Thanks for the great presentation. I've got the same model. My machine has been conking out for a variety of reasons over the years but I've always been able to get it running again. I collect parts off the hard rubbish collection throw outs and it has paid off. I've had to replace the pump twice and recently the diverter jammed, which caused the drive transistor on the board to blow. Rather than spend hundreds on a new board I wired a switch in series with the pump and mounted the switch on the control panel. I replaced the jammed diverter and left it in the pump out position. Now when the machine fills at the start of a cycle I switch the pump off while the control program is running until the machine starts to wash. That way I by-pass the phase where the diverter normally kicks in and avoid water being pumped out prior to the wash cycle commencing. It means the machine isn't fully auto anymore but for the time being it still works. A few days ago it played up again. This time it was fault code 240 and because I had a spare motor position sensor circuit board I replaced it . Your presentation makes the job of replacing the bearings look relatively straightforward for anyone will the skills to tackle the task. Thanks.
Thanks for this video it is very helpful. When the little plastic slotted ring is removed from the top spline (video time 4:41) is there supposed to be a rubber washer between it and the tub base? because when I put my fingers beneath the plastic "thingy" to pull it out I noticed that the thin metal washer was loose on the inner shaft. If it is meant to be loose do we know what it's function is? The reason I am doing this is because the leak from my machine only happens on a wash cycle not when filling or emptying so I figure it must be a washer (?) sealing the drive of the tub?? PS: at no time is there any noise from the drive on any cycle it is still quiet as a mouse.
Be very careful of the out of balance over inside the top of the cover in the washing machine that houses the lid switch (newer models from 2006 and newer don’t have these levers) because these levers can snap off quite easily if you’re not careful
I think I have a bad bearing as it’s very noisy during agitation. A squeaking sound. It started in the winter months and since I do a lot of cold water washes, I blamed that. But it continues. More when it’s early in the cycle before it’s warmed up. I just noticed water on the basement floor too. I replaced the drainage pump last year and it drains fine. I’m afraid a leaking seal above the bearing may ruin the rotor so I’ve suspended using it until I diagnose the problem. What are your thoughts?.
I guess it is plausible that the water could make its way down through the Lipseal and the two bearings, but I would expect that if things are that shot, it would be pretty noisy during the spin cycle too?
@@Taranakiguy , I got a bearing kit and I have replaced the bearings. They were shot. I have watched videos of the seal being put in on UA-cam. All other brands use lubricant and silicone on the seal but I haven’t seen anyone put silicone sealant on the Fisher & Paykel lip seal. Is that correct?
Hi mate, great vid. Thought I'd follow suit (I've got the same washer with the same noise). It was the same bearing on mine that failed too. Anyway, just putting the machine back together and I wanted to ask if it is normal for the metal sleeve between the two bearings to move to the left and right once the new bearings are in place and just before the shaft is reinstalled. Thanks.
Yeah I found the same thing... that sleeve is not “tight” on the shaft... seems to act as a spacer between the two bearings... hope the job has been a success for you 👍
Had a problem after installing the bearings that the shaft or the rod is not perfectly aligned after pushing the bearings to the limit. My suggestions is to check the alignment first before pushing the bearing too much. I hit the bearing spacer which prevented me from making adjustments
Thanks for filming this, as I know when we get into the mode of this type of replacement we dont want to stop and film and stop and film so thank you !! and for the the comments . also folks here might find this video helpful too ua-cam.com/video/oln_S63Q5Rs/v-deo.html - for those who are very apprehensive this guy gives some added details too
While you are pulling it apart, put the bearings in the deep freezer and take them out just before fitting. It shrinks them ever so slightly.
Yip can be a great idea to shrink them slightly in the freezer first 👍
19:46 probably because of it being winter when this repair was necessary
VERY VERY thorough.. THANK YOU so much! I haven't had any issues yet, but keeping this video for "future reference". Thank you so much.. great video!
Thanks for the great presentation. I've got the same model. My machine has been conking out for a variety of reasons over the years but I've always been able to get it running again. I collect parts off the hard rubbish collection throw outs and it has paid off. I've had to replace the pump twice and recently the diverter jammed, which caused the drive transistor on the board to blow. Rather than spend hundreds on a new board I wired a switch in series with the pump and mounted the switch on the control panel. I replaced the jammed diverter and left it in the pump out position. Now when the machine fills at the start of a cycle I switch the pump off while the control program is running until the machine starts to wash. That way I by-pass the phase where the diverter normally kicks in and avoid water being pumped out prior to the wash cycle commencing. It means the machine isn't fully auto anymore but for the time being it still works.
A few days ago it played up again. This time it was fault code 240 and because I had a spare motor position sensor circuit board I replaced it . Your presentation makes the job of replacing the bearings look relatively straightforward for anyone will the skills to tackle the task.
Thanks.
I used to have this machine
Thanks for this video it is very helpful. When the little plastic slotted ring is removed from the top spline (video time 4:41) is there supposed to be a rubber washer between it and the tub base? because when I put my fingers beneath the plastic "thingy" to pull it out I noticed that the thin metal washer was loose on the inner shaft. If it is meant to be loose do we know what it's function is? The reason I am doing this is because the leak from my machine only happens on a wash cycle not when filling or emptying so I figure it must be a washer (?) sealing the drive of the tub?? PS: at no time is there any noise from the drive on any cycle it is still quiet as a mouse.
Thanks for the info but don't know if you can help but after putting in new bearing and seal it started to make a squealing noise
do you need grease on the seal?
Be very careful of the out of balance over inside the top of the cover in the washing machine that houses the lid switch (newer models from 2006 and newer don’t have these levers) because these levers can snap off quite easily if you’re not careful
Yes good advice… they can be a bit delicate, especially as the Machine ages
I think I have a bad bearing as it’s very noisy during agitation. A squeaking sound. It started in the winter months and since I do a lot of cold water washes, I blamed that. But it continues. More when it’s early in the cycle before it’s warmed up. I just noticed water on the basement floor too. I replaced the drainage pump last year and it drains fine. I’m afraid a leaking seal above the bearing may ruin the rotor so I’ve suspended using it until I diagnose the problem. What are your thoughts?.
I guess it is plausible that the water could make its way down through the Lipseal and the two bearings, but I would expect that if things are that shot, it would be pretty noisy during the spin cycle too?
@@Taranakiguy , I got a bearing kit and I have replaced the bearings. They were shot. I have watched videos of the seal being put in on UA-cam. All other brands use lubricant and silicone on the seal but I haven’t seen anyone put silicone sealant on the Fisher & Paykel lip seal. Is that correct?
How is the machine going to this day??
Still working perfectly and used daily 😊
Hi mate, great vid. Thought I'd follow suit (I've got the same washer with the same noise). It was the same bearing on mine that failed too. Anyway, just putting the machine back together and I wanted to ask if it is normal for the metal sleeve between the two bearings to move to the left and right once the new bearings are in place and just before the shaft is reinstalled. Thanks.
Yeah I found the same thing... that sleeve is not “tight” on the shaft... seems to act as a spacer between the two bearings... hope the job has been a success for you 👍
Had a problem after installing the bearings that the shaft or the rod is not perfectly aligned after pushing the bearings to the limit. My suggestions is to check the alignment first before pushing the bearing too much. I hit the bearing spacer which prevented me from making adjustments
Thanks for filming this, as I know when we get into the mode of this type of replacement we dont want to stop and film and stop and film so thank you !! and for the the comments . also folks here might find this video helpful too ua-cam.com/video/oln_S63Q5Rs/v-deo.html - for those who are very apprehensive this guy gives some added details too