Link to Single Stage "Gun Metal" Paint www.ebay.com/i... ebay seller www.ebay.com/s... or visit www.allkandys.com Link to Kobalt Spray Gun www.lowes.com/...
My Aunt and uncle are the people that sell this paint. They are great people and sell great products. Support a great family that is much deserving and buy their products!!
@@AnsleyBuilt yes they are, they are about to move the business to wheaton to a much larger building that will suit their needs as well as a much nicer store front for customers to visit.
Hi max do they happen to have a website? I’m from North Carolina and would love to purchase some candy black cherry paint from them if they have that option
@@christiansalgado8584 they have a web site but everything I put a comment with anything close it gets deleted. I knowvyou can't post links to UA-cam but no matter what it gets deleted
Professional painter for 32 yrs, I give him alot of credit. I can remember how hard it was for me at the very beginning..... For an old truck it looks great, it's better than when he started. Nice job man, keep painting !!!!!!
Thank you, I appreciate your support! 🙏🏼 This was definitely a big project to tackle, especially going with a single stage metallic. It's easy for someone to ignore all the hard work and criticize when something doesnt come out as planned, but I also read thru comments and take advice from people that bring their experiences to the channel. Here's another project I did after this Silverado, if you could please take a look at ua-cam.com/video/cWDLyQhr4YQ/v-deo.html I personally believe I did better just by reading a few helpful tips!
As a professional painter of 19 years I will support the above comment. Single stage is not an easy product, and being metallic it is even more challenging. For starters, you can't just stop and fix an error, you only get one shot. So indeed, you did a great job. My advice would be dividing the job into two parts: cab and bed. Second, maintain wet edge: imagine you are coloring truck with a marker but never take your hand off the paper. This will reduce dry shot areas. Overall- great job, man! You will only get better with each paint job👍
Hey James I made a comment about how much air pressure on the compressor someone needs to paint a vehicle, he never gave me a response maybe u can help me out
@@MarioMartinez-wh8qv That's a loaded question, but if compressor can really keep up and you are running a regulator on the gun the single stage I use I spray at 2.5 bar...... I spray just a touch higher as that is my preference..... Follow any tech sheets provided with material and use as a guide. After that, weather, experience can change those settings day to day to some degree. Size of parts etc. Hope this helps, good luck
@@MarioMartinez-wh8qv Mario, Feel free to contact me again for anymore help. If you are coming out of compressor with no regulation at the gun then you get whatever the compressor can give you.
Dude! I’ve been painting for 40 years and taught it at a skill center! Like you said it was a ranch truck. It great job for what it is. So many of the so called painters on UA-cam never use scotchbrite pads! Those are the best to prepare the entire truck. Doing the roof first is a great idea to do. Mixing both gallons is a great idea also. For what it is you did a great job!
What Scotchbrite sanding pad do you use to sand vehicle you right the videos see on UA-cam they don't most of them using Scothbrite pad the regular sandpaper scratches up the surface more I been trying to paint for almost two years but only some months out the year don't have the right heater for painting in winter. Last year I was starting to use scuff pads and bought scuff paste but was using circular pads with a orbital sander.
For a first time prep and paint, while using a DIY paint booth. Wow. For just a non-professional paint job, I say, job well done. I've been using Scotch-Brite Hand Pads by the case since they came out. Many other wet and dry sanding products have come out that I use too. So many options for the painter these days from their equipment to their paint. Not like the old days of the 50s and 60s when I was a teenager learning to paint my cars. I remember runs and orange peel and the hours of more sanding.
I’m 12 minutes in, and I paused to pay you a well-deserved compliment! I appreciate your thoroughness, your skill, and that you’re showing it all at regular speed. Your editing and choice of music make it almost therapeutic to watch! Thanks!!!
Never ever ever spray any metallic in single stage..huge mistake..it can not be buffed evenly..you absolutely van not colorsand single stage mettallic..
This is one of my favorite UA-cam channels. Videos are educational, not “over talked,” and motivating. I really like his shop and mostly his perspective on the different paints, sprayers and all the painting tips that make a DIY guy the courage to put some paint on his truck. Thanks dude ! Keep it up.
Wow! Not bad cleaning up an old work truck. I live near a desert so there are tons of old sun baked classic trucks for cheap. I've been drooling over the thought of buying one and painting it myself. Good video!
Where are you talking about?? I finally took a leap and started sanding an old camry, now there's no turning back. (My first time) I'm still looking for painting options. I want to do that with older vehicles too
When you have a dry spot just take a little of your reducer that you mixed your paint with and spray the dry area and it'll usually take away the dry look
Good job buddy, I paint semi trucks for a living and work with mostly single stage and quite a bit of single stage metallics. I noticed you start with a light coat but actually if you get a good solid coat on first, move onto your next panel and then come back to the last one with a dust coat to even out the modeling, that would keep things a little more even for you and would cut down on the dry spray of each panel. Just my opinion, you made it look good though.
When someone stops spraying in the middle of a panel I always cringe. You should start at one end of the vehicle and walk sideways maintaining the same speed and distance from the panel. You start flow off the panel and move onto it, travel the full distance and stop flow off of the panel on the opposite side.
@gringo loco2 it's true that it's not as easy for beginners to walk the whole vehicle, but you should 100% be working up to it. The difference is consistency, I don't care how good you are at blending each pass, you will never be able blend where you end your pass to the rest of the pass because of the amount of fluid being released. Hard to explain in a comment on UA-cam but basically where you stop will be covered more. This is a huge problem for metallics since you'll end up with a line of metallics where you stop on the panel (same thing for pearls and other additives). This might not be something that the average person sees or cares about especially with cheap jobs like the one in this video.
@@greghercher2068 meh, collision painter for 13 years here. only reason youve gotta walk a vehicle is if its candy or single stage paint. no issues panel painting with metallics or pearls in bc cc if you know what your doing.
Looks good my friend but one thing you don't wanna do is stop in the middle of a panel always go to the end it will keep you from getting light and dark spots. But for the most part it looks good man I like the color. I like to wet down the floor in the garage to keep any dust down. Good job brother nice truck
Way to go, I remember the dirt carport! I just did my first base, clear in the garage. Dark metallic, about to finish main body next weekend. Got to have the control coat! Good job again.
For base clear I've found the best thing to do is turn your psi up about 10 psi and spray a little further back to dust your 3rd coat on, metallics will blend in a little better. Single stage the key is keep the metallics wet so they can move around, thinning out your 3rd coat will give the dusting effect also.
Also consistancy in how you spray, top to bottom or bottom to top can affect how a metallic looks. I always try and spray top to bottom, sometimes I screw up and do a little out of order, but catch the mistake on 3rd blending out coat. You learn allot everytime you paint something, and I'm def not an expert, each paint job has been a metallic, go figure.
24 years spraying cars and I'm getting tired of everyone assuming it's all just a youtube video away !! This guy would actually be an extremely good painter with a few small changes and some good advice.
We don't necessarily assume that. Some of us just have cars/trucks that aren't worth pouring the money into a pro's services. And some of us like doing things ourselves and learning. That being said, what's this guy missing as far as technique goes?
@@alexovercast3359 not meant to insult anyone or what they want to achieve from a diy sense. Anyone trying to learn something new and gain something from it is fine by me, I learn everyday. There just seems to be videos everywhere on UA-cam that are full of really bad advice, for example..the type of paint used in this video is absolute rubbish, my spray booth cost me 50 grand..because painting a car in your garage will poison the shit out of you. If you have to, do it outside on a dry day..better for the lungs !! As far as technique, learning to trigger the gun (releasing the trigger while still moving at the end of each pass and pressing again coming back) is something that will help control paint blending into itself while moving around. Flicking your wrist all over the place is what most do ! Good luck with your project 👍
@Jeff Spicoli I'm from Ireland, even if I wanted to spray this crap I couldn't ! At least 15 years since I've used it, it's illegal in Europe for bodyshops to use this because of the high levels of voc's. I don't miss it 😂
@Jeff Spicoli not just Ireland but all of Europe, every paint has some level of voc's but it has to be under a certain level to be used and sold, VOC compliant. Major paint manufacturers only produce compliant paints nowadays, anything like this single stage acrylic metallics would not be available to buy here now, it's nasty stuff.
All the metallic’s I’ve paint I’ve always done base coat clear coat, comes out much better for me, but if your on a budget, this is another option, I’ve always used PPG products. Thanks for the video. Turned out great.
I have sprayed lots of single stage metallic..... 1. first coat fast reducer single spray even coat at 10 to 12 inches 2. second coat single spray 10 to 12 inches A bit heavier. 3rd coat I go control coat 12 to 16 inches Slow reducer. fast moving even further away only almost (dusting the surface) More reducer in 3rd coat 4th coat if needed (stripes in your metallic.) light dust slow reducer even and fast. again just like 3rd. FYI singe stage metallic dont last nearly as long as clear coat metallic. But cheap option. Sometimes you can even use a clear over the singe stage to get more life out of it. but you need to wait sometimes an hour or so before you recoat with clear. almost fully catalyzed but just a bit finger print to touch.
You need to lay that single stage alot heavier than you did. Don't be afraid to spray it heavy.. It's what gets you the mirror finish with single stage paint.
For single stage mettalic.... last coat, cross coat it or apply a further back mist coat to uniform the metallic. Or... Just scrape up another $100 and just clearcoat.
I'm a painter of 12 years I would have done the cab first and the bed the next day. Good work on single stage metallic. That can get ugly quick if you rush it. Trucks are a big job and it's tough to show the final coat fatigue when that wrist is hurting. Good job brother. Keep it up.
I wish I was still teaching (i'm retired now) Vocational Education because if I was I would show your videos to my students. They are awesome and you are a true motivator!
One thing I learned in school and In the body shops is bedsides and hoods especially you wanna go the whole length so front to back not leave any little strips or stop half way on the bedsides specially with metallics helps make the paint lay a lot flatter and cleaner in the end. But all in all it’s looking good man!
I bought some gunmetal gray Behr paint/primer-$43 a gallon at Home Depot and used a smooth weenie roller and painted my Prius, yours came out much better! Live and learn!
I been a auto body Detailer and welder but never painted an been learning about HPLV spray guns. Priming and base coats, clear coats and this vide was cool to see how the paint is done vause as I Said I cut and buffed for years but now want to learn to paint and this video was cool to watch from start to finish (prime to painting) thanks for the upload Brother!
It looks great. Paint work is 90% prep work. Your prep work looked good, for $100 bucks you can't complain. My advice for anyone starting off painting try single stage. It's very forgiving any runs can easily be sanded down, and it's a great easy and cheap way to get a good finish, like I said, paint work is 90% prep work.
The single stage paint looks awesome. I will try some from your eBay supplier. A few things I learned in a home shop with out a professional spray booth. The green body shop masking paper is good for priming but it will give off dust and primer particles on to your finish coat. It also gets cruddy from wet sanding. I always remasked over the green paper with the blue body shop paper (has a shiny /waxy face) before topcoat of paint. I preferred 3m 233+ masking tape. It bends nice, holds up to wet sanding and don't leave a sticky residue when removed. Keep up the great work and videos.
Many thanks! Definitely a big truck. Can you imagine, I did my crew cab step side in a much smaller makeshift shed on dirt floor.. 😬 but it turned out pretty great, if I do say so myself. 😅
Just a helpful hint. When spraying single stage metallic you have to constantly be shaking the gun between swipes. The metallic settles in the bottom..l learned this the hard way.
Get the sealed upside down cups for your gun. You can shake it every now and then while you spray. Helps keep the metallic even. Also if you put on heavy coats and your activator is slow the metallic will kind of settle and sag in the paint. But anyways good job man looks good.
Technically I don't think you are. But this is his method. He makes full passes at the end after he get a light coat. But it would be no different than blending a repair on a vehicle I would think.
I concur with this statement but i believe as lonh as you overlap the paint correctly and do full passes on the last coat it should be fine ..but then thats just my opinion
Great job! One idea is to break down to two smaller jobs by removing bed and painting it separately. This would help keep dry areas from getting the overspray.
I did this also. Couple of things for my first paint, one it was way more work then I had anticipated, and two I made the mistake of only buying one gallon and I think the paint is a tiny bit too thin in places. Will definitely try it again another day on another car.
I've seen people paint trucks before. They always start on the inside of the bed walls then roof and back their way out of the bed. And then split the truck in half and paint from front of bed to the back in one motion. And same from the front to the back of the cab.
Amazing man! I barely learning this painting stuff I bought a truck had a bad paint job so I've been watching a lot of UA-cam lately but your video is by furthest the best ! Love your work man! Wish you could paint my truck brother lol !
The common usage for the word dope where I come from stems from the type of pharmaceuticals one my find around a corner or cleaners. Clean = pure. So when I say dope quality. I mean the quality of work he produces is clean enough for someone like me to call it dope. Im sorry this offended you. God bless.
What a lot of people don't know is that candy paints are typically cheaper because most candy paints are lacquer based it's not an acrylic PPG it's gonna be a lacquer based paint and because they meet all requirements you could actually paint a car for a lot less money
Also maintaining the same air pressure throughout the entire is important with metallics and maintaining the same distance off the surface . Just my 2 cents .
Single stage metalic paint is ok you cant buff it out or polish it no matter how hard you try when i spray single stage metallic paints i mix in 3/4 of a gal of clear into the paint this will allow the paint to come out like glass and last for years i did a 71 Riviera back in 1996 and to this day 2021 it looks like it was painted two months ago
Bought a 2015 F150 for $1700 and may try to paint it after some practice. I sweat alot so keeping that off the surface is my main concern. I'm going to attempt to paint the new bumper, grill and headlight bezels first.
@@jasonboness3871 There are some really inexpensive base clear systems. Its very difficult to get even metallic distribution and good gloss at the same time with single stage.
Nice job man,look's pretty clean,i wouldn't worry about the dry area's,a quick nip and polish will sort them out,i'd much rather see a few dry areas then applying it too wet and having runs,keep up the good work,looking forward to your next budget job.
I'm surprised you didn't spray the entire length of the bed/doors to avoid metallic build-up. Did you notice any difference in the paint because of this?
The technique he mentioned using works well, wet the panel then spray a bit further back with a dusting while wet to evenly distribute the metallic(a) particles.
I’ll tell you a little secret to make that single stage pop a little bit better, add a gun cup 15-20oz of mixed Clearcoat per gallon. It makes it shine and spray better.
My Aunt and uncle are the people that sell this paint. They are great people and sell great products. Support a great family that is much deserving and buy their products!!
They are from Fairview right? I’ve driven up there and bought from them multiple times, painted a lot of jeeps with their paint!
@@AnsleyBuilt yes they are, they are about to move the business to wheaton to a much larger building that will suit their needs as well as a much nicer store front for customers to visit.
Hi max do they happen to have a website? I’m from North Carolina and would love to purchase some candy black cherry paint from them if they have that option
Do they offer a urethane version of this paint?
@@christiansalgado8584 they have a web site but everything I put a comment with anything close it gets deleted. I knowvyou can't post links to UA-cam but no matter what it gets deleted
Professional painter for 32 yrs, I give him alot of credit. I can remember how hard it was for me at the very beginning.....
For an old truck it looks great, it's better than when he started.
Nice job man, keep painting !!!!!!
Thank you, I appreciate your support! 🙏🏼
This was definitely a big project to tackle, especially going with a single stage metallic.
It's easy for someone to ignore all the hard work and criticize when something doesnt come out as planned, but I also read thru comments and take advice from people that bring their experiences to the channel.
Here's another project I did after this Silverado, if you could please take a look at ua-cam.com/video/cWDLyQhr4YQ/v-deo.html
I personally believe I did better just by reading a few helpful tips!
As a professional painter of 19 years I will support the above comment. Single stage is not an easy product, and being metallic it is even more challenging. For starters, you can't just stop and fix an error, you only get one shot. So indeed, you did a great job. My advice would be dividing the job into two parts: cab and bed. Second, maintain wet edge: imagine you are coloring truck with a marker but never take your hand off the paper. This will reduce dry shot areas. Overall- great job, man! You will only get better with each paint job👍
Hey James I made a comment about how much air pressure on the compressor someone needs to paint a vehicle, he never gave me a response maybe u can help me out
@@MarioMartinez-wh8qv
That's a loaded question, but if compressor can really keep up and you are running a regulator on the gun the single stage I use I spray at 2.5 bar......
I spray just a touch higher as that is my preference.....
Follow any tech sheets provided with material and use as a guide.
After that, weather, experience can change those settings day to day to some degree. Size of parts etc.
Hope this helps, good luck
@@MarioMartinez-wh8qv
Mario,
Feel free to contact me again for anymore help. If you are coming out of compressor with no regulation at the gun then you get whatever the compressor can give you.
Dude! I’ve been painting for 40 years and taught it at a skill center! Like you said it was a ranch truck. It great job for what it is. So many of the so called painters on UA-cam never use scotchbrite pads!
Those are the best to prepare the entire truck. Doing the roof first is a great idea to do. Mixing both gallons is a great idea also. For what it is you did a great job!
What Scotchbrite sanding pad do you use to sand vehicle you right the videos see on UA-cam they don't most of them using Scothbrite pad the regular sandpaper scratches up the surface more I been trying to paint for almost two years but only some months out the year don't have the right heater for painting in winter. Last year I was starting to use scuff pads and bought scuff paste but was using circular pads with a orbital sander.
For a first time prep and paint, while using a DIY paint booth. Wow. For just a non-professional paint job, I say, job well done. I've been using Scotch-Brite Hand Pads by the case since they came out. Many other wet and dry sanding products have come out that I use too. So many options for the painter these days from their equipment to their paint. Not like the old days of the 50s and 60s when I was a teenager learning to paint my cars. I remember runs and orange peel and the hours of more sanding.
@@JonHeckendorf The body shop I worked at our detailers used 0000 when wet sanding after paint. It always worked great.
I’m 12 minutes in, and I paused to pay you a well-deserved compliment! I appreciate your thoroughness, your skill, and that you’re showing it all at regular speed. Your editing and choice of music make it almost therapeutic to watch!
Thanks!!!
Came out great. I painted my car after watching your videos and I get compliments all the time. All thanks to your videos and some patience 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Am schooling too wait for results
Had no idea that this was even an option. Single stage and for $100! Made my day! Thank you!
Never ever ever spray any metallic in single stage..huge mistake..it can not be buffed evenly..you absolutely van not colorsand single stage mettallic..
Dont do it..this is huge misinformation..
This is one of my favorite UA-cam channels. Videos are educational, not “over talked,” and motivating. I really like his shop and mostly his perspective on the different paints, sprayers and all the painting tips that make a DIY guy the courage to put some paint on his truck.
Thanks dude ! Keep it up.
You are a god with your spray gun. Thank you for caring for your truck this way. I love it.
Wow! Not bad cleaning up an old work truck. I live near a desert so there are tons of old sun baked classic trucks for cheap. I've been drooling over the thought of buying one and painting it myself. Good video!
Where are you talking about??
I finally took a leap and started sanding an old camry, now there's no turning back. (My first time) I'm still looking for painting options. I want to do that with older vehicles too
My man you don't need to apologize for a low budget and cheap paint the truck looks amazing be proud bro
Just a word of advice on something like the bedsides Run the full length of the panel don't stop In the middle it will end up with hard lines
Im a novice & i was wondering about that. One reason. I need enough cfm to keep up?
_I agree and never should let off the trigger in passes you have to keep it wide open until the panel is complete._
When you have a dry spot just take a little of your reducer that you mixed your paint with and spray the dry area and it'll usually take away the dry look
Can you or anyone else, elaborate on this..?
@@JayLupe litterally just put the reducer in the spray gun and lightly dust abit on and it will allow it it to flow out better
Talking bout on paint or clear?
@@sinzacustomsandabp7462 to your clear
Really can’t you do that with clear coat as well
Good job buddy, I paint semi trucks for a living and work with mostly single stage and quite a bit of single stage metallics. I noticed you start with a light coat but actually if you get a good solid coat on first, move onto your next panel and then come back to the last one with a dust coat to even out the modeling, that would keep things a little more even for you and would cut down on the dry spray of each panel. Just my opinion, you made it look good though.
When someone stops spraying in the middle of a panel I always cringe. You should start at one end of the vehicle and walk sideways maintaining the same speed and distance from the panel. You start flow off the panel and move onto it, travel the full distance and stop flow off of the panel on the opposite side.
Damn Dude, it came out great....
@gringo loco2 it's true that it's not as easy for beginners to walk the whole vehicle, but you should 100% be working up to it. The difference is consistency, I don't care how good you are at blending each pass, you will never be able blend where you end your pass to the rest of the pass because of the amount of fluid being released. Hard to explain in a comment on UA-cam but basically where you stop will be covered more. This is a huge problem for metallics since you'll end up with a line of metallics where you stop on the panel (same thing for pearls and other additives).
This might not be something that the average person sees or cares about especially with cheap jobs like the one in this video.
I agree. I did the exact same thing thinking, "Why are you stopping???? Halfway?!?!?!"
@@kayakfishingcountry it's not the worst thing in the world but it's definitely not good for spraying pearls or metallics.
@@greghercher2068 meh, collision painter for 13 years here. only reason youve gotta walk a vehicle is if its candy or single stage paint. no issues panel painting with metallics or pearls in bc cc if you know what your doing.
Looks good my friend but one thing you don't wanna do is stop in the middle of a panel always go to the end it will keep you from getting light and dark spots. But for the most part it looks good man I like the color. I like to wet down the floor in the garage to keep any dust down. Good job brother nice truck
Way to go, I remember the dirt carport! I just did my first base, clear in the garage. Dark metallic, about to finish main body next weekend. Got to have the control coat! Good job again.
To get rid of the metallic banding, a wet coat of plain thinners for the last coat will level all the metallic flake in the paint.
Not true
I've done it for years.
For base clear I've found the best thing to do is turn your psi up about 10 psi and spray a little further back to dust your 3rd coat on, metallics will blend in a little better. Single stage the key is keep the metallics wet so they can move around, thinning out your 3rd coat will give the dusting effect also.
Also consistancy in how you spray, top to bottom or bottom to top can affect how a metallic looks. I always try and spray top to bottom, sometimes I screw up and do a little out of order, but catch the mistake on 3rd blending out coat. You learn allot everytime you paint something, and I'm def not an expert, each paint job has been a metallic, go figure.
You Americans have no idea how to paint 🤣🤣🤣
24 years spraying cars and I'm getting tired of everyone assuming it's all just a youtube video away !!
This guy would actually be an extremely good painter with a few small changes and some good advice.
We don't necessarily assume that. Some of us just have cars/trucks that aren't worth pouring the money into a pro's services. And some of us like doing things ourselves and learning. That being said, what's this guy missing as far as technique goes?
@@alexovercast3359 not meant to insult anyone or what they want to achieve from a diy sense. Anyone trying to learn something new and gain something from it is fine by me, I learn everyday.
There just seems to be videos everywhere on UA-cam that are full of really bad advice, for example..the type of paint used in this video is absolute rubbish, my spray booth cost me 50 grand..because painting a car in your garage will poison the shit out of you. If you have to, do it outside on a dry day..better for the lungs !!
As far as technique, learning to trigger the gun (releasing the trigger while still moving at the end of each pass and pressing again coming back) is something that will help control paint blending into itself while moving around.
Flicking your wrist all over the place is what most do !
Good luck with your project 👍
@Jeff Spicoli I'm from Ireland, even if I wanted to spray this crap I couldn't !
At least 15 years since I've used it, it's illegal in Europe for bodyshops to use this because of the high levels of voc's.
I don't miss it 😂
@Jeff Spicoli not just Ireland but all of Europe, every paint has some level of voc's but it has to be under a certain level to be used and sold, VOC compliant. Major paint manufacturers only produce compliant paints nowadays, anything like this single stage acrylic metallics would not be available to buy here now, it's nasty stuff.
All the metallic’s I’ve paint I’ve always done base coat clear coat, comes out much better for me, but if your on a budget, this is another option, I’ve always used PPG products. Thanks for the video. Turned out great.
So much work for a 16min video. Props.
I have sprayed lots of single stage metallic.....
1. first coat fast reducer single spray even coat at 10 to 12 inches
2. second coat single spray 10 to 12 inches A bit heavier.
3rd coat I go control coat 12 to 16 inches Slow reducer. fast moving even further away only almost (dusting the surface)
More reducer in 3rd coat
4th coat if needed (stripes in your metallic.) light dust slow reducer even and fast. again just like 3rd.
FYI singe stage metallic dont last nearly as long as clear coat metallic. But cheap option. Sometimes you can even use a clear over the singe stage to get more life out of it. but you need to wait sometimes an hour or so before you recoat with clear. almost fully catalyzed but just a bit finger print to touch.
Thanks Mike, I'm about to give up my painting projects, but will do it your way next time.
Looks great, Honestly I was drooling over the shop I so want one like that. Nicely done sir!
Truck looks amazing. Love the color. Thanks for such a great video. Limited talking and straight to the point.
You need to lay that single stage alot heavier than you did. Don't be afraid to spray it heavy.. It's what gets you the mirror finish with single stage paint.
Mmm, not with mettalics. The heavier you go, the messier it looks!.. All the metallics over saturate the area and look darker
For single stage mettalic.... last coat, cross coat it or apply a further back mist coat to uniform the metallic. Or... Just scrape up another $100 and just clearcoat.
Man looks a lot better than before, I think I’m going to try to paint my truck ,thanks for the video
Great job!!! The color turned out very very nice. Always seem chilled and relaxed. Cant wait to see it put all back together.
YOU have good gun technic,much respect painting single stage with a high metallic
I'm a painter of 12 years I would have done the cab first and the bed the next day. Good work on single stage metallic. That can get ugly quick if you rush it. Trucks are a big job and it's tough to show the final coat fatigue when that wrist is hurting. Good job brother. Keep it up.
I wish I was still teaching (i'm retired now) Vocational Education because if I was I would show your videos to my students. They are awesome and you are a true motivator!
One thing I learned in school and In the body shops is bedsides and hoods especially you wanna go the whole length so front to back not leave any little strips or stop half way on the bedsides specially with metallics helps make the paint lay a lot flatter and cleaner in the end. But all in all it’s looking good man!
I would be very happy with that paint job..
I bought some gunmetal gray Behr paint/primer-$43 a gallon at Home Depot and used a smooth weenie roller and painted my Prius, yours came out much better!
Live and learn!
Thanks for the video. I am slowly learning this art in hopes of painting my own motorcycle parts. It's getting too expensive to have others do it.
Looks great! My clear coat is fading / peeling and so it’s time to paint my 2006 Chevy Silverado supercab. Dark gray metallic.
I been a auto body Detailer and welder but never painted an been learning about HPLV spray guns. Priming and base coats, clear coats and this vide was cool to see how the paint is done vause as I Said I cut and buffed for years but now want to learn to paint and this video was cool to watch from start to finish (prime to painting) thanks for the upload Brother!
Looks good brother, just remember if your not making full passes fan out the stops and starts so get get high build areas. Looks really good
The steps he takes makes the paint job great...
Prepping is the secret for a good job...Well it is not a secret anymore...Right?
It looks great. Paint work is 90% prep work. Your prep work looked good, for $100 bucks you can't complain. My advice for anyone starting off painting try single stage. It's very forgiving any runs can easily be sanded down, and it's a great easy and cheap way to get a good finish, like I said, paint work is 90% prep work.
Great job as always! I like that color. Really looks almost factory as well
The dry spots are from breaking it up door by door. Walk the whole length of the vehicle each pass
Perfect color for that particular truck, I think. Great job and thanks for sharing!
Great job....love it....Your Great preparation was the secret....I was always told your preparation is your paint job....you nailed it...👍👍👍
Bro thank you for saying where you got the paint. I have been searching for cheaper car paint for the color on my 50 chevy truck. Your a life saver
I was wondering about that paint, thanks .For a work truck, keeps a guy looking good.
Yes sir, that's exactly what it is! 👍
@@GTsPerformance by chance are you in Corpus Christi
Good job kid. We need more guys like you nice guy.
These are excellent trucks when you keep them running and looking good. 👍👍👍
The single stage paint looks awesome. I will try some from your eBay supplier. A few things I learned in a home shop with out a professional spray booth. The green body shop masking paper is good for priming but it will give off dust and primer particles on to your finish coat. It also gets cruddy from wet sanding. I always remasked over the green paper with the blue body shop paper (has a shiny /waxy face) before topcoat of paint. I preferred 3m 233+ masking tape. It bends nice, holds up to wet sanding and don't leave a sticky residue when removed. Keep up the great work and videos.
Looks awesome I’m a first timer and just getting ideas on how to diy 👍🏼👍🏼
That's a big old truck to paint. The result looks good. I'd be bloody pleased with that. I need a yank truck in my life!
Many thanks! Definitely a big truck.
Can you imagine, I did my crew cab step side in a much smaller makeshift shed on dirt floor.. 😬 but it turned out pretty great, if I do say so myself. 😅
Very informative. Thanks. You did a great job. Keep it up, you never know where your efforts will take you. 💪🏽
Watching here from philippines.. I understand becouse i am a painter.. Its hard so spray a metalic i have a lot of experince.. Good job sir..
Just a helpful hint. When spraying single stage metallic you have to constantly be shaking the gun between swipes. The metallic settles in the bottom..l learned this the hard way.
Back yard truck 👍
Gives me inspiration to paint my 83 Chevy
Get the sealed upside down cups for your gun. You can shake it every now and then while you spray. Helps keep the metallic even. Also if you put on heavy coats and your activator is slow the metallic will kind of settle and sag in the paint. But anyways good job man looks good.
Looks good,thanks for taking the time to do a great video.
Great job for single stage metallic. I started painting in the 80’s spraying single stage like that. That’s not easy at all to do.
You’re not supposed to stop mid panel. Make full passes from front to back
Technically I don't think you are. But this is his method. He makes full passes at the end after he get a light coat. But it would be no different than blending a repair on a vehicle I would think.
@@natevanlandingham1945 nah man it doesn’t matter, you will always see that start stop point
I was wondering about that
I concur with this statement but i believe as lonh as you overlap the paint correctly and do full passes on the last coat it should be fine ..but then thats just my opinion
Especially, with metallic.
Great job! One idea is to break down to two smaller jobs by removing bed and painting it separately. This would help keep dry areas from getting the overspray.
Yup! 😉👍
I did that on my last and current paintjob. Way better!
I have the same exact truck . I'm inspired to try and paint it myself
What a mean az job 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉, truck would be back in use with a sweet az paint finish 👌.
❤from New Zealand supporters ❤
try to start in the middle of the hood and work towards you to keep from bumping or dragging the fresh paint. 9:39
I use the push pull method so I end then start in middle of hood to keep a wet edge.
@@mikeobrien3744 that works great until your clothing or the hose drags the wet paint.
Looking great ! That weather was horrible, also a Texan. I really like that color. Please show it together and buffed !
I did this also. Couple of things for my first paint, one it was way more work then I had anticipated, and two I made the mistake of only buying one gallon and I think the paint is a tiny bit too thin in places. Will definitely try it again another day on another car.
You always amaze me. From your very first video and humble beginning to now. Great job look forward to seeing more.videos
YOUR GOOD MAN IVE BEEN AT IT OVER 40 YRS YOUR LOOKING GOOD
I've seen people paint trucks before. They always start on the inside of the bed walls then roof and back their way out of the bed. And then split the truck in half and paint from front of bed to the back in one motion. And same from the front to the back of the cab.
Amazing man! I barely learning this painting stuff I bought a truck had a bad paint job so I've been watching a lot of UA-cam lately but your video is by furthest the best ! Love your work man! Wish you could paint my truck brother lol !
Budget or not man. That was dope quality in your work.
The common usage for the word dope where I come from stems from the type of pharmaceuticals one my find around a corner or cleaners. Clean = pure.
So when I say dope quality. I mean the quality of work he produces is clean enough for someone like me to call it dope. Im sorry this offended you.
God bless.
It really turned out nice. For what it is and a limited budget. It is and will be I'm sure very very presentable. Thumbs Up !
Good to see you back
Man it’s nice to see your videos views are growing! congrats man keep up the hard work brother.
I can tell by that first coat of base you know how to paint. You have to be not scared to go too light on the first coat for sure.
Great prep-work. Excellent 👍
Damn...looks pretty good. And that color is perfect for a truck.
I like your style man , just everyday guy doing the job best he can just like I do!! Looks great!!
What a lot of people don't know is that candy paints are typically cheaper because most candy paints are lacquer based it's not an acrylic PPG it's gonna be a lacquer based paint and because they meet all requirements you could actually paint a car for a lot less money
I use slow reducer for metallics as a rule... I like the color though!
I match the reducer to temp, but always on the slow side
Also maintaining the same air pressure throughout the entire is important with metallics and maintaining the same distance off the surface . Just my 2 cents .
I think it's beautiful good job bud!
You did an awesome painting job brother, keep it up the good work
Nice paint job. If my paint job comes out as good as that I'd be glad.
Single stage metalic paint is ok you cant buff it out or polish it no matter how hard you try when i spray single stage metallic paints i mix in 3/4 of a gal of clear into the paint this will allow the paint to come out like glass and last for years i did a 71 Riviera back in 1996 and to this day 2021 it looks like it was painted two months ago
Bought a 2015 F150 for $1700 and may try to paint it after some practice. I sweat alot so keeping that off the surface is my main concern. I'm going to attempt to paint the new bumper, grill and headlight bezels first.
As former bodyshop painter you did an amazing job...
Nice job .
Always use a block when sanding. You will get grooves from finger pressure. Single stage is not the best choice for a metallic.
it's 100 bucks....
@@jasonboness3871 I hear you, but proper technique cost zero!
@@theoriginalmungaman but both base and clear will...
@@jasonboness3871 There are some really inexpensive base clear systems. Its very difficult to get even metallic distribution and good gloss at the same time with single stage.
@gringo loco2 I get my Speed-Coat for $59.00 plus shipping. Great stuff!
Nice work very efficient you know what you are boing.
Looks good for single stage. Very nice work.
Nice. You did a great job on that truck.
Nice job man,look's pretty clean,i wouldn't worry about the dry area's,a quick nip and polish will sort them out,i'd much rather see a few dry areas then applying it too wet and having runs,keep up the good work,looking forward to your next budget job.
Nice work 👍🏾 thanks for explaining your spraying tenique.
Make it easier next time you paint by deflating the tires it makes a huge difference by being able to spay more evenly!
Or sit it on a midrise lift
Nice job with that 8-1. And agree
Very well done, great skill for a dyi project….bravo
great job...you can reduce overspray with a good handwash when the paint cures to hard...
You prepped it nicely, bro.
God Bless You Bro. Beautiful job. Real talk
Awesome job Bro that's how I'm learning thank you
Much better than I could have done!
I'm surprised you didn't spray the entire length of the bed/doors to avoid metallic build-up. Did you notice any difference in the paint because of this?
I saw that too
The technique he mentioned using works well, wet the panel then spray a bit further back with a dusting while wet to evenly distribute the metallic(a) particles.
I’ll tell you a little secret to make that single stage pop a little bit better, add a gun cup 15-20oz of mixed Clearcoat per gallon. It makes it shine and spray better.
You did a great job with what you had looks good 👍