he get the traffic, he also gets to sell your information. I’d rather make my own textures than see my spam box fill up the way it did after I did that...
@@Airtight215 selling the user information??? This is a very serious accusation and I would be careful with that if I were you. Or is that what you would do? Andrew does so much for the community. Why are you trying to discredit him? I signed up at his site 2 years ago and didn't get any spam. Only the newsletter from the site and you can always unsubscribe.
Christina McKay Well, you can read, but you can’t comprehend. I said what I want and I mean what I say, regardless of how you feel. I bet you can’t name 3 things Drew has done for the community aside from putting materials and textures on a taurus, showing how to model the basic furniture, and putting down the devs who keep him modeling for free. What’s your problem, you as conceded as he is?
I'm actually suprised at the things Andrew "just" learned in Blender. The "distance" slider, the "conformal" unwrap or "transfer uv maps". Andrew teaches himself by teaching us. :) Nice tutorial series! It would be cool to have a last part, where we optimize and export the finished model with baked PBR materials.
Hey Andrew, I have actually been using this method for a log time (knew about it from a MAX tutorial). I think it is easier to just reset the UVs of the stitched parts and then just scale to adjust the seam (it will tile anyway), this is much easier than adjusting the UVs like you did. Then you would just need to fix the rotation of the UVs of some of the faces which isn't much work.
Resetting might work here since the sizes are fairly uniform and the nature of the stitches makes it easier/more size tolerant. For non-uniform stuff where I have welds where you really want the welds appear uniform in size, it makes more sense to: 1) Clear all seams. 2) Make two new seams (in this tutorial). 3) UV/Reset two faces (in this tutorial). 4) Select loop, then the reset face in that loop, and UV/follow active quads. Do this for both loops (in this tutorial). 5) Scale UV around cursor at bottom left with "constrain to image bounds" activated. The idea is to fill the whole UV area. 6) Repetitions are controlled by a mapping node, and you have UV coordinates you can noise up and use for blending etc. You generally want to do this for the shortest loop, or use a common divisor for loops that makes the texture seamless across the seam. The UV work done here were, well, not that great :) Also, I think some of the seams could benefit a 180 rotation - something's very off. This is for simple welds. If you have to deal with weld direction shown proper, it becomes quite a bit more advanced for blending multiple UVs.
@@gottagowork Yes, I totally agree. In most cases though, the faces will usually be uniform enough (not 100%, but only enough) for the stretching to be unnoticed. It would be more accurate to do it the way you described though, specially in case of poorly tileable seams.
Don't know if anyone still reads here, maybe even Andrew: did everything like you, except i beveled the seams and extruded the created faces along the normals, ust tiny bit, otherwise it crushes the texture as i left the former uv unwrapping. This way i got amazing physikal seams in no time. Little hacky, but it works visually!!! And yeah, of course, thx a lot Andrew for all your efford!
3:38 btw shout-out to you although you are considered one of the best experienced blender tutors online nevertheless you still accept any observation with no arrogance whatsoever. I like that :)
Andrew, I would just like to say that I really appreciate the tutorials that you have been making, I joined at the doughnut and now moving through this one. Especially now in these lockdown times it has been extremely valuable and I look forward to spending time in each session!
Amazing job!, I noticed that you could Uv unwrappe all the objects one time by selecting all objects and press tab, this makes them share the same edit mode and then press A this will select all the faces in the model and then unwrappe this will make all maps share the same size. This will make the fabric prefect and saves a lot of time tweaking for different geometry. Really thanks for all you funny and amazing tutorials.
I really appreciate the open source tutorials I’ve been watching your tutorials for years and they have really got me into the profession. If you ever decided to do tutorials on paid programs I believe that a viewer base exist. I think it would help people who are transitioning into the professional workplace and I believe you have the ability, if you are not doing it already.
My little tip from the future: duplicate the mix rgb node which you have used to change colour of the stitches and connect it to the roughness node, change colour to something dark and you get nice reflective stitches, do the same to metalic node, change colour of the stitches to yellow and you get awesome golden stitches.
I just watched a 2-hour 100 tips video before starting this video and wouldn't you know it, something already came in handy! Regarding the part where you're adding a bevel modifier to the three different parts of the couch. You can hold down alt (while multiple objects with the same modifier are selected) and it will automatically apply those changes to the other object's modifier as well! Saves you from having to relink the modifiers each time.
I’m actually a maya and redshift user and I was really struggling to find a good method for this, so i gave this tutorial a shot, turns out the concept translates pretty well to other softwares, thanks so much BG!
This holds true for most concepts in 3D. There aren't many applications that work in a fully unique, totally different way so concepts can be crossed over and adapted pretty easily. I adapt between Houdini and Blender quite a bit.
Problem : The UV's are lagging. Solution : Disable subdiv mod in viewport Reason : Any update to the mesh data will make the modifier stack recalculate
Hey andrew, great tutorial.. at 12:00 you can actually just add another bump node and plug it after the first bump node and connect the texture to it.. you can add as many bump nodes as you want that way instead of mixing and plugging in 1 bump node
My man is back at it with them good tutorials We really need more tutorials how to create materials specially for industrial designer cuz i feel that's where blender lacks as far the community n users are concerned.
11:09 remember to install the node wrangler add on if you had not, you will not be able too access the viewer node when he CTRL + SHIFT clicks. Do this under preferences -> Add-ons -> Search Node Wrangler.
I have been able to fix the corners where seams meet by creating a third UV map and putting seams which cross onto the third map. Then duplicate the (uv map -> image texture -> map range) nodes for your new map and multiply the two together before the bump node. Hope this helps any perfectionists out there :)
15:00 Select one Face do U Reset. Then select the entire part and the face that you just unwrapped last. Then U Follow active quad. This will make a very straight UVs that is very good for what you are doing there.
I really appreciate how he doesn't force us to buy the Polligon membership and throws in the free stuff. Swear I'll buy a Polligon membership when I start getting paid XD
On 6:35 you can go to front orthographic view and do U -> project from view, this way you get 4 perfectly aligned lines, you'll just have to rotate it 90 degrees and adjust a bit
I love Andrew's tutorials, because I learn a dozen more ways to do the same thing down in the comments. I have noticed that if you ask a question at Stack exchange, you may get the answer or may not. But if you post a video tutorial, that says that it's hard to do it in Blender - there will be an avalanche of comments with alternative methods from you to pick from. Humanz...(meme with Tsoukalos here)
I prefer UV -> Follow Active Quads for straightening the mesh. (1) Pick one face in the center of an island, (2) make it perfectly rectangular, (3) select the entire island, and (4) Follow Active Quads should straighten all edges in the island.
Darn it, one more video to collect and I'll be ready to work on this! Also, I'm loving these tutorials you make, it's helped me a lot with my depression recently and finding Blender and your Tutorials really helped me feel like I could do anything!
26:46 If anyone is having issues with ALT + SHIFT + RMB be aware that the direction of the face selection is dependent on the area you click on of the face. To get a face select that selects the faces on the side as opposed to top and bottom make sure you are clicking on the side of the face.
10:00 No, for height maps 50% grey is level. Thou for bump it doesn't matter as much as for displacement. Also, you should use Add and not Screen when combining the maps. Screen gives more of a roll off while Add just adds everything in a scientificy correct way :)
Excellent tutorial but one suggestion, when you have finished a node map put the whole thing on the screen for a couple of seconds so we can pause the video and check it.
A note about the orientation of the faces to the brush UV, the heavy bump indicates the actual join between the where the two pieces of fabric would be and should closest to the corner of the mesh, for example look at the leg seam on some jeans.
If you have a mesh which is _mostly squares_ like your wonky cushion, select the strips to make square, hit U -> Lightmap Pack to first make all the faces squares in the UV layout and then U -> Follow Active Quads (from some selected starting face) to connect all the now-square UV pieces back to strips. This last step doesn't seem to go over seams though, so you will either need to remove your UV seams if you want to do this for a lot of faces or just keep your selection of all strips and manually select one face on every side you haven't yet done and perform the Follow Active Quads step. In Follow Active Quads set the Edge Length Mode to "Even" if you want all of your squares the same size. This will make it so it has perfect scale across all faces and is not randomly growing wider and shorter because of the initial UV layout.
12:51 . if the hight map looks pixlated you can change interpolation mode to smart on the texture. it will smooth it out . edit: also thanks for the shoutout . 25:07 you can actually uv unwrap all of them at once. that way they will share the same size. 25:52 well they say your brain will erase stuff that is not useful. homework gives you a chance to use the stuff you learn.
Thanks for this tutorial series, I followed when it came out two years ago and it went fine. But now I was going for a couch I have at home as the model. For that one, I had to place the stiches right on the seams, one row on each side rather than two rows on the same side. ... Fiddly you said? Just that little change made a big difference (not in the positive side) moving the islands was much more complicated, with the rows being separated and oriented in opposite directions, etc. I was using the "Brush Fabric Stitches 08" from Poliigon, the closest I could find to what I needed. (I actually needed more protruding pinched double hem with much smaller threads). Anyway. I had to go the old fashion way and model everything by hand. I wish there were a better way.
You could reset the UVs for the stitches turning all UV into a square stacked on top of each other, making it easier to control and it's a lot less taxing on you computer!
You don't need the UV squares plugin to straighten UV grids. Pick a square in your UV that looks like it has the rough dimensions of a "normal square" (One that isn't too oddly stretched). STEP 1 - Make a single square square. All you need to do is make your chosen square perfectly rectangular (90 degree corners). So, select the left edge of your square and hit S>X>0 (Scale on the x to 0). Same thing for the right edge. Same for the top edge, except S>Y>0 (Scale on the Y to 0). Now you will have one perfect rectangle with 90 degree corners. STEP 2 - Make all the squares square. Using face select mode in the UV editor, select your perfect rectangle so that it is highlighted. Then, with your mouse hovering over that square press L to select all the rest of the faces on the UV island. Now right click and select "FOLLOW ACTIVE QUADS". Boom!
Thank you for the bevel tip to get a triangle, at first I didn't get it (I honestly though you were a little crazy) but when the time came to mark some seams It's totally woth it
Solution for seams corner is to triangulate face next to the one that connect stitches and wuala now you can join them in the uv editor and there will be no smashing in to other stitch.
Andrew Price is one of the best Blender teacher in this World in my opinion. This kind of 1 min tutorial is maybe fun, but mostly is useless (teaching aspect). It's a pity, that Andrew do not make any longer professional tutorials (like Architecture Academy or Nature Academy).
@@blenderguru They just kidding You, Andrew. They want to see, that you can. "What? I wouldn't jump? I wouldn't jumpt?" So he jumped ;) So...when comes out new Architecture Academy or something similiar, Mr. Price? :)
7:15, Andrew, there's a much faster way to do it... If you have such a wireframe (square poly) you select poligons (what you have in video) then click reset uv, then "u" again and select "fallow active quads" and move the uv to the middle. If the wireframe is made up of rectangles then first unwrap a single poly and then "fallow active quads" and check "Lenght Avarange"...
In order to have some parts of the mesh not be affected by the bump map, you should set it from REPEAT to CLIP in the image node. Then drag whatever faces you don't want affected outside of the texture area in the UV editor.
@@blenderguru Be nice to mention it at the end. It appears some of the seam islands need to be rotated 180 to avoid much of the 'mashing' at the corners. Otherwise loving the tutorial. This is definitely my favorite from you. Learned so much.
I know this might be annoying to answer but would would you be doing any intermediate or advanced tutorial series? Also thanks for the awesome furniture series(es)!
At 20:49 when he adds in the bevel, I do not see any change. Does anybody know what might cause this? Edit. This only occurs on the middle cushion. The base and the siding work fine. Everyone I add the bevel, nothing changes.
i don't know how i did it but first of all i removed 2 vertices by clicking "A" (in edit mode) and "SHIFT + M". after that i started redoing this object inside of it because i thought it was wrong. but just try to remove unnecessary vertices.
@@либретто-и3п If you mean merging extra vertices, I tried that, 0 vertices removed, because I couldn't find any action attached to "Shift + M". (edit: grammar)
Solution: Apply Scale! At first I applied scale and it still didn't show any effect. Then I relaoded my previously saved blender file and this time it worked after applying scale. Hence apply scale and don't trust blender if it says scale applied.
I love how he always puts a free version of poliigon stuff in the description for us. Thanks Andrew
Arjun Deshmukh That’s because he wants you to go to his site and register with your email. That way not only does he get the traffic, he also gets to sell your information. I’d rather make my own textures than see my spam box fill up the way it did after I did that...
@@Airtight215 Jesus Christ man, just unsubscribe from the newsletter. No need to be an asshole. 🙄
@@Airtight215 selling the user information???
This is a very serious accusation and I would be careful with that if I were you. Or is that what you would do?
Andrew does so much for the community. Why are you trying to discredit him?
I signed up at his site 2 years ago and didn't get any spam. Only the newsletter from the site and you can always unsubscribe.
Christina McKay Well, you can read, but you can’t comprehend. I said what I want and I mean what I say, regardless of how you feel. I bet you can’t name 3 things Drew has done for the community aside from putting materials and textures on a taurus, showing how to model the basic furniture, and putting down the devs who keep him modeling for free. What’s your problem, you as conceded as he is?
@@Airtight215 some people are not worth the time. You are one of them. Grow up!
I’ve been subscribed to Poliigon for like, 3 months now, and it’s worth every cent. Fantastic textures, models, HDRIs, etc.
1:13 "I would love to cut my leg open on the side of this couch"
-- Andrew Price 2020
😆
That was my comment on the previous video 😂😂
That would certainly sum up 2020
Ah, remember the chair tutorial😂
I'm actually suprised at the things Andrew "just" learned in Blender. The "distance" slider, the "conformal" unwrap or "transfer uv maps". Andrew teaches himself by teaching us. :)
Nice tutorial series! It would be cool to have a last part, where we optimize and export the finished model with baked PBR materials.
The UV editor is slowed down because of the sudiv surface. Disable it, and it works fine!(along with the "triple click" bug ;) )
@Artisan Doesn't Blender autosave like every minute or two?
@@Sithhy yep, and you can change how often it autosaves in the user preferences :)
This can be also helpful to you: ua-cam.com/video/WUfHdZSdjps/v-deo.html
Tom Simpson you can even set it to save all your textures into the blend files so that the autosaves keep the materials working
Ahh I knew there had to be a reason! Completely forgot it was enabled. Thank you.
Hey Andrew,
I have actually been using this method for a log time (knew about it from a MAX tutorial).
I think it is easier to just reset the UVs of the stitched parts and then just scale to adjust the seam (it will tile anyway), this is much easier than adjusting the UVs like you did. Then you would just need to fix the rotation of the UVs of some of the faces which isn't much work.
thanks bro,get to the top
lets make it feature!
Resetting might work here since the sizes are fairly uniform and the nature of the stitches makes it easier/more size tolerant.
For non-uniform stuff where I have welds where you really want the welds appear uniform in size, it makes more sense to:
1) Clear all seams.
2) Make two new seams (in this tutorial).
3) UV/Reset two faces (in this tutorial).
4) Select loop, then the reset face in that loop, and UV/follow active quads. Do this for both loops (in this tutorial).
5) Scale UV around cursor at bottom left with "constrain to image bounds" activated. The idea is to fill the whole UV area.
6) Repetitions are controlled by a mapping node, and you have UV coordinates you can noise up and use for blending etc.
You generally want to do this for the shortest loop, or use a common divisor for loops that makes the texture seamless across the seam.
The UV work done here were, well, not that great :) Also, I think some of the seams could benefit a 180 rotation - something's very off.
This is for simple welds. If you have to deal with weld direction shown proper, it becomes quite a bit more advanced for blending multiple UVs.
holy smokes, it's actually easier this way!
@@gottagowork Yes, I totally agree.
In most cases though, the faces will usually be uniform enough (not 100%, but only enough) for the stretching to be unnoticed. It would be more accurate to do it the way you described though, specially in case of poorly tileable seams.
Andrew: This is actually pretty difficult to do
Also Andrew: *Poliigon*
"Blender reads Photoshop files now"
If I ever get disposable income I'm Diamond subbing to Blender.
If you get good at Blender you should be off making that income!
That's literally one of my life goals 😂
I was never satisfied with my bump map until today. Thanks GURU, for highlighting that comment. As expected of my favorite humble guru💙
I love the added spice of making the corners of all of my furniture razer sharp
Don't know if anyone still reads here, maybe even Andrew: did everything like you, except i beveled the seams and extruded the created faces along the normals, ust tiny bit, otherwise it crushes the texture as i left the former uv unwrapping. This way i got amazing physikal seams in no time. Little hacky, but it works visually!!!
And yeah, of course, thx a lot Andrew for all your efford!
3:38 btw shout-out to you although you are considered one of the best experienced blender tutors online nevertheless you still accept any observation with no arrogance whatsoever. I like that :)
Andrew, I would just like to say that I really appreciate the tutorials that you have been making, I joined at the doughnut and now moving through this one. Especially now in these lockdown times it has been extremely valuable and I look forward to spending time in each session!
Amazing job!, I noticed that you could Uv unwrappe all the objects one time by selecting all objects and press tab, this makes them share the same edit mode and then press A this will select all the faces in the model and then unwrappe this will make all maps share the same size. This will make the fabric prefect and saves a lot of time tweaking for different geometry. Really thanks for all you funny and amazing tutorials.
I really appreciate the open source tutorials I’ve been watching your tutorials for years and they have really got me into the profession. If you ever decided to do tutorials on paid programs I believe that a viewer base exist. I think it would help people who are transitioning into the professional workplace and I believe you have the ability, if you are not doing it already.
8:40 for those who can't find reset option. Your cursor need to be over 3d viewport. It's wierd there is no option in UV editor window.
Héroe!!!!
You saved my life.
I LOVE YOU
There's an option in the UV menu as well! Couldn't find it either :)
@@WoutStandaert Maybe they added it later or maybe it's only I can't find.
Now I am an Official Poliigon customer, great tutorial! :-)
My little tip from the future: duplicate the mix rgb node which you have used to change colour of the stitches and connect it to the roughness node, change colour to something dark and you get nice reflective stitches, do the same to metalic node, change colour of the stitches to yellow and you get awesome golden stitches.
Finally I finished and got the couch...😍 Tnk u so much
I just watched a 2-hour 100 tips video before starting this video and wouldn't you know it, something already came in handy!
Regarding the part where you're adding a bevel modifier to the three different parts of the couch. You can hold down alt (while multiple objects with the same modifier are selected) and it will automatically apply those changes to the other object's modifier as well! Saves you from having to relink the modifiers each time.
I’m actually a maya and redshift user and I was really struggling to find a good method for this, so i gave this tutorial a shot, turns out the concept translates pretty well to other softwares, thanks so much BG!
This holds true for most concepts in 3D. There aren't many applications that work in a fully unique, totally different way so concepts can be crossed over and adapted pretty easily. I adapt between Houdini and Blender quite a bit.
Problem : The UV's are lagging.
Solution : Disable subdiv mod in viewport
Reason : Any update to the mesh data will make the modifier stack recalculate
Hey andrew, great tutorial.. at 12:00 you can actually just add another bump node and plug it after the first bump node and connect the texture to it.. you can add as many bump nodes as you want that way instead of mixing and plugging in 1 bump node
oh my god thanks man
been struggling to figure some things out and your comment resolved the issue
thanks man
My man is back at it with them good tutorials
We really need more tutorials how to create materials specially for industrial designer cuz i feel that's where blender lacks as far the community n users are concerned.
11:09 remember to install the node wrangler add on if you had not, you will not be able too access the viewer node when he CTRL + SHIFT clicks. Do this under preferences -> Add-ons -> Search Node Wrangler.
thanks, this was really helpfull!
Thanks! this came at just the right time for me. the distance vs. strength you just mentioned in passing was a revelation!
This is the content that I live for.
I'd also been using bump wrong for all these years! Thanks Ali!
Ahh, a 30 minutes video it's around 3 hours in real life ;)
no shit.
teaching with mistakes makes it better understood why you know what to fix when something is wrong :) GREAT !
I have been able to fix the corners where seams meet by creating a third UV map and putting seams which cross onto the third map. Then duplicate the (uv map -> image texture -> map range) nodes for your new map and multiply the two together before the bump node. Hope this helps any perfectionists out there :)
I am not a modeller, but I still thank you. That's how important your work is :)
15:00 Select one Face do U Reset. Then select the entire part and the face that you just unwrapped last. Then U Follow active quad. This will make a very straight UVs that is very good for what you are doing there.
boy this one is gonna take a lot longer than the other parts
I really appreciate how he doesn't force us to buy the Polligon membership and throws in the free stuff. Swear I'll buy a Polligon membership when I start getting paid XD
On 6:35 you can go to front orthographic view and do U -> project from view, this way you get 4 perfectly aligned lines, you'll just have to rotate it 90 degrees and adjust a bit
I love Andrew's tutorials, because I learn a dozen more ways to do the same thing down in the comments. I have noticed that if you ask a question at Stack exchange, you may get the answer or may not. But if you post a video tutorial, that says that it's hard to do it in Blender - there will be an avalanche of comments with alternative methods from you to pick from. Humanz...(meme with Tsoukalos here)
my blender skill only improves whenver Blender guru does a tutorial series loll😂 thanks Andrew!!!
25:37 aren't you using the wrong image to map the seams on? Or did I miss something?
The way how he ignores the perspective viewport clipping during navigation in 3D view makes me breath heavily. :D
Ikr
I prefer UV -> Follow Active Quads for straightening the mesh. (1) Pick one face in the center of an island, (2) make it perfectly rectangular, (3) select the entire island, and (4) Follow Active Quads should straighten all edges in the island.
Darn it, one more video to collect and I'll be ready to work on this!
Also, I'm loving these tutorials you make, it's helped me a lot with my depression recently and finding Blender and your Tutorials really helped me feel like I could do anything!
This channel is pure madness! Bravo!!
I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT SINCE LEARNING BLENDER, THANK U SO MUCH BROTHER
26:46 If anyone is having issues with ALT + SHIFT + RMB be aware that the direction of the face selection is dependent on the area you click on of the face. To get a face select that selects the faces on the side as opposed to top and bottom make sure you are clicking on the side of the face.
10:00 No, for height maps 50% grey is level. Thou for bump it doesn't matter as much as for displacement.
Also, you should use Add and not Screen when combining the maps. Screen gives more of a roll off while Add just adds everything in a scientificy correct way :)
Color ramp for smoothing the bump :) better than a range, more comfortable
tip..... i just learned the hard way not to apply the second subsurface modifier, the stitching will be 20 times harder
"I'm going to hit numberpad slash to go into local edit mode" - mind blown!
Excellent tutorial but one suggestion, when you have finished a node map put the whole thing on the screen for a couple of seconds so we can pause the video and check it.
Legend has it he is still making donuts
Um nope thts old bruh
@@bhavinb.artstation shut up
A note about the orientation of the faces to the brush UV, the heavy bump indicates the actual join between the where the two pieces of fabric would be and should closest to the corner of the mesh, for example look at the leg seam on some jeans.
Amazing tutorial as always! Thank you for putting this up!
If you have a mesh which is _mostly squares_ like your wonky cushion, select the strips to make square, hit U -> Lightmap Pack to first make all the faces squares in the UV layout and then U -> Follow Active Quads (from some selected starting face) to connect all the now-square UV pieces back to strips. This last step doesn't seem to go over seams though, so you will either need to remove your UV seams if you want to do this for a lot of faces or just keep your selection of all strips and manually select one face on every side you haven't yet done and perform the Follow Active Quads step.
In Follow Active Quads set the Edge Length Mode to "Even" if you want all of your squares the same size. This will make it so it has perfect scale across all faces and is not randomly growing wider and shorter because of the initial UV layout.
Just finished the chair tutorial, fabulous! Thank you bro!
The guru should never apologize for selling a texture. You give too much just by making these videos.
Great method for the seams and hadn't known some of the UV unwrap tricks. Thanks!
12:51 . if the hight map looks pixlated you can change interpolation mode to smart on the texture. it will smooth it out .
edit: also thanks for the shoutout .
25:07 you can actually uv unwrap all of them at once. that way they will share the same size.
25:52 well they say your brain will erase stuff that is not useful. homework gives you a chance to use the stuff you learn.
Hehe nice to see you here man , you are a big helper everywhere
@@montadhersabah7262 thanks i love sharing random skills i got.
YOU ARE A GENIUUUSSSS!!! Thanks, bro! Helped me a lot!
I wish i had you as my math teacher
just watched the whole video, very cool video Andrew!
Thank you so much for this "Conformal" tipp!!
Hearing that rapid triple click is music to my ears.
8:42 for those who could not find "Reset" just click Shift+F3 and tape "Reset UV"
this guy is truely the blender Guru after that its CG Geek
Thanks Andrew, exciting times for Blender!
In my opinion, blender should change the "Non Color Data" option to " Non Color DAHTAA"
Haha
Thanks for this tutorial series, I followed when it came out two years ago and it went fine. But now I was going for a couch I have at home as the model.
For that one, I had to place the stiches right on the seams, one row on each side rather than two rows on the same side. ... Fiddly you said? Just that little change made a big difference (not in the positive side) moving the islands was much more complicated, with the rows being separated and oriented in opposite directions, etc.
I was using the "Brush Fabric Stitches 08" from Poliigon, the closest I could find to what I needed. (I actually needed more protruding pinched double hem with much smaller threads). Anyway. I had to go the old fashion way and model everything by hand.
I wish there were a better way.
You could reset the UVs for the stitches turning all UV into a square stacked on top of each other, making it easier to control and it's a lot less taxing on you computer!
easy for you! all you need to do is fast forward and the work is done! we don't have that button.
16:41 gotta use that on my friend. very helpful tool.
I love your vids and you have gotten me though very tough problems in modeling
You don't need the UV squares plugin to straighten UV grids.
Pick a square in your UV that looks like it has the rough dimensions of a "normal square" (One that isn't too oddly stretched).
STEP 1 - Make a single square square.
All you need to do is make your chosen square perfectly rectangular (90 degree corners). So, select the left edge of your square and hit S>X>0 (Scale on the x to 0). Same thing for the right edge. Same for the top edge, except S>Y>0 (Scale on the Y to 0). Now you will have one perfect rectangle with 90 degree corners.
STEP 2 - Make all the squares square.
Using face select mode in the UV editor, select your perfect rectangle so that it is highlighted. Then, with your mouse hovering over that square press L to select all the rest of the faces on the UV island. Now right click and select "FOLLOW ACTIVE QUADS".
Boom!
Imagine the face on the guy who used to make a living selling 3D couches.
Dude these videos are so helpful and hilarious
Well it looks good
I am waiting for next part
incredubly helpful as alway, thanks Andrew.
I see you are early, here have a break, have a kitkat
I learn so much with your videos dude! Tysm
This method will forevermore be known as: "The Andrew Price Copyright Trademark Seam Method"
Don't forget the material for the couch feet. Since it's metal, it should be pretty simple, but the couch won't be done without it.
Thank you for the bevel tip to get a triangle, at first I didn't get it (I honestly though you were a little crazy) but when the time came to mark some seams It's totally woth it
Hehe my computer died, I knew my GPU was on its last breath. I'm gonna take a break 👍 you the best bro
I have been waiting for this for more than 24hrs :D
I have been looking for this for so long
Solution for seams corner is to triangulate face next to the one that connect stitches and wuala now you can join them in the uv editor and there will be no smashing in to other stitch.
Great course!! blender 3.6 now includes an add on just for this! "Baking: VDM Brush Baker"
Would really love Andrew to make a fast tutorial like Ian or the other guy!
Hey I too make fast tutorials
Andrew Price is one of the best Blender teacher in this World in my opinion. This kind of 1 min tutorial is maybe fun, but mostly is useless (teaching aspect). It's a pity, that Andrew do not make any longer professional tutorials (like Architecture Academy or Nature Academy).
Bro delete this comment before cgmatter finds you and destroys you
I may or may not do a 5 min version for the whole series at the end ;)
@@blenderguru They just kidding You, Andrew. They want to see, that you can. "What? I wouldn't jump? I wouldn't jumpt?" So he jumped ;) So...when comes out new Architecture Academy or something similiar, Mr. Price? :)
Thankyou very much sir you are telling us everything in detail. God bless you thankyou so so so much sir
thank you so much for this... i still didnt get some parts right but the sofa is still awesome
Really enjoying your tutorial videos
7:15, Andrew, there's a much faster way to do it... If you have such a wireframe (square poly) you select poligons (what you have in video) then click reset uv, then "u" again and select "fallow active quads" and move the uv to the middle. If the wireframe is made up of rectangles then first unwrap a single poly and then "fallow active quads" and check "Lenght Avarange"...
In order to have some parts of the mesh not be affected by the bump map, you should set it from REPEAT to CLIP in the image node. Then drag whatever faces you don't want affected outside of the texture area in the UV editor.
9:56 Looks like some of the islands need rotating 180° in the UV map to get the direction to line up?
Yep. I'll probably do that off-recording though. Didn't wanna make this even longer :P
@@blenderguru Be nice to mention it at the end. It appears some of the seam islands need to be rotated 180 to avoid much of the 'mashing' at the corners. Otherwise loving the tutorial. This is definitely my favorite from you. Learned so much.
@@Siphonife He doesn't have to if he doesn't want to.
Wow, can’t wait to see what you make next!
For UV unwrapping i would recommend the Textools add-on, which is free
I know this might be annoying to answer but would would you be doing any intermediate or advanced tutorial series?
Also thanks for the awesome furniture series(es)!
At 20:49 when he adds in the bevel, I do not see any change. Does anybody know what might cause this?
Edit. This only occurs on the middle cushion. The base and the siding work fine. Everyone I add the bevel, nothing changes.
hey. did you solve this problem, because i have the same one(
i don't know how i did it but first of all i removed 2 vertices by clicking "A" (in edit mode) and "SHIFT + M". after that i started redoing this object inside of it because i thought it was wrong. but just try to remove unnecessary vertices.
@@либретто-и3п If you mean merging extra vertices, I tried that, 0 vertices removed, because I couldn't find any action attached to "Shift + M".
(edit: grammar)
Solution: Apply Scale! At first I applied scale and it still didn't show any effect. Then I relaoded my previously saved blender file and this time it worked after applying scale. Hence apply scale and don't trust blender if it says scale applied.
In edit mode: Mesh->Merge->by distance. I had double vertices at the little part of the couch that sticks out.
You has to rotate some uv shells to 180 because they some kind of inverted.
When you go to click on that free texture link and get hit with that "page not found" message
3:45 Me: Oh! I think I should also change it.
after a few seconds: Oh, I don't have one.