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Hi THP, thank you for the kind words! I have experienced a few bumps and hicuups within the first five to seven drive cycles with these transmissions as they ease back into working again after overhaul...The fast adapt relearns are usually good for 99-100% but every now and again, final adaptations will take place in those first few drive cycles or so...If it keeps happening after that, I'd conduct a full diagnostic to pinpoint the source of the problem. Did you replace the TEHCM and install a valve body correction kit like the Sonnax Zip kit or Transgo Reprogramming kit?

Hi Dickmick - thank you for watching and the compliments! My torque converter builder/machinist re-works all of my pumps for me, though I'll be taking on the machine work myself in the next year or two as I will be purchasing a mill, lathe, tooling, etc. I haven't had any issues with the Sonnax acc springs, my problem has always been with Transgo's. Transmissions coming in for overhaul frequently have broken springs upon tear down when Transgo's shift kits have been installed previously...It's not super common but happens enough that I've shied away from using their springs in the shift kits... I'll keep an eye out for Sonnax spring failures though, and stop using them if it starts to happen.

Hi John, thank you for watching! I'd look into the Alto Powerpack...There's a couple different versions, one that comes with high energies and another that comes with their red eagle clutches and kolene steels...The 4L65E pack is a good pack as well, just make sure you have the 4L65E apply and backing plate set...Run your clearance down to .030-.035 and reinstall the factory load release springs as they will prevent drag when clearance is on the tighter side.

Thanks again, man! Have you watched my 4L80E tear down and inspection video? If not, it's in my 4L80E playlist and goes into fine detail about what to inspect as well as how to do assess parts for reuse or replacement: ua-cam.com/play/PLMqgQ_reThtIAoJjdlytIWnmlH04YqYz-.html Lastly, check out my valve body and pump Vacuum testing videos were I demonstrate how to properly assess sealing integrity and general condition of the transmission's hydraulic circuitry.

@@nickstransmissions I found the playlist shortly after posting this and I am making my way through it. Awesome content with good audio. Again, thanks for putting it all together.

Sounds good, man - let me know if you have any questions and we can go from there.

Hi Ryan, thank you for watching and your kind words...Here's my responses to your questions: 1. Temp fixes: Unfortunately, there really isn't anything you can do if the transmission is slipping if it was behaving perfectly normal prior to the cooler line snapping off - more than one clutch pack was likely severely damaged and unit will need to come out; front pump may have also been scored and valve body impaired 2. Autozone Transmissions: Everything you ever wanted to know about whether or not you should buy an Autozone transmission and torque converter can be viewed here: ua-cam.com/video/uNBPatT1E7M/v-deo.html I would have a competent builder go through the transmission, rebuilding it with all the requisite updates and enhancements - check out my 6R80 Rebuild Series for more info: ua-cam.com/play/PLMqgQ_reThtKmjEGphcZc-lhCJhNRWHCF.html

Great idea, Larry - I'll look to do a video on that soon as we see tons of issues as it relates to parts from the aftermarket...In order to make the video visually impactful, I'll have to start keeping the defects instead of turning them back in..I recently got a pair of 47RE pump gears from Transtar that wouldn't fit into the pump's gear pocket - I should have kept them but maybe will buy another set to see if I can get another defect...

@@nickstransmissions I just got a 6L80 pump gear kit. Couldn’t get the vanes to fully insert, on one side. The slide wasn’t machined All the way down. On just one side. 🤔 Also 6L80, the 3-5-R hub bushing oil groove, only machined about 3/4 of the way into the bushing. I can keep going. lol 62TE fiascos. Not once, but twice. On reman units from Chrysler.

Resembles some of my experience with pumps...Back when I was still buying 4L60E reman pumps from Transtar, every so often, I'd get a core in remanufactured packaging. A few times, I received a pump that was fully gone through but had no vanes, lol...No big deal in those cases...A few times the body was freshly machined but the stator support was still all scored up...I have my machinist recondition/resurface all my pumps these days and I will be buying a lathe and mill in the next year or so and bring all that and similar machining in-house.

Hi Nomebear, thank you for watching! Yep, these types of failures are cataclysmic from a cost-overrun stand point for many units but luckily the aggregate cost of all the additional parts wasn't too bad plus there's a shortage of these late model Jeep 904s in my area - no one had any cores which is what we tried first...

Thank you for the kind words, Boosted Beaver! I appreciate the views and feedback.

Hi Hot_Rod_Lincoln, thank you for the kind words. Do you recall what your front end play was when putting the transmission together? This would have been the forward travel of the input shaft...I'm wondering if you actually have negative end play (i.e. an interference fit) between the pump and drums (pump-rev input drum-forward drum).

Thank you for the kind words, Charlie! Appreciate it. For a rebuild quote, please reach out to me via Tahoeyukonforum.com. My name on there is Nicktransmissions - you can send me a private message and I'll respond back as soon as I can.

Hi Leo, grab a Transgo 46-PLT-07: res.cloudinary.com/transgo/wbiss/sc/46-PLT-07.pdf. These don't require the bonded gaskets - you will want to install the gaskets with the orange striping as opposed to the white striping. Thank you for watching!

Hi PDaddy - Code P1825 is for the internal mode switch. Additionally, the TEHCM doesn't report your gear/range position to the dash indicator, the mode switch does so I'd say your mode switch is going bad. The fifth channel, Channel N is what reports P/N signal to the PCM directly so if that fails, you will no longer be able to start the vehicle. You can drop the pan and perform the testing that I demonstrate in the video to confirm or deny, that is what I'd do next. I'd grab a new IMS before doing so - this way you can swap it in...You will also need a Snap On 10EPL socket so you can remove the 'starfish' bolt that secures the IMS to the rest of the assembly (the other bolt takes a conventional 8mm hex socket).

Hi David, I actually discuss those in that video series; I think starting with the direct drum build up.

@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick. These are just parts i had laying around.

Yep, very common. I mention it frequently in my videos and on the various forums I'm on.

Hi Joseph, Im in the Southwest; SoCal area...Where are you located?

@@nickstransmissions Too far away! SE Tennessee

Gotcha...I'm looking into shipping/freight options for those that want to ship transmissions for overhaul...I'll publish a video once I have my ducks in a row...

Restrictions in the cooler lines and/or cooler(s) are the primary reasons for minimal to no lube to the gear train...Another cause is failing to install the input-output shaft junction seal, using a plastic seal or a viton seal that has hardened over time.

@@nickstransmissions thank you for your response. I checked the parts you suggested, I can't find a problem with any of that. I took out the aluminum slugs for the tcc lock up and put in the valve train that's supost to lock it up on its own, and left the part that goes in the pump Unplugged. Would that cause a restriction??

Sorry, I have no idea as I'm having trouble understanding what you're trying to tell me... First, let's back up a few steps and have you give me some background on what's happening, including year/model vehicle, when it started, what work was previously performed, etc. I thought you were just asking a general question, not trying to trouble shoot an actual problem with your vehicle. What part was left 'unplugged'? Consult the ATSG manual, use the terms they use for each part you're describing. LMK

Great tip, Jay - thank you for watching!

@@nickstransmissions love the vids! I recommend an Allison tear down and build tutorial. 👌🏽

Thanks, man - Yep that will happen soon!

@@nickstransmissions I’ll be patiently waiting

Hi MLR, There should have been two 1/4-inch check balls on the valve body itself and the 5/16" TV relief / safety check ball that GM began to install in 1984 or 85... Thank you for watching!

Hi Brokenwing...I don't think it matters, at least I've never paid attention to it in all the TH400s I've done. You can re-watch the video to see what side was facing towards the worm tracks when I reinstall the 3-2 throttle valve sleeve and mirror that if you'd like...That particular transmission has been on the road since the last rebuild video was published.

@@nickstransmissions Thank you! It looked like you had it facing up or to the case, wasn't sure or if it mattered. All the diagrams online don't show enough detail and no one made a distinction between one side or the other, didn't notice the difference until assembly. I didn't want to screw this up after all the work I put into my trans. I appreciate your help, THANKS again!

You're welcome, man!

Thanks for watching and the kind words, James - Appreciate it!

Thanks, man! I'll be doing a few videos on the Sonnax reamers, fixture and jig set up showing the remanufacturing of 4L60E and 4L80E valve bodies plus others in the near future.

It's there now along with a link to the ATSG manual.

Wow, thanks for the link. Much appreciated

@@nickstransmissions thanks

Thanks, Ross...You can also use a 90 degree pick that you round off to minimize your chances of damaging anything or scoring the bores up.

Hi ServentofYahuwah, thank you for watching...If everything air checks fine on the bench, you should be ok with the lip seals that you initially installed during the rebuild...Clean out the entire case so it's free of any contaminants, replace (or turn) the reverse drum and replace the band and you should be good.

Here you go, man: ua-cam.com/video/PXM3NnC6oVc/v-deo.html Apart from things like the valve body, the 4L60E HP build strategy shown in that video will apply to the 700R4s as well.

Hi Tim, sorry to hear...Sounds like the OD clutch pack has burnt...Drop the pan, see what's at the bottom..If the fluid is black, smells burnt then you'll need to yank it for overhaul..You can check out my 4L80E rebuild videos for a thorough step by step review of the process.

@@nickstransmissions What if there are no signs in the fluid?

Highly unlikely if the overdrive clutch burned; fluid will black, smell real bad. If he just doesnt upshift to fouth (ie pcm is not commanding or it is but valve body/solenoids arent responding, that's a different problem with different diag procedure. Bi-dir Scan tool with live data can be used to see if a shift is being commanded and/or command it to rule in or out electrical/electronic problems.

@@nickstransmissions You have a recommendation for such scan tool for OBD-1?

For GM vehicles, I'd look for a TECH-1A for anything 82-91 and a TECH2 for anything 92-2013. If you need a tool that works across multiple makes/models, look at Snap On's scan tools. Their ODB1 line up uses multiple ALDL adaptors for each manufacturer and is compatible with most of their Modis, Solus and Verus line of scan tools.

Good on you for buying one (too many DYIers don't for some reason) - You'll likely frequently use it for at least the next 20 years; it will pay for itself hundreds of times over during that period. I know mine has...

@@nickstransmissions correct, im doing my own car for first and maybe last time, but I figured the press could serve me a lifetime for other projects anyways 🤷‍♂️ $200 down the drain! 😎

Thanks again, Jordan!

Thank you for the kind words, Dave! The aluminum shavings are concerning...They likely came from the pump but could have also come from the 2nd gear servo, case or stator in the torque converter. If they're from the pump, first vacuum test the pump's boost and PR circuit. Then, assuming it passes, simply have the pump stator support resurfaced on a lathe. Have the pump body's rotor/slide pocket milled to the proper depth for clearance and resurfaced as well. Replace the torque converter and install a second gear servo (Corvette servo is fine for most applications). Polish the valve body bores with bench buddies to ensure the valves drop into their respective locations under their own weight when held vertically over the bore or aluminum sleeve in the case of the throttle valves. Lastly, check-made any potential line rise concerns by installing Sonnax's TV sleeve and plunger kit... Let me know if you have any more questions.

@@nickstransmissions Thank you so much for the reply and guidance. Very much appreciated.

You're welcome, Dave! Good luck with the rebuild, let me know if you have any more questions.

@@nickstransmissions I got the transmission apart today and found a few things I'd like to run by you. In the case there is a valve installed which I have not seen in any videos or pictures. After searching the internet I believe it is a Servo Release Check valve. I can see that it extends into the servo cavity. It kinda looks like it is in a little cock and looks like someone has hammered it in. We ran a straight edge across the surface and found that it sets proud of the surface. The seperator plate has a dent as a result. Also the seperator place is a Transgo 700-P and someone has installed plugs to close out two of the holes in the plate. Those plugs look like they were swedged or pounded flat and then sanded. They are still not completely flat with the plate. With these two items could that be causing the 1-2 shift issue I was seeing? would it keep the valve body from totally sealing? Do you think if I file the top of the servo release check valve flush with the surface and get a new seperator plate that i might fix the shifting issue? One other thing is the check ball for the 1-2 shift. There is a lot of wear in the pocket. How much wear is too much? The rest of the transmission looks ok. took the front pump apart and it looks good too with no major wear or grooves in the machined surfaces.

Did you watch this video at all?

yes .. briefly

Your question is related to a GM 4T45E which is why I was asking, since you're not going to find any answers in this video which covers Dodge 4-speed transmissions. Your transmission has to come out for overhaul, the direct clutch has burnt up, drum needs to be replaced...Common problem with that family of transaxles. I may start rebuilding those transmissions in the near future so keep an eye out and subscribe if you haven't already so you can be notified when something hits the channel.

❤ 🌹🌹thank you very much🌹🌹❤

Thanks, Prochargedmopar!

You can definitely make your own if you have the materials and tooling needed (unfortunately, I don't nor do I have the skills, lol) but to answer your question - yes, use the gaskets as a guide. If yo need a plate quick, purchase the applicable Transgo separator plate based on the year of your 4L80E.

@@nickstransmissions Perfect! I’ll see what I can do! And yep I’ve already got the transgo hd2 kit

DO NOT use that kit...It's a complete waste of money for 4L80Es...Send it back, get your $$$ back...If you want to dual feed (which that kit does but through that stupid sandwich plate which is prone to cross leaks), simply plug the high-reverse feed passage in the case with a 3/8 inch cup plug (use red loctite or RTV on the outer dia of the plug), leave off the 2nd from top sealing ring off the center support, leave out the center seal in the direct drum and drill the 2-3 feed to .080-.085 if keeping the 2-3 and 3-4 accumulator complex active on the valve body. The cup plug costs like .50 cents. Install the Sonnax 4L80E-LB1 boost valve kit and, if you want, their matching pressure regulator valve. Those HD2 kits come with that pressure relief mod as well - DO NOT INSTALL IT! Send that it back...

I may have already messed up then, tranny is all but built up, and already did The modifications and installations of parts of the hd2 kit to the valve body and pump. What’s my best option you’d recommend

Reverse everything, take the HD2 kit parts back out (except for the direct clutch high-rate return springs-you can leave those in) and install the above parts I mentioned. Perform the above dual feed process as described...If you drilled the hole for that pressure relief mod you can either tig-weld the hole shut, tap and install a very short set screw or plug it off with JB weld/similar product. Unfortunately you're prob stuck with that kit insofar as not being able to get all of your money back but maybe you can sell it for like .30-.50 cents on the dollar to recoup some $$. When you initially wrote, "the only plate I'm finding...." - were you referring to the separator plate that came in the HD2 kit or something else? The way you wrote the question seemed to imply you were looking for a separator plate and didn't have one or had one that was so damaged it wasn't useable and that you hadn't yet started your rebuild.

Thanks again, Matt! I believe all GM torque converter bolt patterns up through at least the 6L transmissions are the same...That said, you should also consider engine balance method (internal vs external) whenever swapping flex plates from different years, vintages of engine.

@@nickstransmissions thanks for the clarification, Nick!

You're welcome, Matt!

Hi, thanks for watching... That's really subjective as it will vary from person to person, depending on experience, abilities, etc... Based on what you saw in the video, how long do you think it would take to get through all the steps shown, once you have all the required parts off the transmission and on the bench?

@@nickstransmissions so I’m not smart enough to do what you do. However, my transmission guy is telling me eight hours… he believes he hast to take the transmission out.

For the SK700 JR shift kit? LOL! I'd do it yourself...There's five components you need to work on: 1) Valve Body 2) 1-2 acc housing 3) separator plate 4) Servo assy 5) Pump The only thing that goes into the pump from that kit is the pressure regulator spring, though I'd install a .472 boost and .300 reverse boost valve assemblies while you're at it...Pump stays where it is, you just remove the eye-loop style snap ring to take out the stock pressure regulator spring and install the Transgo spring. The valve body video you just watched plus my 700R4 rebuild series is all you really need to do the job. If you're smart, you won't let someone rip you off for 8 hours to install a kit that DOES NOT require the transmission to be taken out of the vehicle. Visit Transgo's website or type in "SK700-R4 JR shift kit instructions" in your browser's search bar and you'll find the instructions...Read them over, get a sense for what's involved then watch my 700R4 rebuild series where I show you step by step how to install all those parts and what to do when it comes to the spacer plate. ETA: Ask him to explain to you why he thinks the transmission has to come out to install that kit and let me know what he says...

@@nickstransmissions I believe he stated something about access to the pump. I don’t know he’s old. I may go by there tomorrow and show him the kit. I don’t think he realizes what’s in it. obviously you don’t think eight hours. What do you think he’s a transmission guy he’s just old and old school not to mention. The car is old and God only knows if he ever installed one of these. I’m sure he can. I just don’t think he has. He’s done several rear ends for me in the past.

Let him know the pump does not have to come out to install the kit...Feel free to refer him to my 700R4 Rebuild Series part 1 where I work on the pump. The only thing he needs to do is remove the boost / rev boost valve and install the Transgo PR spring (though id install new .472 boost/.300 rev boost at that time. He should also install the Sonnax TV plunger and sleeve kit to proactively fix the insufficient line rise problem those vbs are known for. Here's my 700R4 Rebuild Series, PT1: m.ua-cam.com/video/gHxV-te0EKk/v-deo.html&pp=iAQB

Haha, yep...Have had a 4L60E 3-4 shift valve bore plug smack me in the face a long time ago because I didn't leave my finger over it when removing the retainer clip.

Hi Bobby, are you referring to the intermediate band or low reverse band? If intermediate band, what specific variant (46RH/RE, 47RH/RE or 48RE)?

@@nickstransmissions i would say on both, never seem video of them being set up , how much clearance. Oh and just asking.? Just curious. Lol

Ok...the intermediate band has a different 'back-off' count for different variants...For example, 48REs, you back off 1-3/4 turns after torquing the adjustment screw to 72 in lbs. while 47s take 1-7/8 and the 46s take 2-7/8s turns. The difference is driven by the ratio of the band lever used..If you went with a numerically higher ratio, you'd back it off a little less than with a lower ratio. The low reverse band is 72 inch lbs across all variants then back off 2 turns for the 46s and 3 turns for the 47s and 48s.

@@nickstransmissions thank I guess I haven't been paying attention. Thank u for ur help.?

Thanks, Laska - appreciate the view and feedback...I've been doing that lately with those shafts - got a very thin, fine rat-tail file for those and it works great...

Thank you, @rottifan77!

Huh? I show all the check ball locations in the valve body. Watch it again, skip to 12:57.

Thanks, Trucker! I have never actually used that kit before but yes, you can install your own springs...You'll need to also acquire a different 1-2 shift valve train as well as springs for the 2-3 shift/shuttle valve that the Transgo 3 kit provides...All of these mods basically defeat mechanically forced upshifts and downshifts when engine speeds hit certain thresholds in an automatic shift pattern unit, giving you full manual control of all shifts.

@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick, I'll look into that.

You're welcome.

Thanks, Georgiaboy! Yep, they are.

Sorry, I don't speak Spanish but perhaps you can use a translator app of some sort to have the video transcription in your native language.

Hey Larry, thanks again for watching...What issues have you had with the CBV valve bodies and with what units? I'd be curious to hear of your experiences....

@@nickstransmissions My issues have alway been with the Ford valve bodies. Both the 4R75 and the 4R55 units. The 4R55 units more often than not, have been incorrectly assembled. Specifically the solenoid bracket. The 4R75 units have been 50/50 on if they have a stuck valve creating a neutral at stop condition. I have gotten to the point of just doing them myself. And completely inspecting them before I use them. The sad part is, I am only. An hour and a half from them.

Wow, that's not good...thanks, will have to look out for that...Assuming you've brought the issues to Donny's attention - what did he say?

@@nickstransmissions I have not talked to Donnie, or anyone there. We get our stuff, including the valve bodies. From a local vendor in Oklahoma City. The same vendor builds our torque converters. We tell them the problem and they just exchange it. Or refund the money to our account. But I find it faster, to just fix it. If at all possible, and move to the next one in line. Last week seemed to be 6R140 week. The week before was 6R80 week. And this week is 6L80/4L60 week. We are due for front wheel drive week. Lol

Haha! Yep, they seem to come in bunches like that...I find most 6L80/6R80 and all like-kind units require at least some correction...Lots of PR and solenoid regulator valve problems with the 6Rs and TCC reg, compensator feed issues with the 6Ls.

Thank you, Jordan!

Hi Ross, if you do a lot of 4L60Es the Sonnax reamers and fixture set up are worth it as you'll find yourself using them relatively frequently. There's also the drop in stuff which, as you've seen, doesn't always get the job done given the amount of wear that may be present.

Thanks, Loffy...4R70 Gear swaps into AODs are done primarily because folks don't want to spend the $$$ on aftermarket transmission controllers and many are retro-ing the AODs into vehicles that originally took 3-speed C4s or C6s to obtain overdrive. So they want pure mechanical command and control, no computers. If you plan on running a 4R70W you'll need a transmission controller...I'd also recommend a billet stub shaft and performance sun shell among other things, given the power output of your engine.

@@nickstransmissions Thank you for your quick reply, is there a one stop shop to buy these parts? Would you mind listing what I need to buy and change.. maybe there is a kit? For me its just fun to do it as good as it can be as I will rebuild it anyway so better to do it then. ( I mean all the internals to swap for better strengt) Do you have any plans to do a performance upgrade assembly video, sure like to see it.

You're welcome...Everything needed is listed in the video however you'll have to recalibrate the 2-3 back out valve in the valve body, otherwise you'll stack-shift from 2nd to 3rd gear due to the diff gear ratios. The best thing to do is grab a 1998+ 4R70W or 4R75 core from the junk yard, try to find one in a wrecked vehicle since the trans was working at the time of the accident. Those will have everything you need, parts-wise plus you may be able to sell some of other parts you don't use to offset costs. You can tell a 98+ via the black electrical connector (93-97 connectors are white)...The reason you want a 98+ is the mechanical diode one-way clutch installed onto the reverse input drum. Those were stronger than the traditional roller-style OWC in the earlier units. I'm hoping to get another AOD in the door where someone wants to do that...The customer was contemplating doing that with the AOD shown in the rebuild series on the channel now but decided against due to cost considerations. Please subscribe if you haven't already so you'll know when more AOD videos appear on the channel. TIA!

@@nickstransmissions Already subscribed, looking forward to more updates. And once againg thank you for taking the time to reply, it helps me a-lot.

Awesome - thanks man! You're welcome, let me know if you have any more questions.

Thank you, Lonepine55! Did these symptoms begin to occur only after you installed the shift kit or were they present prior to the shift kit? Did you modify the governor in any way?

@@nickstransmissions The governor was modified as stated in the shift kit instructions

Did these symptoms appear before or only after the shift kit install (see my initial reply)? Another question is - was modification required? What vehicle, application (DD, street / strip, racing, etc) and what converter stall? Most of the time, you don't have to modify the governor unless you require later shift points owing to a higher stall converter behind an engine with a performance cam.

@@nickstransmissions The transmission in the 1955 GMC in my profile pic with a mild 383 sbc and 373 gears in the back its just a cruiser. The torque converter is a 1800-2000. I followed the Transgo SK 700-G instruction and yes I changed the springs in the governor to the high performance springs. The original reason for rebuilding the tranny was that the bearing behind the front reaction gear set failed and destroyed that gear set. It shifted fine before the failure, I wish I would of left the valve train alone. Looking for help to complete the project

I see...Based on your gear ratio and engine (383), the governor is likely not your problem. I have never used that kit, never thought it was necessary as I can get modify the valve body as needed on my own. Sounds like 3-4 shift or throttle valve may be sticking but just a guess... Your best bet may be to simply grab another 700R4 valve body from the junk yard and pop it on, see what happens (esp if you didn't keep track of where all the original springs went)...Just check all the valve trains on the replacement valve body, make sure everything moves freely. Grab a set of gaskets for the separator plate as well, in case one or both get torn. Also make sure you get a valve body identical to the one you currently have, if you're working on an 82-87 700R4 (early)...If you install an early 700R4 on a late case (1988+), you'll need to plug a couple holes - if this becomes the situation, just visit Transgo's website, click on their 700-P separator plate's page then go to 'Documents'. They have the instructions there showing you what holes need to be plugged based on what valve body you have (early or late). Lastly, (if you haven't already done so) do a pressure test prior to any road test. This ensures you confirm that your TV cable set up and adjustment is correct...TV cables slightly out of adjustment can lead to a variety of drivability symptoms, including premature clutch pack failure, as you know.

Thanks, Tom! Yep, have had good success thus far with CVBs products. I may do a more in-depth video on one of their valve bodies in the near future...