Tinkering on the 240 | Timing Belt and Cooling System Maintenance
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2022
- I drain the coolant on the Volvo 240 (B230 Redblock) using a tap on the block I had no idea about! I also replace the hoses, belts, thermostat, water pump, radiator etc to catch up with some neglected maintenance on the car.
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#volvo #volvo240 #tinkering - Авто та транспорт
just for your information seeing the distributor is driven by the auxiliary shaft oil pump drive it should be noted that there is a timing mark for this too to keep the distributor timing.740 and 940 are camshaft driven good job done
That's a good point, I forgot to include that! All of the belts I've had came with marks on them too which helps
For anyone replacing the water pump on their own B230, I recommend sliding a long screwdriver or bar under the water pump and prying upwards gently as you tighten the bolts. It'll help make sure the top seal is snug against the block surface above it.
This is the first timing belt video I have seen that didn’t make it look intimidating. I love watching you calmly work on these beauties.
High praise, thank you! It's a nice one to do, especially with all the space for activities!
Totally going to call you Mr timing belt!
that drain plug in the block has always been there for all the 240's i have owned, models even in the mid 70's and the build up under the crank area is common , my 89 240 is dew for its 3rd cam belt change and seals ,last one has 200k on it and still good no cracks it is just time to change it
i'm gonna enjoy this! your channel is a wealth of knowledge, Sir. thank you.
Thanks! Glad you enjoy it!
This is exactly why we regularly change coolant - it turns to acid after awhile. I would rinse your system with distilled water and rust stabilizer to keep your engine block or head free of corrosion and to stop the rusting process.
I'm glad you said that I wasn't sure if I'd got it right. I flushed once with distilled but I'll check out a stabilizer as well. Hopefully not too much damage was done 🤞
@Involvo'd - torque on the tensioner is 37 ft - lbs and it should actually be checked and re-tensioned within 500 miles of the timing belt replacement!
It's quite satisfying when you eventually locate that drain tap and it's a more subtle way of draining the system than yanking off the bottom hose. If you are going to just pull the bottom hose a plastic under-bed storage box is good - large but not deep so you can slide it under and easily see any bits in the flushed coolant. Then you can just dry it, put your socks, boxers and wotnots back in and put it back before your domestic staff notice.
Thank you for this! I’m always amazed by how straightforward these 240s are. I think an idiot like me could tackle this job. Great work.
They are about the best car I've worked on! Glad I could help man!
I thought that breaker bar was going to snap!!!! Nice touch having a tap to drain.
Another job well done. All these bits being done are making this car to last a lifetime. Also, So much room on that engine bay compared to modern cars.
Had no idea that tap existed! What a brilliant idea ❤ I need to do Bev’s coolant before winter.
That's what I said last year, the winter comes around fast 👀😅
I've recently replaced my crank position sensor, seen this bung and wondered what it was for. Brilliant info!
Calmly and sensibly... without spilling a drop. Sensible, civilized... no drama. A thing of beauty! You Go Grrl! Question: on a 1991 240 (driven by daughter at college) Problem: intermittent heat ON/OFF , registering normal, not registering at all. Solution: just change the thermostat? Or does the intermittent indicate a sensor issue? Thx, D Day, Maine
I wrote to you on your last cambelt change about the sound the new belt was making I had this problem every time I changed a cambelt not only on Volvos to over come this problem I found that if I left the tensioner loose and gave the timing belt half a twist on the longest part of the belt camshaft to auxiliary shaft sprockets the noise went away it’s the same if you remove the plug loosen and retighten during the belts life span there should not be any added tension when the belt is new therefore extending the life of the cambelt obviously retighten the belt tensioner lol
To be honest I didn't hear any timing belt noise, but I'll check it out, thanks 👍
Really useful! Didn't know about that tap. Great video as always, thanks!!
Thanks 😃
That split heater hose it only does that because it rubs off the dipstick tube it's happened to me twice lol
That drain plug is good, but if you’ve got a turbo charged engine, then it’s only really accessible from underneath the car, which is a PITA
Ah, didn't think about that!
@@Involvod Yup. Right in the bloody way, hopeless lump of iron 🤣
As always the ultimate Volvo vids and congrats on this thorough and detailed job, must be satisfying to put it all back with frsh material and to discover the loose nut :) The piston slap keeps amazing me as well but they really do when cold and start to sound so much better when warm.
Thanks! This one does concern me a little as it's quite pronounced even when hot, but she's got good compression and doesn't burn any oil so I'm just going to keep driving!
I have seen this drain in one of yt videos of other 240 guy 😆
I knew about that tap Sledge - lol! Looks like you are building a new car.
Awesome job on the 240.
Thanks!
Really love the content on this 240 I mean enjoy it all but this little car is ace. You made doing a cam belt look easy! Aha
Thanks buddy!
FT first time I’ve heard that one. Nice work.
Cheers!
awesome video Sledge!! making me antsy to do my own cooling system maintenance!
Thanks! Very nice! It's very satisfying to get it done 👍
You didn't know because Volvos are unusual in having the coolant drain tap. Most cars require the big hose release with the attendant mess. I didn't know this until you pointed it out.
I was going to install a T piece with a drain tap on the lower radiator hose on my 940, now I'm going to look for the built in drain. Thank you. Don't you just love the Volvo?
btw I presume Sledge is a nick name and further presume you don't mind being addressed as Sledge.
Let me know either way. It's a great nick name for a car mechanic.
I think it's short for Sledge Hammer! Also an appropriate name for a Volvo car mechanic! Lol
Glad I could help! Hopefully with removing the water pump end of the hose first after draining the block you can get it all out without a mess, I'm confident 😃🤞 It's my real name actually!
It's remarkable that there is a drain valve on a car engine, it's even more remarkable that the valve wasn't seized as is usually the case.
I heard they can be tricky, the main issue seems to be them being blocked with gunk
I love your videos!! I don't know how to do any of this stuff but I want to try. Recently on my 1993 240 I've noticed that there is a steeam of coolant coming from the overflow reservoir cap and my temp gauge on the instrument cluster is not functioning as usual. There aren't any leaks in the water pump and I think it's definitely time for a coolant flush. I c a led IPD and they told me the coolant temp sensor is more for starting issues and not associated with the gauge in the instrument cluster and sold me a bypass wire because fixing the temp gauge is pricey otherwise. Besides that I have ordered e new cap for the coolant reservoir. I don't want to drive it because I'm scared the small leak from the cap is from overheating but the temp gauge turns off and on (failing) so I don't trust it's new low resting point. I didn't smell any gas in the coolant either. I'm hoping it's a simple worn out cap (even after cooling I couldn't remove it without a jar opener) and everything online says it should be easily removable. Kinda stuck.
The tensioner I believe is only 15ft/lb and don't forget to slack it off after about 100-200 miles so it adjusts for any possible belt stretch. I used the tap on my 940 today but mine is on the oil cooler housing slightly different location :)
Ist schon ein Weilchen her, allerdings beim B230FB meines damaligen 945. hab nen falschen Zahnriemen bestellt & drauf gemacht, da der mal einen neueren ATM bekommen hatte. Dazu kam, dass ich den zwei Zähne versetzt hatte.
Lief einen Umzug und eine Distanz von ca. 200km mit, dann hab ich meinen Fehler korrigiert.
im Prinzip aber die gleiche Prozedur mit dem Tausch.
Wow, surprised it ran! Glad you found it 👍
@@Involvod the crank up took a moment longer and it ran a very little bit shakier than usual, but at all I haven’t noticed a performance issue, even not with a trailer 😅
You should have asked me about that drain tap, Sledge. I've known about it for years! Lol 😉
😄😄😄
@@Involvod I would have told you about that drain tap but I know how much you want/need 'content'! It made for some great entertaining videos watching you spill out all that coolant! Lol
Great job, Sledge. Will you do some more winterizing on her? Would be nice to see that too.
Thanks! I did actually try some permafilm today but didn't get any footage, good stuff if a bit messy! Will go over a couple of spots in the UK and film it before it gets too cold!
Sorry miss quoted it should be a quarter of a twist not a half twist
you need to invest in some electric powertools :)
My 940 has 2 coolant drain valves, one near the block like you showed in this vid and one on the radiator. Not sure if a 240 radiator has that as well.
No it doesn't, will have to look out for that on future 9's though!
I want loads of new bits for my car, i don't even know if it needs them :D
Hi from malaysia
Hey 🖐️
I just noticed, ... the licence plate ends in "240H". Was that luck or good planning?
It was planning, H is a classic car plate, B is for Berlin, so you have to have those, we got to choose what was in between them for an extra 10€ or so!
I've known about the drain tap on the engine block since I've owned my 740, but I have never touched it as I didn't realise that it drained the whole cooling system, as opposed to just the block...
How easy is it to remove? The one on mine hasn't been removed since at least 2003, so I predict bad times if I try to remove it.
I heard some people had issues with them, mainly being blocked. I've removed 2 and they did loosen with a medium amount of force with a 3/8 ratchet or spanner, anything more than that I'd stop as yeah if it snapped.. bad times indeed
you should have changed front oil seals while you were in there
Hi, Friend!))) 😀👍🔥🔥🔥Well , great job Sledge!))) Listen, have a question?) And what kind of control unit is hanging on the expansion tank, can you tell me the number and what it is responsible for, with a green label like that. ..👍😀🔥🇸🇪🇸🇪
Control unit visible a bit below the expansion tank, on the washer fluid tank, is Chrysler ignition control unit. Found on mid to late 80s LH cars I believe? Never had trouble with mine, but I know that when they fail people tend to swap to other ignition control systems like EZK.
You do want to be careful with that horizontal cable plug as it can accumulate crud and corrosion. I cleaned mine up with contact cleaner and a soft brush and then reassembled with some dielectric grease to keep water out.
@@Khrrck thanks 😀👍🤗🤗🤗
I need to know, my brother, the shape of the distributor and the engine in TDC, the timing belt marks, the mark of both the cam and the intermediate shaft for adjusting the distributor and crank. Thank you in advance, my dear brother.
Mycar volvo 240 1987..
I have 1 240gl it won't start
Sorry to hear that! Perhaps pick up a workshop manual, they can help you at home 👍
Check all your fuses before anything. I replaced my fuel pumps and then realized after continuing starting problems that it was the Fuse.