Thank you for being here! If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
Understood. Chances are, the 3-4 Clutch is smoked. Super common problem on this transmission. As the name implies, the 3-4 Clutch is partially responsible for 3rd gear and 4th gear.
I have a 1997 c1500 with 4l60e 1-piece case. Keep getting P0758 and have replaced both A and B shift solenoids. I can command them on /off through PCM and voltage drop occurs …they work . Can mechanical problem in valve body or transmission still cause P0758? No debris or clutch material found in pan …clean with normal metallic sludge on magnet
Is the trans missing/skipping 2nd or 3rd gear? What's the history on trans? High mileage unit? Recently rebuilt? To answer your question... Yes, there are mechanical, and hydraulic, problems that can exist in the valve-body, that can cause this code. Shoot me some more info, and I'll see if I can get you pointed in the right direction.
I've only watched this one video of yours and I am coming to the conclusion quickly and I believe you may have the best transmission videos on the internet at least for explaining to the beginner thank you for your service
That would be great! Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
you could do alot worsethan watching and listening to this channel. Even my girlfriend(not very mechanically inclined)undrstood the content. cheers frrom Calgary.
using that color coding to show the inner workings of the 4L60E transmission is a quality mark of a genius. No hesitations in your explanations and smooth talking puts your web page at the top of the list compared to what i seen in other show and tells. You are the grand master of your intellect for perpetrating such awesome detail to your audience. Kudo's go out to you sir.
I can't thank you enough to help me understand this type of transmission down to every detail. Transmissions were always a "hands off" thing to me because of their complexity making them so intimidating. Your videos really paid because they make understanding this transmission so easily. I've watched many other videos and they still left me scratching my head. So again sir, thank you for taking the time to make these videos to help people like me get the best understanding and gain the knowledge from a true expert. 👍👍
Right on! Glad to hear that. Your interest in this subject is appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line. PS I've got plans of making more video content, like this. Just a matter of time...
Thanks for 'arming' folks with some more knowledge! Seriously, that was well played sir! Great work! I like to teach people the basics in a powershift transmission, which is extremely similar to a complex 'auto' trans, but without any of the valving. Usually 1-3 clutch stacks and a F/R stack. That's it.
The positive feedback is appreciated. John Deere power-shift? Right on! Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks It took me a few views to fealize thatyou only ha d the one hand, just goes to show that you can fix a tranny with only one hand as long as you have the motivaton to overcome problems in life
Love your videos. So clear with great visual explanations and animations. They are perfect. You obviously put alot more work into your videos than just turning on a recording camera. I'm gonna watch more ot them.
Excellent explanation....No such detailed videos on internet about automatic transmission......This is the best channel for learning automatic transmission....
New subscriber as of right now. You got me hooked. I do a lot of my own work and I’m playing with the concept of a 4L60E in my race truck instead of the th350 and this just solved my issue.
The positive feedback is appreciated. PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
I loved it.🎉 Watched it in 1.75x and still got everything smooth into my brain 🧠 Now I'll have more proper knowledge while going to the mechanic and resolving my Toyota Harrier / Lexus Rx330 gearbox problem
@SouthpawAutoworks BTW I got my transmission replaced for the peace of mind 😅 The shifts are smooth, it is just that when I floor the car. The gear takes lag to shift and a bit of aggressive shift. Perhaps can consider this from a V6 engine 3mz
What an amazingly detailed video. Mine randomly slips while in 4th gear so I got the shift solenoids & torque converter pwm solenoid, hoping that fixes the problem, but I really wanted more information on how those solenoids work and what they do. This video is a big help in understanding how the transmission works. I subscribed.
Here's a video dedicated to the shift solenoids. 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): ua-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/v-deo.html That condition could be caused by a number of things. Hoping to get back to creating more 4L60E videos, soon. Got a lot of different topics to cover, including this one. Currently busy working on a TH400 build series. ua-cam.com/play/PLMK9OC5NGhbgVgAwDO_rCGFF38T1LjkS7.html The positive feedback (and the subscription) is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line.
I really appreciate all that you do it helps tremendously my question is I recently changed the oil and filter in my 4l60e the reason for this is when I reach 30 mph its like it goes into neutral while I had the pan and off out of the way I was checking out the shift solenoids when I pushed in on them the one closest to the front of the transmission it would come back out on it's own the other one I had to pull it back out is this normal or should they be charged because it is still doing the same thing as before
Regarding the solenoids, that's normal. One solenoid is under spring tension. The other is not. If the trans is trying to shift into 3rd gear, and instead of getting 3rd gear, it feels like neutral, chances are that the 3-4 Clutch is failing. As the name implies, it partially responsible for creating both 3rd gear and 4th gear. It's a very common failure point on the 4L60E.
Very great information. I plan on using your videos in our class at our Tech Center to help my students understand automatic transmissions. Outstanding. Great visuals.
Great video and very informative. I have a question… I have a 1995 Camaro that seems to be missing second gear. First gear pulls normal however it won’t shift to second, if you lead off of the throttle it will jump straight to third and then fourth operates totally normal as well. If you step on the throttle enough to where it goes to downshift into second gear it will just rev almost like neutral. Can you help me out diagnosing this? Thanks
Thank you foe the clear explanation, please explain also about the accumulator, what is the function while several case 4l60e harsh shift 1-2 while the plastic accumulator is tear and wear. Thx
November 5, 2022- Follow up to my 2nd post. Received the PCM I bought on Ebay ( by Flashmasters) and it fixed the transmission immediately. No more Shift solenoid B Fault and no more default 3rd gear. I was almost defeated after rebuilding an obviously burned up transmission only to install it and have the same fault that I started with. So, pay close attention to your scan tool solenoid open/short to ground/short to volt faults, because it very well could be the PCM. It is natural to assume an old truck has wiring harness issues, but don't overlook the PCM itself . And don't assume your vehicle only has one problem....in this case the tranny was indeed burned up but the PCM was also completely defective, because its internal volt meter was permanently stuck on 0V as it activated and monitored the B solenoid
Im currently having a shift solenoid b stuck off problem truck feels like it’s in limp mode completely rebuild transmission brand new shift solenoids brand new pcm from flashmasters tested harness from pcm to solenoid wires all check out anything I could be missing???
My 4l60e sometimes doesn't shift to first. No codes. New GM solenoids 2 years ago. The the thing is an 05 with 218k though. I know it's wore out. The friction material removed from the pan was ridiculous 2 years ago. The truck has been jumping on startup for months now. I imagine those cluches metal to metal.
That is a lot of miles, and friction material in the pan is never a good thing. You might wanna check out this video. Along the same lines... ua-cam.com/video/4qXqzWFKPI0/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks pulled the trans last week. The front left checkball was stuck in the separator plate and the 3/4 clutch teeth were half worn away. Going good now.
The front-most check-ball is used during the 1-2 up-shift, and the 2-1 down-shift. It's common for that check-ball to beat up the seat, in the separator plate. It can get stuck in the plate...and if it gets bad enough, it'll even blow completely through the plate. With the check-ball stuck in the plate, it will not prevent a 1-2 up-shift. It will probably delay the 2-1 down-shift. When shifting from Park to D, this check-ball will not be fed any oil. It's only when the trans commands a 1-2 up-shift, that this check-ball goes to work. 3-4 Clutch Plate Teeth: That's common for those to wear. Typically associated with 3-4 clutch failure. You had mentioned it was occasionally missing 1st gear. Was the trans also missing 3rd and 4th gear? Or slipping in those gears?
Awesome! I just tripped across this video (I'll make sure to watch more) I wish it had come up in my many searches on the 4L60e. I do have a question & while I get there are soooo many different possibilities as to the cause of my problem, some of which I have already dealt with by replacing sensors. I have a K1500 Suburban with a 4L60e that appears to shift fine in the mornings but come later in the day (only short drives to & from work) the trans shifts up very early & bogs down. In fact, if you put your foot on the gas it shifts up first & not pick up revs or even shift down. It will then shift down given a little time but then it will shift straight up again. Some history, when I put 33" tyres on a couple of years ago, it started throwing a trans code on the odd occasion & reacted the same, but if I cleared the code, it came good & it sometimes wouldn't happen again for a few weeks or months. I have since gone to 35" tyres but changed the diff to a 4:56 which is pretty close to stock gearing, if anything it's probably a little the other way as the tyres only measure 34 1/2" but its certainly improved off the line, around town & is great for off road. I have replaced the TPS & MAF in this hunt. Unfortunately I don't have the Tech 2 GM OBD unit yet so I can see what the % of the throttle is, but it's odd that it seems to shift fine in the mornings, if anything, it shifts GREAT with very positive shifts as I would expect from a trans that was built with a shift kit for towing a few years ago. I am a bit suspect on a vacuum leak as I sometimes can smell fuel but I'm unsure if there are any sensors ties to the trans that would effect it, especially as I mentioned, it seems fine in the mornings. It plays up when I come home for lunch as it does after work. very odd to me with the limited knowledge I have with transmissions. More recently when I back off the gas, the revs will drop very low. I have had a stuck IAC a couple of times & am about to order a new one. P.S. The Suburban is actually Australian Delivered as R/H Drive & as a Holden, so finding a proper Tech 2 for it is proving a challenge but as I do all my own mechanical (I rebuilt a 14 bolt rear diff for it last year with a locker) & she is being built as our camping rig, we intend to keep the old girl especially as they are not very common here in Oz. I appreciate any thoughts on what could be causing the problem. Cheers!! Rod. (sorry for the essay!)
You've got a lot going on here... I've read this comment of yours twice, trying to gather info. First and foremost, drivability (engine) problems can/will affect transmission performance. Always best to address all engine problems before chasing transmission problems. The PCM (4L60E computer) gathers info from a number of engine sensors, and it makes "decisions" based on the input received from those sensors. Tire Size: The PCM is constantly watching engine load (MAF, TPS, etc) and road speed (speed sensors). Changing the tire size can affect the speed sensor info that the PCM is receiving. Because of ABS (Anti-Locking Brake) systems, many vehicle are equipped with speed sensors at each wheel. I'm not sure if this is the case with your vehicle... Temperature: For emissions purposes, engineers have designed the vehicles to warm up as fast as possible. When the vehicle is cold, all up-shifts are delayed. The TCC (torque converter clutch) is typically inhibited. Doing these things raises the engine RPMS, which raises engine temp faster. However, as the engine warms up, the shifts will occur sooner. This may explain why your engine shifts normally when cold....and shifts too soon when the engine warms up. Once again, I'd start by addressing engine problems. If the problem still persists, I'd be leaning towards the tire size and differential mod. PCM might need to be re-programmed. Thank you for the positive feedback! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's an easy way to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html 60-Second Preview of the video you just watched: ua-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have been sorting through the problems with the old girl & learning heaps as I go. I'm pretty much old school so learning all the sensors etc has been a challenge but I'm enjoying figuring out what makes it tick. Now that you have mentioned the ABS, I have also done a complete brake upgrade (disc conversion on the 14 bolt rear when I built it, upgraded discs & callipers on the front plus a bigger master cylinder to suit. I am yet to sort the ABS light as I need to cycle the ABS (another reason to purchase a Tech 2) then re-bleed the brakes, though it is pulling up ok at the moment. Yes, there is ABS sensors on the front only, I wonder if that is contributing to the trans problem?? Because of the diff ratio change to suit the larger tyres, I'm not sure that is actually the problem as the gearing is close to stock but of course I can't rule it out. As far as temp is concerned, I nearly always let my truck warm up in the mornings because of the short drive, but it's odd that after it sits until lunchtime, almost straight away the early shifting happens. I wonder if it can be ambient temperature ?? it's the same when I drive home after work, if anything, I think it is worse later in the day, if that's possible?? Yes, I'm happy to share your work, helping each other is what it's all about! CHEERS!
I also enjoy learning how stuff ticks. And there's always something to learn! When time permits, I'll be creating a video series that shows how engine problems (and other systems) can cause transmission problems. Can you pull all of the trouble codes? Note: If you recently reset trouble codes, drive it long enough (minutes, days, etc) to bring back all of the original codes.
@@SouthpawAutoworks No, no codes at the moment, which is why I need to get my hands on a Tech 2 for this vehicle so I can look at stuff like shift points, cycle the ABS etc. As you would know, a simple code reader just doesn't give enough info & can only clear the codes. Unfortunately I'm having trouble finding one in Australia as my truck was built for the Aust. market. The hunt is still on though.
Robert, thanks for making this video. Subbed and thumbs up! The animation and narration is clear and top shelf. I think I understand it enough to diagnose a loss of line pressure just before going to 2nd. If I put into drive the PSI is 60 then when I begin to accelerate from a stop it drops to 30psi (yikes) for a second and it feels as though the trans is slipping or really just in limbo as the rpms don't spike. The line pressure goes to 60PSI and it feels like normal and is in 2nd. It does this in overdrive, manual 1st, 3rd, and 4th but not 2nd as it starts off in 2nd. Also of note is if I creep up slowly the rpms when leaving a stop the PSI doesn't drop, it's only when I accelerate normally and only momentarily. I'm guessing this is a sticky 1-2 shift valve or a weak/broken spring on the 1-2 shift valve causing a slow return after the solenoid is commanded off. Any thoughts?
The 1-2 shift valve redirects/permits oil flow. In 1st gear, it's a "closed door." When the PCM commands 2nd gear, the valve becomes an "open door," letting oil flow through/past the valve, and to the 2-4 Servo. There are a number of things that affect line pressure: Pump speed (engine RPM), pump volume (pump slide position), PR Valve (affects pump slide), etc. Also, the integrity of a clutch circuit will affect line pressure. Ideally, we want no leaks in any a given circuit. When we have leaks, we lose oil pressure (line pressure). There's more info, on a number of these topics....if you're interested. 4L60E Pump: How Does it Work: ua-cam.com/video/gJ5CdPJoJyg/v-deo.html 4L60E PR Valve: Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/ELhJlZridIY/v-deo.html Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/dJlUec91kgY/v-deo.html Part 3: ua-cam.com/video/PY1trZeLqTM/v-deo.html 4L60E AFL Valve: ua-cam.com/video/LqBkdegPjNk/v-deo.html 4L60E Shift Solenoid: ua-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/v-deo.html 4L60E Shift Valve: ua-cam.com/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/v-deo.html
Thank you for taking the time to check it out! Your positive feedback is very appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
So I have a 01 suburban that doesn’t shift out of 1st unless I lift throttle! And after lifting it seems to shit to 3rd but shifts to 4th and TC Lockup just fine. When I shift to 2nd manually it doesn’t shift, if go to 3rd manually it shifts as if in drive, once throttle is lifted. I was thinking it may of been shift solenoid but kinda doubting it after seeing this, what are your thoughts?
Like your videos, I gain so much info by watching them I have a question what causes transmission fluid to leak out of the breather port? Hopefully to hear from you thanks
96 Express van w/5.7L engine. Went on a long trip, 8 hrs, hot day. On the way home got caught in stop and go freeway traffic, after about 10 minutes, 1st gear would bang into 2nd, going to check fluid level today, no leaks, has approximately 84K miles. I read something about a TFF solenoid? Thanks in advance for your help, Greg
Great videos mate very easy to follow along. Im currently looking for the reason my silverado 4l60e feels like it slips/hesitates until i add rpm when selecting drive. Seems fine when cold but gets worse as it warms up. Reverse is normal with no issues and the car will drive along fine just slips from a stopped start. Any help would be greatly appreciated 👍
Recently I rebuilt the 4l60e I commented on two weeks ago... the 2/4 input drum blue and band slipping (no 2nd or 4th gear) . Now the tranny is rebuilt, both shift solenoids replaced 2/3 shuttle valves inspected (smooth movement in the bore) and I replaced internal tranny wiring harness. But same 2/3 solenoid electrical fault occurs , but now AFTER the 2-3 shift occurs ..... Interestingly I can shift through every gear using scan tool from 1 to 4 and I have every gear going down the road. I can also downshift from 4 to 1 using the scan tool no problem. However, if I clear fault, and start from stop , it will shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, then about 2-3 seconds after the shift to 3rd , check engine light comes on and now I'm in failsafe 3rd gear again. (same 2/3 solenoid "B" electrical fault) . Since the 2/3 solenoid is commanded OFF for 3rd gear, I'm thinking this might be a problem inside the PCM, or PCM is not seeing the voltage rise fast enough after solenoid turned off . I can command the 2/3 solenoid on and off with scan tool and I hear it click on / off in the pan every time. Now I am starting to think the 2/4 band and drum originally burned up because previous owner was constantly using manual 2nd to start off and flicking to 3rd, since tranny was in failsafe all the time ( he died, so asking him is out of the question.) . I suspect this because the shift cable was originally misadjusted so that manual valve would only move to manual 2nd and not to manual 1st. You could physically not move it to manual 1st. Not sure what is going on, but definitely going to school on this one.
Thanks for the video. im diagnosing a freshly rebuilt 4660e that wont downshift back to first . using this and not having any diagnostic codes i was able to determine my problem is not the 1-2 solenoid. so on to the next video
Thank you for all your videos, it's very educational. I bought a 2004 Gmc Yukon denali. I'm pretty sure the history on the vehicle I was not giving an honest answer, but I knew that before buy the Yukon. Few days ago I took it up to the mountains and it started to over heat close to 300 degrees. I let it cool down back to normal operation temp. And it didn't over heat go back. Next day I decided to change the trans fluid with filter. Put it back together drove it gave me a p0758 generic right away. 1st 2nd and 3rd react fine, until I put it into D then the speed and rpm do not match. Can you give me some advice of what I can do? Is it solenoid problem.
My 4L60 shifts from 1 to third No second or overdrive can’t seem to figure it out can you help It shifts from 1 to 3 when taking it easy but when I give it hard gas it doesn’t want to shift to the next gear unless I let go of the gas pedal
I know this is an older post but I have watched about all of your 4L60E shift solenoid videos. I have questions if you are still around and available.I admire your strong capabilities , you know your stuff. Thanks. Micah Parris
@@SouthpawAutoworks I have replaced A &B solenoids. It was shifting hard into 3rd gear. Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward , unless the truck temp gets to 210 or so. Then it will move forward just a bit but not reverse.
I'm a little confused by what you wrote. Lots of good info, but one thing that I'm not sure about. You said, "Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward..." When you say this, do you mean that while the engine is idling, and the trans is in Park (and your foot is pushing on the brake), you can move the shifter through all of the different gears, and feel each gear engage (or bump)??? Or do you mean something else. You mentioned that after the trans comes up to temp (210 F), that the truck "will move forward just a bit". When you step on the gas, is the trans slipping (engine RPMs climb, but the truck isn't moving forward as it normally would)?
@@SouthpawAutoworks oh, sorry. I can move the shifter on the column and underneath at the shifter cable.. Makes me wonder if I lost something when I replaced the A and B solenoids.
Im working on JF015E/RE0F11A just now and man i wish there was some videos as good as thses for it, the explanation ofg the hydraulic system is the best iv seen
I just watched your very informative transmission video on a fl60 12 shift solenoid. The issue I'm having it will not shift into 3rd gear no check engine light, simply will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. My thoughts is I need a new 3-4 shift solenoid. Never had a transmission issue until this happened last week
Great Video, looking forward to all of your videos, I do have an issue that needs explained what is happening, 2004 silverado 4l60E rebuilt about 25K miles ago, I have no codes, I have a fairly hard shift 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 the engine revs up a bit before nicely shifting into 3rd, I was thinking the TCC Bore was leaking, but there is no code to support this, a good rebuild kit was installed with all new frictions, new sunshield, band, servo's etc... but nothing was done to the valve body as far as I know it was just reinstalled, had this issue for quite a while, I have purchased a rebuilt valve body but have not installed it yet, I am afraid it may be a bit over my head, but watching your video made me a bit more confident. and idea why it would rev anywhere from 5 to 7 hundred rpm before shifting into 3rd? Thank you Much Appreciate any answers.
Slipping during the 2-3 up-shift is typically foreshadowing of a 3-4 Clutch failure. There are a number of potential oil leaks in the 3-4 Clutch circuit. This leakage results in lower oil pressures, which results in clutch slippage. When time permits, I'll dedicate a video to this topic. Those elevated RPMs are killing the life of those clutches. If this goes on for too long, the clutches will fail...resulting in a trans failure/rebuild. Hope you can get it figured out soon.
i Really liked this video, my 1-2 shift valve is stuck inside, how can dis happend? can i just try to take it with some cleaner or something? Thanks for all.
Thanks Robert very informative. I have a silverado 4l60e with a problem it selects 1st and 2nd and reverse but when in drive there is nothing.Ive connected launch x431 no fault codes. If i activate shift solenoid 2 with the launch and van runs 100% through all the gears and feels like nothing is wrong. As soon as i turn off and restart there is no drive gear .It sounds like it is in neutral. I pulled the pan and its sparkling clean in there so i doubt its clutch related. Any help would be appreciated
so..north south oil channels on the bottom...east west oil channels on the top..divided by a plate and gasket with small openings..similar to rail switching gear it would seem. nice explanation.,,thx
I have 2003 4x4 4l6oe 1 and reverse .with scaner can get 4 . Im new to tranys preasure was good a and b solinoids replaced still same no major metal in pan just fines 200000 miles on rig .your videos are great thank you any sugestions for next step
This is second time watching your awesome straight forward vid on solenoid 1,2 operation. I accidentally sjfted my 4l60E into Reverse doig 55 moh on thr freeway for a quick moment. I am missing 1, 2, overdrive gears. A scan revealedpoissible solenoid failure. I installed new ones to no avail. Im going to try to see if solenoid 1,2 is ghetting connrction., Suggestionbs please? thy Robert Tim.
I have a question about the 4l60e in a 2001 astro awd. the MANIFOLD PRESSURE SWITCH clear plastic is warped in middle. Could this cause loss of R and and maybe not even lock up
I've been trying to get back to you...but, have been pressed for time. I shot a super short video, answering your question...and showing what to look for on the manifold pressure switch. Hoping to get that video uploaded, today.
@@SouthpawAutoworks the manifold pressure switch clear plastic is warped and makes me wonder if this caused the loss of reverse for me. The reverse and 2nd gear membrane swithes do not click or have any kind of reaction to pushing it.
Hello greetings from indonesia....would like to drop u a question... is measuring resistance of the solenoid valve (Mv1 2 and 3) a right way to decide whether or not to replace the valves?
From Delray Florida. I have a problem with a 700r4, 1990 4 wheel drive suburban, 350tbi. The transmission shifts perfectly, but it clunks violently into gear hot or cold, but not always. I change the accumulator valve in the auxiliary valve body, based on a transmission shops recommendation, and it still does it randomly. Otherwise shifts up and down perfectly. I drove it back from Florida to New York towing another junk Silverado. Just that bloody clunk. U joints are new, it's 100% the tranny
The "garage shift." When the vehicle is parked in the garage (could be parked anywhere) and the engine is fired up, and the trans is shifted out of Park and shifted into Reverse, or Drive. An accumulator came to my mind as well. But, let me think about this condition you're experiencing, and get back to you. Questions: 1). Do you have an automatic transmission pressure gauge? Note: A typical gas engine oil pressure gauge doesn't read high enough for automatics. Automatics need a gauge that'll read over 300 PSI....for safety reasons, among others. 2). With the trans in Park, and the engine idling, what is the pressure reading? PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
I've personally had good luck with OTC products. Or at least products that have an OTC sticker on them. Who knows who makes anything anymore. =/ amzn.to/3NWZGiX DISCLOSURE: 🕵 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description (or comment) are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
So glad I found your channel, the way you present this information is the best I’ve seen yet! I have a 2005 deep pan 4L60 w/145k that loses reverse and forward after warm up and a slight buzzing noise can be heard when the gears fail. Just dropped the pan and the filter looks to be clogged (I’m assuming oil starvation). Also noted the 1-2 solenoid is very loose in its bore, while the 3-4 is nice and snug. I plan to replace the 1-2 and filter, but wondering if the 1-2 and 3-4 are the same part? They look identical and a few parts sites seem to indicate that they are. Thanks again and happy to support you!
Regarding the filter, I've encountered this before. If there's enough clutch material settled in the bottom of the pan, after the engine/trans is fired up (and warmed up) that clutch material will start circulating through the fluid/trans, and plug the filter...yes, causing oil starvation. Cleaning the pan, and replacing the filter will take care of the issue....for now. The clutch material came from somewhere. In other words, something may be coming apart inside the trans. Just a heads up. The 1-2 valve-train is under load (a spring). The 2-3 valve-train has no spring. So, the 1-2 Shift Solenoid will be snug, and the 2-3 will wobble quite a bit...and this is normal. Both the shift solenoids are the exact same part. Glad you're enjoying the content. Really appreciate the positive feedback.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for the lightning fast reply! OK, so I had the solenoids reversed, 3-4 is on the passenger side when trans installed, so I’m probably good with not replacing those. And yes, I’d say more debris than normal in this pan and on magnet - not terrible for first service at 145k, but the vehicle (Silverado) will now serve as a farm truck and won’t see many miles going forward. Thanks again, spectacular production quality!
Great video! I just installed a atk rebuilt 4l60e in my 2007 silverado and 1st 3rd and 4th feel great however the 1-2 shift in light throttle sometimes i feel two bumps when it makes its shift. What could that be and could it be a part of the learning of the adapts?
If I replace transmission fluid , is old fluid still inside the hydraulic pump body ? Is there a way or a hole for the old fluid flow out when transmission fluid change ? Please reply and thanks !!!
Are there going to make any more videos on the 4L60E .I would like to see a 4L60E build video series just like you did for the TH400.Thanks for all the great videos you have made.
There are plans to finish this series on 4L60E hydraulics. And a 4L60E build series, too. Just not sure when... Still trying to finish out the TH400 videos. So much to do, and so little time... The positive feedback on the videos is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line, highroaddrifter.
My 94 Trans Am's transmission. Manufacturers don't much mention automatics suggested maintenance. Only in rear of an owner's manual,.... Always change old / burnt burnt ATF and filter man. Clean the trans pan with it's magnet too if it's equipped. Great video my fellow southpaw. Care to show the differences when adding a shift-kit? Something about forcing more fluid causing a noticeably harder shift.
When time permits, I'd like to dedicate a video to trans maintenance. Plus, add some extra things, that could potentially extend the life of the trans. Some of the extras don't cost much (especially when compared to the cost of an overhaul). Would love to do a video on valve-body kits! Thanks for dropping me a line. I appreciate your interest in this subject.
The solenoids affect oil pressure, at the end of the valve. That pressure, or lack of pressure, results in valve movement. The valve acts as a doorway for a different oil pressure to go past/through/around the valve. The oil that moves past the valve is directed to a clutch piston. That oil pressure moves the piston and smashes (or applies) the clutch pack. That applied clutch directly affects the planetary gear set. Note: I mention clutch pack. This applies to the band, too. It will either: 1) Cause a portion of the gear set to rotate. 2). Prevent a portion of the gear set from rotating.
Hey man great video thank you! I’m having issue with my 4l60e. I have no second gear when the trans is cold, below roughly 100 degrees. After driving for about 5 minutes, everything operates normally. I’m stumped. Fluid level is ok.
Man I rebuilt my trans about 4 years ago .I did it with UA-cam step by step first time it runs I've been to ceader city Utah also LA and and Las Vegas New Mexico.By the way I live in Las Vegas Nevada, but now my transmission Isn't shifting right im thinking Maybe sticky v oil, dirty oil.Maybe sticky valve something got Stuck in side the valve body making it slip between gears also 3 n 4 did I do something wrong?
Could be dealing with an AFL Valve that's wore out (actually the valve bore). Could also be a leaking bore plug for the 4-3 Sequence Valve. I would imagine that you'd have a code, though. If the PCM is commanding the trans to up-shift to 4th gear, the PCM will expect to see the engine RPM drop, after the shift. When it does not drop, the PCM may throw a code for incorrect gear ratio.
Great video. My problem is going into 1st gear. My check engine light came on and my OD light started blinking. When I start out I can feel it clunk into gear. My code reads 07000 which gives me to many possibilities. No problem in any other gear. Any suggestions?
Rebuilt 4l60e initially no reverse, fixed reverse now nothing in any foward gear, I'm almost certain sprag is good, I did thorough inspection when I had it tore down, any ideas where I should look first
If you have a short or problem in electrical circuit that goes to transmission could this effect function of it working at all. Tcc regulator valve is stuck open
great video, my head hurts with great Info Overload. I'm trying to understand my 2002 Acura TL transm shift problem. I lost power while driving on Hwy, I went to pass and lost acceleration power. RPM up - speed dropped. after engine cooled down I could drive enough to get off Hwy. Acura in driveway now ( towed home) I can drive around block & in 5 minutes trans Slipping. I've changed Trans fluid, What's next step ? should I change out solenoids Thanks in advance, Woody
I put in a rebuilt 4l60e into my trailblazer 2004. It ran great for about 5days. I was on the freeway doin about 70 and the tranny kicked out of gear, like it was in neutral. I coasted off the freeway and got it to the house. I went through a lot of ideas why. My linkage, neutral safety switch, finally I ended up taking my tranny out and I found the bearing for the back of the tranny was blown out. I knew that in order to get to it I had to tear it completely down. In doing so I found the stater was shattered. That would explain the no pressure in the tranny. I replaced it and put it back together, now it is stuck in first gear. What you think?
This was incredibly informative. I hope you enjoy every dollar of ad/youtube revenue 😂 question though, is ac delco a better replacement than genuine gm shift solenoid?
I've got a late lunging shift from first into second. I've changed my 1-2 accumulator to the pistonless accumulator and I changed my 1-2 solenoid. The problem still persists. Should I get back in there and change the 1-2 valve? I was thinking it might also be the servo. Thank you for this video!
Guess it's possible that the 1-2 shift valve could be sticking. But, if there's a problem with the 1-2 Shift Valve, it will also affect 3-4 upshift. The 1-2 Shift Valve is also partially responsible for the 3-4 upshift. Have you checked the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)? The PCM uses info it receives from the TPS, in order to determine shift timing. There's more to this, but I'm just trying to keep it short.
My problem is that my car's transmission does not 'engage' when cold. Nothing happens with the shifter in 'drive' until a few minutes have passed, then if 'kicks-in' and the car moves. However, withe the engine/transmission at normal operating temperature the transmission behaves normally.
the AFL valve when the solenoid is removed is not coming out, it seems stuck. The other valve from the other solenoid just snaps right out by the spring freely. This one doesnt. So i guess what im saying is how do I remove it and clean it up to get it to slide freely? It moves just a little back and forth. thanks man
Would this cause no auto first gear(seems like it is on neutral) but have manual first? I can manually shift 1-2 then back into drive and it will shift and drive as normal at highway speeds no problem. When it gets to downshifting, coming to a stop in”D”, 2-1 it is as if it is in neutral. Come to complete stop and will not go again until I manually shift to 1. 🤷♂️
It sounds like you may be dealing with a failed Input Sprag. Check out these two (2) videos to learn more about the power flow through the trans. Power Flow (Shifter in D): ua-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/v-deo.html Power Flow (Manually Shifting): ua-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/v-deo.html Questions: 1). Was the transmission recently rebuilt? 2). Was there a loud bang right before you experienced this problem?
@@SouthpawAutoworks wasn’t recently built. I mean… 8,000 miles ago. So, the rear diff, ring and pinion exploded, after I put a new one in this problem was present on the first test drive.
I have a question or 2. First I have an 08' 4l60e that has a short to ground in the 3-2 downshift solenoid wiring . I have a scan tool that is capable of commanding 1-2 , 3-4 , tcc on/off , tcc enable/unenable, 3-2 solenoid and upshift 1-2-3-4 and 4-3-2-1 and it shows Me if the 1-2 sol is on/off and 3-4 on/off and tcc enable/unenable........ for each of the commanded states. Oh yes also pc . So when I start commanding 1-2 sol on it is in 3rd gear commanded until I command 1-2 sol on etc at which point it goes into 1st gear commanded and seems to command upshifts successfully 1-2-3-4 and 4-3-2-1. commanding the 3-2 on does not work it stays off. Driving vehicle upshifts1-2-3-4 normally and slowing down to turn or ? it downshifts normally. at 30 or 40 or 50 or ? it will not downswhift unless I manually pull it down. I replaced 3-2 sol for 30$ and the tcm for 80$. Before that I tried resetting the tcm unsuccessfully. I have been inspecting the wiring from the tcm and inside trans and where the sol control wiring enters/exits the trans for missing insulation but so far the wiring is in fairly good shape. At this point Im leaning towards the wiring as it makes its way up bell housing and across engine or the ecm for the short to ground. Vehicle is chevy express 1500 4.3l which Im sure You know creates ALOT of heat especially in Phoenix, AZ . Do You have an opinion as to the most likely location of the short to ground in the 3-2 circuit ? 1 more thing there is what looks like a diode in the rear bottom of the valve body that appears to have some damage/missing plastic/nylon that maybe is supposed to seal fluid out ? Maybe ? Thank You sincerely, Christopher Frost P.S. Sorry about the short book
It's not until you watch a video like this that you actually get an appreciate of the genius that went into something we take for granted every day. Just coming up with the concept is one thing? Buy then actually engineere it, that's a whole new beast. Anyway I have a question for anyone who might be able to help? I'm running the 4L60e transmission and recently had work done to the motor. A full rebuild with a few modifications. A stage 2 cam. Performance headers into 2 & half" exhaust with high flow cats. As well as a cold air performance intake. Plus a few other tweaks. So now the shift points are out and other than dropping a manual gearbox in. And or fitting a stand alone transmission system? Is there a way it can adjust the shift points using a GM Tech 2 scan tool that is specifically set up for my model of car. It's the same one the dealership use when they go over it? And seeing that I've now modified the engine shouldn't have the PCM tuned /programmed to match the the newly modified engine? I was told that if I had the proper scan tool which I do. Can anyone give me a heads up on programming a PCM. Any help would be much appreciated.
My 1997 GMC 1500 truck with a 5.7 liter vortec engine with a 4l60e transmission.My trans was rebuilt 12 years ago & a trans go shift kit with corvette servo.Note my filter & fluid has not been changed since.Last week while driving my truck just felt like it went in neutral.I managed to pull in a gas station & added a quart of tranny fluid.I about a 1 mile managed to drive home but my rpm's were kinda high ,but made it to my apartment .Now when starting when I put it in gear when I give it gas it tries to go forward and backwards.do you think a change of fluid and filter will help? The tranny has not made any noises,but found tranny fluid under truck leaks under truck in the last couple of weeks.Any advice you could give would be appreciated.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you! Your explanation helps me a lot! I'm trying to make a test bench for automatic transmission from the electronic point of view and honestly have no idea of the basic to start the project. Thank you again!!
If the 1-2 solenoid malfunctions and turns off when the 2-3 solenoid is commanded on would this cause a third gear shift flare like neutral? Been having some electrical problems with my ECM I believe. The 2-3 flair followed the new transmission
First great channel. I have learned quite a bit from your video series and they're put together amazing. Thank you. I have a question about reverse in a 04 suburban 4l60e. It's a rebuilt transmission from global transmission has approximately 45000 on it. Has had regular fluid and filter changes since I put it in. I do light towing, small boat, dirt bikes at most about 1 ton of weight. Reverse is now becoming hard to engage. When put in reverse it acts like it is slipping at first. With light reving of the Engine it will slowly creep backwards if on flat ground. If on a slope nose of car pointing down, trying to back up a hill it will not move. If you feather the throttle it will eventually engage. Sometimes with a clunk sometimes just slips right in. Once engaged I have full reverse no slip works great. I have checked the fluid. Nice red color no smells of burnt clutch. I've drained just a bit of fluid, not a full change , but no signs of clutch material or metal particles. I've watched and read multiple things on reverse issues on the 4l60e but non seem to target my specific problem. I've been driving it like this for the past 3 months. I know not exactly the right thing to do. But the symptoms have not changed it seems no worse than when it first happened. Yes this was an immediate problem. Worked fine then one day it didn't. Would truly appreciate your thoughts. Just trying to figure out if this is a sun shell issue, servo issue, reverse pressure boost , or maybe even a shift solenoid issue. Or is it just screwed and I once again need a new transmission. Thank you for your time
That's interesting... It has me wondering if the shifter is not adjusted correctly. I understand that this problem has occurred out of nowhere. Always good to circle back to the basics, and go from there. Questions: 1). When the problem arises, if you move the shifter ever so slightly to the left (and/or to the right) of Reverse, does this affect the symptom? 2). When the problem occurs, can you stop trying Reverse, and manually shift the trans to "1". Accelerate to a speed that would make sense to upshift....but, instead of up-shifting, just let your foot off of the gas. What happens? A). Does the vehicle coast as though it's in Neutral? B). Or does the vehicle quickly decelerate (engine braking)? Thank you for the positive feedback! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's an easy way to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html 60-Second Preview of the video you just watched: ua-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/v-deo.html
Moving the shifter in any direction doesn't effect it. I've also checked the cable and shift position it moves as it should and locks into each shift position correctly. As for deceleration in first it does not coast when lifting off the accelerater. I should also mention it shifts perfectly in all other gears I can also manually shift through the gears properly. Fluid has always been kept at recommended levels using ac Delco fluid. I've been researching the shift manifold. Could the diaphragm be cracked in that not creating the proper signal? Thank you for your help. Just trying to diagnose this properly before just throwing parts at it.
That was very informative thank you. I just rebuilt my 2005 Honda Odyssey transmission. It runs great but once it warms up a little it shudders when leaving from a stop. However, if I manually put it in first gear a give it gas it doesn't shudder. I manually shift to second then Drive and all is well. The problem only occurs when I'm in Drive and start to go. I did not replace any of the electronics/solenoids as I thought they were working when the transmission went out. Any thoughts? Much appreciated.
Not sure. I will say that many transmissions can be operated with generic fluid, or even bulk fluid (with a vehicle/transmission specific additive, added during transmission filling). However, this is not the best practice with Honda transmissions. If you ran some generic type of fluid, you might want to try running genuine Honda ATF. The dealerships carry it. Can probably find it online, too. Wishing you the best of luck on this matter.
ive done engine work since i was a kid im hoping i can duplicate my Success in Engines as well as in Transmissions im working on a 1997 astro Van!! Thanks for SHARING!!!!!!
Thank you for being here!
If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
Does this also go for the 4l80e I have codes 81 82 83 👍
I don't know the history of the transmission I just bought the vehicle and it'll go in reverse neutral and first and second gear and that's it
Understood.
Chances are, the 3-4 Clutch is smoked. Super common problem on this transmission.
As the name implies, the 3-4 Clutch is partially responsible for 3rd gear and 4th gear.
I have a 1997 c1500 with 4l60e 1-piece case. Keep getting P0758 and have replaced both A and B shift solenoids. I can command them on /off through PCM and voltage drop occurs …they work . Can mechanical problem in valve body or transmission still cause P0758? No debris or clutch material found in pan …clean with normal metallic sludge on magnet
Is the trans missing/skipping 2nd or 3rd gear?
What's the history on trans?
High mileage unit? Recently rebuilt?
To answer your question...
Yes, there are mechanical, and hydraulic, problems that can exist in the valve-body, that can cause this code.
Shoot me some more info, and I'll see if I can get you pointed in the right direction.
Automatic transmissions have now entered the realm of magic for me. Unreal that you can explain this.
I'm in awe that people created these things.
@@SouthpawAutoworks people did not create them, people created machines, machines created them.
I've only watched this one video of yours and I am coming to the conclusion quickly and I believe you may have the best transmission videos on the internet at least for explaining to the beginner thank you for your service
That would be great! Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
you could do alot worsethan watching and listening to this channel. Even my girlfriend(not very mechanically inclined)undrstood the content. cheers frrom Calgary.
Right on!!
2 min in video and I agree with you 100%
🙏
using that color coding to show the inner workings of the 4L60E transmission is a quality mark of a genius. No hesitations in your explanations and smooth talking puts your web page at the top of the list compared to what i seen in other show and tells. You are the grand master of your intellect for perpetrating such awesome detail to your audience. Kudo's go out to you sir.
I can't thank you enough to help me understand this type of transmission down to every detail. Transmissions were always a "hands off" thing to me because of their complexity making them so intimidating. Your videos really paid because they make understanding this transmission so easily. I've watched many other videos and they still left me scratching my head. So again sir, thank you for taking the time to make these videos to help people like me get the best understanding and gain the knowledge from a true expert. 👍👍
Right on! Glad to hear that.
Your interest in this subject is appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line.
PS I've got plans of making more video content, like this. Just a matter of time...
Same bro, same. Rear end, engine, chassis I can understand but autos are voodoo 🤷🏼♂️🤣
The best in depth explanation video for any transmission I've ever seen👍👍
Thanks for 'arming' folks with some more knowledge! Seriously, that was well played sir! Great work! I like to teach people the basics in a powershift transmission, which is extremely similar to a complex 'auto' trans, but without any of the valving. Usually 1-3 clutch stacks and a F/R stack. That's it.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
John Deere power-shift? Right on!
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks It took me a few views to fealize thatyou only ha d the one hand, just goes to show that you can fix a tranny with only one hand as long as you have the motivaton to overcome problems in life
1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder:
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
I repair valvebodies at gm. Let me tell you these videos have made my job way easier figuring out why a valve was failing
Right on!
Love your videos. So clear with great visual explanations and animations. They are perfect. You obviously put alot more work into your videos than just turning on a recording camera. I'm gonna watch more ot them.
Wow, thank you!
i know nothing about cars, but holy heck this is helpful for understanding these kind of structures.
Right on.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Instant sub. Never seen your Chanel till today. The best teachings and illustrations I’ve seen by far. ❤love it!!
Excellent explanation....No such detailed videos on internet about automatic transmission......This is the best channel for learning automatic transmission....
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for dropping us a line.
New subscriber as of right now. You got me hooked. I do a lot of my own work and I’m playing with the concept of a 4L60E in my race truck instead of the th350 and this just solved my issue.
Right on!
You knowledge and ability to communicate is unprecedented!!!!
The positive feedback is appreciated.
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks will do. Thank you again
I loved it.🎉
Watched it in 1.75x and still got everything smooth into my brain 🧠
Now I'll have more proper knowledge while going to the mechanic and resolving my Toyota Harrier / Lexus Rx330 gearbox problem
Right on.
@SouthpawAutoworks BTW I got my transmission replaced for the peace of mind 😅
The shifts are smooth, it is just that when I floor the car. The gear takes lag to shift and a bit of aggressive shift. Perhaps can consider this from a V6 engine 3mz
What an amazingly detailed video. Mine randomly slips while in 4th gear so I got the shift solenoids & torque converter pwm solenoid, hoping that fixes the problem, but I really wanted more information on how those solenoids work and what they do. This video is a big help in understanding how the transmission works. I subscribed.
Here's a video dedicated to the shift solenoids.
4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation): ua-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/v-deo.html
That condition could be caused by a number of things. Hoping to get back to creating more 4L60E videos, soon. Got a lot of different topics to cover, including this one.
Currently busy working on a TH400 build series.
ua-cam.com/play/PLMK9OC5NGhbgVgAwDO_rCGFF38T1LjkS7.html
The positive feedback (and the subscription) is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
I really appreciate all that you do it helps tremendously my question is I recently changed the oil and filter in my 4l60e the reason for this is when I reach 30 mph its like it goes into neutral while I had the pan and off out of the way I was checking out the shift solenoids when I pushed in on them the one closest to the front of the transmission it would come back out on it's own the other one I had to pull it back out is this normal or should they be charged because it is still doing the same thing as before
Regarding the solenoids, that's normal. One solenoid is under spring tension. The other is not.
If the trans is trying to shift into 3rd gear, and instead of getting 3rd gear, it feels like neutral, chances are that the 3-4 Clutch is failing. As the name implies, it partially responsible for creating both 3rd gear and 4th gear.
It's a very common failure point on the 4L60E.
What's the part number for those solenoids?
Very great information. I plan on using your videos in our class at our Tech Center to help my students understand automatic transmissions. Outstanding. Great visuals.
Right on! Happy to hear that.
Your positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to drop me a line.
wow! blown away by the detail, editing, and explanations, thank you
Thank you for your comment. Means a lot.
Have a great weekend.
Great video and very informative. I have a question… I have a 1995 Camaro that seems to be missing second gear. First gear pulls normal however it won’t shift to second, if you lead off of the throttle it will jump straight to third and then fourth operates totally normal as well. If you step on the throttle enough to where it goes to downshift into second gear it will just rev almost like neutral. Can you help me out diagnosing this? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out??
GOOD ANIMATIONS caused my clear understanding. Thanks a lot
Right on!
Thank you foe the clear explanation, please explain also about the accumulator, what is the function while several case 4l60e harsh shift 1-2 while the plastic accumulator is tear and wear. Thx
November 5, 2022- Follow up to my 2nd post. Received the PCM I bought on Ebay ( by Flashmasters) and it fixed the transmission immediately. No more Shift solenoid B Fault and no more default 3rd gear. I was almost defeated after rebuilding an obviously burned up transmission only to install it and have the same fault that I started with. So, pay close attention to your scan tool solenoid open/short to ground/short to volt faults, because it very well could be the PCM. It is natural to assume an old truck has wiring harness issues, but don't overlook the PCM itself . And don't assume your vehicle only has one problem....in this case the tranny was indeed burned up but the PCM was also completely defective, because its internal volt meter was permanently stuck on 0V as it activated and monitored the B solenoid
Im currently having a shift solenoid b stuck off problem truck feels like it’s in limp mode completely rebuild transmission brand new shift solenoids brand new pcm from flashmasters tested harness from pcm to solenoid wires all check out anything I could be missing???
My 4l60e sometimes doesn't shift to first. No codes. New GM solenoids 2 years ago. The the thing is an 05 with 218k though. I know it's wore out. The friction material removed from the pan was ridiculous 2 years ago. The truck has been jumping on startup for months now. I imagine those cluches metal to metal.
That is a lot of miles, and friction material in the pan is never a good thing.
You might wanna check out this video. Along the same lines...
ua-cam.com/video/4qXqzWFKPI0/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks pulled the trans last week. The front left checkball was stuck in the separator plate and the 3/4 clutch teeth were half worn away. Going good now.
The front-most check-ball is used during the 1-2 up-shift, and the 2-1 down-shift. It's common for that check-ball to beat up the seat, in the separator plate. It can get stuck in the plate...and if it gets bad enough, it'll even blow completely through the plate.
With the check-ball stuck in the plate, it will not prevent a 1-2 up-shift. It will probably delay the 2-1 down-shift.
When shifting from Park to D, this check-ball will not be fed any oil. It's only when the trans commands a 1-2 up-shift, that this check-ball goes to work.
3-4 Clutch Plate Teeth:
That's common for those to wear. Typically associated with 3-4 clutch failure.
You had mentioned it was occasionally missing 1st gear.
Was the trans also missing 3rd and 4th gear? Or slipping in those gears?
Awesome! I just tripped across this video (I'll make sure to watch more) I wish it had come up in my many searches on the 4L60e. I do have a question & while I get there are soooo many different possibilities as to the cause of my problem, some of which I have already dealt with by replacing sensors. I have a K1500 Suburban with a 4L60e that appears to shift fine in the mornings but come later in the day (only short drives to & from work) the trans shifts up very early & bogs down. In fact, if you put your foot on the gas it shifts up first & not pick up revs or even shift down. It will then shift down given a little time but then it will shift straight up again. Some history, when I put 33" tyres on a couple of years ago, it started throwing a trans code on the odd occasion & reacted the same, but if I cleared the code, it came good & it sometimes wouldn't happen again for a few weeks or months. I have since gone to 35" tyres but changed the diff to a 4:56 which is pretty close to stock gearing, if anything it's probably a little the other way as the tyres only measure 34 1/2" but its certainly improved off the line, around town & is great for off road. I have replaced the TPS & MAF in this hunt. Unfortunately I don't have the Tech 2 GM OBD unit yet so I can see what the % of the throttle is, but it's odd that it seems to shift fine in the mornings, if anything, it shifts GREAT with very positive shifts as I would expect from a trans that was built with a shift kit for towing a few years ago. I am a bit suspect on a vacuum leak as I sometimes can smell fuel but I'm unsure if there are any sensors ties to the trans that would effect it, especially as I mentioned, it seems fine in the mornings. It plays up when I come home for lunch as it does after work. very odd to me with the limited knowledge I have with transmissions. More recently when I back off the gas, the revs will drop very low. I have had a stuck IAC a couple of times & am about to order a new one. P.S. The Suburban is actually Australian Delivered as R/H Drive & as a Holden, so finding a proper Tech 2 for it is proving a challenge but as I do all my own mechanical (I rebuilt a 14 bolt rear diff for it last year with a locker) & she is being built as our camping rig, we intend to keep the old girl especially as they are not very common here in Oz. I appreciate any thoughts on what could be causing the problem. Cheers!! Rod. (sorry for the essay!)
You've got a lot going on here... I've read this comment of yours twice, trying to gather info.
First and foremost, drivability (engine) problems can/will affect transmission performance. Always best to address all engine problems before chasing transmission problems. The PCM (4L60E computer) gathers info from a number of engine sensors, and it makes "decisions" based on the input received from those sensors.
Tire Size:
The PCM is constantly watching engine load (MAF, TPS, etc) and road speed (speed sensors).
Changing the tire size can affect the speed sensor info that the PCM is receiving. Because of ABS (Anti-Locking Brake) systems, many vehicle are equipped with speed sensors at each wheel. I'm not sure if this is the case with your vehicle...
Temperature:
For emissions purposes, engineers have designed the vehicles to warm up as fast as possible. When the vehicle is cold, all up-shifts are delayed. The TCC (torque converter clutch) is typically inhibited.
Doing these things raises the engine RPMS, which raises engine temp faster. However, as the engine warms up, the shifts will occur sooner.
This may explain why your engine shifts normally when cold....and shifts too soon when the engine warms up.
Once again, I'd start by addressing engine problems. If the problem still persists, I'd be leaning towards the tire size and differential mod. PCM might need to be re-programmed.
Thank you for the positive feedback!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
Here's an easy way to share...
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
60-Second Preview of the video you just watched:
ua-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have been sorting through the problems with the old girl & learning heaps as I go. I'm pretty much old school so learning all the sensors etc has been a challenge but I'm enjoying figuring out what makes it tick. Now that you have mentioned the ABS, I have also done a complete brake upgrade (disc conversion on the 14 bolt rear when I built it, upgraded discs & callipers on the front plus a bigger master cylinder to suit. I am yet to sort the ABS light as I need to cycle the ABS (another reason to purchase a Tech 2) then re-bleed the brakes, though it is pulling up ok at the moment. Yes, there is ABS sensors on the front only, I wonder if that is contributing to the trans problem?? Because of the diff ratio change to suit the larger tyres, I'm not sure that is actually the problem as the gearing is close to stock but of course I can't rule it out. As far as temp is concerned, I nearly always let my truck warm up in the mornings because of the short drive, but it's odd that after it sits until lunchtime, almost straight away the early shifting happens. I wonder if it can be ambient temperature ?? it's the same when I drive home after work, if anything, I think it is worse later in the day, if that's possible?? Yes, I'm happy to share your work, helping each other is what it's all about! CHEERS!
I also enjoy learning how stuff ticks. And there's always something to learn!
When time permits, I'll be creating a video series that shows how engine problems (and other systems) can cause transmission problems.
Can you pull all of the trouble codes?
Note: If you recently reset trouble codes, drive it long enough (minutes, days, etc) to bring back all of the original codes.
@@SouthpawAutoworks No, no codes at the moment, which is why I need to get my hands on a Tech 2 for this vehicle so I can look at stuff like shift points, cycle the ABS etc. As you would know, a simple code reader just doesn't give enough info & can only clear the codes. Unfortunately I'm having trouble finding one in Australia as my truck was built for the Aust. market. The hunt is still on though.
Understood.
Wishing you the best of luck with your hunt.
Robert, thanks for making this video. Subbed and thumbs up! The animation and narration is clear and top shelf.
I think I understand it enough to diagnose a loss of line pressure just before going to 2nd. If I put into drive the PSI is 60 then when I begin to accelerate from a stop it drops to 30psi (yikes) for a second and it feels as though the trans is slipping or really just in limbo as the rpms don't spike. The line pressure goes to 60PSI and it feels like normal and is in 2nd. It does this in overdrive, manual 1st, 3rd, and 4th but not 2nd as it starts off in 2nd. Also of note is if I creep up slowly the rpms when leaving a stop the PSI doesn't drop, it's only when I accelerate normally and only momentarily. I'm guessing this is a sticky 1-2 shift valve or a weak/broken spring on the 1-2 shift valve causing a slow return after the solenoid is commanded off. Any thoughts?
The 1-2 shift valve redirects/permits oil flow.
In 1st gear, it's a "closed door." When the PCM commands 2nd gear, the valve becomes an "open door," letting oil flow through/past the valve, and to the 2-4 Servo.
There are a number of things that affect line pressure:
Pump speed (engine RPM), pump volume (pump slide position), PR Valve (affects pump slide), etc.
Also, the integrity of a clutch circuit will affect line pressure. Ideally, we want no leaks in any a given circuit. When we have leaks, we lose oil pressure (line pressure).
There's more info, on a number of these topics....if you're interested.
4L60E Pump:
How Does it Work: ua-cam.com/video/gJ5CdPJoJyg/v-deo.html
4L60E PR Valve:
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/ELhJlZridIY/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/dJlUec91kgY/v-deo.html
Part 3: ua-cam.com/video/PY1trZeLqTM/v-deo.html
4L60E AFL Valve:
ua-cam.com/video/LqBkdegPjNk/v-deo.html
4L60E Shift Solenoid:
ua-cam.com/video/FaChWmcsAgI/v-deo.html
4L60E Shift Valve:
ua-cam.com/video/jPhm76RDz6Y/v-deo.html
Great videos! Best informational videos about how a 4l60e works on youtube!
Thank you for taking the time to check it out!
Your positive feedback is very appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
Спасибо тебе Роберт за твой канал. Он помогает мне многое понять. Ты великолепный учитель! Thank you!
Положительный отзыв приветствуется.
Спасибо.
So I have a 01 suburban that doesn’t shift out of 1st unless I lift throttle! And after lifting it seems to shit to 3rd but shifts to 4th and TC Lockup just fine. When I shift to 2nd manually it doesn’t shift, if go to 3rd manually it shifts as if in drive, once throttle is lifted. I was thinking it may of been shift solenoid but kinda doubting it after seeing this, what are your thoughts?
My Brother
I want know about TEREX hydraulic Crane PPM ATT600 ( Electronic switch shifting gear detail please
Thank u
best explanation on youtube, makes it easier for a rookie like me to learn, thanks have hit subscribe.
Right on! Welcome aboard!
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Like your videos, I gain so much info by watching them I have a question what causes transmission fluid to leak out of the breather port? Hopefully to hear from you thanks
96 Express van w/5.7L engine. Went on a long trip, 8 hrs, hot day. On the way home got caught in stop and go freeway traffic, after about 10 minutes, 1st gear would bang into 2nd, going to check fluid level today, no leaks, has approximately 84K miles. I read something about a TFF solenoid? Thanks in advance for your help, Greg
Great videos mate very easy to follow along. Im currently looking for the reason my silverado 4l60e feels like it slips/hesitates until i add rpm when selecting drive. Seems fine when cold but gets worse as it warms up. Reverse is normal with no issues and the car will drive along fine just slips from a stopped start. Any help would be greatly appreciated 👍
Recently I rebuilt the 4l60e I commented on two weeks ago... the 2/4 input drum blue and band slipping (no 2nd or 4th gear) . Now the tranny is rebuilt, both shift solenoids replaced 2/3 shuttle valves inspected (smooth movement in the bore) and I replaced internal tranny wiring harness. But same 2/3 solenoid electrical fault occurs , but now AFTER the 2-3 shift occurs ..... Interestingly I can shift through every gear using scan tool from 1 to 4 and I have every gear going down the road. I can also downshift from 4 to 1 using the scan tool no problem. However, if I clear fault, and start from stop , it will shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, then about 2-3 seconds after the shift to 3rd , check engine light comes on and now I'm in failsafe 3rd gear again. (same 2/3 solenoid "B" electrical fault) . Since the 2/3 solenoid is commanded OFF for 3rd gear, I'm thinking this might be a problem inside the PCM, or PCM is not seeing the voltage rise fast enough after solenoid turned off . I can command the 2/3 solenoid on and off with scan tool and I hear it click on / off in the pan every time. Now I am starting to think the 2/4 band and drum originally burned up because previous owner was constantly using manual 2nd to start off and flicking to 3rd, since tranny was in failsafe all the time ( he died, so asking him is out of the question.) . I suspect this because the shift cable was originally misadjusted so that manual valve would only move to manual 2nd and not to manual 1st. You could physically not move it to manual 1st. Not sure what is going on, but definitely going to school on this one.
Thanks for the video. im diagnosing a freshly rebuilt 4660e that wont downshift back to first . using this and not having any diagnostic codes i was able to determine my problem is not the 1-2 solenoid. so on to the next video
Interesting...
If you shift it into Manual 1st ("1" on the shifter), what happens?
Thank you for all your videos, it's very educational. I bought a 2004 Gmc Yukon denali. I'm pretty sure the history on the vehicle I was not giving an honest answer, but I knew that before buy the Yukon. Few days ago I took it up to the mountains and it started to over heat close to 300 degrees. I let it cool down back to normal operation temp. And it didn't over heat go back. Next day I decided to change the trans fluid with filter. Put it back together drove it gave me a p0758 generic right away. 1st 2nd and 3rd react fine, until I put it into D then the speed and rpm do not match. Can you give me some advice of what I can do? Is it solenoid problem.
My 4L60 shifts from 1 to third No second or overdrive can’t seem to figure it out can you help It shifts from 1 to 3 when taking it easy but when I give it hard gas it doesn’t want to shift to the next gear unless I let go of the gas pedal
Same. Did you figure out what it was?
What causes the Hydraulic oil to mix with the Transmission oil...
Your videos are so detailed and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks for stopping by and checking it out!
I'm excited for you to get your fitness videos rolling. You're gonna do awesome...I just know it.
I know this is an older post but I have watched about all of your 4L60E shift solenoid videos. I have questions if you are still around and available.I admire your strong capabilities , you know your stuff. Thanks. Micah Parris
Very kind of you.
This is the best way to reach me. Please know that I'm typically slow to respond.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I have replaced A &B solenoids. It was shifting hard into 3rd gear. Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward , unless the truck temp gets to 210 or so. Then it will move forward just a bit but not reverse.
I'm a little confused by what you wrote. Lots of good info, but one thing that I'm not sure about.
You said, "Now the thing will go through all the gears but will not move reverse or forward..."
When you say this, do you mean that while the engine is idling, and the trans is in Park (and your foot is pushing on the brake), you can move the shifter through all of the different gears, and feel each gear engage (or bump)??? Or do you mean something else.
You mentioned that after the trans comes up to temp (210 F), that the truck "will move forward just a bit". When you step on the gas, is the trans slipping (engine RPMs climb, but the truck isn't moving forward as it normally would)?
@@SouthpawAutoworks oh, sorry. I can move the shifter on the column and underneath at the shifter cable.. Makes me wonder if I lost something when I replaced the A and B solenoids.
Where can I buy the solenoid and valve and spring???
Im working on JF015E/RE0F11A just now and man i wish there was some videos as good as thses for it, the explanation ofg the hydraulic system is the best iv seen
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
I just watched your very informative transmission video on a fl60 12 shift solenoid. The issue I'm having it will not shift into 3rd gear no check engine light, simply will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. My thoughts is I need a new 3-4 shift solenoid. Never had a transmission issue until this happened last week
Were you able to get to the bottom of this problem?
Tip of the hat 2 uu Legend , I deeply appreciate your time your sacrifice for tha better of us ❤
Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line.
Beautiful explanation Southpaw ;;;;
Crystal Clear & Simple - Thanx Guy 😊
My pleasure.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Great Video, looking forward to all of your videos, I do have an issue that needs explained what is happening, 2004 silverado 4l60E rebuilt about 25K miles ago, I have no codes, I have a fairly hard shift 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 the engine revs up a bit before nicely shifting into 3rd, I was thinking the TCC Bore was leaking, but there is no code to support this, a good rebuild kit was installed with all new frictions, new sunshield, band, servo's etc... but nothing was done to the valve body as far as I know it was just reinstalled, had this issue for quite a while, I have purchased a rebuilt valve body but have not installed it yet, I am afraid it may be a bit over my head, but watching your video made me a bit more confident. and idea why it would rev anywhere from 5 to 7 hundred rpm before shifting into 3rd? Thank you Much Appreciate any answers.
Slipping during the 2-3 up-shift is typically foreshadowing of a 3-4 Clutch failure.
There are a number of potential oil leaks in the 3-4 Clutch circuit. This leakage results in lower oil pressures, which results in clutch slippage.
When time permits, I'll dedicate a video to this topic.
Those elevated RPMs are killing the life of those clutches. If this goes on for too long, the clutches will fail...resulting in a trans failure/rebuild.
Hope you can get it figured out soon.
well explained aPic is Worth a thousand Words!!! THanks for Sharing!!
My pleasure!
i Really liked this video, my 1-2 shift valve is stuck inside, how can dis happend? can i just try to take it with some cleaner or something? Thanks for all.
One of the more in depth videos I've seen. Definitely subscribing.
Right on!
Thanks for dropping me a line!
Does the 4T60 share the same electronic valve body and internal hardware? Or are they unrelated?
Thanks Robert very informative.
I have a silverado 4l60e with a problem it selects 1st and 2nd and reverse but when in drive there is nothing.Ive connected launch x431 no fault codes. If i activate shift solenoid 2 with the launch and van runs 100% through all the gears and feels like nothing is wrong.
As soon as i turn off and restart there is no drive gear .It sounds like it is in neutral.
I pulled the pan and its sparkling clean in there so i doubt its clutch related.
Any help would be appreciated
What causes a hard shift into Reverse from PD321? Thanks! 2001 Chevy Astro AWD 4L60E
so..north south oil channels on the bottom...east west oil channels on the top..divided by a plate and gasket with small openings..similar to rail switching gear it would seem.
nice explanation.,,thx
Yes, exactly.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
Saludos! Mi transmisión 5140e no aplica el "parking" se queda en neutral. Cuál es el solenoide de "parking"?
I have 2003 4x4 4l6oe 1 and reverse .with scaner can get 4 . Im new to tranys preasure was good a and b solinoids replaced still same no major metal in pan just fines 200000 miles on rig .your videos are great thank you any sugestions for next step
This is second time watching your awesome straight forward vid on solenoid 1,2 operation. I accidentally sjfted my 4l60E into Reverse doig 55 moh on thr freeway for a quick moment. I am missing 1, 2, overdrive gears. A scan revealedpoissible solenoid failure. I installed new ones to no avail. Im going to try to see if solenoid 1,2 is ghetting connrction., Suggestionbs please? thy Robert Tim.
Awesome video! Great share. Thank you for helping me teach my boys! 🤙🏼🍻
Right on!
You bet!
What would delay a 4L60E going into 1st gear from a dead stop-particularly when using towing mode?
I have a question about the 4l60e in a 2001 astro awd. the MANIFOLD PRESSURE SWITCH clear plastic is warped in middle. Could this cause loss of R and and maybe not even lock up
I've been trying to get back to you...but, have been pressed for time.
I shot a super short video, answering your question...and showing what to look for on the manifold pressure switch.
Hoping to get that video uploaded, today.
Thank you!
@@SouthpawAutoworks the manifold pressure switch clear plastic is warped and makes me wonder if this caused the loss of reverse for me. The reverse and 2nd gear membrane swithes do not click or have any kind of reaction to pushing it.
Here's my Response:
ua-cam.com/video/Wie4lbppOu4/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks thank u 👍
Hello greetings from indonesia....would like to drop u a question... is measuring resistance of the solenoid valve (Mv1 2 and 3) a right way to decide whether or not to replace the valves?
From Delray Florida. I have a problem with a 700r4, 1990 4 wheel drive suburban, 350tbi. The transmission shifts perfectly, but it clunks violently into gear hot or cold, but not always. I change the accumulator valve in the auxiliary valve body, based on a transmission shops recommendation, and it still does it randomly. Otherwise shifts up and down perfectly. I drove it back from Florida to New York towing another junk Silverado. Just that bloody clunk. U joints are new, it's 100% the tranny
The "garage shift." When the vehicle is parked in the garage (could be parked anywhere) and the engine is fired up, and the trans is shifted out of Park and shifted into Reverse, or Drive.
An accumulator came to my mind as well. But, let me think about this condition you're experiencing, and get back to you.
Questions:
1). Do you have an automatic transmission pressure gauge?
Note: A typical gas engine oil pressure gauge doesn't read high enough for automatics. Automatics need a gauge that'll read over 300 PSI....for safety reasons, among others.
2). With the trans in Park, and the engine idling, what is the pressure reading?
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
@@SouthpawAutoworks ok, I'll buy a gauge. The $20 Amazon units have lousy ratings. I guess I'll have to spend? $40? $50? Recommendation? Thank you
I've personally had good luck with OTC products. Or at least products that have an OTC sticker on them. Who knows who makes anything anymore. =/
amzn.to/3NWZGiX
DISCLOSURE: 🕵
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description (or comment) are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.
So glad I found your channel, the way you present this information is the best I’ve seen yet! I have a 2005 deep pan 4L60 w/145k that loses reverse and forward after warm up and a slight buzzing noise can be heard when the gears fail. Just dropped the pan and the filter looks to be clogged (I’m assuming oil starvation). Also noted the 1-2 solenoid is very loose in its bore, while the 3-4 is nice and snug. I plan to replace the 1-2 and filter, but wondering if the 1-2 and 3-4 are the same part? They look identical and a few parts sites seem to indicate that they are. Thanks again and happy to support you!
Regarding the filter, I've encountered this before. If there's enough clutch material settled in the bottom of the pan, after the engine/trans is fired up (and warmed up) that clutch material will start circulating through the fluid/trans, and plug the filter...yes, causing oil starvation.
Cleaning the pan, and replacing the filter will take care of the issue....for now.
The clutch material came from somewhere. In other words, something may be coming apart inside the trans. Just a heads up.
The 1-2 valve-train is under load (a spring). The 2-3 valve-train has no spring. So, the 1-2 Shift Solenoid will be snug, and the 2-3 will wobble quite a bit...and this is normal.
Both the shift solenoids are the exact same part.
Glad you're enjoying the content.
Really appreciate the positive feedback.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for the lightning fast reply! OK, so I had the solenoids reversed, 3-4 is on the passenger side when trans installed, so I’m probably good with not replacing those. And yes, I’d say more debris than normal in this pan and on magnet - not terrible for first service at 145k, but the vehicle (Silverado) will now serve as a farm truck and won’t see many miles going forward. Thanks again, spectacular production quality!
Right on.
Thanks for being here.
New filter & fluid resolved the issue 👍🏽
2005 Silverado, 4.3L, 2WD
Also, 1/2” threaded steel pipe works perfect to extract filter seal.
Right on! Congrats!
Oh, cool. I'll have to give that method a go. Thanks for sharing.
Great video! I just installed a atk rebuilt 4l60e in my 2007 silverado and 1st 3rd and 4th feel great however the 1-2 shift in light throttle sometimes i feel two bumps when it makes its shift. What could that be and could it be a part of the learning of the adapts?
If I replace transmission fluid , is old fluid still inside the hydraulic pump body ? Is there a way or a hole for the old fluid flow out when transmission fluid change ? Please reply and thanks !!!
Are there going to make any more videos on the 4L60E .I would like to see a 4L60E build video series just like you did for the TH400.Thanks for all the great videos you have made.
There are plans to finish this series on 4L60E hydraulics. And a 4L60E build series, too. Just not sure when...
Still trying to finish out the TH400 videos. So much to do, and so little time...
The positive feedback on the videos is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line, highroaddrifter.
Great video, you should do a weekend Rebuild Transmission Seminar👍
My 94 Trans Am's transmission. Manufacturers don't much mention automatics suggested maintenance. Only in rear of an owner's manual,.... Always change old / burnt burnt ATF and filter man. Clean the trans pan with it's magnet too if it's equipped. Great video my fellow southpaw. Care to show the differences when adding a
shift-kit? Something about forcing more fluid causing a noticeably harder shift.
When time permits, I'd like to dedicate a video to trans maintenance. Plus, add some extra things, that could potentially extend the life of the trans. Some of the extras don't cost much (especially when compared to the cost of an overhaul).
Would love to do a video on valve-body kits!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
I appreciate your interest in this subject.
And what does any of this have to do with changing gears within the transmission itself? Does this affect clutch packs and planetary gears, etc.? How?
The solenoids affect oil pressure, at the end of the valve. That pressure, or lack of pressure, results in valve movement. The valve acts as a doorway for a different oil pressure to go past/through/around the valve. The oil that moves past the valve is directed to a clutch piston. That oil pressure moves the piston and smashes (or applies) the clutch pack. That applied clutch directly affects the planetary gear set.
Note: I mention clutch pack. This applies to the band, too.
It will either:
1) Cause a portion of the gear set to rotate.
2). Prevent a portion of the gear set from rotating.
மிக்க நன்றி அருமையான பதிவு👏👏👏
Hey man great video thank you! I’m having issue with my 4l60e. I have no second gear when the trans is cold, below roughly 100 degrees. After driving for about 5 minutes, everything operates normally. I’m stumped. Fluid level is ok.
maybe not enough oil presure when cold
Man I rebuilt my trans about 4 years ago .I did it with UA-cam step by step first time it runs I've been to ceader city Utah also LA and and Las Vegas New Mexico.By the way I live in Las Vegas Nevada, but now my transmission Isn't shifting right im thinking Maybe sticky v oil, dirty oil.Maybe sticky valve something got Stuck in side the valve body making it slip between gears also 3 n 4 did I do something wrong?
Love the videos. Just came across mine not wanting to shift into last at 50-55 Just more rpm not shifting No codes
Could be dealing with an AFL Valve that's wore out (actually the valve bore). Could also be a leaking bore plug for the 4-3 Sequence Valve.
I would imagine that you'd have a code, though. If the PCM is commanding the trans to up-shift to 4th gear, the PCM will expect to see the engine RPM drop, after the shift. When it does not drop, the PCM may throw a code for incorrect gear ratio.
Great video. My problem is going into 1st gear. My check engine light came on and my OD light started blinking. When I start out I can feel it clunk into gear. My code reads 07000 which gives me to many possibilities. No problem in any other gear. Any suggestions?
Rebuilt 4l60e initially no reverse, fixed reverse now nothing in any foward gear, I'm almost certain sprag is good, I did thorough inspection when I had it tore down, any ideas where I should look first
If you have a short or problem in electrical circuit that goes to transmission could this effect function of it working at all. Tcc regulator valve is stuck open
great video, my head hurts with great Info Overload. I'm trying to understand my 2002 Acura TL transm shift problem. I lost power while driving on Hwy, I went to pass and lost acceleration power. RPM up - speed dropped. after engine cooled down I could drive enough to get off Hwy. Acura in driveway now ( towed home) I can drive around block & in 5 minutes trans Slipping. I've changed Trans fluid, What's next step ? should I change out solenoids Thanks in advance, Woody
I put in a rebuilt 4l60e into my trailblazer 2004. It ran great for about 5days. I was on the freeway doin about 70 and the tranny kicked out of gear, like it was in neutral. I coasted off the freeway and got it to the house. I went through a lot of ideas why. My linkage, neutral safety switch, finally I ended up taking my tranny out and I found the bearing for the back of the tranny was blown out.
I knew that in order to get to it I had to tear it completely down. In doing so I found the stater was shattered. That would explain the no pressure in the tranny. I replaced it and put it back together, now it is stuck in first gear.
What you think?
Dude great video lol I was double checking removing a transmission for a rear main seal and came across your channel very insightful
Right on!
Glad you found the channel.
This was a perfect video and incredibly helpful! Does the 1-2 shift solenoid also control the transmission shifting from 2nd gear into 3rd?
The 2-3 Shift Solenoid controls the 2-3 Shift Valve-train, which controls that upshift.
This was incredibly informative. I hope you enjoy every dollar of ad/youtube revenue 😂 question though, is ac delco a better replacement than genuine gm shift solenoid?
I've got a late lunging shift from first into second. I've changed my 1-2 accumulator to the pistonless accumulator and I changed my 1-2 solenoid. The problem still persists. Should I get back in there and change the 1-2 valve? I was thinking it might also be the servo. Thank you for this video!
Guess it's possible that the 1-2 shift valve could be sticking. But, if there's a problem with the 1-2 Shift Valve, it will also affect 3-4 upshift. The 1-2 Shift Valve is also partially responsible for the 3-4 upshift.
Have you checked the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)?
The PCM uses info it receives from the TPS, in order to determine shift timing. There's more to this, but I'm just trying to keep it short.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for the reply! I have changed the throttle position sensor as well and still have the issue.
I am working on the Allison transmission problem. Tipper TRUCK.
My problem is that my car's transmission does not 'engage' when cold. Nothing happens with the shifter in 'drive' until a few minutes have passed, then if 'kicks-in' and the car moves. However, withe the engine/transmission at normal operating temperature the transmission behaves normally.
Thanks for the video! Best explain on youtube so far!
Right on!
Thanks for dropping me a line.
the AFL valve when the solenoid is removed is not coming out, it seems stuck. The other valve from the other solenoid just snaps right out by the spring freely. This one doesnt. So i guess what im saying is how do I remove it and clean it up to get it to slide freely? It moves just a little back and forth. thanks man
I'm sure it has to move freely like the other to work
Would this cause no auto first gear(seems like it is on neutral) but have manual first? I can manually shift 1-2 then back into drive and it will shift and drive as normal at highway speeds no problem. When it gets to downshifting, coming to a stop in”D”, 2-1 it is as if it is in neutral. Come to complete stop and will not go again until I manually shift to 1. 🤷♂️
It sounds like you may be dealing with a failed Input Sprag.
Check out these two (2) videos to learn more about the power flow through the trans.
Power Flow (Shifter in D): ua-cam.com/video/IfOqbTqKubE/v-deo.html
Power Flow (Manually Shifting): ua-cam.com/video/6kfAuXJFYFE/v-deo.html
Questions:
1). Was the transmission recently rebuilt?
2). Was there a loud bang right before you experienced this problem?
@@SouthpawAutoworks wasn’t recently built. I mean… 8,000 miles ago. So, the rear diff, ring and pinion exploded, after I put a new one in this problem was present on the first test drive.
What happens if the transmission takes 3 minutes to move after engaging in drive, especially when cold,tried to change oil but still the same.
Do the same thing apply to the 4l80e transmission???
I have a question or 2. First I have an 08' 4l60e that has a short to ground in the 3-2 downshift solenoid wiring . I have a scan tool that is capable of commanding 1-2 , 3-4 , tcc on/off , tcc enable/unenable, 3-2 solenoid and upshift 1-2-3-4 and 4-3-2-1 and it shows Me if the 1-2 sol is on/off and 3-4 on/off and tcc enable/unenable........ for each of the commanded states. Oh yes also pc . So when I start commanding 1-2 sol on it is in 3rd gear commanded until I command 1-2 sol on etc at which point it goes into 1st gear commanded and seems to command upshifts successfully 1-2-3-4 and 4-3-2-1. commanding the 3-2 on does not work it stays off. Driving vehicle upshifts1-2-3-4 normally and slowing down to turn or ? it downshifts normally. at 30 or 40 or 50 or ? it will not downswhift unless I manually pull it down. I replaced 3-2 sol for 30$ and the tcm for 80$. Before that I tried resetting the tcm unsuccessfully. I have been inspecting the wiring from the tcm and inside trans and where the sol control wiring enters/exits the trans for missing insulation but so far the wiring is in fairly good shape. At this point Im leaning towards the wiring as it makes its way up bell housing and across engine or the ecm for the short to ground. Vehicle is chevy express 1500 4.3l which Im sure You know creates ALOT of heat especially in Phoenix, AZ . Do You have an opinion as to the most likely location of the short to ground in the 3-2 circuit ? 1 more thing there is what looks like a diode in the rear bottom of the valve body that appears to have some damage/missing plastic/nylon that maybe is supposed to seal fluid out ? Maybe ? Thank You sincerely,
Christopher Frost
P.S. Sorry about the short book
It's not until you watch a video like this that you actually get an appreciate of the genius that went into something we take for granted every day. Just coming up with the concept is one thing? Buy then actually engineere it, that's a whole new beast. Anyway I have a question for anyone who might be able to help? I'm running the 4L60e transmission and recently had work done to the motor. A full rebuild with a few modifications. A stage 2 cam. Performance headers into 2 & half" exhaust with high flow cats. As well as a cold air performance intake. Plus a few other tweaks. So now the shift points are out and other than dropping a manual gearbox in. And or fitting a stand alone transmission system? Is there a way it can adjust the shift points using a GM Tech 2 scan tool that is specifically set up for my model of car. It's the same one the dealership use when they go over it? And seeing that I've now modified the engine shouldn't have the PCM tuned /programmed to match the the newly modified engine? I was told that if I had the proper scan tool which I do. Can anyone give me a heads up on programming a PCM. Any help would be much appreciated.
Nice work 👏! Please give some knowledge on the tcm how it works and how to check if it's good or bad ..... thanks
Would love to cover that topic!.....when time permits.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
Thanks for dropping me a line!
My 1997 GMC 1500 truck with a 5.7 liter vortec engine with a 4l60e transmission.My trans was rebuilt 12 years ago & a trans go shift kit with corvette servo.Note my filter & fluid has not been changed since.Last week while driving my truck just felt like it went in neutral.I managed to pull in a gas station & added a quart of tranny fluid.I about a 1 mile managed to drive home but my rpm's were kinda high ,but made it to my apartment .Now when starting when I put it in gear when I give it gas it tries to go forward and backwards.do you think a change of fluid and filter will help? The tranny has not made any noises,but found tranny fluid under truck leaks under truck in the last couple of weeks.Any advice you could give would be appreciated.
Amazing way to explain the basic! Awesome work!! Fully subscribed!!
Thanks, Alejandro! Welcome aboard!
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you! Your explanation helps me a lot! I'm trying to make a test bench for automatic transmission from the electronic point of view and honestly have no idea of the basic to start the project. Thank you again!!
If the 1-2 solenoid malfunctions and turns off when the 2-3 solenoid is commanded on would this cause a third gear shift flare like neutral? Been having some electrical problems with my ECM I believe. The 2-3 flair followed the new transmission
First great channel. I have learned quite a bit from your video series and they're put together amazing. Thank you.
I have a question about reverse in a 04 suburban 4l60e. It's a rebuilt transmission from global transmission has approximately 45000 on it. Has had regular fluid and filter changes since I put it in. I do light towing, small boat, dirt bikes at most about 1 ton of weight.
Reverse is now becoming hard to engage. When put in reverse it acts like it is slipping at first. With light reving of the Engine it will slowly creep backwards if on flat ground. If on a slope nose of car pointing down, trying to back up a hill it will not move. If you feather the throttle it will eventually engage. Sometimes with a clunk sometimes just slips right in. Once engaged I have full reverse no slip works great. I have checked the fluid. Nice red color no smells of burnt clutch. I've drained just a bit of fluid, not a full change , but no signs of clutch material or metal particles. I've watched and read multiple things on reverse issues on the 4l60e but non seem to target my specific problem. I've been driving it like this for the past 3 months. I know not exactly the right thing to do. But the symptoms have not changed it seems no worse than when it first happened. Yes this was an immediate problem. Worked fine then one day it didn't. Would truly appreciate your thoughts. Just trying to figure out if this is a sun shell issue, servo issue, reverse pressure boost , or maybe even a shift solenoid issue. Or is it just screwed and I once again need a new transmission.
Thank you for your time
That's interesting...
It has me wondering if the shifter is not adjusted correctly. I understand that this problem has occurred out of nowhere. Always good to circle back to the basics, and go from there.
Questions:
1). When the problem arises, if you move the shifter ever so slightly to the left (and/or to the right) of Reverse, does this affect the symptom?
2). When the problem occurs, can you stop trying Reverse, and manually shift the trans to "1". Accelerate to a speed that would make sense to upshift....but, instead of up-shifting, just let your foot off of the gas. What happens?
A). Does the vehicle coast as though it's in Neutral?
B). Or does the vehicle quickly decelerate (engine braking)?
Thank you for the positive feedback!
PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel.
Here's an easy way to share...
1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview)
ua-cam.com/video/y3Vixa_Ec1E/v-deo.html
60-Second Preview of the video you just watched:
ua-cam.com/video/fWPSaLeaOXI/v-deo.html
Moving the shifter in any direction doesn't effect it. I've also checked the cable and shift position it moves as it should and locks into each shift position correctly. As for deceleration in first it does not coast when lifting off the accelerater. I should also mention it shifts perfectly in all other gears I can also manually shift through the gears properly. Fluid has always been kept at recommended levels using ac Delco fluid.
I've been researching the shift manifold. Could the diaphragm be cracked in that not creating the proper signal?
Thank you for your help. Just trying to diagnose this properly before just throwing parts at it.
Incredibly helpful explanation
Glad to hear that!
Wonderful Presentation.....YOU JUST WON A NEW SUBSCRIBER...THANKS
Welcome aboard!
The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line, Jose.
hi sir, is it okay if i will cut the wire of TCC solenoid? If ever my tcc solenoid is frequently engaging?
That was very informative thank you. I just rebuilt my 2005 Honda Odyssey transmission. It runs great but once it warms up a little it shudders when leaving from a stop. However, if I manually put it in first gear a give it gas it doesn't shudder. I manually shift to second then Drive and all is well. The problem only occurs when I'm in Drive and start to go. I did not replace any of the electronics/solenoids as I thought they were working when the transmission went out. Any thoughts? Much appreciated.
Not sure.
I will say that many transmissions can be operated with generic fluid, or even bulk fluid (with a vehicle/transmission specific additive, added during transmission filling). However, this is not the best practice with Honda transmissions.
If you ran some generic type of fluid, you might want to try running genuine Honda ATF. The dealerships carry it. Can probably find it online, too.
Wishing you the best of luck on this matter.
@@SouthpawAutoworks I did use Honda ATF. I wonder why it does it only after it warms up?
ive done engine work since i was a kid im hoping i can duplicate my Success in Engines as well as in Transmissions im working on a 1997 astro Van!! Thanks for SHARING!!!!!!
Right on!
You bet. Thanks for commenting.
@@SouthpawAutoworks greetings
Fantastically explained
Glad you liked it.
Thanks for dropping me a line.