For 20 years I have been driving redblocks (7-900's) that were mostly 'pre-loved' (yes that word makes me cringe but it can be true) and sometimes 'pre-neglected', I've driven them hard (not so much in Holland but during my years on the Balkans), and although I had sometimes very old belts in the cars they never ripped on me. By now I drive a mint '97 940 which I service meticously in every respect, including the belts. This particular job for me (a DIY-er) is so simple and straight-forward that in my garage shed I can do it in under half an hour easily. On long trips I bring a spare timing belt (along with a few other critical parts), even stranded on the roadside I'll do it in less than an hour with a very basic set of tools, a 24 socket for the big pulley and a bottle of orange nail polish (for timing markings on belt and gears).
9 років тому+30
A good video of something that I do weekly, but so much more could have been shown. A video of this job IN THE CAR would be a great improvement. And the replacement of the two lower seals, by removing the timing cover, would be proper. The water pump fan studs are a frequent source of trouble, and the cam gear bolts are not so easy to remove sometimes. The proper fitting of the crank pulley, with all three belts in place, could almost be its own video. But I'm doing this actually IN the engine compartment, where I'd imagine you are too. All new timing belts will have alignment marks to mate with the cam dots and crank notch.
@@ethixhiggins5059 air condition? power steering ? alternator as you mentioned. And timing belt is the fourth. Actually there are four on my 1998 940 station wagon
Thanks guys! Watching this video gave me the confidence to go ahead and do it myself! Good to know if I mess up no damage will be caused to the motor due to my potential error on belt alignment!
8:35 Easy with the torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt, the CORRECT TORQUE IS 44 FT/LB OR 60 N.M plus an additional 60 degrees or 1/6th of a turn according to the genuine volvo manual. And for the Camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets the correct torque is 35 FT/LB & 37 FT/LB respectively.
Excellent video which I found very helpful. Having the engine in a cradle does make the job seem easier than it is, but for instructional purposes, the cradle allows the viewer to see the procedures with clarity and without obstruction. The crankshaft pulley holder is a nifty tool, which I didn't have the benefit of. However, I took a grinder to a G clamp and shaped it to fit into one of the tool location points in the pulley - does the job pretty well. I found conflicting information about valve/piston clash on the net, but IPD were spot on, and my red-block 240 suffered no damage following the snapped cam belt. Thank you to IPD for such a professional and useful video.
Great video. It is amazing how many people complain when they must not have paid much attention to your remarks about this not being for the 16 valve, Just did my sons Volvo 244 and since the upper plastic timing cover is missing the timing marks your video came in handy. Original belt was off by a tooth. now she has the power that she was meant to have. thanks.
In my experience they are good to change every other belt change. However you are correct that it is a relatively inexpensive part so changing it every time is definitely an option.
Not all engines in this family are non interference. The 16v engines (B234F) are inteference engines aswell as the carbureted B200K and B230K engines. The B200K and B230K were specced for high compression, the B230K has the flat 631 head with the combustion chambers in the pistons instead of the head, and as such will damage the valves if the timing belt breaks or is incorrectly installed. The K-engines were not available in America though so I suppose that might be why that information is omitted from the end note. So if you happen to have any of these engines be extra careful with your timing belt service intervals and installation.
Thank you for the good video. I have a B230FK,with a ignition distributor behind the motor, so I think that the position of the middle gear is not important and in this case only for the drive of the oil-pump?
Hopefully someone is still on this site... Is there a reason you can use a self locking nut on the tensioner to let it keep tension all the time on the belt instead of locking it in one position
@@OwenGodfrey-g8s did you turn it a few times? If running fine don't worry about it. Make your own marks if need be. The aux one doesn't matter as long as it's not a dizzy cap model.
I wanted to ask a question. I recently had to replace a timing belt tensioner. At the same time, I went ahead and replace the harmonic balancer. After installing the timing belt and the tensioner and the harmonic balancer. I started the engine without the alternator, air conditioner, and power steering belt. So I can make sure the timing belt and the harmonic balancer is installed right. Is the harmonic balancer suppose to wobble? Is this because the belts are not on it? Or is there a problem?
I look at this video.And could not help and notice ,did you forget to replace the keyway on the crankshaft? It looks like it is not on,then you put on the crank pulley on ? I stand to be corrected? Thank you.
Even though the crank has a big slot for a keyway there isn't any. Instead there is just a tiny part on the inside of the gear that slides into the slot in the crank and a tiny part that sticks out on the front of the gear for the pulley. A normal mod on heavily modified engines (especially when using a 16v interference head) is to get an aftermarket gear that uses a proper keyway, I have on my 16v engine.
Naprawdę silnik B230 ma konstrukcję bezkolizyjną? Przecież jest to silnik prawie identyczny z silnikiem B200, w którym musiałem wymieniać pogięte zawory, gdy pękł pasek rozrządu. Silnik ten miałem w Volvo 340. Do filmu chyba wkradła się "drobna" nieścisłość?
great vid, Ok , I went according to diagrams ... crank wobbles and I didn't know the single marks vs double mars ! aha! my engine runs , but heck not well ! thanks for the info !
I just did a headgasket job on my 94 940 and followed these steps. The car ran beautiful for 50 miles then I parked it. This morning It started right up but 60-90 seconds later it died and now It will not start and isn't cranking properly It just makes a whirring noise consistent with how long I hold the key on start. I've checked my timing and all is lined up correctly. I don't think it's my starter because the engine is turning over it just doesnt sound like it should Usually the whole engine shakes and it will go, eh-eh-eh-eh. I hope someone can please help me thank you
@@George-ie1si turned out to be the roll pin from the cam gear. The belt was turning the gear but the gear wasn't doing anything. Purchased a solid pin through ipd and it drove like a dream after
@@anthony4863 It's a bit frustrating when you need an answer and you don't get one. I have a GL360 and have owned it for 8 years my aunt bought it new and gave it to me when she turned 90 the car is low km and in mint cond. I'm changing the timing belt soon.
Put a new seal in with your fingers?! Are you joking? I'm not King Kong. By the way, mark on the intermediate shaft means nothing here if this was 740 /940 model.
James Ebola It still acts as a balance shaft even if not connected to a distributor. While not critical to line up that mark it is best to do so and take little effort.
If you have a early b230 engine with the distributor on the side of the block i matters big time as it drives the dizzie ,as some car might have earlier engines fitted for various reasons as they do fit , but if the dizzie is on the back of the head no big problem
I love my 1992 740 with 430K miles. Runs fantastic and I can change the timing Belt in under 2 hours including breaks and putting tools away.
Under 2 hours, huh? Will you come and do mine? lol
@@bobjohnson205
If you’re close to Naples Florida I would be glad to help you with it
@@chrisj197438 Darn! Not even close! lol Thanks for the offer! :)
@@bobjohnson205
You’re welcome. It really is an easy job that almost anyone can do.
@@chrisj197438 Than I should be able to handle it! Lol
For 20 years I have been driving redblocks (7-900's) that were mostly 'pre-loved' (yes that word makes me cringe but it can be true) and sometimes 'pre-neglected', I've driven them hard (not so much in Holland but during my years on the Balkans), and although I had sometimes very old belts in the cars they never ripped on me. By now I drive a mint '97 940 which I service meticously in every respect, including the belts. This particular job for me (a DIY-er) is so simple and straight-forward that in my garage shed I can do it in under half an hour easily. On long trips I bring a spare timing belt (along with a few other critical parts), even stranded on the roadside I'll do it in less than an hour with a very basic set of tools, a 24 socket for the big pulley and a bottle of orange nail polish (for timing markings on belt and gears).
A good video of something that I do weekly, but so much more could have been shown. A video of this job IN THE CAR would be a great improvement. And the replacement of the two lower seals, by removing the timing cover, would be proper. The water pump fan studs are a frequent source of trouble, and the cam gear bolts are not so easy to remove sometimes. The proper fitting of the crank pulley, with all three belts in place, could almost be its own video. But I'm doing this actually IN the engine compartment, where I'd imagine you are too. All new timing belts will have alignment marks to mate with the cam dots and crank notch.
3 belts? Thought its just alternator and timing belt what's the third?
Yes, it's a much easier job when the engine is removed from the car. Why didn't I think of that! Lol
@@ethixhiggins5059 air condition? power steering ? alternator as you mentioned. And timing belt is the fourth. Actually there are four on my 1998 940 station wagon
Thanks guys! Watching this video gave me the confidence to go ahead and do it myself! Good to know if I mess up no damage will be caused to the motor due to my potential error on belt alignment!
8:35 Easy with the torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt, the CORRECT TORQUE IS 44 FT/LB OR 60 N.M plus an additional 60 degrees or 1/6th of a turn according to the genuine volvo manual. And for the Camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets the correct torque is 35 FT/LB & 37 FT/LB respectively.
44FT/LB and 60 degrees are 122 FT/LB bot lot everyone would have torque wrenches going to it in the old hobby tolset remember.
Thanks for this, I haven't done one of these in 20 years, and now my daughter got bit by the Volvo bug. :)
There's a vaccine she can take for that. lol
Excellent video which I found very helpful. Having the engine in a cradle does make the job seem easier than it is, but for instructional purposes, the cradle allows the viewer to see the procedures with clarity and without obstruction.
The crankshaft pulley holder is a nifty tool, which I didn't have the benefit of. However, I took a grinder to a G clamp and shaped it to fit into one of the tool location points in the pulley - does the job pretty well.
I found conflicting information about valve/piston clash on the net, but IPD were spot on, and my red-block 240 suffered no damage following the snapped cam belt.
Thank you to IPD for such a professional and useful video.
I do not use a pulley tool either. I use my mini impact and just brap it loose with the belt on still.
This is a fantastically clear and informative video.
Thank you very much indeed.
Great video. It is amazing how many people complain when they must not have paid much attention to your remarks about this not being for the 16 valve, Just did my sons Volvo 244 and since the upper plastic timing cover is missing the timing marks your video came in handy. Original belt was off by a tooth. now she has the power that she was meant to have. thanks.
this is a great video guys! if ONLY everything went this easy, but it almost never does lol
I mean use all the right tools and it shouldnt be a problem
Since you've got the engine this far apart, Change the belt tensioner anyway, It's not an expensive part.
In my experience they are good to change every other belt change. However you are correct that it is a relatively inexpensive part so changing it every time is definitely an option.
it is me--or does the crankshaft pulley red-mark move off the Zero mark in the video? was it supposed to or is that an error in the video?
Not all engines in this family are non interference. The 16v engines (B234F) are inteference engines aswell as the carbureted B200K and B230K engines. The B200K and B230K were specced for high compression, the B230K has the flat 631 head with the combustion chambers in the pistons instead of the head, and as such will damage the valves if the timing belt breaks or is incorrectly installed. The K-engines were not available in America though so I suppose that might be why that information is omitted from the end note.
So if you happen to have any of these engines be extra careful with your timing belt service intervals and installation.
What's the seal behind the water pump? Guess it's the water pump. The cylinder beside this. Think I have oil coming from there
i was scared to see this video but now i know how easy it is to do! THANKS
Thank you for the good video. I have a B230FK,with a ignition distributor behind the motor, so I think that the position of the middle gear is not important and in this case only for the drive of the oil-pump?
Is there a smaller diameter water pump pulley that will fit on the same mounting holes of the 740?
Hi awesome video, but I looking for spare parts for this model. Do you know where I can get help. Thank you.
How do you take the water pump off!!!!!!!!?????????.
Well done, excellent video. Thanks for sharing 👍
Hopefully someone is still on this site... Is there a reason you can use a self locking nut on the tensioner to let it keep tension all the time on the belt instead of locking it in one position
If you ever feel that it may be loose you can open the rubber hole om the top timing cover and loosen the nut and tighten again.
When I took off my timing cover, the marks on the gears and the marks on the pulley didn't line up.
Is that bad? It is running fine.
@@OwenGodfrey-g8s did you turn it a few times? If running fine don't worry about it. Make your own marks if need be. The aux one doesn't matter as long as it's not a dizzy cap model.
I wanted to ask a question. I recently had to replace a timing belt tensioner. At the same time, I went ahead and replace the harmonic balancer. After installing the timing belt and the tensioner and the harmonic balancer. I started the engine without the alternator, air conditioner, and power steering belt. So I can make sure the timing belt and the harmonic balancer is installed right. Is the harmonic balancer suppose to wobble? Is this because the belts are not on it? Or is there a problem?
U just saved me al lot of money. Thx
This is a fantastic video. Thanks for the help guys!
Quisiera saber la sincronización del volvó 460
I look at this video.And could not help and notice ,did you forget to replace the keyway on the crankshaft? It looks like it is not on,then you put on the crank pulley on ? I stand to be corrected? Thank you.
Even though the crank has a big slot for a keyway there isn't any. Instead there is just a tiny part on the inside of the gear that slides into the slot in the crank and a tiny part that sticks out on the front of the gear for the pulley. A normal mod on heavily modified engines (especially when using a 16v interference head) is to get an aftermarket gear that uses a proper keyway, I have on my 16v engine.
Naprawdę silnik B230 ma konstrukcję bezkolizyjną? Przecież jest to silnik prawie identyczny z silnikiem B200, w którym musiałem wymieniać pogięte zawory, gdy pękł pasek rozrządu. Silnik ten miałem w Volvo 340. Do filmu chyba wkradła się "drobna" nieścisłość?
Very helpful, thanks for sharing!!!
great vid, Ok , I went according to diagrams ... crank wobbles and I didn't know the single marks vs double mars ! aha! my engine runs , but heck not well ! thanks for the info !
I just did a headgasket job on my 94 940 and followed these steps. The car ran beautiful for 50 miles then I parked it. This morning It started right up but 60-90 seconds later it died and now It will not start and isn't cranking properly It just makes a whirring noise consistent with how long I hold the key on start. I've checked my timing and all is lined up correctly. I don't think it's my starter because the engine is turning over it just doesnt sound like it should Usually the whole engine shakes and it will go, eh-eh-eh-eh. I hope someone can please help me thank you
Did you sort the problem.
@@George-ie1si turned out to be the roll pin from the cam gear. The belt was turning the gear but the gear wasn't doing anything. Purchased a solid pin through ipd and it drove like a dream after
@@anthony4863 It's a bit frustrating when you need an answer and you don't get one.
I have a GL360 and have owned it for 8 years my aunt bought it new and gave it to me when she turned 90 the car is low km and in mint cond. I'm changing the timing belt soon.
Small world out there! Yeah NEVC!
ohay Nick!
And if you don't have the 'IPD tool PN: T5284' how do you remove the 24mm crankshaft bolt?
Impact. Even the $99 DeWalt 1/4" will remove it.
@@RandomRetroRoom But will it fit on the crankshaft bolt without removing the rad?
@@bobjohnson205 yes, use a short socket with a short 3/8 adapter.
@@RandomRetroRoom Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for this! Is there a video like this for a camshaft swap?
do the timing belt setting change if a turbo is added
No. timing is the same but you would greatly benefit from an IPD adjustable cam shaft pulley and find your best setting.
thank you the dealer charge 1000 dollars for this
Great production video 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Thanks
Great video 👌 thanks :)
Bardzo pomocny film !!!
Thanks!!!!
Put a new seal in with your fingers?! Are you joking? I'm not King Kong. By the way, mark on the intermediate shaft means nothing here if this was 740 /940 model.
James Ebola
It still acts as a balance shaft even if not connected to a distributor. While not critical to line up that mark it is best to do so and take little effort.
If you have a early b230 engine with the distributor on the side of the block i matters big time as it drives the dizzie ,as some car might have earlier engines fitted for various reasons as they do fit , but if the dizzie is on the back of the head no big problem
wtf is the point on on belt markings. just time the engine correctly
Russian plz
Thanks 🤗👍