Took my valve body off last year and haven’t had the motivation or the need to put it back on and went to look for a video to refresh me on how it’s done and found this gem. Damn, I wish you uploaded this a couple months earlier when I did the job, lol
Thanks for the kind words, man. When did you reinstall your valve body? I published the vid last October so not sure if that was before or after you completed the job. But you now have it in the event you need to do another one!
I have a 97 4l60e going in a 95 c1500. It was rebuilt and drove great for a little over a year, until the pump rotor broke prematurely. The trans shifted great but would rapidly surge to higher rpms at times, sorta like a passing gear. I've read 95 is a stand alone year, and I'm curious if that played a part in the pump failure. I'm rebuilding it and wanted to know are their any specifics I can do to make it work in my 95 truck and prevent another premature failure. This is my first transmission build by the way.
Hi Jimmy, the pump in the 1995-2000 4L60Es that went behind 5.0, 5.7 and 4.3L Gen 1 small blocks as well as the LT1-LT4 engines (95-97) was exactly the same...The pump failed likely due to excessive rotor/slide to pump deck surface clearance and/or excessively worn rotor was reused. The pump rings may have also failed but that's not as common a reason for pump failure in daily driven vehicles. Sounds like the rebuild was a patch job as opposed to a complete and proper overhaul - that is my guess at the root cause behind it's early demise. If you're going to rebuild the unit for the fist time, check out these videos first - they will get you started on the tools you need on hand and what you need to check for on tear down: 1. Tools: ua-cam.com/video/HVo0uyfdJS0/v-deo.html 2: Tear Down and Inspection: ua-cam.com/video/H3WvpNV2uFQ/v-deo.html
wsp bro i just replcaed my tranmssion fluid i took the valve body off to remove all the solenoids and the tcc one but after i finished installing everything and the fluid my truck doesnt go to drive or reverse and its kinda hard to do the change idk what i could of done wrong
@@nickstransmissions preciated bro but for some reason i had connected them together but its impossible to shift to gears and the filter didn’t fell off idk if i connected it wrong, does it matter if i connected the linkage arm to the little hole in the manual valve or thats the issue since i did it that way
Hey Spponser, thanks for watching...There all in there - I use thick, green assembly lube to hold them to the underside of the valve body so they don't fall out.
@nickstransmissions are you able to show me which spots they go? I did my box the other day and I believe I only had 5/6 metal balls when I took it apart and out it together, I put the box in the car and it doesn't drive so I think I might've lost a ball
No, unless you poured a ton of it into the filter neck for some reason... - Do you have reverse? - Do you move forward when putting the vehicle in manual low or manual 2 on the shifter?
What work did you recently do to the transmission? No forward movement in any range position but reverse works is usually low roller clutch assembly failure or you installed it backwards if the transmission was just rebuilt.
@@nickstransmissions my transmisión was completely rebuilt ran good for about 200 miles then it got a shift solenoid b stuck off code trans was stuck in 3rd . Changed solenoids and nothing . Ended up fining out the valve was stuck in the valve body so I replaced it and now that I replaced it only has reverse rest of the gears are neutral
Do you not need a gasket for the 1-2 accumulate? I'm doing a harness removal and installing and it's in my way . I went ahead and took it off to keep productivity going but so I need to order a gasket
You do if you're running an accumulator housing base plate which you can by in the aftermarket for the V8 700R4s and 4L60Es...The smaller displacement in-line engines have base plates from the factory and take a gasket between the base plate and 1-2 acc housing.
Love your knowledge and how descriptive you are. I have a damaged 2012 trans... with the 17 pin connector for valvebody. I have come across a good 2008 trans with 13 pin connector. Can I use the 2012 valvebody on the 2008 trans..?
Hi Tom, thank you for the kind words. Unfortunately, no - nothing 2009+ is compatible with 2008 and back when it comes to valve bodies...Check out my video on 4L60E Interchange Rules for the details: ua-cam.com/video/4kEzgffqi7w/v-deo.html Why not rebuild your 2008 unit? You don't need very many special tools; in fact you'd probably spend about the same amount in tooling as you would a used 4L60E which is a big gamble in the first place...
I have a 2012. 3rd and 4th non functional. Seems to be number 1 issue on these units. I came Across a low kms 2008. Didn't know it was 2008 until I saw 13 pin connector. Thank you for video clarifying cases are different. Is the 2008 useless in this situation? Trying to save money here. Hard times
Yes, the 2008 is basically useless for what you're trying to do. You need a 2009+ with the correct bell housing for your engine application. I get what you're saying about trying to save money but the majority of the time, used transmissions cost you MORE money as you're paying for the used unit, plus fluid and the time you spend installing it plus the cost of the inevitable rebuild due to 3-4 clutch pack failure shortly down the road, along with the R/R fluid costs...I can't tell you how many 'used' 4L60Es I have rebuilt over the years from customers whose replacement transmissions lasted all of a few months or so before they crapped out.
Oh...I am confused. The transmissions 2012 and 2008 sitting side by side are identical. The only difference is the 2012 has 17 pin plug receiver. And the other one in question has 13 pin plug reciever
Try swapping it and see what happens....Your wiring harness and internal mode switch will also have to come over - those should install without issue though you'll need the special tool to collapse the locking tabs at the connector bore to safely remove the harness from the case (or simply buy a new harness for the replacement unit). ETA - external appearance does not equal compatibility (at least not without some adaptation) when it comes to transmissions, though in this case you pointed out a difference between them...The difference you cited above is central to whether or not they are actually interchangeable as-is.
Nick I need your advice on a problem I have with my Ford C-6. I recently had to replace the gear shaft seal and now I’m having trouble realigning the valve body to the gear selector, especially trying to figure out the proper position of the parking actuator pawl rod (I think it’s called). I thought I had got it right but when I did a test if putting the gear selector in neutral I got under the car and tried to rotate the driveshaft by hand but it wouldn’t move. So my question is should I try putting the car in neutral and then try to reinstall the valve body?
Hi Gerald, check out my C6 rebuild vid (pt 2) and skip ahead to 49:11 where i begin to install the valve body: ua-cam.com/video/WI-1OeTb-So/v-deo.html That should give you a good idea of what to do...let me know if you have any questions after viewing it and we can go from there.
No. Either 3-4 pack is burnt or possibly intermittent speed sensor failure...Disconnect the transmission fuse, fire it up, put it in Drive then see if it moves...Doing this will max the line pressure and put it in 3rd gear...If it still doesn't move, 3-4 pack is wiped and trans has to come out for overhaul.
Very informative. Quick question - 4l60e in a `99 trans am is fine everywhere except on the highway, the TCC unlocks when I slightly let off of the accelerator. Shifts and TCC lock are fine. Thanks in advance!
Sounds like either electronic/command and control driven or a small leak in the TCC apply circuit, either in the valve body, input shaft (o-ring) or converter itself going out. It may also be related to your tuning but I don't have any experience in the tuning/programming side of things so you'd need to contact your tuner or consult with a tuning SME.
hey just wondering if there are any differences in the valve bodies between v6 4l60e's and v8s specifically a 2006 4l60e from a i5 colorado and a 2002/03 5.3 silverado edit: just watched your compassion video and it seems to be from early 2006, still wondering though if I could just install the input drum assembly and forward onto the rest of the i5 trans inorder to covert it to a 300mm 30 spline from a 245mm 27 spline without any issue
Hi Bryan, thank you for watching... You can install the 300mm input drum/shaft assembly into those transmissions as they are largely the same as the V8 versions provided that you install the correct 300mm input drum for your application...You may have to recalibrate the 1-2 shift a bit since those housings and pistons were a little different. The valve bodies are all the same except for the 1-2 accumulator regulator valve which I believe is different in the I5 versions. The difference shouldn't be consequential, esp if you install a shift kit which recalibrates that shift anyway, The only other thing you'd have to do is swap the bell housing. That transmission you see in this video is a 2001 unit; not sure what other video you may be referring to but you can easily tell it's not any older than 2002 by the EPC connector on the wiring harness. The 2003+ electronic pressure control solenoid changed and connector was more traditional, cube style compared to the first design. All the above said, are you looking to just swap drums into an otherwise used transmission or are you rebuilding the 2006 unit and wanting to convert it to work with a V8 Gen3 small block?
@nickstransmissions I originally took out the engine and trans all together from the Silverado and swapped it into the 2006 Colorado since the i5 engine blew, the transmissions been sitting in the back yard until the one working on the truck got heavily abused by me and blew as well, I'm looking to covert the i5 trans into working on the 5.3 to get it back up and running. I went through the trouble of replacing the sun shell, installing a Corvette servo, replacing the 3-4 and forward pistons for the sonnax pinless accumulators while just flipping the 1-2. Realized recently I had a 27 spline instead of the 30 and wanted to know if they were interchangeable considering I also want to swap everything in front of the drum including the pump finding that there are stator support differences and I'm not quite sure yet if the one already in the truck is a wedge style or o ring style since I haven't taken it off but either way wanted info on if there was issue swapping the two. About the 1-2 shift though you think I could just get away with getting a performance regulator valve from transgo? Thanks for all the help Edit: I've also seen people recommend a 471" Boost valve for the pump on swaps in case I wanted to reuse the i5 pump, would you know if there are any issues combining that with the rest of the V8 forward internals.
Install the Sonnax 4L60E LB1 or LB2, depending on which pump you'll be using...I think the change year was 2005 for that design so you'll need to compare the existing boost valve with what Sonnax has on their web page...I'm assuming you're completely overhauling the transmission, including replacing the forward drum bonded pistons with new ones, installing a full paper/rubber kit, bushing kit, electrical components, etc plus a new torque converter. If you doing all of the above work as described, spend a few more dollars and another hour or so doing it completely so you don't have to worry about it any more.. You don't have to worry about o-ring vs wedge seal unless you are also swapping cases...If you keep the the same pump assy with the same case it originally came from, it will be fine...Since you're working on the 4L60E from the in-line 5 engine, you'll want to use the pump body that came with that engine...Have it machined if the working surface is no good (most need machine work).
@@nickstransmissions appreciate the help, one last question, swapping the stator support is as simple as just unbolting and bolting right? or is there more work to it
It depends...Are you simply wanting to swap the stator/stator support assembly (i.e. the rear half of the pump, all together) or are you trying to swap the stator support (aluminum circular housing with all the valves, etc) to a different stator shaft?
Nick why delete the Low reverse check ball?, and shoud i use the Transgo supplied "White" spring for the AFL bore in addition to the factory spring or use the one that came from the 3-2 kick down like you normally do? , I set up my Spacer plate By the Sonnex performance pack instructions for the AFL Balance hole (.052), But taking your advice for the 1-2 (..080) 3rd (.110) and 4th (.110) Transmission has a Sonnax Super Servo, I am using a Brand New TransGo separator plate , drilling it to .052 on the AFL hole barly made there hole any bigger,
Why are you using any Transgo stuff in this build? Why are you insisting on introducing so much complexity into what sounds like your first transmission rebuild? I advised you to put all the stuff from their shift kit on the shelf if you're using the Sonnax Performance Pack / Zip kit...Please keep it simple, follow the Sonnax instructions and leave the plate alone out side of what Sonnax tells you to do as wll as what you have already done. Keep the AFL hole as it is (.052). Your stall speed is 2800 or greater, right? Sorry, I can't keep track of all those details but want to ensure your 3rd, BR and 4th gear orifice sizes are consistent / aligned to your converter stall.
@@nickstransmissions Yes I didnt use the TransGo kit Just the Sonnax Performance Pack kit, I was just asking about using the white spring over what you usually use from the 3-2 kick down bore, both springs seem to be about the same tension, Yes i have a higher stall (PTC 2,800) converter, i have 3rd & 4th at .110 , second at .080 , AFL at .52, 3-2 at .093 let me know if thats right or any other holes to drill, Also if i should leave the low reverse check ball out, i know you leave the 2-3 check ball out ? thank you for the help, Ill send you more Coffee ☕ ☕ next week
Sorry, yes you can put that 3-2 downshift spring into the AFL spring for increasing your AFL pressure to solenoids. I leave the #6 check ball which is the coast clutch flow control check ball, not the 2-3 check ball - the 2-3 check ball is in a little capsule behind the servo bore. The #6 check ball is located right next to the check ball in the bath-tub shaped formation on the underside of the valve body. Refer to this video for more details on that check ball: ua-cam.com/video/vG807bRY4FE/v-deo.html You can also leave the reverse check ball out or keep it in - it really doesn't matter unless you will be rapidly transitioning from drive to reverse...The most common application where that sort of driving will be done is tactical driving (ie police vehicles, emergency) or in some cases, snow plow trucks. I'd def leave it out in those cases.
@@nickstransmissions OK Got it, Thank you so much, im going to wrap this 4L60E up by tomorrow, its going in my 87 Buick T-type Regal, its a conversion car, slightly worked LS2 with small blower cam (222-234 on a 114 with .600 lift) 1- 7/8" long tube headers , custom 3" stainless duel exhaust with X pipe and blow threw mufflers , She sounds really good, East Coast Novi-2000 supercharger system, she pulls over 700 at 14 PSI, Pulls like a freight train, Anyway the curent transmission thats in the car slips in 4th i believe i mentioned this to you a while ago, i believe its the pos servo that i bought from a joe shmooo lol, I bought a new servo (corvette servo and a superior 4th apply piston/cover) to try out, all i can say is that 1st-2nd and 3rd hold strong, it does shit into 4th and holds during cruise but any touch of the throtle (30%+) and she slips, who knows maybe i grinded the pin to much, its a 2009 4L65E with a 2008 (15pin) valve body, Maybe you can help me diagnose it, TTYS Walter
All future success to you, thanks for posting this video. I'm getting p1860 now...was p1870 but I changed one solenoid....I have a rebuilt valve body and wonder if I can better diagnose the problem instead of just using the money shotgun to see if it works... Seems to drive fine and while I did change the one solenoid I also changed a ground strap on the engine...so... If I had a lift I'd love to get in the game with the volt meter...but on the ground makes it such a challenge,.. Do you know anyone who you could recommend in the NJ area for such a job? Again, best luck with the channel, please keep it up
Thank you for the kind words, John! P1860 is the TCC solenoid itself and yes, access to that connector is very tough with the trans in the vehicle...If you did want to give it a shot, place your probes on pin E (12 volt ground) and pin T (TCC Solenoid). Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone in Jersey as I haven't lived back there since childhood and haven't come across any reputable shops there.
You're welcome, John....You can purchase a Fitzall TCC Solenoid that can be spliced in if you'd like - I've used them numerous times and never had an issue... Fitzall TCC Sol: www.fitzall.com/K77929U.php I'd also recommend installing their valve for whichever year valve body you're working on - you can browse Fitzall's website for the correct valve or search on Amazon as well...
I have no idea what specific site or sites you've looked at but ATSG calls for 8 ft lbs, I use 104 inch lbs so as long as you're using 96 inch lbs but no more than 110 inch lbs, you'll be fine.
what about just driving home from work and the "Transmission Hot" comes on in the dash and it ends up not shifting out of first? I got home and dropped the pan and i mean there was a little bit of metal shavings from it being a 200k mile transmission but other than that nothing out of the ordinary? 2004 chevy silverado z71
That could be either TFTS (trans fluid temp sensor") is bad, the fluid is actually too hot or your VSS is bad...If an over-temp condition is detected, the PCM will typically freeze upshifts and adapts...You'll know this is the case if normal function is restored once the vehicle is allowed to sit for a while then you drive it again. If you have P1810, it's likely a bad temp switch (the temp switch is integrated into your pressure switch manifold assembly, which is that oblong thing bolted to the valve body as seen in the thumbnail image for this video. Lastly, check your vehicle speed sensor...yours will be in the transfer case since you have a Z71. If the VSS is bad or there's a break in comms between it and the PCM, you will have no upshift from 1st gear.
Nick good morning. Your video was a great help. I think I got it right now. What I did was to put the transmission in park, then position the actuator rod in position then I rotated the driveshaft until I heard it click into the prawl and lock. Then moved the shifter to neutral to verify that I could rotate the driveshaft and it worked. I will reinstall the pan today. I only have two questions, how tight should the 7/8 nut be? I tightened it but not excessively and should the c6 kickdown without the original kickdown rod as I use Fitech efi and the rod won’t work. Thanks again very much for your help
Good morning! I'd tighten up that selector shaft retention nut otherwise it may come loose. Not having the kick down shouldn't harm the trans but can't say what the experience would be like from the driver's point of view as it's been over 10 years since I've owned a C6-equipped vehicle.
Hey Nick my 4l60e shifts super late around 3k rpm from 1-2nd, I popped the pan off and replaced the shift solenoids and it did not fix the issue. I took it to a shop and said it needs a valve body, how do you recommend servicing the 1-2nd shift check ball, I believe that could be my issue. Thanks in advance!
Hi Andrew, thank you for watching. If your 1-2 check ball seating location is wearing and the ck ball is getting stuck, you can repair the plate with Fitzall's plate repair kit: m.ua-cam.com/video/-Y_8nfNZse8/v-deo.html&pp=ygUdNGw2MGUgc2VwYXJhdG9yIHBsYXRlIHJlcGFpciA%3D Im not sure the valve body is the problem but you can test it via the Sonnax vac test machine. What diagnosis work did the shop do to conclude the valve body needs to be replaced?
I asked them if they did a vacuum test on it, he said that my year(2008) is electrically tested instead of vacuum tested, I’m not sure what electrical testing they did, but that’s all they told me. I’m going to dive into it soon and see if the 1-2 check ball has cratered the separation plate before I order a replacement valve body, the truck only has 50,000 miles on it and the shop said they won’t put a new valve body in and offered to replace the whole transmission so I took it back home to work on myself lol. If you have any more advice I would greatly appreciate it, and I love your videos!
I would have nothing more to do with that shop. You can test all 20 years of 4L60Es electrically/electronically and via vacuum testing. I have a video on this channel showing the vacuum testing of a 2010 4L60E valve body. I think you need to find another shop that is willing to test your valve body or simply buy the Sonnax vacuum tester and test the VB yourself. If the valve body is found to have worn bores, depending on the bore that is worn out, you can either purchase drop in valves and/or bore plugs that are slightly oversized to restore sealing integrity in those locations...Commonly worn bores include the AFL valve, TCC regulator valve, forward and reverse abuse bore plug locations and (less common) the low-overrun valve, 3-4 sequencing valve and accumulator regulator valve.
Buy the early all-black (no striped gaskets). You'll need a case to plate gasket and plate to valve body gasket. You see on your existing gaskets there is a small letter laser-carved into each gasket on the right side of the gasket. The one with a "C" is the case-plate gasket. The other one goes between the plate and valve body. Used gaskets will sometimes cross-leak if they're hardened due to heat, age and general use.
Hey nick new sub! Question I lost all the foward gears in my 2004 4x4 tahoe. I was thinking maybe a checkball issue. Was wondering if I have to pull the Trans for this or if I can pull the whole valve body off
Hey Gunnerranch, thank you for the view and sub! Unfortunately, the trans will have to come out as either the forward sprag has broken, low roller clutch broke (this is the case if you have no forward movement in any gear setting on your shifter) and/or forward clutch failed. All this assumes you have reverse.
In that case, I'd find a local transmission builder well-versed on those units to do the work (most shops are). They will know what updates and upgrades to incorporate so that it's done right and you'll not have to worry about it after everything's completed.
More context to the story so I don't look like a complete moron. I bought a wrecked 2007 Hummer h3 for the motor to replace my blown 2009 Canyon. Pulled the engine and transmission and seen the transmission is brand new. The one out of the Canyon looks in rough shape.
Ah i see, makes sense...You can transfer the gears, drums, output shaft, pump but not the valve body or electronics/harness/etc as 09+ is completely different than 07 when it comes to the electrical/electronic stuff.
Hi Meangreen, I don't give out my location on UA-cam but if you want to contact me for transmission service if we happen to be in the same location, feel free to reach out to me on the Tahoeyukon.com forum...If you don't have an account, it's free to join so you can sign up and then send me a private message there (my user name is the same as it is on here).
Re-watch the vid, you'll see exactly where that 8th check ball goes :) And don't blame yourself, I've done it before...Glad you're organized enough to realize you likely forgot to put that check ball somewhere...The video will likely answer your question about the extra spring as well.
Nick thanks for your time Brother, it's a big deal to your subscribers to see your help videos, high Quality work is a great example to follow.
Thanks a bunch, Marty! Appreciate the kind words and viewership.
Thanks for doing these vids. I'm currently DIYing right now and your videos are very helpful
You're welcome and thank you for watching, man!
Took my valve body off last year and haven’t had the motivation or the need to put it back on and went to look for a video to refresh me on how it’s done and found this gem. Damn, I wish you uploaded this a couple months earlier when I did the job, lol
Thanks for the kind words, man. When did you reinstall your valve body? I published the vid last October so not sure if that was before or after you completed the job.
But you now have it in the event you need to do another one!
Really enjoyed this video! Everything was explained step by step, and instructions were easily understood!
Thanks, man!! Appreciate the view and kind words.
Hi Nick, first time viewer, man you are thorough!! I will now be a subscriber, real good info, thanks.👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the kind words, Doug!
I cannot thank you enough for responding to me and yes I absolutely will check it out
You're welcome and thank you for watching!
I have a 97 4l60e going in a 95 c1500. It was rebuilt and drove great for a little over a year, until the pump rotor broke prematurely. The trans shifted great but would rapidly surge to higher rpms at times, sorta like a passing gear. I've read 95 is a stand alone year, and I'm curious if that played a part in the pump failure. I'm rebuilding it and wanted to know are their any specifics I can do to make it work in my 95 truck and prevent another premature failure. This is my first transmission build by the way.
Hi Jimmy, the pump in the 1995-2000 4L60Es that went behind 5.0, 5.7 and 4.3L Gen 1 small blocks as well as the LT1-LT4 engines (95-97) was exactly the same...The pump failed likely due to excessive rotor/slide to pump deck surface clearance and/or excessively worn rotor was reused. The pump rings may have also failed but that's not as common a reason for pump failure in daily driven vehicles.
Sounds like the rebuild was a patch job as opposed to a complete and proper overhaul - that is my guess at the root cause behind it's early demise.
If you're going to rebuild the unit for the fist time, check out these videos first - they will get you started on the tools you need on hand and what you need to check for on tear down:
1. Tools: ua-cam.com/video/HVo0uyfdJS0/v-deo.html
2: Tear Down and Inspection: ua-cam.com/video/H3WvpNV2uFQ/v-deo.html
@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick
You're welcome, Jimmy.
wsp bro i just replcaed
my tranmssion fluid i took the valve body off to remove all the solenoids and the tcc one but after i finished installing everything and the fluid my truck doesnt go to drive or reverse and its kinda hard to do the change idk what i could of done wrong
My guess is that you either failed to connect the manual valve to the linkage arm on the rooster comb or the filter fell out/was not installed.
@@nickstransmissions preciated bro but for some reason i had connected them together but its impossible to shift to gears and the filter didn’t fell off idk if i connected it wrong, does it matter if i connected the linkage arm to the little hole in the manual valve or thats the issue since i did it that way
Your a legend bloke , from Australia 💪🇦🇺
Thanks, man! Appreciate the kind words!
@nickstransmissions hey mate, you didn't put the ball valves in????
Hey Spponser, thanks for watching...There all in there - I use thick, green assembly lube to hold them to the underside of the valve body so they don't fall out.
@nickstransmissions are you able to show me which spots they go? I did my box the other day and I believe I only had 5/6 metal balls when I took it apart and out it together, I put the box in the car and it doesn't drive so I think I might've lost a ball
Here you go (skip to 35 minutes in): m.ua-cam.com/video/EMeefT7Cbzw/v-deo.html
Would using petroleum jelly like vasoline cause no forward gears after install after first start up?
No, unless you poured a ton of it into the filter neck for some reason...
- Do you have reverse?
- Do you move forward when putting the vehicle in manual low or manual 2 on the shifter?
@@nickstransmissionsI have reverse but no forward and on my cluster once it’s out of park and it Doesn’t mark what gear I have selected
What work did you recently do to the transmission?
No forward movement in any range position but reverse works is usually low roller clutch assembly failure or you installed it backwards if the transmission was just rebuilt.
@@nickstransmissions my transmisión was completely rebuilt ran good for about 200 miles then it got a shift solenoid b stuck off code trans was stuck in 3rd . Changed solenoids and nothing . Ended up fining out the valve was stuck in the valve body so I replaced it and now that I replaced it only has reverse rest of the gears are neutral
Transmission has to come back out and gone through again; like I mentioned above, something failed inside the unit.
Do you not need a gasket for the 1-2 accumulate? I'm doing a harness removal and installing and it's in my way . I went ahead and took it off to keep productivity going but so I need to order a gasket
You do if you're running an accumulator housing base plate which you can by in the aftermarket for the V8 700R4s and 4L60Es...The smaller displacement in-line engines have base plates from the factory and take a gasket between the base plate and 1-2 acc housing.
Love your knowledge and how descriptive you are.
I have a damaged 2012 trans... with the 17 pin connector for valvebody.
I have come across a good 2008 trans with 13 pin connector. Can I use the 2012 valvebody on the 2008 trans..?
Hi Tom, thank you for the kind words. Unfortunately, no - nothing 2009+ is compatible with 2008 and back when it comes to valve bodies...Check out my video on 4L60E Interchange Rules for the details: ua-cam.com/video/4kEzgffqi7w/v-deo.html
Why not rebuild your 2008 unit?
You don't need very many special tools; in fact you'd probably spend about the same amount in tooling as you would a used 4L60E which is a big gamble in the first place...
I have a 2012. 3rd and 4th non functional. Seems to be number 1 issue on these units.
I came Across a low kms 2008.
Didn't know it was 2008 until I saw 13 pin connector.
Thank you for video clarifying cases are different.
Is the 2008 useless in this situation?
Trying to save money here. Hard times
Yes, the 2008 is basically useless for what you're trying to do. You need a 2009+ with the correct bell housing for your engine application.
I get what you're saying about trying to save money but the majority of the time, used transmissions cost you MORE money as you're paying for the used unit, plus fluid and the time you spend installing it plus the cost of the inevitable rebuild due to 3-4 clutch pack failure shortly down the road, along with the R/R fluid costs...I can't tell you how many 'used' 4L60Es I have rebuilt over the years from customers whose replacement transmissions lasted all of a few months or so before they crapped out.
Oh...I am confused. The transmissions 2012 and 2008 sitting side by side are identical. The only difference is the 2012 has 17 pin plug receiver. And the other one in question has 13 pin plug reciever
Try swapping it and see what happens....Your wiring harness and internal mode switch will also have to come over - those should install without issue though you'll need the special tool to collapse the locking tabs at the connector bore to safely remove the harness from the case (or simply buy a new harness for the replacement unit).
ETA - external appearance does not equal compatibility (at least not without some adaptation) when it comes to transmissions, though in this case you pointed out a difference between them...The difference you cited above is central to whether or not they are actually interchangeable as-is.
Nick I need your advice on a problem I have with my Ford C-6. I recently had to replace the gear shaft seal and now I’m having trouble realigning the valve body to the gear selector, especially trying to figure out the proper position of the parking actuator pawl rod (I think it’s called). I thought I had got it right but when I did a test if putting the gear selector in neutral I got under the car and tried to rotate the driveshaft by hand but it wouldn’t move. So my question is should I try putting the car in neutral and then try to reinstall the valve body?
Hi Gerald, check out my C6 rebuild vid (pt 2) and skip ahead to 49:11 where i begin to install the valve body: ua-cam.com/video/WI-1OeTb-So/v-deo.html
That should give you a good idea of what to do...let me know if you have any questions after viewing it and we can go from there.
I have a 93 silverado 4l60e transmission it has no 3rd or 4th. Couldn't that be a valve body issue?
No.
Either 3-4 pack is burnt or possibly intermittent speed sensor failure...Disconnect the transmission fuse, fire it up, put it in Drive then see if it moves...Doing this will max the line pressure and put it in 3rd gear...If it still doesn't move, 3-4 pack is wiped and trans has to come out for overhaul.
Very informative. Quick question - 4l60e in a `99 trans am is fine everywhere except on the highway, the TCC unlocks when I slightly let off of the accelerator. Shifts and TCC lock are fine. Thanks in advance!
Oh .... and I have no mil code and also disabled the TCC duty cycle in the tune.
Sounds like either electronic/command and control driven or a small leak in the TCC apply circuit, either in the valve body, input shaft (o-ring) or converter itself going out. It may also be related to your tuning but I don't have any experience in the tuning/programming side of things so you'd need to contact your tuner or consult with a tuning SME.
hey just wondering if there are any differences in the valve bodies between v6 4l60e's and v8s specifically a 2006 4l60e from a i5 colorado and a 2002/03 5.3 silverado
edit: just watched your compassion video and it seems to be from early 2006, still wondering though if I could just install the input drum assembly and forward onto the rest of the i5 trans inorder to covert it to a 300mm 30 spline from a 245mm 27 spline without any issue
Hi Bryan, thank you for watching...
You can install the 300mm input drum/shaft assembly into those transmissions as they are largely the same as the V8 versions provided that you install the correct 300mm input drum for your application...You may have to recalibrate the 1-2 shift a bit since those housings and pistons were a little different. The valve bodies are all the same except for the 1-2 accumulator regulator valve which I believe is different in the I5 versions. The difference shouldn't be consequential, esp if you install a shift kit which recalibrates that shift anyway,
The only other thing you'd have to do is swap the bell housing.
That transmission you see in this video is a 2001 unit; not sure what other video you may be referring to but you can easily tell it's not any older than 2002 by the EPC connector on the wiring harness. The 2003+ electronic pressure control solenoid changed and connector was more traditional, cube style compared to the first design.
All the above said, are you looking to just swap drums into an otherwise used transmission or are you rebuilding the 2006 unit and wanting to convert it to work with a V8 Gen3 small block?
@nickstransmissions I originally took out the engine and trans all together from the Silverado and swapped it into the 2006 Colorado since the i5 engine blew, the transmissions been sitting in the back yard until the one working on the truck got heavily abused by me and blew as well, I'm looking to covert the i5 trans into working on the 5.3 to get it back up and running. I went through the trouble of replacing the sun shell, installing a Corvette servo, replacing the 3-4 and forward pistons for the sonnax pinless accumulators while just flipping the 1-2. Realized recently I had a 27 spline instead of the 30 and wanted to know if they were interchangeable considering I also want to swap everything in front of the drum including the pump finding that there are stator support differences and I'm not quite sure yet if the one already in the truck is a wedge style or o ring style since I haven't taken it off but either way wanted info on if there was issue swapping the two. About the 1-2 shift though you think I could just get away with getting a performance regulator valve from transgo? Thanks for all the help
Edit: I've also seen people recommend a 471" Boost valve for the pump on swaps in case I wanted to reuse the i5 pump, would you know if there are any issues combining that with the rest of the V8 forward internals.
Install the Sonnax 4L60E LB1 or LB2, depending on which pump you'll be using...I think the change year was 2005 for that design so you'll need to compare the existing boost valve with what Sonnax has on their web page...I'm assuming you're completely overhauling the transmission, including replacing the forward drum bonded pistons with new ones, installing a full paper/rubber kit, bushing kit, electrical components, etc plus a new torque converter. If you doing all of the above work as described, spend a few more dollars and another hour or so doing it completely so you don't have to worry about it any more..
You don't have to worry about o-ring vs wedge seal unless you are also swapping cases...If you keep the the same pump assy with the same case it originally came from, it will be fine...Since you're working on the 4L60E from the in-line 5 engine, you'll want to use the pump body that came with that engine...Have it machined if the working surface is no good (most need machine work).
@@nickstransmissions appreciate the help, one last question, swapping the stator support is as simple as just unbolting and bolting right? or is there more work to it
It depends...Are you simply wanting to swap the stator/stator support assembly (i.e. the rear half of the pump, all together) or are you trying to swap the stator support (aluminum circular housing with all the valves, etc) to a different stator shaft?
Nick why delete the Low reverse check ball?, and shoud i use the Transgo supplied "White" spring for the AFL bore in addition to the factory spring or use the one that came from the 3-2 kick down like you normally do? , I set up my Spacer plate By the Sonnex performance pack instructions for the AFL Balance hole (.052), But taking your advice for the 1-2 (..080) 3rd (.110) and 4th (.110) Transmission has a Sonnax Super Servo, I am using a Brand New TransGo separator plate , drilling it to .052 on the AFL hole barly made there hole any bigger,
Why are you using any Transgo stuff in this build? Why are you insisting on introducing so much complexity into what sounds like your first transmission rebuild?
I advised you to put all the stuff from their shift kit on the shelf if you're using the Sonnax Performance Pack / Zip kit...Please keep it simple, follow the Sonnax instructions and leave the plate alone out side of what Sonnax tells you to do as wll as what you have already done. Keep the AFL hole as it is (.052).
Your stall speed is 2800 or greater, right? Sorry, I can't keep track of all those details but want to ensure your 3rd, BR and 4th gear orifice sizes are consistent / aligned to your converter stall.
@@nickstransmissions Yes I didnt use the TransGo kit Just the Sonnax Performance Pack kit, I was just asking about using the white spring over what you usually use from the 3-2 kick down bore, both springs seem to be about the same tension,
Yes i have a higher stall (PTC 2,800) converter, i have 3rd & 4th at .110 , second at .080 , AFL at .52, 3-2 at .093 let me know if thats right or any other holes to drill, Also if i should leave the low reverse check ball out, i know you leave the 2-3 check ball out ? thank you for the help, Ill send you more Coffee ☕ ☕ next week
Sorry, yes you can put that 3-2 downshift spring into the AFL spring for increasing your AFL pressure to solenoids.
I leave the #6 check ball which is the coast clutch flow control check ball, not the 2-3 check ball - the 2-3 check ball is in a little capsule behind the servo bore. The #6 check ball is located right next to the check ball in the bath-tub shaped formation on the underside of the valve body.
Refer to this video for more details on that check ball: ua-cam.com/video/vG807bRY4FE/v-deo.html
You can also leave the reverse check ball out or keep it in - it really doesn't matter unless you will be rapidly transitioning from drive to reverse...The most common application where that sort of driving will be done is tactical driving (ie police vehicles, emergency) or in some cases, snow plow trucks. I'd def leave it out in those cases.
@@nickstransmissions OK Got it, Thank you so much, im going to wrap this 4L60E up by tomorrow, its going in my 87 Buick T-type Regal, its a conversion car, slightly worked LS2 with small blower cam (222-234 on a 114 with .600 lift) 1- 7/8" long tube headers , custom 3" stainless duel exhaust with X pipe and blow threw mufflers , She sounds really good, East Coast Novi-2000 supercharger system, she pulls over 700 at 14 PSI, Pulls like a freight train, Anyway the curent transmission thats in the car slips in 4th i believe i mentioned this to you a while ago, i believe its the pos servo that i bought from a joe shmooo lol, I bought a new servo (corvette servo and a superior 4th apply piston/cover) to try out, all i can say is that 1st-2nd and 3rd hold strong, it does shit into 4th and holds during cruise but any touch of the throtle (30%+) and she slips, who knows maybe i grinded the pin to much, its a 2009 4L65E with a 2008 (15pin) valve body, Maybe you can help me diagnose it,
TTYS Walter
All future success to you, thanks for posting this video. I'm getting p1860 now...was p1870 but I changed one solenoid....I have a rebuilt valve body and wonder if I can better diagnose the problem instead of just using the money shotgun to see if it works...
Seems to drive fine and while I did change the one solenoid I also changed a ground strap on the engine...so...
If I had a lift I'd love to get in the game with the volt meter...but on the ground makes it such a challenge,..
Do you know anyone who you could recommend in the NJ area for such a job?
Again, best luck with the channel, please keep it up
Thank you for the kind words, John!
P1860 is the TCC solenoid itself and yes, access to that connector is very tough with the trans in the vehicle...If you did want to give it a shot, place your probes on pin E (12 volt ground) and pin T (TCC Solenoid).
Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone in Jersey as I haven't lived back there since childhood and haven't come across any reputable shops there.
Ty very much for the response. Is the solenoid in question attached to the harness permanently...or the one with the connector that clips on?
You're welcome, John....You can purchase a Fitzall TCC Solenoid that can be spliced in if you'd like - I've used them numerous times and never had an issue...
Fitzall TCC Sol: www.fitzall.com/K77929U.php
I'd also recommend installing their valve for whichever year valve body you're working on - you can browse Fitzall's website for the correct valve or search on Amazon as well...
104lb of torque for the accumulator bolts? Many searches on Google state 6-10lb of torque. Which one is it?
I have no idea what specific site or sites you've looked at but ATSG calls for 8 ft lbs, I use 104 inch lbs so as long as you're using 96 inch lbs but no more than 110 inch lbs, you'll be fine.
what about just driving home from work and the "Transmission Hot" comes on in the dash and it ends up not shifting out of first? I got home and dropped the pan and i mean there was a little bit of metal shavings from it being a 200k mile transmission but other than that nothing out of the ordinary? 2004 chevy silverado z71
That could be either TFTS (trans fluid temp sensor") is bad, the fluid is actually too hot or your VSS is bad...If an over-temp condition is detected, the PCM will typically freeze upshifts and adapts...You'll know this is the case if normal function is restored once the vehicle is allowed to sit for a while then you drive it again. If you have P1810, it's likely a bad temp switch (the temp switch is integrated into your pressure switch manifold assembly, which is that oblong thing bolted to the valve body as seen in the thumbnail image for this video.
Lastly, check your vehicle speed sensor...yours will be in the transfer case since you have a Z71. If the VSS is bad or there's a break in comms between it and the PCM, you will have no upshift from 1st gear.
@@nickstransmissions I had the same problem but instead of 1st it was 3rd should check the same things?
Nick good morning. Your video was a great help. I think I got it right now. What I did was to put the transmission in park, then position the actuator rod in position then I rotated the driveshaft until I heard it click into the prawl and lock. Then moved the shifter to neutral to verify that I could rotate the driveshaft and it worked. I will reinstall the pan today. I only have two questions, how tight should the 7/8 nut be? I tightened it but not excessively and should the c6 kickdown without the original kickdown rod as I use Fitech efi and the rod won’t work. Thanks again very much for your help
Good morning! I'd tighten up that selector shaft retention nut otherwise it may come loose. Not having the kick down shouldn't harm the trans but can't say what the experience would be like from the driver's point of view as it's been over 10 years since I've owned a C6-equipped vehicle.
Hey man you rotated the main drive shaft right? My truck is 4wd so was wondering which one you rotated
Hey Nick my 4l60e shifts super late around 3k rpm from 1-2nd, I popped the pan off and replaced the shift solenoids and it did not fix the issue. I took it to a shop and said it needs a valve body, how do you recommend servicing the 1-2nd shift check ball, I believe that could be my issue. Thanks in advance!
Hi Andrew, thank you for watching. If your 1-2 check ball seating location is wearing and the ck ball is getting stuck, you can repair the plate with Fitzall's plate repair kit: m.ua-cam.com/video/-Y_8nfNZse8/v-deo.html&pp=ygUdNGw2MGUgc2VwYXJhdG9yIHBsYXRlIHJlcGFpciA%3D
Im not sure the valve body is the problem but you can test it via the Sonnax vac test machine.
What diagnosis work did the shop do to conclude the valve body needs to be replaced?
I asked them if they did a vacuum test on it, he said that my year(2008) is electrically tested instead of vacuum tested, I’m not sure what electrical testing they did, but that’s all they told me. I’m going to dive into it soon and see if the 1-2 check ball has cratered the separation plate before I order a replacement valve body, the truck only has 50,000 miles on it and the shop said they won’t put a new valve body in and offered to replace the whole transmission so I took it back home to work on myself lol. If you have any more advice I would greatly appreciate it, and I love your videos!
I would have nothing more to do with that shop. You can test all 20 years of 4L60Es electrically/electronically and via vacuum testing. I have a video on this channel showing the vacuum testing of a 2010 4L60E valve body.
I think you need to find another shop that is willing to test your valve body or simply buy the Sonnax vacuum tester and test the VB yourself. If the valve body is found to have worn bores, depending on the bore that is worn out, you can either purchase drop in valves and/or bore plugs that are slightly oversized to restore sealing integrity in those locations...Commonly worn bores include the AFL valve, TCC regulator valve, forward and reverse abuse bore plug locations and (less common) the low-overrun valve, 3-4 sequencing valve and accumulator regulator valve.
Can I reuse valve body gaskets?
Sure but given they cost a dollar each new, I would not recommend it....
@@nickstransmissions appreciate the awnser I just took mine out and gona give it a wipe down. I have a 1993 trying to make sure I get the right one.
Buy the early all-black (no striped gaskets). You'll need a case to plate gasket and plate to valve body gasket. You see on your existing gaskets there is a small letter laser-carved into each gasket on the right side of the gasket. The one with a "C" is the case-plate gasket. The other one goes between the plate and valve body.
Used gaskets will sometimes cross-leak if they're hardened due to heat, age and general use.
@@nickstransmissions thanks for the input my friend!
Hey nick new sub! Question I lost all the foward gears in my 2004 4x4 tahoe. I was thinking maybe a checkball issue. Was wondering if I have to pull the Trans for this or if I can pull the whole valve body off
Hey Gunnerranch, thank you for the view and sub! Unfortunately, the trans will have to come out as either the forward sprag has broken, low roller clutch broke (this is the case if you have no forward movement in any gear setting on your shifter) and/or forward clutch failed. All this assumes you have reverse.
@nickstransmissions I do have reverse. Thank you! Cheaper to buy a reman or rebuild?
You're welcome, man...It's always cheaper to rebuild your own, especially if you want to upgrade it.
@nickstransmissions man I would myself if I was good enough to do all that I mean I tinker and stuff. But seems complicated haha
In that case, I'd find a local transmission builder well-versed on those units to do the work (most shops are). They will know what updates and upgrades to incorporate so that it's done right and you'll not have to worry about it after everything's completed.
Should I take out my low reverse check ball? I assume it just helps with fluid flow?
Up to you...no check ball = firmer engagement in reverse...
I have a rebuilt 07 4l60, is it possible to swap over all the different components from a 09?
Why would you want to swap anything from another transmission into a freshly rebuilt transmission?
@@nickstransmissions it's an 07 it won't work in my 09 Canyon as it sits
More context to the story so I don't look like a complete moron. I bought a wrecked 2007 Hummer h3 for the motor to replace my blown 2009 Canyon. Pulled the engine and transmission and seen the transmission is brand new. The one out of the Canyon looks in rough shape.
Ah i see, makes sense...You can transfer the gears, drums, output shaft, pump but not the valve body or electronics/harness/etc as 09+ is completely different than 07 when it comes to the electrical/electronic stuff.
Good video thank you for posting
Thanks, man - appreciate the feedback.
Are you in nevada by any chance?
Hi Meangreen, I don't give out my location on UA-cam but if you want to contact me for transmission service if we happen to be in the same location, feel free to reach out to me on the Tahoeyukon.com forum...If you don't have an account, it's free to join so you can sign up and then send me a private message there (my user name is the same as it is on here).
@@nickstransmissions reason i ask, i thought i saw a nv plate in this video lol
Idea for video: I would guess that the DIYer's know little to nothing about checking servo pin length. Might be usefull.
Agree, it would be very helpful as a stand-alone vid. Will aim to get one on the channel soon!
Me again dude... why do I have 8 balls? Am I going crazy I put 7 like you did and I just found one on my bench lol. Also an extra spring?
Re-watch the vid, you'll see exactly where that 8th check ball goes :)
And don't blame yourself, I've done it before...Glad you're organized enough to realize you likely forgot to put that check ball somewhere...The video will likely answer your question about the extra spring as well.
@@nickstransmissions found it lol, I was doing opposite. Tranny still in truck and VB on bench!
Shows every detail except check ball locations in vavlve body..lol..great vids though.
Huh? I show all the check ball locations in the valve body. Watch it again, skip to 12:57.