Blocking The Details: Smooth Flat Mirror Transitions Every time
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Blocking the details and getting a mirror finish in your transitions can be tricky. In this video we break down the methods we use to ensure the best possible end result. From block selection too techniques we will get you pointed in the right direction. After all, no one wants to put in all this work to see ripples in their finale custom paint.
#SylvestersCustoms
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Filmed and Produced by Blown Grit Productions:
/ blowngrit
Sylvesters Customs Instagram:
/ sylvesterscustoms
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Product Links
Primer supplies:
3m Respirator: amzn.to/3GMK64h
3m Respirator Filters: amzn.to/34yPvPp
PPG VP 2050 Primer ( Google or Local Paint Supply)
PPG VH 7050 Hardener ( Google or Local Paint Supply)
Guide Coat Spray: amzn.to/3sqfoZO
Guide Coat Powder: amzn.to/3E92Zx2
Spray Gun: amzn.to/3uDSiBG
Body Filler supplies:
Upol Gold Body Filler: amzn.to/3EdMG1X
Onion Board: amzn.to/3EaAVJZ
Plastic Spreader 3 Sizes: amzn.to/3p6JDEv
Metal Spreader 6in: amzn.to/3yDfhN4
Metal Spreader 4in: amzn.to/3p99XOt
Guide Coat Powder: amzn.to/3E92Zx2
SunMight 80 grit: amzn.to/3yEorsI
Body Filler file: amzn.to/3276yHf
Hey guy I’m 67 yr old but spent my whole life blocking are projects to perfection. And I give you a double 👍👍 the younger guys don’t understand just what an old school way you’re showing chuck from ny good gob
Thank you👊🏻👊🏻👍🏻👍🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Okay
I'm 68 I spent the last 20 years of my career fixing high end European luxury and sports. cars Very few guys that claim to be body men truly understand what it takes to yield a high quality dead bang straight car. Even fewer understand about a finer wet sanding produces a better looking paint job. You did a great job of explaining a very complicated process to the laymen in your viewers.
Thank you very much
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS You earned it.
Well said....😎
@@jamescon55 T Y
The finesse you teach breaking down every minute detail of your artisan bodywork is priceless !!!
Thank you very much! Another will drop this Friday 👍🏻
This is one of the best explanations I have ever heard!
Thank you 🙌🏻
The Michelangelo of automotive body work! Another awesome one guys and absolutely perfect timing for what I have going on here. The 66 thanks you! I was about to go in and do a hack facelift 😁
Thank you Phil! 👊🏻
Would love to see a video on how u guys fit the doors
Thanks for the request we will do that!
I got to hand it to you Travis you are one awesome teacher, Im learning heaps. Another great video mate 👍
Thank you very much. Glad to hear it!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, your a great teacher I learned a lot
Thank you very much
another in the long line of excellent & informative videos !!! two thumbs up !!!
to do that body work correctly , you really got to have the skill in the hands to make it happen , it truly is a art !!!
keep up the great videos , I always listen intently for any & all " TRICKS OF THE TRADE " !!!!
Thank you!!
You give me inspiration in every video, really appreciate the knowledge. Im attempting to restore my mustang and am realizing how much of an "art" body work is. hats off to you brother. keep up with the vids!!!
Thank you so much
thank you! always learning! I hope you do a video on gun setup when you start spraying base and clear. what to look for in the spray pattern and how to adjust from there. pressures, etc. while I've done body work for a long time for myself and on the side I am just now starting to spray serous stuff. orange peal drives me nuts.
Soon we will promise 👍🏻
This guy got it,The voice,mannerism, and more importantly the talent and personality. Get him a TV show stat !!! Subscribed.
Thank you much appreciated
No tv show. Producers will want drama and take away his awesome teaching abilities. Keep up the great work Travis!!!
@@dwaynelejeune3508 thank you so much
Love your videos! I’m actually blocking as we speak
Thank you!!
Metallic go to 600! Thats the advice i needed. Every repair i do has been metallics. Thanks. Explains why i still can see some light scratch. Not horrible for a driver but it's there.
All in the details 👍🏻
Hi from Australia! I’m using VCP 250 on my project and my data sheet warns not to apply body filler over this product? Would data sheet be referring to large areas of filler over top but small areas with a wipe of filler would be fine?
Your videos are awesome thank you
Body Filler may be applied over VP2050 after an over night air dry and a light sanding. If applying body filler, two coats of VP2050 must first be applied. This was directly out of their TDS sheet for VP 2050 not sure where you saw this. Hope this helps. 👍🏻
where do you live where at night you have no bugs bugging you? also I'm doing a 1957 belair and your videos have saved my life thank you sir.
We still have bugs we just spray ourselves heavily with bug spray. But we reside in Nuevo California. Thank you glad they have helped you!
A few minutes after 7PM and I am in the garage, a man cave with dirt & shiny stuff covered in dirt. I guess I must old if I had a spray can made to hold sand paper on the tool I was using. I think it is between the distributor wrenches and the chrome tach-dwell meter w/cylinders 1-8 setting.
I have eased the edge on a paint stick to work the guide coat off around the wheel house flare. I have seen that filler on the doors before and felt is the hinges are rebuilt, and gapped with a paint stick all the way around, perhaps a little hammer spoon or slapping spoon (Call it what you want, but use it) I have a length, curve radius and width drawn on paper, to make another so #3. I am not a body work guru, but you make it easy to understand. Either a sanding block or chainsaw, if you have to push & push every time, the paper is dull or loaded or the chain needs sharpened. Right! I used a folded wire coat hanger with a length of fuel line as a handle. This knocks the chunks of filler out but also you lose your sanding grit if the same paper was new 20 minutes ago. Get a new one, try buying a better product as it makes a difference on production. How many tools work better if we let them do the work? By weight, sharpness, etc. They made crank ice cream machines also, but to worn out to enjoy the ice cream. I am not saying to buy electric because either way, you still get ice cream.
Question: You say polyester high build, but it make me think a tube of hardener with a clear liquid inside. This makes me think of polyester resin in fiberglass (Vinylester resins-pink) but I have seen comments that this is hard as a rock to sand? Instead of a cream hardener this is now methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) not methyl ethyl ketone peroxide used in the cream hardener. Many videos talk about sanding a Corvette, or fiberglass kit cars but bring up gel coat! That is colored spray on body filler that uses a styrene-monomer for thinning, but uses the MEK (Clear Stuff) to harden.
They spray gel coat on top of gelcoat (Not too thick if the fiberglass was right) but it is sanded that same way. Some boat techs keep a microfiber towel in a zip lock, spray dykem on the gelcoat as their guide coat.
No, this isn’t fair to ask you to put on your chemist hat with pointy tip, but for a high build primer that uses a clear hardner, does this sand harder like fiberglass because I have never used it. Just asking as I do research to decide what to buy!
Have a safe 4th holiday….everyone.
Hi Dean. I know the VP2050 he uses is epoxy based. I don't think it's a polyester. This primer takes a little elbow grease to sand but not as tough as some of the polyesters I've used.
Thanks for watching. Not sure on that clear hardener sorry
@@class5bodyworks Thanks Chris! Very much as this old man leans. Elbow grease is on back order everywhere! Go figure. Stay safe an enjoy the 4th and time with family and friends!
I appreciate you info from experience!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS it is cool! Enjoy time off this holiday, I have 5 or 6 things to do that are hard for an old man, like me.
@@deankay4434
Anytime. They say age is a state of mind. I'm not so sure as I get older😞. This line of work is elbows,shoulders and knees. Enjoy your holiday as well everyone.
grate vids!! im doing a 50 fleetline with a ton of bad body work over the hole car...some dim wit did body work with a DA sander then painted the car. i can read every dent lol
Lmao good luck! Cool car!
Californians probably can't fathom the luxury of an open door like that. Here in France you'd get eaten alive by mosquitoes! :)
We get eaten alive here too. We’re covered in bug spray 🤣
I can't wait to get my car back from storage, I too have grooves in my fender from the sanding I was doing and what I've seen you do I can't wait to redo some of the areas of my car. I also need new blocks from the ones you show.
👌🏻👊🏻👍🏻
Three coats hibuild epoxy. Blocking now with 120. You instruct to fill small lows with thin filler. When that is blocked out, do you need to respray with the epoxy or can you proceed to paint after the wet sanding is done? Also…bare metal exposed…re-spray these areas?
Filler and bare metal will all need to be covered you also cannot wet sand filler.
Props on going into such detail when talking about the process, I actually find myself skipping forward quite a bit simply because I know quite a bit of what you talk about already, I am searching for the what I don't know, as I love to learn everything I can. I compare myself to a sponge just soaking up anything and everything. But I gotta ask, when talking while working on a customers car, do you charge them for teaching others?
When we are filming these videos it’s at night on our own time. Absolutely do not charge my customers for that.
It seems as though I can never get my sanding scratches out, 80, 120, 220, to 400 & can’t seem to make them disappear. You can’t see them until I lay down the single stage paint…. Any suggestions?
Explain to me your process in more detail. What primer are you using etc.
After you've completed wet sanding to 600 grit, do apply a sealer before basecoat - or basecoat right on the VP2050?
You can do either or but I recommend sealing it then base coat.
Guide coat between grits and wet sand at 600. Came here for this info and got it. Thanks for being completely overkill because I am the same way lol. Great channel sir .
Thank you so much!!!
I really like the body filler between the doors. I am going to use that trick next time. Thanks for the videos
It absolutely helps 👌🏻👍🏻
fantastic info nice & simply explained i just got the labor saver kit from Linear blocks they are a great aid in our ever pursuit of a perfect panel/finish great video again
Thank you!
Wow great information do a great job in a 15 minute video that's what I've done in the last 15 years
Thank you!
How many inches is the longest block you generally use? I have the 32in linear block set and i can't agree more on how important the hand placement is. it's either flexing too much raising the center off the panel or the ends are off the panel just defeating the purpose of that size block thinking of selling the set on eBay or keep it incase i ever find myself working on a boat, would 24in be more practical or in your professional opinion is it still a bit much
You are correct the longest block I use is 22-24” long any longer and there’s no point unless you grow an extra arm 🤣
I use sof sanders for all of those tricky spots.
I have a 1960 VW there is no such thing as a straight panel on this car, it is like a marilyn monroe picture all curves, what would you suggest for sanding the fenders? they are are an absolute menace to sand. granted this will not be a show car, but want a good smooth finish.
Hard to explain on here. That’s what we teach in our classes.
Another great informative video! One question. Do you use the dry guide coat just before the wet sanding stage? I guess I'm asking, does guide coat work while using water? Thanks again. Cheers John 🍻
Because it’s shiny and smooth initially it won’t stick so I use aresol but after it’s opened up I use the dry. As for when wet sanding with water the dry works great. Check out the video we did on polishing clear coat with it even 👍🏻
Yes, it will work wet also.
Curious when do you need to wetsand vs not? Currently at 500g dry and was planning to also shoot a sealer coat right before base and clear coat. Thanks
It’s personal preference I like how 600 wet is vs dry because the paper isn’t plugging
Not only does this guy have skills, he can do a whole video one crack. God bless you brah.
Thank you!
I noticed the same thing. It's a talent, no erms ahs and OKs, excellent delivery
This was really helpful I have been trying too hard to muscle out the tough areas. I am hoping the next level blocks help force me to use a lighter touch.
Good luck!!
What is that hand-held block/pad towards the end to blend in the curve of the quarter panel and around tail light pocket?
It’s just a soft block for wet sanding they are found at just about any automotive paint supply warehouse.
There's been a lot of discussion about phantom wave caused by different materials expanding and contracting at different rates. You mentioned the primer is more brittle than the filler. Any reason why these two materials together wouldn't cause phantom wave? One is polyester and the other is epoxy based.
Phantom waves are caused by the metal work being under tension and not relaxed.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
Curious. I remember discussion about why it's not a good idea to maybe topcoat the 2050 with a urethane or other type primer for example. So this has no effect in the phantom wave or is it more because of cure times?
Just found your channel and learning a ton! Also recognizing that my number one mistake over the years has been pressing too hard on the sanding blocks 😬. So after 220, it’s fine to go straight to 600 wet sand? No 320 or other grit between?
Thanks again for the amazing and informative videos!
I jump to 600 from 220 as long as you are thorough there’s no issue
Awesome brother, appreciate it!
When you prime the car, do you shoot the car in the paint booth? And if did, can you shoot primer without a paint booth?
I use the booth all the time. But I started in my garage in a track home I used to do everything start to finish in my own garage without a booth.
Great video thanks for the tip now I just got to put it to the practice stay safe
Good luck!!
So, I have told you before, I love your channel & wish I would have found it sooner! Thanks for all the great info. After watching this one several times, I am unsure of one thing: I am in the final stages of sanding my polyester primer @ 220 grit. I have burned through the polyester in a few places to have spots of either filler or epoxy primer showing through. I understand I need to apply primer (or epoxy sealer?) to those areas & block them down before 400 grit wet sanding. Do I use polyester? Or reduced epoxy primer (20% reduced epoxy primer will be my sealer). If you use polyester, I'm afraid of burning back through after all the grits. Thanks for answering my question!
Thank you!! Honestly if it’s just small spots I’ll just spot prime them with whatever primer you are using. If it’s a lot of areas I will prime it all over again. I use vp2050 because it gives way more build and you can wet sand it unlike most polyesters 👍🏻
Do you only block sand die coat, or can you da die coat. I seen another chanel use a da and I didn't think that was right.
Only time we ever use a DA is when stripping cars 👍🏻
You can sand guide coat either way. You'll typically see D/A used on collision repair vs. restoration.
I've been doing semis here lately, and they've got huck rivets everywhere, you have any tips on something like that?
That’s a big challenge. I don’t have anything on it. But if I was doing it I’d use paint stripper to remove all old paint and make sure the metal was in great condition so you could put down your primer minimally to keep mill thickness from building up and roll into paint
Thanks man
One thing for improvement and it doesn't cost anything compared to what it saves. Tape! Your primer work is hard,shrinkage is done, primer is "Gassed - Out" as I call the evaporation process necessary for purr-fection as Sylvester would say! Tape off your radius areas you don't want a line or accidentally nicked area or flat line (low-spot) to occur. Take areas down is easier than building back-up a fantom wave or straight line created from a sandpaper edge from your block. Pinky is also advisable, I do that too, but that point in your video you do not cover the end with your pinky! Taking tape prevents any mistakes we can easily make happen. Then roll your radius into the wheel well lightly to blend to straight panel. Tape is a Gret way to keep your body lines along the side of vehicles straight! Once you cross hatch down to a body-line Tape it! Then sand bottom half of car up to the Tape line placed ON the already flat cross-hatched primer! This gets a sharp straight line back into your side or primer area. I often times have too sharp of a line and lightly sand the sharp straight new-formed line with a very thin foam sanding pad very lightly to knock the "sharp-edge" down so paint doesn't separate from being too sharp.
Agreed! I dig the purrrrfect lol 🤣 if you haven’t already check out our video on body lines makes it pretty easy. I do all body lines last. 👌🏻
Very good demonstration and advice! Tom
Thank you!
Could you find an example panel that was easier to sand? What happens to the rest of us 97% of people who have body lines, ridges, accents stamped in the sheet metal? Most of us can sand a sheet of drywall also. You are good and very detailed but most of us are working with a much bigger challenge's as far as sheet metal panels.
Then ask a question that can be answered. Every car has its challenges period.
Great video!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you
excellent video love everyone of them
Thank you very much
Where can I find the next level blocks? cant find a web page or anything to check cost and order them
Look them up on Instagram 👍🏻
dope videos bro!
Glad you like them!
👍👍thankxx buddy 😎
👌🏻👊🏻👍🏻
I was just thinking that what makes us good at this trade is the patience and the obsession of perfection under time constraints!!
Yes!!!
I'm a new fan
Thank you for watching!
Good vid !
Thank you!
What brand of sandpaper do use? Every brand I try loads up within a couple strokes.
What paper are you using and what primer?
We use sunmight and carborundum
Question: do you do the same process for intricate front bumpers?
If it’s an older steel one yes. Plastic bumpers no
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS what’s your process for plastic bumpers?
@@chefswoleclean well, scotch bright adhesion promoter and paint
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS very interesting, no primer?
@@chefswole sealer goes on before paint.
Try some SPI EPOXY
I’ve been going to the same ppg shop since I was 12 years old. Lol
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS At least once give it a try.I understand your loyalty to the PPG store.
would it be a good idea to start in those tight small areas first then blend the big panel to it
I’ve found it’s easier to do the opposite watch out latest video it explains it better
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ill check it out. Keep em coming. I thought I knew what I was doing but you've enlightened me a ton
Do you go through this same process for the engine bay and trunk interior? Or do you have an abbreviated process for that?
Depends on what you’re going for. If you’re trying to paint everything where it’s all seen then yes but if you’re just going to undercoat the floor in the interior then this does not matter you can just scuff it up and paint it. Engine bays yes we do