Amazing video. I worked under a professional for a short time years ago and your video reminded me of the things I forgot. Very comprehensive and well made. Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated.
Now 2022, it’s been 11 years since this video aired. The worst blocking issue it almost two fold on the same vehicle. This is my 67 C10 truck. #1 area hard to block is the center of the front hood. It has a peak, reverse crown and convex areas that change from from to rear. I used a contour gauge to form a block from a hood in the package my son bought. Once drawn, 32 grit on die grinder created the front, but it get smaller at the rear. Make a second one and keep going. I was exhausted until I got into the reverse crown that changes to larger toward the rear as you progress down the side, front to rear. Having built a block that fits helps duplicate both sides so close you could not tell. As you mentioned, but black epoxy, covered the a gray high build, let’s you know once you pass thru primer into a sealer into a different color. Thanks.
I've been an autobody hobbyist and have run a small shop since the mid '70s and it's good to see some of the tips you have here. It's always good to learn new things. Thanks for posting!
There are wet sanding and dry sanding methods. Either can be used and both are effective. And you are correct, you want to final sand before painting with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper before painting. Thanks for watching!
Donnie Smith. Hello! I have a question if I may. I am wet sanding 2K primer with 400 and I hit metal on some edges. My question is Do I have to put primer again on that expoused metal and if I do what primer? 2K or epoxy primer? Remember im wet sanding for paint, thanks.👍🇺🇸
Thank you so much for the tips. I'm restoring a 1959 Glastron Fiberglass boat and just primed the hull and wasn't exactly sure what to do next to prep for the finish coat. This video was exactly what I need to see.
I am going to start a boat project soon. I would use guide coat and final sand the boat with 400 grit sandpaper. Then you should be ready to paint. You can finish it like a car. You can also use a gel coat, which is a little thicker, but does not have the gloss level as automotive base and clear. This lesson will help you out with the prep process. www.collisionblast.com/paint-prep/ Thanks for watching.
Leaving it masked off is fine except for when actually using "some" of the extra extra high build Polyester, Epoxy Primers. As the build that it creates will/can leave such a hard/built up edge/line depending on the "masked situation." Plus, applying different stages of primer over the same tape/paper "can" make it a miserable bytch to pull off/unmask. Also? Leaving the used paper can cause LOTTA extra dust/debris that just ends up in your primer being shot, and on some primers? Cause it to "fuzz up" more and ya spend MORE time sanding the stuff vs just using more tape/paper/painters plastic to remask....Just my 2 centavos. Keep a GRINDIN! 👍
The Carlsberg of priming and blocking: Probably the best tutorial in the world. This is excellent and really helpful, especially the explanation on when to stop or redo.
I specialize in wheel repair and reconditioning but I was given the opportunity to work on body and wheel and these videos have helped tremendously. Thanks
I watch my son do this. Now I understand more from your video. I want to help restore a Bertone X 1/9 . Tomorrow, I sand the hood he primed Saturday...carefully. Thank you for explaining so much. We did a VW Bug last month. Beautiful. Learning auto body work is so fun, I barely cook anymore. We have nice cars but we are hungry.
DIY How To Paint A Car School Good idea! We finished the Bertone and it is nice! You teach everything exactly like Ben does, and he is a perfectionist. Now I know he is not obsessing. priming, sanding,( priming), sanding. basecoat, clear, sanding, sanding,...Perfect! Have a nice summer.
Best Video series on UA-cam. I am by no mean the best bodyman but I can hold my own. I was passing on knowledge to my friends and they did not believe me about blocking and guide coats until they saw your videos. Bunch of rookies.. Keep up the good job. Pass on the knowledge...
10:50........"Now let's talk about blocking technique"......the 30 degree cross for great shine ......This is new and amazing to me thank you and happy Christmas! ....
Saving $$$ ALWAYS costs more in the long run, 3 years later I'm re doing my bloody hood cause I was being cheap and or lazy and dumb Thanks for the videos mate great refresher courses
I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. Ive painter dozens of guitars flawlessly, but when it came to my car, im extremely petrified of the repair. Im only at the primer stage, but your videos have given me a lot of confidence. Thanks again!
I wish I had found this video a year ago! I've got a 1975 Trans AM that I stripped down to bare metal and have epoxy primed. Looking forward to filler priming and blocking now that I've seen this. Thanks!
Awsome thankyou im in australia im moulding monaro bonnet scoop in and found your video very helpful i dont have any skills in body or paint work and have no help the people i no with experience back yard painters seem to no alot about nothing you have sumed the guide coat up for me as i couldn't work out the purpose of sandind every bit of black paint off and still be left with low points with no paint thanks your presentation is clear helpful and detailed keep up the good work
This may help some people sanding curves, I use old radiator hoses and heater hoses on curves, I have fender flares on my Camaro and it worked great getting them just right, I just wrap the sand paper around the hose and go at it, works great.
I've watched several of your videos tonight and find them interesting, I'm no professional but try and do my best when I can but some people just don't understand how much work goes into even the smallest repair and the price of everything has went up and they wonder why it cost so much to fix the vehicle. I just did a F250 for a guy and did a lot of work to it, if it where me the truck wasn't worth the money it took to fix what I fixed
Great video and i gueas the best advise i could give is to wet the whole car before paint , that will show you any imperfections when looking down the panels. If you are having a hard time getting the lines out use a da file softly but quickly. An older friend helped me with that years ago and the black car came out slick. Keep up the great work!
I see why it's so expensive to get a good paint job. I'm a good mechanic but body work and paint is an art in itself. Working on a 1990 ZR-1 and it has so many curves on it. It's white and I'm keeping it white, all the factory paint has like little bumps/bubbles and some spyder cracks. I think I have bit off more than I can chew. It takes a lot of patience and a certain feel. Thanks for your videos, they really help a novice like me a lot. 👍👍
Thank you for the good video. Restoring my 1971 Lemans Sport convertible, and just cannot afford to pay the 10-15 grand I've been quoted by several for a good street paint presentation. Most shops seem to think concours or nothing. I found a mobile soda blasting company that will do soda blast at my garage. The car is relatively clean of rust with some typical body dings and some wavy panels. I figure if I can do the bodywork and prep, I can save a bundle to then have it professionally painted. Again, thank you.
I"m a retired Auto Body technician, yes we are Auto Body Technician's not Body Men. Any way this man sure knows his trade. Thanks for the great video....Canada.
Auto body technicians never retire. Idk who youre trying to pull the wool over. I bet you are doing your own projects at a minimum, that's actually what I am doing currently finishing up a 1965 impala (factory full restore every bolt removed and done correct.
Donnie Smith. Hello! What should I do if I did the body work and of course I thought my body work was really good on a hood but after using Eastwood contour primer I used 320 and some metal showed up. Now im confused. Should I spray some epoxy primer in that small area then sanded down and spray 2K primer? Thanks and love the videos, thanks for the time and effort you put into them👍.
MrElPoderozo1 definitely use the 2kp- depending on the color of the car you may want to hide the work by spraying a silver paint in that area. Its a 90's trick me and some friends came up with for ppg/matrix systems. Good luck
Liutenant General. Thank you for answering me. So it doesn't matter if it is showing some expoused metal as I was feathering down the Eastwood Contour primer? I can spray the Eastwood 2K primer over the metal and it should be ok? Thanks again for your time 👍
As I have had some previous diy experience with bodywork and spraypainting your tips an advice have worked for me,the guide coat bit definitely worked on my m/cycle fuel tank,and the end result was better than all my previous diy work,true,proper prep is required for good end result,kind regards.
FINALLY, an instructional video that explains everything I was wanting to know about prepping, priming, blocking and using guide coat!!! Subscribed and thankyou for also considering the people on a budget! I already threw a lot of money out on the rustoleum paint roller technique only to go back to step one again because I either didn't prep right or because crutial information about prepping were left out. Lots of wasted sandpaper, paint and disappointment. I wont be using a spray gun but the techniques you described will help a lot
I am glad you found this useful Check out my video page with more prep, prime and block videos. I think this will help you as well. CollisionBlast.com/PaintPrepVideos Thanks for watching.
Hi Donny, I asked you a question on another video and would be grateful if could tell me what the main differences are between "sandable" primer and filler primer is? Also is it okay to spot spray areas with bare metal with etch primer and then go over the whole panel with the sandable or surfacer? Thankyou.
If you're blocking and you get down to bare metal you can't block that area anymore. Because your sandpaper won't sand the metal but will sand everything around it. So the metal will end up being high if you keep blocking there. Just as I was making this comment I came to the point in the video where he basically said the same thing. Oh well. Thanks for the video it was easy to follow and informative.
well glad I found this video before I waste more time on my paint job. Finally a vid that has all the right information and is straight to the point. Cheers mate
I needed a video to refresh my body work, this was the best video, I have a 7 trans am primed and guide coated going to get it going here soon before boot camp :) thank you sir.
Awesome...I am glad you receive the sander and like the sander. Be sure to post some pics and videos of your project on my Collision Blast Facebook page! I hope you get good use out of the sander.
I know what you are talking about. There are really no universal procedures for these newer cars. It is getting to where each specific make and model has their own repair procedures. You really need to get the manufacture recommended procedures for these new steels. The industry is definitely changing!
Outstanding. To say the least... Im going to use his methods . like NOW... Yes ive tipped the block.. Yes i used tbe walmart paint. . ive done the dont's... It is now time for the do it correctly. Tnsbk you
An excellent tutorial and source of information on block sanding, the best I've found around. Thanks for your efforts to share your knowledge and expertise in this work.
Starting with 320 grit ensures that the paper will roll into and over imperfections. START WITH COURSE PAPER 80-150. Course paper properly cuts the highs and levels to the lows. Too fine a paper (even with a block) will often roll over the imperfection.
Donnie I love your videos, you provide with so much information that could be the difference between an ok job and a great finish. I have a question though, once you block sand and you end up with low spots, do I just try to level them those spot up with body filler again or glaze putty? or should I simply keep block sanding till everything is leveled?.
I was taught to block primer with 320 grit. If everything is okay, then I would wet sand it by hand with 400 grit and that was the last thing to do as far as sanding goes.
Amazing video. I worked under a professional for a short time years ago and your video reminded me of the things I forgot. Very comprehensive and well made. Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated.
I agree with everything your say'n and I've learned these things over the years. The more you do it, the better you get.
Now 2022, it’s been 11 years since this video aired. The worst blocking issue it almost two fold on the same vehicle. This is my 67 C10 truck. #1 area hard to block is the center of the front hood. It has a peak, reverse crown and convex areas that change from from to rear. I used a contour gauge to form a block from a hood in the package my son bought. Once drawn, 32 grit on die grinder created the front, but it get smaller at the rear. Make a second one and keep going. I was exhausted until I got into the reverse crown that changes to larger toward the rear as you progress down the side, front to rear. Having built a block that fits helps duplicate both sides so close you could not tell.
As you mentioned, but black epoxy, covered the a gray high build, let’s you know once you pass thru primer into a sealer into a different color.
Thanks.
I've been an autobody hobbyist and have run a small shop since the mid '70s and it's good to see some of the tips you have here. It's always good to learn new things. Thanks for posting!
There are wet sanding and dry sanding methods. Either can be used and both are effective. And you are correct, you want to final sand before painting with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper before painting. Thanks for watching!
Donnie Smith. Hello! I have a question if I may. I am wet sanding 2K primer with 400 and I hit metal on some edges. My question is Do I have to put primer again on that expoused metal and if I do what primer? 2K or epoxy primer? Remember im wet sanding for paint, thanks.👍🇺🇸
Finish sand 800 for silvers.
Thank you so much for the tips. I'm restoring a 1959 Glastron Fiberglass boat and just primed the hull and wasn't exactly sure what to do next to prep for the finish coat. This video was exactly what I need to see.
I am going to start a boat project soon. I would use guide coat and final sand the boat with 400 grit sandpaper. Then you should be ready to paint. You can finish it like a car. You can also use a gel coat, which is a little thicker, but does not have the gloss level as automotive base and clear. This lesson will help you out with the prep process. www.collisionblast.com/paint-prep/ Thanks for watching.
Leaving it masked off is fine except for when actually using "some" of the extra extra high build Polyester, Epoxy Primers. As the build that it creates will/can leave such a hard/built up edge/line depending on the "masked situation." Plus, applying different stages of primer over the same tape/paper "can" make it a miserable bytch to pull off/unmask. Also? Leaving the used paper can cause LOTTA extra dust/debris that just ends up in your primer being shot, and on some primers? Cause it to "fuzz up" more and ya spend MORE time sanding the stuff vs just using more tape/paper/painters plastic to remask....Just my 2 centavos. Keep a GRINDIN! 👍
The Carlsberg of priming and blocking: Probably the best tutorial in the world.
This is excellent and really helpful, especially the explanation on when to stop or redo.
Glad it was helpful!
@@CarAddictGarage 👌
I specialize in wheel repair and reconditioning but I was given the opportunity to work on body and wheel and these videos have helped tremendously. Thanks
I watch my son do this. Now I understand more from your video. I want to help restore a Bertone X 1/9 . Tomorrow, I sand the hood he primed Saturday...carefully. Thank you for explaining so much. We did a VW Bug last month. Beautiful. Learning auto body work is so fun, I barely cook anymore. We have nice cars but we are hungry.
Patty Sherwood lol...I am glad the videos are useful. I guess you can hit McDonald's!
DIY How To Paint A Car School Good idea! We finished the Bertone and it is nice! You teach everything exactly like Ben does, and he is a perfectionist. Now I know he is not obsessing. priming, sanding,( priming), sanding. basecoat, clear, sanding, sanding,...Perfect! Have a nice summer.
Best Video series on UA-cam. I am by no mean the best bodyman but I can hold my own. I was passing on knowledge to my friends and they did not believe me about blocking and guide coats until they saw your videos. Bunch of rookies.. Keep up the good job. Pass on the knowledge...
10:50........"Now let's talk about blocking technique"......the 30 degree cross for great shine ......This is new and amazing to me thank you and happy Christmas!
....
Saving $$$ ALWAYS costs more in the long run, 3 years later I'm re doing my bloody hood cause I was being cheap and or lazy and dumb
Thanks for the videos mate great refresher courses
I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. Ive painter dozens of guitars flawlessly, but when it came to my car, im extremely petrified of the repair. Im only at the primer stage, but your videos have given me a lot of confidence. Thanks again!
Nick Dominguez I am glad you find the videos useful…Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing Donnie.. Makes my finished job the quality that I'm looking for. Your teaching technique is easy to follow..
Best explanations on block sanding I've seen yet. Love the boat analogy. This is going to be very helpful for my resto. Thanks!
I wish I had found this video a year ago! I've got a 1975 Trans AM that I stripped down to bare metal and have epoxy primed. Looking forward to filler priming and blocking now that I've seen this. Thanks!
No nonsense video on how to,paint your car properly. The best one on the web.
Thanks for watching.
Awsome thankyou im in australia im moulding monaro bonnet scoop in and found your video very helpful i dont have any skills in body or paint work and have no help the people i no with experience back yard painters seem to no alot about nothing you have sumed the guide coat up for me as i couldn't work out the purpose of sandind every bit of black paint off and still be left with low points with no paint thanks your presentation is clear helpful and detailed keep up the good work
This may help some people sanding curves, I use old radiator hoses and heater hoses on curves, I have fender flares on my Camaro and it worked great getting them just right, I just wrap the sand paper around the hose and go at it, works great.
cloak andswagger
I use PVC pipe for the same purpose but it stays rigid
c andswagger;;soft blocks work great on curves,.
cloak andswagger Good idea!
This is by far the best explanatory video about how and when to blocks and. Excellent work sir
ua-cam.com/video/6CDxfGjY3LA/v-deo.html
I've watched several of your videos tonight and find them interesting, I'm no professional but try and do my best when I can but some people just don't understand how much work goes into even the smallest repair and the price of everything has went up and they wonder why it cost so much to fix the vehicle. I just did a F250 for a guy and did a lot of work to it, if it where me the truck wasn't worth the money it took to fix what I fixed
Thanks bro. It's nice to get tips from a professional without feeling like it's a sermon.
Great video and i gueas the best advise i could give is to wet the whole car before paint , that will show you any imperfections when looking down the panels. If you are having a hard time getting the lines out use a da file softly but quickly. An older friend helped me with that years ago and the black car came out slick. Keep up the great work!
I see why it's so expensive to get a good paint job. I'm a good mechanic but body work and paint is an art in itself. Working on a 1990 ZR-1 and it has so many curves on it. It's white and I'm keeping it white, all the factory paint has like little bumps/bubbles and some spyder cracks. I think I have bit off more than I can chew. It takes a lot of patience and a certain feel. Thanks for your videos, they really help a novice like me a lot. 👍👍
Thank you for the good video. Restoring my 1971 Lemans Sport convertible, and just cannot afford to pay the 10-15 grand I've been quoted by several for a good street paint presentation. Most shops seem to think concours or nothing. I found a mobile soda blasting company that will do soda blast at my garage. The car is relatively clean of rust with some typical body dings and some wavy panels. I figure if I can do the bodywork and prep, I can save a bundle to then have it professionally painted. Again, thank you.
I"m a retired Auto Body technician, yes we are Auto Body Technician's not Body Men. Any way this man sure knows his trade. Thanks for the great video....Canada.
Yes, technicians...and cars are becoming more complex every day. Thanks for watching and for your comments.
Auto body technicians never retire. Idk who youre trying to pull the wool over. I bet you are doing your own projects at a minimum, that's actually what I am doing currently finishing up a 1965 impala (factory full restore every bolt removed and done correct.
Donnie Smith. Hello! What should I do if I did the body work and of course I thought my body work was really good on a hood but after using Eastwood contour primer I used 320 and some metal showed up. Now im confused. Should I spray some epoxy primer in that small area then sanded down and spray 2K primer? Thanks and love the videos, thanks for the time and effort you put into them👍.
MrElPoderozo1 definitely use the 2kp- depending on the color of the car you may want to hide the work by spraying a silver paint in that area. Its a 90's trick me and some friends came up with for ppg/matrix systems.
Good luck
Liutenant General. Thank you for answering me. So it doesn't matter if it is showing some expoused metal as I was feathering down the Eastwood Contour primer?
I can spray the Eastwood 2K primer over the metal and it should be ok? Thanks again for your time 👍
Great video,learned a lot,about to venture out on my first prep job to save some money and this helped a lot.Thanks
You packed a lot of good useful info into this video. Thanks for taking the time to film it!!
As I have had some previous diy experience with bodywork and spraypainting your tips an advice have worked for me,the guide coat bit definitely worked on my m/cycle fuel tank,and the end result was better than all my previous diy work,true,proper prep is required for good end result,kind regards.
FINALLY, an instructional video that explains everything I was wanting to know about prepping, priming, blocking and using guide coat!!! Subscribed and thankyou for also considering the people on a budget! I already threw a lot of money out on the rustoleum paint roller technique only to go back to step one again because I either didn't prep right or because crutial information about prepping were left out. Lots of wasted sandpaper, paint and disappointment. I wont be using a spray gun but the techniques you described will help a lot
I am glad you found this useful Check out my video page with more prep, prime and block videos. I think this will help you as well. CollisionBlast.com/PaintPrepVideos Thanks for watching.
Hi Donny, I asked you a question on another video and would be grateful if could tell me what the main differences are between "sandable" primer and filler primer is? Also is it okay to spot spray areas with bare metal with etch primer and then go over the whole panel with the sandable or surfacer? Thankyou.
Also the etch dries a little smooth, worried it won't have enough adhesion.
Daym dude your really good!
Ericthecarguy sent me here.
Thanks, yeah, I like watching some of Ericthecarguy videos too.
Which video does he mention this channel?
I would like to work under Donnie Smith on a few projects! Great instructor!!!
Thanks!
Great advice!My GTO is gonna look good.Your adding value to my car.Got to have patience when you dont do this every day.
If you're blocking and you get down to bare metal you can't block that area anymore. Because your sandpaper won't sand the metal but will sand everything around it. So the metal will end up being high if you keep blocking there. Just as I was making this comment I came to the point in the video where he basically said the same thing. Oh well. Thanks for the video it was easy to follow and informative.
Thanks very helpful and hope to be trying is soon. Also a delight to watch such a video without the bad language
Thanks for watching. I make all my videos safe and friendly for everyone to watch.
well glad I found this video before I waste more time on my paint job. Finally a vid that has all the right information and is straight to the point. Cheers mate
I am glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and have a great day!
I needed a video to refresh my body work, this was the best video, I have a 7 trans am primed and guide coated going to get it going here soon before boot camp :) thank you sir.
thank you. I'm new when it comes to sanding and blocking. Great tutorial now I know what type of block to use in different places
Glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching.
Well done you made my job neat street THANK you
Thanks for the class.... I'm right into block sanding now.
Paint genius right here. Every word is gospel.
I`ts very pleasant watch the masters of the trade share the right knowledge"
Thanks Dan!
Awesome...I am glad you receive the sander and like the sander. Be sure to post some pics and videos of your project on my Collision Blast Facebook page! I hope you get good use out of the sander.
I know what you are talking about. There are really no universal procedures for these newer cars. It is getting to where each specific make and model has their own repair procedures. You really need to get the manufacture recommended procedures for these new steels. The industry is definitely changing!
Outstanding. To say the least... Im going to use his methods . like NOW... Yes ive tipped the block.. Yes i used tbe walmart paint. . ive done the dont's... It is now time for the do it correctly. Tnsbk you
Tips was a lot of help was unsure what to do when coming to bare metal when block sanding it 16 restoring a 65 mustang 289 4 speed k code car
u r a wonderful teacher really
Donnie that was an outstanding explanation of proper block sanding technique and proper use of tools. Great Job! Great video!
Thanks!
Thanks. I think I am ready to make my first attempt.
Thanks so much for this
great series by a real professional, keep up the good work, I have not only learned a lot but also refreshed my memory on a couple of basic methods
Thanks for commenting and for watching.
Thanks for taking the time to teach and share your knowledge
Thaaaank youuuuuuuu, very very informative, will do, and im off & running.
An excellent tutorial and source of information on block sanding, the best I've found around. Thanks for your efforts to share your knowledge and expertise in this work.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
U made a huge point
Thanks you brother
I love your fringe.
Starting with 320 grit ensures that the paper will roll into and over imperfections.
START WITH COURSE PAPER 80-150. Course paper properly cuts the highs and levels to the lows. Too fine a paper (even with a block) will often roll over the imperfection.
I learned a lot. Thank you
I'm glad to hear that. Thanks for watching.
Excellent and very informative thank you.
I love the powder Waze year I hate the spray paint or the spray Guide coat
Outstanding videos, excellent presentation.
Nice analogy about the boat and the waves, great job keep it up
Great video I love the way you explain things simply and down to earth big 👍 and subscribed
when i use to do full paint jobs i would guide coat on the hole car to find lows and highs
I agree, it works great for that!
I certainly learned a lot. Thank you for a great presentation.
Good info. Thank You
thanks Donnie, I appreciate you doing the videos. Keep up the good job.
Block sanding by hand is the way to go, I agree. Do you re apply guide coat in between 220 and 320 stages?
Nice & simply talk Donnie. Than ks for making it understandable.
Paisano
Thank you very good explanation
Makes a lot more sense now thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Awesome video! great help Donnie! Mike... New Zealand.
great video,very informative,especially (long block)
+Jay Robertson Thanks for watching.
Thanks, this was very informative and helpful.
thanks u . u been very helpful
Thanks for the video... very informative
INformative for rookies like me.
Thanks for watching!
Donnie, very well presented!
Nice video...great explanation, very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Guid coat try pastel chalk it works and you can in many colors and cheap
Great video. Just found you on UA-cam. Great teacher. I’m a subscriber
Donnie I love your videos, you provide with so much information that could be the difference between an ok job and a great finish. I have a question though, once you block sand and you end up with low spots, do I just try to level them those spot up with body filler again or glaze putty? or should I simply keep block sanding till everything is leveled?.
Excellent. Thank you
Thanks 4 that hint
😊 Donny know I can eat a donut 🍩😂😂
U go Guy
Always learn when I watch. Thank you
Great videos.
Great job
I was taught to block primer with 320 grit. If everything is okay, then I would wet sand it by hand with 400 grit and that was the last thing to do as far as sanding goes.
Thanks for the information
Great tips and techniques my man!!!..awesome job on the video!!
👍🏻👍🏻
i was almost not. gonna thumbs up .. but then i saw the man ! THE FONZ !! EYYYYY?
Thanks for the great tips! Very helpful!
+JosephDR You're welcome, thanks for watching.
What blocks do you use can you make a video of all your blocks please?
great information
Acrylic lacquer flat black nappa same as guide coat