@@Vp09Iphone the only way you can fix it is by removing the motherboard and replacing the one capacitor the fails and causes the cluster not to come on, or send it out to a service company who fixes these and they charge you $100 to do the work. The only difficult part is removing it yourself, you don’t need a whole lot of experience on how to wrench to remove it. It’s pretty straight forward, UA-cam is your friend on this! There’s plenty of videos on how to remove it on here 😁 Best of luck!
@EscoWanders I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system). Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online. While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue! Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch. Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
Thank you, so very much. I’m borrowing my friend’s vehicle and the display pulled this jive on me. Your workaround did the job, for now. Man, you saved me entirely too much stress. Thanks, again.
Hi, I recently got my car battery changed at Toyota. Drove it home.. later than evening I went to get groceries and my dashboard was completely off. The only thing I can’t do is hit the unlock button because my key fob isn’t working. (Costs $500 at Toyota to get it fixed and not doing that) trust me, I’ve changed batteries and the key fob just doesn’t signal my car (smart key) so with that being said.. is there another way to do it without pressing key fob? Thanks!!
You need to locate the 12v battery in the hatch area. It's located on the passenger side under a small access panel. Once located, there will be a RED cover (Unless it's missing) over the positive terminal of the battery, remove the RED cover and you should see TWO plastic connectors, one being large and white and the other to the right of that one, a smaller plastic connector. Remove BOTH connectors from the battery, wait for a few minutes, and then plug them back in. This should solve your issue, if not then idk...hope this helps!? In case you can't find what I'm talking about, watch this video, he shows you what I'm referring to. ua-cam.com/video/3X0FgN_TuP8/v-deo.htmlsi=2b3-pGt0niaw1hFu
Honestly, the real fix is to take the dash apart and replace the cluster. That alone is expensive just for labor unless you do it yourself. Clusters can be found on Ebay, most with program your mileage before shipping it to you.
I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system). Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online. While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue! Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch. Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
It's the best car I've ever owned, but be careful with buying used. I've owned mine for 19 years (longest ever) and started to have some problems around 4 years ago when I first needed to replace the hybrid battery. I replaced it was a rebuilt one that lasted 3.5 years and then replaced it with another rebuild one earlier this year. I also needed to replace things that wear out over the last 19 years like door locks, headlight bulbs, both rear light assemblies because the LEDs went out, and the multi CD player. I still get around 42-44 mpg. When new it would get around 50-52 mpg. I currently have around 285,000 miles on it, but I've been ready for a new car for the last few years now. I ordered a new Prius Prime March of 2023 and still waiting. In hoping by the end of the year.🤞 BTW I had the disappearing dash thing happen three times since the beginning of 2023. . I recommend buying the newest Prius you can and hopefully from a single owner or from a dealer with a good certification process and warranty.
This works for me. Solution is at end at about 2:50 ( reminding myself for next time )
Glad it worked for you!
Thanks a lot. Short, sweet, and right to the point.
So far this was the easiest solution that I have seen. I do not think I can find anything better.
Thanks, glad it worked for you!
It took me several attempts, but this method finally worked! Tremendous relief .. thank you, thank you!!
Glad it worked for you!
Thank you! Have had to use this twice in three days, but so far it’s been the only thing that’s worked.
Glad it worked for you!
Genios! Just bought a 2009 Prius yesterday, cluster wasn’t on right after I changed the battery, I did your trick and vuala! Thank you man !!!!!!
I just bought my 07 like 3 days ago and it did this to me.
@@Vp09Iphone the only way you can fix it is by removing the motherboard and replacing the one capacitor the fails and causes the cluster not to come on, or send it out to a service company who fixes these and they charge you $100 to do the work. The only difficult part is removing it yourself, you don’t need a whole lot of experience on how to wrench to remove it. It’s pretty straight forward, UA-cam is your friend on this! There’s plenty of videos on how to remove it on here 😁 Best of luck!
Glad it helped you out!
@EscoWanders I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system).
Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online.
While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue!
Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch.
Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
Methods I’ve used before didn’t work and this one did! Thank you! 🔥
Glad it helped!
THANK YOU! Worked perfect, first time! 🙌
Glad it worked for you!
Wow, it worked once I turned the headlights on with the door open! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you, so very much. I’m borrowing my friend’s vehicle and the display pulled this jive on me. Your workaround did the job, for now. Man, you saved me entirely too much stress. Thanks, again.
You're welcome!
Thanks 👍 really worked and such a easy fix
Glad it helped
Worked for me! Thank you
Glad it worked for you!
This actually helped thank god!
Glad it worked for you!
Thank You! This WORKED!!!
Glad it worked!
Bless you. The brake and unlock worked!❤️ Hallelujah.
Glad it worked for you!
Dude, you're a genius 👏!
Wow, thanks!
DITTO😊
Lord thank youuuuuuuu, the only thing that worked!
Glad it worked!
Thank you! This worked!
You're welcome!
the best I did tried everything that is the only one it worked thank you
Glad it worked for you!
Glad it worked for you!
Wowww thank you brother ❤🎉😮
You are very welcome
Thanks a lot it works great
You're welcome!
Works! Thanks 😊
Glad it worked!
Not sure how you figured this out but it works
Glad it worked for you!
I love you sr
Glad it worked!
Awesome go around! Seems like it should be a recall though
Thank you very much 👍
You are very welcome
Worked
I'm glad!
Money! Worked first try.
Glad this worked for you!
thank you
You're welcome!
Once done with that simply always open your drivers door before pushing the off button. wait a moment then leave. three months so far no issues
Nice!
Gracias me funcionó
Glad it worked for you!
Hi, I recently got my car battery changed at Toyota. Drove it home.. later than evening I went to get groceries and my dashboard was completely off. The only thing I can’t do is hit the unlock button because my key fob isn’t working. (Costs $500 at Toyota to get it fixed and not doing that) trust me, I’ve changed batteries and the key fob just doesn’t signal my car (smart key) so with that being said.. is there another way to do it without pressing key fob?
Thanks!!
You need to locate the 12v battery in the hatch area. It's located on the passenger side under a small access panel. Once located, there will be a RED cover (Unless it's missing) over the positive terminal of the battery, remove the RED cover and you should see TWO plastic connectors, one being large and white and the other to the right of that one, a smaller plastic connector. Remove BOTH connectors from the battery, wait for a few minutes, and then plug them back in. This should solve your issue, if not then idk...hope this helps!?
In case you can't find what I'm talking about, watch this video, he shows you what I'm referring to.
ua-cam.com/video/3X0FgN_TuP8/v-deo.htmlsi=2b3-pGt0niaw1hFu
🎉🎉🎉🎉
Do you have the key FOB plugged into the car while doing this?
No, I had it in my hand so I could press the lock/unlock buttons.
Thanks, it worked for a while but it shuts off after a couple of days did anyone find a permanent solution?
Honestly, the real fix is to take the dash apart and replace the cluster. That alone is expensive just for labor unless you do it yourself. Clusters can be found on Ebay, most with program your mileage before shipping it to you.
Replace a very inexpensive capacitor and up it's value to 220uf and while you're there test the adjacent capacitors to be on the safe side.
Thank you guys!!
I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system).
Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online.
While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue!
Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch.
Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
Are Prius really worth all this trouble?I'm car shopping for some fuel efficient cars
Yes
It's the best car I've ever owned, but be careful with buying used. I've owned mine for 19 years (longest ever) and started to have some problems around 4 years ago when I first needed to replace the hybrid battery. I replaced it was a rebuilt one that lasted 3.5 years and then replaced it with another rebuild one earlier this year. I also needed to replace things that wear out over the last 19 years like door locks, headlight bulbs, both rear light assemblies because the LEDs went out, and the multi CD player.
I still get around 42-44 mpg. When new it would get around 50-52 mpg. I currently have around 285,000 miles on it, but I've been ready for a new car for the last few years now. I ordered a new Prius Prime March of 2023 and still waiting. In hoping by the end of the year.🤞
BTW I had the disappearing dash thing happen three times since the beginning of 2023.
.
I recommend buying the newest Prius you can and hopefully from a single owner or from a dealer with a good certification process and warranty.
Halal olsun sene
Which unlock did you hit???
The unlock button on the key fob.
Halal olsun sene