Myself not being a painter, I do enjoy the tutorials that you're doing for me and I am grateful for them. It is unfortunate that we live in such a opinionated world these days. If people don't like your tutorials, we'll than can just stop watching them. But, for the rest of us, keep them up, it does help!!!
Anyone who doesn't learn anything here and bitches is more than likely just a troll or hater. I've been in this trade for 30 years (20 collision/10 restoration) and learn something on each video. There are a lot of armchair technicians out there. The good ones can back it up. You can't b.s. your way through this kind of work.
Mike coming in hot with the mixing montage… cinematic 🎥 Travis thank you for this one. I’ll certainly be watching it a few times. Sharing your experience down to this granular level saves loads of time and buckets of cash in wasted materials for us trying to figure this out and learn it on our own. Another one saved in my training playlist 🔥
continually find my self thinking & commenting "another great video" time & time again, so refreshing to hear someone explain & give great advice regarding our art
Looks awesome! Thanks Mike for showing what's up... I can come home from working on cars everyday and love watching your videos. You have a way of showing what it's all about and no bullshit.
I've been a follower since you started and this is one of the best explanations for a DIY guy I have found. You tell it the way it needs to be said in my opinion.. All I can say is Thanks and keep up the good content.
Travis great info I have so many of your vid saved to go back and reference. The way you explain things is down to earth!! Keep up the awesome work/tutorial’s
Another great training video from a passionate instructor. If you ever to a new video on block sanding, I would appreciate tips on sanding corners and edges.
I use the exact same PPG products, only difference is I prefer to use DP 90 first on a completely bare panel, I've also never found any primer to lay down as nice compared to the PPG sealer regardless of how much it's reduced.
OL SKOOLLL maan!👌😉 That's how I was taught back in 90-93 vocational school TOO! Been doin it that way ever since as well and? NO problems, either 😏My ONLY complaint IS that they obviously removed the lead from the original DP in the early 2000s/Millennial change. The old DP, WITH the lead? You could spray it on fresh prepped metal WITHOUT topcoating it with ANYTHING (and leave it outside in the weather even, for a few years) and that epoxy would protect the metal! The newer DPLF "aka Lead Free" however? NOWHERE close to the original stuff. But?.....Is what it is. Thx again for the vids Mr. Sly.
As a hobbyist only, and not for profit, have used summit black DTM and 2K primer are very effective especially for overall where larger amount of material is required. Spray the DTM over properly prepped bare metal and body work wait 30-45 mins and apply the 2K on top in 2 coats with last coat slighty over reduced to smooth it up. When you block you can see the color change if you go through the 2K which lets you know it's time to stop. The only concern is with shrinkage and like to wait several weeks before blocking.
I think a voice over during the video as you are making small adjustments while you make them, as why they are being made would be very helpful. As well as while setting the gun up. Do you go full stop at each of those adjustments and then then back out a basic number of turns to get you in the ballpark and then what do you look for on the practice spray sheet and what modifications do you make to those adjustments and why? Thank you!!! Steve
Your series is getting great and I looked into the PPG VP shop series epoxy and this DTM primer and unfortunately in Ohio where I live O'Reilly auto sells online but says none in stock. My local jobber shops only have 2 gallons in a 100 mile radius, plus only sell the hardener in a 1 gallon amount that costs $300. PPG rep told me they do not make much of this series you use and is reason for shortage. $500 epoxy and DTM primer kits are pretty expensive to say the least. I have used many local Ohio paint producers like Speedokote and Glidden or even more expensive regular PPG paints in PA close by with not much issue. Maybe will get to try the PPG shop paint you use some day hopefully? Looking forward to the next video. 👍
After blending with new primer over BM and filler corrections, having already gone to 220 on the rest of the panel, so I block it with 220 again (guide coat powder) or do I go to wet sanding (as you seemed to say in the video)? You are my go to guru Travis-excellent teaching.
Hey buddy. Just stumbled on to your videos and I think you're the best teacher I've found. So thx. But I'm painting my first car, white taurus police interceptor with holes from equipment and issues from them taking decals off. Hood and front bumper used for blending, top, rt side, and all back getting redone with back left quarter used for blending. Im learning along the way but my biggest issues are 1- primer spray consistency(black widow hltp) from refill to refill. Im going through primer like crazy and keeping tip clean but everytime I refill it seems like the consistency changes and I waste a lot on my scrap board just getting that dialed back in. 2- just finished blocking and priming for the 3rd time w/Guide coat and wet sanding with 400 now but it's cutting and showing black under the primer with the places I filled holes showing my glazing putty immediately. I put 3 coats on this 3rd time but was it not thick enough? I mean I'm blowing through primer refilling cup 5 to 6 times for each stage of prime and block. I cant imagine it's not thick enough. 3- Do i tape off like a foot or so beyond where i want to stop priming in order not to get a tape line for the blending? I am learning so trying not to get frustrated. Love your vids
Sounds like you need to dial in your body work before you primer anything. You should not have to primer that many times. As far as your issue with clogging the gun, I don’t even know what primer you’re using.
Can you make a video on how to fix a run, in pearl and metallic bases… I got a run in the midnight purple paint base coat I’m painting my car, and I could really use a video on it 😂 . I painted the entire door and got a run, so I’m not sure if I need to spray just the spot I sanded the run out of, with like 2 coats, then work on blending the 3rd coat with the rest of the door or what… would be really helpful , thank you for all of your videos and time man… they are awesome
Exactly! This may be one of the least respected trades. So many people think the price is negotiable because they think it is all just labor and materials are free. I talk to so many people that underestimate the amount of mental and physical aspects that go into this type of medium. "I costs that much and takes that long?" Yes, it does!
I like to always prime outside in when your not doing the whole panel . So 1st coat then 2nd coat inside of that etc . What’s your thoughts 💭 thanks for the knowledge I appreciate you 👊🏻😎
I was originally taught to prime inside out but after so many years the paint manufacturers started recommending outside in. The two reasons were 1) so not to prime across dry over spray from first to second coat. They say it the second coat could bridge across the over spray and not bind causing de-lam. 2) it's to prevent mounding and causing excessive film build on the outer edges making it more difficult to block flat. I think that's more for people who stop each coat at the same spot. I've done both ways over the years without issue but I tend to stick to outside in now. Seems to make sense. But either is only for spot prime obviously, not full panels.
Depending on the location on a panel as to were the repair is to a body line I don't try to blend clear I'll clear the hole panel just to keep labor cost down, I would rather use a little more material and save me time on the finished product.
I agree. Although it's definitely possible to make an invisible burn, the labor involved will be offset by the small amount of extra material. Full panel clear you can just spray it and walk away without buffing out any blend areas.
What model Walcom gun did you use for the V2050 primer? I'm setting up a paint booth at my restoration shop and I'm going to order the same equipment you have in this video.
hey thank you for all the great videos...im painting a car for my first time...my own car.. a nissan skyline r32 gtr ... its going okay , a lot more work and trouble than I imagined. Anyhow can i buy that primer and activator .. and spray my car from bare metal with it..sand it flat .. and put color right over the top then clear coat it ? ... im currently sanding off all the old paint off the car because someone resprayed it and did a terrible job so im trying to repaint it myself. I just want to make sure Im not missing any steps...You talked about doing 7 diff products in this video and to be honest all the different stuff ive heard from different videos is confusing.
How do you choose your air pressure? Is there different pressures for primer vs paint? I assume there is a manufacturer spec for shooting their product at a certain pressure…?
I think PPG recommends no more than three coats(can't remember on the mil thickness). I've blocked small dents out with one good coat. Heavy body filler I usually went three coats but am starting to scale back to two. Yes, you can re coat this primer as needed.
4:34 hi newbie here. can someone please enlighten me what does he mean by the primer breaking the coat of the iwata gun so he will rather use the other gun instead? is the coat specific to the iwata brand and the other guns does not have that coat? or he just want to preserve the iwata gun which is more expensive thus using the cheaper one instead? or something else? is primer bad for spray guns? pardon my english.
Epoxy primer has acids in it which will ruin the chrome plating in time. You can still do it but we use a certain walcom because it sprays nice and is made of Kevlar not metal.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS What is the model # of the Wlacom gun you refer to in the video? Thank you for taling the time to post information that's useful to us novice DIYers.
He is referring to the coating that the paint gun has on it. The chrome type finish… the gun also is coated internally. he doesn’t want to use the primer on his expensive gun so that it doesn’t break down the coating on his expensive gun.
That swivel joint on extension the pressure gauge is attached to on the end of the gun looks awkward as in getting in the way and risk of making contact with the panel. Any reason for choosing that swivel attachment? Enjoy your content as in the final blocking stage of painting my 89 MB 560SEL (DIY at home)
I had the same question for PPG when I first used this too. The terminology is confusing and misleading but was confirmed by PPG. It is an epoxy. It originally came from their industrial line but enough people started using it on cars that PPG refined it to make it more user friendly for automotive. I know DTM is generally used to describe an epoxy/urethane hybrid.
@@ajd5363 Haven't personally used the Tamco products. I've heard good things. I know Linear blocks did a shrink test on it along with the VP2050. I think it's the primer you're asking about. I've had great results with the PPG so I stick with what works for me and my application.
I just did somebody work on my car took it down to to the metal and did my body filler what is the next should I shoot a primer surfacer or sealer or an epoxy primer?
I've been trying to get some PPG VP2050 for a few months now, it's impossible to get it in Australia it seems. I can't even find somewhere in the US to import some. Any suggestions please?
It has been a pain since our economy took a dump. Is there any ppg suppliers in your area? Your not the only one saying this. I’ve recently heard this from another person in Australia
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS We have an official Australia distributor but they don't know anything about the VP2050 and claim they can't get it. They have VCP250 and VCP220 on the website but that's all. Do you have a distributor in the US I could import some from? Thanks.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS can you tell me where I can pick some up? My brother in law lives out of state and I was going to have some shipped to his house and have him bring it next time he comes down, but that’s a hassle. Thanks and your channel kicks ass! Do you guys have any swag; stickers, shirts, etc for sale?
Myself not being a painter, I do enjoy the tutorials that you're doing for me and I am grateful for them. It is unfortunate that we live in such a opinionated world these days. If people don't like your tutorials, we'll than can just stop watching them. But, for the rest of us, keep them up, it does help!!!
Anyone who doesn't learn anything here and bitches is more than likely just a troll or hater. I've been in this trade for 30 years (20 collision/10 restoration) and learn something on each video. There are a lot of armchair technicians out there. The good ones can back it up. You can't b.s. your way through this kind of work.
Thank you so much!!
So we’ll said. Thank you!!
Mike coming in hot with the mixing montage… cinematic 🎥
Travis thank you for this one. I’ll certainly be watching it a few times. Sharing your experience down to this granular level saves loads of time and buckets of cash in wasted materials for us trying to figure this out and learn it on our own. Another one saved in my training playlist 🔥
Thanks brother!
continually find my self thinking & commenting "another great video" time & time again,
so refreshing to hear someone explain & give great advice regarding our art
Thank you very much!
I’m going back to school next week and this is a nice refresher for me LOL
Right on! Good luck!
I sure wish I had found you earlier, but better late than never.
I learned a lot this evening from this video! Thank you!
Awesome thank you
Looks awesome! Thanks Mike for showing what's up... I can come home from working on cars everyday and love watching your videos. You have a way of showing what it's all about and no bullshit.
Thank you very much
I've been a follower since you started and this is one of the best explanations for a DIY guy I have found. You tell it the way it needs to be said in my opinion.. All I can say is Thanks and keep up the good content.
Thank you for watching we’re glad you enjoy the channel. 👍🏻
Travis great info I have so many of your vid saved to go back and reference. The way you explain things is down to earth!! Keep up the awesome work/tutorial’s
Thank you so much
I appreciate your time here.
Thank you!!!
Very good explanation....this channel is great !!
Thank you!
Another great training video from a passionate instructor. If you ever to a new video on block sanding, I would appreciate tips on sanding corners and edges.
Coming soon you got it! 👍🏻
Great information and very much appreciated. Many thanks.
Thank you!
Thank you for these videos, doing up a Holden hz Ute, watching from Australia.
Thank you
Man your teaching me alot
Very glad to hear!
Great stuff thank you
Thank you!
Love my Slim Kombat primer gun
Me too 🤘🏻
Great info man….I’ll put it to good use practicing with my full-size spray gun..
Thank you!
Great info as always! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you!!
I use the exact same PPG products, only difference is I prefer to use DP 90 first on a completely bare panel, I've also never found any primer to lay down as nice compared to the PPG sealer regardless of how much it's reduced.
That’s awesome and yes I agree
OL SKOOLLL maan!👌😉 That's how I was taught back in 90-93 vocational school TOO! Been doin it that way ever since as well and? NO problems, either 😏My ONLY complaint IS that they obviously removed the lead from the original DP in the early 2000s/Millennial change. The old DP, WITH the lead? You could spray it on fresh prepped metal WITHOUT topcoating it with ANYTHING (and leave it outside in the weather even, for a few years) and that epoxy would protect the metal! The newer DPLF "aka Lead Free" however? NOWHERE close to the original stuff. But?.....Is what it is. Thx again for the vids Mr. Sly.
@@jamescon55 thank you ! 👊🏻
As a hobbyist only, and not for profit, have used summit black DTM and 2K primer are very effective especially for overall where larger amount of material is required.
Spray the DTM over properly prepped bare metal and body work wait 30-45 mins and apply the 2K on top in 2 coats with last coat slighty over reduced to smooth it up. When you block you can see the color change if you go through the 2K which lets you know it's time to stop. The only concern is with shrinkage and like to wait several weeks before blocking.
Not what I’d recommend but sure
I think a voice over during the video as you are making small adjustments while you make them, as why they are being made would be very helpful. As well as while setting the gun up. Do you go full stop at each of those adjustments and then then back out a basic number of turns to get you in the ballpark and then what do you look for on the practice spray sheet and what modifications do you make to those adjustments and why?
Thank you!!!
Steve
What do you mean full stop? Watch our video secrets to a perfect paint job. It explains it better.
Amazing video keep them coming, just epoxy primed my 2nd gen f body.
Thank you!!
Your series is getting great and I looked into the PPG VP shop series epoxy and this DTM primer and unfortunately in Ohio where I live O'Reilly auto sells online but says none in stock. My local jobber shops only have 2 gallons in a 100 mile radius, plus only sell the hardener in a 1 gallon amount that costs $300. PPG rep told me they do not make much of this series you use and is reason for shortage. $500 epoxy and DTM primer kits are pretty expensive to say the least. I have used many local Ohio paint producers like Speedokote and Glidden or even more expensive regular PPG paints in PA close by with not much issue. Maybe will get to try the PPG shop paint you use some day hopefully? Looking forward to the next video. 👍
Yeah the shortages are a pain right now it’s started to get better recently. Thanks for watching!
🫡 remember those expensive materials I mix them on the floor.
I drop some expensive clear one time . 😂 I was like dam 😢
After blending with new primer over BM and filler corrections, having already gone to 220 on the rest of the panel, so I block it with 220 again (guide coat powder) or do I go to wet sanding (as you seemed to say in the video)? You are my go to guru Travis-excellent teaching.
As long as everything is sealed up in primer, coat coat and wet sand with 600
Btw, I commented prior to watching this vid so I apologize if any of my issues were answered in the vid. Watching now
Another great video, with key points to learn from.. are you hiring
No huh ?
We are actually. Send resume to sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
Hey buddy. Just stumbled on to your videos and I think you're the best teacher I've found. So thx. But I'm painting my first car, white taurus police interceptor with holes from equipment and issues from them taking decals off. Hood and front bumper used for blending, top, rt side, and all back getting redone with back left quarter used for blending. Im learning along the way but my biggest issues are 1- primer spray consistency(black widow hltp) from refill to refill. Im going through primer like crazy and keeping tip clean but everytime I refill it seems like the consistency changes and I waste a lot on my scrap board just getting that dialed back in. 2- just finished blocking and priming for the 3rd time w/Guide coat and wet sanding with 400 now but it's cutting and showing black under the primer with the places I filled holes showing my glazing putty immediately. I put 3 coats on this 3rd time but was it not thick enough? I mean I'm blowing through primer refilling cup 5 to 6 times for each stage of prime and block. I cant imagine it's not thick enough. 3- Do i tape off like a foot or so beyond where i want to stop priming in order not to get a tape line for the blending? I am learning so trying not to get frustrated. Love your vids
Sounds like you need to dial in your body work before you primer anything. You should not have to primer that many times. As far as your issue with clogging the gun, I don’t even know what primer you’re using.
Can you make a video on how to fix a run, in pearl and metallic bases… I got a run in the midnight purple paint base coat I’m painting my car, and I could really use a video on it 😂 . I painted the entire door and got a run, so I’m not sure if I need to spray just the spot I sanded the run out of, with like 2 coats, then work on blending the 3rd coat with the rest of the door or what… would be really helpful , thank you for all of your videos and time man… they are awesome
I’ll keep it in the notes for future 👌🏻you are correct
How about a tutorial on getting customers to pay for the good work
Exactly! This may be one of the least respected trades. So many people think the price is negotiable because they think it is all just labor and materials are free. I talk to so many people that underestimate the amount of mental and physical aspects that go into this type of medium. "I costs that much and takes that long?" Yes, it does!
That might be a killer video actually. Might be a great convo on the podcast once mike releases it. 👍🏻
I like to always prime outside in when your not doing the whole panel . So 1st coat then 2nd coat inside of that etc . What’s your thoughts 💭 thanks for the knowledge I appreciate you 👊🏻😎
I was originally taught to prime inside out but after so many years the paint manufacturers started recommending outside in. The two reasons were 1) so not to prime across dry over spray from first to second coat. They say it the second coat could bridge across the over spray and not bind causing de-lam. 2) it's to prevent mounding and causing excessive film build on the outer edges making it more difficult to block flat. I think that's more for people who stop each coat at the same spot. I've done both ways over the years without issue but I tend to stick to outside in now. Seems to make sense. But either is only for spot prime obviously, not full panels.
Me personally I prefer outside in so everything gets a nice wet on wet and adheres well. 👍🏻
Depending on the location on a panel as to were the repair is to a body line I don't try to blend clear I'll clear the hole panel just to keep labor cost down, I would rather use a little more material and save me time on the finished product.
I agree. Although it's definitely possible to make an invisible burn, the labor involved will be offset by the small amount of extra material. Full panel clear you can just spray it and walk away without buffing out any blend areas.
We agree we don’t blend any clears. Only base-coats then clear the entire panel.
What model Walcom gun did you use for the V2050 primer? I'm setting up a paint booth at my restoration shop and I'm going to order the same equipment you have in this video.
I forget off hand I use a couple different ones. There’s a green Kevlar one that’s awesome for epoxy. It doesn’t break down since it’s not metal
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS we were looking at the slim xlight model for 180 bucks. It appears you may be using that one in the video.
Travis, if you need a compressor for supplied air, I have one that I will give you. Just pay shipping, and it's yours.
Thank you currently we are good I appreciate the offer
Not having runs is nice, but how do we handle a run if we get one???
We will have to do a video on that in the future 👍🏻
hey thank you for all the great videos...im painting a car for my first time...my own car.. a nissan skyline r32 gtr ... its going okay , a lot more work and trouble than I imagined. Anyhow can i buy that primer and activator .. and spray my car from bare metal with it..sand it flat .. and put color right over the top then clear coat it ? ... im currently sanding off all the old paint off the car because someone resprayed it and did a terrible job so im trying to repaint it myself. I just want to make sure Im not missing any steps...You talked about doing 7 diff products in this video and to be honest all the different stuff ive heard from different videos is confusing.
Watch our newest video on primers 👌🏻👍🏻
How do you choose your air pressure? Is there different pressures for primer vs paint? I assume there is a manufacturer spec for shooting their product at a certain pressure…?
This video walks you through how to make that determination. TDS sheets give you a recommendation but typically they don’t spray optimal.
How many coats of that primer can you get away with and if it doesn't block out can you add more coats
I think PPG recommends no more than three coats(can't remember on the mil thickness). I've blocked small dents out with one good coat. Heavy body filler I usually went three coats but am starting to scale back to two. Yes, you can re coat this primer as needed.
We do three. You can apply more but as your bodywork improves and gets better you won’t rely on primer to fix any lows. 👍🏻
Where could i get the primer and gun? THANKS. 😁👍🏼
Which gun? We talk about lots.
4:34 hi newbie here. can someone please enlighten me what does he mean by the primer breaking the coat of the iwata gun so he will rather use the other gun instead? is the coat specific to the iwata brand and the other guns does not have that coat? or he just want to preserve the iwata gun which is more expensive thus using the cheaper one instead? or something else? is primer bad for spray guns? pardon my english.
Epoxy primer has acids in it which will ruin the chrome plating in time. You can still do it but we use a certain walcom because it sprays nice and is made of Kevlar not metal.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS What is the model # of the Wlacom gun you refer to in the video?
Thank you for taling the time to post information that's useful to us novice DIYers.
@@emilfrias4991 it’s called the walcom slim kombat spray gun.
He is referring to the coating that the paint gun has on it. The chrome type finish… the gun also is coated internally. he doesn’t want to use the primer on his expensive gun so that it doesn’t break down the coating on his expensive gun.
That swivel joint on extension the pressure gauge is attached to on the end of the gun looks awkward as in getting in the way and risk of making contact with the panel.
Any reason for choosing that swivel attachment? Enjoy your content as in the final blocking stage of painting my 89 MB 560SEL (DIY at home)
Yes that swivel helps me get into the roll cages on the prerunners we paint. Gotta swing the hose way out of the way. Thank you
VP 2050 keeps getting referred to as epoxy but the tech sheet says it’s just a DTM.
I had the same question for PPG when I first used this too. The terminology is confusing and misleading but was confirmed by PPG. It is an epoxy. It originally came from their industrial line but enough people started using it on cars that PPG refined it to make it more user friendly for automotive. I know DTM is generally used to describe an epoxy/urethane hybrid.
Well said thank you
What chris said 👍🏻
Interesting, on a similar note, thoughts on Tamco DTM?
@@ajd5363
Haven't personally used the Tamco products. I've heard good things. I know Linear blocks did a shrink test on it along with the VP2050. I think it's the primer you're asking about. I've had great results with the PPG so I stick with what works for me and my application.
what type of gun do you prefer? hvlp?
Yes I’m a fan of iwata supernova Guns but that’s just me.
I just did somebody work on my car took it down to to the metal and did my body filler what is the next should I shoot a primer surfacer or sealer or an epoxy primer?
Go to our video understanding primers 👌🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I just watched it so are you saying I need to shoot all three? Epoxy polyester & urethane and then my base coat?
Can you clarify mix ratio for the vp 2050? Thanks
If you are within question, you need to read your TDS sheet for every product? You are about to spray. 2:1:1/2
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks. I was having a senior moment:)
Do you put a different type of primer and paint on the hood than the rest of car for heat?
Negative
Can you provide a model number and link for the Walcom spray gun please?
It’s called the slim kombat gun it’s made of Kevlar so the epoxy doesn’t eat the plating inside 👌🏻 I like the 1.8 or 2.0 tip
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you. Is there a certain diameter hose to use for spraying? A length not to exceed? Fittings that are used for a good setup?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS there’s HTE? HVLP? I see them now for $379 or more on their website
Prime before filler? What's best primer? Feather fill or 2k?
In my opinion vp2050 is the best we don’t use poly
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS will that cover sanded scuffed paint that had no clear coat, filler, metal and fiberglass
I've been watching alot of BAD Chad videos and I almost went his route until I watched this one
💪🏻💪🏻
🙌🏻🙌🏻
Can u go in to the pattern more
We will when we spray the next car 👍🏻
What filter you use on your mask?
3m charcoal filters
What if your primer fails?
If your primer fails, you did something incorrectly
I've been trying to get some PPG VP2050 for a few months now, it's impossible to get it in Australia it seems. I can't even find somewhere in the US to import some. Any suggestions please?
It has been a pain since our economy took a dump. Is there any ppg suppliers in your area? Your not the only one saying this. I’ve recently heard this from another person in Australia
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS We have an official Australia distributor but they don't know anything about the VP2050 and claim they can't get it. They have
VCP250 and
VCP220 on the website but that's all. Do you have a distributor in the US I could import some from? Thanks.
@@tfoot22 unfortunately I don’t. The place I go to doesn’t ship 🥲
You can’t buy this in California. Anyone know another option that is California compliant?
I buy mine in Ca weekly
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS can you tell me where I can pick some up? My brother in law lives out of state and I was going to have some shipped to his house and have him bring it next time he comes down, but that’s a hassle. Thanks and your channel kicks ass! Do you guys have any swag; stickers, shirts, etc for sale?
Dial back on your paint( not paint, but material coming out of your gun)
You get the idea.
i dont know about that primer gun set up,has everything but air compressor on it,accident waiting to happen.
🙄
So, iwatas and satas are trash.
Whatever you say, are you here to contribute anything or just be a troll?