Dude, thanks so much for sharing this. I just ordered my first ever custom DW drum kit. I assumed since I was spending so much money they would be able & willing to do pretty much anything I asked in terms of customization, within reason of course. I was very surprised to learn that they under no circumstances do inlay cuts on their mightily expensive drum hoops (booooo DW). It'll take me a lot of courage, liquid or otherwise, before I dare to do what you did here on my new hoops, but really nice to know there's a tried & true process. Thanks again!
It’s a basic rebate bit that you can get from any reputable woodworking supply shop. The cutting height will dictate the width of the inlay channel. The bearing will change depending on the depth of inlay groove you want to cut. I bought the bit and the bearing both from @timbecon here in Melbourne.
@@schinbeindrumco thanks! I’m new to drum building. Bought my first router table recently, so far I’ve only cut double 45 bearing edges with it. Have you ever inlayed actually drum shells? If so what’s your method?
That depends on a bunch of different factors; depth, width, placement, et c. Usually a mortising bit at the router table using a bunch of feather boards holding it fast to the fence. You could also do it with a dado stack at the table saw with a tenoning jig and (again) a bunch of feather boards. If you’re really brave, I’ve seen it done by hand with an edge guide. Probably the most efficient way would be at the lathe though.
Welp I tried this and my inlays channels wouldn’t meet up, even worse I broke one of the blades off my bit. Well I guess the worst part was ruing my hoops.
@@schinbeindrumco I have an idea why. I think you have to have a nice big professional router table that’s perfectly flat for starters and I think you have to sand the hoops flat as you would for edging a drum. The other method of using a fence was a breeze, worked great! So I think unless you have a professional router table the fence method is better and also far less dangerous. What I actually did was took 2 pieces of MDF and created a channel for the hoop, you can also use the same method for inlaying shells, you also have more control over how deep the inlay channels are for a perfectly flush inlay. Your method was a cool idea but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone unless they have a big professional router table! The method I used ua-cam.com/video/A5QCDMjlm1U/v-deo.html
@@ShawnxEdge I used to have a cupboard door from ikea with a cheap Makita trim router bolted to it. The bit stuck up through a hole in the table. I used this method on that table dozens of times. It’s not the table. Good on you for figuring out a workaround though!
Very underated channel. Great work! best regards from Germany.
Danke!
Great Tip Phillers! (Phil did not fail. I owe him a coke.)
:)
Dude, thanks so much for sharing this. I just ordered my first ever custom DW drum kit. I assumed since I was spending so much money they would be able & willing to do pretty much anything I asked in terms of customization, within reason of course. I was very surprised to learn that they under no circumstances do inlay cuts on their mightily expensive drum hoops (booooo DW). It'll take me a lot of courage, liquid or otherwise, before I dare to do what you did here on my new hoops, but really nice to know there's a tried & true process. Thanks again!
You’re very welcome. I really don’t recommend operating tools with liquid courage though, that’s a sure-fire finger soup recipe…
@@schinbeindrumco lol 100% agree :)
@@Cygnus-X1 I assumed you would; felt like a liability thing to not tell you…. :)
I found timbecon, what size bit and bearing? Thank you🙏
Where did you get the bearing?
Can you tell me exact what cutter you used and the size bearing and where you bought the bearing? Thanks!
It’s a basic rebate bit that you can get from any reputable woodworking supply shop. The cutting height will dictate the width of the inlay channel. The bearing will change depending on the depth of inlay groove you want to cut. I bought the bit and the bearing both from @timbecon here in Melbourne.
@@schinbeindrumco thanks! I’m new to drum building. Bought my first router table recently, so far I’ve only cut double 45 bearing edges with it. Have you ever inlayed actually drum shells? If so what’s your method?
That depends on a bunch of different factors; depth, width, placement, et c. Usually a mortising bit at the router table using a bunch of feather boards holding it fast to the fence. You could also do it with a dado stack at the table saw with a tenoning jig and (again) a bunch of feather boards. If you’re really brave, I’ve seen it done by hand with an edge guide. Probably the most efficient way would be at the lathe though.
Hey do you sell bassdrum hoops by chance??
Welp I tried this and my inlays channels wouldn’t meet up, even worse I broke one of the blades off my bit. Well I guess the worst part was ruing my hoops.
Sorry to hear that, did you figure out where it went wrong?
@@schinbeindrumco I have an idea why. I think you have to have a nice big professional router table that’s perfectly flat for starters and I think you have to sand the hoops flat as you would for edging a drum. The other method of using a fence was a breeze, worked great! So I think unless you have a professional router table the fence method is better and also far less dangerous. What I actually did was took 2 pieces of MDF and created a channel for the hoop, you can also use the same method for inlaying shells, you also have more control over how deep the inlay channels are for a perfectly flush inlay. Your method was a cool idea but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone unless they have a big professional router table! The method I used ua-cam.com/video/A5QCDMjlm1U/v-deo.html
@@ShawnxEdge I used to have a cupboard door from ikea with a cheap Makita trim router bolted to it. The bit stuck up through a hole in the table. I used this method on that table dozens of times. It’s not the table. Good on you for figuring out a workaround though!