I had worked out that drive change mechanism ages ago, but didn't realise which part was indeed causing the rub. Mine just touches with a light rub, but not completely around the cap ring. Now I know to change it now. I'm just doing the bearings as over the last few weeks, it's got very noisy on spin. It's only the top bearing and when you hand turn the bearing (just got it out,) it gnarly, but not greatly, but boy did it make a lot of noise. The lower one is still good. (AquaSmart) I have to say the Ajax water valve (4 of them,) the hot was making it stop filling and fault, but now with the replacement the unit on every fill type- hot and cold, fills much stronger than before. The coils must fatigue in the insulation? I measured them with an inductance meter and also with the D setting and checked the new and the old; even the faulty hot fill one All measured the same in the parameters of inductance ,so I was wondering that things change under an electrical load? The impedance is probably what I should have worked out? One MOSFET has heat evidence around it on the control motherboard, but it has to do with the direct drive output, by the rough look of investigation and not the water control as the current needs are way less. Anyway, a blooming good machine. I think I bought it in mid 2000's? It has done much work.
Some of the cold valves are proportional, but for cold fill they will open fully. Most likely it was dirt buildup over time on the valve filters or inside the valves slowing down flow rather then electrical.
Thank you for the great video. We have a F&P washsmart model WA8060Gi (about 8 years old) that will not do the spin cycle and starts to beep. Even with just two tea towels so is not unbalance. Two days ago had a look underneath, pulled the drum up a couple of times after watching your video and it worked again for two loads. Any ideas much appreciated. Thank you.
Thanks for your videos and explanation, awesome and helped me solve a problem 56 by cleaning out my spline drive. Just re ran a wash cycle, should for F&P smartdrive 11, should a wash spin 3 times (2 x whilst lights showing rinse ???)
I usually get it from RS components, its $30-40 for a small bottle but you don't use much, usually goes dry on me before I use it. Cheapest looks like pilotshop.co.nz but they are out of stock, but Looks like nzfasteners.co.nz have some
Is the inner bowel porous or sealed and why does it have loads of holes ? Is the outer plastic bowl just for overflow collection? Also is it called a smart drive cause it has no gearbox or belt? Also I put the machine fully on the side to do the rps sensor do u think the water could have leaked out of the inner bowel that u say could leak out and effect spinning Cheers
The inner bowl is just made to hold the clothes, and has lots of holes so it can let the water out of the clothes when it spins. The are called Smart Drive because Fisher and Paykel were the first to come up with a direct drive Electronically controller ("Smart") Motor. If you lie it down there is always a bit of water in the bottom that will come out, but it should dry out no problem. A leak from the seal will mean there is always water around the motor and that will cause problems long term.
Id suggest sending Steve at appliancespares.nz an email and see if he can work something out for you. Failing that we may be able to help you but you would need to be able to pay into our NZ bank account.
very interesting, i always wondered how it worked
Fascinating!
The smart drive motor reminds me of a Sopwith Camel engine which rotates around the crankshaft rather than vice versa.
Thanks for the time you put into these videos! Looking forward to more!!!!
I have a few more videos on smart drives then going to be switching focus to Ovens as we prepare to train someone up.
Nice video. I think detergent build up, grit , gunk and fabric softner residue my be this machines little nemesis to future problems.
Just run a hot wash through with a cleaner every 6 months after you have manually scrubbed it clean and they stay pretty clean.
Excellent video.
I had worked out that drive change mechanism ages ago, but didn't realise which part was indeed causing the rub. Mine just touches with a light rub, but not completely around the cap ring. Now I know to change it now. I'm just doing the bearings as over the last few weeks, it's got very noisy on spin. It's only the top bearing and when you hand turn the bearing (just got it out,) it gnarly, but not greatly, but boy did it make a lot of noise. The lower one is still good. (AquaSmart)
I have to say the Ajax water valve (4 of them,) the hot was making it stop filling and fault, but now with the replacement the unit on every fill type- hot and cold, fills much stronger than before. The coils must fatigue in the insulation? I measured them with an inductance meter and also with the D setting and checked the new and the old; even the faulty hot fill one All measured the same in the parameters of inductance ,so I was wondering that things change under an electrical load? The impedance is probably what I should have worked out?
One MOSFET has heat evidence around it on the control motherboard, but it has to do with the direct drive output, by the rough look of investigation and not the water control as the current needs are way less.
Anyway, a blooming good machine. I think I bought it in mid 2000's? It has done much work.
Some of the cold valves are proportional, but for cold fill they will open fully. Most likely it was dirt buildup over time on the valve filters or inside the valves slowing down flow rather then electrical.
Thank you for the great video. We have a F&P washsmart model WA8060Gi (about 8 years old) that will not do the spin cycle and starts to beep. Even with just two tea towels so is not unbalance. Two days ago had a look underneath, pulled the drum up a couple of times after watching your video and it worked again for two loads. Any ideas much appreciated.
Thank you.
Thanks for your videos and explanation, awesome and helped me solve a problem 56 by cleaning out my spline drive. Just re ran a wash cycle, should for F&P smartdrive 11, should a wash spin 3 times (2 x whilst lights showing rinse ???)
Depending on how the optional settings are it will do one spray rinse (slow spin) and a deep rinse, or two spray rinses, before the spin.
Hey Dan do you happen to have any idea as to where I can get some Regrip or screw grip by any chance?
I usually get it from RS components, its $30-40 for a small bottle but you don't use much, usually goes dry on me before I use it. Cheapest looks like pilotshop.co.nz but they are out of stock, but Looks like nzfasteners.co.nz have some
valve grinding paste does the same job and its cheaper
Is the inner bowel porous or sealed and why does it have loads of holes ? Is the outer plastic bowl just for overflow collection? Also is it called a smart drive cause it has no gearbox or belt? Also I put the machine fully on the side to do the rps sensor do u think the water could have leaked out of the inner bowel that u say could leak out and effect spinning Cheers
The inner bowl is just made to hold the clothes, and has lots of holes so it can let the water out of the clothes when it spins. The are called Smart Drive because Fisher and Paykel were the first to come up with a direct drive Electronically controller ("Smart") Motor.
If you lie it down there is always a bit of water in the bottom that will come out, but it should dry out no problem. A leak from the seal will mean there is always water around the motor and that will cause problems long term.
@@motrepairs thanks
I am looking for a New Zealand shop that can deliver to Fiji. I need a bearing kit for top loader hopefully NSK bearings and seal.
Id suggest sending Steve at appliancespares.nz an email and see if he can work something out for you. Failing that we may be able to help you but you would need to be able to pay into our NZ bank account.