Just did this procedure, one thing I did was buy 2 x 5 gallon buckets with markings on the side of them. Markings had increments of 2l. I filled the bucket with the pump to the 12l mark and the other bucket had the drain line in it. This way you know if the drain line bucket has 2l of old fluid I should be at 10l on the fill bucket and so on. Nice way to keep track if you're bad at eye balling like me.
Much easier to disconnect the transmission cooling lines going into to transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I dropped the pan and changed the filter then refilled the transmission with new fluid. Next, disconnect the cooling line at the cooler and then start it with it in neutral. The transmission is sucked up clean new fluid from the pan and pushing the old fluid out. Took one gallon before nice shiny red fluid started coming out. Of course you need to be adding fluid as you do this. I was alone so I let it pump out two quarts then shut it off-refilled the transmission-and did it again. This was on my 2010 F150 Fx2 with a 6R80. Entire process took 3 gallons of ATF.
I do this on three of my 4 Fords (my 2002 Ranger has a manual trans) and haven't had a single transmission issue on any of my cars. They're 2004, 2004 and 2006 cars and I live in Florida where the heat is brutal. This is cheap insurance and healthy maintenance. Ford transmission fluid (Mercon V in my case) has friction modifier and does wear out. Thank you for showing such an informative video.
Everything turned out great, followed your directions, got an aftermarket drain plug pan from American Trucks. Finding Mercon LV was a pain, no one had any, had to order it (13 qts) from Advance Auto. But just like you said pump it in and truck pumped it out till it ran clear. Thanks again for your help and the awesome video, it cut all the guess work out.
One other suggestion. You mention on the beginning it’s optional to cap the unused end of the trans cooler line with a cap. I didn’t and during the process it dumped at least 1/2 quart on the floor. Otherwise your technique worked perfectly,Thanks
Wow Fantastic Video. This is the proper way to change ATF, Filter and Flush the Torque Converter. Most mechanics only take out ze Pan and filter and put in new filter and screw pan back and put in ATF till it overflows. Then start the car, take it for a drive then add more ATF in the pan. They don't flush out the Torque Converter saying flushing out Torque Converter will damage or destroy the transmission. When take out the pan and filter only 4 Litres of ATF come out Max and there is aboot 8-9 litres of Burned ATF in torque converter which most garages refuse to do. Have you used Castrol. Valvoline or Mobile 1 ATF instead of Motorcraft ATF ? I live in Brisbane ( Australia ) and i drive Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo which has 6 Speed ZF Automatic transmission. I had ATF and filter service done 2wice by 2 different garages and both of them said only Pan, filter and new ATF will be changed and they not flushing out Torque converter cause it may damage the transmission.
Thanks for another great video/tutorial sir. Q? So the guy with the clean fresh bucket of Mercon was adding it to the oil pan filler/checker port? Thanks again.
That's correct. The initial section point in the circuit is in the pan at the filter. You just want to make sure it has fluid to suck and push through the circuit as it's being discharged.
Thank you Master Jacks ... this video was very helpful. Just flushed the fluid out of the trans after a coolant line broke. Thank you for taking the time to share.
It just seems that if the fill port is open while the vehicle is running (my guess is its not a pressurized system) the fluid would blow out. So that I'm reading your reply correct. 1. Disconnect supply from transmission cooler and let drain into a container 2. Ensure transmission is filled with correct amount of fluid 3. Insert fill hose into transmission fill port 4. Start vehicle 5. While old fluid is being pumped out into catch container begin pumping new fluid into transmission fill port. 6. When fluid runs clean turn off vehicle and recheck transmission fluid level. How am I doing so far? I know to have someone else to start, run and shift vehicle while I monitor fluids being expelled and maintain pump operations commensurate with fluid output ( amount of fluid going in should match fluid coming out).
It looks like you have the steps right. No fluid will blow out the dipstick hole. The pan is the initial pick-up point for the fluid. The pump draws it in through the filter in the pan. It's not pressurized or splashing around. Also, you don't have to have perfect synchronization pumping-in while it's getting pumped out. If the one going into the bucket starts gurgling (not spitting out fluid), you can pump a little faster or turn off the engine and fill the pan a little more. You're just trying to cycle the old fluid out while you add new stuff. When you're happy, turn it off, reconnect your lines, then start the vehicle and set the level in the pan. I generally like to finish the flush with the pan level being a little low (maybe even starting to gurgle). It's easier to add fluid to set the level than to remove it. Once you get started, I think you'll answer a lot of your own questions and it will go well. Best of luck, thanks for watching!
I drive a 2010 F150 FX4. Any thoughts/experience using Valvoline Maxlife vs Mercon LV? So far using Mercon LV it doesn't seem to be synthetic based nor wear well. My experience with Valvoline 5W-30 full syn motor oil has been outstanding. According to the Ford site: "Motorcraft® MERCON® LV is manufactured with high-viscosity index, premium-quality, hydroprocessed base oils and specially designed performance additives, which provide excellent shifting characteristics at high and low ambient temperatures and guards against transmission shudder. This fluid has excellent thermal, oxidation and shear stability and good low temperature fluidity. It provides wear protection and inhibits the formation of gum, sludge, lacquer and foam. It also prevents against rust and corrosion. It is dyed red for ease of leak detection".
Thx for the video, I'm "gearing up" to do this on my 2015, but researching a bit.. FYI, I found this on Lethal Performance website, I have NOT validated what they claim as external bypass unit controlling the flow. "The 6R80 Transmission has an internal Thermal Bypass that operates much like the thermostat in your cooling system Upon start up, the bypass is closed limiting fluid flow through the on board auxiliary transmission fluid coolers to help get the transmission up to temperature. Once it reaches its optimal temp, the valve opens allowing fluid to enter the transmission after passing through the designated cooler. This valve is found on all 2011-14 F150 and Mustang 6R80 transmissions. All 2015-17 Mustang Transmissions also have it, but 15-17 F150 transmissions do not. The 15-17 F150 has an external bypass cooler unit controlling the flow." But I am considering dropping the pan and bypassing the valve with a Transgo 6R80-CLR-BYPASS kit, flushing the tranny, then reinstalling the factory bypass to ensure an almost complete fluid swap. Constructive comments are welcome. Thx to the OP for the original Video! Nice Job!
Yeah, this one has a bypass too. Thermostatic valves have a range through which they are partially open. Just warm the vehicle up a bit before you start the flush. As seen in this video, I had good flow through the cooler which means the valve was at least partially open. Doesn't have to be too hot either, maybe around 70F+. Thanks for watching, hope the service goes well!
So I'm not a huge gear head but I picked up a used F150 2015 with 93k miles I can't find any history of the fluid being changed and I was wondering if I should either flush it or drop the pan and put new fluid into it. Any suggestions would be appreciated 😅
@@alexmigacz1848Every automatic I have serviced had a magnetic in the bottom of pan to pick up small metallic particles. With 93k the magnet will be dirty. Also, bottom of pan typically has a light film that should be cleaned. I think changing the filter is a toss up. They don't seem to get dirty or clogged. But if cheap and easy, go for it. Good idea to replace pan gasket, although I have reused rubber ones with no leaks. There may be a temperature spec (range) for warming up old fluid. I have an IR Fluke meter that measures temp. Make certain to get correct fluid, especially if after market - check specifications.
The left is the correct(return line) one because the fluid came from the cooler side. With the quick connects, it is a pita to flush the cooler too, because the hose will not stay in place.
I've seen warnings that pulling the tranny dipstick on a cold engine will result in ATF flowing out the tranny pan through dipstick hole. True? I was going to do fluid & filter by pumping out pan before dropping it. Was thinking I had to run engine through the gears to empty the pan a bit first, before pumping it out, to avoid a mess in my driveway. Picky neighbors. Would love to do most of the job with cold CAT and tranny pan.
Use 2 buckets, one for the old fluid and one for the new, take the cut discharge line and put one end of the tube into one bucket for it to dump the old fluid, and the other end of the cut hose into the second bucket filled with clean fluid that the system will suck in at the same time it dumps out the old.
Does the transmission have to be at operating temperature to do the flush? I read somewhere that the 6r80 has an internal thermostat that prevents the flow of the transmission fluid to the cooler until it reaches a certain temperature.
Thanks for posting that. I'm curious if you think that it would have been possible to put another line on the other hose and used it as a supply for fresh fluid? Place the second hose into the fresh fluid bucket.
@@MasterJacks super awesome video. I’m just going through the comments and my question to your answer on this one is about hooking the fill line from the bucket to the return. Could you use this method if there were no air pockets meaning if you had pumped the fluid up into the return line. I don’t have any plans on going this route, but just a hypothetical question. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and your time and having it be a quick and prompt video that gets to the point without the extra fluff talk. Also, I understand this post is a year ago, so it may not receive a response soon or ever but it would be nice.
I was told never to change transmission fluid on these trucks yet I have that common flutter , which I thought a flush might help. I took it to a place that changes oil and they wouldn't do it. Any thoughts?
Ooof no you definitely need to change the fluid. The filter is a "lifetime" filter. My Local dealer says transmission fluid every 50,000 filter at 150,000. Makes sense to me.
My 2015 had a shudder. I did this exact flush myself at home in my shop 5 years ago and 40,000 miles later it has never shuddered since. I used the valvoline maxlife I used 20 quarts. Truck was at about 100,000 miles and the fluid was dark red color. After the flush bright red.
@@terrorofdemons1168 How do you like the Valvoline Maxlife vs Mercon LV I'm considering the switch. I switched to Valvoline full syn ext mileage 5w-30 a few years ago and it has performed way better than Mobil 1, turning amber but staying clear with virtually nothing on the drain plug magnet.
So I dont have any history on my trans fluid being changed and I bought a used F150 2015 with 94k miles, should I change the fluid or flush it or leave it alone? It runs great but I am hitting that 100k point and wondering if its worth doing
If the transmission isn't having any issues, I would put new fluid in it (exchange/flush). If the transmission has been grossly neglected or abused and is already slipping, new fluid can make existing problems seem worse. However, if the transmission is healthy, new fluid will keep it that way. Good question, and thanks for watching!
@MasterJacks my 2017 f-150 had fluid exchange done at 46k from previous owner and it's 111,450 I'm thinking about getting fluid exchange again, got the front and rear differential fluid done last week since that was never done on it
As a fellow Canadian I feel for you. lol The Canadian price for Mercon LV fluid is also ridiculous. The best price I found in Canada was $244.42 for a case of 12 quarts and the additional single quart was $24.95 and $60.91 for the filter. Total cost, including taxes, was $373.22 just to change the red slippery stuff myself. In 2008, I had a transmission shop change the fluid on my 1999 van and the total bill was $78.00
What a pain in the ass system they've come up with. I get it, but damn it man. I had the shutter in mine and I just pumped out the pan which was about a gallon then replaced with a gallon. Ran for a few weeks then did it again. Good video all the same.
Great video, sir! I skimmed the comments but didn't find anything. How about having an external pump that has almost the same flow rate as the trans.? That way, you don't have to shut the truck off so much? Can you approximate the rate? 2 gal. Per min.? I was thinking of finding a pump that can match the rate and perform the flush? What are your thoughts?
Thanks for the video. I have one question. Do I have to pump the clean fluid at the same time as old fluid pumps out, or can i refill it after the old fluid pumps out? Would that hurt the transmission?
Thanks for the question. You need to pump new fluid in as the old fluid is being pumped out. The internal clutches are "wet clutches" and will be damaged if ran dry.
That's a great observation! Someone else mentioned this before I began the service. However, when I looked up the Ford procedure, it made no mention of the valve in their exchange procedure. In essence they simply say to connect the exchanger to the cooler return line and flush it. They don't say anything about being at a certain temp. You'll also notice in the video, that when I got the hose right, fluid was flowing from the metal cooler line into the bucket (unlike my first attempt that sprayed fluid all over the cooler). The metal lines are both cooler lines. If I wasn't flushing the cooler, the fluid would be flowing from one of the rubber lines (both transmission lines). I think if there is a thermostatic valve in the cooler, it must not fully close. Long story short, I feel good about having flushed the cooler as well! Thanks for the question!
@@MasterJacks thank you for getting back to me with this priceless info I appreciate it man.. I was watching a Ford tech guy who said that and he kept warning about the valve .. anyways.. please let me know how is the transmission since you flushed it and how does it shift and when do you suggest flushing the trans.. again I thank you
@@mohsenalabbas7866 Ford says to flush the transmission at a 150,000 miles, but you really should do it on condition. New fluid is a nice pink, while spent fluid will begin to Brown and smell burnt. The way I drive a pickup, that looks like about every 50- 60k for a happy transmission.
@@mohsenalabbas7866 if you look in your owner's manual it will tell you when to service your transmission/differential, and im pretty sure transmission should be 40-60k miles depending on what you do with your truck..like pulling a trailer etc..
@@planetofthederps4490 i have in my hand now... it says 150,000 miles and that is possible but not good at all... after 150k miles you will be needing a new transmission
Does this method ensure you flush the whole transmission? I have seen in other videos that's the thermal bypass valve doesn't activate until a certain temperature
Looks like you have eco boost your trans lines look little different from my 5.0 where your trans lines come across the frame there mine has aluminum box thing that lines are bolted to so I guess for my situation I just unbolt I'm just trying to figure out which line coming out of the side of trans is return line I assume the upper one would be return? I think it's called an auxiliary cooler ?
Just trying to figure the supply and return line sequence. Disconnect the supply to the transmission filter and let it drain into a container. And then connect a hose from the pump bucket to the line the supply was connected to and pump fresh fluid thru the cooler back onto the transmission.....right?
No, you don't connect the bucket pump to the cooler line. You fill the transmission with the bucket pump through the dipstick hole. The disconnected line from the cooler will be discharging fluid into the waist bucket because the engine is running and the transmission pump is pumping. With the line disconnected, the transmission is pumping fluid into the bucket while you pump it into the pan. The other side of the disconnected cooler line that isn't discharging, remains disconnected. Just leave it be until you're ready to reassemble.
I have a 2016 f150 5.0 (6r80). but mine has a external trans cooler in between the engine and the radiator. So I'll have to do mine a little differently.
Enjoyed the video, very instructive. In your comments I did not see (or I missed) whether you shifted through the gears while flushing. In another video somewhere, it was shown that in order to flush the torque converter, it was necessary to shift gears while doing the flush. Is that correct for the 6R80 transmission?
To get the fluid to cycle through the various clutch circuits, you do want to put your foot on the brake and run it about 5-10 seconds in Drive, Reverse, and Neutral. You'll get the fluid from the converter and cooler regardless, but it's good to run it through the gears. Thanks for the question and watching.
MasterJack-when you start the truck and the fluid starts evacuating from the cooler line is that fluid coming "just" from the pan or is that fluid also being drawn out of the torque converter? In other words...does this method also flush the fluid out of the torque converter?
Thanks for the question. By plugging into the cooler return line, you exchange the whole circuit. The fluid begins at the pickup tube (filter) in the pan, cycles through the transmission and converter, then to the cooler, and finally back to the pan.
Are you checking your fluid with the vehicle off? I have the procedure from work and it says running at operating temp with the transmission in PARK. I always thought it was supposed to be running in neutral.
Yes, you need to check it while it's running. Cycling though the gears will ensure the various circuits are filled, but I don't know if there's a significant difference checking it in park or neutral. You could do both and see if there's a difference.
@@MasterJacks I did and got it right in the hot mark. Was unable to get my trans cooler line apart so was only able to do a drop and swap unfortunately. Great video! Thanks
Just had mine flushed at the dealer..I gave them 10 quarts and they used all of it. Not sure if they put in more. Got home, parked the truck and turned off, checked the fluid level and it seems low. The fluid was at operating temp, but does running it while checking make a difference?
Did you remove/modify the cooler fluid thermostatic bypass valve above the valve body in the trans? If not, how did you keep the thermostatic valve open when purging the old fluid out the cooler line? Thanks in advance for your help.
I want to do a drain and fill. Is it possible to use a hand pump to siphon most of the ATF out via the dipstick filler port before I drop the pan? Will I need a skinny enough hose to reach the bottom of the pan?
You probably have already done this but for anyone else I recommend doing this but you will probably get 3-4 quarts out and the other few qts you can get out this way will be in the pan and filter itself.
Is that a 1/2 clear plastic drain hose? Didn't want to get to Lowes and stare at 20 different hose sizes and drive back and forth doing the trial and error method.
I'm researching to do this to my '14 mustang gt with 6r80 auto trans. Same pan drop, filter change, and flush procedure? Thanks in advance. So far your two vids on this are the best I've found for details and procedures. I'm at just over 91k miles, and its slipping between shifts. I bought the car new. This will be first trans service and now I wish I would have done this 60k miles ago
Yes, the procedure is the same. I'm not sure the cooler supply & return lines are positioned the same, so make sure are discharging the one from the cooler into your waste bucket, otherwise you'll flush everything except the cooler. When you disconnect the line and start the engine, make sure fluid is pumping out of a metal line. If it's coming out of the rubber hose from the trans, you have the wrong one. It's not a big deal, just reconnect and try the other one. As a side note, a full flush will sometimes exacerbate a slipping condition. The old fluid is often heavily impregnated with clutch material which increases friction, reducing slippage. When you restore the fluid to new, the full extent of the slipping condition is no longer masked and the underlying problem is revealed. You may find slippage worse post-flush.
@@MasterJacks then it is what I've feared. I'm 60k too late. I've drivin this car HARD every day since I bought it new. And I mean HARD! Damn. I'm due for a new trans then? Can I just have a reputable trans shop rebuild it? I have little faith in Remanufactured parts these days
It has to do with the condition of the transmission when the service is done. If you have a severely neglected transmission and it's become symptomatic (slipping, or shifting irregularities), putting all new fluid in can make the problem seem worse. As the clutches wear, the friction material becomes suspended in the fluid. This actually helps the worn clutches do their job. If you replace it with new fluid, the worn clutches won't be able to grab as well and the slipping will seem to become worse. If your transmission is healthy, replacing the fluid is extremely beneficial to the preservation of the clutches and other components.
You bring up a good point. However, the thermostatic valve is not completely open or closed except at temperature extremes. There is a broad range at which the valve is partially open. He is adding clean fluid to the transmission pan and getting clean fluid out of the cooler return line. Also, the amount in the bucket is far greater than the cooler capacity itself.
Every FORD technician has told me that the 6R80 and 6R90 transmissions were never designed to be flushed and should NEVER be flushed. Drain and Fill ONLY and replace the filter at every change. My 2012 was changed at the first 30K mark and gets changed every 60K thereafter.
@terrorofdemons1168 Thanks for this reply. My 2016 (130k miles) Developed the "shutter" (feels like I'm hitting rumble strips on light acceleration) and I'm heading to the dealership to have mine flushed next week. I've read on plenty of Ford forums that flushing gets rid of it in 90% of cases. ..something about the fluid is 'worn out' so to speak and is allowing the torque converter to 'slip'. Nice to hear real world experience.
@@Joe-fi2ir When I hit about 120k on my 2017, I started to notice this shutter and also noticed that it would happen in the 45-55mph range in top gear only when xmin oil was over 180F. It didn't happen until x-min warmed up. Curious if this addressed it for you.
Hello, and "thank you for all of your great and educational videos. I'm curious to know where you got your plastic transmission fluid measuring stick from, like the one you use in the 2016 Ford F150 transmission flushing video? I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question.
The dipstick comes with a new cap nut assembly. I know because the old cap nut broke off at the threads with minimum torque and I had to back the threaded body out by hand, looked like very weak pot metal. The new one seems better quality steel.
@@atxjax1 ya, that's what the flush is doing. Adding fluid to the pan while it's coming out the cooler. If you want to do 2 qts at a time, turning the engine off between intervals, that would work fine. Just make sure to set the final level when you're done.
Would be a heck of a lot easier to disconnect the cooler and run fluid through the two transmission lines instead of crawling under. Also, this method doesn’t complete to circuit. The other line will not be flushed.
The return line has no suction. The initial pickup for the fluid is at the filter in the pan. You would have to push it with a pump. That's what a flush machine does. The return line from the cooler is the final component in the circuit besides the final 3 ft of hose from the cooler to the transmission. The few ounces of fluid you missed there, likely drain out onto the floor when you disconnect the line. Your idea is not a bad one if you made a good seal from your bucket pump to the return line to push it in the pan. You'd still have to crawl under to check and adjust the fluid as needed when you were done.
@@MasterJacks This is actually wrong! Unless you get the trans to very high temp 220F+ the bypass valve does not open which means your only flushing what's in the cooler and not the TC. Fast forward to 5:21 in this video for details.ua-cam.com/video/9ME93NO9fGE/v-deo.html
@@scrooksful I appreciate the conversation. Knowing the path of fluid flow helps clear up confusion on the topic. Flush machines are connected in series with the fluid circuit, not parallel to the cooler. The intial pickup for the fluid is at the filter inside the tranny pan. From there it goes to the pump, pressure relief valve, torque converter, then the cooler, then to the geartrain before draining back into the pan. By adding fluid directly to the pan, it's going to the torque converter before going to the cooler. Because fluid is discharging from the cooler return line, we can be assured the valve is at least partially open. Transmission thermostatic valves have a broad temperature range varying the amount of fluid sent to the cooler. It's not a 1-degree on/off thing. From my understanding they are always at least partially open, even if only a 95/5% split.
13 qts is system capacity. The only way to get all that fluid out is to flush it, which will take considerably more than 13 qts. If you are just doing the filter, you need to add 4.5 qts then check the fluid with the vehicle running. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2013 f150 fx4 Eco-boost its not ready mileage or speed then turn it off then it works fine other Thing when I go to hit the gas on a red light transmission doesn’t shift it revs up but doesn’t shift if i change fluid will it fix it or is it the lead frame ??
@@burrofilemon1823 Could have a bad speed sensor. Probably need to have that one diagnosed. Could be causing you transmission problems too. The delayed shift from a stop could also be low fluid level.
If you are just dropping the pan and replacing the filter expect to have 6 qts come out and add roughly 7.5 qts back in but you will need to turn the truck on and off maybe twice to check and on the third time fill with the truck running otherwise you won’t be able to get enough in.
@@dad3562 That is terrible advice. Replenishing some fresh fluid is infinitely better than doing nothing. If you put a new filter in and fresh fluid, your transmission will last a long time. Just because the fluid is dark doesn't mean it's not doing it's job properly.
@@georgeto852002 has to be in the middle (hash mark) or in a mark ( under b) always make sure to turn the vehicle on before check the fluid if its level. The level mark hast to be with engine on... I used 8 gallon bc when I replaced the fluid transmission I didnt turn the vehicle engine so there was fluid coming out which it's fine
@@georgeto852002 well I have f150 3.5 ecooboster 2013 .... i was scare at the begginis as well but trust if you need more so add more and pretty sure there is not leaks in the pan.. just to build your confidence did you measure the amount fluid after you drop the pan..
Gastas mucho aceite, sale más barato quitar la tapa y solo aplicar silicón al empaque... Claro... Es un poco más laborioso pero te ahorras casi 5 litros de aceite de la transmisión 👌🏼
Lol, I did this at 40k just because I bought my 2015 brand new and I wanted to get rid of all the break-in... I had it done at the Ford dealer though because I chickened out 😁
Def do NOT have to do like this and strongly recommend not to as you risk sucking air if there is insufficient flow into the pan..... At the Ford dealer, we use a machine that removes a couple quarts, then adds fresh fluid back to the full mark and then waits for it to cycle around and then removes some and adds some and does this for about 8-12 quarts... the other way to do this and the simpler method and what most techs end up doing is just sucking out the old fluid, put in the same amount you removed and then run it through the gears on a lift or at home you do it on jack stands. shut off and repeat for said amount of fluid till its clean... Easy as hell.... Loved doing fluid changes as i made quick time at em and therefore $$$... company makes a dollar i make a dime however.... DONT BE SCARED
@@Gatorsrok The suck and replace method while fluid is at operating temp or cold? Thought there was a valve that will not allow fluid flow unless it reaches operating temps
In the good old days Ford provided a torque converter drain plug and a real dip stick ( under the hood) which I always used. I want one MFing engineer explain to me why they make them like they do today.
I understand that these transmissions operate under vacuum, so they can't have an open dip stick tube to suck air. There are aftermarket dip stick assemblies that can be installed. The dip stick head locks and seals at the top of the dip stick tube to maintain the vacuum in the transmission. About $250 to $300 in U.S. for the assembly, plus installation.
This can and will destroy your transmission. Never do a flush. Jst drain, change filter and fill up. Old school way is the best every 20k to 30k miles.😁👍👍👍
wrong. stop spreading misinformation. flushing is acceptable as long as its done correctly. How i flush it is bring up transmission fluid to temperature according to the service manual, then train and fill. then repeat 2 more times.then you are complete. also the "dipstick" has hashmarks for A and B position instead of low and high or cold and hot. This is Fords answer to allowing the same dipstick to be used in various transmissions.
Just did this procedure, one thing I did was buy 2 x 5 gallon buckets with markings on the side of them. Markings had increments of 2l. I filled the bucket with the pump to the 12l mark and the other bucket had the drain line in it. This way you know if the drain line bucket has 2l of old fluid I should be at 10l on the fill bucket and so on. Nice way to keep track if you're bad at eye balling like me.
Much easier to disconnect the transmission cooling lines going into to transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I dropped the pan and changed the filter then refilled the transmission with new fluid. Next, disconnect the cooling line at the cooler and then start it with it in neutral. The transmission is sucked up clean new fluid from the pan and pushing the old fluid out. Took one gallon before nice shiny red fluid started coming out. Of course you need to be adding fluid as you do this. I was alone so I let it pump out two quarts then shut it off-refilled the transmission-and did it again. This was on my 2010 F150 Fx2 with a 6R80. Entire process took 3 gallons of ATF.
I do this on three of my 4 Fords (my 2002 Ranger has a manual trans) and haven't had a single transmission issue on any of my cars. They're 2004, 2004 and 2006 cars and I live in Florida where the heat is brutal. This is cheap insurance and healthy maintenance. Ford transmission fluid (Mercon V in my case) has friction modifier and does wear out. Thank you for showing such an informative video.
Check out the Castrol Universal Fluid, Its only been on the market for two years, I been using it in my F-150 and my Accord with great success
I did use Valvoline LV (full synthetic) fluid to flush out transmission then used my (13 qts) Mercon LV to fill the transmission.
Everything turned out great, followed your directions, got an aftermarket drain plug pan from American Trucks. Finding Mercon LV was a pain, no one had any, had to order it (13 qts) from Advance Auto. But just like you said pump it in and truck pumped it out till it ran clear. Thanks again for your help and the awesome video, it cut all the guess work out.
Glad to hear it!
Hi Larry! So the 13 quarts was enough then? He was talking like 16 plus quarts. Thanks.
One other suggestion. You mention on the beginning it’s optional to cap the unused end of the trans cooler line with a cap. I didn’t and during the process it dumped at least 1/2 quart on the floor. Otherwise your technique worked perfectly,Thanks
Wow Fantastic Video. This is the proper way to change ATF, Filter and Flush the Torque Converter. Most mechanics only take out ze Pan and filter and put in new filter and screw pan back and put in ATF till it overflows. Then start the car, take it for a drive then add more ATF in the pan. They don't flush out the Torque Converter saying flushing out Torque Converter will damage or destroy the transmission. When take out the pan and filter only 4 Litres of ATF come out Max and there is aboot 8-9 litres of Burned ATF in torque converter which most garages refuse to do. Have you used Castrol. Valvoline or Mobile 1 ATF instead of Motorcraft ATF ? I live in Brisbane ( Australia ) and i drive Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo which has 6 Speed ZF Automatic transmission. I had ATF and filter service done 2wice by 2 different garages and both of them said only Pan, filter and new ATF will be changed and they not flushing out Torque converter cause it may damage the transmission.
Does the torque converter have to be drained too or how is that done? THUMBS UP!!! Greatrojb, great cideo. Thamk you!!!
Thank you for making this video. I really appreciate the information and direct approach. I just ordered from amazon using your store link.
I'm going to do this, near 5 gallons getting out compared to 7 or 8 quarts for just droping pan and filter.
Thanks for another great video/tutorial sir. Q? So the guy with the clean fresh bucket of Mercon was adding it to the oil pan filler/checker port? Thanks again.
That's correct. The initial section point in the circuit is in the pan at the filter. You just want to make sure it has fluid to suck and push through the circuit as it's being discharged.
Thank you Master Jacks ... this video was very helpful. Just flushed the fluid out of the trans after a coolant line broke. Thank you for taking the time to share.
It just seems that if the fill port is open while the vehicle is running (my guess is its not a pressurized system) the fluid would blow out. So that I'm reading your reply correct.
1. Disconnect supply from transmission cooler and let drain into a container
2. Ensure transmission is filled with correct amount of fluid
3. Insert fill hose into transmission fill port
4. Start vehicle
5. While old fluid is being pumped out into catch container begin pumping new fluid into transmission fill port.
6. When fluid runs clean turn off vehicle and recheck transmission fluid level.
How am I doing so far? I know to have someone else to start, run and shift vehicle while I monitor fluids being expelled and maintain pump operations commensurate with fluid output ( amount of fluid going in should match fluid coming out).
It looks like you have the steps right. No fluid will blow out the dipstick hole. The pan is the initial pick-up point for the fluid. The pump draws it in through the filter in the pan. It's not pressurized or splashing around. Also, you don't have to have perfect synchronization pumping-in while it's getting pumped out. If the one going into the bucket starts gurgling (not spitting out fluid), you can pump a little faster or turn off the engine and fill the pan a little more. You're just trying to cycle the old fluid out while you add new stuff. When you're happy, turn it off, reconnect your lines, then start the vehicle and set the level in the pan. I generally like to finish the flush with the pan level being a little low (maybe even starting to gurgle). It's easier to add fluid to set the level than to remove it. Once you get started, I think you'll answer a lot of your own questions and it will go well. Best of luck, thanks for watching!
Is that a 1/2 clear plastic drain hose?
I can't remember for sure, I believe it was 5/8"
I drive a 2010 F150 FX4. Any thoughts/experience using Valvoline Maxlife vs Mercon LV? So far using Mercon LV it doesn't seem to be synthetic based nor wear well. My experience with Valvoline 5W-30 full syn motor oil has been outstanding.
According to the Ford site: "Motorcraft® MERCON® LV is manufactured with high-viscosity index, premium-quality, hydroprocessed base oils and specially designed performance additives, which provide excellent shifting characteristics at high and low ambient temperatures and guards against transmission shudder. This fluid has excellent thermal, oxidation and shear stability and good low temperature fluidity. It provides wear protection and inhibits the formation of gum, sludge, lacquer and foam. It also prevents against rust and corrosion. It is dyed red for ease of leak detection".
I wouldn't hesitate to use MaxLife. I've used it in just about every transmission without any problems.
Thx for the video, I'm "gearing up" to do this on my 2015, but researching a bit.. FYI, I found this on Lethal Performance website, I have NOT validated what they claim as external bypass unit controlling the flow. "The 6R80 Transmission has an internal Thermal Bypass that operates much like the thermostat in your cooling system Upon start up, the bypass is closed limiting fluid flow through the on board auxiliary transmission fluid coolers to help get the transmission up to temperature. Once it reaches its optimal temp, the valve opens allowing fluid to enter the transmission after passing through the designated cooler. This valve is found on all 2011-14 F150 and Mustang 6R80 transmissions. All 2015-17 Mustang Transmissions also have it, but 15-17 F150 transmissions do not. The 15-17 F150 has an external bypass cooler unit controlling the flow." But I am considering dropping the pan and bypassing the valve with a Transgo 6R80-CLR-BYPASS kit, flushing the tranny, then reinstalling the factory bypass to ensure an almost complete fluid swap. Constructive comments are welcome. Thx to the OP for the original Video! Nice Job!
Yeah, this one has a bypass too. Thermostatic valves have a range through which they are partially open. Just warm the vehicle up a bit before you start the flush. As seen in this video, I had good flow through the cooler which means the valve was at least partially open. Doesn't have to be too hot either, maybe around 70F+. Thanks for watching, hope the service goes well!
I did mine on a hot day and had no problem with flow.
So I'm not a huge gear head but I picked up a used F150 2015 with 93k miles I can't find any history of the fluid being changed and I was wondering if I should either flush it or drop the pan and put new fluid into it. Any suggestions would be appreciated 😅
@@alexmigacz1848Every automatic I have serviced had a magnetic in the bottom of pan to pick up small metallic particles. With 93k the magnet will be dirty. Also, bottom of pan typically has a light film that should be cleaned. I think changing the filter is a toss up. They don't seem to get dirty or clogged. But if cheap and easy, go for it. Good idea to replace pan gasket, although I have reused rubber ones with no leaks. There may be a temperature spec (range) for warming up old fluid. I have an IR Fluke meter that measures temp. Make certain to get correct fluid, especially if after market - check specifications.
The left is the correct(return line) one because the fluid came from the cooler side. With the quick connects, it is a pita to flush the cooler too, because the hose will not stay in place.
No it didn’t. The metal line he put hose on is coming down from cooler
I'm glad I did mine at 87k miles, it was almost black. Now my truck shifts so smooth!
Snug and not leaking sounds about right lol
I've seen warnings that pulling the tranny dipstick on a cold engine will result in ATF flowing out the tranny pan through dipstick hole. True? I was going to do fluid & filter by pumping out pan before dropping it. Was thinking I had to run engine through the gears to empty the pan a bit first, before pumping it out, to avoid a mess in my driveway. Picky neighbors. Would love to do most of the job with cold CAT and tranny pan.
Just picked up a 2016 2.7 eco f150 (6r80), these videos are going to be a huge help, doing trans fluid change later today
Ford recommends 150k miles so that you are out of warranty AND they can claim it was "low maintenance". Do it sooner
Any success in doing this when you get torque converter shudder?
So which is the correct return line to take off is it on the drivers side?
awesome dude... quick, straight to the point... great video shots and info..
Thank you very helpful.
Where did you get the refill bucket pump?
Thank you. Amazon has several options for 5-gal bucket pumps
Use 2 buckets, one for the old fluid and one for the new, take the cut discharge line and put one end of the tube into one bucket for it to dump the old fluid, and the other end of the cut hose into the second bucket filled with clean fluid that the system will suck in at the same time it dumps out the old.
Can you check the dipstick without the vehicle running? I know there is a hot and cold level . Just curious if it has to be running ?
Yes, the hot and cold ranges are inscribed to give a proper indication of fluid level with the engine running.
Does the transmission have to be at operating temperature to do the flush? I read somewhere that the 6r80 has an internal thermostat that prevents the flow of the transmission fluid to the cooler until it reaches a certain temperature.
It's a variable valve. You'll get good circulation at a pretty normal temperature of 70 to 80°F.
Thanks for posting that. I'm curious if you think that it would have been possible to put another line on the other hose and used it as a supply for fresh fluid? Place the second hose into the fresh fluid bucket.
You'd have to push it with some kind of pump. The other line doesn't have any suction. The initial pickup for the fluid is at the filter in the pan.
@@MasterJacks super awesome video. I’m just going through the comments and my question to your answer on this one is about hooking the fill line from the bucket to the return. Could you use this method if there were no air pockets meaning if you had pumped the fluid up into the return line.
I don’t have any plans on going this route, but just a hypothetical question.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and your time and having it be a quick and prompt video that gets to the point without the extra fluff talk.
Also, I understand this post is a year ago, so it may not receive a response soon or ever but it would be nice.
I was told never to change transmission fluid on these trucks yet I have that common flutter , which I thought a flush might help. I took it to a place that changes oil and they wouldn't do it. Any thoughts?
Ooof no you definitely need to change the fluid. The filter is a "lifetime" filter. My Local dealer says transmission fluid every 50,000 filter at 150,000. Makes sense to me.
My 2015 had a shudder. I did this exact flush myself at home in my shop 5 years ago and 40,000 miles later it has never shuddered since. I used the valvoline maxlife I used 20 quarts. Truck was at about 100,000 miles and the fluid was dark red color. After the flush bright red.
@@terrorofdemons1168 How do you like the Valvoline Maxlife vs Mercon LV I'm considering the switch. I switched to Valvoline full syn ext mileage 5w-30 a few years ago and it has performed way better than Mobil 1, turning amber but staying clear with virtually nothing on the drain plug magnet.
@@angrysheepdog9744 so far it’s been great. Im about to flush again soon.
@@angrysheepdog9744I have used both Maxlife and LV and not noticed any difference in performance.
Thank you so much for your video
My van had been run 130000 mile I change my transmission fluid regularly
Do you know how long my transmission last ?
yes
So I dont have any history on my trans fluid being changed and I bought a used F150 2015 with 94k miles, should I change the fluid or flush it or leave it alone? It runs great but I am hitting that 100k point and wondering if its worth doing
If the transmission isn't having any issues, I would put new fluid in it (exchange/flush). If the transmission has been grossly neglected or abused and is already slipping, new fluid can make existing problems seem worse. However, if the transmission is healthy, new fluid will keep it that way. Good question, and thanks for watching!
@MasterJacks my 2017 f-150 had fluid exchange done at 46k from previous owner and it's 111,450 I'm thinking about getting fluid exchange again, got the front and rear differential fluid done last week since that was never done on it
Good video. Getting those lines off in the Canadian crust belt is impossible!😂
As a fellow Canadian I feel for you. lol The Canadian price for Mercon LV fluid is also ridiculous. The best price I found in Canada was $244.42 for a case of 12 quarts and the additional single quart was $24.95 and $60.91 for the filter. Total cost, including taxes, was $373.22 just to change the red slippery stuff myself.
In 2008, I had a transmission shop change the fluid on my 1999 van and the total bill was $78.00
What a pain in the ass system they've come up with. I get it, but damn it man. I had the shutter in mine and I just pumped out the pan which was about a gallon then replaced with a gallon. Ran for a few weeks then did it again. Good video all the same.
So is this basically the same as flushing like he did, just not having to connect to the line and all?
@@cooksjc8 not really but it's worked fine since.
Great video, sir! I skimmed the comments but didn't find anything. How about having an external pump that has almost the same flow rate as the trans.? That way, you don't have to shut the truck off so much? Can you approximate the rate? 2 gal. Per min.? I was thinking of finding a pump that can match the rate and perform the flush? What are your thoughts?
Thanks for the video. I have one question. Do I have to pump the clean fluid at the same time as old fluid pumps out, or can i refill it after the old fluid pumps out? Would that hurt the transmission?
Thanks for the question. You need to pump new fluid in as the old fluid is being pumped out. The internal clutches are "wet clutches" and will be damaged if ran dry.
@@MasterJacks Thank you.
Will the transmission suck in new fluid from the fresh oil bucket? Or do you have to pump it manually up to the transmission? Thank you!
You'll need to pump it into the pan manually. The suction source is through the filter in the pan.
@@MasterJacks thank you!
Doesn't those trans have a temp valve inside them .. are you sure you didn't just flush the trans oil pan + trans cooler lines???
That's a great observation! Someone else mentioned this before I began the service. However, when I looked up the Ford procedure, it made no mention of the valve in their exchange procedure. In essence they simply say to connect the exchanger to the cooler return line and flush it. They don't say anything about being at a certain temp. You'll also notice in the video, that when I got the hose right, fluid was flowing from the metal cooler line into the bucket (unlike my first attempt that sprayed fluid all over the cooler). The metal lines are both cooler lines. If I wasn't flushing the cooler, the fluid would be flowing from one of the rubber lines (both transmission lines). I think if there is a thermostatic valve in the cooler, it must not fully close. Long story short, I feel good about having flushed the cooler as well! Thanks for the question!
@@MasterJacks thank you for getting back to me with this priceless info I appreciate it man.. I was watching a Ford tech guy who said that and he kept warning about the valve .. anyways.. please let me know how is the transmission since you flushed it and how does it shift and when do you suggest flushing the trans.. again I thank you
@@mohsenalabbas7866 Ford says to flush the transmission at a 150,000 miles, but you really should do it on condition. New fluid is a nice pink, while spent fluid will begin to Brown and smell burnt. The way I drive a pickup, that looks like about every 50- 60k for a happy transmission.
@@mohsenalabbas7866 if you look in your owner's manual it will tell you when to service your transmission/differential, and im pretty sure transmission should be 40-60k miles depending on what you do with your truck..like pulling a trailer etc..
@@planetofthederps4490 i have in my hand now... it says 150,000 miles and that is possible but not good at all... after 150k miles you will be needing a new transmission
I love it! Thanks a bunch, so it's the left hand line facing forward, I will be picking up the metal disconnect . Thank you
Does this method ensure you flush the whole transmission? I have seen in other videos that's the thermal bypass valve doesn't activate until a certain temperature
What is the proper temperature range to check the fluid at to get proper level?
Looks like you have eco boost your trans lines look little different from my 5.0 where your trans lines come across the frame there mine has aluminum box thing that lines are bolted to so I guess for my situation I just unbolt I'm just trying to figure out which line coming out of the side of trans is return line I assume the upper one would be return?
I think it's called an auxiliary cooler ?
Just trying to figure the supply and return line sequence. Disconnect the supply to the transmission filter and let it drain into a container. And then connect a hose from the pump bucket to the line the supply was connected to and pump fresh fluid thru the cooler back onto the transmission.....right?
No, you don't connect the bucket pump to the cooler line. You fill the transmission with the bucket pump through the dipstick hole. The disconnected line from the cooler will be discharging fluid into the waist bucket because the engine is running and the transmission pump is pumping. With the line disconnected, the transmission is pumping fluid into the bucket while you pump it into the pan. The other side of the disconnected cooler line that isn't discharging, remains disconnected. Just leave it be until you're ready to reassemble.
I have a 2016 f150 5.0 (6r80). but mine has a external trans cooler in between the engine and the radiator. So I'll have to do mine a little differently.
Enjoyed the video, very instructive. In your comments I did not see (or I missed) whether you shifted through the gears while flushing. In another video somewhere, it was shown that in order to flush the torque converter, it was necessary to shift gears while doing the flush. Is that correct for the 6R80 transmission?
To get the fluid to cycle through the various clutch circuits, you do want to put your foot on the brake and run it about 5-10 seconds in Drive, Reverse, and Neutral. You'll get the fluid from the converter and cooler regardless, but it's good to run it through the gears. Thanks for the question and watching.
You don’t change the filter? Why not? Thank you.
I did the filter in another video. ua-cam.com/video/j5PXg4BWllY/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.
MasterJack-when you start the truck and the fluid starts evacuating from the cooler line is that fluid coming "just" from the pan or is that fluid also being drawn out of the torque converter? In other words...does this method also flush the fluid out of the torque converter?
Thanks for the question. By plugging into the cooler return line, you exchange the whole circuit. The fluid begins at the pickup tube (filter) in the pan, cycles through the transmission and converter, then to the cooler, and finally back to the pan.
Is there a way to do this on a 2018 model ? I wanna flush the old fluid that’s in the converter as well
Are you checking your fluid with the vehicle off? I have the procedure from work and it says running at operating temp with the transmission in PARK. I always thought it was supposed to be running in neutral.
Yes, you need to check it while it's running. Cycling though the gears will ensure the various circuits are filled, but I don't know if there's a significant difference checking it in park or neutral. You could do both and see if there's a difference.
@@MasterJacks I did and got it right in the hot mark. Was unable to get my trans cooler line apart so was only able to do a drop and swap unfortunately. Great video! Thanks
Just had mine flushed at the dealer..I gave them 10 quarts and they used all of it. Not sure if they put in more. Got home, parked the truck and turned off, checked the fluid level and it seems low. The fluid was at operating temp, but does running it while checking make a difference?
Yes, it does need to be running when you check it to get an accurate reading
@@MasterJacks Checking the fluid level when it's hot isn't easy, since the fill hole is just inches from the super hot catalytic converter.
@@chrisgraham2904 yeah, it's not an ideal design. In the good ol' days, transmissions had dipsticks :-)
@@MasterJacks Yeah! "The good ol' days", when a transmission had 30 parts instead of 3,000. lol
Great video
Did you remove/modify the cooler fluid thermostatic bypass valve above the valve body in the trans? If not, how did you keep the thermostatic valve open when purging the old fluid out the cooler line? Thanks in advance for your help.
It's a variable thermostatic valve with a broad range of being at least partially open. You'll get circulation at normal temperatures of 70 to 80°F.
You need to do your phasers next? Diesel noise?
Thank you for your video
Hello how to read dipstick on Ford F-150? Could you take time to reply please
I think he covered this in the first video
@@brasha78 thank you
I want to do a drain and fill. Is it possible to use a hand pump to siphon most of the ATF out via the dipstick filler port before I drop the pan? Will I need a skinny enough hose to reach the bottom of the pan?
The fill hole is pretty good size. You shouldn't have much trouble sucking fluid out.
You probably have already done this but for anyone else I recommend doing this but you will probably get 3-4 quarts out and the other few qts you can get out this way will be in the pan and filter itself.
GREAT VIDEO VERY EXPLANATORY. CONGRATULATIONS
This video is great!!
Is that a 1/2 clear plastic drain hose? Didn't want to get to Lowes and stare at 20 different hose sizes and drive back and forth doing the trial and error method.
I believe 5/8", if it's slightly oversized it'll clamp down.
It was 1/2. I got it from Lowes and used a 5/8 hose clamp.
@@larryratliff2215 thanks for letting me know!
Thank you so much
Did it run fine after because I was planning on doing a transmission fluid flush and I currently have 88,000 miles on mine
This one had almost 100k and didn't have any transmission issues before or after the flush.
@@MasterJacks thanks
how often do you do this?
I'm researching to do this to my '14 mustang gt with 6r80 auto trans. Same pan drop, filter change, and flush procedure? Thanks in advance. So far your two vids on this are the best I've found for details and procedures. I'm at just over 91k miles, and its slipping between shifts. I bought the car new. This will be first trans service and now I wish I would have done this 60k miles ago
Yes, the procedure is the same. I'm not sure the cooler supply & return lines are positioned the same, so make sure are discharging the one from the cooler into your waste bucket, otherwise you'll flush everything except the cooler. When you disconnect the line and start the engine, make sure fluid is pumping out of a metal line. If it's coming out of the rubber hose from the trans, you have the wrong one. It's not a big deal, just reconnect and try the other one. As a side note, a full flush will sometimes exacerbate a slipping condition. The old fluid is often heavily impregnated with clutch material which increases friction, reducing slippage. When you restore the fluid to new, the full extent of the slipping condition is no longer masked and the underlying problem is revealed. You may find slippage worse post-flush.
@@MasterJacks then it is what I've feared. I'm 60k too late. I've drivin this car HARD every day since I bought it new. And I mean HARD! Damn. I'm due for a new trans then? Can I just have a reputable trans shop rebuild it? I have little faith in Remanufactured parts these days
@@65elcamino283 I'd go talk to a good tranny shop about rebuild options. Sometimes they have options for beafing things up a bit.
@@MasterJacks right?! I do want to supercharge legally. Maybe this is the time to do both the power adder and trans upgrade... 🤔
@Yar Nunya lol. Yeah, I'm in cali. The worst state for a car modder.
Nice video. Why do I see videos where they say NEVER do this? Or they say, reuse the oil transmission oil? Any thoughts?
It has to do with the condition of the transmission when the service is done. If you have a severely neglected transmission and it's become symptomatic (slipping, or shifting irregularities), putting all new fluid in can make the problem seem worse. As the clutches wear, the friction material becomes suspended in the fluid. This actually helps the worn clutches do their job. If you replace it with new fluid, the worn clutches won't be able to grab as well and the slipping will seem to become worse. If your transmission is healthy, replacing the fluid is extremely beneficial to the preservation of the clutches and other components.
@@MasterJacks Great answer! Thank you so much. 👍🙂
this does not flush the transmission only the cooler as there is a thermal valve that only opens when the fluid is hot
You bring up a good point. However, the thermostatic valve is not completely open or closed except at temperature extremes. There is a broad range at which the valve is partially open. He is adding clean fluid to the transmission pan and getting clean fluid out of the cooler return line. Also, the amount in the bucket is far greater than the cooler capacity itself.
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber here
What did it sound like?
Every FORD technician has told me that the 6R80 and 6R90 transmissions were never designed to be flushed and should NEVER be flushed. Drain and Fill ONLY and replace the filter at every change. My 2012 was changed at the first 30K mark and gets changed every 60K thereafter.
I disagree with the FORD techs. I flushed mine 5 years ago and it got rid of the shudder. I plan on doing it every 50,000 miles
@terrorofdemons1168 Thanks for this reply. My 2016 (130k miles) Developed the "shutter" (feels like I'm hitting rumble strips on light acceleration) and I'm heading to the dealership to have mine flushed next week. I've read on plenty of Ford forums that flushing gets rid of it in 90% of cases. ..something about the fluid is 'worn out' so to speak and is allowing the torque converter to 'slip'. Nice to hear real world experience.
@@Joe-fi2ir When I hit about 120k on my 2017, I started to notice this shutter and also noticed that it would happen in the 45-55mph range in top gear only when xmin oil was over 180F. It didn't happen until x-min warmed up. Curious if this addressed it for you.
@@fesnic32I'll let you know after tomorrow!
Nicely done, mine is next 70k it's time thanks
How come ford says you do filter gasket ans fluid change every 30k miles
Mine says 100k & I have 2016 F150 5.0
Thank You !
Still need to do an adaption on the transmission afterwards
Can I do this with the vehicle parked on level ground or do I have to physically level the vehicle?
I'm sure you'd be fine on level ground.
MasterJacks right on thanks man. I’m OCD and HAVE to do it by the book lol.
How much fluid did you use in total for the full flush?
I think I bought 4 gallons. Flushed it with 3 1/2, then used the last few quarts to set the level. Depends how dark and nasty the fluid is.
Hello, and "thank you for all of your great and educational videos. I'm curious to know where you got your plastic transmission fluid measuring stick from, like the one you use in the 2016 Ford F150 transmission flushing video? I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question.
Thanks for the question. It's actually built into the transmission fill plug on the 2016. If yours is a 2015 or later, it should have the same setup.
It may the same in some earlier models too, but I'm not sure
@@MasterJacks My 2011 F150 6R80 has the same dip stick in the filler plug.
my ‘09 has it too
The dipstick comes with a new cap nut assembly. I know because the old cap nut broke off at the threads with minimum torque and I had to back the threaded body out by hand, looked like very weak pot metal. The new one seems better quality steel.
Where are you located?
What size hose did you put on return line to drain it?
😬 I can't remember for certain but I believe the cooler line is 1/2" and I used a 5/8" I.D.
@@MasterJacks Thanks
Is there a recommended maintenance time frame for replacing the transmission fluid filter?
The owners manual says 150,000
@@steamdriver6964 30,000
@@michaeltrivette1728 not on my 2018
@@steamdriver6964 Just rechecked the manual and it says filter change at 30,000. Flush system at 150,000.
2015- 2017 models
could you drain the pan, then do your method with the return line to get out 2 quarts and pump 2 quarts in, over and over until its all clean?
I'm not sure I fully understand the process you're explaining, but yes you could do multiple "drain and fills" until the you get clean fluid out.
@@MasterJacks Can you drain 2 quarts out the front, then add two quarts to the pan? So on and so forth until its all clean?
@@atxjax1 ya, that's what the flush is doing. Adding fluid to the pan while it's coming out the cooler. If you want to do 2 qts at a time, turning the engine off between intervals, that would work fine. Just make sure to set the final level when you're done.
@@MasterJacks awesome thanks. I was thinking that the pan would over flow of doing it this way
What size is that drain hose connected to the return line ?
I want to say 1/2" I.D., but can't remember for certain. Sorry 😬
Would be a heck of a lot easier to disconnect the cooler and run fluid through the two transmission lines instead of crawling under. Also, this method doesn’t complete to circuit. The other line will not be flushed.
Still can’t believe they don’t have traditional dipsticks anymore. 🤦♂️
The return line has no suction. The initial pickup for the fluid is at the filter in the pan. You would have to push it with a pump. That's what a flush machine does. The return line from the cooler is the final component in the circuit besides the final 3 ft of hose from the cooler to the transmission. The few ounces of fluid you missed there, likely drain out onto the floor when you disconnect the line. Your idea is not a bad one if you made a good seal from your bucket pump to the return line to push it in the pan. You'd still have to crawl under to check and adjust the fluid as needed when you were done.
@@MasterJacks most of the time you need to pull the pan too, so I guess I’m just lazy. 😂
@@Sorianbell lol, I hear ya!
Does this flush technique empty the torque converter, or does that not apply?
Yes it does. With the vehicle running, the transmission pump is cycling fluid through the torque converter, cooler lines, and the
transmission itself.
@@MasterJacks Thanks so very much.
@@MasterJacks This is actually wrong! Unless you get the trans to very high temp 220F+ the bypass valve does not open which means your only flushing what's in the cooler and not the TC. Fast forward to 5:21 in this video for details.ua-cam.com/video/9ME93NO9fGE/v-deo.html
@@scrooksful I appreciate the conversation. Knowing the path of fluid flow helps clear up confusion on the topic. Flush machines are connected in series with the fluid circuit, not parallel to the cooler. The intial pickup for the fluid is at the filter inside the tranny pan. From there it goes to the pump, pressure relief valve, torque converter, then the cooler, then to the geartrain before draining back into the pan. By adding fluid directly to the pan, it's going to the torque converter before going to the cooler. Because fluid is discharging from the cooler return line, we can be assured the valve is at least partially open. Transmission thermostatic valves have a broad temperature range varying the amount of fluid sent to the cooler. It's not a 1-degree on/off thing. From my understanding they are always at least partially open, even if only a 95/5% split.
Do you not clean the pan?
He did that in another video with a pan clean and filter change
Will this help with torque converter shudder?
It cured my shudder and it’s been 5 years 40,000 miles ago.
How many qt dose it take in total to fill up with a new filter . Not 13.1 right?
13 qts is system capacity. The only way to get all that fluid out is to flush it, which will take considerably more than 13 qts. If you are just doing the filter, you need to add 4.5 qts then check the fluid with the vehicle running. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2013 f150 fx4 Eco-boost its not ready mileage or speed then turn it off then it works fine other Thing when I go to hit the gas on a red light transmission doesn’t shift it revs up but doesn’t shift if i change fluid will it fix it or is it the lead frame ??
@@burrofilemon1823 Could have a bad speed sensor. Probably need to have that one diagnosed. Could be causing you transmission problems too. The delayed shift from a stop could also be low fluid level.
But no check engine light
If you are just dropping the pan and replacing the filter expect to have 6 qts come out and add roughly 7.5 qts back in but you will need to turn the truck on and off maybe twice to check and on the third time fill with the truck running otherwise you won’t be able to get enough in.
Is this the same procedure an actual shop would do when you request a transmission fluid flush?
Yes, but they have a machine that connects in series with the disconnected transmission cooler line.
MasterJacks what’s your opinion on dropping the pan and only replacing those few quarts every 30k miles?
@@dad3562 you are replacing 1/4 of the fluid only,might as well don't do anything.
Mario Soto oh okay thank you very much.
@@dad3562 That is terrible advice. Replenishing some fresh fluid is infinitely better than doing nothing. If you put a new filter in and fresh fluid, your transmission will last a long time. Just because the fluid is dark doesn't mean it's not doing it's job properly.
So the level have to be under b position when the fuild is cold and after idle the vehicle must b position. Pls advise
Did you ever found out the answer?
@@georgeto852002 has to be in the middle (hash mark) or in a mark ( under b) always make sure to turn the vehicle on before check the fluid if its level. The level mark hast to be with engine on... I used 8 gallon bc when I replaced the fluid transmission I didnt turn the vehicle engine so there was fluid coming out which it's fine
I added 6.5 so far warmed the engine up didn't drive it yet and is still low
I have 2.7 2015 f150
@@jaandel1 didnt flush the line just dropped the pan and filter
@@georgeto852002 well I have f150 3.5 ecooboster 2013 .... i was scare at the begginis as well but trust if you need more so add more and pretty sure there is not leaks in the pan.. just to build your confidence did you measure the amount fluid after you drop the pan..
Nice
Like and subscribe you deserve it. Nice job man
Gastas mucho aceite, sale más barato quitar la tapa y solo aplicar silicón al empaque... Claro... Es un poco más laborioso pero te ahorras casi 5 litros de aceite de la transmisión 👌🏼
Lol, I did this at 40k just because I bought my 2015 brand new and I wanted to get rid of all the break-in... I had it done at the Ford dealer though because I chickened out 😁
California_Gaming how much was it ?
We did this a couple years ago for our '12 F150 and I believe it was around $200.00 from the dealer.
Def do NOT have to do like this and strongly recommend not to as you risk sucking air if there is insufficient flow into the pan..... At the Ford dealer, we use a machine that removes a couple quarts, then adds fresh fluid back to the full mark and then waits for it to cycle around and then removes some and adds some and does this for about 8-12 quarts... the other way to do this and the simpler method and what most techs end up doing is just sucking out the old fluid, put in the same amount you removed and then run it through the gears on a lift or at home you do it on jack stands. shut off and repeat for said amount of fluid till its clean... Easy as hell.... Loved doing fluid changes as i made quick time at em and therefore $$$... company makes a dollar i make a dime however.... DONT BE SCARED
@@Gatorsrok The suck and replace method while fluid is at operating temp or cold? Thought there was a valve that will not allow fluid flow unless it reaches operating temps
@@vansmatte Exactly. All he is doing is flushing fluid through the cooler. It is bypassing the transmission because it is not up to temperature.
In the good old days Ford provided a torque converter drain plug and a real dip stick ( under the hood) which I always used. I want one MFing engineer explain to me why they make them like they do today.
I understand that these transmissions operate under vacuum, so they can't have an open dip stick tube to suck air.
There are aftermarket dip stick assemblies that can be installed. The dip stick head locks and seals at the top of the dip stick tube to maintain the vacuum in the transmission. About $250 to $300 in U.S. for the assembly, plus installation.
You wasted your time by not changing the filter. Ford put one in there for a reason.
he did the filter.
He even told you he did in this video.
are you daft?
He replaced it! Listen to the beginning
Why not just have the suction line into the fresh fluid bucket and the discharge line into the dirty fluid bucket
It would be a great idea if it worked that way! There's no suction in the line. The initial suction point for the circuit is at the filter in the pan.
how much oil did you use?
This can and will destroy your transmission.
Never do a flush.
Jst drain, change filter and fill up.
Old school way is the best every 20k to 30k miles.😁👍👍👍
wrong. stop spreading misinformation. flushing is acceptable as long as its done correctly. How i flush it is bring up transmission fluid to temperature according to the service manual, then train and fill. then repeat 2 more times.then you are complete. also the "dipstick" has hashmarks for A and B position instead of low and high or cold and hot. This is Fords answer to allowing the same dipstick to be used in various transmissions.