My Bayou 300 is a 1989. That was a really great job on the video. Taking your time, going step by step, and explaining so well made the whole process really easy. I found where the two extra O-rings go. The smaller one (of the two that were leftover) goes on the bowl drain screw. And the larger goes on the throttle cable ( just below the threads) where it inserts into the carb. An interesting one I found is that the new float needle that came with my rebuild kit had an interior spring (like they all do) that pushes a plunger down against the hinge of the float. But this one pushed the plunger (down against the hinge) so hard that my float had too much pressure pushing it down (with that plunger) so the gas never cut off. I compared the old float needle to the new float needle and saw that the plunger was half as long sticking out of the old needle. I put the old needle back in, and everything worked perfectly. I used the same rebuild kit that you mentioned from Race Driven. Thank you again! Jeff
That's awesome! I'm glad the video helped you and you got her running again. Good to know where those two O-rings went. That is interesting about your float but I'm glad you got it figured out. Cheers!
Have a Bayou 300 1995, did this rebuild with the Shindy kit, the float needle is also different from the original. I used the original instead which worked fine :)
I literally barely know how to jump start my car but I just rebuilt my carb for $8.49 and a 6 pack of beer thanks to this video. I LOVE THE INTERNET!!!
Relistened to your vid and caught that another rebuild was 1-1/2 turns. Mine was 2 -1/8 vs the 2-5/8 you indicated. So the spec is still up for grabs. Thanks for the presentation as was very helpful on what to note.
thank you for this video one of the best i've seen in a while you went in to everything needed you helped me get my bike running tx again keep them coming.
Hello, just want to say thank you for this video, I recently bought a Kawasaki KEF 300 and from what I've read online, it uses the same carburetor as your Bayou but with different size jets so this was really helpful.
Thanks, great detail. I also have fuel leaking with quite some speed through that bottom drain hose. Was going to open it up. But it is good to know ahead of time what to expect and what springs will jump out...
Great job on your video helped me out a lot. Wish everyone did such good detail. Enjoyed funny comments on your vid when you messed up a couple times. Great sport about it 👍👍👍
That's awesome! I'm glad it helped. I'm just a DIY tinkerer that likes to figure out how things work (and save a lot of $$$). If I can help someone else, that's a bonus! Thanks a bunch for taking time to let me know this video helped and was a little bit entertaining!!! :D Cheers!
Those are you're blow mini o- ring for the plunger on your accelerator pump.,an your fuel pump O-ring seal underneath the idle plate to there two screws has another spot for the small O-ring to go into.
Great video man, thanks for all the great info...helped me out a ton..i’ve got a 2001 and its got a couple wires attached to the bottom of the carb...not sure what they are for, any ideas?
Thanks for the video! I can't find many videos of people breaking everything down on a kawasaki bayou 300. I would like to seen you take carb off of machine and more videos on this machine.
That plate you didn't remove has takes A small O-ring and the fuel mechanical fuel pump takes A small O-ring seal. You forgot those two O-rings go at man.
Ah had to look at the video to refresh my memory. That line I believe is the vent line. It runs up and around the Y looking bracket on the back of the tank to help keep water out of the carb and probably help get fuel into the bowl. The other end of the hose, wrapped around the back of the tank is just open ended without anything on it. Let me know if you need me to take a picture of it and I'd be glad to. The part number is 92059-1727 and dimensions of the tube are 6.5x9.5x430. Hope that helps!
No, to drain the bowl manually you will use the plug on the bottom. If the carb is filling with too much fuel then your float may have a hole in it or the needle isn't seating properly to cut off the fuel flow.
I’ve tried everything to stop this slow leak clean the float needle seat and installed a new carb kit that had the float needle in it. It just won’t stop leaking from the carburetor bowl drain drain screw it tight
Hello i have the same bike with same problem im on my second carburator i ordered from amazon and they over flow as well i have the same carburator you have the cvk i am going to try the rebuild kit did you solve your problem and what was it can you help me out i have opened and cleaned out 4 carbs at least twice each and no luck???
You're video helped a ton. I have one issue I lost the spring guide (in the top diaphragm) for my carb. Do you have any idea what I can do to replace it?
I cleaned out my brothers 2005 artic cat last summer. I want to say that it was the same company that you have on yours. If I remember right the parts guy told me that artic cat was made by Suzuki or at least their powertrain came from them. I also had to press out the cylinder, new rings and piston. Wanna say he gave $600 for it because it was smoking. Pretty sure he needs a carb kit in it also. Sweet vid.
Thanks! I'm glad I know the owner of this bike. It sat at the deer camp while he lived in another state most of its life. If it had an hour meter I'm sure it would be quite low for a 22 year old atv. I think I've romped on it harder the past couple of weekends more than he did in 22 years. Thankfully the furthest I had to go into the engine was to adjust the valves! For your brother you could always tell him to order the carb kit from eBay for $15, point him towards this video, and tell him to have fun haha. I hope to have another atv soon...damn I need to build a trailer to haul these around. Thanks for watching man!
I'd send him this way but he's about as mechanically inclined as as a raccoon. I'm lucky when I can get him to help change his damn oil and rotate his tires. Replacing a piston in those engines isn't that hard really. Just make sure you don't drop the timing chain down to the bottom of the crankcase cause that sucks donkey balls trying to get it back out.
Because of the plastic fittings, you would not want to immerse the carburetor body in a carb cleaner bath. Is that correct? Also, no assembly lube should be used; or, would it be helpful to use a small amount of mineral oil on the o-ring and diaphragm cover seal?
You'll be ok spraying with carb cleaner and drying after a minute or two but I wouldn't soak any plastic or rubber parts. All the O-rings and gaskets in these kits are designed to be put on dry I believe. You definitely wouldn't want use anything that could clog up the tiny passages in the jets or carb.
Thanks for responding. I've rebuilt carbs before, but your video was very helpful. I'm certain without it, I would have made some silly mistakes. My Bayou 300 runs like a top now.
The rest of what you're saying is correct about it all though. Accept that pin being A wrist pin it's not it's A float pin instead. Research it online if you don't believe me about it for yourself to.
I bought a 1998 klf 300 4x4 that haven’t been started since 2002,but it was stores noise a factory unit,I cleaned the carb because there was petrol pissing out of the overflow pipe,put it back together,got it running,but there is still petrol leaking out,one thing I’m confused about,there is electric wires on my carb..does anybody know what they are for,or can anybody help me on some advice to stop the leaking please,,thanks
After I rebuilt my carb it was still leaking out of the overflow tube. What I found was a very tiny piece of rubber trash in the fuel needle pocket where the float pushes the needle up. If that isn't making a good seal then it won't shut off the fuel flow when needed. The wire is likely a carb heater to keep the fuel from icing at below zero temps. If it's not that cold then I wouldn't worry about it.
Chaos Garage thank you so much,I did buy a carb after,and it’s running great now,but I have not yet drove it,it’s been standing since 2002,what would you recommend I do before I just jump on it and drive it,I know I got to change the engine oil,ive done the air filter,what about all the drive shaft joints,should I grease them or not bother,ive used a full tank of fuel on just tick over,so it should be broke in the engine as it’s been nearly 20 years now,lol,thanks and sorry if your bizzy,fantastic video also,I got to say that
First thing I would do is check your jets and make sure all the holes are clear. Did you reuse the jets or put in new ones? If you put in new ones, compare them to the old ones to make sure they are the right size and holes are the same. On my wife's Honda the secondary jet was clogged and was causing it to backfire.
The brake cleaner used to clean the carb ruined the rubber diaphragm of my Kawasaki carb!? It cleans the carb well but don't let it have prolonged contact with the rubber diaphragm.
Sorry to hear that. It's best to use carb cleaner but the specific kind of brake cleaner that I use is a little less harsh on paint and rubber. Still you are right, if there is any prolonged contact (even with carb cleaner), you need to remove any rubber. I hope you get it straightened out and running again!!!
Thanks. Looking at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki's website for the 95 300 4x4 and the 01 300 4x4 and it looks like the part number for the 01 is 15003-1362 and for the 95 15003-1075. But the diagrams themselves look almost identical and 98% of the part numbers are the same. It also appears the part numbers are all the same for all the parts in the carb kit if you were asking to use this video to help you rebuild one. I'd venture to say you would be good to go!
I finally got around to rebuilding the carb on my wife's Bayou today. Followed along step by step, and I also had the 2 little rubber gaskets left over. Have you ever removed the rear axles from your Bayou?
I'm not trying to correct you in no way at all. I'm just stating A known fact that pin isn't called A wrist pin for the float& needle. It's called A float pin not A wrist pin. It's also known as A float guide pin to. Not A wrist pin though. Wrist pins are for pistons not float blows& floats by no means at all. They're two/ 2 totally different things one is smaller than the other to. That's how you know the difference between them both to.
I'm fairly confident that one of them does indeed go on the choke...the other I'm not too sure of. I'm not seeing it on the parts diagrams. Thanks for watching and the sub!
LOL! I watched this to try and figure out where those two damn leftover o-rings go. Good video, and thanks Jeff for solving the riddle of the o-rings!
hah at least I wasn't the only one :D
My Bayou 300 is a 1989. That was a really great job on the video. Taking your time, going step by step, and explaining so well made the whole process really easy. I found where the two extra O-rings go. The smaller one (of the two that were leftover) goes on the bowl drain screw. And the larger goes on the throttle cable ( just below the threads) where it inserts into the carb. An interesting one I found is that the new float needle that came with my rebuild kit had an interior spring (like they all do) that pushes a plunger down against the hinge of the float. But this one pushed the plunger (down against the hinge) so hard that my float had too much pressure pushing it down (with that plunger) so the gas never cut off. I compared the old float needle to the new float needle and saw that the plunger was half as long sticking out of the old needle. I put the old needle back in, and everything worked perfectly. I used the same rebuild kit that you mentioned from Race Driven. Thank you again! Jeff
That's awesome! I'm glad the video helped you and you got her running again. Good to know where those two O-rings went. That is interesting about your float but I'm glad you got it figured out. Cheers!
Have a Bayou 300 1995, did this rebuild with the Shindy kit, the float needle is also different from the original. I used the original instead which worked fine :)
I literally barely know how to jump start my car but I just rebuilt my carb for $8.49 and a 6 pack of beer thanks to this video. I LOVE THE INTERNET!!!
Hell yeah! Glad I could help. Congrats!
Relistened to your vid and caught that another rebuild was 1-1/2 turns. Mine was 2 -1/8 vs the 2-5/8 you indicated. So the spec is still up for grabs. Thanks for the presentation as was very helpful on what to note.
Glad it helped
thank you for this video one of the best i've seen in a while you went in to everything needed you helped me get my bike running tx again keep them coming.
Awesome! I've got to see what's broken in my rear axle :(
Great video. I got my carb out by removing the battery box and the air filter box. It was a lot easier than removing the shell.
Hello, just want to say thank you for this video, I recently bought a Kawasaki KEF 300 and from what I've read online, it uses the same carburetor as your Bayou but with different size jets so this was really helpful.
That's awesome! I'm glad this video helped!
Thanks, great detail. I also have fuel leaking with quite some speed through that bottom drain hose. Was going to open it up. But it is good to know ahead of time what to expect and what springs will jump out...
Sounds like a stuck or bad float. Hopefully you get her knocked out.
not gonna lie this helped me figure out a thing or two
Awesome!
Bigger o ring is for choke. Goes right behind threads on plastic piece
Very good video. Have two o-rings left over too.
Glad it helped!
My choke is not working on mine. Has brand new carb and the choke cable moves freely. What am I missing..? Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the video👍🏼👍🏼 exactly what I needed mich help
You're welcome my friend!
Great job on your video helped me out a lot. Wish everyone did such good detail. Enjoyed funny comments on your vid when you messed up a couple times. Great sport about it 👍👍👍
That's awesome! I'm glad it helped. I'm just a DIY tinkerer that likes to figure out how things work (and save a lot of $$$). If I can help someone else, that's a bonus! Thanks a bunch for taking time to let me know this video helped and was a little bit entertaining!!! :D Cheers!
Those are you're blow mini o- ring for the plunger on your accelerator pump.,an your fuel pump O-ring seal underneath the idle plate to there two screws has another spot for the small O-ring to go into.
Nice video....my carb leaks like yours did, mine may have some crud on the float valve too.I hope your carb didn't leak when you put it back on.
Once the float and needle were working properly the carb stopped overflowing with gas.
Great video man, thanks for all the great info...helped me out a ton..i’ve got a 2001 and its got a couple wires attached to the bottom of the carb...not sure what they are for, any ideas?
maybe a heater and the carb is from a prarie 300 or something? if it's a heater you can probably ignore it.
Thanks for the video! I can't find many videos of people breaking everything down on a kawasaki bayou 300. I would like to seen you take carb off of machine and more videos on this machine.
You're very welcome! Right now mine is down, so I'll have to tear into the rear axle and see what broke. I'll be sure to get it on camera!
That plate you didn't remove has takes A small O-ring and the fuel mechanical fuel pump takes A small O-ring seal. You forgot those two O-rings go at man.
Thank you so much i put that spring and needle in backwards will let you know if this video helped me ride again!!
Awesome...hopefully you get it all sorted!
I just bought an aftermarket carb identical to this on eBay for $50 it's sold by zoom zoom parts. I got it to use while I overhaul the original carb
+Jim Bob sweet that seems like a pretty good price and now you have a spare!
can you please tell me if the connector above the fuel in connector does anything. mine doesnt have a hose connected to it
Ah had to look at the video to refresh my memory. That line I believe is the vent line. It runs up and around the Y looking bracket on the back of the tank to help keep water out of the carb and probably help get fuel into the bowl. The other end of the hose, wrapped around the back of the tank is just open ended without anything on it. Let me know if you need me to take a picture of it and I'd be glad to. The part number is 92059-1727 and dimensions of the tube are 6.5x9.5x430. Hope that helps!
Hi thanks for sharing I had a question if the fuel bowl is overfilling Will it drain from the bottom of the carb bowl?
No, to drain the bowl manually you will use the plug on the bottom. If the carb is filling with too much fuel then your float may have a hole in it or the needle isn't seating properly to cut off the fuel flow.
I’ve tried everything to stop this slow leak clean the float needle seat and installed a new carb kit that had the float needle in it. It just won’t stop leaking from the carburetor bowl drain drain screw it tight
Hello i have the same bike with same problem im on my second carburator i ordered from amazon and they over flow as well i have the same carburator you have the cvk i am going to try the rebuild kit did you solve your problem and what was it can you help me out i have opened and cleaned out 4 carbs at least twice each and no luck???
Is it the same carb model for a 98 4x4 bayou ?
It should be.
@@ChaosGarage OK appreciate it I just bought an OEM one from eBay looks identical to yours! because mine had a Chinese carb.
You're video helped a ton. I have one issue I lost the spring guide (in the top diaphragm) for my carb. Do you have any idea what I can do to replace it?
Glad the video helped. Honestly I'm not sure where you could get just that part. Hope you get it figured out!
Very helpful vid!
I cleaned out my brothers 2005 artic cat last summer. I want to say that it was the same company that you have on yours. If I remember right the parts guy told me that artic cat was made by Suzuki or at least their powertrain came from them. I also had to press out the cylinder, new rings and piston. Wanna say he gave $600 for it because it was smoking. Pretty sure he needs a carb kit in it also. Sweet vid.
Thanks! I'm glad I know the owner of this bike. It sat at the deer camp while he lived in another state most of its life. If it had an hour meter I'm sure it would be quite low for a 22 year old atv. I think I've romped on it harder the past couple of weekends more than he did in 22 years. Thankfully the furthest I had to go into the engine was to adjust the valves! For your brother you could always tell him to order the carb kit from eBay for $15, point him towards this video, and tell him to have fun haha. I hope to have another atv soon...damn I need to build a trailer to haul these around. Thanks for watching man!
I'd send him this way but he's about as mechanically inclined as as a raccoon. I'm lucky when I can get him to help change his damn oil and rotate his tires. Replacing a piston in those engines isn't that hard really. Just make sure you don't drop the timing chain down to the bottom of the crankcase cause that sucks donkey balls trying to get it back out.
+Hard Knocks Forge haha sounds like a fun time!
Put new carb on mine still got run choke till it gets warm up someone said adjust pilot screw got a video on that
How did did you get the choke cable off?? That’s all I need to know
It screws off.
Because of the plastic fittings, you would not want to immerse the carburetor body in a carb cleaner bath. Is that correct? Also, no assembly lube should be used; or, would it be helpful to use a small amount of mineral oil on the o-ring and diaphragm cover seal?
You'll be ok spraying with carb cleaner and drying after a minute or two but I wouldn't soak any plastic or rubber parts. All the O-rings and gaskets in these kits are designed to be put on dry I believe. You definitely wouldn't want use anything that could clog up the tiny passages in the jets or carb.
Thanks for responding. I've rebuilt carbs before, but your video was very helpful. I'm certain without it, I would have made some silly mistakes. My Bayou 300 runs like a top now.
That is awesome!
Awesome vid..
Thanks!
The rest of what you're saying is correct about it all though. Accept that pin being A wrist pin it's not it's A float pin instead. Research it online if you don't believe me about it for yourself to.
I fell asleep 7 times watching this,
Maybe you should take a nap before watching a 45 minute technical video? Don't want you to fall over and poke an eye out.
I bought a 1998 klf 300 4x4 that haven’t been started since 2002,but it was stores noise a factory unit,I cleaned the carb because there was petrol pissing out of the overflow pipe,put it back together,got it running,but there is still petrol leaking out,one thing I’m confused about,there is electric wires on my carb..does anybody know what they are for,or can anybody help me on some advice to stop the leaking please,,thanks
After I rebuilt my carb it was still leaking out of the overflow tube. What I found was a very tiny piece of rubber trash in the fuel needle pocket where the float pushes the needle up. If that isn't making a good seal then it won't shut off the fuel flow when needed. The wire is likely a carb heater to keep the fuel from icing at below zero temps. If it's not that cold then I wouldn't worry about it.
Chaos Garage thank you so much,I did buy a carb after,and it’s running great now,but I have not yet drove it,it’s been standing since 2002,what would you recommend I do before I just jump on it and drive it,I know I got to change the engine oil,ive done the air filter,what about all the drive shaft joints,should I grease them or not bother,ive used a full tank of fuel on just tick over,so it should be broke in the engine as it’s been nearly 20 years now,lol,thanks and sorry if your bizzy,fantastic video also,I got to say that
Not having a good experience with my bayou 300 carburetor. Backfiring through the carburetor. I rebuilt it but apparently I missed something
First thing I would do is check your jets and make sure all the holes are clear. Did you reuse the jets or put in new ones? If you put in new ones, compare them to the old ones to make sure they are the right size and holes are the same. On my wife's Honda the secondary jet was clogged and was causing it to backfire.
The brake cleaner used to clean the carb ruined the rubber diaphragm of my Kawasaki carb!? It cleans the carb well but don't let it have prolonged contact with the rubber diaphragm.
Sorry to hear that. It's best to use carb cleaner but the specific kind of brake cleaner that I use is a little less harsh on paint and rubber. Still you are right, if there is any prolonged contact (even with carb cleaner), you need to remove any rubber. I hope you get it straightened out and running again!!!
because you used BRAKE cleaner, not CARB cleaner......
So where the hell do the "O" rings go?
Hey, Great vid! Did Kawi use this same carb on the 2001 Bayou?
Thanks. Looking at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki's website for the 95 300 4x4 and the 01 300 4x4 and it looks like the part number for the 01 is 15003-1362 and for the 95 15003-1075. But the diagrams themselves look almost identical and 98% of the part numbers are the same. It also appears the part numbers are all the same for all the parts in the carb kit if you were asking to use this video to help you rebuild one. I'd venture to say you would be good to go!
Awesome, thanks for the help
Any time my friend!
I finally got around to rebuilding the carb on my wife's Bayou today. Followed along step by step, and I also had the 2 little rubber gaskets left over. Have you ever removed the rear axles from your Bayou?
Awesome! I haven't done anything with the rear drivetrain on the Bayou. I need to at least check the fluid in it. What's going on with it?
Help my Kawasaki 300 byau 95 starter won't crank and my compression release lever fell out I need help now I need it to work it is a work vehicle help
Big ring is for choke
Thanks! That's what I figured.
I'm not trying to correct you in no way at all. I'm just stating A known fact that pin isn't called A wrist pin for the float& needle. It's called A float pin not A wrist pin. It's also known as A float guide pin to. Not A wrist pin though. Wrist pins are for pistons not float blows& floats by no means at all. They're two/ 2 totally different things one is smaller than the other to. That's how you know the difference between them both to.
I don't mind being corrected. Thanks for the clarifications!
Hard to watch hurry up and show ppl lol
one "extra" o-ring may be for the choke mechanism, the other may be a float needle seat
I'm fairly confident that one of them does indeed go on the choke...the other I'm not too sure of. I'm not seeing it on the parts diagrams. Thanks for watching and the sub!
Chaos Garage I believe you are right about the o-ring goes where the choke mechanism is and the other o-ring ...no idea
I used the smaller replacement o-ring on the carb drain screw