How To Replace 1986 Volvo 240 Timing Belt and Front Seals
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- Опубліковано 12 лис 2017
- In this video, I'll be showing you how to replace a Volvo 240 timing belt and front seals. This includes the camshaft seal, intermediate gear seal, and cam seal. Overall this job with filming took about 4 hours, but if you're not filming I'm sure it can be done under 2 hours for sure.
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IG: mgaquer - Навчання та стиль
By far the most efficient, yet well-detailed tutorial I've found on replacing the timing belt and seals. Thanks for this video!
Thank you!
No need for any apologies. An excellent video, coupled with your pleasant personality!!
Thank you for your most professional presentation.
I just finished my second timing belt job on an 88, last one was an 89. two years ago. Thanks to Matthew it was a complete success. Regarding removing crankshaft bolt, I used an air impact gun and pully did not move. Tightening the bolt torqued it to 44lb and held the pully by using metal coat hanger wire and wrapped around sturdy part, and twisted the coat hanger. Good luck to all the 240 volvo owners, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
I hope you torqued that bolt to 144 ft. lbs. and not 44lb.
I appreciate that your version is less sterile than the IPD video for this. It's a job I've done before, but I always like to review the procedure before I do it again just to make sure I'm in the right headspace for it.
Thank you.
for anyone needing a little clearer view of some things, the IPD vid is here: ua-cam.com/video/7eIFWUbSZTw/v-deo.html
as a general rule I like to see a few people do any job like this before I go try it myself, even when it's jobs I've done myself before, just because there's lots of little things that you can mess up if you're not fully prepared.
Thanks for the info sir. I have all the parts and I’m ready for the job. I thought I might of needed a timing gun, but I looks like it’s all about the marks. 1989 240 DL here. Just hit 300,000! Your videos are alway extremely helpful. The worst repair job so far was replacing the blower motor, but I knocked it out. Thanks again!
That’s awesome your odometer still works
This video really helped. Pretty bummed you sold your 240? Please get another and make more videos. The community needs it! Volvo for life
240s are notorious for the engine and the transmission leaks.
Also have wiring issues.
@@FairScale-tx1qv Post-86 cars generally just have the usual age-related corrosion issues with the wires that's common in all old cars... pre-86 cars have wiring you'd swear was made by Lucas. And the overdrive unit on the M46 is just the icing on the problem cake.
I see you have a shiny new water pump. Wish you would have filmed that. You make it look so easy. Im old and female so it's been quite the challenge. I have an 87. Love my brick. Thanks for your videos on the volvo. Im not into bodybuilding to much.
love your videos man. I just got an 87' 240 that I am slowly working on. Every one of your videos helps a lot
The U-Bolt trick is brilliant!
Thanks Matt! I never would have attempted this without your video.
Thanks for the video, I plan on doing this job very soon to my 245 GL, including new water pump gaskets
No problem, glad I could help!
Thank-you. This remendously assisted me. The problem is now finding the proper tap screws for the water pump that the fan housing attaches to.
Nicely done video. I used to have an 86 Wagon, my daughter now has a 92 sedan as her first car, and this is a good refresher as I go through it all bringing it up to snuff.
Fantastic presentation. Calm, smooth pace and very clear. Thanks brother.
jsegura525 i appreciate the kind words. Thanks bro!
Very good demonstration of timing point.
Great video! I gotta do this on my son's car this weekend. Your tips will save me a bunch of time. Thank you!
Glad I could help =]
Excellent video, man. Thanks for sharing.
Dude this video was insanely informative. Just did the water pump on my 240, now im gonna change the seals, belt and tensioner!
I appreciate the kind words, glad you enjoyed!
Ok so everything is peachy right now except i dont know how far in the crankshaft seal goes. The otger 2 sat right behind the tapered edge, but the crank seal is sitting sticking out a bit. Is it supposed to be that way?or am i not applying enough pressure to get it in properly?
Didnt find anything online to help.
Excellent video. Gave me confidence to do the same job.
Dude awesome video!
This video really helped me. Thanks man!
Super helpful guide, thank you!
As extra info to anybody with a B23E engine trying this at home: A - the power steering pump belt tensioning system is slightly different and on the battery side of the pump so you'll probably need to remove the air filter and battery to get to it, B - the crankshaft chain trick won't work as the pulley simply slides off but there is a harmonic balancer underneath that you'll need a ratchet gun/puller to get it off in order to get access to the crankshaft gear and seal underneath. Otherwise, a great video! Thanks
Thanks! I hope the viewers will see this helpful comment
Followed your step and had my top done and watched your vid today to set my timing and boom once it started hehehe thanks
I'm glad you were able to complete the job!
Great video!
Big thanks for sharing the great video 👍
Thanks for the great information. This has been very helpful!
Cj Young glad I could kinda help
How did you loosen the upper gear bolt? How did you press the seals in? Also, I would spin the engine around few times to make sure timing marks stay where they are supposed to, before closing it all up.
Doing one of those tomorrow yeah thank you for a look at and a go bye thumbs up dude
Eres el mejor saludos desde Puerto Rico
Great work ethic man
You are a great mechanic. Thank you.
Thanks for the helpful video. I replaced my timing belt today! BTW, I used an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt. Very easy and no need to strap down the pulley.
Thats awesome, if I had air tools, I'd probably do the same!
@@mgaquer no need for air tools, that's what the 5ft bar of pleading is for...
We need more volvo 240 vids 😅😅😅 i love them
Victor Pelini thanks!
Perfect, Thanks !
Very helpful thank you bro
perfect. thank you!
Nice content. I have done this work as well on my Volvo. Compare to my new car. My new car was a nightmare to change the timing belt. Good old Volvo is much easier to work on.
Hi, I tried to change the pulley for 15 days and I spent 10 hours trying to loosen the bolt on the pulley with the crankshaft and it was in the bathroom I had to pay 25 dollars to put it in but it was great greetings
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thanks for a great video
amazing!
Thank you Boss
Just a comment for anyone who might be watching this in the future: The camshaft seal needs to set further back in the groove than shown when he took off the pulley and washer. There is a chamfered edge and the seal needs to go far enough back to clear the back edge of that chamfer.
Having said that...this is a GREAT guide. I used the u-bolt/chain method after watching this and have referenced the video several times as I’m in the middle of a belt change myself. Great job!
Tha is Chuck!
Great video brother. How is it running? Smooth like butter?
Very helpful video, I just completed this job on my 1986 740 and I was able to finish in just over 3 hrs. Nice tip for pulling the flywheel. Thanks!
! Done !....:) :) :)..Thank You, very MUCH...:)
So glad you made this gonna be doing this soon. But a question: is there anywhere with all the torque specs needed for bolts?
For the crankshaft pulley bolt: 144 ft lbs and the rest I think I just did a 1/4-1/2 turn past tight (don't quote me though, im no expert lol)
Matthew Gaquer ayyye thanks bruh
Hi, can u tell me numbers for all 3 seals? :)
8:48 Easy with the torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt, you said it right but captioned it wrong, the CORRECT TORQUE IS 44 FT/LB OR 60 N.M plus an additional 60 degrees or 1/6th of a turn according to the genuine volvo manual. And for the Camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets the correct torque is 35 FT/LB & 37 FT/LB respectively.
Can you do a video on the hose layout? Maybe how to check for leaks, i really love your video style and i have 86 volvo wagon same color as your sedan hahah
It's pretty straightforward in regards to hose leaks. Is your car overheating? Is there a puddle of coolant below the engine bay? How long since replacement? Are they brittle and cracked? If you're unsure, the hoses are cheap from FCPeuro and IPDusa, just order them, drain your coolant, and refill the system with fresh coolant
Question how far do u push the seals in? And have u had any leaks?
I use the old seal to get that final seating.
Get it cleaned up first.
don't break stuff loose with a torque wrench. good vid thanks.
Awesome video thank you! How did you get the new seals in.....do they press in with your fingers or do you need a tool to get them in straight?
I️ did
my timing belt, tensioner and seals today...the 3/8 socket extension worked a charm on the cam seal! I’ve read that after 500 miles to pop off the plug on the timing cover, loosen the tensioner and turn the crank 180 degrees and re tighten the tensioner to ensure that any slack is taken out after the belt has worn in and stretched slightly. Thanks for the great video!
I followed your instructions for the crankshaft line up and was 180 degrees off. My car is 1993 model 240. Never trust the harmonic balancer (pulley). Trust gear behind it.
Ok... Great video... But that u bolt trick is stumping me. I tried a 3" u bolt (largest at Home Depot), but couldn't fit the bolt in the hole. I tried a smaller one, but I just end up hitting the block or the plastic belt cover. What size u bolt did you use?
It was an exhaust clamp found at my local Discount Auto Parts store here in south Florida. Other than that, I’d go buy a straight bolt and buy that fits and just attach a chain? Hope this helps
I hear a knocking sound on my 1982 244 Volvo. Could it be a bad timing belt?
Thanks for the great video! I replaced the timing belt for my 1981 volvo 240 in September. I wanted to replace the 3 seals, but was intimidated for the removal of the 3 gears and putting them back on with the right torque. How did you remove the cam gear and the intermediate gear making sure these were not moving? Likewise, how did you do it with the right torque without it being moved clockwise? I could see one gear with 44 ft lb; what about the other 2? I like your seal removal tool. Did you make it yourself?
Thank you Mathew for the information!
a quick google search found this link. That tool looks invaluable for any service work. Your question about the gears is excellent, wish someone would chime in. Likely having to face this sometime soon.
www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=asc_df_B000FPYW4K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15377480107139816425&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019637&hvtargid=pla-633100651832&psc=1
I recently purchased a new timing cover - top, bottom and inner - and am having a heck of a time trying to install the top cover with the pulley in place. Have you ever tried to install the top cover without removing the pulley? If you have, were you able to? Thanks.
When you say top cover, do you mean the one easily accessible and held on by two 10mm bolts? If yes, then yea I’ve always taken that off first while every pull and timing belt is still intact. If you mean the back plastic that slides through all the shafts (top, intermediate, and crankshaft) then no, you will need to remove all theee to do that
@@mgaquer Thanks for your quick reply. Yes, I mean the top cover - not the inner or back cover. I tried to install a new top cover on yesterday without removing anything and wasn't able to. I left it in place - half on/half off - on the car all night and returned to it this morning to remove it completely. Unfortunately, it's only 15 degrees outside and the cold plastic cracked while trying to remove it. I will have to order a new top half and will wait until I do the timing belt/tensioner/seals when the warmer weather comes before putting it on.
For anyone doing this in the future, instead of a bolt if you just get some 12 or 10 gauge mechanics wire and loop it through the pulley and the sway bar a few times it holds it too.
Hey Matthew, great video! I plan on using this video to change my timing belt in the upcoming future! Was wondering if you could take a look at a video I posted recently. Having a major problem with my 240 '89. Can't tell if its a fuel delivery problem, timing belt issue or PCV/Air intake issue.....
If you can't, no problem, keep up the good work.
marc cefalu sure, feel free to email me too
@@mgaquer I would email the video to you sure. Just need your email. If you want to look at here, I think you can find it on my profile
I was wondering how I was going to keep the engine from turning when I removed the crankshaft bolt! Thanks!
Doorguru glad I could help! I knew the people would wanna see that trick lol
@@mgaquer do you still have this 240
I have 1986 volvo 240 dl.Im at my end of rope i have no spark from coil.I replaced icu,ecu,mass pickup in distributor,coil,ignition switch,fuel relay,spark plugs need help please
bad plug wires
Anyone else find the seals didn’t come out in one piece? After a long time picking at mine they just started to fall apart and I had to scrape them out. Also my old ones are paper thin and the internal spring from the intermediate shaft seal is nowhere to be seen, so thinking it must have gone inside.
What size you Bolt
You don't need that ubolt and chain to keep the pulley still, just put the transmission in 5th if it's an m47 and chock the rear wheels
It’s AW70 though
I have taken out the front spark plug and used the special volvo tool to lock the engine in place.
So - I can't apply enuf squeeze to the spring clips on my 93 240 dist cap to secure it . Is there a tool or technique for this?
terry smythe I start by getting one side on first (usually the side closest to the firewall), then use a flat-head screwdriver shaft, place under the clip on the front and use both hands on the screwdriver to pry upward until the spring can clamp on the dizzy cap
On mine all it took was some finger strength. Maybe try strengthening exercises like the old squeezing the rubber ball trick? Or you could try getting very angry at it and the adrenaline will give you a boost.
How can I get in touch with you?
there is a wagon for sale its a 1986 Volvo wagon 240 red block and it needs a trans it has 160kmiles they want 700 bucks and the engine is good and wagon looks nice do you think is worth it?and do you know model number on those wagon transmissions?will a sedan transmission fit on a wagon?
Depends on the shape, if it's auto/manual, and basic overall condition if I'd get it. If the tranny is automatic, it's the AW70 which u can find at most junkyards or even Ebay, but depending on your skill level is up to you if you want to tackle that job. I'd prob wait to find a 240 for
thanks brother I wanted the opinion of someone that has Volvos.im gonna wait till I find a better Volvo .peace
Looking at a 240 wagon that needs this done to it. I might be driving it away after watching this
I wonder at the same thing as ttt288, but i can’t see what you answered him?
What I did to loosen the bolts was keep the old timing belt on and also locked the crank. That allowed me to break the bolts free, then proceed to remove the gears while installing the new seals. For tightening, the bolts only needed to be tightened to 44 ft lbs if I remember correct which I wrapped the old timing belt around each gear and had someone hold the belt tight while I tightened to correct torque. When you set the new belt, just line up all gears according to timing marks and viola!
Volvo 240 Matt thx for good video and quick response:)
A impact wrench will help with those pulley nuts.
Friend, I have a Volvo 740 gle from 1988, petrol and gas, it costs a lot to get it. I give the key several times and it won't start. I'm getting very sad, because it was a childhood dream to buy a 740. Please help me!
How you put more tension on ac belt
Just tighten the tensioner that goes with it
Thanks I see it now. The problem was that apparently my mechanic broke the bolt and don't tell me.
Ahhhhh I’m sorry about that. I hope u can fix it
Thank you so much
What size was that ubolt?
i think 3"?!
@@mgaquer I'm going to attempt to hold it still with mechanics wire lol, wish me luck.
What engine
Looks like a new water pump
9
kooL nat bad
Bro just use ebrake and barke to lock the engine