Hey thanks again mate I just found these replies. So I've ordered nearly everything for this transmission. The one I have in my car that I'll build next is the one I'd like to shoot ypu questions about. I've picked a few parts in your videos I'd like to clear up before I go ahead with it. Thanks again mate very informative keep it up
Hi Jarrod, thanks again for watching...Im in the process of setting up a consulting service where folks can speak with me to get assistance with their transmission projects, diagnosis/troubleshooting or anything else related where more extensive help beyond UA-cam is needed. Rates will be reasonable (I can't do it for free) but folks will have a lot more time to gather the input they need to execute their rebuilds successfully. Reach out to me via my Facebook page and I'll DM you my number and set up a day/time for us to chat...I use 'WhatsApp' for international customers/clients so you'll want to download that if you don't already have it. My FB page: facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565989906020
Nick, you are awesome. Thank you for breaking down valve body and why/what you do for modifications to fit an application. This is a great vid for tinkerers like myself that want to learn. Great info, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!!
Great information I’ve built my own 4l65e out of my 04 Escalade ESV with your help and the training videos from transmission bench. Trans works great and I’m building another for fun. Thanks man keep it up
@@nickstransmissions it was a bit of a rough ride I’ll admit I went at it with no information on the first round and learned as I went. First try was catastrophic cost me a new reverse drum and band. I made so many mistakes from poor Teflon seal installs to not getting things clean enough. I learned thought and bought all the special tools to do it right. Really appreciate your videos and giving your time to the people who want your help. Have a great day
I will be undergoing my 1995 4l60e build with ypur videos. I'm super novice but your videos are giving me confidence. I'm in Australia so believe me when I tell you parts are hard to get and crazy expensive. I've found summit has alot of what I need. But I cannot find the correct rostra harness unless I'm getting it wrong. And most electrical. Also can ypu point me in the direction of where ypu get ypur seal kits please? I have a second 4L60-E that was built professionally in a shop and never used but it was 10 years ago. So I will be pulling it down after I get this first one right to replace all the seals. And swap out smart shell and a few other things I can see the technology was different back then. Thanks again for the videos. I look forward to ypur tuning videos haha.
Hi Jarrod, good on you for taking on your first transmission build and thank you in advance for using my videos to help you! eBay Australia, transpartswarehouse.com and Transtar (in addition to Summit) are likely your best bet for all of the parts, including paper/rubber kits as I believe all ship parts world wide. Same with the electrical/electronic parts. The Rostra harness you need services 1993-2002; that will work for your 1995 4L60E. Search eBay or Google "Rosta wiring harness 93-02" and you'll find it listed.
This is the video I didn't know that I needed but have been looking for lol. Great job Nick keep them coming. Are these pretty much all of the vb mods on the 60e?
Just subscribed, I’m always looking to learn with my 94 impala SS that’s no PWM in the transmission, it’s controlled through the PCM. A pain in the a$$ cause it’s obd1 & not getting not codes for the tranny kinda freaks me out. Jus subscribed & thank you for sharing, rock on
Thank you for the views, sub and kind words, Leo! Yep, no PWM TCC in the 1993-94 units but PWM is present for the 3-2 control valve up through 1995...1996+ then went to PWM for the TCC and On-Off for the 3-2 control valve. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the information Nick! Your videos have been extremely helpful. I was hoping to maybe ask for some advice. I have a stock 1995 C1500 with a 4L60E that has a super late and harsh 1-2 shift. So far, I've purchased the torlon balls, a new separator plate with gaskets, a sonnax pin less accumulator piston kit (all 3), the tcc block-off valve, as well as a corvette servo kit. Would it be beneficial to drill the separator plate (if so, what size)? Also, can I use the stock springs or would it be worth purchasing a transgo shift kit? Lastly, I'm not sure whether or not to purchase a boost valve since I'll already be knee deep into this project. I'd appreciate any advice you could send my way. Cheers!
Hi Morewaterslides, thank you for watching and the compliments. First thing I'd do is check your servo travel...Remove the servo assembly, then take off the o-rings and large, front scarf cut seal...Then reinstall the assembly, including the main return spring, and cover snap ring...Then push inwards on the servo cover and see how far the assembly will travel before it comes to a complete stop. You shouldnt have more than .175" of inboard travel. If you do, shim the servo... Next check the 1-2 accumulator housing, if you haven't already done so. Your 1-2 acc spring may be broken. Installing the corvette servo and Sonnax pinless will make that 1-2 shift even worse/more harsh so I'd keep the 1-2 acc piston and spring set up factory for now (or even install a softer spring, if you can find one...Overly harsh, late 1-2 shifts will eventually break the band - ive seen many of these come in with broken bands and no 2nd and 4th gear complaints... Drill your 2-3 and 3-4 feeds along with the band release to .093. Leave the 1-2 shift feed hole in the plate the same for now. Lastly, purchase the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 as that boost valve is likely worn out by now.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick! This put my mind at ease. I'll be sure to update my progress in the coming weeks when parts come in and the job is done.
@@nickstransmissions Finally got everything installed! I did however make one minor mistake. I installed the connector to the pressure control solenoid in reverse. It ended blowing the trans fuse on the interior fuse panel as a result. Once corrected, the truck ran great! A jammed 1-2 check ball ended up being the major culprit to this project.
You're knockin' it outta the park, Nick. I have yet to install a kit. Nothing against them, I just don't do high HP units, and I've been able to firm up shifts without a kit well enough to please folks. Anyway, I always hear folks measure holes drilled in thousandths of an inch, but every bit set I own is fractional. Do you use metric bits? Or do you just use a dial caliper on your fractional bits?
Thanks again, Kevin. I stopped using shift kits for most transmissions a while ago as most of the time a shift kit isn't needed to calibrate shifts and achieve performance. I do use a kits for a couple transmission types for their corrective parts (i.e. the Transgo Tugger for 4R100s). All of my numbered drill bit sets are either metric or SAE and I just use whichever best fits the need. Some transmissions like the TH350 and TH400 can have the feed hole sizes expressed as 1/8 (.125) or 3/16 (.1875).
Hi Nick, I blocked off the 4th accumulator completely, Since its a ALL out build, i used a .236 check ball from a extra sonax kit i had, the factory VB check balls are to big and i was afraid to crack the transmission housing driving it in,, i smacked it in just below the bore surface, it seems its very tight and shouldnt blow out , seems good and seald too,
That should work but if it pops out (or if you build another one where you're wanting to block the 4th acc) use a quarter-inch set screw w/ a little red Loctite on it. This way you can remove it if it's undesirable for you at any time.
@@nickstransmissions Yes i seen vidoes where they use a 1/4" Tap and screw in a set screw, That would have been ideal but my Transmission is all assembled, should i put a dab of lock tight on that check ball i pounded in?
@@nickstransmissions How do i send you some? i just got a big 48 K-cup donut shop box from wall mart yesterday, Do you have a Websight or e-mail for your business?
Hi Nick, I sent you some Coffee, Much appreciated, Im just about ready to instll the new upgraded VB, That YZ vs DX accumulator bushing-valve is bothering me, I have both which one is the better one to use in my appreciation? it sounds like the DX with the smaller valve is the one to use?
Can you go in a little more deth on the 3-4 shift valve, as far as assembly, and a look at what it looks like when it moves? Is there spring pressure on it? I think im having some issues with mine
Hi Eric, thank you for watching...What drivability symptoms are you having? The 3-4 shift valve simply strokes to enable apply oil to go into the 4th gear servo apply circuit, enabling an upshift from 3rd; it's a relatively simple valve train.
Morning! Are pinless accumulators a good upgrade for replacing the factory ones. See if i can get firm shifts without sk and do a few updates to valvebody.
They are but your 1-2 shift will be a little bit firmer, all other things equal. The 1-2 shift will be more firm if you pair the pinless piston with Sonnax heavy duty accumulator spring.
Hi Nick, Would it be better to get the Fitz ALL valve for the TCC on-off instead of using check balls etc? And on the 3-2 down shift does anyone make a upgraded valve or is the Transgo purple tight wound spring our only option? and if using the purple spring is a spacer still required in front of the 3-2 solenoid
If your bore is worn and the factory valves are not sealing adequately (i.e. holding less than 15 Hg) then I'd do the Fitzall valve or Transgo's valve that comes in their shift kits. You can do either or with those 3-2 valves (control and downshift) - use whatever works to block them both inboard and install the 3-2 downshift valve spring inside the AFL spring.
@@nickstransmissions OK as far as the Valve body goes i want to double cleck it, I reached out to the Builder and he said he doesnt remember exactly what he did to it, I asked him a few questions like if he turned the TTC valve from a PWM to a on-off and what he did to the 3-2 circuit, he said he doesnt remember, it was a long time ago, i have this 4L70 for since 2017 in my basement and the builder built it for my friend a few years before i got it, anyway when it comes to the valve body What are the most important things i sould do to it for Performance & Reliability, Also what should i do with the 4th accumulator thats up in the case?
@LSXType - the video has all the answers to your questions, assuming you haven't found them yet. Sorry, didn't see this latest reply until now (no notification from YT).
@@nickstransmissions Hey Nick i pulled the pan and then the VB, i found a few things i dont like, One of the bathTubs in the VB is mashed up bad and the Separator plate is beat to hell in 2 spots where the check balls go , so i just ordered a new VB and Transgo plate and gaskets from Central Valve bodies, Also they had the 1-2 accumulator (sonnax pinless piston)in the bore first then the spring , Also the 4th accumulator is set up the same way, I guess ill order up a Sonnax Performance Pack kit and set them up there way, Not sure why the bathtub and plate got beat up that bad but im am going to use the plastic check balls this time , also i believe that the Sonnax TCC valve provided in the kit makes it a ON-off TCC and also regulates the TCC pressure to 100psi so it doesnt get over pressurized Correct me if im wrong, what doesnt come in the kit is the 2-3 "HD- Performance" shift Valve, i never used one before but since this is a high end build i need everything thats available, Have you used this 2-3 performance valve in any of your builds? Walter
Hi Nick when it comes to drilling out the AFL hole on the separator plate Transgo says .093, Sonnax says .052, You mention that TransGo might have you do a .093 hole because they supply a White spring to put inside the AFL OE spring, I am using a combination of the Sonnax Performance Pack shift kit and a TransGo SK 4L60 kit, not sure what to do, My Valve body is a Central Referbished and the guy over at Central said its strong, The Separator plate that i am using is a TransGo that Central sent me and Recommended, There are a few other holes that TransGo showes to drill out to .093 but Sonnax doesn't show that, Please Help, Walter
Simplicity wins, complexity kills and you are introducing way too much complexity into this build of yours for it to have any chance of being successful. Take all the parts from the Transgo SK4L60E kit and put them back in the box and use that kit on another build. Install all the Sonnax parts following their instructions, except for the TCC and AFL valve which Central Valve Bodies would have installed their own valve trains in those locations.
@@nickstransmissions Yes your right!! OK so should i drill out the AFL hole to .052 Like Sonnax says and use there shim on the 1-2 accumulator valve , the shim is a piece of metal you slide in threw the VB slit opening, The shim slides betwwen the VB wall and spring, i guess instead of replacing the spring with a stiffer spring like TransGo does the shim does the same thing to the OE spring,, Im sure you already know,, Maybe you know the answer to this, I have a both DX and a YZ accumulator sleves the DX is the most popular and i believe the YZ is a better piece, Not sure how they differ as i havent compared them yett, anyway maybe you know, Walter
Follow exactly what Sonnax tells you to do in their instructions as they have calibrated their kit/parts to work together per the instructions they give. You can install the metal shim in the acc housing if you'd like or leave it out - it's your call...I never compared the different accumulator regulator valve housings but I imagine some may be slightly longer than others and/or come with different springs from the factory.
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, Good Morning, I compared the DX to The YZ sleve & Valve, Ok the sleves look exactly the same "But" the YZ valve wont fit inside the DX sleve, the YZ valve is slightly bigger, and the YZ valve doesn't go all the way into the DX sleve , There is a difference, From what i gather the YZ sleve & Valve will flow more so i used it, I beleve the YZ was used in corvettes, The DX is the most common and used in Trucks, I also installed the sonnax Shim
Makes sense as to the differences...The accumulator regulator valve's job is to adjust the flow of fluid to the accumulator portion of the circuit so the more flow to the accumulation side of the piston would translate to a longer dwell time between the beginning of the shift and the end of the shift (ie a slower shift) where as less fluid translates to a faster, firmer shift...But this is just one of the many variables that impact the speed and firmness of your 1-2 shift...
on that plate you have a small elevation(where one ball goes in), why is like that? I see some plate that are flat. in your video is below of #2 on the 1-2 area?
If you're referring to the steel sleeve, that's from the company Fitzall and it's designed to repair the 1-2 check ball location which is often heavily worn and occassionally the check ball will get stuck in the plate. The sleeve prevents that from ever happening.
Quick question brother I’m fixing my 2003 suburban 4L60 E will that fix all tcc valve will it work for mine and if so, any issues I’m at the point that I stopped working on the valve body while I was trying to research this thanks
Hi Javier, yes - just purchase the Fitzall valve for your vintage (2001-2005; type 'Fitzall 4L60E 2003 in Google search bar to find it on Amazon) and it will address TCC regulator bore leaks and convert the PWM TCC apply to an on-off. If you are still getting P1870/Component Slipping DTC after you install that valve then the cause is somewhere else in the transmission or the torque converter itself.
Hi Tip, thank you for watching. Yep, I've seen that as well...Not sure what those people were thinking as the gasket set is literally less than $2.00 at most places.
The 3-2 and PWM solenoids are the same for 1995 however in 1996, the 3-2 control solenoid changed so if you're shopping for a 3-2 control solenoid for a 1995 unit, the trans parts place will sell you a PWM solenoid...The 3-2 control solenoid, valve and spring were eliminated starting in 2009.
@@nickstransmissions Mine is 99, but the question is: if the TCC and the 3-2 are the same, because when you disassemble the head where the plug goes there is a difference. But the valves apparently, externally, are the same...
@@minduca99 Please re-read my above response...They are the same for 1995 ONLY...In 1996, the 3-2 CTRL solenoid changed so they're not the same in your 1999 unit. if you had mentioned you were looking that information applicable to a 1999 model year, I would have provided a shorter answer applicable only what year you're working on.
@@nickstransmissions So, now I understand, I really hadn't understood. And I still think I wasn't complete in my questions, I'm still in doubt!? (sorry, I don't speak English, I'm from Brazil). And I have a 99 Chevrolet Blazer v6 or GMC Blazer. Does this apply to it? In Brazil, few people have the knowledge to maintain this transmission...
You should have a 'Jimmy' if you have the GMC variant. Wouldn't matter - all 1999 4L60Es are the same with respect to the solenoids. It may be a good idea to put my responses into Google or another translator tool that renders what I type in Portuguese, assuming that is your native language.
Hi Dominic, there could be a number of reasons including a leak in the 2-3 apply circuit (like partially pinched turbine shaft sealing rings), excessive 3-4 clutch pack clearance, forward drum leaking at the input shaft, improperly drilled spacer plate, solenoid B delay in coming off, drag in the 2-3 shift or 2-3 shuttle valve, etc.
@@nickstransmissions I have it apart. pressure tested the drum sitting in the pump with and without the reverse input drum. I change the rings a second time with a resizer and had no change. 3-4 clutch clearance is .040, was .030 when I installed it. Band clearance is .090, was .070 when I installed it. I pressure tested the input drum and no leaks around the shaft. I installed a new capsule on the initial build, and another when I changed the valve body trying to fix the problem. There's only 2 things I found, one is the servo pin bore will only pull 7" of vacuum, the other is the new spacer plate afl hole is .093, but while not ideal I can't see how that would give no 2-3 shift at wot. I was thinking maybe the pin bore is letting band release oil into the 4th gear piston, but I'm not sure if that would be able to delay the shift. I checked all the usual suspects, but I'm stumped.
The spacer plate's AFL balance hole is definitely a problem for WOT shifting, especially at higher power levels. Think about the factory orifice diameter and compare it to .093 in your plate - thats a fair amount of AFL pressure bleed off at a time when you need max AFL pressure. Did you install load release springs in the 3-4 pack? Have you blocked the 3-2 control valve inboard? Do you have an inner spring inside the main AFL valve spring? What about the AFL valve itself - how much vacuum is it holding (should be minimum of 18" for anything high performance and my standard is 20")? What are the hole sizes for the band release (2-3 accumulator) and 2-3 feed? What boost valve is installed? You have a 2-3 shift at WOT but it's flaring due to a delay in the full compression of that clutch pack relative to band release timing. That AFL balance hole is something id fix via peening the plate or getting another one...Band clearance is fine, has nothing to do with the 2-3 flare. That is all sourced within the 3-4 apply circuit or clutch pack set up unless you have a weak solenoid or defective PCM (I've seen examples of both).
@@nickstransmissions It's actually not a flare, just doesn't shift to 3rd unless I really let off the throttle. Running the car on the lift if I put it in manual low and get the speed up with light throttle as soon as i put the selector in 2 it shifts perfectly to 2nd, then if I get the speed up higher and put the selector in D it takes about 3 full seconds to shift to 3rd. Once in 3rd it doesn't slip. It's not releasing the band before the 3rd clutches apply, so no flare. I can't tell if the 3rd clutches are on before the band release, but it doesn't feel like a tie up. It's almost like a delayed shift but the timing between the band release and clutches is okay. This one is a stock rebuild with no performance mods except a .500 boost valve. I did change the seperator plate because a ball was through it. It has the same exact shift problem with 2 different valve bodies. I did not however try a different plate before tearing it back down. I should have. I expected to find a cut teflon shaft seal, but they look perfect.
Sounds like a 3-4 circuit line pressure problem to me likely caused by that AFL balance orifice (and/or perhaps other things)...Put a new plate on it, keep the hole size factory, drill everything else as you have previously and upgrade the 3-4 pack to a 8 or 9 clutch stack up...Alto and Raybestos both make 'max packs' or you can build your own by machining apply/backing plates and mixing/matching steels and frictions until you get the stack up you want. Cope Racing also makes a high perf drum that allows for 8 or 9 clutches and steels, may be worth taking a look at.
Hi Chris, it's hard to say without knowing your feed hole sizes for the 2-3 feed, band rel and exhaust as well as 3-4 clutch clearance & what 2nd gear servo you have installed. If you reply with those numbers, I can give my opinion...
@ has vette servo 1/2 hole is .080 2-3 .110 3-4 .110 3-4 accumulator delete has boost valve TCC valve blocked to make it on/off system I don’t remember if I drilled band release and exhaust
The band release hole is the most critical part of the 2-3 shift calibration in the context of your question...Find out exactly what you did with that orifice and let me know...
@@nickstransmissions the 3-4 clearance not sure it’s the stock stack up 5 kolean steels and 6 alto red frictions I put it on 3rd manual and dig it it’s got no slip 2nd as well just when it shifts out to 3rd
Hi Nick do you have a contact # , i would live to get a sleve to block off the 2-3 valve and the solenoid , Also whatever you use for the TCC regulator valve, Not sure what to do exactly with the 4th accumulator, i need max apply for 4th, Maybe i can just send you my Valve body and you can set it up? Please let me know, Walter
Hi Walter, you can run whichever year Fitzall valve for the TCC regulator if it's both worn and in need of conversion to an on-off. Otherwise two .187 check balls in between the spring and both valves (can be acquired via Amazon) will accomplish the same thing for basically nothing. If you have the inboard valve that is cylindrical and has a 'pocket' for the spring, simply turn it around in the bore so the back of that valve faces the spring. That will also convert the PWM to an 'on-off' mechanically. Block the 4th acc feed in the case with a cup plug and leave the bore itself completely empty.
@@nickstransmissions Hey Thank You for getting back to me so fast, I appreciate it!!, OK Not sure if you remember but im the guy with the 87 Buick T-type LS conversion, 4L65E (2008 Valve Body) , She slips in 4th, 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shift good and she even cruises good in 4th But if i lay into her the slightest she slips, I believe that the Bet Performance Servo is the culprit, I remember i didnt like the way the servo was kinda loose when assembled, I reached out to the owner of the company and he said to scuf the seeling ring with some light sand paper, Now he denies that he said that and says he told me to take the seal off and stretch but That sis not what he told me the first time, Anyway its funny because now has updated his servo and i believe its the 4th piston that is different, i believe he redesigned it and is using a factory OEM seal, He wont send me the the revised version with out paying and knows i had this issue from day one, so moving along i wanted to know if i should get a sonax super hold servo kit? Walter
You're welcome, Walter. How many miles on the transmission? Was it recently rebuilt or just installed as a used unit? 'Bet Performance' manufactured the servo assembly? You can install the Sonnax super hold servo to see if that fixes the problem; if it's only slipping in 4th gear I would investigate both the servo as well as 4th accumulator to see if the seal is excessively worn. Also verify your servo inboard travel - should be between .075-.125 for optimal band clearance.
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, Good Morning, Thansmission was brand new on a pallet , Long story short the Car is supercharged and makes a lot of power, And my Budget was to beef up the valve body and Servo assembly as best as i could for it to hold the gears, I know i need a fully Built Transmission for my application But for now i wasnt going to do 1/4 mile racing , Just a pull in the street and mostly cruising to some local car shows etc,, Yes Bet Performance makes the servo, i believe its a private independent guy, Not sure why i didnt get the Sonax to begin with, Anyway, i have a Car Cruise set up for june 2nd that i organize every year coming up and after that i would like to drop the pan and VB and set the valve body up the right way, I did a transgo shift kit and sonax 1-2 and foward pinless accumulators, I believe i didnt do anything to the 4th accumulator up in the case besides what Transgo said to do, I think replace the factory spring for a transgo spring, Anyway i have a good feeling that the Bet Performance servo is causing the issue, i believe that its leaking past the seal aand not holding the band, Cant go wrong at this point with a Sonax servo, but i would like to do the proper things to the VB for Max apply and hold, Not sure what else needs to be done and what to drill the spacer plate out to, i do have a PTC 2,800 stall with Lock up installed, Maybe you can help me with that, Walter
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, When using the Sonax servo i believe the holes in the spacer plate need to be drilled out larger than .093 that the Transgo kit requires , What hole sizes do you recommend?
Hey thanks again mate I just found these replies. So I've ordered nearly everything for this transmission. The one I have in my car that I'll build next is the one I'd like to shoot ypu questions about. I've picked a few parts in your videos I'd like to clear up before I go ahead with it. Thanks again mate very informative keep it up
Hi Jarrod, thanks again for watching...Im in the process of setting up a consulting service where folks can speak with me to get assistance with their transmission projects, diagnosis/troubleshooting or anything else related where more extensive help beyond UA-cam is needed. Rates will be reasonable (I can't do it for free) but folks will have a lot more time to gather the input they need to execute their rebuilds successfully.
Reach out to me via my Facebook page and I'll DM you my number and set up a day/time for us to chat...I use 'WhatsApp' for international customers/clients so you'll want to download that if you don't already have it.
My FB page: facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565989906020
Nick, you are awesome. Thank you for breaking down valve body and why/what you do for modifications to fit an application. This is a great vid for tinkerers like myself that want to learn. Great info, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!!
Thank you for the kind words, Jim!!
Great information I’ve built my own 4l65e out of my 04 Escalade ESV with your help and the training videos from transmission bench. Trans works great and I’m building another for fun. Thanks man keep it up
Awesome, Dirtriders, that's great to hear! Congrats on your first rebuild🍻
@@nickstransmissions it was a bit of a rough ride I’ll admit I went at it with no information on the first round and learned as I went. First try was catastrophic cost me a new reverse drum and band. I made so many mistakes from poor Teflon seal installs to not getting things clean enough. I learned thought and bought all the special tools to do it right. Really appreciate your videos and giving your time to the people who want your help. Have a great day
You're welcome, man...Glad you were able to power through it and get the vehicle back on the road. Thanks again for watching!
Thanks!
Thank you for the support, @LSXTtype!
Nice Job, I build alot of 4L60's and learned something new today
Thanks, John, great to hear! Please subscribe if you havent already. Ill be putting out more 4L and 6L videos in the coming days/weeks...
Hi Nick, nice, this is where I'm at! Thanks!!
You're welcome and thank you!
I will be undergoing my 1995 4l60e build with ypur videos. I'm super novice but your videos are giving me confidence. I'm in Australia so believe me when I tell you parts are hard to get and crazy expensive. I've found summit has alot of what I need. But I cannot find the correct rostra harness unless I'm getting it wrong. And most electrical. Also can ypu point me in the direction of where ypu get ypur seal kits please? I have a second 4L60-E that was built professionally in a shop and never used but it was 10 years ago. So I will be pulling it down after I get this first one right to replace all the seals. And swap out smart shell and a few other things I can see the technology was different back then. Thanks again for the videos. I look forward to ypur tuning videos haha.
Hi Jarrod, good on you for taking on your first transmission build and thank you in advance for using my videos to help you!
eBay Australia, transpartswarehouse.com and Transtar (in addition to Summit) are likely your best bet for all of the parts, including paper/rubber kits as I believe all ship parts world wide. Same with the electrical/electronic parts. The Rostra harness you need services 1993-2002; that will work for your 1995 4L60E. Search eBay or Google "Rosta wiring harness 93-02" and you'll find it listed.
This is the video I didn't know that I needed but have been looking for lol. Great job Nick keep them coming. Are these pretty much all of the vb mods on the 60e?
Thanks jchaire! Appreciate it...Those the mods that I am aware of but there may be others...
Just subscribed, I’m always looking to learn with my 94 impala SS that’s no PWM in the transmission, it’s controlled through the PCM. A pain in the a$$ cause it’s obd1 & not getting not codes for the tranny kinda freaks me out. Jus subscribed & thank you for sharing, rock on
Thank you for the views, sub and kind words, Leo! Yep, no PWM TCC in the 1993-94 units but PWM is present for the 3-2 control valve up through 1995...1996+ then went to PWM for the TCC and On-Off for the 3-2 control valve.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the clear explanation 👌
You're welcome, Speedfreak - thank you for watching!
Awesome man! Great info!
Thanks for the information Nick! Your videos have been extremely helpful. I was hoping to maybe ask for some advice. I have a stock 1995 C1500 with a 4L60E that has a super late and harsh 1-2 shift. So far, I've purchased the torlon balls, a new separator plate with gaskets, a sonnax pin less accumulator piston kit (all 3), the tcc block-off valve, as well as a corvette servo kit. Would it be beneficial to drill the separator plate (if so, what size)? Also, can I use the stock springs or would it be worth purchasing a transgo shift kit? Lastly, I'm not sure whether or not to purchase a boost valve since I'll already be knee deep into this project. I'd appreciate any advice you could send my way. Cheers!
Hi Morewaterslides, thank you for watching and the compliments. First thing I'd do is check your servo travel...Remove the servo assembly, then take off the o-rings and large, front scarf cut seal...Then reinstall the assembly, including the main return spring, and cover snap ring...Then push inwards on the servo cover and see how far the assembly will travel before it comes to a complete stop. You shouldnt have more than .175" of inboard travel. If you do, shim the servo...
Next check the 1-2 accumulator housing, if you haven't already done so. Your 1-2 acc spring may be broken. Installing the corvette servo and Sonnax pinless will make that 1-2 shift even worse/more harsh so I'd keep the 1-2 acc piston and spring set up factory for now (or even install a softer spring, if you can find one...Overly harsh, late 1-2 shifts will eventually break the band - ive seen many of these come in with broken bands and no 2nd and 4th gear complaints...
Drill your 2-3 and 3-4 feeds along with the band release to .093. Leave the 1-2 shift feed hole in the plate the same for now.
Lastly, purchase the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 as that boost valve is likely worn out by now.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick! This put my mind at ease. I'll be sure to update my progress in the coming weeks when parts come in and the job is done.
You're welcome, man!
@@nickstransmissions Finally got everything installed! I did however make one minor mistake. I installed the connector to the pressure control solenoid in reverse. It ended blowing the trans fuse on the interior fuse panel as a result. Once corrected, the truck ran great! A jammed 1-2 check ball ended up being the major culprit to this project.
You're knockin' it outta the park, Nick. I have yet to install a kit. Nothing against them, I just don't do high HP units, and I've been able to firm up shifts without a kit well enough to please folks. Anyway, I always hear folks measure holes drilled in thousandths of an inch, but every bit set I own is fractional. Do you use metric bits? Or do you just use a dial caliper on your fractional bits?
Thanks again, Kevin. I stopped using shift kits for most transmissions a while ago as most of the time a shift kit isn't needed to calibrate shifts and achieve performance. I do use a kits for a couple transmission types for their corrective parts (i.e. the Transgo Tugger for 4R100s).
All of my numbered drill bit sets are either metric or SAE and I just use whichever best fits the need. Some transmissions like the TH350 and TH400 can have the feed hole sizes expressed as 1/8 (.125) or 3/16 (.1875).
Hi Nick, I blocked off the 4th accumulator completely, Since its a ALL out build, i used a .236 check ball from a extra sonax kit i had, the factory VB check balls are to big and i was afraid to crack the transmission housing driving it in,, i smacked it in just below the bore surface, it seems its very tight and shouldnt blow out , seems good and seald too,
That should work but if it pops out (or if you build another one where you're wanting to block the 4th acc) use a quarter-inch set screw w/ a little red Loctite on it. This way you can remove it if it's undesirable for you at any time.
@@nickstransmissions Yes i seen vidoes where they use a 1/4" Tap and screw in a set screw, That would have been ideal but my Transmission is all assembled, should i put a dab of lock tight on that check ball i pounded in?
@@nickstransmissions or is there enough room to knock another checkball in , or should i just stake it
If it's in there good and well, just leave it alone.
BTW, I really like coffee😉☕️
@@nickstransmissions How do i send you some? i just got a big 48 K-cup donut shop box from wall mart yesterday, Do you have a Websight or e-mail for your business?
Hi Nick, I sent you some Coffee, Much appreciated, Im just about ready to instll the new upgraded VB, That YZ vs DX accumulator bushing-valve is bothering me, I have both which one is the better one to use in my appreciation? it sounds like the DX with the smaller valve is the one to use?
Thanks for the support, Walter...Dont worry about the bushing; most have the DX but the YZ one is fine as well.
@@nickstransmissions OK, thank you, I blocked off the 4th accumulator in the case with a check ball, Do i omit the check ball that goes in the case?
Yep, leave it out.
Can you go in a little more deth on the 3-4 shift valve, as far as assembly, and a look at what it looks like when it moves? Is there spring pressure on it? I think im having some issues with mine
Hi Eric, thank you for watching...What drivability symptoms are you having?
The 3-4 shift valve simply strokes to enable apply oil to go into the 4th gear servo apply circuit, enabling an upshift from 3rd; it's a relatively simple valve train.
Will sonnax 77754-04k also change the TCC pwm to on off TCC? or still will be PWM
See my reply in your comment in the HD2 video - put all replies to that one...Thanks, @salemzyoud!
Morning! Are pinless accumulators a good upgrade for replacing the factory ones. See if i can get firm shifts without sk and do a few updates to valvebody.
They are but your 1-2 shift will be a little bit firmer, all other things equal. The 1-2 shift will be more firm if you pair the pinless piston with Sonnax heavy duty accumulator spring.
Hi Nick, Would it be better to get the Fitz ALL valve for the TCC on-off instead of using check balls etc? And on the 3-2 down shift does anyone make a upgraded valve or is the Transgo purple tight wound spring our only option? and if using the purple spring is a spacer still required in front of the 3-2 solenoid
If your bore is worn and the factory valves are not sealing adequately (i.e. holding less than 15 Hg) then I'd do the Fitzall valve or Transgo's valve that comes in their shift kits. You can do either or with those 3-2 valves (control and downshift) - use whatever works to block them both inboard and install the 3-2 downshift valve spring inside the AFL spring.
@@nickstransmissions OK as far as the Valve body goes i want to double cleck it, I reached out to the Builder and he said he doesnt remember exactly what he did to it, I asked him a few questions like if he turned the TTC valve from a PWM to a on-off and what he did to the 3-2 circuit, he said he doesnt remember, it was a long time ago, i have this 4L70 for since 2017 in my basement and the builder built it for my friend a few years before i got it, anyway when it comes to the valve body What are the most important things i sould do to it for Performance & Reliability, Also what should i do with the 4th accumulator thats up in the case?
@LSXType - the video has all the answers to your questions, assuming you haven't found them yet. Sorry, didn't see this latest reply until now (no notification from YT).
@@nickstransmissions Hey Nick i pulled the pan and then the VB, i found a few things i dont like, One of the bathTubs in the VB is mashed up bad and the Separator plate is beat to hell in 2 spots where the check balls go , so i just ordered a new VB and Transgo plate and gaskets from Central Valve bodies, Also they had the 1-2 accumulator (sonnax pinless piston)in the bore first then the spring , Also the 4th accumulator is set up the same way, I guess ill order up a Sonnax Performance Pack kit and set them up there way, Not sure why the bathtub and plate got beat up that bad but im am going to use the plastic check balls this time , also i believe that the Sonnax TCC valve provided in the kit makes it a ON-off TCC and also regulates the TCC pressure to 100psi so it doesnt get over pressurized Correct me if im wrong, what doesnt come in the kit is the 2-3 "HD- Performance" shift Valve, i never used one before but since this is a high end build i need everything thats available, Have you used this 2-3 performance valve in any of your builds?
Walter
great fuckin video, hell yeah
Thanks, man!
Hi Nick when it comes to drilling out the AFL hole on the separator plate Transgo says .093, Sonnax says .052, You mention that TransGo might have you do a .093 hole because they supply a White spring to put inside the AFL OE spring, I am using a combination of the Sonnax Performance Pack shift kit and a TransGo SK 4L60 kit, not sure what to do,
My Valve body is a Central Referbished and the guy over at Central said its strong, The Separator plate that i am using is a TransGo that Central sent me and Recommended, There are a few other holes that TransGo showes to drill out to .093 but Sonnax doesn't show that, Please Help, Walter
Simplicity wins, complexity kills and you are introducing way too much complexity into this build of yours for it to have any chance of being successful.
Take all the parts from the Transgo SK4L60E kit and put them back in the box and use that kit on another build. Install all the Sonnax parts following their instructions, except for the TCC and AFL valve which Central Valve Bodies would have installed their own valve trains in those locations.
@@nickstransmissions Yes your right!!
OK so should i drill out the AFL hole to .052 Like Sonnax says and use there shim on the 1-2 accumulator valve , the shim is a piece of metal you slide in threw the VB slit opening, The shim slides betwwen the VB wall and spring, i guess instead of replacing the spring with a stiffer spring like TransGo does the shim does the same thing to the OE spring,, Im sure you already know,, Maybe you know the answer to this, I have a both DX and a YZ accumulator sleves the DX is the most popular and i believe the YZ is a better piece, Not sure how they differ as i havent compared them yett, anyway maybe you know, Walter
Follow exactly what Sonnax tells you to do in their instructions as they have calibrated their kit/parts to work together per the instructions they give.
You can install the metal shim in the acc housing if you'd like or leave it out - it's your call...I never compared the different accumulator regulator valve housings but I imagine some may be slightly longer than others and/or come with different springs from the factory.
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, Good Morning, I compared the DX to The YZ sleve & Valve, Ok the sleves look exactly the same "But" the YZ valve wont fit inside the DX sleve, the YZ valve is slightly bigger, and the YZ valve doesn't go all the way into the DX sleve , There is a difference, From what i gather the YZ sleve & Valve will flow more so i used it, I beleve the YZ was used in corvettes, The DX is the most common and used in Trucks, I also installed the sonnax Shim
Makes sense as to the differences...The accumulator regulator valve's job is to adjust the flow of fluid to the accumulator portion of the circuit so the more flow to the accumulation side of the piston would translate to a longer dwell time between the beginning of the shift and the end of the shift (ie a slower shift) where as less fluid translates to a faster, firmer shift...But this is just one of the many variables that impact the speed and firmness of your 1-2 shift...
on that plate you have a small elevation(where one ball goes in), why is like that? I see some plate that are flat. in your video is below of #2 on the 1-2 area?
If you're referring to the steel sleeve, that's from the company Fitzall and it's designed to repair the 1-2 check ball location which is often heavily worn and occassionally the check ball will get stuck in the plate. The sleeve prevents that from ever happening.
Quick question brother I’m fixing my 2003 suburban 4L60 E will that fix all tcc valve will it work for mine and if so, any issues
I’m at the point that I stopped working on the valve body while I was trying to research this thanks
Hi Javier, yes - just purchase the Fitzall valve for your vintage (2001-2005; type 'Fitzall 4L60E 2003 in Google search bar to find it on Amazon) and it will address TCC regulator bore leaks and convert the PWM TCC apply to an on-off. If you are still getting P1870/Component Slipping DTC after you install that valve then the cause is somewhere else in the transmission or the torque converter itself.
Hi Nick How do you reset the EPC it it was turned once ?
Hi Chris - you'd need to know the factory setting if you're referring to the EPC...I don't ever mess with it so couldn't say for sure.
I tore a 4L60e apart that wouldn't pull in 4 and it didn't have any value body gasket and spacer gasket. Why would anyone do that..???
Hi Tip, thank you for watching.
Yep, I've seen that as well...Not sure what those people were thinking as the gasket set is literally less than $2.00 at most places.
One division, the tcc pwm solenoid is equal to 3-2?
The 3-2 and PWM solenoids are the same for 1995 however in 1996, the 3-2 control solenoid changed so if you're shopping for a 3-2 control solenoid for a 1995 unit, the trans parts place will sell you a PWM solenoid...The 3-2 control solenoid, valve and spring were eliminated starting in 2009.
@@nickstransmissions Mine is 99, but the question is: if the TCC and the 3-2 are the same, because when you disassemble the head where the plug goes there is a difference. But the valves apparently, externally, are the same...
@@minduca99 Please re-read my above response...They are the same for 1995 ONLY...In 1996, the 3-2 CTRL solenoid changed so they're not the same in your 1999 unit. if you had mentioned you were looking that information applicable to a 1999 model year, I would have provided a shorter answer applicable only what year you're working on.
@@nickstransmissions So, now I understand, I really hadn't understood.
And I still think I wasn't complete in my questions, I'm still in doubt!? (sorry, I don't speak English, I'm from Brazil). And I have a 99 Chevrolet Blazer v6 or GMC Blazer. Does this apply to it? In Brazil, few people have the knowledge to maintain this transmission...
You should have a 'Jimmy' if you have the GMC variant. Wouldn't matter - all 1999 4L60Es are the same with respect to the solenoids.
It may be a good idea to put my responses into Google or another translator tool that renders what I type in Portuguese, assuming that is your native language.
fresh rebuild, I have a delayed 2-3shift particularly at wot. Any idea what could be causing that?
Hi Dominic, there could be a number of reasons including a leak in the 2-3 apply circuit (like partially pinched turbine shaft sealing rings), excessive 3-4 clutch pack clearance, forward drum leaking at the input shaft, improperly drilled spacer plate, solenoid B delay in coming off, drag in the 2-3 shift or 2-3 shuttle valve, etc.
@@nickstransmissions I have it apart. pressure tested the drum sitting in the pump with and without the reverse input drum. I change the rings a second time with a resizer and had no change. 3-4 clutch clearance is .040, was .030 when I installed it. Band clearance is .090, was .070 when I installed it. I pressure tested the input drum and no leaks around the shaft. I installed a new capsule on the initial build, and another when I changed the valve body trying to fix the problem. There's only 2 things I found, one is the servo pin bore will only pull 7" of vacuum, the other is the new spacer plate afl hole is .093, but while not ideal I can't see how that would give no 2-3 shift at wot. I was thinking maybe the pin bore is letting band release oil into the 4th gear piston, but I'm not sure if that would be able to delay the shift. I checked all the usual suspects, but I'm stumped.
The spacer plate's AFL balance hole is definitely a problem for WOT shifting, especially at higher power levels. Think about the factory orifice diameter and compare it to .093 in your plate - thats a fair amount of AFL pressure bleed off at a time when you need max AFL pressure.
Did you install load release springs in the 3-4 pack?
Have you blocked the 3-2 control valve inboard?
Do you have an inner spring inside the main AFL valve spring?
What about the AFL valve itself - how much vacuum is it holding (should be minimum of 18" for anything high performance and my standard is 20")?
What are the hole sizes for the band release (2-3 accumulator) and 2-3 feed?
What boost valve is installed?
You have a 2-3 shift at WOT but it's flaring due to a delay in the full compression of that clutch pack relative to band release timing. That AFL balance hole is something id fix via peening the plate or getting another one...Band clearance is fine, has nothing to do with the 2-3 flare. That is all sourced within the 3-4 apply circuit or clutch pack set up unless you have a weak solenoid or defective PCM (I've seen examples of both).
@@nickstransmissions It's actually not a flare, just doesn't shift to 3rd unless I really let off the throttle. Running the car on the lift if I put it in manual low and get the speed up with light throttle as soon as i put the selector in 2 it shifts perfectly to 2nd, then if I get the speed up higher and put the selector in D it takes about 3 full seconds to shift to 3rd. Once in 3rd it doesn't slip. It's not releasing the band before the 3rd clutches apply, so no flare. I can't tell if the 3rd clutches are on before the band release, but it doesn't feel like a tie up. It's almost like a delayed shift but the timing between the band release and clutches is okay. This one is a stock rebuild with no performance mods except a .500 boost valve. I did change the seperator plate because a ball was through it. It has the same exact shift problem with 2 different valve bodies. I did not however try a different plate before tearing it back down. I should have. I expected to find a cut teflon shaft seal, but they look perfect.
Sounds like a 3-4 circuit line pressure problem to me likely caused by that AFL balance orifice (and/or perhaps other things)...Put a new plate on it, keep the hole size factory, drill everything else as you have previously and upgrade the 3-4 pack to a 8 or 9 clutch stack up...Alto and Raybestos both make 'max packs' or you can build your own by machining apply/backing plates and mixing/matching steels and frictions until you get the stack up you want.
Cope Racing also makes a high perf drum that allows for 8 or 9 clutches and steels, may be worth taking a look at.
Any videos on 2-3 shift valve flare
None on that specifically - are you having a 2-3 flare shift in your 4L60E?
Hi Nick I rebuild my 4l60e it hold all gears good just when it shifts out to 3rd it’s got a flare what can it be the 2-3 exhaust hole to big ?
Hi Chris, it's hard to say without knowing your feed hole sizes for the 2-3 feed, band rel and exhaust as well as 3-4 clutch clearance & what 2nd gear servo you have installed. If you reply with those numbers, I can give my opinion...
@ has vette servo 1/2 hole is .080 2-3 .110 3-4 .110 3-4 accumulator delete has boost valve TCC valve blocked to make it on/off system I don’t remember if I drilled band release and exhaust
The band release hole is the most critical part of the 2-3 shift calibration in the context of your question...Find out exactly what you did with that orifice and let me know...
What is your 3-4 clutch pack clearance?
@@nickstransmissions the 3-4 clearance not sure it’s the stock stack up 5 kolean steels and 6 alto red frictions I put it on 3rd manual and dig it it’s got no slip 2nd as well just when it shifts out to 3rd
Does the epc solenoid have o-rings on it to seal it?
Nope, no o-rings or seals on the EPC.
Y'all are awesome at answering questions. Thank you.
You're welcome, man and thank you for watching!
Hi Nick do you have a contact # , i would live to get a sleve to block off the 2-3 valve and the solenoid , Also whatever you use for the TCC regulator valve, Not sure what to do exactly with the 4th accumulator, i need max apply for 4th, Maybe i can just send you my Valve body and you can set it up?
Please let me know,
Walter
Hi Walter, you can run whichever year Fitzall valve for the TCC regulator if it's both worn and in need of conversion to an on-off. Otherwise two .187 check balls in between the spring and both valves (can be acquired via Amazon) will accomplish the same thing for basically nothing. If you have the inboard valve that is cylindrical and has a 'pocket' for the spring, simply turn it around in the bore so the back of that valve faces the spring. That will also convert the PWM to an 'on-off' mechanically.
Block the 4th acc feed in the case with a cup plug and leave the bore itself completely empty.
@@nickstransmissions Hey Thank You for getting back to me so fast, I appreciate it!!, OK Not sure if you remember but im the guy with the 87 Buick T-type LS conversion, 4L65E (2008 Valve Body) , She slips in 4th, 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shift good and she even cruises good in 4th But if i lay into her the slightest she slips, I believe that the Bet Performance Servo is the culprit, I remember i didnt like the way the servo was kinda loose when assembled, I reached out to the owner of the company and he said to scuf the seeling ring with some light sand paper, Now he denies that he said that and says he told me to take the seal off and stretch but That sis not what he told me the first time, Anyway its funny because now has updated his servo and i believe its the 4th piston that is different, i believe he redesigned it and is using a factory OEM seal, He wont send me the the revised version with out paying and knows i had this issue from day one, so moving along i wanted to know if i should get a sonax super hold servo kit?
Walter
You're welcome, Walter.
How many miles on the transmission?
Was it recently rebuilt or just installed as a used unit?
'Bet Performance' manufactured the servo assembly?
You can install the Sonnax super hold servo to see if that fixes the problem; if it's only slipping in 4th gear I would investigate both the servo as well as 4th accumulator to see if the seal is excessively worn. Also verify your servo inboard travel - should be between .075-.125 for optimal band clearance.
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, Good Morning, Thansmission was brand new on a pallet , Long story short the Car is supercharged and makes a lot of power, And my Budget was to beef up the valve body and Servo assembly as best as i could for it to hold the gears, I know i need a fully Built Transmission for my application But for now i wasnt going to do 1/4 mile racing , Just a pull in the street and mostly cruising to some local car shows etc,, Yes Bet Performance makes the servo, i believe its a private independent guy, Not sure why i didnt get the Sonax to begin with, Anyway, i have a Car Cruise set up for june 2nd that i organize every year coming up and after that i would like to drop the pan and VB and set the valve body up the right way, I did a transgo shift kit and sonax 1-2 and foward pinless accumulators, I believe i didnt do anything to the 4th accumulator up in the case besides what Transgo said to do, I think replace the factory spring for a transgo spring,
Anyway i have a good feeling that the Bet Performance servo is causing the issue, i believe that its leaking past the seal aand not holding the band, Cant go wrong at this point with a Sonax servo, but i would like to do the proper things to the VB for Max apply and hold, Not sure what else needs to be done and what to drill the spacer plate out to, i do have a PTC 2,800 stall with Lock up installed, Maybe you can help me with that,
Walter
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, When using the Sonax servo i believe the holes in the spacer plate need to be drilled out larger than .093 that the Transgo kit requires , What hole sizes do you recommend?