2015-2017 F150: Transmission Fluid and Filter (6R80)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- How to preform a transmission fluid and filter change on a Ford F150. Ford has used this transmission in their F-150 pickups from 2007 to 2016 prior to introducing the 10-speed 10R80 in 2017. Replacing the transmission filter prior to doing a complete system flush of the automatic transmission on a 2016 Ford F150 with a 6-speed automatic (6R80).
Visit www.masterjacks.com/videos/20...) for Amazon part & tool links.
Amazon Affiliate Links
Transmission Filter (buy direct from dealer to ensure correct part number)
Pan Gasket amzn.to/3YTI9wL
Mercon LV ATF amzn.to/3xboRai
Bottle Pump amzn.to/42CaDgy
Bucket Pump amzn.to/3JSTbhe
Brakleen amzn.to/3XfsHty
Ford recommends a complete system fluid exchange be done at 150,000 miles. However, my vehicle only had 95,000 miles on it, and I found the fluid condition quite poor.
Job Details:
Tools: 19mm wrench, 8mm socket, inch-pound torque wrench, 5-gallon bucket pump (optional)
Parts: approx 5 qts Mercon LV, pan gasket (Fel-Pro TOS18753), transmission filter (Motorcraft FT188 or FT-200 depending on start/stop feature: best to check with dealer), brake/parts cleaner, Permatex medium strength threadlocker BLUE
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: approx 1 hour
CHAPTERS
0:00 Pan Removal
0:58 Parts Cleaning
1:30 Magnets and Gasket
1:50 Filter Installation
2:08 Threadlocker
2:30 Pan Install
3:03 Torque Specs
3:16 Cleanup
3:30 Bucket Pump
4:03 Filling the Pan
4:45 Final Level Check - Навчання та стиль
Great video man, no wasted time straight to the important details. Much appreciated effort in your productions
You’re a lifesaver to men who refuse to spend all their money on repairs instead of their families 🙌🏼
Thank you for taking time to make such fantastic how to videos. Your efforts have helped thousands of people.
Thank you for making a great easy to follow video for us to follow. My 2015 F150 transmission is running smooth now and I saved almost $1,000 over what my Ford dealership wanted to charge me.
Dude you literally have the best video outhere regarding this. Thanks
Great job covering completely how to change transmission fluid in my Ford truck.
Awesome video thanks for making it just finished the job on my truck. I really appreciate that you went step by step
Master Jacks, THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
Great straight to the point video!
Nice job👍
Great video & professional work 👌🏼
This is what I call a perfect instructional video.
Still need to watch the "flush" part after this. There is an additional 13 1/2 quarts left in there as I found out.
@@robertclymer6948 Thanks, although only planning this for now. My transmission has 203k miles on it so not doing all the fluid at once. Also, I replaced stock pan with a Dorman pan with a drain plug, so I can just do this in intervals.
Great Video, very helpful! My truck has the start/stop feature which requires a 2 inlet filter, the FT 200. I bought a Motorcraft from Rock Auto and it came in a box. After I installed it and buttoned up the pan I went to throw the box away and under the packing paper was a small plastic bag, containing the gasket that goes over the shorter inlet tube. Oh Shit! Had to take the pan down and reinstall the filter with this gasket. Not a fun job. It would have been nice if Ford had put a tag on the second inlet telling you there was a gasket to install here. Hope this tip helps others.
Great video, very detailed oriented 👍
Just did my 2015 F150 (6R80). (I Added a Dorman trans pan with drain plug and don't spill any oil on exhaust anymore. This also makes it possible to do 3 to 4 short interval drain-and-refills. Which replaces 70% to 80% of old trans oil. (poor-man's tranny flush). Torque convertor will hold several quarts of oil that WILL NOT drain out.) Checking oil level: 1) Truck must be jacked-up level. 2) Engine running. 3) Know the present trans oil temperature. 4) Now check oil fill level. Start with vehicle on level ground, place a carpenter's level on bottom of a door jam plate and note bubble position. NOW - place vehicle on jack stands at all 4 corners with vehicle re-leveled. (Trans dip-stick is at very front of fluid area. With only front of vehicle jacked up - you will have over-filled trans when dip-stick indicates correct level. With engine not running - half the oil in torque converter can drain back into trans pan. Refill: Start by pouring/pumping only 4 quarts (one gallon) of new oil into trans - THEN start engine to refill torque convertor. Correct oil level is with torque converter FULL - which only happens while trans pump is working/engine running. My refills take about 7 to 7 - 1/2 quarts total each time. Also: trans oil expanses at different temperatures. The dip-stick has two level ranges. COLD: lower cross-hash range (oil below 165 degrees F). HOT: upper range with little bubbles (oil above 180 degrees F.). Many Fords can be set to display trans oil temp on dash. If not then point a laser temperature sensor at trans pan to get correct oil temp. Lastly as you shift thru the gear positions you will want to let go of brake so rear wheels can spin and go thru the upper gears. DO NOT LET GO OF BRAKE !! ABS will "see" front wheels NOT TURNING and set-off many ODBII codes that are very hard to clear afterwords.
Awesome Idea!! So the pan only holds 4 4 1/2 quarts and the rest in the converter and valve body? So you make total sense!!! Love it. Thank you for your input.
Got a link for that doorman pan an plug
I
@@meanf1502 Rock Auto stocks it. Less than $50.00'. Check your factory build numbers (sticker on glove box?) for which trans your truck has.
Awesome Vid! Great detail
Very helpful and thorough, thanks for posting!
For anyone who is following this video, make sure you are installing the correct filter. I bought and initially wanted to use the filter shown in this video however upon dropping the pan, realized that the OEM filter has two ports. Called Ford dealership and they verified the correct filter has 2 ports NOT 1. Make sure you have the correct filter on hand before dropping the pan.
I have the same issue on my 2015 F150. The filter that I pulled out had one outlet. The new filter that I bought did come with two outlets but it didn't come with the rubber seal for the second outlet that goes into the valve body. That part number is FL3Z-7Z302-A. Does anyone know what year they changed from two outlets to one?
Great video. I Would never go 150K though. Even with LV fluid. That fluid looks bad after 60K miles lol.
Definitely change every 60-80K. I got the dorman pan with the drain plug too. That way I can drain and fill about 2 more times. Also add an extra magnet. There was a fix later on but metal contaminants was getting into the solenoids and causing issues.
Great vid! Thanks, bro!
Great video ! Thanks
I did it!!!
Used a scan gauge 2 to verify operating temps but eventually added in 7 quarts but drained about 4.5. 50k miles.
Yikes! Shifts a lot smoother now or it’s just me lol.
Right at the top of the hot zone on the dip stick at around 170 degrees.
Patrick Amos same. i got out roughly 5 quarts put in 7 quarts. 54k miles
JUSTIN GROSE thanks man I was worried lol.
Thanks for the video. The only issue I see is the use of thread locking compound when installing steel fasteners into an aluminum thread. This is a huge no-no and can actually cause the bolts to back out. Engineers rely on a process referred to as galvanic corrosion or dissimilar metal galling to lock the fastener in place, hence no thread lock. Simply make sure that the threads are clean and you’re good to go. By using thread locker in this situation you are actually putting a coating on the fastener that prevents the galvanic lock, blue thread lock releases at very low temps so once the component heats up the thread lock actually becomes a lubricant and makes it easier for the fastener to come loose. As a general rule when removing fasteners from factory installed components if there is no thread lock on the fastener when it comes out, don’t use it going back in.
good Job!
Good video no bs str8 forward
I drain the pan every 10,000 miles ( I installed a drain drain plug ) . Using your fill procedure mine takes 6 to 6 1/2 quarts. 2016 f 150 4x4 !
How often do you change the filter?
Racketier I changed it at 20,000 and will do it again at 50,000 and 80,000 ! It’s probably overkill but cheaper than having a trans overhaul. I do the work myself so it doesn’t cost that much, there are some good deals on mercon LV on E bay .
@@thomasdaum1927 becareful with ebay seller not a reliable source i have seen counterfeits
Fang Chris Yes , especially with spark plugs !
I highly recommend welding gloves and sleeves if you're on the ground. Cat is right there and hot
Wait till it cools down you over achiever lol
Thank you
where on the dipstick should the fluid level sit when hot, in A or B?
I don't know why... but my 2010 F-150 truck 4.6 engine have a original transmission fluid dipstick under hood... I like it...
For those who need the FT-200 do they include an auxiliary pump inlet seal with the filter? Is it sold separately? Thanks in advance for your response anyone !
my Ford Ecosport 1.5 engine with automatic transmission model 6f15 used the Mercon ULV. The owner's manual says to change it at 150,000 miles. Do you think I should exchange it first?
Thanks for the the video. Did mine at 52,000 miles. Everything looked pretty clean yet but I changed it out anyway. My question is the torque on the pan bolts. I have seen recommendations for 80 inch pounds, 98 inch pounds, and 106 inch pounds. I just used 100 and called it good. No leaks
Thank u
I have a ford 150 and when I go slow 35 40 miles princa and it makes a vibration but if I go fast I hear some knocks, what could that be?
Very helpful. I will do on my truck soon.
Hello can someone tell if it would be the same for a 2016 ford expedition limited? Thanks
I’ve been scared shitless to purchase a 2016 Ford due to so many people sayings things such as “new cars are impossible to work on. Get yah a 85”. So far, nothing has really bothered me maintenance wise.
That's why I like my F150
I don’t usually work on fords but I love working on these newer F-150’s. Can definitely see why they are the number one selling pickup
My buddy has a 2017 F-150 2WD with the 5.0 V8. It also has the 6 speed!
Same here but 4wd does the transmission shift hard?
@@anthonyrodrigues5032 Not that he ever mentioned.
I got my transmission flush at 106,000 miles by Ford dealer, then 166,000 rear end leak transmission fluid. Do I need to drain it when the gasket is leaking. I pour some transmission seal stop leak for temporarily. Do I need to change it. I don't do much towing or haul. my transmission 6R80 Ford F150 4.6L 2009. I have no issues with the transmission. By the way, transmission fluid is motorcraft LV used for my transmission but the box says motorcraft mercon SP for filter. Ford motor says LV trans.
Just an FYI to all my fellow DIY'ers....make sure you have an extra set of hands available when you put in the new filter and try to put the pan back on. The Motorcraft filter I got would not stay on while I tried to put the pan/new gasket on. The filter would sloooooly move and then fall off before I could bet the pan and bolts up to screw in. (And yes the old o-ring came out with the old filter.)
I'm gong though this as of right now with my 6r60,I can't get the filer to stay , the pump whine on cold start,I will take care of it this week end
Check your it in park with vehicle running?
Did a pan drop on my 16 f150. I got a little bit more than 6 quarts out at 45000 miles. I replaced the pan with an aftermarket pan with a drain plug. I don’t plan on ever flushing. Just do a drain and fill every year or 2 and a filter change at around 60-80,000 miles.
Is there a difference in just a trans oil change and not flush? First timer here lol
@@remysolis783 Dropping the pan doesn’t get all the fluid out. But if you do it early enough you don’t need to. Just do a pan drop every 30-60,000 miles (depending on use) and it keeps the fluid fresh.
@@flyer8493 so your sayinh a trans drain n fill every 30k and a drain n fill with filter change every 60k is the best way to go about it with no need of ever flushing ?
@@flyer8493 what aftermarket pan did you go with?
Very informative video. Would you recommend using amsoil atf? Thanks
Amsoil makes great oil. I wouldn't change the service interval (Amsoil heavily promotes extended oil life and service intervals), but would be very comfortable using it in my vehicle.
What would you say total time to do this is , 45 min ?
Hi! Love the video, I have 75k miles and I want to do the entire flush. So should I do this filter change and fluid exchange first then go and do the flush or, do the flush with the old stuff first then just drop the pan and change the filter
Do the filter first, then add fluid to the pan. Before starting the engine, hook up your discharge line from the cooler into your waste bucket, then proceed with the flush. The filter in the pan is the beginning point in the fluid circuit. With clean fluid in the pan, you are starting the flush with a clean "push" and won't be mixing the old and new fluids. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching.
What about the inlet filter?
Dude, awesome to the point video. For the flush do you take it to jiffy lube or similar ? New subscriber btw
I have a video of doing the flush on this same pickup. You could see if it's something you want tackle or have someone else do. Thanks for watching!
Be sure it's a good shop regardless where you choose take it
@@MasterJacks would i be okay if i dont flush i??
@@bigkev4385 your transmission will appreciate the new filter and fluid even if you can't do the complete flush.
That's a great video. How many total quarts did it take? I just did mine and after I got the transmission warm and rechecked it, I was quite low. I slowly added fluid with it running until it read in the middle of the dipstick but I am concerned that I overfilled it. I took it for a test drive when completed and it's not shifting right. Thanks for the great video!
Now that you've driven it, I would check the level again with it running. If it's in the range on the dipstick, you should be good. What year and mileage is the pickup?
Thanks for the reply! After seeing your second video on flushing, I realize that you are not able to provide a total number of quarts. It was running when I topped it off but I plan on checking again this weekend. After driving it to work a couple days, the shifts have smoothed out. I reset the KAM last night so we'll see how it goes. 2013 with 100k mi.
I don't guess there would be any issues sucking the old fluid out of the dip stick hole with a pump, before dropping the pan?
No, it's a good idea. Less mess.
Does the truck have to be on a lift leveled or can I park it on level ground and crawl under and work?
Flatus Antiquitous thank you so much!
I have a 2016 F150 XLT V8. I bought a Dorman pan so I could have a drain plug. As I was assembling everything back up, I must have tried at least 20 times to get the Dorman pan installed an could not get things to line up. I had to reuse the OEM pan, which was a success with the 1st attempt. Buyer beware with that Dorman transmission pan.
I just put one on yesterday. Seemed to work fine on my ‘15. What was the issue?
@@GusMahn I never found out. I just reinstalled the oem pan.
Any opinion on doing just a fluid change and not a whole flush? FordTechMakuloco says that flushes aren't always necessary.
I appreciate the question, I get it a lot. I'm a big fan of the complete system fluid exchange (flush). Automatic transmission life is dependant on good fluid. It effects wet clutch operation, heat dispersion, lubrication, etc. People hear horror stories about transmissions slipping after a flush. Why would a transmission slip with new factory fluid? Because it was slipping before the service. It was masked by bad fluid. The bad fluid smoked the clutches and suspended the broken down friction material into the fluid. This gives "false-friction" which is lost when the fluid is replaced. IMHO, a flush is a good idea for any healthy, non-slipping transmission. Any service (simple drain and fill) is better than none, but I prefer restoring ALL the fluid to new. Thanks for watching!
For a transmission drop/filter, do you think valvoline max atf is sufficient, or should I buy motorcraft mercon lv?
Maxlife is compatible as a partial or complete substitute. It can mix with or replace Mercon LV. I wouldn't hesitate to use it. IMHO
YOU COULD TAKE A AIR HOSE BLOW ALL DIRT AWAY FROM DIPSTICK AREA AND PAN BEFORE STARTING THE JOB.
Porque motivo puede ser a hacer lo cambio de primera a segunda golpea
I drained about 6qts of fluid when I did this fluid change.
What is your thought on installing a drain plug in the pan?
I think a drain plug would be great, along with a conventional dipstick!
Very helpful videos. Why do the filter change before the complete flush? seems that your running old fluid through the new filter during your next video (on fluid exchange)?
Thanks for the question. The two services should be done back-to-back to avoid just what you're talking about. In these two videos, I showed them as separate services, but actually did them together and used the footage from the flush video to show checking level in the filter video. The filter in the pan is the initial suction point in the fluid circuit. The cooler return line is the end of the circuit before returning to the pan. If you replace the filter, add fluid, disconnect the return line and begin the flush service, the filter will never see dirty fluid. You will be pumping new fluid into the pan while you discharge the waste fluid out of the return line. Hope that makes sense.
So I drained about 8. Refilled about 7. Warmed it up and topped it off with most of the 8th. It's perfect with the motor OFF and 200 degrees as per the dash gauge. The DROPS off the stick with the motor running. What should I do? 2015 V8 with 60K.
The vehicle has to be running when you check the level to ensure an accurate reading, sounds like you're low on fluid.
Why add 4 1/2 quarts trans fluid and then flush it? Thanks very much and thanks for the gasket #, filter# torque # etc. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
The pan is the initial suction point for the circuit. If you add the 4.5 quarts and then hook up for the flush before starting the vehicle, the fluid in the pan will provide a clean push through the rest of the circuit. If you didn't have fluid in the pan when beginning the flush, it would just be pumping air.
The filter you removed had two inlets, the one you installed had only 1. I ordered the ft-188 which apparently fits the transmission, however it is clearly not a 1:1 match. Does anyone know if Ford approved the switch to only the single inlet? I'm guessing the second inlet was redundant and therefore removed?
I think he installed the wrong one. Should have been 1:1 no substitution
Love my F150. Needed a new transmission at 100,300 miles. No warranty. When does it need fluid levels checks again? 😂😂😂
Why not Mercon SP? I've heard Ford is going back to SP because of transmission failures. Does anyone know?
Might be for the 10 speeds, the 6r80 is pretty stout so I can't imagine it needing anything crazy. Most full synthetic atf's should work just fine.
Doing my 2016 F-150 trans filter and fluid. The filter I pulled out half too outlets. I noticed on the video that The filterl that's your replacing with has one outlet so is the one that I bought. That kind confused me. But I also noticed that the rubber piece for the second outlet is missing on a transmission valve body. So I'm going to discard it. Wonder why there is a change in design
There are some differences. If your truck has the start/stop (turns itself off at stop lights) it has a second electric fluid pump to keep pressure charged for the restart. Buying one from the dealer by VIN is the safest bet to get the right filter.
@@MasterJacks The one that's I actually need is motorcraft FT-200. Has a dual outlet. Thank you for your reply.
Thanks for the info on the two Inlet ports and also the backup camera video they were both great help
My 2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost filter has two outlet ports. I am having a hard time finding it locally at non-Ford dealer places and actually ordered the wrong one based on this video and Amazon fitment data. Note in the video it looks like there are two holes in the valve body for the filter outlets just like mine. But the video shows a filter with only one outlet port being installed. Did the author install the wrong filter??? I believe the correct filter is Motorcraft FT200 (FL3Z--7A098-B) but cant be sure till I get my hands on one. Unfortunately, I may have to pay over $60 at the dealer for it. Not sure what is going on with these filters.
Someone else ran into this, I'll copy and paste what they found, maybe it's applicable to your situation: "MasterJacks so I did some research and found out that my truck which is a 2016 F150 2.7 ecoboost with the start/stop feature actually has two fluid pumps integrated on it’s 6r80 which is different from other F150s with a 6r80 transmission. One pump is driven by the output shaft of the engine and the other pump is driven by an electric motor that engages when the truck is in start/stop mode. The reason for this second pump is to keep the valve body armed with fluid when the truck shuts off to prevent harsh shifting when the truck turns back on. The correct filter I found out for my truck is an FT-200 filter with two outlets that feeds fluid to both pumps. All this high tech stuff is starting to get on my nerves. Lol!"
ua-cam.com/video/siA5txb7Y2w/v-deo.html&ab_channel=BOSSC351%27sProductions
Just did the fluid and filter at 90k with motorcraft Mercon LV as called for ( verified multiple times it was the original factory Fluid and what Ford says to use).
Fluid looked about like in the video ( brownish), smelled bad but not burnt.
The fluid on the stick when hot/running is right where it should be.
All seemed to go well, transmission shifts normally but "seems" to be a little louder, slightly higher rpms...could be my imagination?
But here's the problem. Backing out of the driveway as it gets steep at the end when I take my foot off the accelerator the truck starts rolling back forward down the driveway. If you give it gas it starts reversing again. When I say rolls, I mean freely like a manual transmission with the clutch pressed down. It will go like a roller coaster not just creeping along for a few feet. It also will do this in the forward gear facing uphill.
I guessed maybe I got the wrong filter so ordered another oem filter before pulling the pan again.
New filter exact same as the original I pulled out to begin with. ( It's a 2012 expedition, doesn't have auto start, the original filter has just one uptube like the replacement, measured the inlet to make sure it's the same length).
Put it all back with the 2nd ford oem replacement filter, made sure there was no orange or blue ring from an old filter stuck up in the intake as some suggest can happen, and no change....
What could be causing this?
Driving seems normal except "maybe" slightly higher rpms and it does seem to be laboring a bit more at idle but I'm not sure.
I've read hundreds of blog posts warning that changing fluid on higher mileage transmissions will screw them up and make them slip, but the actual driving is as smooth as ever, it's just the hill rollback issue as far as I can tell.
I live in a small town with just one repair shop. They quoted me $300 to do the drain and filter change a few weeks ago and I said I'd do it myself for $80 ( Ive done pan drops / changes back in the day 5 or 6 times so I'm not out of my element). I really don't want to take it in there and have them get that smug attitude for not paying them in the first place, and worse decide to "teach me a lesson" with an outrageous bill to figure out why it's doing this! Lol
Any HELP will be appreciated!
Are you sure the filter isn't double gasketed and that it is fully pressed in? If it's losing pressure the reverse roller clutches may be losing pressure and not holding.
Also, did you verify the fluid level with the engine running?
@@MasterJacks yes, I triple checked it's bare metal in the uptake and the orange gasket is still on the original. I wiped it nice and dry up in there and pressed it firmly in. Tried wiggling and pulling on it, it wasn't going to fall out.
Fluid is at the full hot mark running.
@@DC-nj9gw How many of the the 90k miles are yours? I'm wondering how long the vehicle has been reversing out of the same driveway. It could be it was slipping before the flush, but the old fluid had friction material suspended in it. The new clean fluid may have revealed an issue you didn't know you had 🤷♂️.
@@MasterJacks I've had it 25k miles. Never had an issue or needed the brake at the top of the driveway.
As I said it's weird because it seems to be fine otherwise.
I just took it up a steep hill at various speeds and it charged right up. Got to 30 mph on a big hill and just took my foot off the gas and let it coast to a stop, then it started backward downhill in a freefall, would have gotten up to 50 mph going backwards if I'd let it.
I knew mechanics in the past that put the old fluid back in high mileage vehicles if they had to drain it for the reason you said.
I saved the original fluid in clean containers, but I don't really want to put it back in. It would be diluted with some of the new in any case, but what are my options lol. I was hoping someone had run into this before and it was something simple that needed to be done.
If I give it a little bit of gas to get the rpms up it will hold place in the driveway like it did before the fluid replacement.
I'm toying with the idea of draining a quart or two out and putting in some type f to see if that does anything if no other ideas come up. I recall guys doing that back in high school.
Hey, I have a 2009 ford f150 equipped with a 6R80 transmission. When I changed the transmission fluid pan. I did not use threadlocker for all the screws. It has been 2 weeks with no leaking. I just ordered the threadlocker, should I take the screws out one by one and put threadlocker on them? Thanks
No, you're good without it. It doesn't come with threadlocker from the factory or call for it. Some manufacturers use it, and I like it because the bolts are low torque, but I wouldn't take them back out to redo it.
@@MasterJacks Thanks a lot. I will take your advice, do it next time, and not take them back out.
is it the same for lincoln navagtor
Depends on the year and transmission in your Navigator. This is the 6-speed transmission. If yours has the start/stop feature (vehicles turns itself off at stoplights), then the filter part number will be different.
I did a pan drop on my truck and saw that the old filter ft-188 was different from the motor craft one I ordered. The old filter had 2 outlet holes going to the valve body and the fresh new filter only has one outlet. Is this an issue? Because I saw the hole on your valve body which you just placed the filter on it that only had the single outlet.
That big hole in the middle is the fluid return for the torque converter/cooler. It's a big hole because it's low pressure (gravity). The other hole the filter neck plugs into is the suction port. The old style filter may have been draining some of the return fluid right into the filter. With the new filter not having a hole on top, it's draining around the filter to the bottom pickup port. Short answer, the new filter is fine and will filter the fluid. Great observation!
MasterJacks so I did some research and found out that my truck which is a 2016 F150 2.7 ecoboost with the start/stop feature actually has two fluid pumps integrated on it’s 6r80 which is different from other F150s with a 6r80 transmission. One pump is driven by the output shaft of the engine and the other pump is driven by an electric motor that engages when the truck is in start/stop mode. The reason for this second pump is to keep the valve body armed with fluid when the truck shuts off to prevent harsh shifting when the truck turns back on. The correct filter I found out for my truck is an FT-200 filter with two outlets that feeds fluid to both pumps. All this high tech stuff is starting to get on my nerves. Lol!
@@austinschroeder2568 nice work chasing that down. Good to know! Thanks for sharing
@@austinschroeder2568 your the MAN BRO
Just did something similar (2010 f-150 5.4 2wd, replaced the bulkhead connector) now it will not shift into any gear and had the wrench in the dash. Any ideas?
I may get the name wrong, but UA-cam FordTechmakuloco. He has a video on the 6r80 trans and speaks about the bulkhead connector and has committed on the wrench display on the dash. I maybe wrong but it may be that you did not fully set the bulkhead or the connector. However, don't take my word, watch the Ford tech guys UA-cam video. Hope it helps. Good look. I may be changing mine in the near future.
Everyone keep in mind that there are 2 different filters for the 6R80. One has a 1 inch pickup tube and the other has 1.5 inch I believe. If you get the wrong one the transmission will not go into any gear. One part number is FT188 and the other is FT171. If you're not sure which one then pull out your old filter and use another car or have someone take you to the parts store and compare the length of the pickup tube. Most auto parts stores have both filters in stock so you can compare it with yours.
1
I just changed the bulk head connector sleeve on my 2010 yesterday. One possible reason for the wrench light could be touching the pins inside the bulk head too much. They are sensitive to static discharge. I touched mine on accident a couple times but haven't encountered an issue yet. Also make sure the sleeve and connecter is absolutely locked in place. Mine was tough to get in all the way with the new O rings. I lubed them and had to press it very hard before I could push the locking mechanism inside the pan to lock it all. I've even seen guys have to cal the end of the sleeve and use a pry bar
I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 Triton six speed automatic. How do I know if the tranny is a 6R60 or a 6R80 or if there is any difference at all? Thanks.
I believe the 6R80 has a higher torque rating with an upgraded torque converter (maybe some other internals too). The procedure for the filter change is the same, but the fluid capacity might be slightly different.
MasterJacks Thank you so much for your reply 👍
Helpful video. Thank you for posting. My 2015 2.7l is within the narrow build months that require the FT 200 filter. Dropped pan and replaced filter. I've got perfect reading when cold, but the stick is completely dry when hot. I'm pretty nervous....got any ideas?
Transmission fluid should be check at normal operating temperatures and while the engine is running. If it reads low add more fluid
Clay Thompson did you ever figure it out? Also for the cold reading, is it at the bottom or top of the crosshatched A area?
Now I understand why dealers charge what they do for that service.
I followed this to a T and have harsh shifts and metal grinding with vibraiton. Did I mess up on the reading of the dip stick?
That doesn't sound good. It's pissible the fluid level is off. I'd also verify the transmission filter based on the VIN with the dealer. Some people have commented that the filters are different depending on if the truck has the start/stop feature or not.
@@MasterJacks 2013 expo so no start stop. This is WIX which is the exact same fitment as OEM.
@@MeliorIlle ya, they make good filters. Sorry to hear you're having trouble, hopefully you get to the bottom of it without too much trouble.
@@MasterJacks So they told me that two manolds/manofolds(?) broke even though I did the fluid and filter change correctly. To me, that doesn't make any sense. The fluid did not look brown or black, for a 110K vehicle I could tell it had been changed at least once or twice before. I have read and heard about the freak occasion of seals being opened with fresh fluid which causes congestion/blockage in other areas, damage to parts of the transmission that were working fine, but this was not the pre-scenario that matched with those situations. If I did everything correctly and the fluid wasn't in bad shape I don't understand what happened.
Maybe whatever broke was coincidental with the timing of the service, some kind of road hazard 🤷♂️. Not sure what manifolds they're referring to unless they're talking about the cooler lines. Those aren't touched with a filter change unless you did a flush too and they got buggered up on the disconnect.
What these be the same steps to take with the 16 5.0 l
Yes, same transmission.
@@MasterJacks thank you! Your videos are awesome and very informational best videos I found
@@mikek2824 thanks!
would it be okay to use something like valvoline lv (recommended but not licensed for mercon lv) and just do a drain and fill but not flush, or would it be bad if the two fluids mix?
If the bottle says it's compatible, it's fine to mix
Arent you supposed to start the vehicle and run fluid out from the hose to the cooler?
That's called a flush service. I have another video showing that process. Thanks for the question.
@@MasterJacks Sorry, thank you for clarifying. Found it.
My friend has a 2012 mustang with this transmission. I've heard mixed answers of some people saying they drained out 12 quarts and others said they only got out 4. I'd love to know before we buy fluid so I don't get too much/too little
12 qts is definitely more than the pan will hold. That number sounds more like total system capacity (cooler, torque converter, pan, circuits). Replacing the filter only drains what's in the pan. The mustang could have a different pan than the F150, but 4 qts has to be pretty close. Maybe buy 5 to be on the safe side. My 2 cents, thanks for watching.
@@MasterJacks thanks for the quick and useful response! 5 quarts if is. I'll post an update once we compete the job
I get 6 to 6 1/2 on my 2011 F 150 and my 2014 Mustang. I put a drain plug in both of them. Also Dorman makes a replacement pan with a good drain plug already installed for about 40 dollars on E bay , I recommend installing this pan rather than installing a leaky add on drain plug !
@@thomasdaum1927 I got 10+ out of my 6.2 2011 F150. Let it sit 3 days, about 1 qt came out when I opened it. I also drained the cooler. 2 gal milk containers and almost 2 1 liter bottles of soda + some spillage. Maybe it was overfilled?
@@alb12345672 The 2011 F-150 , 2014 Mustang and the 2016 F-150 every 10,000 miles I drain out 6 1/2 qts ( that’s what comes out ) and replace 6 1/2 qts of Mercon LV ! I get it for a good price on E Bay. All the transmission people say to only use Mercon LV in the 6 speed Ford automatic !…..
My truck has 147k miles I bought it used I’m not sure if the person who had it before me serviced the filter and fluid . My question is should I change the fluid and filter now or not mess with it since now since there is so many miles on it ?
Ford's recommended service interval for the automatic transmission fluid and filter is every150,000 miles. You should be good.
@@MasterJacks good to Change it now or wait
If it were mine, I'd do it now then every 60k thereafter
150k miles !!!! Wow….I must have missed that part on my 2017 coyote. With 118k I’ve already had two fluid flushes and one new transmission filter. I never trusted the
Manufacturers suggestions on service intervals….they want you to buy parts or new vehicles.
How many quarts to fill when only doing a filter change?
Ford says you need 3.5 qts in the pan before starting it. After that you need to check it using the dipstick while the vehicle is running to make sure it is within the range on the stick.
@@MasterJacks ok thank you
Mine took 8.5
@@DuffyGabi How many did you end up using? Also for the cold reading, is it at the bottom or top of the crosshatched A area?
I just bought a 2017 120k miles not sure if fluid has ever been changed. I’ve heard Horror stories of people changing their transmission fluid at high mileage and then all of a sudden the transmission completely goes out so I don’t know what the hell to do
The horror stories come from people servicing transmissions that are already bad. If the clutches are already slipping, replacing the fluid can make the condition seem worse. The old fluid has a bunch of friction material suspended in it actually helping the clutches to grab. When you put new fluid in, the slipping condition is revealed or "made worse". I would pull the fluid level indicator and visually check the fluid. If it isn't black and you currently don't have any shifting issues, I wouldn't hesitate to service it. Your transmission life will be a lot shorter leaving it in than refreshing the fluid and filter. Ford's fluid exchange interval is actually 150k. I would suggest between evey 30-60k depending on how much towing it gets. Just my opinion if your looking for one. Thanks for watching.
Mantinance Schedule says "every 50.000 km".
Will it hurt if done before? at 40.000 km in official Ford dealer.
It won't hurt anything to do it early.
@@MasterJacks Thanks. I change ATF and filter every 40.000 km, at dealer.
It´s a shame some companies (asian ones) say "ATF is eternal" and even don´t include a dipstick !!!
I did this procedure on my 2015 F150 and my truck now whines, gets louder with acceleration any idea what it could be ? It would be noticeable on start up but I started driving around and now it only happens when I accelerate above a certain rpm
If it coinsides directly with the service, I would definitely check things out before it gets worse. Check the fluid level and verify you have the right filter for your VIN. Some of these have the auto start/stop feature and require a different filter. If both of those are good, you may need to take it to a shop for diagnosis. Best of luck!
I think it's a great Job, I do disagree with the use of lock tight, There will be a time to come when you will never get a bolt out and one more thing, a lot of great fluids on the market that meet and exceed the Ford Specs. at half the price.
which fluids in particular are you talking about?
Fanks !
On my 2016 V8 I haven't changed out the transmission fluid since I bought it at low miles. but I don't run it terribly hard. I'm sitting at 141k, and I'm very uneasy about changing it out at this point of its life. worried about it slipping.
Also really mad that ford took away the dipstick for the transmission.
I would personally feel fine doing the service at your mileage. Ford recommends the service be done at 150k, so you're ahead of schedule!
@MasterJacks that gives me some reassurance. Last "truck" I had sport trac never changed it until I did and it was game over but I did it at much higher and I beat the the crap out of that thing.
@@MasterJacks What's your opinion on Mercon LV fluid substitutes? I recently found an LV ATF by Pennzoil in my area that says it's officially approved by Ford. Tried asking Ford Motor about it directly but obviously that was a pointless waste of time...I've only used the Valvoline products in the past which worked fine for me but I don't know Jack about this Pennzoil Platinum....Thank You!!
@@bradoshaholmes2867I'm of the opinion that frequency of service has greater impact on component life than fluid subtleties. I wouldn't hesitate to substitute the Mercon for an equivalent Valvoline or Pennzoil, IMHO.
I have a 2015 f150 with this same transmission, it has 160k miles and never been serviced. Is it too late to have the fluid changed on it?
I personally wouldn't have any issue exchanging it. Ford recommends the procedure at 150k.
@@MasterJacks every mechanic says it’s better not to touch the transmission but online says to service it so idk everything contradicting
The real question is, what Is the condition of the current fluid and transmission? If the transmission has nice positive shifts and is otherwise healthy, it will only benefit from new fluid. If the transmission is symptomatic, and the current fluid is extremely dark and smells horrible, then putting in new fluid with refreshed friction modifiers can unmask pre-existing conditions.
I've replaced horrible fluid before, and had zero problems with the transmission after, to the point that something else failed on the vehicle before the transmission.
My experience has been a transmission with healthy fluid always outlasts a transmission with bad fluid.
I guess do what you feel is best with your understanding of the situation. 🤷♂️
A 2016 with 100000k on it already?? Thats a lot of miles
You only need to drop the pan and change the filter. Flushing all the old fluid out will not make the unit last longer. Before you knock me. I have videos of me rebuilding a transmission.
Nobody put locktite on transmission bolts.
For a full fresh system, I recommend replace older ATF and filter, drive 10.000 km and replaceit again, so there weill be a new MIX of fresh ATF.
@@supermasterPIK You are wasting fluid. Mixing old fluid with new was never a problem until someone made the first flush machine. People create problems that don't exist so they can sell you stuff you don't need.
@Motorcitymadman People who know how a transmission work. Will never say the word flush. AFT has change but it still will not flow through a dirty filter.
Be careful spraying brake clean on exhaust. If that exhaust is hot it can cause the brake clean to create phosgene gas and be deadly or irreversible organ damage, doesn’t take much of the gas to do it. Happens frequently with people using brake clean to clean welded parts.
2016 f150 ecoboost 300k miles and never changed the transmission fluid.
Why would you do this before a flush and waste all that new fluid?
If you flushed it first, you'd be dumping new fluid from the pan to do the filter. It actually uses less fluid to do the filter first as long as you don't start the vehicle until you're ready to begin the flush.
Why oh why don't they install a drain plug. Next time i'll put a small hose into the filler and suck most of the fluid out. What a mess.
Ford doesn’t say flush the transmission.
ford wants vehicles in there service shops
@@timmywilliams9838 No Ford want you to do it the right way. Drop the pan and change the filter.
I did mine at 75K on my 2015 today.....It needed it earlier IMO,fluid smelled more than I would like and was too dark..I added a drain plug also.. 6.5 quarts it used with a new filter.. I used that electric ebay pump which was slow AF .Having no dipstick was a real dipshit move on ford part
How the f did you add a drain plug to your tranny fluid on a 2015? 😳😳😳😳
@@MPBADASS90 Easy,you can buy a B&M drain plug kit for 10 bucks ,or do it with an AN bulkhead and fitting
Wait. I'm at 84K. I thought it was 80K. 5.0 screw '17. 🤔
Ford does not recommend flushing their transmissions. Drop the pan and change the filter only.
f150 service manual procedure...
General Specification
NOTE: Transmission fluids are not interchangeable. The use
of any other fluid or cleaning agents will cause internal
transmission damage.
Specification
/ The transmission fluid should be changed every 241, 000 km (150, 000 mi) regardless of normal or special operating conditions.
Transmission Fluid Exchange
Special Tool(s) / General Equipment
Fluid Exchanger
Materials / Name Specification / Motorcraft ® MERCON ® LV Automatic Transmission FluidXT-10-QLVC MERCON ® LVWSS-M2C938-A
Flushing
NOTE: Use transmission fluid specific for this transmission.
Do not use any supplemental transmission fluid additives or cleaning agents. The use of these products can cause internal transmission components to fail, which will affect the operation of the transmission.
1. Connect the Fluid Exchanger to the transmission fluid cooler tube after the transmission fluid
cooler on the return tube. This helps remove any foreign material trapped in the transmission fluid coolers. Use the General Equipment: Fluid Exchanger
2. Perform the transmission fluid exchange using the Fluid Exchanger.
3.Follow the manufacturer's instructions included with the machine. Use the General
Equipment: Fluid Exchanger Material: Motorcraft ® MERCON ® LV Automatic
4. Once the transmission fluid exchange is completed, disconnect the Fluid Exchanger. Reconnect any disconnected transmission fluid cooler tubes. Use the General Equipment: Fluid Exchanger
5. Check the transmission fluid level. Refer to: Transmission Fluid Level Check.
@@rogerthat8958 That is not from Ford.
@@rogerthat8958 Dude upload a video of you working on a car before you try to school someone like me.
@@blackericdenice ...wow, you're right. Your videos give you so much credibility....LMAO...not worth my time
@@rogerthat8958 Said the man with no videos. I've notice people with no videos have been working on cars for 30 years.
They should have never made the switch to these shitty 10 speeds they are loud and to damn jerky and lost feel like i just threw 45k out the window and dont think the longevity of the the 2019 f150 is going to be there
Can't believe dumbass's wait almost 100k miles before a fluid change.... transmission will be toast by 120k-130k guaranteed.... FLUID AND FILTER IS LIKE $60 AT MOST SO JUST CHANGE IT.... Technicians aren't going to recommend it cus its messy and doesnt pay shit... would rather have you come back sooner for a trans rebuild then pay to keep your car out of the shop by correct maintenance...
I bought this vehicle with 93k. Fluid was definitely due. Thanks for watching.
Trans services are gravy. Technicians take easy money maintenance over rebuilds everyday of the week.