here's an idea for next time, do the hand squeeze mold in the same epoxy material, but then 3D scan it and "relax" the 3D model before you 3D print it to get a potentially smoother end result
I'd try a 3-step molding - a thinner initial contour squeeze, sanding, then squeezing a thin 'sheet' around that to get the final shape & thickness with less lumpiness.
This was how I would have approached it as well. You scan clay that he's gripped, and then clean up the 3D model. Then you could print it out with a softer grip material or print out a mold and then add polyurethane grips directly to the carbon wheel.
One nice thing about squeezing to scanning to cad to something workflow is you can use all sorts of materials for the original mold depending on what you're trying to get an impression of. Low temp Thermo plastics like in sports mouth guards, medium temp like kydex, I got a pretty good scan of inside a shoe once buy putting a plastic bag in the shoe and filling with two part expanding foam and scanning that (after glueing the broken pieces from taking it out of the shoe.) Then you can smooth a lot of the surfaces in CAD either by editing the mesh or fiddling with the fitting parameters when getting a surface from the mesh. And finally once you have a CAD model you can make the part in any material. Of course that's a lot of talk that represents days of work and years of experience. Matt did that portion of the thing in a couple hours with the epoxy so... That's worth something too.
Or you could simply make the dildi from a lightweight, soft wood, such as balsa. Then have the driver hold the wheel in a comfortable position and kick him smartly in the nuts. You should end up with impressions in the wood perfectly matching his hands. If it isn't as precise as you would like, just repeat until satisfactory results have been achieved. All hail
i had those fumes attack my eyes when i built one of my rc planes. the wing is built with super glue. super glue sticks to balsa like crazy and also much lighter than epoxy
The bell icon is a bit useless... Even Gmail thinks so and hides my notifications under a different tab, so I never see them. As a result I've turned the bell off.
There's no way I'm going to smash any annoying bell icon... Unless Matt 3-D scans my member so I could also give my wife a personal steering wheel... Then maybe.
Here's the real "pro" tip. But you'd kinda need to work with composites to feel confident enough doing it or just do a handful of tests. But I make my own home made epoxy putty for custom speargun grips. I use a thin RTM epoxy resin totally loaded up with microballoons and then add a bit of chopped carbon fiber. The microballoons will make the putty very light. So light that it actually floats, so it's less then 1g/cm3 and lighter and cheaper than any putty out there if you already have the "ingredients" around. The chopped CF add strength and takes the brittleness out of an only-microballoon mix. Mix it, let it sit until it goes a bit "green" and then you will have a workable putty that will hold its shape well. Oh! Use soapy water on the latex gloves and it wont stick to the gloves either.
As someone who is building sim racing and race car wheels for ten years now, this is a good first shot but there are defenetly parts to improve. First i would use a solid 5mm prepreg carbon fibre sheet instead of 2 plates and add super glue. The strength of carbon is based on different thinks but layer adhesion is one important and i am not trusting that super glue bond as much as a fully cured epoxy. Then you can cnc cut the step holes aswell as the regular go through holes instead of drilling them as you said. While drilling with dull tools, you will get a lot of heat into the matrix and that can weaken the carbon. You used high quality grayhill rotary switches but there are defenetly better buttons out there from APEM, OTTO Controls, EATON etc. The CNC cover has some nasty vibration marks on it. Maybe a clean up pass and sandblasting before anodizing would be a good idea for a better finish. Last you can design you grips in CAD and FDM print the grips for ergonomy tests. When you are happy you can print molds and just make your custom rubber grips. Add some holes to your carbon grip struckture and you are good to go.
Very cool! Since you have a 3D scanner, could it have been a possibility to have Robin squeeze some grips for a reference, 3D scan those reference grips. Then import that into CAD for post-processing so you can make 3D prints of the final product.
You know, I have never hit the bell before. I've got lots of subscriptions. Too many probably. Yet never hit the bell... But damn... that pleading look at the end got me. So there you go. I hope you heard it.
Lived in Colorado all my life, drove up pikes peak once for fun, and knew about the hill climb but never went. Cool to see your work on a car that could very well win this year. Might have to go for the first time to see it live!
I was rather pleased with myself when I made my first steering wheel for the 64 Bug I had just bought. I named it "Vice Grip" after the Vice Grips now pretending to be a steering wheel.
If you can it's much better to cut fiber composites with carbide (or even better, diamond) tooling. If I had a lot of holes to drill in GFRP or CFRP I'd actually be tempted to use a diamond tipped holesaw, as is often sold for drilling concrete or tiles. If you need to cut up a large sheet, you can buy table saw blades with polycrystalline diamond tips (they're intended for working with MDF) that might do a good job. I happen to own a lapidary saw for cutting rocks, so I would probably use that with a diamond abrasive blade, this being a less scary option. The other thing to watch out for is the high rake angle of a regular twist drill will tend to 'pull in' and delaminate the layers of the composite. This can be avoided by 'dubbing' the drill, basically you get a small sharpening stone and grind the cutting edges back a few thou (maybe 0.2-0.5 mm in metric) so they have neutral rake, the same as you would do for drilling brass.
Some else suggested a "dagger bit", and when I looked online for that style most of them seemed to be intended for composites, and made of carbide. Apparently the geometry of the dagger bit reduces delamination.
As always great video, but since I make molded, custom grips for my spearguns I may have something to add;). If he wears race gloves he ideally needs to wear those under the latex gloves when making the grip. Even thin gloves will space your fingers out a few mm so if he didn't wear them when doing the "imprint", it will sadly not fit that well afterwards.
I should add my "pro" tip. But you'd kinda need to work with composites to feel confident enough doing it or just do some tests. But when I make my custom grips I use a home made epoxy putty. I use a thin RTM epoxy resin loaded up with microballoons and then add a bit of chopped carbon fiber. The microballoons will make the putty light. Actually, so ligh that it floats, so it's less then 1g/cm3 and def lighte than any putty out there. And cheaper, too if you already have the "ingredients" around. The chopped CF adds strength and takes the brittleness out of an only-microballoon mix.
If you make parts from two layers of commercial carbon sheet, you can get slightly better performance by orienting them at 45 degrees to one another when they are cut. This is because most commercial sheet is strongly anisotropic, it has the majority of fibres aligned in the 0 and 90 degree orientations (they will be in the same orientation as the surface twill which can be seen in the video of the parts as cut) so it will be noticeably more flexible and weaker when bent off these axes (minimumis logically at 45 degrees). If you re-orient the second sheet at 45 degrees and bond them together you now have fibres aligned on four axes so you will be closer to isotropic. Also, if available in the correct size, the diamond tipped holesaws used for tiles work very well on carbon sheet. I cut halfway through from one side, flip the part and finish from the other side and get multiple very clean cuts. The centre disc does have a bad habit of lodging in the holesaw barrel though.
The carbon dust is also very very good for giving you permanent lung damage if cut in a poorly ventilated space. It's also electrically conductive, so its great to have that graphite dust floating around if you work with electronics.
It's almost 4AM and I was planning to watch this video and go to bed. Well, I have been laughing my but off through it and now I am wide awake.. Well worth it!!! I love to laugh!!
Bondo is a cheap alternative to molding epoxy, and it holds up surprisingly well. I made a set of hand-fitting grips for my old Ruger .44 Blackhawk, and they have held up great for about 15 years now.
I don't hit the bell because I don't have the app and hate unnecessary notifications but I watch every one of your videos regardless because I enjoy your content
Have you ever fumed wood before. Try sticking your maple in a bag or sealed bin with a bit of ammonia. The fumes activate the tannin in the wood artificially age and darken the material. Takes less energy than baking it in your oven. Also, a little bit of gelled wood stain will do the same thing.
i so enjoy these videos , this one is no exception! my favorite part (as if you can have one ) , is the very end when that honda sparks to life! damn i want one!
Most single seater race car drivers use hockey/racket grip take or cycling bar tape which works well and looks marginally better than the stuff you used
Yours is officially the only channel I have EVER hit the bell on. You're welcome... . But actually, thanks for your content, just some of the absolute best.
As an Aussie it's heartening to see we top Canada in your viewership numbers. I am definitely not a car guy, fwiw. Great project, will the salt flats eRocket get a similar treatment?
I was about to swear you and say "I will NOT make one - you´re not my father!". Than I read "Or just watch me do it" and, "oh, okay then". Now I´ve watched, and, f**k, I´ll have to make one of my own. Darn it! Great video, again!
PlastiDip will hold up pretty good on steering wheel, provided you have good surface adhesion, and enough coats so it's tough. I did it on my beetle wheel and it worked pretty good for a few years, until a spot where I applied too thin started wearing away
What sort of work and education background do you have that lets you do all this stuff? I'd love to make things like this, but I can't imagine finding the time to do it or being able to afford the tools and materials. I love designing things, I just don't know how people ever afford to actually build cool stuff like land speed cars or Pike's Peak cars. At one point in time, I had designed two cars that I wanted to build. Years later, somebody else built basically the same thing as I had originally envisioned- one of them was the Hoonicorn, the other design went on to win Pike's Peak three times. Could you recommend some direction I could point myself career-wise to better situate myself to actually build things instead of just watching everyone else do it?
I have a mechanical engineering degree and a dozen years as an automotive engineer. You can learn this stuff without that, just takes practice and persistence.
@@SuperfastMatt Well I guess that certainly helps! I'm only a bit above the 'beginner' level on programs like Solid Works, but great at math and calculations. Completed about half of a mechanical engineering degree 15 years ago before quitting (hindsight is 20/20) and moving a different direction. I still buy and read books on racecar design and aerodynamics, just haven't had the opportunity to actually build anything. Trying to teach myself more about electrical ideas to support what I hope to be my first real project- a steam-powered land speed car with electric steam generator! Would you have any recommendations on possible books or other sources to learn about all the computations to consider in a piston-driven steam engine? In school again now for data analytics, so time is at a premium, but if I can order some books now then I can read them and really get a solid design knocked out this summer.
It would be nice to be able to replace the switches, so perhaps the better adhesive to lock a threaded fastener would be a thread adhesive, such as one of the Loctite Threadlockers.
@@brianb-p6586 in this instance a blob of super glue is actually the better choice as it can be put on a small spot on the outside of the nut. This can easily be broken loose where as an actual thread locker needs to go on the inside of the nut and may require many times more force to remove. I actually speak from experience in this case.
![How to Make a Race Car Steering Wheel with Prepreg Carbon Fiber [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bDFs_Wr7vZo/mqdefault.jpg)
At least you will have a backup career designing adult toys if you ever need it
Or possible future merch
@@SuperfastMatt 🤣😂🤣
@@SuperfastMatt I’m in for two
@@SuperfastMatt I'm starting to see a pattern here
@@SuperfastMatt sounds like a pain in the ass to pull off
here's an idea for next time, do the hand squeeze mold in the same epoxy material, but then 3D scan it and "relax" the 3D model before you 3D print it to get a potentially smoother end result
We thought about this, and we might still scan it and print new grips with the hand shape already in them.
I'd try a 3-step molding - a thinner initial contour squeeze, sanding, then squeezing a thin 'sheet' around that to get the final shape & thickness with less lumpiness.
This was how I would have approached it as well. You scan clay that he's gripped, and then clean up the 3D model.
Then you could print it out with a softer grip material or print out a mold and then add polyurethane grips directly to the carbon wheel.
One nice thing about squeezing to scanning to cad to something workflow is you can use all sorts of materials for the original mold depending on what you're trying to get an impression of. Low temp Thermo plastics like in sports mouth guards, medium temp like kydex, I got a pretty good scan of inside a shoe once buy putting a plastic bag in the shoe and filling with two part expanding foam and scanning that (after glueing the broken pieces from taking it out of the shoe.)
Then you can smooth a lot of the surfaces in CAD either by editing the mesh or fiddling with the fitting parameters when getting a surface from the mesh. And finally once you have a CAD model you can make the part in any material.
Of course that's a lot of talk that represents days of work and years of experience. Matt did that portion of the thing in a couple hours with the epoxy so... That's worth something too.
Or you could simply make the dildi from a lightweight, soft wood, such as balsa. Then have the driver hold the wheel in a comfortable position and kick him smartly in the nuts. You should end up with impressions in the wood perfectly matching his hands. If it isn't as precise as you would like, just repeat until satisfactory results have been achieved. All hail
As usual, the stick-on logo thing adds 5hp.
Always stay to the end.
I'm glad I read this, I'd paused just before to read the comments
Tip for Super Glue, ventilation. Put a fan blowing across the project. The fumes get blown away before they can settle making white residue.
Good tip
Valuable comment. Thanks.
I’m going to use this tip. Ty
i had those fumes attack my eyes when i built one of my rc planes. the wing is built with super glue. super glue sticks to balsa like crazy and also much lighter than epoxy
I like how the gloves made the grips look veiny, really ties in the theme.
When I heard you say " and I will drill the holes later " I knew you were in for some ruined drill bits. it's like trying to drill a grindstone.
For the record, we don’t ”hit the bell” because your video thumbnails are consistently eye catching enough to not need a new video notification.
My nifty algorithm killing trick is to bookmark ua-cam.com/users/feedsubscriptions and use that instead of the homepage - I never miss a video!
it helps the algorithm though
And notifications are annoying. When i have time i watch my "subscribed" backlog.
This. I haven't missed a new video in forever, cause they just show up and I enjoy.
The bell icon is a bit useless... Even Gmail thinks so and hides my notifications under a different tab, so I never see them. As a result I've turned the bell off.
00:40 if you want a natural wood to look darker use walnut grain stain. It's water soluble and transparent.
I was about to say, you can get great wood stain that will make any natural wood any beautiful color dark or medium or light... It's beautiful stuff.
Water soluble
Send cut send shipping to Canada is great news for Canada and therefore the world.
im not a big racecar guy buy love watching you build stuff, but now i feel invested in this driver doing well, good racing buddy!
If I smashed that bell icon any harder it would collapse into a neutron star
If you smashed it any harder Matt would make it into a steering wheel.
There's no way I'm going to smash any annoying bell icon... Unless Matt 3-D scans my member so I could also give my wife a personal steering wheel... Then maybe.
I've also had good success using tennis grip tape wrapped over a 3D print to make a grippy touch surface on a carbon steering wheel!
I'm so glad you went on Hoonigan. otherwise I may have never found this gem of a channel.
Next time, try Sugru for the grip material. we actually used this for professional racing.
Pretty sure what he used was the same compound as Sugru, without the ridiculous price.
@@ryanlangan1060 OMG. How is =that= a thing? 🔥🔥🔥
@@ryanlangan1060 turns out the millions they spend in F1 is for 40 packs of Sugru for the grips!
Here's the real "pro" tip. But you'd kinda need to work with composites to feel confident enough doing it or just do a handful of tests. But I make my own home made epoxy putty for custom speargun grips. I use a thin RTM epoxy resin totally loaded up with microballoons and then add a bit of chopped carbon fiber. The microballoons will make the putty very light. So light that it actually floats, so it's less then 1g/cm3 and lighter and cheaper than any putty out there if you already have the "ingredients" around. The chopped CF add strength and takes the brittleness out of an only-microballoon mix.
Mix it, let it sit until it goes a bit "green" and then you will have a workable putty that will hold its shape well.
Oh! Use soapy water on the latex gloves and it wont stick to the gloves either.
@@ryanlangan1060 Maybe I'm a high roller and just didn't know it, but $18 for an 8-pack of Sugru seems okay to me, tbh...?
Great job as always, and I have to say I absolutely love the dry delivery of your jokes. Are you sure you're not British? Keep up the good work!
I'm kinda digging the passive aggressive calls to action. Makes me feel warm and fuzzy. Pretty sure I've got big issues. All hail the algorithm!
I hit the bell a long time ago, the algorithm notified me 16 hours later. all hail the algorithm.
Hit the Bell, bell, bell... do it.
Is that the S600 running again? Can't wait for it.
Never miss the opportunity to put knobs on everything. A friend asked me for a carved wooden handle for a sword. Guess what he got?
A pommel?
Happy to be apart of that 5.6%
Apart from that.....
greetings from japan! hopefully we are a big enough percentage so that sendcutsend will ship here as well!
Jeez. Ok. Ok. I hit the damn bell. Your videos are worth it. Maybe.
favorite automotive engineering channel
Quasimodo’d that bell 🔔
Gotta keep the Esmeralgarithm happy 😃
The wheel looks great , I’m just not sure how I feel about a knob in each hand tho.
Just think of it as a sex toy in each hand...
"That looks great... Totally inappropriate, but great"
Once again showing why this is the best channel on UA-cam
As someone who is building sim racing and race car wheels for ten years now, this is a good first shot but there are defenetly parts to improve.
First i would use a solid 5mm prepreg carbon fibre sheet instead of 2 plates and add super glue. The strength of carbon is based on different thinks but layer adhesion is one important and i am not trusting that super glue bond as much as a fully cured epoxy. Then you can cnc cut the step holes aswell as the regular go through holes instead of drilling them as you said. While drilling with dull tools, you will get a lot of heat into the matrix and that can weaken the carbon. You used high quality grayhill rotary switches but there are defenetly better buttons out there from APEM, OTTO Controls, EATON etc. The CNC cover has some nasty vibration marks on it. Maybe a clean up pass and sandblasting before anodizing would be a good idea for a better finish. Last you can design you grips in CAD and FDM print the grips for ergonomy tests. When you are happy you can print molds and just make your custom rubber grips. Add some holes to your carbon grip struckture and you are good to go.
Proper formula steering wheels are very nice, had worked on F3 and other formulas, they are heavy but feel amazing in your hands.
I love that 9% use English (not US English, that's 0.1%) subtitles. They must wonder WTF alooooominum is
Very cool! Since you have a 3D scanner, could it have been a possibility to have Robin squeeze some grips for a reference, 3D scan those reference grips. Then import that into CAD for post-processing so you can make 3D prints of the final product.
Loving the British Nob gags! Oh, and the fine mechanical engineering content, obviously.
I’m in Canada (have already pressed the bell icon) and I am very excited about Send Cut Send sending to Canada
The 'knobs' on the grips would have looked awesome with the SuperfastMatt logo molded into them - next one maybe. All Hail The Algorithm!
Thanks for being my favorite UA-cam channel. Oh, and telling about that bell thing; I never even noticed that before.
When you’re drilling carbon fiber or thin metal try sandwiching it between two pieces of wood it reduces tear out immensely
You know, I have never hit the bell before. I've got lots of subscriptions. Too many probably. Yet never hit the bell... But damn... that pleading look at the end got me. So there you go. I hope you heard it.
Lived in Colorado all my life, drove up pikes peak once for fun, and knew about the hill climb but never went. Cool to see your work on a car that could very well win this year. Might have to go for the first time to see it live!
Wheel looks good. You could try hockey grip tape to clean up the looks of those grips.
All hail the algorithm
I was rather pleased with myself when I made my first steering wheel for the 64 Bug I had just bought.
I named it "Vice Grip" after the Vice Grips now pretending to be a steering wheel.
Dereck from Vice Grip Garage would be impressed.
As a plastic modeler, that white film i have found is the cyano fumes reacting with and oils/grease on the object.
If you can it's much better to cut fiber composites with carbide (or even better, diamond) tooling. If I had a lot of holes to drill in GFRP or CFRP I'd actually be tempted to use a diamond tipped holesaw, as is often sold for drilling concrete or tiles. If you need to cut up a large sheet, you can buy table saw blades with polycrystalline diamond tips (they're intended for working with MDF) that might do a good job. I happen to own a lapidary saw for cutting rocks, so I would probably use that with a diamond abrasive blade, this being a less scary option.
The other thing to watch out for is the high rake angle of a regular twist drill will tend to 'pull in' and delaminate the layers of the composite. This can be avoided by 'dubbing' the drill, basically you get a small sharpening stone and grind the cutting edges back a few thou (maybe 0.2-0.5 mm in metric) so they have neutral rake, the same as you would do for drilling brass.
Some else suggested a "dagger bit", and when I looked online for that style most of them seemed to be intended for composites, and made of carbide. Apparently the geometry of the dagger bit reduces delamination.
"geesh" there I hit the bell ! Love your videos
As always great video, but since I make molded, custom grips for my spearguns I may have something to add;). If he wears race gloves he ideally needs to wear those under the latex gloves when making the grip. Even thin gloves will space your fingers out a few mm so if he didn't wear them when doing the "imprint", it will sadly not fit that well afterwards.
I should add my "pro" tip. But you'd kinda need to work with composites to feel confident enough doing it or just do some tests. But when I make my custom grips I use a home made epoxy putty. I use a thin RTM epoxy resin loaded up with microballoons and then add a bit of chopped carbon fiber. The microballoons will make the putty light. Actually, so ligh that it floats, so it's less then 1g/cm3 and def lighte than any putty out there. And cheaper, too if you already have the "ingredients" around. The chopped CF adds strength and takes the brittleness out of an only-microballoon mix.
Agreed, I thought it odd that he didn’t wear his racing gloves
Now that you've called us Canadians out I'll hit the bell. You deserve that much.
If you make parts from two layers of commercial carbon sheet, you can get slightly better performance by orienting them at 45 degrees to one another when they are cut.
This is because most commercial sheet is strongly anisotropic, it has the majority of fibres aligned in the 0 and 90 degree orientations (they will be in the same orientation as the surface twill which can be seen in the video of the parts as cut) so it will be noticeably more flexible and weaker when bent off these axes (minimumis logically at 45 degrees). If you re-orient the second sheet at 45 degrees and bond them together you now have fibres aligned on four axes so you will be closer to isotropic.
Also, if available in the correct size, the diamond tipped holesaws used for tiles work very well on carbon sheet. I cut halfway through from one side, flip the part and finish from the other side and get multiple very clean cuts. The centre disc does have a bad habit of lodging in the holesaw barrel though.
Old and busted: "All hail the Hypnotoad!"
New hotness: "All hail the Algorithm!
Man those grips are just so... Middle school art project level
You are the only channel where I clicked the bell out of my 75 subnscriptions. All hail the algorithm.
Canadian here, that’s great news!!!
The carbon dust is also very very good for giving you permanent lung damage if cut in a poorly ventilated space. It's also electrically conductive, so its great to have that graphite dust floating around if you work with electronics.
Hell, even wood dust is carcinogenic. If you're fabricating anything, ventilation is a very good idea
Can’t beat a bit of carbon fibre. 😀 hail the thingie.
Cool to see the wheel help win the 100th running.
You, your projects and your channel are freaking awesome! Thank you very much!
It's almost 4AM and I was planning to watch this video and go to bed. Well, I have been laughing my but off through it and now I am wide awake.. Well worth it!!! I love to laugh!!
Matt, do me a favor and never change…
Another wonderful exhibition of engineering and creativity.
First time of my life someone almost convinced me to hit that bell. almost.
Bondo is a cheap alternative to molding epoxy, and it holds up surprisingly well. I made a set of hand-fitting grips for my old Ruger .44 Blackhawk, and they have held up great for about 15 years now.
Bell hit, as directed. You've got a boss and now I feel like you're my boss. I also understand commenting tickles the algorithm. You're welcome.
I don't like the bell. Your followers are all old enough to look for your videos when they have the time to watch them.
Great as always
I don't hit the bell because I don't have the app and hate unnecessary notifications
but I watch every one of your videos regardless because I enjoy your content
Have you ever fumed wood before. Try sticking your maple in a bag or sealed bin with a bit of ammonia. The fumes activate the tannin in the wood artificially age and darken the material. Takes less energy than baking it in your oven. Also, a little bit of gelled wood stain will do the same thing.
the thikdog thread made me hit the bell - shivers
Adding the logo to the steering wheel is what, +2 acceleration boost or +1 handling?
I unLOLed.
@@mytrashaccount3630
de-thaw
divide by zero
un-tighten
unLOLed
thanks for adding to my collection of angry little confusion
@@David-gk2ml People see anger, hate everywhere, nowadays
i so enjoy these videos , this one is no exception! my favorite part (as if you can have one ) , is the very end when that honda sparks to life! damn i want one!
I love it! Finally, a youtube video showing someone using a centerdrill.
The bell at the end bit was suitable
Do you have the link to where you got the paddle shifter buttons?
Nice... Will use ur advice for carbon fibre backing plate with controls for my Momo wheel...
2:52 Because I don't need to hit the bell to get every single one of your videos recommended. All hail the algorithm!
I'm in Canada and saw this week that sentvutsent do ship to canada now, goog new
I was just watching a response video on pikes peak of Jimmy Broadbent, the new wheel looks amazing in action!
Great work! For some reason I’m most impressed by the logo. Very nice.
Most single seater race car drivers use hockey/racket grip take or cycling bar tape which works well and looks marginally better than the stuff you used
Almost made me subscribe this time
I thoroughly enjoyed your excellent production. Thanks.
Yours is officially the only channel I have EVER hit the bell on. You're welcome...
.
But actually, thanks for your content, just some of the absolute best.
The bell has been hit. Great work on the wheel.
As an Aussie it's heartening to see we top Canada in your viewership numbers. I am definitely not a car guy, fwiw. Great project, will the salt flats eRocket get a similar treatment?
I was about to swear you and say "I will NOT make one - you´re not my father!". Than I read "Or just watch me do it" and, "oh, okay then". Now I´ve watched, and, f**k, I´ll have to make one of my own. Darn it!
Great video, again!
PlastiDip will hold up pretty good on steering wheel, provided you have good surface adhesion, and enough coats so it's tough. I did it on my beetle wheel and it worked pretty good for a few years, until a spot where I applied too thin started wearing away
nice video. if the plasti dip doesnt work out maybe tennis grip tape could be worth a try
Tennis grip tape is wonderful, but it's not very durable wouldn't want it fraying off in 120 mile an hour turn.
What sort of work and education background do you have that lets you do all this stuff? I'd love to make things like this, but I can't imagine finding the time to do it or being able to afford the tools and materials. I love designing things, I just don't know how people ever afford to actually build cool stuff like land speed cars or Pike's Peak cars. At one point in time, I had designed two cars that I wanted to build. Years later, somebody else built basically the same thing as I had originally envisioned- one of them was the Hoonicorn, the other design went on to win Pike's Peak three times. Could you recommend some direction I could point myself career-wise to better situate myself to actually build things instead of just watching everyone else do it?
I have a mechanical engineering degree and a dozen years as an automotive engineer. You can learn this stuff without that, just takes practice and persistence.
@@SuperfastMatt Well I guess that certainly helps! I'm only a bit above the 'beginner' level on programs like Solid Works, but great at math and calculations. Completed about half of a mechanical engineering degree 15 years ago before quitting (hindsight is 20/20) and moving a different direction. I still buy and read books on racecar design and aerodynamics, just haven't had the opportunity to actually build anything. Trying to teach myself more about electrical ideas to support what I hope to be my first real project- a steam-powered land speed car with electric steam generator! Would you have any recommendations on possible books or other sources to learn about all the computations to consider in a piston-driven steam engine? In school again now for data analytics, so time is at a premium, but if I can order some books now then I can read them and really get a solid design knocked out this summer.
i hit the bell! love the range of videos you make.
#algorithm
Thanks for the video!
All hail the Algorithm
Your subconcious is trying to tell you something Matt - Algorhithm hailed; bell-end clicked...
Just found your channel! It’s awesome and thank you for sharing videos with us! Going to binge watch as I have the day off!
The 5.6% get the knob joke because we have a sense of humour.
re 8:30 using The Magic Word might turn the algorithm on, enough to produce some happy results
It's good to see steering wheels fitted on the side that God intended.
Very high rpm with a carbide brad point bit for drilling through carbon. Downcut if you can find em.
Super glue the nuts on the switches etc they will vibrate loose even with a lock washer.
Just a blob you can chip off will do.
It would be nice to be able to replace the switches, so perhaps the better adhesive to lock a threaded fastener would be a thread adhesive, such as one of the Loctite Threadlockers.
@@brianb-p6586 in this instance a blob of super glue is actually the better choice as it can be put on a small spot on the outside of the nut. This can easily be broken loose where as an actual thread locker needs to go on the inside of the nut and may require many times more force to remove.
I actually speak from experience in this case.
The boss section of the videos was awesome keep saying it that way
That was amazing
That was the best outro, by far, that I have seen in pretty much any video... the truth, and funny, and sad, but funny 😎
I have the bellend! Wait, "bell on"
Another great video! I subscribe to several dozen build channels, but this is only one of three that I hit the bell on. "All hail the algorithm!"
God I wish these were longer. So great to watch!
Wonderfully entertaining and informative!