I just want to give a massive thank you for this video! Not only did it help with repairing the washing machine, it also got me brownie points with my SO in finding a piece of jewellery she had been missing for over 10 years. I wouldnt have known where to start without your help. The clear instructions and no nonsense or unnecessary guff made it my first and only search. Keep up the great work
Massive thanks. Thanks to your video, i was able to replace the pump of my washing machine. In my case, i added an extra step and took out the drum from the top, and found someone blocking water going down. Replacing the pump and removing the blocking bit fixed my issue.
I tried so hard but couldn’t pull out the little plug that goes into the pump but I didn’t need to anyway. I unscrewed just the 2 big screws ( not the 3rd one) and pulled off the short cream plug (both ends) which then enabled me to pull out the fibre that had caused the blockage. Thank you so much for your video. If I can do it as a 62 yo female with no tech experience, then anyone can. Thanks for your informative video, you saved me hundreds $ in not having to call a technician
Gidday Dan, Thanks for your beaut (neat) videos. We have an Error 37, Pump Blocked. I did the top clean and got some debris out of the machine, but nothing got through the filter-box. I then followed your pump removal instructions. The coil measures 91·7Ω, the rotor turns with that curious lumpy motion, but 240v connected to the coil will not spin the motor. It just hums. I've only done it for a couple of seconds at a time-I don't want to burn out the motor. Two houses on our block, and no working washing machine. Dire straits! Thanks for your help, Alan.
If you have the pump in this video then you wont burn it out by running it stalled, it doesn't have a fan to cool it and also it has a self-resetting overheat if things were a problem. The "lumpy" turning you mention is normal on these shaded pole motors. Have you taken the pump housing off to make sure there isn't something wrapped around the bottom of the rotor? If nothing and it still wont start then sounds like you need a new pump.
The motor part also can jam due to contamination build up on the rotor magnet from washing greasy mechanic's clothes or clothes dirty with metal grinding dust. The rotor can be removed from its housing by using a flat screwdriver to pry out the plastic disc under the impeller. Beware of the thrust washer at the end of the shaft. The stator pole piece can slide off the rotor housing.
@@robertmahood9895 The washer will fail to pump out water. Possibly intermittently at first. The stalled pump way or may not make a sound. It will feel warm after a few minutes if it's being powered.
Fantastic Video! Was easy to follow. Love how not only it shows you how to take it apart but also how to put it back together. I was able to fix my washing machine and save myself money on calling a technician out. Highly Recommend watching if your washing machine isn't draining/spinning.
Excellent instructions, thank you for taking the time to share this with us. The only bit I could not duplicate was removing the electrical plug from the pump with the screwdriver lifting the tab, but I managed to take the pump apart with the cable still attached, under the machine. My machine is the WA80T65GW1 to the lead looks a little different to the one in this video with two wires visible near the connector.
Hello, Thanks for your videos @- they are excellent and really easy to follow. I have a fisher and Paykel fabric smart top loader and have removed pump and now trying to reassemble. My machine has another attachment near the pump with a black angled hose . I am having trouble putting it all back together and didn’t take a photo before disassembling it. I have searched for photos and instructions but have been unable to find any . I was hoping you may be able to provide advice pls? Many thanks
Lift the top as per this video here: ua-cam.com/video/J8VowhURszI/v-deo.html Then One at a time remove each suspension rod: Lift top bracket out of the corner of wrap. Then reach down and press red ring out of cup in outer bowl, then lower rod down and slide sideways out of cup. Refit rod removed in reverse order then remove next rod. Do front right and left rear first, front left will have a spring yo need to swap over, right rear is hooked around wires at top and a support for hose mid way.
yes if it is draining but slow then it can start to spin with enough water to drag on the bottom of the drum, which is sensed as suds lock. Is very rare though.
@@motrepairs brother, inspired by your video I was able to remove the pump. Looked a bit different to model on your video (mine wa1068g1) amd straigjt away I saw a massive amount of fluff sticking out. Took cover off and removed 2 handfuls of it. Worst thing was the water that poured out despite bailing as much as I could. Got into the plastic base and I had to painstakingly dry it so mould wouldnt grow. Anyway its all back togethet amd workinh a treat. Thanks!
If its the pump in this video not the other one then they can get worn bushings and struggle to start, which may cause a pulsing. A partial block would still let some water through so if you have nothing coming then try blowing back through the hose, you may have a coin in the elbow just after the pump or something.
It’s wont clear itself. Does it sound like the pump is running or is it just humming. If pump is running but not draining you could try and take the inner bowl out and see if something blocking the pump inlet.
Hi. Thank you for your video. It has been most helpful. I have a WA70T60GW1 with the new style drain pump. Unfortunately the pump needs replacing. I understand the original part has been superseded by new part number 42960P. I have received the replacement part but the wire connectors are different and the old plug cannot possibly connect to the new part. Have they sent me the wrong part or do I need to make a joining loom?
You should have also received a couple of plastic insulators in the box, and a piece of instruction paper. You need to remove the two individual terminals from plastic moulding and put insulators on them then connect individually. You can either poke a small screwdriver in to release clips on plug to get terminals out or just cut it up with a Stanley knife as long as you don’t damage the wiring. Important to insulate both as both will be at mains voltage when pump not in use.
Hey i have one these machines and my apt dont have hook up so i have it going from the sink. But cant figure out how to get it to all thru cycle. It fills up then stops. There is nothing wrong with it. Just new to me.and being touch method we cant figure out how to make it spin out. Im particularly blind in one eye anyway.
If you have the 230V pump that looks like the one in this video that is fine. Is it stopping a beeping with a fault code? There are other faults that can stop it draining not just a faulty pump.
@@motrepairs reading fault code 37, pump blocked error, checked and can find no blockages or kinks in hose. It is the 230V one in video. Scratching head as to weather I buy new pump or new washing machine.
@@motrepairsso the pump is not draining only after the wash cycle, if I advance the cycle to rinse/spin it drains fine. When I checked for blockages I was able to spin the impeller manually.
Great video on how to clean out , my machine stops draining (just makes a humming noise then beeps and fault code) every so often (every third wash or so) turn off and put back to spin it and it works fine. I used the video and pulled it all apart no blockage or anything , any ideas?
Thank you for the videos. Is the washsmart top removed by removing screws from the back and removing the entire top section or is there secrets tabs i cant see. Thank you.
Yes these are a bit different from the earlier models. There are four screws at the back screwing down into the wrap (two with washers). Then the top deck moves forward about 1cm to unlock from the front. (hard to move and there isn't much free movement because of the wiring harness.) Then you can tilt the top deck back like normal.
Love your videos! I have a WA42T26GW1. The pump i ordered that was advertised as being compatible with this model was incrrect. The pump in this video is the kind my machine takes. What is that pumps model number?
Its best to order by the product code (5 digit and a letter) rather then the model. It will depend what country you are in as to what voltage the machine is, but in NZ/AUS its 421820P or 429640P
Hi i have this exact model in Taumarunui. It is giving the 40 error and wont spin. Could taking out the drum and cleaning help? or do i need to fix something else? is it an expensive fix? the machine is about 5-6 years old, Kia Ora for any advice.
Hi, see this Video here ua-cam.com/video/tpJ5bDDpKkA/v-deo.html There is a difference in getting the top deck off: There are four screws at the back screwing down into the wrap (two with washers). Then the top deck moves forward about 1cm to unlock from the front. (hard to move and there isn't much free movement because of the wiring harness.) Then you can tilt the top deck back like normal.
There are four screws at the back screwing down into the wrap (two with washers). Then the top deck moves forward about 1cm to unlock from the front. (hard to move and there isn't much free movement because of the wiring harness.) Then you can tilt the top deck back like normal.
The drain hose comes complete with the wiring harness and clips etc, so have to replace it all together unfortunately. Not something I'd advise to tackle without experience. If it is too short or has a hole in the part outside the machine you can extend it with either a FP Smart drive specific extension of you can get joining spigots cheaper.
Hi Dan - Thanks for your great videos of F and P Problems. I am working on my Neighbour's washing machine which is the same as above - Washsmart WA1068G1 It has a crazy problem when she turns it on the Front panel lights flick around a lot changing all the times on the display nonstop and it does not go. I have tried a reset and a heat gun on the push button board and main controller just in case of moisture but to no avail. - I was thinking either the main controller or pushbutton panel has gone but very expensive to just guess and purchase one or the other Just wondering if you have come across this problem b4 - Any info regarding this would be much appreciated. Thanks, Regards Brent
Find an answer to this? Mine flashed lights then skipped from start 9f was straight to spin. I plugged unplugged everything on motor controller and now it at least completes a wash but has rapid 3 beeps non stop through the wash.
If you mean the main motor rotor you just undo the nut/bolt in the centre and it will pull the rotor off with it. If its the later model with the bolt sometimes they come off without the rotor in which case you need to try a new bolt.
Yes you could if you are close to outside or have a very low drain. We usually use a hand pump from a kayak because often pumping into a sink nearby that isn't low enough to siphon.
I just want to give a massive thank you for this video! Not only did it help with repairing the washing machine, it also got me brownie points with my SO in finding a piece of jewellery she had been missing for over 10 years.
I wouldnt have known where to start without your help. The clear instructions and no nonsense or unnecessary guff made it my first and only search. Keep up the great work
Massive thanks. Thanks to your video, i was able to replace the pump of my washing machine. In my case, i added an extra step and took out the drum from the top, and found someone blocking water going down. Replacing the pump and removing the blocking bit fixed my issue.
I tried so hard but couldn’t pull out the little plug that goes into the pump but I didn’t need to anyway. I unscrewed just the 2 big screws ( not the 3rd one) and pulled off the short cream plug (both ends) which then enabled me to pull out the fibre that had caused the blockage. Thank you so much for your video. If I can do it as a 62 yo female with no tech experience, then anyone can. Thanks for your informative video, you saved me hundreds $ in not having to call a technician
You're welcome, and yes that plug is a tricky one!
Gidday Dan, Thanks for your beaut (neat) videos. We have an Error 37, Pump Blocked. I did the top clean and got some debris out of the machine, but nothing got through the filter-box. I then followed your pump removal instructions. The coil measures 91·7Ω, the rotor turns with that curious lumpy motion, but 240v connected to the coil will not spin the motor. It just hums. I've only done it for a couple of seconds at a time-I don't want to burn out the motor. Two houses on our block, and no working washing machine. Dire straits! Thanks for your help, Alan.
If you have the pump in this video then you wont burn it out by running it stalled, it doesn't have a fan to cool it and also it has a self-resetting overheat if things were a problem. The "lumpy" turning you mention is normal on these shaded pole motors. Have you taken the pump housing off to make sure there isn't something wrapped around the bottom of the rotor? If nothing and it still wont start then sounds like you need a new pump.
The motor part also can jam due to contamination build up on the rotor magnet from washing greasy mechanic's clothes or clothes dirty with metal grinding dust. The rotor can be removed from its housing by using a flat screwdriver to pry out the plastic disc under the impeller. Beware of the thrust washer at the end of the shaft. The stator pole piece can slide off the rotor housing.
Excellent advice! Exactly what the problem was hence I'm a Boilermaker 😊
@@robertmahood9895 The washer will fail to pump out water. Possibly intermittently at first. The stalled pump way or may not make a sound. It will feel warm after a few minutes if it's being powered.
Fantastic Video! Was easy to follow. Love how not only it shows you how to take it apart but also how to put it back together. I was able to fix my washing machine and save myself money on calling a technician out. Highly Recommend watching if your washing machine isn't draining/spinning.
Excellent instructions, thank you for taking the time to share this with us. The only bit I could not duplicate was removing the electrical plug from the pump with the screwdriver lifting the tab, but I managed to take the pump apart with the cable still attached, under the machine. My machine is the WA80T65GW1 to the lead looks a little different to the one in this video with two wires visible near the connector.
Yeah that plug is not a good design for removing!
Brilliant video. Really easy to follow and extremely helpful.
Thanks for the time you put in to these videos.
Excellent video instruction and thanks for taking the time to post. Was able to resolve the problem with my machine quickly. Really appreciate it! 🙂
Great video. Thank you. Would you have any idea of the terminal resistance on the 2020 F&P WA8560G1 (92263-A) pump? Ours is measuring 149 ohms.
Thanks soo much I now have a working washing machine 🙌
Hello,
Thanks for your videos @- they are excellent and really easy to follow.
I have a fisher and Paykel fabric smart top loader and have removed pump and now trying to reassemble. My machine has another attachment near the pump with a black angled hose . I am having trouble putting it all back together and didn’t take a photo before disassembling it. I have searched for photos and instructions but have been unable to find any . I was hoping you may be able to provide advice pls?
Many thanks
If you email me a photo I may be able to help you once I can see what you are talking about
Hi good video,
How to change the suspension rod kit on Fisher & Paykel 8.5 kg washsmart model: WA8560G1 ?
Thanks
Lift the top as per this video here: ua-cam.com/video/J8VowhURszI/v-deo.html
Then One at a time remove each suspension rod: Lift top bracket out of the corner of wrap. Then reach down and press red ring out of cup in outer bowl, then lower rod down and slide sideways out of cup. Refit rod removed in reverse order then remove next rod. Do front right and left rear first, front left will have a spring yo need to swap over, right rear is hooked around wires at top and a support for hose mid way.
Just saw your previous comments on the subject , many thanks!!!!
Will a partial block here cause a repetitive SUD LOC error?
yes if it is draining but slow then it can start to spin with enough water to drag on the bottom of the drum, which is sensed as suds lock. Is very rare though.
@@motrepairs brother, inspired by your video I was able to remove the pump. Looked a bit different to model on your video (mine wa1068g1) amd straigjt away I saw a massive amount of fluff sticking out. Took cover off and removed 2 handfuls of it. Worst thing was the water that poured out despite bailing as much as I could. Got into the plastic base and I had to painstakingly dry it so mould wouldnt grow. Anyway its all back togethet amd workinh a treat. Thanks!
Great video...very well done.
Life saver 🙌
Have you heard of the Asko pumps? And what's your opinion on them?
Thanks
Is there a way you can tell the difference between a pump issue or blocked drainage hose? Drainage hose is pulsating but zero water coming out.
If its the pump in this video not the other one then they can get worn bushings and struggle to start, which may cause a pulsing. A partial block would still let some water through so if you have nothing coming then try blowing back through the hose, you may have a coin in the elbow just after the pump or something.
I have this problem , 249 error is popping up but i wont take the pump out .. gonna see if he will sort itself out . ;)
It’s wont clear itself. Does it sound like the pump is running or is it just humming. If pump is running but not draining you could try and take the inner bowl out and see if something blocking the pump inlet.
Hi. Thank you for your video. It has been most helpful. I have a WA70T60GW1 with the new style drain pump. Unfortunately the pump needs replacing. I understand the original part has been superseded by new part number 42960P. I have received the replacement part but the wire connectors are different and the old plug cannot possibly connect to the new part. Have they sent me the wrong part or do I need to make a joining loom?
You should have also received a couple of plastic insulators in the box, and a piece of instruction paper. You need to remove the two individual terminals from plastic moulding and put insulators on them then connect individually. You can either poke a small screwdriver in to release clips on plug to get terminals out or just cut it up with a Stanley knife as long as you don’t damage the wiring. Important to insulate both as both will be at mains voltage when pump not in use.
Thanks for your fast response.Unfortunately I did not receive the instructions. Does it matter which wire goes to which terminal?
@@MichaelPhillips-dn5fp No it doesn't matter.
Hey i have one these machines and my apt dont have hook up so i have it going from the sink. But cant figure out how to get it to all thru cycle. It fills up then stops. There is nothing wrong with it. Just new to me.and being touch method we cant figure out how to make it spin out. Im particularly blind in one eye anyway.
Is it beeping and flashing any lights when it stops or have an error number in the screen?
No blockage in my pump, however resistance is 96 ohms is that to high? Ithink it is overheating and then cutting off
If you have the 230V pump that looks like the one in this video that is fine. Is it stopping a beeping with a fault code? There are other faults that can stop it draining not just a faulty pump.
@@motrepairs reading fault code 37, pump blocked error, checked and can find no blockages or kinks in hose. It is the 230V one in video. Scratching head as to weather I buy new pump or new washing machine.
@@TrevorMcCarthy-h5i is the pump actually running on spin? Is water coming out? Pump may be electrically ok but physically seized
@@motrepairsso the pump is not draining only after the wash cycle, if I advance the cycle to rinse/spin it drains fine. When I checked for blockages I was able to spin the impeller manually.
@@TrevorMcCarthy-h5i If it spins fine when you advance it then its not the pump. Does it beep and show lights if you leave it to try long enough?
Great video on how to clean out , my machine stops draining (just makes a humming noise then beeps and fault code) every so often (every third wash or so) turn off and put back to spin it and it works fine. I used the video and pulled it all apart no blockage or anything , any ideas?
Have a look at my video about how to read fault codes.
Thank you for the videos. Is the washsmart top removed by removing screws from the back and removing the entire top section or is there secrets tabs i cant see. Thank you.
Yes these are a bit different from the earlier models. There are four screws at the back screwing down into the wrap (two with washers). Then the top deck moves forward about 1cm to unlock from the front. (hard to move and there isn't much free movement because of the wiring harness.) Then you can tilt the top deck back like normal.
Thank you for responding, that's really helpful.
Love your videos! I have a WA42T26GW1. The pump i ordered that was advertised as being compatible with this model was incrrect. The pump in this video is the kind my machine takes. What is that pumps model number?
Its best to order by the product code (5 digit and a letter) rather then the model. It will depend what country you are in as to what voltage the machine is, but in NZ/AUS its 421820P or 429640P
Hi i have this exact model in Taumarunui. It is giving the 40 error and wont spin. Could taking out the drum and cleaning help? or do i need to fix something else? is it an expensive fix? the machine is about 5-6 years old, Kia Ora for any advice.
Error 40 is a bowl clutch problem, not engaging. You could take the agitator/pulsator off and make sure there is nothing around the centre shaft area.
We have the same washing machine as this one...please do a video on how to remove the tub inside for cleaning please.thanx
Hi, see this Video here ua-cam.com/video/tpJ5bDDpKkA/v-deo.html
There is a difference in getting the top deck off: There are four screws at the back screwing down into the wrap (two with washers). Then the top deck moves forward about 1cm to unlock from the front. (hard to move and there isn't much free movement because of the wiring harness.) Then you can tilt the top deck back like normal.
Hi, How do you take the top off a wash smart f&p I can't see any plugs covering screws on the top front. Great videos!
There are four screws at the back screwing down into the wrap (two with washers). Then the top deck moves forward about 1cm to unlock from the front. (hard to move and there isn't much free movement because of the wiring harness.) Then you can tilt the top deck back like normal.
Ten thousand thankyous.
10,001 you're welcomes
My washsmart is going from filling up with water the skipping to the last cycle spin mode any ideas?
Find answer to this?
How do you replace the grey hose?
The drain hose comes complete with the wiring harness and clips etc, so have to replace it all together unfortunately. Not something I'd advise to tackle without experience. If it is too short or has a hole in the part outside the machine you can extend it with either a FP Smart drive specific extension of you can get joining spigots cheaper.
This is still a current model if anyone was wondering
Yes this is the latest series.
Yep I have this exact machine. Mine has the new logo though
Hi Dan - Thanks for your great videos of F and P Problems. I am working on my Neighbour's washing machine which is the same as above - Washsmart WA1068G1 It has a crazy problem when she turns it on the Front panel lights flick around a lot changing all the times on the display nonstop and it does not go. I have tried a reset and a heat gun on the push button board and main controller just in case of moisture but to no avail. - I was thinking either the main controller or pushbutton panel has gone but very expensive to just guess and purchase one or the other Just wondering if you have come across this problem b4 - Any info regarding this would be much appreciated. Thanks, Regards Brent
Sounds like the micro-controller isnt booting correctly. ,90% chance its the motor controller, 10% its the display board.
@@motrepairs Thank you for your reply - I am going to try a new controller
Find an answer to this? Mine flashed lights then skipped from start 9f was straight to spin. I plugged unplugged everything on motor controller and now it at least completes a wash but has rapid 3 beeps non stop through the wash.
do you know how to take that black thing off
If you mean the main motor rotor you just undo the nut/bolt in the centre and it will pull the rotor off with it. If its the later model with the bolt sometimes they come off without the rotor in which case you need to try a new bolt.
My one same as this model stops at rinse
Watched your other vid to get the drum out, heaps of crap in the bottom, cleaned it all out, runs mint again, thanks mate
You could just syphon the water rather than removing the agitator
Yes you could if you are close to outside or have a very low drain. We usually use a hand pump from a kayak because often pumping into a sink nearby that isn't low enough to siphon.
@@motrepairs syphoned ours into the shower next door