Thank you! Thank you! Thank you Gary. I'm a 63yo lady, live in Australia and had put a deposit on a new washing on a monday morning at 10am online, because I (usually) WILL NOT repair old washing machines. I thought "stuff it! I'll give this a go!" following your instructions and it worked. Had it working by lunch. You should teach. You saved me $730 and I think my machine will go on for a further ten years and I feel very proud of myself. We all need you. What else do you know that may help us? :)
Thanks Gary! My motor had started to squeal badly. Following your video, I took it apart and cleaned a lint jacket off of it! Some have ask why to completely disassemble it and I can say that had I not done so, I would not have found other bits of lint and old grease. Hopeing that doing a thorough job now will keep me from having to do it again for another 10 years!
You hit the nail on the head l pulled the lint out of the pump bing must have watched 10 different videos.but to late I have already order the pump thank darren from Coffs harbour
Thank you for the excellent video and clear instructions. My machine is a F&P 7.5 kg Top Load Smart Drive 3. The pump impeller was a little different but in general the pump and your instructions on how to fix it was spot on. I had lint accumulated on a broken tooth pick bent jammed on the the wet side of the impeller and was seizing the impeller from turning. When I took it out and gave everything a good clean the pump was working as good as new. You are a gun mate and thoughtful of you to to post the video for many others to to be educated. I'm sure I saved $500+ and during Covid Lockdown I may not have been able to get a repairman out, so that would then have cost $1500 for a new machine. Cheers
Thanks so much Gary I followed your instructions to the letter - and it worked! My only expense was a tub of grease from Bunnings. So happy to have a washing machine that is now pumping water out again. Thank you SO MUCH!
Thanks so much! Mine ended up being rusty due to a slow leak. Tested resistance between the contacts and had over 8 ohms which is out of spec, after cleaning it off it was down to 7 in spec and worked properly afterwards.
sensational video,excellent detail,I 'm no expert at home repairs but after watching your video and machine going good as new,i'm quite chuffed at my repair work(THANKS TO YOU).Don't know how much it would have cost me?hundreds I imagine.once again appreciate your help.
thank you for sharing your skill. Using washing machine almost every second day, and suddenly it wouldn't drain. Actually followed another video to know how to take pump out but when i put it back in the machine and turned it on, the panel on the machine went blank. I usually am fraid to touch anything electrical when water is in or around it. However, I found your video and stripped the pump to clean and grease it. By the way, the cause of the blockage was a chain that had been attached to some clothing which had gone through the machine. Thanks for your helpful video.
Thanks for the great video. I had the same problem with our Fisher & Paykel pump motor, fixed it today. FYI the 8kg model has a diverter valve, I'm in Australia also.
Thankyou!! I've never fixed a washing machine before. Hopefully this does the trick for me, but even if it wasnt the pump (I ran the diagnostics so I'm hoping it was just that), this video really helped me and was simple to follow. Thankyou!!!!
Thankyou, I have a faulty pump that seemed to work then cut out before emptying the tub fully, no error codes. I happened to have a spare GW612 sitting in the garage and pulled the pump from that, checked the part number to make sure it was the same and put it in the GW712 which fixed my immediate problem. But the old pump seems to be okay with no noticeable damage. After watching your video I'm going see if I can get the original one working again. Thanks again.
hrep14 hoping you and everyone on the planet never has to own a FP washer ever again. What a nightmare and headache. Hope you got yours fixed and have moved onto American or Korean made quality in the future.
Thanks! I cleaned the shaft and the lint from the seal and lubricated the shaft, but that did not work. So, I added two small O-Rings between the impeller and the seal, and so far so good. I tried one O-Ring and the shaft turned freely. Three O-Rings and it dragged. With two O-Rings it had just a little drag, so I figure the O-Rings are pressing against the original seal just enough to keep the water from dripping through.
mine had same prom, heavily rusted rotor, stator ok, cheers from Buderin QLD did not want to buy a new machine, now made in China not Mt Wellinton, good vid mine the switch was c rook
yeah, nice one-handed repair. I'm having the same issue with the leaky pump on my washer. I'm doing this temporary fix, but also ordering a new pump that comes with a fuse. If this leak happens again the pump could short and fry the controller board which cannot be fixed with WD-40.... thanks for posting this but would recommend just replacing the pump as this leak will happen again.
One important detail is the Grease type. The auto grease for metal parts (bearings etc.) will damage rubber and plastic. These parts will swell and leak again. To protect rubber and plastic look for a silicon-type grease. The label on a Grease should say it is rubber/plastic friendly.
Hi Gary...Your videos are AMAZINGLY HELPFUL. I took my pump out and found a sea pebble & a piece of sea glass buggering it up...but I have another problem. It is nearby this...if you follow up the tube from the pump along the side of the drum I have a leak up there when the machine is filling with water. I cannot see it during operation (I don't know how?)..I can see water droplets on the tube to the pump about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up into the machine. ..but I think it may be coming from where those clear tubes are adjacent to the water pump tube......I could send a photo...do you have any video that deal with the machine leaking up in that area? Thanks! --Bob
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem, which was fixed after followed this. Problem is that it now leaks from the drain pump. I spoke to someone about it and they said there should be an o ring on the pump, which I didn't see when I removed it. Could anyone confirm that there should be an o ring it, cheers.
Great video Gary. Thanks for the excellent explanation. At marker 2:20, you mention a "bearing" which was perhaps covered in lint. I was unable to locate any bearing...only lint. Is there actually a bearing? The black rubber bellow that sits just below the Impeller wheel (which unscrews) seems to be where my machine has a leak. F&P only show a "back order" for the drain pump assembly, which includes the bellow. They don't sell the parts individually. Any suggestions?
WARNING! you really need to clean out that rubber gasket's shaft hole with a paper towel, if you don't, it will leak. clean with a paper towal and lube with a moly grease like Superlube. the rest of electrical cleaning isn't really neccesary for a leak but if your bored.....
What was wrong with the pump? My commutator rotor was rusted and I scraped all the rust off. Why did you have to take the plastic part off and grease it? I still get the 00110001 error code but the machine does get further along in the cycle than it did before. Is the machine getting stuck because I didn't take apart the plastic round black part of the pump and grease it? It seems to spin freely otherwise. What did I miss? You should take a wire brush to the shaft of the commutator rotor to get all the rust off. Your motor will fail within 1-2 years, guaranteed. It's completely rusted and the problem you had is going to recur. I had to scrub hard for about ten minutes and use a powerful rust degreaser. Your motor is going to definitely fail electrically very soon. Plus you are going to burn it up, because the magnet gets super hot and noisy if you don't get that rust off asap. I think the motor costs over $50 USD to replace, not worth it for such a poorly designed brand and machine. I still can't figure out exactly how what you did fixed your machine because you really didn't do much to the motor. You need to definitely get the rust off that shaft asap. Just scrape it for 10 minutes all around with a hard wire brush. It's super painful because the rust is deeply embedded into the metal and you need the fine metal grooves back for the magnet and motor to turn freely and properly electrically. I think you may have gotten lucky with your fix, as the real problem is with the metal shaft of the rotator on the magnet being totally rusted as your video shows clearly. Mine was completely rusted solid brown and caked like mud with rust. Yours will do the same too since there is moisture under the machine and you already have the rust process going full on without interruption.
Note that the hard black plastic disk pops out of the softer rubber seal, and you can clean out the large cavity in between. I filled the cavity with grease before I reassembled the seal.
Also, give the fan a spin after reinstalling the pump. If it doesn't spin, you may have put the pump on an angle (as I did). Once I lined it up properly it was much easier to twist into place also.
good video but no way this sort of repair would work very long.. I've done it with many and best you get is a few weeks as you can't regenerate the worn seal. .. only sure fix is replace the seal but be sure pump is at or as close to 32 ohms else it will burn out anyway.... seals are now available online with a simple Google search
When you say it trips the Earth leakage detector, my machine won't light up but it does make a quiet chirp sound when connected to the power. Is this what you are referring to?
The rubber seal pops off. It doesn't require disassembly of the motor. Typically the motors go bad from having water saturate the windings. which is probably why they don't sell seals. Repairmen don't want callbacks. If you catch it early enough you can likely make this repair and save the motor too. In winter would set the motor in front of moving heated air - like the vent on home HVAC, or set on top of a home heater radiator, anything that will warm it up but not get too hot, and can be left unattended. In summer put it outside in the sunlight. I'm thinking of placing the motor in a vise afterward and powering it so I can polish the rust and gunk off the shaft. then maybe pack the seal with heavy grease. There is a cavity between the upper and lower sealing surfaces. My 2 cents for what its worth.
Lonestar Yep. I scraped off the rust with a metal brush. It fixed most of the problem. I didn't take the plastic piece off to clean underneath but I'm thinking may be I should? My motor popped up and down just fine. Is that normal?
"...pack the seal with heavy grease. There is a cavity between the upper and lower sealing surfaces." You hit on an excellent point with this. I disassembled the unit as shown but it started leaking upon reassembly. I noticed there was originally a lot of grease on the shaft in the cavity vicinity that I wiped away and I used a thin layer of white lithium grease - BIG mistake. So I bought some Extra Heavy Duty (Green) grease and not only lubed the shaft and pivots but applied a liberal amount to the cavity area within the rubber gasket (there is also some plastic portions of that gasket). Slowly insert the metal shaft into the gasket and before it enters mid-way into the cavity area, press the grease into the area and off to the sides so that the shaft doesn't push it out as you press the shaft through. Pack it well. Then pack some grease into the space under the impeller cap before screwing it down. Now it no longer leaks. Was there perhaps a fabric washer in the packing area that disintegrates over time??
Because of water sloshing everywhere, better not to lie it on its side. Instead, lean the back side of it up against a wall and reach up and under to access the pump.
But the other thing is, why the heck strip the pump down like this? The round black seal arrangement comes out of the white plastic holder without dismantled the pump. This is just crazy.
Thanks for the Video Gary I wounder what type of grease you used on the seal and how long this stopped the pump seal unit from leaking? Thanks in advance
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you Gary. I'm a 63yo lady, live in Australia and had put a deposit on a new washing on a monday morning at 10am online, because I (usually) WILL NOT repair old washing machines. I thought "stuff it! I'll give this a go!" following your instructions and it worked. Had it working by lunch. You should teach. You saved me $730 and I think my machine will go on for a further ten years and I feel very proud of myself. We all need you. What else do you know that may help us? :)
Glad you saved some money Maureen, you are welcome
Thanks Gary!
My motor had started to squeal badly. Following your video, I took it apart and cleaned a lint jacket off of it! Some have ask why to completely disassemble it and I can say that had I not done so, I would not have found other bits of lint and old grease.
Hopeing that doing a thorough job now will keep me from having to do it again for another 10 years!
LOL - this guy LITERALLY repaired the pump with one hand behind his back.....
Good on ya Gary....
You hit the nail on the head l pulled the lint out of the pump bing must have watched 10 different videos.but to late I have already order the pump thank darren from Coffs harbour
Thank you for the excellent video and clear instructions. My machine is a F&P 7.5 kg Top Load Smart Drive 3. The pump impeller was a little different but in general the pump and your instructions on how to fix it was spot on.
I had lint accumulated on a broken tooth pick bent jammed on the the wet side of the impeller and was seizing the impeller from turning. When I took it out and gave everything a good clean the pump was working as good as new.
You are a gun mate and thoughtful of you to to post the video for many others to to be educated.
I'm sure I saved $500+ and during Covid Lockdown I may not have been able to get a repairman out, so that would then have cost $1500 for a new machine.
Cheers
Thanks so much Gary I followed your instructions to the letter - and it worked! My only expense was a tub of grease from Bunnings. So happy to have a washing machine that is now pumping water out again. Thank you SO MUCH!
Thanks so much! Mine ended up being rusty due to a slow leak. Tested resistance between the contacts and had over 8 ohms which is out of spec, after cleaning it off it was down to 7 in spec and worked properly afterwards.
sensational video,excellent detail,I 'm no expert at home repairs but after watching your video and machine going good as new,i'm quite chuffed at my repair work(THANKS TO YOU).Don't know how much it would have cost me?hundreds I imagine.once again appreciate your help.
thank you for sharing your skill. Using washing machine almost every second day, and suddenly it wouldn't drain. Actually followed another video to know how to take pump out but when i put it back in the machine and turned it on, the panel on the machine went blank. I usually am fraid to touch anything electrical when water is in or around it. However, I found your video and stripped the pump to clean and grease it. By the way, the cause of the blockage was a chain that had been attached to some clothing which had gone through the machine. Thanks for your helpful video.
Gary you bloody legend im going to try this now, you might have just saved me $130 NZD for a new pump
Thanks for the great video. I had the same problem with our Fisher & Paykel pump motor, fixed it today. FYI the 8kg model has a diverter valve, I'm in Australia also.
Thankyou!! I've never fixed a washing machine before. Hopefully this does the trick for me, but even if it wasnt the pump (I ran the diagnostics so I'm hoping it was just that), this video really helped me and was simple to follow. Thankyou!!!!
Thankyou, I have a faulty pump that seemed to work then cut out before emptying the tub fully, no error codes. I happened to have a spare GW612 sitting in the garage and pulled the pump from that, checked the part number to make sure it was the same and put it in the GW712 which fixed my immediate problem. But the old pump seems to be okay with no noticeable damage. After watching your video I'm going see if I can get the original one working again. Thanks again.
hrep14 hoping you and everyone on the planet never has to own a FP washer ever again. What a nightmare and headache. Hope you got yours fixed and have moved onto American or Korean made quality in the future.
Thank you Gary. I followed your video and took the motor apart and cleaned and greased it. It works like a charm. Thank you .
Thanks! I cleaned the shaft and the lint from the seal and lubricated the shaft, but that did not work. So, I added two small O-Rings between the impeller and the seal, and so far so good. I tried one O-Ring and the shaft turned freely. Three O-Rings and it dragged. With two O-Rings it had just a little drag, so I figure the O-Rings are pressing against the original seal just enough to keep the water from dripping through.
Thank you Gary - awesome help, need a quick was for work tomorrow and you save the day for me doing it by hand. Thank you so much!
mine had same prom, heavily rusted rotor, stator ok, cheers from Buderin QLD did not want to buy a new machine, now made in China not Mt Wellinton, good vid mine the switch was c rook
yeah, nice one-handed repair. I'm having the same issue with the leaky pump on my washer. I'm doing this temporary fix, but also ordering a new pump that comes with a fuse. If this leak happens again the pump could short and fry the controller board which cannot be fixed with WD-40.... thanks for posting this but would recommend just replacing the pump as this leak will happen again.
Finally I found a service repair video for this motor! My search is over! Thanks heaps!
Excellent video. Well done. Off now to sort mine out!
Thanks for your information as the water pump is squeals when trying to pump water out.
excellent. thanks Gary. your step-by-step was really easy to follow. you rock.
Nice one, well done.
Many thanks, Sir! Saved me a ton of money and aggravation.
Awesome! My washing machine has new life thanks to you! :) Thank you!!!
waw !! thank you gary !!
same pump on the MW511 model.
Gary, you are a rock star!!! And if you are ever in Portland, Oregon, I owe you a beer (or a coffee--we drink a lot of that here, too.) THANK YOU!
Thanks mate. You are a legend.... fixed our washing machine. Cheers 👍👍👍
Great job, Gary!! Thanks for the tutorial.
Gary, thank you so much! Your video made this repair so easy!
One important detail is the Grease type. The auto grease for metal parts (bearings etc.) will damage rubber and plastic. These parts will swell and leak again. To protect rubber and plastic look for a silicon-type grease. The label on a Grease should say it is rubber/plastic friendly.
Thanks Gary, I think you've solved my problem, excellent video.
Hi Gary...Your videos are AMAZINGLY HELPFUL. I took my pump out and found a sea pebble & a piece of sea glass buggering it up...but I have another problem. It is nearby this...if you follow up the tube from the pump along the side of the drum I have a leak up there when the machine is filling with water. I cannot see it during operation (I don't know how?)..I can see water droplets on the tube to the pump about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up into the machine. ..but I think it may be coming from where those clear tubes are adjacent to the water pump tube......I could send a photo...do you have any video that deal with the machine leaking up in that area?
Thanks! --Bob
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem, which was fixed after followed this. Problem is that it now leaks from the drain pump. I spoke to someone about it and they said there should be an o ring on the pump, which I didn't see when I removed it. Could anyone confirm that there should be an o ring it, cheers.
Cheers Gary, you are a legend mate. This was so helpful!
As a DIYer How did the lint cause the seal to leak and how is putting grease there gonna stop it from leakingas if w get warm often?
Did the pump used to stop because it overheated or just because the earth leakage switch blew? Mine is cutting out due to it getting hot.
Great video Gary. Thanks for the excellent explanation.
At marker 2:20, you mention a "bearing" which was perhaps covered in lint. I was unable to locate any bearing...only lint. Is there actually a bearing?
The black rubber bellow that sits just below the Impeller wheel (which unscrews) seems to be where my machine has a leak. F&P only show a "back order" for the drain pump assembly, which includes the bellow. They don't sell the parts individually.
Any suggestions?
Bush not bearings
Do you have repair instructions for a F&P that won’t spin and beeping 😬🤞🏽 (not due to being unbalanced)
Thanks good fix
Nice to know thanks for the vid.
thank you! :)
Do you have to test ohms resistance with a multimeter?
WARNING! you really need to clean out that rubber gasket's shaft hole with a paper towel, if you don't, it will leak. clean with a paper towal and lube with a moly grease like Superlube. the rest of electrical cleaning isn't really neccesary for a leak but if your bored.....
Can it be glued
What was wrong with the pump? My commutator rotor was rusted and I scraped all the rust off. Why did you have to take the plastic part off and grease it? I still get the 00110001 error code but the machine does get further along in the cycle than it did before. Is the machine getting stuck because I didn't take apart the plastic round black part of the pump and grease it? It seems to spin freely otherwise. What did I miss?
You should take a wire brush to the shaft of the commutator rotor to get all the rust off. Your motor will fail within 1-2 years, guaranteed. It's completely rusted and the problem you had is going to recur. I had to scrub hard for about ten minutes and use a powerful rust degreaser. Your motor is going to definitely fail electrically very soon. Plus you are going to burn it up, because the magnet gets super hot and noisy if you don't get that rust off asap. I think the motor costs over $50 USD to replace, not worth it for such a poorly designed brand and machine. I still can't figure out exactly how what you did fixed your machine because you really didn't do much to the motor. You need to definitely get the rust off that shaft asap. Just scrape it for 10 minutes all around with a hard wire brush. It's super painful because the rust is deeply embedded into the metal and you need the fine metal grooves back for the magnet and motor to turn freely and properly electrically. I think you may have gotten lucky with your fix, as the real problem is with the metal shaft of the rotator on the magnet being totally rusted as your video shows clearly. Mine was completely rusted solid brown and caked like mud with rust. Yours will do the same too since there is moisture under the machine and you already have the rust process going full on without interruption.
Note that the hard black plastic disk pops out of the softer rubber seal, and you can clean out the large cavity in between. I filled the cavity with grease before I reassembled the seal.
Also, give the fan a spin after reinstalling the pump. If it doesn't spin, you may have put the pump on an angle (as I did). Once I lined it up properly it was much easier to twist into place also.
Great. An IMPORTANT detail to prevent leaks.
good video but no way this sort of repair would work very long.. I've done it with many and best you get is a few weeks as you can't regenerate the worn seal. .. only sure fix is replace the seal but be sure pump is at or as close to 32 ohms else it will burn out anyway.... seals are now available online with a simple Google search
When you say it trips the Earth leakage detector, my machine won't light up but it does make a quiet chirp sound when connected to the power. Is this what you are referring to?
FYI - that quite Chirp is just the “power up” sound.
The rubber seal pops off. It doesn't require disassembly of the motor. Typically the motors go bad from having water saturate the windings. which is probably why they don't sell seals. Repairmen don't want callbacks. If you catch it early enough you can likely make this repair and save the motor too. In winter would set the motor in front of moving heated air - like the vent on home HVAC, or set on top of a home heater radiator, anything that will warm it up but not get too hot, and can be left unattended. In summer put it outside in the sunlight. I'm thinking of placing the motor in a vise afterward and powering it so I can polish the rust and gunk off the shaft. then maybe pack the seal with heavy grease. There is a cavity between the upper and lower sealing surfaces. My 2 cents for what its worth.
Lonestar Yep. I scraped off the rust with a metal brush. It fixed most of the problem. I didn't take the plastic piece off to clean underneath but I'm thinking may be I should? My motor popped up and down just fine. Is that normal?
"...pack the seal with heavy grease. There is a cavity between the upper and lower sealing surfaces."
You hit on an excellent point with this. I disassembled the unit as shown but it started leaking upon reassembly. I noticed there was originally a lot of grease on the shaft in the cavity vicinity that I wiped away and I used a thin layer of white lithium grease - BIG mistake. So I bought some Extra Heavy Duty (Green) grease and not only lubed the shaft and pivots but applied a liberal amount to the cavity area within the rubber gasket (there is also some plastic portions of that gasket). Slowly insert the metal shaft into the gasket and before it enters mid-way into the cavity area, press the grease into the area and off to the sides so that the shaft doesn't push it out as you press the shaft through. Pack it well. Then pack some grease into the space under the impeller cap before screwing it down. Now it no longer leaks.
Was there perhaps a fabric washer in the packing area that disintegrates over time??
Because of water sloshing everywhere, better not to lie it on its side. Instead, lean the back side of it up against a wall and reach up and under to access the pump.
But the other thing is, why the heck strip the pump down like this? The round black seal arrangement comes out of the white plastic holder without dismantled the pump. This is just crazy.
Thanks for the Video Gary
I wounder what type of grease you used on the seal and how long this stopped the pump seal unit from leaking?
Thanks in advance