My 2013 f150 ecoboost had this shutter. After watching this video I contacted my local transmission shop and told him my symptoms and I said I think I need a torque converter. Long story short they drove it and ended up just changing my transmission fluid and filter. I have around 160k and had never changed it. It immediately fixed the problem. The shop says that about 90% of the time this has fixed the shutter problem. Shout out to Powertrain Specialties in Gonzales Louisiana for being so honest and not selling me a huge job that was unnecessary.
Alot of this is the non serviceable yoke check videos I have.a raptor amd it's from creeping to 4 mph replace the tqc and yoke with a greasable one and your good
Lubegard shudder fix after a fluid and filter change has worked on every f150 6r80 owner I've spoken to. Including myself. Some report still no issues after 65k miles!
Just bought a 2016 F-150 with 3.5 a month ago with 88,000 miles as a Ford Blue Certified vehicle. Two days later I know there is something wrong with the transmission. Driving down the highway I was getting that rumble strip feel. Of course salesman thinks it probably just the tires out of balance. Long story short after 3 weeks at the dealer, and nearly $4000 later according to dealership, the torque converter was replaced and the shutter is gone. And thankfully I did not have to pay a single dime for it either.
Wish there were more Honest Mechanics like yourself out here !! It’s so hard to find a great mechanic that’s not trying to take you for all you’re worth. 🤦🏼♂️
The problem is when you go to the dealer you're usually dealing with the service guy not the mechanic. The service guy is usually the one that will try to slide in your backdoor with no vaselline.
Exactly! As technicians we get a bad wrap When you have lazy ass service writers who want to be mechanics and tell you a bunch of shit that we never told them or they’re too damn lazy to ask questions so the technician can diagnose it properly. Just like going to the doctor, you have to ask the right questions so you can diagnose it quickly and properly. Quit wasting our time Because when we’re on commission and we’re trying to find out the customer complaint and it comes down to the service writers not doing his job and asking and relaying info back to us so we spend more time than needed so that cost gets put to the customer. I hate lazy ass service people because I want to know the customer complaint so I can probably diagnose it and fix it and move on and make my money. The more they jerk us around the more the customer gets charged for wasted time if we can even charge the customer. So many times we have to eat it. So don’t always blame the tech, lazy ass service people make it worse for the customers and the techs!
You guys work on transmissions!! Our local dealer doesn’t even mess with them , they ship them off somewhere, and it takes FOREVER!!! Luv your channel.👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
You nailed it. That’s the noise I was hearing. Mine normally does it around 50-60 mph and going up slight incline with little gas as normal. I was told to use instant shudder fix by lube guard as a diagnostic tool. My 2016 f150 2.7 eco boost with 112,000 miles is what I have. Only started hearing is a couple of days ago.
Hey man, just wanted to thank you for your honesty. I am dropping my truck off today to have this work done at 117k miles. Im under warranty until 125k. 2015 F150. Bottom line is, you sir are a good man. I thank you for your honesty and willingness to not scam folks. Good honest mechanics are extremely hard to find brother. Keep it up.
@@Patrick-ik1bi nope. I was under the milage limit but missed the warranty date by 3 days by the time I could get into have it fixed. Cost me $3000 to get it done. :(
Thank you!! that's the problem i'm having. Took my 17' Expedition to the dealership. They wanted to charge almost $2900 to replace the transfer case. I didn't think that made sense that the vibration/noise was coming from there. I will call a transmission shop for advice .
Finally someone who can give me an explanation to what I was feeling on my truck. Super helpful and informative man! Subscribed!! Couldn’t find anything anywhere! Thank you for this, and keep up the good work!
thank you for this video.This was exactly what my truck was doing. i had to rebuild the torque converter and some of the transmission at 120k it started at 118k miles on my 2015 f150.
Dude I love your videos. Have a 2017 F150 that I bought brand new and have had zero issues with it (other than a small part on the pano roof that broke at 20k miles and replaced under warranty). But about 3 months ago it started doing the shudder EXACTLY as you described. Under light load in 6th at about 65-70 mph, just a little bit of throttle I kept thinking I was literally drifting onto a rumble strip. And thank you so much for giving us all an idea of what it should cost. I'm fairly handy and can do most jobs on the truck myself but transmission work just scares the bejesus out of me. I have no experience messing with trannys and am getting ready to take the truck on a 3 year journey with my family next summer touring the national parks and I'm getting the truck in tip top shape to tow a 30' travel trailer.
Thanks for making this video, and it made me certain that thats what going on in my moms truck. Its a 2017 f150, started around 45,000 and currently had 50,000 miles. The truck isn’t driven hard and she never tows with it
Thays the problem light driving wears the clutch packs and mkre debris ends up in tbe oil. Harder accelartion to lock up trabs clutches lasts themclonger and better fuel milage obviously bot punching it
Excellent video. Your description of the rumble strips is exactly what I told the dealer. I am replacing the torque converter in my 2016 F150 with the 5.0 V8 today. Little more than the cost you stated but I trust the dealership. Thank you, this is great. I hope to drive this truck at least 10 years total.
Lubegard Shudder stop in 130,000 mile old fluid stopped my '15 2.7 F150 shudder for 10,000 miles. At 140,000 miles the shudder came back. Drained the fluid (brown), changed the filter (pan and magnets were very clean), and filled it with Valvoline Maxlife. Driving fine again, and I think the 5-4 downshift is better than it was. If shudder comes back soon, I'm going to try additives, probably a lubegard product, along with a 3 gallon flush through a cooler line.
Seen a fair amount of forums with guys swapping fluid and filter and adding lubegard platinum and it fixes the issue. Like 40-100,000 miles and its still going but still a good vid 👍
2016 F150, 5.0 engine, torque converter replaced At 44,000 miles. Currently at dealer for replacement at 55,000 miles. Not a harsh driver or continuous trailer puller. Luckily under warranty, but they don’t get in a hurry with warranty work!
Your the only one that described my issue spot on! My truck is making the sounds just line its running over the the warning ridges on the side or in the middle of the rd. Ive done all the idiot proof things and couldn't figure it out. I called a AAMco we've come to trust and the woman told me that's most likely what it was. Welp I have no way of testing it out so I needed to do some homework. Sounds like the both of you are right. Ford had my truck for 3 weeks and still couldn't get to it. Ugh! When I got the truck it had so.e issues but nothing I couldn't fix. The biggest thing is it's gonna hurt my bank account. But thank you for posting this video, no matter if it was a couple yrs old it still help me Tremendously. Keep up the good and honest work! Much love from the great state of Georgia! 🍑🥜🍉❤❤❤❤
Alright, as a fellow ford trans tech, I ALWAYS take a fluid sample first and check for metal debris or excessive clutch material. If there’s an indication of possible debris, I quote removing the pan to look for ferrous metal or other material debris. With that sample or evidence, I then either continue on with the normal converter replacement and the heated cooler flush machine procedure OR quote a unit due to the warranty they get with it or overhaul if units are on backorder or too far out if there is excessive metal contamination. Only if the person had been driving for a long amount of time with the issue have I seen true metal contamination due the problem compounding on an underlying concern. 6f35s in the Explorer 2.3s - Remember those? Converters would completely infect the entire transmission leading to an instructed replacement of the main control assembly, converter, and complete overhaul to clean out any contaminants and replace any affected parts. Do not for a minute believe every transmission in need of a converter is immune to this possibility. Always get a fluid sample, quote dropping the pan to be sure if the fluid is burnt or highly contaminated, and always flush the cooler.
Another thing that should help is doing a transmission service at 30 000 and 60 000 miles so that way you help get alot of the small metal filings from the transmission breaking in out of there. If they're allowed to acumulate too much. They'll actually start shorting out your shift solenoids intermittently. Thats another potential issue with these transmissions if you don't do those first 2 services. It wouldn't surprise me if it screws up your torque converter too. Just on a side note thats something else I've learned about these particular transmissions.
Cheers dude.. that was a great video.. Had my truck at Ford today for a diagnosis.. they couldnt figure it out, but you nailed exactly my symptoms . Thx!
my 2016 F160 is at the dealer right now having this replaced. the way you described the issue (rumble strip) is exactly what's been happening. you nailed the symptoms. Cost of job (GULP), just over $2,500. happened at 105,000 miles.
I've got a 2017 F-150 and you exactly described the symptoms it's having right now. I took it to a local dealership and they said the entire transmission needed replaced... and it would cost $8500!!! After watching this I'm thinking it might be a good idea to take it to a different dealership.
I hope I’m not too late. But have you tried the lubeguard shutter fixx? I thought my torque converter went bad but when I put the shudder fix in the tranny, it doesn’t shudder anymore. All I need to do now is change the fluid.
@@Foxbody302 i did actually and ya it helped, got rid of the shudder. Still getting a whirring or slight grinding sound tho, gona take it to a local transmission place on thursday to take a closer look at it. They suggested it may just need the fluid changed as well. The fluid definitely looked like it was in need of changing when i added the shudder fixx. Funny part is i had the aforementioned dealership change the fluid less than 20k miles ago, i guess they just didn't.
Man, thanks that’s exactly what was wrong with my transmission at 140,000 miles they started getting the road strip vibration I really took care of my transmission. I don’t feel bad anymore now that I know it’s a common problem. Thanks bro!!
I’m pretty sure just like many others you describe my situation as well. My question is does this condition worsen if you don’t do anything with it? Will the torque converter eventually just give out and fail?
I have a 2009 F150 with 5.4 and 312K miles on the original motor and transmission. Today it started vibrating (similar to a misfire, but with no check engine light) upon light acceleration at highway speeds (around 70mph/2100 RPM). It sounds like this might be exactly what I'm experiencing. It also tends to happen at the bottom of a slight incline in the road.
WOW! I had a 2001 F250 with the 5.4 that did exactly what you described. Light acceleration, kinda rumble strip feeling/shuttering in the trans. The cam synchronizers killed the engine before anything else gave out.
3.3 & 3.8L Caravans (incl Voyager and Town & Country minivans) were bad about this. What sucked was my dealer (back in the 90’s) would not warranty the work unless trans was gone through. Even though the pan was clean and no coffee grinds in it, no warranty unless overhaul. The 4 speed (42RE, 44RE, and 46RE rear drives were bad at smoking the TCC but you never felt it. Never had a TCC fail in a 47RE as this one was behind the Cummins and was able to take the extra loads in OD. The pcm on the gas engine transmission was programmed to lock the clutch too early and would not unlock for moderate acceleration there by punishing the TCC. The bigger the oversized tires & wheels the sooner the TCC would fail.
Just Bought a 2019 F-150 10 spd. drove it 180 miles from the seller. I noticed this vibration at cruising speed; 70, 80 mph. I was wondering how to describe this vibration sound to a mechanic until I watched your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I'm taking it in for a fluid/filter change tomorrow to see if that fixes it. maybe it will clear it out enough, or do you think I should have him add "Shutter fix" to the new transmission fluid??? Any suggestions ? ?
Your videos are awesome, and really helpful for even me as a machanic my self , but I will say we have fixed multiple 6r80 converter shutters over the years with servicing the transmission with Chrysler fluid, its slicker and seems to do the trick and we haven't had any come back with it back to shuddering, we also like to use an anti shudder additive for extra protection, this has also worked for many other models, with the exptoin of wetal or clutch lining in the fluid or pan.
I was thinking about putting Mobil1 HP LV Blue label (GM 8 speed shudder fix) in my '15 F150. I even bought it. I put Lubegard Shudder stop in my 130,000 mile fluid and it stopped the shudder for 10,000 miles. It's back at 140,000 miles, so I did a filter, pan with a drain, and filled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. The fluid was brown, but almost nothing in the pan or on the magnets. If the shudder comes back, I flush about 3 gallons through cooler line, and add lubegard's recommended additive. I think it's called Platinum.
Pretty sure this is my problem in my 2016 F150 with 140K miles. I have been chasing a misfire but believe this is it. Hope it is covered under extended warranty.
My 2016 F-150 did this. Bought it from original owner at 123K. He pulled some with it. Took it to trans shop, they put a tube of shudderfix in it $12. Problem instantly went away. However they said it was a temporary solution. Fluid was pretty cooked. They suggested flushing fluid, replace with new as well as filter. Cant get all the old fliud out as a lot of it is in converter and valve body. So they recommended changing fluid and filter again to dilute the bad fluid. I did this myself after 10K, have put another 5K or so on it. Seems to have cured it. However it does sometimes stall when idling in gear. I dont know if that's separate issue or not.
I wonder if this is the shudder I’m feeling. I feel the shudder in the front end and it happens mostly when I accelerate or have it in cruise and push the acceleration button on the steering wheel. I’ll call my ford dealer and ask what they think. Out of curiosity would a possibly worn CV axle rod in a 2012 F-150 Ecoboost give a shudder? I have 250,000 miles on it
2010 5.4 with 225k with the same issue. Curious if it's detrimental to just leave it alone and accelerate through it? Idk I don't mind dropping the 2k to fix it but is it more of an annoyance or should really address it??
Ughhhhh, mine started doing this about 2 months ago, didn’t become a huge problem until recently. I’m going to see if I can try the temporary fix, just to see if that is actually the cause, if it is, i’ll see if i can get it done locally.
Mason, Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80. I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2. We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem. Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens. Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the last 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change. After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear. We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it. What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home. Now I’m thinking torque converter too. Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans? Where would the fluid have come from? It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
I’d put a lead frame in it and check it. The vibration may not be related to it sticking in 6th gear. It may need a converter later on but from what your describing it sounds like a lead frame to me. Before you put it in I would check with your dealer because there is actually a recall on some of them extending the warranty out to 150K. Those lead frames are notorious for going out and making one stick in a higher gear. You also should be able to tell when you drop the pan if the converter is going out because it’s gonna be covered in thick clutch material. Not just black, it should be full of debris if the converter has issues. Hope that helps you some.
@@FlyingWrenches13 mason, thank you for the reply. I will keep you posted on what I find. I am just getting back in this project after being out of town for a couple weeks. Phil
Mine does this in 6th too like will go up in RPM a little when cruising at like 40 MPH and I have a exhaust so you can definitely hear it it’s always done this tho and if I give sit gas and go up to 50 mph it will go away
2016 150 mine does this when it builds boost and when I stay in the throttle it continues and the CEL comes on and if I let it cruise for about 1/2 mile and it goes away, would it be the same thing. Feels exactly like your describing about the rumble strips. Thanks in advance
Great video nailed it im having this happen while in 5th under light throttle byt not enough for to downshift under load i guess you can say ... im at 215k. Miles do you think it would be ok to replace TC along with with filter and fluid or will this cause more harm then good ?
Had a few that have came in for these exact concerns, seems to happen more after the leadframe replacement. The last 3 I’ve done have came after another shop All shuttering, becoming so much more common in all ford vehicles.
Ford runs these transmissions too hot and use the torque converter clutch a lot more aggressively than in the past for fuel economy reasons. It's the reason GM has had torque converter issues too (running too hot and locking up in nearly every gear).
Any info on older fords? Just started driving a 2001 f150 I bought a while ago and it feels like misfiring. PID doesn’t show any misfire counts and there was a misfire code on cylinder 1 that I had fixed. Not sure if misfire is gone but PIDS don’t show any counts. Still feels like it’s missing even at idle. Thanks for video I’ll probably just replace it myself soon since I can do it for cheap myself
This video is incredibly helpful. Our 2015 Ford Transit with 95,000 miles has a really bad torque converter shudder. They Magic City Ford in Lexington quoted us $7,200 to replace the torque converter. Should I get other estimates or should I do it myself. For less than $5000, I can put a two-post lift in my garage, purchase a transmission jack and the torque converter and do the job myself. About how heavy is the 6R80 transmission?
So the transit is a whole different animal. If you have a rwd transit the subframe has to come out. The subframe cage nuts are notorious for spinning and if they do you got big problems. They are actually encased in the body, you can’t get to them without cutting a hole in the body. If your very mechanically inclined i would try it but don’t think it’s going to be as easy as a normal truck. I usually charge about 12 hours labor just to pull and put on a transit. If you have a fwd transit with a 6f35 they are a cake walk if you’ve removed fwd transmissions before. The 6r80 isnt any heavier than any of the old aod’s, 700r’s, or 4l60’s.
Can the shutter happen on deceleration too? Feeling it on acceleration and deceleration. Truck feels like it’s down shifting late slowing down and actually shaking you can see the truck shake like bad brakes would but does it without the brakes when coasting to stop. Also it’s way worse when the truck is hot from driving highway speeds for hour +
Good video! While I agree most transmissions don’t need to be overhauled, some torque converters fall apart and spread fine metal throughout the trans. At a minimum it should be recommended to disassemble and inspect the main control. The 6f35 is the worst and needs an overhaul once the converter fails and pushes that gray sludge every where. I’ve done way more 6f35s than 6r80s, you should do a video on that one.
Thanks man. I’ve done a ton of 6f35’s too. Always overhaul those things no matter what lol if not they will be back. I’m gonna do one here pretty soon. I have one to tear down here in the next week so maybe I’ll get to record some of that.
Hi!!! I have a escape with this trans 6f35 and now when accelerating like overtake its shutter..could be just the converter? Or i need to repair the trans to?? Here en my country is like expensive and poor of parts😢
@@pablomachucachavez1014 My girlfriend has a Ford Escape. It was shuddering when it shifted. I told her to have the transmission flushed. She did and it fixed the problem. It’s been about nine months and it hasn’t returned. Relatively cheap fix. My F150 on the other hand has the same issue. I had it flushed however it did not fix the problem. I’m beginning to think it’s the torque converter.
I've been having a similar problem on my 2017 Ford Transit 150 cargo 3.7 flex fuel 6 SPD 6r80 with 300,000 mi but it didn't start out noticeable like a vibration. I drive about 250 mi a day 5 days a week. When I first started noticing a difference was after long weeks if I drove 1300 to 1500 mi in a week toward the end of the week and at the end of the day on friday it would feel just a little rough in shifting and a little vibration but I would park it for the weekend and the next week it would be just fine. If I had another busy week toward the end of the week it would feel a little rough. If my week was lighter I didn't notice it at all. This happened for 16,000 mi. As the weeks went on it got slightly a little worse and I mean slightly. It was still very hard to figure out what the problem was. I took it to two or three different transmission shops and the Ford dealership where I normally get service done and without testing, driving or looking at it they are all saying we're going to need to change the transmission just drive it until It's undrivable. Personally I like to be proactive and get something fixed that can be fixed before it fails completely I can't afford to be off the road. This was all during the summer and I assumed it's probably overheating a little. But now that fall is here and we're getting close to winter the nights are cold and when I go to the van in the morning and take off if I don't let it warm up for a few minutes there's a noticeable whirring sound until it gets a warmer. So I'm certain it's the torque converter now especially after listening to this video and others like it. At 300,000 mi is it worth replacing the torque converter? The transmission seems to be shifting just fine especially when I use the button to shift if I use the manual shifting setting. When it's in drive it seems to overheat if I drive more than 200 mi in a day for a week. I know that if I don't do something soon the torque converter can fail and pieces of metal can fall out into the transmission. I don't think we're there yet. Any advice? Oh and a side question I keep hearing these horror stories of transmission shops having a hard time taking off the crossbar support the frame bolts get stuck and they have to cut it out. Is that your experience as well being a Ford transmission serviceman?
Is it something that has to be replaced quick mason? As in when it starts shuddering should you get it replaced immediately? Or is it just an annoying noise
I'm starting to get these same symptoms on my 2011 F150 4x4 lariat with 287,000 miles. I change the fluid in mine every 2 years no matter the mileage. Transmission shifts fine and no leaks, just the skip/ shutter. Would you replace just the torque Converter/filter trans oil or rebuild?
Flying Wrenches, Would you care to go in depth what actually is breaking/tearing up in the torque converter? ie: pump,, stator, just wondering what is actually Failing. Thank you
Got a new subscriber here. The rumble strip description fits perfect. I've been trying to figure it out on my 15' expedition it just started at 157k. I keep throttling around trying to figure out if it's the turbos i just replaced or what but it makes sense since its only when its still in lockup on feather light throttling mainly going up hills. It's worse with cruise on so on the big hills I make it downshift thanks for your video I'll be sure to check out some others. One of my next ventures is replacing the vacuum pump.
What is a rough shift with squeal between 4-5 and once in a while between 3-4, downshifts just fine, but if I let off the gas it shifts perfectly fine from 4-5? Found out the trans fluid was as full as could be, drained the fluid down to proper level and put Lucas trans fluid conditioner, but haven't reset the KAM and it still does it, doesn't really seem like it has the rumble strip shudder tho, it's a 2011 F150 Ecoboost
Man, I was really liking this video till you brought up price lol. Just picked up my 15 expedition from a 3rd party shop that obviously wanted to change the whole trans out, as you said. Thinking about doing a drain and fill and seeing how that works out. Thanks for the great info.
Definitely the video I needed! Thank you for the honest and well explained video. Totally nailed the noise. I’ve been saying it feels like rumble strip vibrations lol 😂. My 2015 F-150 has 85000 miles. Off to the shop 🤦♂️
Question about 2016 F-150 2.7L V6 If the torque converter is bad do I need to replace the whole transmission? Mechanic is saying if its bad then its sent parts into the transmission and if only replace the converter then transmission will fail due that parts that came off converter going out into the transmission.
I just got the shutter start on my 1998 ford expedition with the E4OD after 230,000 miles. I tried the Lubegard shutter fix, but doesn't seem to work. Its not a consistent problem either, comes up every once in a while. Bought the vehicle for $1800 about 8 years ago and put 100,000+ miles on it. So for me, it's not worth the $2000 to fix it.
Hi awesome video just found ur channel.I just bought a 01 f150 lariat 5.4 I’m new to ford but when I put it in reverse I hear a like pop and really at any speed when I let of the accelerator there’s a bad vibration till I’m steady bk on the gas.have u ever seen this ?Im new to ford but the truck was single owner it shifts really smooth as well
Quick question: Is a slight rise in engine RPM during this shudder indicative of it happening in/being the torque converter? This is what I've noticed on my 2010 F150's 6R80.
Hi Maysen, I was wondering if you ever heard a faulty torque converter making a noise which sounds like a belt or pulley squeal Under acceleration? It’s more prevalent on the driver side of the motor, I put a stethoscope to the motor and it doesn’t appear to be anything from the engine itself. I’m thinking it could be the torque converter. Any experience with such a thing? Thanks for your help!
I have a 2015 expedition. I have this exact problem. It started after i had the trans fluid flushed and changed at 125k miles. I thought it was the coil packs miss firing. Can i get a part number of that fluid to put in to temporarily stop the shutter from happening?? I have 200k on the truck now.
Does anyone know if you change your gear ratio on your truck should you change install a torque converter with a different stall speed or does it affect your torque converter at all
My 2013 f150 ecoboost had this shutter. After watching this video I contacted my local transmission shop and told him my symptoms and I said I think I need a torque converter. Long story short they drove it and ended up just changing my transmission fluid and filter. I have around 160k and had never changed it. It immediately fixed the problem. The shop says that about 90% of the time this has fixed the shutter problem. Shout out to Powertrain Specialties in Gonzales Louisiana for being so honest and not selling me a huge job that was unnecessary.
thank you!
Same here, fluid & filter fixed issue for ~$500 on my 07 F150 173k miles.
This only last temporary though right?
Is this relevant to the 10 speeds as well?
Alot of this is the non serviceable yoke check videos I have.a raptor amd it's from creeping to 4 mph replace the tqc and yoke with a greasable one and your good
Lubegard shudder fix after a fluid and filter change has worked on every f150 6r80 owner I've spoken to. Including myself. Some report still no issues after 65k miles!
I just used it in mine but it also has a severe miss I can’t figure out 😢
@@surefiremushroomsmicrogreensAny luck so far?
Just bought a 2016 F-150 with 3.5 a month ago with 88,000 miles as a Ford Blue Certified vehicle. Two days later I know there is something wrong with the transmission. Driving down the highway I was getting that rumble strip feel. Of course salesman thinks it probably just the tires out of balance. Long story short after 3 weeks at the dealer, and nearly $4000 later according to dealership, the torque converter was replaced and the shutter is gone. And thankfully I did not have to pay a single dime for it either.
Literally yes. You nailed it. I dealt with it for like 1 year until I figured out what was happening. Crazy
Wish there were more Honest Mechanics like yourself out here !!
It’s so hard to find a great mechanic that’s not trying to take you for all you’re worth. 🤦🏼♂️
The problem is when you go to the dealer you're usually dealing with the service guy not the mechanic. The service guy is usually the one that will try to slide in your backdoor with no vaselline.
Exactly! As technicians we get a bad wrap When you have lazy ass service writers who want to be mechanics and tell you a bunch of shit that we never told them or they’re too damn lazy to ask questions so the technician can diagnose it properly. Just like going to the doctor, you have to ask the right questions so you can diagnose it quickly and properly. Quit wasting our time Because when we’re on commission and we’re trying to find out the customer complaint and it comes down to the service writers not doing his job and asking and relaying info back to us so we spend more time than needed so that cost gets put to the customer. I hate lazy ass service people because I want to know the customer complaint so I can probably diagnose it and fix it and move on and make my money. The more they jerk us around the more the customer gets charged for wasted time if we can even charge the customer. So many times we have to eat it. So don’t always blame the tech, lazy ass service people make it worse for the customers and the techs!
You guys work on transmissions!! Our local dealer doesn’t even mess with them , they ship them off somewhere, and it takes FOREVER!!! Luv your channel.👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Have this in a '17 f150. Best way I can describe it. It's like having 2 12" subs in the backseat hit bass. It's short and intermittent.
You nailed it. That’s the noise I was hearing. Mine normally does it around 50-60 mph and going up slight incline with little gas as normal. I was told to use instant shudder fix by lube guard as a diagnostic tool. My 2016 f150 2.7 eco boost with 112,000 miles is what I have. Only started hearing is a couple of days ago.
Hey man, just wanted to thank you for your honesty. I am dropping my truck off today to have this work done at 117k miles. Im under warranty until 125k. 2015 F150. Bottom line is, you sir are a good man. I thank you for your honesty and willingness to not scam folks. Good honest mechanics are extremely hard to find brother. Keep it up.
Did your warranty cover the replacement?
@@Patrick-ik1bi nope. I was under the milage limit but missed the warranty date by 3 days by the time I could get into have it fixed. Cost me $3000 to get it done. :(
instant shudder fix fixed mine for over a year, added another tube of it and no mure shudder for over another year now.
Thank you!! that's the problem i'm having. Took my 17' Expedition to the dealership. They wanted to charge almost $2900 to replace the transfer case. I didn't think that made sense that the vibration/noise was coming from there. I will call a transmission shop for advice .
Finally someone who can give me an explanation to what I was feeling on my truck. Super helpful and informative man! Subscribed!! Couldn’t find anything anywhere! Thank you for this, and keep up the good work!
thank you for this video.This was exactly what my truck was doing. i had to rebuild the torque converter and some of the transmission at 120k it started at 118k miles on my 2015 f150.
Dude I love your videos. Have a 2017 F150 that I bought brand new and have had zero issues with it (other than a small part on the pano roof that broke at 20k miles and replaced under warranty). But about 3 months ago it started doing the shudder EXACTLY as you described. Under light load in 6th at about 65-70 mph, just a little bit of throttle I kept thinking I was literally drifting onto a rumble strip. And thank you so much for giving us all an idea of what it should cost. I'm fairly handy and can do most jobs on the truck myself but transmission work just scares the bejesus out of me. I have no experience messing with trannys and am getting ready to take the truck on a 3 year journey with my family next summer touring the national parks and I'm getting the truck in tip top shape to tow a 30' travel trailer.
My 03 expedition had a shutter. Went to O'Reilly's and paid $10 for friction modifier transmission has worked fine every since
Thank You for the video, just had these symptoms at 134k. Getting Filter and fluid changed tomorrow and hoping for the best.
How'd it go?
Did it work?
@@chrispewkremeIt did work. Almost a year and no issues.
@@kevinmorris9712It did work. Almost a year and no issues.
Thanks for making this video, and it made me certain that thats what going on in my moms truck. Its a 2017 f150, started around 45,000 and currently had 50,000 miles. The truck isn’t driven hard and she never tows with it
Thays the problem light driving wears the clutch packs and mkre debris ends up in tbe oil.
Harder accelartion to lock up trabs clutches lasts themclonger and better fuel milage obviously bot punching it
You perfectly explained my situation. Thank you for your information.. Basically everything I needed to know in 11 minutes
Glad to help!
Excellent video. Your description of the rumble strips is exactly what I told the dealer. I am replacing the torque converter in my 2016 F150 with the 5.0 V8 today. Little more than the cost you stated but I trust the dealership. Thank you, this is great. I hope to drive this truck at least 10 years total.
Did that fix it?
Lubegard Shudder stop in 130,000 mile old fluid stopped my '15 2.7 F150 shudder for 10,000 miles. At 140,000 miles the shudder came back. Drained the fluid (brown), changed the filter
(pan and magnets were very clean), and filled it with Valvoline Maxlife. Driving fine again, and I think the 5-4 downshift is better than it was. If shudder comes back soon, I'm going to try additives, probably a lubegard product, along with a 3 gallon flush through a cooler line.
I have this and it's so infrequent I assumed I ran over gravel I didn't see or rumble strips. Great video!
Thanks!
Seen a fair amount of forums with guys swapping fluid and filter and adding lubegard platinum and it fixes the issue. Like 40-100,000 miles and its still going but still a good vid 👍
2016 F150, 5.0 engine, torque converter replaced At 44,000 miles. Currently at dealer for replacement at 55,000 miles. Not a harsh driver or continuous trailer puller. Luckily under warranty, but they don’t get in a hurry with warranty work!
Your the only one that described my issue spot on! My truck is making the sounds just line its running over the the warning ridges on the side or in the middle of the rd. Ive done all the idiot proof things and couldn't figure it out. I called a AAMco we've come to trust and the woman told me that's most likely what it was. Welp I have no way of testing it out so I needed to do some homework. Sounds like the both of you are right. Ford had my truck for 3 weeks and still couldn't get to it. Ugh! When I got the truck it had so.e issues but nothing I couldn't fix. The biggest thing is it's gonna hurt my bank account. But thank you for posting this video, no matter if it was a couple yrs old it still help me Tremendously.
Keep up the good and honest work!
Much love from the great state of Georgia! 🍑🥜🍉❤❤❤❤
Alright, as a fellow ford trans tech, I ALWAYS take a fluid sample first and check for metal debris or excessive clutch material. If there’s an indication of possible debris, I quote removing the pan to look for ferrous metal or other material debris. With that sample or evidence, I then either continue on with the normal converter replacement and the heated cooler flush machine procedure OR quote a unit due to the warranty they get with it or overhaul if units are on backorder or too far out if there is excessive metal contamination. Only if the person had been driving for a long amount of time with the issue have I seen true metal contamination due the problem compounding on an underlying concern. 6f35s in the Explorer 2.3s - Remember those? Converters would completely infect the entire transmission leading to an instructed replacement of the main control assembly, converter, and complete overhaul to clean out any contaminants and replace any affected parts. Do not for a minute believe every transmission in need of a converter is immune to this possibility. Always get a fluid sample, quote dropping the pan to be sure if the fluid is burnt or highly contaminated, and always flush the cooler.
Man this makes me wish ford would come back with e40d or make the torque converter serviceable, I'm glad you described the truck bounce perfectly.
You hit the good points in these videos. I dig the channel thanks 🤘
Thank you for the information, I think you just saved me about $6000
Glad to hear!
Another thing that should help is doing a transmission service at 30 000 and 60 000 miles so that way you help get alot of the small metal filings from the transmission breaking in out of there. If they're allowed to acumulate too much. They'll actually start shorting out your shift solenoids intermittently. Thats another potential issue with these transmissions if you don't do those first 2 services. It wouldn't surprise me if it screws up your torque converter too. Just on a side note thats something else I've learned about these particular transmissions.
Do I have to use the Motorcraft Mercon LV, or is the Valvoline the same stuff? Maybe even better?
Cheers dude.. that was a great video.. Had my truck at Ford today for a diagnosis.. they couldnt figure it out, but you nailed exactly my symptoms . Thx!
I added motorcraft XL3 friction modifier to my transmission for torque converter shudder do I need to drain this before driving it or is it ok?
my 2016 F160 is at the dealer right now having this replaced. the way you described the issue (rumble strip) is exactly what's been happening. you nailed the symptoms. Cost of job (GULP), just over $2,500. happened at 105,000 miles.
Did it fix it?
@@MrLofswold Yes, have since put 20k miles on it, running like a clock.
I've got a 2017 F-150 and you exactly described the symptoms it's having right now. I took it to a local dealership and they said the entire transmission needed replaced... and it would cost $8500!!! After watching this I'm thinking it might be a good idea to take it to a different dealership.
I hope I’m not too late. But have you tried the lubeguard shutter fixx? I thought my torque converter went bad but when I put the shudder fix in the tranny, it doesn’t shudder anymore. All I need to do now is change the fluid.
@@Foxbody302 i did actually and ya it helped, got rid of the shudder. Still getting a whirring or slight grinding sound tho, gona take it to a local transmission place on thursday to take a closer look at it. They suggested it may just need the fluid changed as well. The fluid definitely looked like it was in need of changing when i added the shudder fixx. Funny part is i had the aforementioned dealership change the fluid less than 20k miles ago, i guess they just didn't.
Man, thanks that’s exactly what was wrong with my transmission at 140,000 miles they started getting the road strip vibration I really took care of my transmission. I don’t feel bad anymore now that I know it’s a common problem. Thanks bro!!
Spot on, thanks for sharing. Appreciate the honesty, it’s in short supply these days.
I’m pretty sure just like many others you describe my situation as well. My question is does this condition worsen if you don’t do anything with it? Will the torque converter eventually just give out and fail?
Mine in gradually getting worse. Hasnt failed yet
Went to buy a 2017 F150 with 58,000 miles today. Had torque converter shudder on test drive. Dealer said will fix it, but I said no thanks.
I have a 2009 F150 with 5.4 and 312K miles on the original motor and transmission. Today it started vibrating (similar to a misfire, but with no check engine light) upon light acceleration at highway speeds (around 70mph/2100 RPM). It sounds like this might be exactly what I'm experiencing. It also tends to happen at the bottom of a slight incline in the road.
WOW! I had a 2001 F250 with the 5.4 that did exactly what you described. Light acceleration, kinda rumble strip feeling/shuttering in the trans. The cam synchronizers killed the engine before anything else gave out.
3.3 & 3.8L Caravans (incl Voyager and Town & Country minivans) were bad about this. What sucked was my dealer (back in the 90’s) would not warranty the work unless trans was gone through. Even though the pan was clean and no coffee grinds in it, no warranty unless overhaul. The 4 speed (42RE, 44RE, and 46RE rear drives were bad at smoking the TCC but you never felt it. Never had a TCC fail in a 47RE as this one was behind the Cummins and was able to take the extra loads in OD. The pcm on the gas engine transmission was programmed to lock the clutch too early and would not unlock for moderate acceleration there by punishing the TCC. The bigger the oversized tires & wheels the sooner the TCC would fail.
Just Bought a 2019 F-150 10 spd. drove it 180 miles from the seller. I noticed this vibration at cruising speed; 70, 80 mph. I was wondering how to describe this vibration sound to a mechanic until I watched your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I'm taking it in for a fluid/filter change tomorrow to see if that fixes it. maybe it will clear it out enough, or do you think I should have him add "Shutter fix" to the new transmission fluid??? Any suggestions ? ?
Why buy a ford converter when we already know they don’t last I would prefer after market great video thanks
Your videos are awesome, and really helpful for even me as a machanic my self , but I will say we have fixed multiple 6r80 converter shutters over the years with servicing the transmission with Chrysler fluid, its slicker and seems to do the trick and we haven't had any come back with it back to shuddering, we also like to use an anti shudder additive for extra protection, this has also worked for many other models, with the exptoin of wetal or clutch lining in the fluid or pan.
I was thinking about putting Mobil1 HP LV Blue label (GM 8 speed shudder fix) in my '15 F150. I even bought it. I put Lubegard Shudder stop in my 130,000 mile fluid and it stopped the shudder for 10,000 miles. It's back at 140,000 miles, so I did a filter, pan with a drain, and filled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. The fluid was brown, but almost nothing in the pan or on the magnets. If the shudder comes back, I flush about 3 gallons through cooler line, and add lubegard's recommended additive. I think it's called Platinum.
@@GusMahn p
Pretty sure this is my problem in my 2016 F150 with 140K miles. I have been chasing a misfire but believe this is it. Hope it is covered under extended warranty.
My 2016 F-150 did this. Bought it from original owner at 123K. He pulled some with it. Took it to trans shop, they put a tube of shudderfix in it $12. Problem instantly went away. However they said it was a temporary solution. Fluid was pretty cooked. They suggested flushing fluid, replace with new as well as filter. Cant get all the old fliud out as a lot of it is in converter and valve body. So they recommended changing fluid and filter again to dilute the bad fluid. I did this myself after 10K, have put another 5K or so on it. Seems to have cured it. However it does sometimes stall when idling in gear. I dont know if that's separate issue or not.
How do you add/ check level of transmission fluid after doing this process yourself?
Thumbs up man. Been having this issue for a couple weeks and thought it was my spark plugs again! Just fyi my truck had 160k when this started
Thank you! Glad to hear you got it figured out.
I suspected it was the torque converter. You confirmed that. Thanks for your help.
I wonder if this is the shudder I’m feeling. I feel the shudder in the front end and it happens mostly when I accelerate or have it in cruise and push the acceleration button on the steering wheel. I’ll call my ford dealer and ask what they think. Out of curiosity would a possibly worn CV axle rod in a 2012 F-150 Ecoboost give a shudder? I have 250,000 miles on it
What exactly is the fluid I can put into temporarily stop the torque converter shutter please
2010 5.4 with 225k with the same issue. Curious if it's detrimental to just leave it alone and accelerate through it? Idk I don't mind dropping the 2k to fix it but is it more of an annoyance or should really address it??
Thank you. Went to a trans shop and they were insisting that I need a trans rebuild
do you recommend the fluid flush on these 6r80s? or is the drain and fill method plenty?
Ughhhhh, mine started doing this about 2 months ago, didn’t become a huge problem until recently. I’m going to see if I can try the temporary fix, just to see if that is actually the cause, if it is, i’ll see if i can get it done locally.
Very honest and to the point.
Thank you!
Mason,
Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80.
I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2.
We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem.
Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens.
Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the last 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change.
After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear.
We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it.
What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home.
Now I’m thinking torque converter too.
Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans?
Where would the fluid have come from?
It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
I forgot to mention. When I pulled codes I got P0715, p0706, p0707, p0712
I’d put a lead frame in it and check it. The vibration may not be related to it sticking in 6th gear. It may need a converter later on but from what your describing it sounds like a lead frame to me. Before you put it in I would check with your dealer because there is actually a recall on some of them extending the warranty out to 150K. Those lead frames are notorious for going out and making one stick in a higher gear. You also should be able to tell when you drop the pan if the converter is going out because it’s gonna be covered in thick clutch material. Not just black, it should be full of debris if the converter has issues. Hope that helps you some.
I also missed that it was a transit. I don’t think those had that recall.
@@FlyingWrenches13 mason, thank you for the reply. I will keep you posted on what I find. I am just getting back in this project after being out of town for a couple weeks.
Phil
Mine does this in 6th too like will go up in RPM a little when cruising at like 40 MPH and I have a exhaust so you can definitely hear it it’s always done this tho and if I give sit gas and go up to 50 mph it will go away
2016 150 mine does this when it builds boost and when I stay in the throttle it continues and the CEL comes on and if I let it cruise for about 1/2 mile and it goes away, would it be the same thing. Feels exactly like your describing about the rumble strips. Thanks in advance
Awesome video my guy your videos have improved greatly over time keep up the awesome job
Great video nailed it im having this happen while in 5th under light throttle byt not enough for to downshift under load i guess you can say ... im at 215k. Miles do you think it would be ok to replace TC along with with filter and fluid or will this cause more harm then good ?
What’s best upgrade to prevent from happening again?
Had a few that have came in for these exact concerns, seems to happen more after the leadframe replacement. The last 3 I’ve done have came after another shop All shuttering, becoming so much more common in all ford vehicles.
For sure. The 6f35s are bad about it too. Seems like they all do it at some point
Ford runs these transmissions too hot and use the torque converter clutch a lot more aggressively than in the past for fuel economy reasons. It's the reason GM has had torque converter issues too (running too hot and locking up in nearly every gear).
Any info on older fords? Just started driving a 2001 f150 I bought a while ago and it feels like misfiring. PID doesn’t show any misfire counts and there was a misfire code on cylinder 1 that I had fixed. Not sure if misfire is gone but PIDS don’t show any counts. Still feels like it’s missing even at idle. Thanks for video I’ll probably just replace it myself soon since I can do it for cheap myself
Useful info thanks mine still has warranty so hopefully it covers
I've got a 2017 F-150 with the 6R-80. When I'm running in the sweet spot, using cruise or foot throttle, any gear above 25mph. The truck studders.
Would you also recommend flushing the transmission cooler?
Yes flush cooler to, contaminated fluid goes through cooler, flash out as much as you can. Always remember, better save than SORRY!!
I’m feeling a shudder but I don’t hear any extra noise. Could it still be torque converter?
My 2009 does it at takeoff. Is this something that I can continue to run for a while or do I need to repair it asap?
This video is incredibly helpful. Our 2015 Ford Transit with 95,000 miles has a really bad torque converter shudder. They Magic City Ford in Lexington quoted us $7,200 to replace the torque converter. Should I get other estimates or should I do it myself. For less than $5000, I can put a two-post lift in my garage, purchase a transmission jack and the torque converter and do the job myself.
About how heavy is the 6R80 transmission?
So the transit is a whole different animal. If you have a rwd transit the subframe has to come out. The subframe cage nuts are notorious for spinning and if they do you got big problems. They are actually encased in the body, you can’t get to them without cutting a hole in the body. If your very mechanically inclined i would try it but don’t think it’s going to be as easy as a normal truck. I usually charge about 12 hours labor just to pull and put on a transit. If you have a fwd transit with a 6f35 they are a cake walk if you’ve removed fwd transmissions before. The 6r80 isnt any heavier than any of the old aod’s, 700r’s, or 4l60’s.
Can the shutter happen on deceleration too? Feeling it on acceleration and deceleration. Truck feels like it’s down shifting late slowing down and actually shaking you can see the truck shake like bad brakes would but does it without the brakes when coasting to stop. Also it’s way worse when the truck is hot from driving highway speeds for hour +
Could this also be the problem for my 06 f150. It only shudders in 1st and some in second. Shifts flawless the rest of the gears
Good video! While I agree most transmissions don’t need to be overhauled, some torque converters fall apart and spread fine metal throughout the trans. At a minimum it should be recommended to disassemble and inspect the main control. The 6f35 is the worst and needs an overhaul once the converter fails and pushes that gray sludge every where. I’ve done way more 6f35s than 6r80s, you should do a video on that one.
Thanks man. I’ve done a ton of 6f35’s too. Always overhaul those things no matter what lol if not they will be back. I’m gonna do one here pretty soon. I have one to tear down here in the next week so maybe I’ll get to record some of that.
Hi!!! I have a escape with this trans 6f35 and now when accelerating like overtake its shutter..could be just the converter? Or i need to repair the trans to?? Here en my country is like expensive and poor of parts😢
@@pablomachucachavez1014
My girlfriend has a Ford Escape. It was shuddering when it shifted. I told her to have the transmission flushed. She did and it fixed the problem. It’s been about nine months and it hasn’t returned. Relatively cheap fix. My F150 on the other hand has the same issue. I had it flushed however it did not fix the problem. I’m beginning to think it’s the torque converter.
I've been having a similar problem on my 2017 Ford Transit 150 cargo 3.7 flex fuel 6 SPD 6r80 with 300,000 mi but it didn't start out noticeable like a vibration. I drive about 250 mi a day 5 days a week. When I first started noticing a difference was after long weeks if I drove 1300 to 1500 mi in a week toward the end of the week and at the end of the day on friday it would feel just a little rough in shifting and a little vibration but I would park it for the weekend and the next week it would be just fine. If I had another busy week toward the end of the week it would feel a little rough. If my week was lighter I didn't notice it at all. This happened for 16,000 mi. As the weeks went on it got slightly a little worse and I mean slightly. It was still very hard to figure out what the problem was. I took it to two or three different transmission shops and the Ford dealership where I normally get service done and without testing, driving or looking at it they are all saying we're going to need to change the transmission just drive it until It's undrivable. Personally I like to be proactive and get something fixed that can be fixed before it fails completely I can't afford to be off the road. This was all during the summer and I assumed it's probably overheating a little. But now that fall is here and we're getting close to winter the nights are cold and when I go to the van in the morning and take off if I don't let it warm up for a few minutes there's a noticeable whirring sound until it gets a warmer. So I'm certain it's the torque converter now especially after listening to this video and others like it. At 300,000 mi is it worth replacing the torque converter? The transmission seems to be shifting just fine especially when I use the button to shift if I use the manual shifting setting. When it's in drive it seems to overheat if I drive more than 200 mi in a day for a week. I know that if I don't do something soon the torque converter can fail and pieces of metal can fall out into the transmission. I don't think we're there yet. Any advice?
Oh and a side question I keep hearing these horror stories of transmission shops having a hard time taking off the crossbar support the frame bolts get stuck and they have to cut it out. Is that your experience as well being a Ford transmission serviceman?
Is it something that has to be replaced quick mason? As in when it starts shuddering should you get it replaced immediately? Or is it just an annoying noise
I'm starting to get these same symptoms on my 2011 F150 4x4 lariat with 287,000 miles. I change the fluid in mine every 2 years no matter the mileage. Transmission shifts fine and no leaks, just the skip/ shutter. Would you replace just the torque Converter/filter trans oil or rebuild?
I would like to know if there's a torque converter that's not going to fail like the original. An upgraded version!
Flying Wrenches,
Would you care to go in depth what actually is breaking/tearing up in the torque converter?
ie: pump,, stator, just wondering what is actually
Failing.
Thank you
Got a new subscriber here. The rumble strip description fits perfect. I've been trying to figure it out on my 15' expedition it just started at 157k. I keep throttling around trying to figure out if it's the turbos i just replaced or what but it makes sense since its only when its still in lockup on feather light throttling mainly going up hills. It's worse with cruise on so on the big hills I make it downshift thanks for your video I'll be sure to check out some others. One of my next ventures is replacing the vacuum pump.
Thanks Brother, I have this problem as we speak also surging, don't know if that's trans or torque converter.
I'm replacing my torque converter but Wana replace the front pump seal Also do u have a tool link for that
What is a rough shift with squeal between 4-5 and once in a while between 3-4, downshifts just fine, but if I let off the gas it shifts perfectly fine from 4-5? Found out the trans fluid was as full as could be, drained the fluid down to proper level and put Lucas trans fluid conditioner, but haven't reset the KAM and it still does it, doesn't really seem like it has the rumble strip shudder tho, it's a 2011 F150 Ecoboost
Man, I was really liking this video till you brought up price lol. Just picked up my 15 expedition from a 3rd party shop that obviously wanted to change the whole trans out, as you said. Thinking about doing a drain and fill and seeing how that works out. Thanks for the great info.
Definitely the video I needed! Thank you for the honest and well explained video. Totally nailed the noise. I’ve been saying it feels like rumble strip vibrations lol 😂. My 2015 F-150 has 85000 miles. Off to the shop 🤦♂️
I had my torque converter replaced at a Ford dealer less than 2000 miles ago, and it is doing the same thing again, what might be the issues now?
Question about
2016 F-150 2.7L V6
If the torque converter is bad do I need to replace the whole transmission? Mechanic is saying if its bad then its sent parts into the transmission and if only replace the converter then transmission will fail due that parts that came off converter going out into the transmission.
2011 Ford F-150 6R80 transmission needs a lead frame. I was wondering if I do an updated valve body pa68301. do I need to flash the pcm computer?
Yeah you will need to update the solenoid ID.
I have 190,000, have never done anything to my transmission. Pretty sure I have the shudder. Should I do an overhaul?
Converter, filter, new fluid and you will roll on for another 190k. Don’t be oversold.
If the shutter is only happening in overdrive,
Is that a starting point to this starting
my gear drops when i give a bit of hard acceleration from 4th to 1st then struggles its way though back. 6R80.Is this related to that too?
Thanks for the info appreciate that
I just got the shutter start on my 1998 ford expedition with the E4OD after 230,000 miles. I tried the Lubegard shutter fix, but doesn't seem to work. Its not a consistent problem either, comes up every once in a while. Bought the vehicle for $1800 about 8 years ago and put 100,000+ miles on it. So for me, it's not worth the $2000 to fix it.
Hi awesome video just found ur channel.I just bought a 01 f150 lariat 5.4 I’m new to ford but when I put it in reverse I hear a like pop and really at any speed when I let of the accelerator there’s a bad vibration till I’m steady bk on the gas.have u ever seen this ?Im new to ford but the truck was single owner it shifts really smooth as well
Quick question: Is a slight rise in engine RPM during this shudder indicative of it happening in/being the torque converter? This is what I've noticed on my 2010 F150's 6R80.
Hi Maysen, I was wondering if you ever heard a faulty torque converter making a noise which sounds like a belt or pulley squeal Under acceleration?
It’s more prevalent on the driver side of the motor, I put a stethoscope to the motor and it doesn’t appear to be anything from the engine itself. I’m thinking it could be the torque converter. Any experience with such a thing? Thanks for your help!
How long can you go before fixing if you have this problem with the converter
I have a 2015 expedition. I have this exact problem. It started after i had the trans fluid flushed and changed at 125k miles. I thought it was the coil packs miss firing. Can i get a part number of that fluid to put in to temporarily stop the shutter from happening?? I have 200k on the truck now.
Does anyone know if you change your gear ratio on your truck should you change install a torque converter with a different stall speed or does it affect your torque converter at all
Pretty good explanation but what exactly is it inside the torque converter that causes the shutter? Is it a lockup clutch chattering?
Yeah it is. The torque converter clutch or lockup clutch is what causes the shutter.
What about changing the black plastic wiring piece for the solenoids, I heard that's a problem too in these trans???
Yes you are correct! They have a recall that extends the warranty out to 150k miles for that issue.