I'm professionally a toolmaker, but got petrol running through my veins (100% gearhead) and this is one of the most impressive builds i've seen for 2 decades. I'm being honest, this truly handmade engine and "well... i'll just do my best and see" approach is both amazing and refreshing. Maybe it was do to vibrations, but i saw that rpm gauge hit 10K! Simply amazing!
This guy teaches us that anyone can make your own engines. The only problem is that you gotta have the smarts and the correct tools. So can’t wait to see more
You dont need expensive tools to make something cool. Ive made a telescope mirror with nothing more than rocks and 'dirt' that has its accuracy measured in millionths of an inch using a tool made out of a copper pipe, palletwood, a dull boxcutter blade, a couple of scews and a flashlight bulb
This is really impressive. I have been building race engines and doing machine work for 30+ years. This is one of the coolest things I’ve seen in a while. A homemade 2 cycle engine with that limited equipment. Two thumbs up sir!
Damn, that's really impressive. This brings me back in time. Back in the day when we were 15 or 16 and working on our 50cc scooters the stock carbs usually had 12mm. For easy tuning we used 17.5mm dell'ortos with decently sized airfilters and nozzles and most importantly proper exhausts. You would be surpirsed about how an exhaust completely changes the running characteristics and power output on 2 strokes. It's almost tike a turbocharger on 4 strokes. Back pressure has a lot to do with it. And the way gases flow through it, that's why tuning exhausts tend to be bow shaped. And not to forget they take away the heat from the cylinder. WIthout one the engine runs like crap and tends to overheat. And fuel mixture was usually 50:1 so you don't get smoked to death and the engine wont choke on soot. When you combine a proper carb, intake and exhaust with a sport clutch and variator your 50km/h scooter was ready for 90km/h, sometimes much faster depending on the engine, how it was geared and what else was done to it. Adding fuel chanels between crankshaft and cylinder or making them larger and the exhaust channels larger also helps. Next step would be 70, 80 or even 90cc. It's unbelievable how much power you can get out of those tiny engines and how fast the accelerate. It's like riding a cannon ball, you just cant keep the front wheel on the ground. All this was highly illegal in germany, but it was easy to loose the cops because scooters can go just about anywhere. Just bend up the license plate and be gone. We felt like ghost rider on our Aprilia SR50's, Peugeot Speedfight 2's, Yamaha Aerox's and Piaggio Zip's. Everyone had a "Scooter tuning is not a crime" sticker. Show's that you don't need expensive cars to have fun with tuning something.
@@radicaledward4717 You can turn that little thing into a rocket with like 500€. Even just taking out the speed limiters would probably get you up to 70 km/h (I don't know the english word, we call it Drossel in german) There should be a metal ring that limits your max speed in the variator. You can just take that out in a matter of minutes. And maybe there are blind tubes that are welded to the manifold of the exhaust to reduce engine power. You can cut that off and weld the hole shut, so the exhaust gasses can flow freely. Sometimes there also is a metal piece inside the manifold to limit the diameter. Take that out as well. Then your scooter is not limited anymore and goes as fast as the engine can. It's even better for the engine because it can finally work in it's default condition. Piaggio engines are great for tuning and very durable. I had one in my Aprilia SR50R Factory almost 20 years ago. That thing made about 140 km/h. You couldn't go full throttle under 70 km/h or the front wheel would rise up.
4:40 That "little tool" you made is called an arbor, for anyone wondering. Good thinking for a relative beginner, you're improving rapidly and picking up all sorts of tricks! Much better looking welds these days, too.
and at that scale, sometimes you can get away with super gluing the part to the arbor, especially if the arbor has a large step on it to add some surface area. A bit of heat releases it.
i've promised myself that after getting my degree in MechE, im gonna buy myself decent tools to make this kind of stuff. Can't wait to have the money and the rest of knowledge needed to pull off a DIY engine. Great video, thx for the inspiration.
"You might even say, it's almost good." This is my mood towards any creative endeavour I undertake. Not being particularly versed with construction or engineering though, I thoroughly enjoyed the approach and attitude to this, great stuff.
A 2-stroke exhaust isn't about pressure, it's about reflected waves. That's why they have to be tuned. Adjusting the length of the system is the primary method. Exhaust cross-sectional area matters, too.
You are on the right track. Here in the Netherlands we've got many mopeds. Many of us (me included) worked and maintaind our own mopeds including my friends with 2 strokes like aerox, speedfight 2 and so on. It was when we put on some performance exhausts like polini or yasuni r exausts those things had so much more power. Back preasure really is a thing with engines i assume.
@Turnipstalk Indeed yes, as his does. I just wanted to hopefully correct a misunderstanding that he has about the purpose of an exhaust on a 2-stroke engine. As you said, having a tuned exhaust system would improve his engine. It's a bit like a pulse-jet in a fashion. While I ordinarily wouldn't compare the two, the physics is related. It's about mass flow and reflecting pressure waves to push the gasses to where they need to be at the right time.
@@bryanpeeters2552 The tuned exhaust is what improved your engine performance, not an increased back-pressure. In fact, Ive seen some independent studies that dispute the claim that exhaust system back-pressure is helpful to an engine, be it 2 or 4-stroke. Your exhaust needs to do what it's name says and exhaust gasses as freely as possible. Back-pressure is disruptive to the function - However having a tuned system which can utilize the pressure waves of the exhaust cycle to push gasses to where they need to be should be goal of any performance exhaust.
This is extremely impressive. The fact you did this with no precision machinery whatsoever is crazy. Not even a drill press! The guy who built the wright brothers’ engines would be proud
@@nikkiofthevalley "Precision" is how anyone from 1825 would have described that lathe. You don't get how far even cheap chinese tools have come. Roller bearings in a lathe? They had to use plain split brass bearings with shims to control clearance. Roller bearings in an ENGINE? They used poured babbit metal that was hand scraped!
@@AndrewAnderson-h4d You said he used "no precision machinery". Precision is relative. The Wright brothers were already standing on the shoulders of giants who discovered the means for mass produced precision screws, pistons, and cylinders. The bearings in his tools are made with machines more precise than anyone could have imagined ~100 years ago. My point is that his tools are excellent, compared to what has been historically available. The bearings, pistons, and rings used in his engine are PRECISION parts.
yeah, these kinds of projects are really empowering. It really reduces the magic around us to being just a collection of concepts we all can understand. And really shows off how wide the "good enough" tolerance band is on things. He showed it early on with the 2 stroke expansion chamber thing!
as impressive as it is, he still had to order a carb, order gaskets and whatnot, and all that other stuff. Really puts into perspective how much work it must have taken people to invent the very first engines
Imagine being Charles Taylor and trying to build a very light but strong engine for the Wright brothers aircraft. He doesn't get enough credit in history, but his story is awesome.
2strokes can really be as simple or as complicated as you want to make them. From simple piston ports to reed valves to exhaust power valves to tuned expansion chambers.
I think, he should have at least made an expansion chamber. One of the dumbest i ever heared about 2 strokes is, that they need backpressure. 2 strokes don't need "backpressure", they need an exhaust pipe wich is able to get the exhaust pressure wave to resonate with the piston movement.
Or you can do what he did...and re-discover a Poppin' Johnny Hit & Miss design. Which technically is...well...why they used giant flywheels to store torque. Those dudes ran on alcohol or gasoline to heat up the cylinder, then you swapped them over to kerosene or diesel when the chamber & piston expanded so compression got high enough to run on it. Flame-lickers were like that. They only fired every 2 or 3 strokes, sometimes even every 5 to 6, because they depended on torque, not RPM's (being a max of like 350rpm, not the 3600 you are used to or higher, with no torque). That way, they could pull a house off a foundation, and only go 8mph. They also had a piston 50X the length and weight of his, and the crankshaft alone took overhead cranes to install in the REALLY big hit or miss motors (the ones the size of your house).
I wonder what sort of comparative trials he could do with different homemade 2 strokes. I’d advocate for rotary and reed valve designs based on Cox engines to be a good place to start. Also, it would be much better and easier to make them for nitro or diesel, or just straight methanol.
Dude actually went and made the 2 stroke. Was really fun to see it run. It's only a matter of time before you make something like a vtwin or something. I can see it
You've got a great voice , a zillion times better than the modern Tin brain versions. Secondly l'm an old Petrol head of 71 and I just loved your determination and honesty in tackling problems. Never say Die 😂. Being old and not much use for anymore physically I only have a bunch of forgotten dreams to inspire you . Even in your crude way my suggestion is to do an OPPOSING PISTON TWO STROKE next where you can play around with different CRANK TIMINGS. I suggest having INTAKE PORT on one side of sleeve and EXHAUST on the other side. It could even be DIESEL if you can achieve high enough compression . Okay that's NOT IMPOSSIBLE so it's up to you now. I'll be watching.
After the apocalypse I'm sure paying people to spend all day filing things would actually be a pretty good job given the conditions of the world. Just don't expect quick parts.
This is the best, and by far the MOST effective way to learn. Just get in there and do it. Projects like these are frustrating at times, but you learn so much that you can apply down the road when it comes to metal fab and machining. You're always gonna have the critics, but just chuckle and keep your head down and your powder dry!
I watch a lot of engineering videos and they always show a mostly flawless process, with people knowing expertly how to operate machines. You just nog giving a fuck and slap dashing something together is a breath of fresh air, and gives me hope that I can actually do something like this myself. Also your humor has me rolling. Subscribed.
I literally just got home from Home Depot and saw this video dropped! And I come with a tip! If you need lots of threaded rod and don't mind it being slightly bent and have to cut it, you can go to the electrical section and buy 10' of it for under $10
These videos are absolutely amazing. I love all the skills he's learnt and how almost nothing is bought pre-made. This is exactly the kind of stuff I would want to do if I had a workshop like that.
Great job! Older model airplane two stroke engines like the Brown Jr. and the GHQ had a baffle across the top of the piston to prevent the fresh charge from being pushed out of the exhaust before being ignited. It was biased toward the transfer port side and only about 4 mm high. Also, you can boost performance and scavenging by attaching 2 lengths of tubing to the exhaust, maybe 12 cm long one should telescope inside the other. K&S brass tubing sizes will do. While the engine is running slide on in and out until RPM peaks. The increase is usually quite pronounced.
I love it. This is what guys were doing 120 years ago. No global multi billion dollar companies stamping out a hundred thousand engines a day, but guys in garages experimenting, learning things through trial and error.
Exactly! We're sorely missing that today. The impact is has on society is huge. All of the earned wisdom, qualified mentorship, genuine innovation, inspiring role models etc. That's why I love working in the guitar-making world. We're all just figuring things out on our own in our garages, finding what works and what doesn't and learning from each others mistakes and successes.
remember that they also didnt have the last 150 years of experience to fall back upon... no flicking switches for instant light, and spinning chucks... light a lantern and start pumping that treadle... having to forge ones own cutters, harden them, grind them (more treadle action, or maybe a handle to spin?)... anything needing to be purchased... telegrams, letters, waiting, waiting, waiting... of course, with no televison, radio, or internet to distract... and then, despite it all, what we have here is really just "stuck in the rut" thinking... crank scavenged two stroke was the first ICE made... so we really havent progressed very far.. simply refined what our ancestors developed..
@@paradiselost9946 you whippersnappers with your new-fangled metal. Back in my day, we made things out of stone, like intended. I'd like to see them build a 2-stroke out of granite that runs on mutton tallow, that would be worth seeing
To answer the back pressure question, back pressure is a bad thing, but what people sometimes confuse with back pressure is pressure differential, this allows the high pressure exhaust to create momentum and draw the remaining exhaust gasses from the cylinder and draw more fresh air/fuel from the crank case. People confuse this with backpressure because it meana the higher pressure is maintained rather than just flowing out unobstructed. To sumarize, its not backpressure, its momentum and pressure differential.
@@AnonymousAnarchist2 yeah! they're really cool in the model airplane world. A counter piston you can use to adjust compression/timing! And not really more complicated than his current design, even maybe less complicated due to the lack of electrical ignition timing.
This is an excellent project. In my experience, nothing has helped me learn more about a topic than reinventing the proverbial wheel. We do this all the time in computer science. Luckily rewriting code and debugging is free and takes much less time. The same can't be said for mechanical and electrical engineers. Mad respect for you patience and courage to face potentially expensive failure.
I love how you manage to build a magnificent piece of machienery from trying to build a 3d printed engine to building a real functional 2 stroke engine you really learn from your long time of progress and strong patience and knowledge i hope you made a better one i really wanna see it running above the wheels
Braze or solder some ductile copper tube around it to make it liquid cooled! And use Loctite 680 retaining compound on the crank for the flywheel, and the rod bearing. Might help a lot!
I have worked on replacing this, that, and the other part on cars for 45 years, but never had occasion to build even a kit engine. This is another level altogether. Well done.
i’ve been absolutely loving these home made engines i haven’t found many who have made any. it would be cool to see you make a multiple cylinder engine like a 2,3 or a 4 cylinder inline and even cooler if it’s a 2 stroke. you should check out the detroit diesel 2 strokes. their 2 stroke does not care in the slightest about anything in the way it’s designed. it has a blower that pushes air into the cylinders, you could adapt one from an existing tool or something. this way the crank case can be separate from the cylinder and it eliminates smoke from burning your engine oil. they also used both exhaust valves and ports in different engines. it’s a really cool design and i’d like for someone to take a shot at it. you should also try making bushing bearings lubricated by and oil pump and oil galleries, you can even make them with just a drill. best thing to do is check out the oiling and cooling systems of automotive engines. it would also be really cool if you could someday evolve to trying out diesel. love this content.
You are just causally outputting enough smoke to be seen from space... Going to give the EPA a heart attack to see all their progress for the last 20 years negated by a single engine. On a more serious note I love it, keep up the good work.
The next time you use your hole cutter use a drill bit to drill a hole on the inner diameter of your hole saw. This insures that the saw won't lodge on the filings that are being created by cutting. This also reduces wear on the cutter itself and also reduces the time to cut. You can easely cut up to 2 cm with this method. (With cutting oil ofcourse)
2:59 Ok I can see two "problem areas" in your weld here, near the start, and the middle bit. Towards the end, I think you were moving slower, thus the "sunken" look of the weld there, versus the tall nature of the middle. CONSISTANCY I think is your main problem, rather than technique. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!
3:56 this might be the best bit you've ever put in a video Also, buddy, I hate to be the one to tell you this, but there's a reason roller bearings aren't typically used in crankshafts
@@fishy6320they aren't good. Ball bearings either. Both suffer from cage failures and are rpm limited because of centrifugal force pushing the rollers balls or needles together leading to either cage failure, seizing against each other (cageless) or pitting the ID of race until it eventually fails. Plain bearing is the way to go. The bigger problem is that the balance on this guys engine is AWFUL only one web which is maybe 25% of the counterweight mass needed. Vibes destroyed the bearings.
I'm pretty sure the thick smoke pouring out of the exhaust was the oil you poured into the crack case making it's way over the piston and combusting with the fuel. On the subject of cooling, other than making a whole new block, you could weld some cooling fins on the side of the cylinder. Sadly that might lead to warping of the inside of the cylinder so you might need to make a new piston and re-hone it. Other than that, incredibly fascinating video to watch.
Thanks! For the cooling I was actually thinking of brazing pieces of copper onto the side to create fins, as it would hopefully be a low enough temperature to not warp the bore out of round
@@thomaskletzl6493 heeyy yeah! those old hit and miss engines often contained a big water tank above the cylinder, no radiator. Was literally just a heat holding tank.
Thats really Impressing! Big Respect! I race some little 70ccm 2 Stroke Bikes and the Amount of Details it needs for a 2 Stroker to run perfect is huge. Outstanding what you did with just a bunch of tools and some steel pipes. Amazing 💪🏻
Back pressure is usually bad for an engine, as it causes resistance in air flow. You want an exhaust that helps in scavenging, which is when the exhaust pulses pull the air through the exhaust and help with air intake by taking more exhaust gasses out of the motor. I’m glad you figured out proper spark timing for the motor, I had commented on a past video about it and the air fuel ratio you were using. Amazing video as always, you made an amazing motor!!!!!
that is for 4 strokes, 2 strokes need backpressure for better compression and using the fuel that goes through the cylinder into the exhaust during the intake/exhaust stroke.
@@tktspeed1433 Wow, this is interesting! I always thought that you’d want to shove more air into the engine, rather than keep exhaust fumes in there. Couldn’t you “add” compression with forced induction?
@@switchpro3842 Yes you can absolutely turbocharge a two-stroke. However, since there are no valves, a lot of the pressure from that turbo will leak out the exhaust port, although the blades in the exhaust will also give you some back pressure.
@@rienkhoek4169 I’m aware of the concept of using forced induction in general, but my question is would adding forced induction increase compression ratio, or can that only be done with higher quality/compression rated pistons and rings. My thought is that if you were to supercharge a 2 stroke you could add compression and expel more exhaust fumes, allowing for better air:fuel and potentially more compression. IE: more power. IMO a good 2 stroke build probably consists of valves and a cam, with preferably a roots/twin screw supercharger. Mechanical valves should add to compression as opposed to static valves. And letting intake and exhaust valves open could allow the supercharger to push the air through.
@@switchpro3842 I think the issue isn't about getting the combusted gasses out, but about preventing the new air/fuel mixture from escaping. The ports that let the mixture in are below the exhaust port.
good job. i know you said you were no other youtuber whatever, but you've displayed an adequate understanding of concepts that make up like 60-70% of what would be on the entry engineering exam. i think you're pretty awesome when it comes to building this stuff
3:08 when I was in school for welding, we did a bunch of welding positions. Grab a welding book, learn what positions to practice, and run through that with metal you get from your local scrapyard (or for free if you can find it.)
Check out twostrokestuffing's video on how to tune a carb. You need to do more than just moving the needle, and the "mixture screw" is an air screw, and is only meant for fine tuning it so it'll idle smoother. Also, a pipe is unnecessary for that thing. You could get enough power to snap that crank in half with just porting and tuning the carb/ignition.
Agreed, mixture is far too rich it seems (even if the added oil makes saying with certainty difficult). Get a set of carburator jets so you can tune it properly :). Congrats though, very nice project
I drive these things daily, never owned a car and never will. I promise you, the pipe is important. Specially if there's any wind, or the motor is under load. That unspent fuel, or having extra oxygen pushed in, really alters the performance drastically. Better than a pipe, get an expansion chamber to really maximize it.
@@XiaolinDraconis Having something for an exhaust is basically a must, yes. But an expansion chamber is completely unnecessary for that thing. I'm guessing it's around 50cc. That crank looks like it wouldn't be too happy with anything over 5hp. I have a sachs MAHLE 6.25ps 50cc cylinder from the 70s in my garage, and it makes that power without an expansion chamber. It's got good low end torque too, meaning there's a lot more power hiding in it if the port timing was raised a bit. I daylied a vintage moped for 3 years, I have rebuilt probably 25-30 engines. They have all run perfectly fine without an expansion chamber. He needs to tune the carb and it'll run perfectly fine
@@XiaolinDraconis He built an engine from a piece of pipe and essentially other "scraps". You think not having a tuned exhaust is the major source of power loss?
@@shanerc I said that? No. Not having any exhaust is definitely screwing the mix, I would know I ride one, kills my ability to accelerate quickly and bogs out before it can top out.
This channel feels like it's ran by the most terrifying (in a good way) mechanic possible, smart enough to sound responsible and knowledgeable, just crazy enough to *checks notes* "create a potentially explosive combustion engine from what is basically scrap metal" subscribed instantly
13:56 I think you need a reed valve on the intake? Pressure escaping thru the intake instead of thru the exhaust? Exhaust filling the intake then is being pulled back into the cylinder making the air fuel wrong and stalling out because it’s way too “lean” I didn’t see a reed valve and this sounds like a 2stroke with bad reeds. Food for thought, super cool video man!
The piston acts as a valve as it slides over the intake port. Reed valves are used when the fuel is pulled in from below the piston. "sub piston induction" vs piston port induction.
Watching you're videos for a while and as an former mechanic and now mechanical engineer I have to say that you impress me with this build. Nice work and keep on with good stuff like this 👍
Give this guy some love. He is from my home town. Can't wait to see what this channel brings in the future. Thank you Camden for adding to my feed with some great content!!
Love your videos, and this one is INCREDIBLE! Honestly, though, the hole saw part set off my spidey sense something fierce. Those hole saws can grab like a mother when there's any kind of lateral movement (especially as you just break through one edge of the material), and those high torque low rpm mixing drills don't just stop. I was just thrown by one and nearly broke my thumb and index finger doing exactly what you did. The drill spun down after throwing me and ripped it's own power cord out of the handle. I'm just a tinkerer, but I've found a few things that might help you on similar builds. I'm working on a 5.5" bore 2 cylinder flat steam engine, and I've found that it's just easier to buy pistons and connecting rods together, then use HONED HYDRAULIC TUBING for the cylinder. It's dimensionally accurate, and all you have to do is pick a piston that matches. I'm avoiding welding on the tubing or head by putting a groove in the cylinder cap using a TEPANNING TOOL (hole saws are trepanning tools, but in a lathe it cuts on a single point instead of 30 points), then dropping an o-ring into the groove. Once the groove is in to fit over the end of the tubing, an oversized cylinder cap can be bolted down with threaded rod right into the crankcase. That clamps the whole cylinder. As far as using the Milwaukee hole saw, spring for the whole set! I love Milwaukee's hole dozers. If you give the metal a quick kiss from the cutter, you can then drill a hole on the tool's path that will evacuate chips, and it will cut many times faster.
your supposed to use lubrication when drilling metel. thats why the hole dozer smoked out. lived and learned this one. lubrication isnt always needed but its always helpful
No. Most 2 strokes didn't get reeds until the late 70's. He needed some oil... the thing was running with zero oil, doesn't help much And also only one crank web, webs are supposed to be 50% of the rotating mass being the conrod and piston. Probably why the bearing exploded after 2 mins of running time
as someone that's made a few model engines myself, I thought this was going to be a hack job but I quickly changed my mind, I'm very impressed! You've done some things I hadn't thought of, and actually got a runner out of it! And you did it with about the same tools I got started with too. This is a hard thing to do and you pulled it off! I'm going to use the weld on flange idea on my next engine I think, good idea! Tip for that bearing falling out: Green bearing retainer loctite. Perfect for not quite interference enough fits. Got a sub from me! What's next? you can't just build one engine!
To prolong life, you might want to put a gear-driven oil pump that points at the rotating assembly and inject two-stroke ( you were burning standard motor oil and that's why it was so bad), as well as some heat fins on the side of the cylinder walls with a fan-style flywheel and shroud the cylender if you plan to keep it a stationary engine. I have build many a classic piaggio's and this is my advice. This was super fun to watch! cheers.
If you don't mind me suggesting, from various injuries sustaining while used hole drill bits and forstner bits, A pillar drill/drill press is much safer, easier to use and precise that using a handheld drill
They need some backpressure to run, but not much. It's just that they benefit from exhaust resonances much more than 4 strokes so in order to get the absolute best performance you have to take it to it's absolute extreme. You optimize it for a specific RPM (same as a 4 stroke, but not really, but still kind of the same thing) and the backpressure will help draw more air out and thus into the combustion chamber at that RPM. 4 strokes use the same trickery on intakes too, which is why variable length manifolds and things like the weird ITB setup with extra valves to change resonance to optimize for different RPM on most new Porsches, but that has almost no erffect on 2 strokes. On 4 strokes that can give you as much as 15-20% more air than you'd otherwise get from just an open port or "whatever it holds tha MAP and MAF" manifold. Also just get a larger pipe to fit around the cylinder and run a tiny electric water pump that pumps water through that jacket. Basically how an open deck engine cools itself, just far more half-assed.
Just to note; when you are "touching" outer diameter of the component with your micrometer. Please, just one click. Been in machining for a decade; you can actually get the "touch" before the click to get true reading. Love your content bro. Based asf.
I'm professionally a toolmaker, but got petrol running through my veins (100% gearhead) and this is one of the most impressive builds i've seen for 2 decades. I'm being honest, this truly handmade engine and "well... i'll just do my best and see" approach is both amazing and refreshing. Maybe it was do to vibrations, but i saw that rpm gauge hit 10K! Simply amazing!
bullshit
@@noodles7011you don't need to inform us about what you just dropped. We were perfectly fine not knowing.
@@noodles7011 the comment section isn't your food journal
Being a tool maker just makes you a better gear head
@@AfterWorkRipper becoming a cyborg makes you a master gearhead
This guy teaches us that anyone can make your own engines. The only problem is that you gotta have the smarts and the correct tools. So can’t wait to see more
ONSHAPE IS SCAM ALERT!
You dont need expensive tools to make something cool. Ive made a telescope mirror with nothing more than rocks and 'dirt' that has its accuracy measured in millionths of an inch using a tool made out of a copper pipe, palletwood, a dull boxcutter blade, a couple of scews and a flashlight bulb
@@UpcomingJedi Calm down Macguyver!
& two months of trying.
A decent lathe, welder and some tools can get you far.
I have a lot of experience with stroking but building an engine out of it? Ingenious. I never thought I could power engines with my stroking.
Naw
I have a lot of experience with stroking as well
This man's humour is ingenious as his strokes
wtf are you talking about
@@PnwPryo dont tell him
This is really impressive. I have been building race engines and doing machine work for 30+ years. This is one of the coolest things I’ve seen in a while. A homemade 2 cycle engine with that limited equipment. Two thumbs up sir!
im super impressed, and humble about all of it too. the whole time im like "NO FKIN WAY"
I love it how he has just dropped the whole "3d printed part"
ONSHAPE IS SCAM ALERT!
Tbh that's a good use for 3d printing. You use it to get the fundamentals right and then you move on 😅
@@flarenator yea and it like the second he dropped it, he made an engine that actually worked
Metal 3d printing?
Ok?
Damn, that's really impressive. This brings me back in time.
Back in the day when we were 15 or 16 and working on our 50cc scooters the stock carbs usually had 12mm. For easy tuning we used 17.5mm dell'ortos with decently sized airfilters and nozzles and most importantly proper exhausts. You would be surpirsed about how an exhaust completely changes the running characteristics and power output on 2 strokes. It's almost tike a turbocharger on 4 strokes. Back pressure has a lot to do with it. And the way gases flow through it, that's why tuning exhausts tend to be bow shaped. And not to forget they take away the heat from the cylinder. WIthout one the engine runs like crap and tends to overheat. And fuel mixture was usually 50:1 so you don't get smoked to death and the engine wont choke on soot.
When you combine a proper carb, intake and exhaust with a sport clutch and variator your 50km/h scooter was ready for 90km/h, sometimes much faster depending on the engine, how it was geared and what else was done to it. Adding fuel chanels between crankshaft and cylinder or making them larger and the exhaust channels larger also helps. Next step would be 70, 80 or even 90cc. It's unbelievable how much power you can get out of those tiny engines and how fast the accelerate. It's like riding a cannon ball, you just cant keep the front wheel on the ground.
All this was highly illegal in germany, but it was easy to loose the cops because scooters can go just about anywhere. Just bend up the license plate and be gone. We felt like ghost rider on our Aprilia SR50's, Peugeot Speedfight 2's, Yamaha Aerox's and Piaggio Zip's. Everyone had a "Scooter tuning is not a crime" sticker. Show's that you don't need expensive cars to have fun with tuning something.
just got a zip 50 and this sounds like a lot of fun
@@radicaledward4717 You can turn that little thing into a rocket with like 500€. Even just taking out the speed limiters would probably get you up to 70 km/h (I don't know the english word, we call it Drossel in german) There should be a metal ring that limits your max speed in the variator. You can just take that out in a matter of minutes. And maybe there are blind tubes that are welded to the manifold of the exhaust to reduce engine power. You can cut that off and weld the hole shut, so the exhaust gasses can flow freely. Sometimes there also is a metal piece inside the manifold to limit the diameter. Take that out as well. Then your scooter is not limited anymore and goes as fast as the engine can. It's even better for the engine because it can finally work in it's default condition. Piaggio engines are great for tuning and very durable. I had one in my Aprilia SR50R Factory almost 20 years ago. That thing made about 140 km/h. You couldn't go full throttle under 70 km/h or the front wheel would rise up.
@@DLT-po6to the drossel you speak about is called a govenor in english mon ami
@@syedmahdy7011 Thanks, mein Lieber.
How TF you get a gas motor to run at 50:1 AFR, my diesel idles at that AFR but on a gas motor...idk man
the reverse beamng clip is gold
ONSHAPE IS SCAM ALERT!
Actually cracked up when I seen that 😂
its even funnier when u realize he used a manual shifter on the automatic d15 lol
Beamng is gold
@@164BiloKytes I have over 1.5k hrs and will never stop
4:40 That "little tool" you made is called an arbor, for anyone wondering.
Good thinking for a relative beginner, you're improving rapidly and picking up all sorts of tricks! Much better looking welds these days, too.
There really is no better way to learn this shit than being pissed off in the shop for hours at a time.
and at that scale, sometimes you can get away with super gluing the part to the arbor, especially if the arbor has a large step on it to add some surface area. A bit of heat releases it.
@@VoidedWarrantyheated super glue releases cyanide tho 😮
i've promised myself that after getting my degree in MechE, im gonna buy myself decent tools to make this kind of stuff.
Can't wait to have the money and the rest of knowledge needed to pull off a DIY engine.
Great video, thx for the inspiration.
"You might even say, it's almost good." This is my mood towards any creative endeavour I undertake. Not being particularly versed with construction or engineering though, I thoroughly enjoyed the approach and attitude to this, great stuff.
A 2-stroke exhaust isn't about pressure, it's about reflected waves. That's why they have to be tuned. Adjusting the length of the system is the primary method. Exhaust cross-sectional area matters, too.
They are so complex in a way. Impressive.
You are on the right track. Here in the Netherlands we've got many mopeds. Many of us (me included) worked and maintaind our own mopeds including my friends with 2 strokes like aerox, speedfight 2 and so on. It was when we put on some performance exhausts like polini or yasuni r exausts those things had so much more power. Back preasure really is a thing with engines i assume.
Hopefully he read that. The most correct comment I think I've ever seen on a subject few people still know about today
@Turnipstalk Indeed yes, as his does. I just wanted to hopefully correct a misunderstanding that he has about the purpose of an exhaust on a 2-stroke engine. As you said, having a tuned exhaust system would improve his engine.
It's a bit like a pulse-jet in a fashion. While I ordinarily wouldn't compare the two, the physics is related. It's about mass flow and reflecting pressure waves to push the gasses to where they need to be at the right time.
@@bryanpeeters2552 The tuned exhaust is what improved your engine performance, not an increased back-pressure. In fact, Ive seen some independent studies that dispute the claim that exhaust system back-pressure is helpful to an engine, be it 2 or 4-stroke.
Your exhaust needs to do what it's name says and exhaust gasses as freely as possible. Back-pressure is disruptive to the function - However having a tuned system which can utilize the pressure waves of the exhaust cycle to push gasses to where they need to be should be goal of any performance exhaust.
This is extremely impressive. The fact you did this with no precision machinery whatsoever is crazy. Not even a drill press! The guy who built the wright brothers’ engines would be proud
brother are you just gonna ignore his lathe a precision machine
@@isaiahrosales7070"precision" is not how I would describe that lathe
@@nikkiofthevalley "Precision" is how anyone from 1825 would have described that lathe. You don't get how far even cheap chinese tools have come. Roller bearings in a lathe? They had to use plain split brass bearings with shims to control clearance. Roller bearings in an ENGINE? They used poured babbit metal that was hand scraped!
@@georgeblack589what does the 1800s have to do with this? I think they would be impressed if I showed them a lightbulb
@@AndrewAnderson-h4d You said he used "no precision machinery". Precision is relative. The Wright brothers were already standing on the shoulders of giants who discovered the means for mass produced precision screws, pistons, and cylinders.
The bearings in his tools are made with machines more precise than anyone could have imagined ~100 years ago. My point is that his tools are excellent, compared to what has been historically available. The bearings, pistons, and rings used in his engine are PRECISION parts.
With the way you’re going you’ll cure cancer with a carburetor, bad welds and a 3D printer😂
With the ventilation in that garage i'd say he's closer to inventing cancer itself
well the cure comes with a nice bed 6 feet bellow grass.
he's gonna need to lol
A carburetor a day keeps the fortune away
@@LadZeroUltra why does nobody believe in ppe :,(
Welding with no gloves and a T-shirt is cheaper and easier than a damn tanning booth.
This video was crazy to watch as someone that does welding for work lmfao
We all find out the first time.
heh the worst sunburn I ever got was 250A TIG all day
You seem like someone who would enjoy Explosions & Fire.
Chemicals. Minimal safety precautions. Australian. A dangerous combo.
Presuming no mask underneath and no ventilation by looks of things unless I missed it 🤔
The sound of the engine running instantly brought back memories of my two stroke motorcycle. Loved that thing.
I love the idea of making a well known machines all by yourself. At home. With materials from home depot. The feeling of independence is CRAZY.
yeah, these kinds of projects are really empowering. It really reduces the magic around us to being just a collection of concepts we all can understand. And really shows off how wide the "good enough" tolerance band is on things. He showed it early on with the 2 stroke expansion chamber thing!
as impressive as it is, he still had to order a carb, order gaskets and whatnot, and all that other stuff. Really puts into perspective how much work it must have taken people to invent the very first engines
Independent except from home Depot credit card interest.
> not reading the books just to stumble over everything he knows to make an engine from scratch at 2AM
> Running Mint.
This guy has a type.
>Running Mint
stop drilling you already struck oil
was he running mint? I didn't even notice :§ *swoons*
i saw the familiar battery icon
Mint is the best version of linux
When in the video? 6:37 looks like windows
Imagine being Charles Taylor and trying to build a very light but strong engine for the Wright brothers aircraft. He doesn't get enough credit in history, but his story is awesome.
2strokes can really be as simple or as complicated as you want to make them. From simple piston ports to reed valves to exhaust power valves to tuned expansion chambers.
i would argue straight piping is detrimental fundamentally
I think, he should have at least made an expansion chamber. One of the dumbest i ever heared about 2 strokes is, that they need backpressure.
2 strokes don't need "backpressure", they need an exhaust pipe wich is able to get the exhaust pressure wave to resonate with the piston movement.
there’s some good software online for getting the dimensions for a pipe, the hard part is making one without a slip roller lol
Or you can do what he did...and re-discover a Poppin' Johnny Hit & Miss design. Which technically is...well...why they used giant flywheels to store torque. Those dudes ran on alcohol or gasoline to heat up the cylinder, then you swapped them over to kerosene or diesel when the chamber & piston expanded so compression got high enough to run on it. Flame-lickers were like that. They only fired every 2 or 3 strokes, sometimes even every 5 to 6, because they depended on torque, not RPM's (being a max of like 350rpm, not the 3600 you are used to or higher, with no torque). That way, they could pull a house off a foundation, and only go 8mph.
They also had a piston 50X the length and weight of his, and the crankshaft alone took overhead cranes to install in the REALLY big hit or miss motors (the ones the size of your house).
I wonder what sort of comparative trials he could do with different homemade 2 strokes. I’d advocate for rotary and reed valve designs based on Cox engines to be a good place to start. Also, it would be much better and easier to make them for nitro or diesel, or just straight methanol.
Dude actually went and made the 2 stroke.
Was really fun to see it run. It's only a matter of time before you make something like a vtwin or something. I can see it
You've got a great voice , a zillion times better than the modern Tin brain versions.
Secondly l'm an old Petrol head of 71 and I just loved your determination and honesty in tackling problems.
Never say Die 😂.
Being old and not much use for anymore physically I only have a bunch of forgotten dreams to inspire you .
Even in your crude way my suggestion is to do an OPPOSING PISTON TWO STROKE next where you can play around with different CRANK TIMINGS.
I suggest having INTAKE PORT on one side of sleeve and EXHAUST on the other side.
It could even be DIESEL if you can achieve high enough compression .
Okay that's NOT IMPOSSIBLE so it's up to you now.
I'll be watching.
Seeing the thing finally just explode into life was so satisfying after all the other projects running literally off starter fluid 😭😭
Thanks for making. Some guy in 2100 finding this on a datahoarders harddrive will really appreciate this, especially after the world has ended!
Yea but people were doing this a hundred years ago…
Without a electric welder
@@fastinradfordableThey were using industrial equipment the size of a living room though.
Like the old mad max fan thread where people said in a real post apocalypse, people will be running shitbox two strokes, not V8 engines.
@@fastinradfordable the whole process is made much easier when you cast things instead of just welding it together
After the apocalypse I'm sure paying people to spend all day filing things would actually be a pretty good job given the conditions of the world. Just don't expect quick parts.
Would love to see the evolution of this, with some cooling etc. added!
It would also be amazing in something like an RC boat
This is the best, and by far the MOST effective way to learn. Just get in there and do it. Projects like these are frustrating at times, but you learn so much that you can apply down the road when it comes to metal fab and machining. You're always gonna have the critics, but just chuckle and keep your head down and your powder dry!
I watch a lot of engineering videos and they always show a mostly flawless process, with people knowing expertly how to operate machines.
You just nog giving a fuck and slap dashing something together is a breath of fresh air, and gives me hope that I can actually do something like this myself.
Also your humor has me rolling. Subscribed.
Thanks dude :)
Im a welder and does not care about your welds, i am just impressed by the rest of your work. 👍
Legit smiled when you had that thing running wide open. The fly wheel yeeting off in to space was a nice bonus! Good job man!
7:12 he really snuck in bad apple into a sponsored segment
Bro looked at Bad Apple! and thought "3D".
Was looking for this comment
Legendary
Only know Bad Apple from my wife, I came to the internet too early for it, but she was peak XD. It's currently her screen saver.
I rewatched this vid for the 3rd time and in that sponsored segment i realised it was bad apple
Bro literally built a running engine from nothing be raw metal itself and his tools. Thats wild! 👏🏻
I literally just got home from Home Depot and saw this video dropped! And I come with a tip! If you need lots of threaded rod and don't mind it being slightly bent and have to cut it, you can go to the electrical section and buy 10' of it for under $10
These videos are absolutely amazing. I love all the skills he's learnt and how almost nothing is bought pre-made. This is exactly the kind of stuff I would want to do if I had a workshop like that.
Great job! Older model airplane two stroke engines like the Brown Jr. and the GHQ had a baffle across the top of the piston
to prevent the fresh charge from being pushed out of the exhaust before being ignited. It was biased toward the transfer port side and only about 4 mm high. Also, you can boost performance and scavenging by attaching 2 lengths of tubing to the exhaust, maybe 12 cm long one should telescope inside the other. K&S brass tubing sizes will do. While the engine is running slide on in and out until RPM peaks. The increase is usually quite pronounced.
I love it. This is what guys were doing 120 years ago. No global multi billion dollar companies stamping out a hundred thousand engines a day, but guys in garages experimenting, learning things through trial and error.
Exactly! We're sorely missing that today. The impact is has on society is huge. All of the earned wisdom, qualified mentorship, genuine innovation, inspiring role models etc. That's why I love working in the guitar-making world. We're all just figuring things out on our own in our garages, finding what works and what doesn't and learning from each others mistakes and successes.
remember that they also didnt have the last 150 years of experience to fall back upon...
no flicking switches for instant light, and spinning chucks... light a lantern and start pumping that treadle...
having to forge ones own cutters, harden them, grind them (more treadle action, or maybe a handle to spin?)...
anything needing to be purchased... telegrams, letters, waiting, waiting, waiting...
of course, with no televison, radio, or internet to distract...
and then, despite it all, what we have here is really just "stuck in the rut" thinking... crank scavenged two stroke was the first ICE made... so we really havent progressed very far.. simply refined what our ancestors developed..
@@paradiselost9946 you whippersnappers with your new-fangled metal. Back in my day, we made things out of stone, like intended. I'd like to see them build a 2-stroke out of granite that runs on mutton tallow, that would be worth seeing
@@samcooper1761 pffft. stone. timber crumbles stone and takes root in its flaws!
some good aussie hardwood would be up to teh task ;)
@@paradiselost9946also consider they didnt have software to 3d model before metal working
I don't know why, but "he went to bed" and "he's back" got me.
Das cuz we all broke something and bed was the only thing closest to sanity! XD It's relatable and I too laughed sir!
To answer the back pressure question, back pressure is a bad thing, but what people sometimes confuse with back pressure is pressure differential, this allows the high pressure exhaust to create momentum and draw the remaining exhaust gasses from the cylinder and draw more fresh air/fuel from the crank case. People confuse this with backpressure because it meana the higher pressure is maintained rather than just flowing out unobstructed.
To sumarize, its not backpressure, its momentum and pressure differential.
Now he needs to make a working V2 (4-Stroke) or a diesel engine
4 stroke with VCR of course
... naw, 2 stroke diesel.
@@AnonymousAnarchist2 that will be pain. Sounds gr8
@@AnonymousAnarchist2 yeah! they're really cool in the model airplane world. A counter piston you can use to adjust compression/timing! And not really more complicated than his current design, even maybe less complicated due to the lack of electrical ignition timing.
i want you to add an entire (small) motorcycle frame around it, also made out of hardware store parts
Like a kiddie pit bike?
@@sargera1 probably.
This is an excellent project. In my experience, nothing has helped me learn more about a topic than reinventing the proverbial wheel. We do this all the time in computer science. Luckily rewriting code and debugging is free and takes much less time. The same can't be said for mechanical and electrical engineers. Mad respect for you patience and courage to face potentially expensive failure.
from 86.1K or 89.1K subscribers to now 91.8K is truly something man. In under 2 days is even more crazy
95.6k now. This channel deserves this :D
@@alexrusselldev Because of this video i think he's gonna get to 100K
96.6k as of now
@@net90net14 it just keeps on increasing lol
Ishowspeed got over 100k in 1 day 😹😹
I love how you manage to build a magnificent piece of machienery from trying to build a 3d printed engine to building a real functional 2 stroke engine you really learn from your long time of progress and strong patience and knowledge i hope you made a better one i really wanna see it running above the wheels
what an amazing build! I'm saving this video for the apocalypse!
Braze or solder some ductile copper tube around it to make it liquid cooled! And use Loctite 680 retaining compound on the crank for the flywheel, and the rod bearing. Might help a lot!
That would work for cooling.
I have worked on replacing this, that, and the other part on cars for 45 years,
but never had occasion to build even a kit engine. This is another level altogether.
Well done.
1:37 bro that music gave nostalgia
I swear every minecraft channel used it back in like 2012
As a small engine mechanic, I’m thoroughly impressed
Now you know firsthand some of the struggles of the first inventors of gasoline engines. You persevered and got something to work. 👍
this makes you appreciate the modern complex IC engines, so much combined engineering went into making them
i’ve been absolutely loving these home made engines i haven’t found many who have made any. it would be cool to see you make a multiple cylinder engine like a 2,3 or a 4 cylinder inline and even cooler if it’s a 2 stroke. you should check out the detroit diesel 2 strokes. their 2 stroke does not care in the slightest about anything in the way it’s designed. it has a blower that pushes air into the cylinders, you could adapt one from an existing tool or something. this way the crank case can be separate from the cylinder and it eliminates smoke from burning your engine oil. they also used both exhaust valves and ports in different engines. it’s a really cool design and i’d like for someone to take a shot at it. you should also try making bushing bearings lubricated by and oil pump and oil galleries, you can even make them with just a drill. best thing to do is check out the oiling and cooling systems of automotive engines. it would also be really cool if you could someday evolve to trying out diesel. love this content.
did anybody notice at 18:10 the smoke ring that it shot out!?!? thats awsome!
I did
You are just causally outputting enough smoke to be seen from space... Going to give the EPA a heart attack to see all their progress for the last 20 years negated by a single engine.
On a more serious note I love it, keep up the good work.
The next time you use your hole cutter use a drill bit to drill a hole on the inner diameter of your hole saw. This insures that the saw won't lodge on the filings that are being created by cutting. This also reduces wear on the cutter itself and also reduces the time to cut. You can easely cut up to 2 cm with this method. (With cutting oil ofcourse)
this tip blew my mind in how obvious it is but how ive never thought of that before!
2:59 Ok I can see two "problem areas" in your weld here, near the start, and the middle bit. Towards the end, I think you were moving slower, thus the "sunken" look of the weld there, versus the tall nature of the middle. CONSISTANCY I think is your main problem, rather than technique. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!
Halfway through that exhaust port bro was like "😬 oops, better put that back." And REPLACED THE STEEL LIKE A REVERSE ERASER
3:56 this might be the best bit you've ever put in a video
Also, buddy, I hate to be the one to tell you this, but there's a reason roller bearings aren't typically used in crankshafts
Rollerbearings are very commonly used in crankshafts of 2 strokes
@@fishy6320they aren't good. Ball bearings either.
Both suffer from cage failures and are rpm limited because of centrifugal force pushing the rollers balls or needles together leading to either cage failure, seizing against each other (cageless) or pitting the ID of race until it eventually fails.
Plain bearing is the way to go.
The bigger problem is that the balance on this guys engine is AWFUL only one web which is maybe 25% of the counterweight mass needed.
Vibes destroyed the bearings.
I'm pretty sure the thick smoke pouring out of the exhaust was the oil you poured into the crack case making it's way over the piston and combusting with the fuel.
On the subject of cooling, other than making a whole new block, you could weld some cooling fins on the side of the cylinder.
Sadly that might lead to warping of the inside of the cylinder so you might need to make a new piston and re-hone it.
Other than that, incredibly fascinating video to watch.
Thanks! For the cooling I was actually thinking of brazing pieces of copper onto the side to create fins, as it would hopefully be a low enough temperature to not warp the bore out of round
@@CamdenBowen Could also make a bolt-on sleeve for the cylinder with the fins, and thermal paste in between to ensure thermal conductivity.
@@CamdenBoweni dont know how long you want to run it but when its not too long a small box with water and ice should be enough?
@@thomaskletzl6493 heeyy yeah! those old hit and miss engines often contained a big water tank above the cylinder, no radiator. Was literally just a heat holding tank.
Thats really Impressing! Big Respect! I race some little 70ccm 2 Stroke Bikes and the Amount of Details it needs for a 2 Stroker to run perfect is huge. Outstanding what you did with just a bunch of tools and some steel pipes. Amazing 💪🏻
The "kind" and "supportive" moment really had me laughing. Well done. People know to much from a viewers stance
Back pressure is usually bad for an engine, as it causes resistance in air flow.
You want an exhaust that helps in scavenging, which is when the exhaust pulses pull the air through the exhaust and help with air intake by taking more exhaust gasses out of the motor.
I’m glad you figured out proper spark timing for the motor, I had commented on a past video about it and the air fuel ratio you were using.
Amazing video as always, you made an amazing motor!!!!!
that is for 4 strokes, 2 strokes need backpressure for better compression and using the fuel that goes through the cylinder into the exhaust during the intake/exhaust stroke.
@@tktspeed1433 Wow, this is interesting!
I always thought that you’d want to shove more air into the engine, rather than keep exhaust fumes in there.
Couldn’t you “add” compression with forced induction?
@@switchpro3842 Yes you can absolutely turbocharge a two-stroke. However, since there are no valves, a lot of the pressure from that turbo will leak out the exhaust port, although the blades in the exhaust will also give you some back pressure.
@@rienkhoek4169 I’m aware of the concept of using forced induction in general, but my question is would adding forced induction increase compression ratio, or can that only be done with higher quality/compression rated pistons and rings.
My thought is that if you were to supercharge a 2 stroke you could add compression and expel more exhaust fumes, allowing for better air:fuel and potentially more compression. IE: more power.
IMO a good 2 stroke build probably consists of valves and a cam, with preferably a roots/twin screw supercharger. Mechanical valves should add to compression as opposed to static valves. And letting intake and exhaust valves open could allow the supercharger to push the air through.
@@switchpro3842 I think the issue isn't about getting the combusted gasses out, but about preventing the new air/fuel mixture from escaping. The ports that let the mixture in are below the exhaust port.
good job. i know you said you were no other youtuber whatever, but you've displayed an adequate understanding of concepts that make up like 60-70% of what would be on the entry engineering exam. i think you're pretty awesome when it comes to building this stuff
Put some glove when you weld, dude. Those UV rays are gnarly and you don't want skin cancer on your hands in 25 years.
Let's be real here... with the way the world is going, we don't have 25 years...
@@bigchooch4434 I don't think we have 25 weeks.
@@vandeputalexandre244 it builds the immune system
I don't think it really matters. Everything you eat or drink will cause cancer.
Completely useless for someone who isn't welding all day every day.
3:08 when I was in school for welding, we did a bunch of welding positions. Grab a welding book, learn what positions to practice, and run through that with metal you get from your local scrapyard (or for free if you can find it.)
Great video, great concept, some genuinely original jokes and I really wanna see how this progresses, sir you have earned my subscription!
Check out twostrokestuffing's video on how to tune a carb. You need to do more than just moving the needle, and the "mixture screw" is an air screw, and is only meant for fine tuning it so it'll idle smoother.
Also, a pipe is unnecessary for that thing. You could get enough power to snap that crank in half with just porting and tuning the carb/ignition.
Agreed, mixture is far too rich it seems (even if the added oil makes saying with certainty difficult). Get a set of carburator jets so you can tune it properly :). Congrats though, very nice project
I drive these things daily, never owned a car and never will. I promise you, the pipe is important. Specially if there's any wind, or the motor is under load. That unspent fuel, or having extra oxygen pushed in, really alters the performance drastically. Better than a pipe, get an expansion chamber to really maximize it.
@@XiaolinDraconis Having something for an exhaust is basically a must, yes. But an expansion chamber is completely unnecessary for that thing. I'm guessing it's around 50cc. That crank looks like it wouldn't be too happy with anything over 5hp. I have a sachs MAHLE 6.25ps 50cc cylinder from the 70s in my garage, and it makes that power without an expansion chamber. It's got good low end torque too, meaning there's a lot more power hiding in it if the port timing was raised a bit.
I daylied a vintage moped for 3 years, I have rebuilt probably 25-30 engines. They have all run perfectly fine without an expansion chamber. He needs to tune the carb and it'll run perfectly fine
@@XiaolinDraconis He built an engine from a piece of pipe and essentially other "scraps". You think not having a tuned exhaust is the major source of power loss?
@@shanerc I said that? No. Not having any exhaust is definitely screwing the mix, I would know I ride one, kills my ability to accelerate quickly and bogs out before it can top out.
Chaos is inherent in all compounded things. Strive on with diligence.
This is what youtube was made for. Love it
New video from Camden! I left another video to watch this
would love to see you make an exhaust for it and test how much power it is making
This channel feels like it's ran by the most terrifying (in a good way) mechanic possible, smart enough to sound responsible and knowledgeable, just crazy enough to *checks notes* "create a potentially explosive combustion engine from what is basically scrap metal" subscribed instantly
9:40 bro busted out the galvinized square steel
Were the screws borrowed from aunt too?
7:48 Linux user spotted
3:54 - Also BeamNG player spotted
@@Sithhy best driving sim out there
Imo
Why I also notice that
Cinnamon desktop?
@@garrettcrescitell9i994 yes
13:56 I think you need a reed valve on the intake? Pressure escaping thru the intake instead of thru the exhaust? Exhaust filling the intake then is being pulled back into the cylinder making the air fuel wrong and stalling out because it’s way too “lean” I didn’t see a reed valve and this sounds like a 2stroke with bad reeds. Food for thought, super cool video man!
The piston acts as a valve as it slides over the intake port. Reed valves are used when the fuel is pulled in from below the piston. "sub piston induction" vs piston port induction.
4:20 next time use a slower speed and a lot of lubricant.
Good advise for the young fellas out there, your ladies will appreciate this.
Watching you're videos for a while and as an former mechanic and now mechanical engineer I have to say that you impress me with this build. Nice work and keep on with good stuff like this 👍
DRIVING INGAME AND LOOKING BACK IRL LMFAOOO
the fact that you pointed it out negates like -50 funny points
@@pizo_225 the fact that you pointed out that it wasn't funny because the OP commented on it, -50 funny points.
Hahaha 🤣
@@indeedinteresting2156 oh yeah let me just spruce up the mood with “LMFAO OH MY GOODNESS THING EVERYONE SAW”
I found this extra funny cause when my dad tried a driving sim HE DID THE SAME THING
Give this guy some love. He is from my home town. Can't wait to see what this channel brings in the future.
Thank you Camden for adding to my feed with some great content!!
Where tho? Tell us from wher he is!
@jammehrmann1871 if he wants to comment that he is more than welcome too
@@1bad82squaregood man
I am impressed! You are learning a huge amount !! Using a lathe is a pretty steep learning curve. Welding is also a learned skill.
15:00 it's 4 stroke according to the discription
11:53 sabaton and history fans will understand
Baptized in fire 40:1
So silent before the storm, awaiting command
a few has been chosen to stand
Love your videos, and this one is INCREDIBLE! Honestly, though, the hole saw part set off my spidey sense something fierce. Those hole saws can grab like a mother when there's any kind of lateral movement (especially as you just break through one edge of the material), and those high torque low rpm mixing drills don't just stop. I was just thrown by one and nearly broke my thumb and index finger doing exactly what you did. The drill spun down after throwing me and ripped it's own power cord out of the handle.
I'm just a tinkerer, but I've found a few things that might help you on similar builds. I'm working on a 5.5" bore 2 cylinder flat steam engine, and I've found that it's just easier to buy pistons and connecting rods together, then use HONED HYDRAULIC TUBING for the cylinder. It's dimensionally accurate, and all you have to do is pick a piston that matches. I'm avoiding welding on the tubing or head by putting a groove in the cylinder cap using a TEPANNING TOOL (hole saws are trepanning tools, but in a lathe it cuts on a single point instead of 30 points), then dropping an o-ring into the groove. Once the groove is in to fit over the end of the tubing, an oversized cylinder cap can be bolted down with threaded rod right into the crankcase. That clamps the whole cylinder.
As far as using the Milwaukee hole saw, spring for the whole set! I love Milwaukee's hole dozers. If you give the metal a quick kiss from the cutter, you can then drill a hole on the tool's path that will evacuate chips, and it will cut many times faster.
17:37 "it came... and so did I"
Aw yeah! This sunday just got better!
your supposed to use lubrication when drilling metel. thats why the hole dozer smoked out. lived and learned this one. lubrication isnt always needed but its always helpful
@@petermirabella4683 I used plenty of oil lol, you can see the chips sticking to the side
He's becoming the 'Murican Integza!
He's already much better, as this engine actually creates some reasonable power, and it's not some gimmick
You also need a readvalve on the inlet Port to prevent back pressure going back to the carburater
Hes using a piston port instead of reedvalves or rotary valves even tho those would be better
It's a piston port setup, you don't need a reed
No. Most 2 strokes didn't get reeds until the late 70's.
He needed some oil... the thing was running with zero oil, doesn't help much
And also only one crank web, webs are supposed to be 50% of the rotating mass being the conrod and piston.
Probably why the bearing exploded after 2 mins of running time
as someone that's made a few model engines myself, I thought this was going to be a hack job but I quickly changed my mind, I'm very impressed! You've done some things I hadn't thought of, and actually got a runner out of it! And you did it with about the same tools I got started with too. This is a hard thing to do and you pulled it off! I'm going to use the weld on flange idea on my next engine I think, good idea!
Tip for that bearing falling out: Green bearing retainer loctite. Perfect for not quite interference enough fits. Got a sub from me! What's next? you can't just build one engine!
Thank you for not calling it 3d printed 🤣
yea it ain't 3d printed anymore
Near impossible to not have it melt or be more expensive than a store bought 3 cylinder
@@The_Potato_Boi around the yard fun channel is attempting that actually
18:20 the reason there was so much smoke was because you put so much oil in the engine earlier. the white smoke is the burnt oil.
To prolong life, you might want to put a gear-driven oil pump that points at the rotating assembly and inject two-stroke ( you were burning standard motor oil and that's why it was so bad), as well as some heat fins on the side of the cylinder walls with a fan-style flywheel and shroud the cylender if you plan to keep it a stationary engine. I have build many a classic piaggio's and this is my advice. This was super fun to watch! cheers.
the crankshaft is very optimistic!!!
It survived multiple thrown rods.
Most cranks are way stronger than they need to be
@@fastinradfordableif funny, most car brands are afraid of the pistons of crank getting broken, but they forget the rods.
If you don't mind me suggesting, from various injuries sustaining while used hole drill bits and forstner bits, A pillar drill/drill press is much safer, easier to use and precise that using a handheld drill
Beyond impressed with what you've achieved here. Great work 👏
18:55 found the “one piece”
They need some backpressure to run, but not much. It's just that they benefit from exhaust resonances much more than 4 strokes so in order to get the absolute best performance you have to take it to it's absolute extreme. You optimize it for a specific RPM (same as a 4 stroke, but not really, but still kind of the same thing) and the backpressure will help draw more air out and thus into the combustion chamber at that RPM. 4 strokes use the same trickery on intakes too, which is why variable length manifolds and things like the weird ITB setup with extra valves to change resonance to optimize for different RPM on most new Porsches, but that has almost no erffect on 2 strokes. On 4 strokes that can give you as much as 15-20% more air than you'd otherwise get from just an open port or "whatever it holds tha MAP and MAF" manifold.
Also just get a larger pipe to fit around the cylinder and run a tiny electric water pump that pumps water through that jacket. Basically how an open deck engine cools itself, just far more half-assed.
Just to note; when you are "touching" outer diameter of the component with your micrometer. Please, just one click.
Been in machining for a decade; you can actually get the "touch" before the click to get true reading.
Love your content bro. Based asf.
4:02 Is the clip in reverse or you drilling a hole the wrong direction for the first clip?
@@HubertFocus neither, the camera makes it look like it's spinning backwards
0:32 - Project Farm has the answer to your question!
At first I thought this was gonna be challenge build but no I realize you’re just that crazy
2:20 wtf was that oh my god please at least don't do it on camera, I'm dying internally ahah
18:19 My handbrake broke, can i use yours?