The number of times I've gone to the garage to "look at something" only to get carried away and end up burning a hole in my shoes or caking them in grinder dust... it is the natural order of things.
I do the opposite.. To paraphrase Richard Dawkins: "The number of times I've gone to the garage with intentions of getting things done and end up standing around smoking and watching youtube, outnumber the sandgrains of Sahara"
On the way to the rehearsal dinner my father in law's jeep broke down, my dad and I went right to fixing it. My wife was not happy, and my mother responded "look at his father, this will not change"
I love how you fixed your oil stained shoes by simply adding more oil to stain them uniformly. Most likely conditioned the leather now so they could last longer.
My ex did a similar thing when I ruined a new, rather fancy, rather expensive and my only shirt the first time I wore it. I dropped a bit of butter on it which ruined the nap or the sheen or whatever it's called... I'm no fabricologist. It never occurred to me to just dunk the whole thing in vegetable oil but it worked a treat.
What weight of oil did you use? I had the same thing happen, so I just added more to the rest to make it look consistent. Problem was during the winter, until my shoes warmed up, I got a really bad insole slap that eventually wreaked havoc and was left stranded on the side of the road,,,,😂
@@shakeydavesr depends on the shoes. with work boots its better to use a thicker more heavy duty oil that can hold up to the abuse, whereas with runners a lighter oil is better because it increases efficiency of the shoe allowing for slightly better performance.
Once you finally set a record with your land speed car, you should drain the oil from that day and sell it as limited edition leather shoe conditioner.
I made an optical pickup for an old Suzuki engine. It was glorious. Just a phototransistor, infrared LED, mosfet and JB weld. VASTLY superior to the magnetic pickup. All that magnetic noise and hysteresis just goes away and you get a beautifully clean signal. In that case it even worked with the stock encoder wheel. You can even park it right next to the stator on the dry side of the crank. If you're having signal issues I highly recommend going optical.
@@darekmistrz4364 Remember those really old computer mice that had the ball in them? I took the phototransistor and LED out of an old computer mouse, added a couple other components then slathered it in JB Weld. It was pretty ghetto but it worked amazing. You can make one very, very easily. If I were to do it again I'd probably throw some aluminum on my mill and machine a proper bracket, and probably use a little pen laser module instead of an LED.
What I'm hearing is that the Microsquirt doesn't have a zero crossing detector. This was a point of contention very early in Megasquirt history. Al didn't want to use the LM1815 off-the-shelf zero crossing detector "because he was told it was going to be EOL" and so the MS didn't get a VR interface. However, you could make a perfectly serviceable discrete Zero Crossing detector with an LM139. Meanwhile, the LM1815 is still readily available 20 years later, in fact I see that DIYautotune sells them!
Lovely... and extremely pertinent as I too was struggling with the problem just yesterday! You didn't mention the Microsquirt noise filtering facility for the crank trigger, which can be mapped with engine speed, giving you that "BMW facility" on which you waxed lyrical. It's in the Ignition settings tab and fixed all my remaining issues. You're welcome.
Yeah, basic dc voltages are fairly simple but once you start shaking them on long unshielded wires weird shit starts happening and those capacitive coupled/reflected/basically antennas get a bit complicated to diagnose without the right tools.
My dad is a commercial electrician and he constantly refers to “magic smoke” it’s nice to see that other people have in depth knowledge of electrical devices as well
I love this channel so much. Not only does it teach me about vehicles I probably otherwise wouldn’t care to learn about but it also applies engineering principles to your project cars. Leaving me invaluable knowledge about how to approach things. Also made me realize that spending 3x the money to do something yourself only to buy the proper solution is a way of life and something that’s probably never going to stop me.
By adding a resistor in parallel you are just decreasing the overall input impedance of your controller. The voltage stays the same. By adding a resistor in series with a controller input you are creating a voltage divider and increasing input impedance. To reduce the noise you could insert a low-pass filter, which would filter everything above highest engine frequency.
Great content! I just wanna suggest try using a shop-vac to catch the stray metal dusts. You can pretty easily modify the vacuum hose attachments by heating the plastic with a heat gun to help it them fit in those little areas and be used simultaneously with your grinder tool, etc.
Also put some (duct) tape in the hole, sticky side toward the grinder, you catch most of the shavings, and you can block off the opening to your oil pan.
My 1930 Model A Ford engine idles at 400 rpm and zings up to its redline of 1,800 or so. The flywheel weighs more than 50 pounds. You can easily count the individual firing pulses. A different set of issues.
The 40k had me sucked in. I thought that there is no way you're going to get a 10k rpm motorbike motor spinning to 40k and not have it self destruct. It would have let the magic smoke out of the crankcase and anything else in the way.
I'm not sure how important it is, and I'm sure you have a safety check prior to events but I noticed your shock collars (shock body not preload) spinning under your full rpm test (when it finally gave back all of the beans), so be sure to check things over for torque. I'd hate to see you lose some bits or worse because of nvh.
A - you are my favorite youtuber at this point. B - i wanted a cheap reliable VPN anyway. C - I got to support my favorite youtuber by using his affiliate link. Yay this makes me so happy.
There is nothing in this world finer than having someone solve a problem you didn’t know you were about to have. I’m microsquirting my ZXR250 LSR bike… I had SCS laser me a timing wheel too, which I replaced the stock one with. I was skeptical that it’d be able to keep up with my timing wheel at 19,000 RPM, and watching this video told me I was right, WHY it was gonna break and how to fix it… plus to go look on the board instead of doing it inline. You win today, you’re my hero.
Neat. To me, this seems like signal acquisition and conditioning issues - if it were I I would design a board that can actively convert the less than ideal sensor signal and “re-generate” or send a buffered “ideal” signal to the ecu. The tricky bit would be to make sure that there is no phase shift, or if there is, that it is consistent through the rpm range so it could be adjusted for… just my .02!
This seems like a pretty good solution; also, maybe if the whole issue is that the threshold needs to climb with RPM, it would just need to be a variable resistor that could change with RPM? All of this is easier said than done though
@@zgrb Yeah, though perhaps in a more “active” sense - eg perhaps the rpm is converted into a control voltage that is used for a comparator to track the right signal from the sensor to derive the pulse from for instance. The issue with the resistors as is, appears to me to be about providing the right impedance to the ecu - an active buffered solution would be a powered device that monitors the sensor and “re-generates” effectively an “ideal” signal to the ecu. By using a lower impedance driver / buffer and a constant pulse magnitude over rpm, I don’t think the resistance to the ecu would be as critical over rpm range. Would be a fun project to mess around with though for sure!
I agree that sounds like an ideal solution, but another tricky bit is making sure the signal conditioner is consistently fast enough. I'm wondering if instead of an active conditioner you could use some form of Schmidt trigger. Not sure that would be any better though. It's one of those things that's easy on paper but gets really complicated in the real world. Would be a fun project to dig into.
Many years ago I had MicroSquirt, and the cam sensor (VR2) circuit couldn't see the low voltage that the cam lobe to OEM sensor produced when cranking on the starter, yet the OEM ECU could. I ended up using a diode, but later units had a a revised VR2 circuit that was more sensitive. There was a unit made by IMFsoft in the Czech Republic that had rpm programmable VR voltage clipping values to cope with the range of AC voltages generated by high revving engines.
It’s somehow satisfying to see the pixie dust cloud rising from the cockpit, it means I’m not the only one burning circuits by reversing the polarity. Just quickly test this thing before supper and poof it went up in smoke…
One 18650 charging circuit dead thanks to reverse polarity, another dead thanks to two 18650s in series. Roughly a few months apart, after using the first one for over a year and a half with no incidents.
All OEM Automotive parts are equipped with reverse polarity protection, as this situation is so common that the immunity is required by the ISO standards. Stop buying parts that are cutting costs in wrong places ;)
@@NukeDMAn oh really, go ahead and swap the terminals in your car and turn it on. Let’s see how many control units will go up in smoke. Have changed my share of customer misshaps reversing the leads.
@7:30, changing the resistor from 10K to 100K will have _less_ effect on the signal, it's a bigger resistor so you'll get much less current throough it. You should have tried 1K.
Brilliant! What did I like the most? Flaming the poster that never got back with the result, forgetting that you already made a timing mark, or oiling both shoes entirely? Probably the shoes. I loved the episode, thank you!
Lol i can't deal with my "I don't know!"s. Even not knowing where a harness zip-clip is supposed to clip drives me nutty. Aw man you let the smoke out the wires! The smoke does all the magic! I accidentally let the smoke out of a dual battery vehicle while trying to discharge the caps... Thanks man! This video explains why there are trigger kits for RBs and other older engines.
I went through the same thing when I was using a Life Racing ECU with a stock Audi 1.8T sensor. The resistor thing sort of works sometimes. Ultimately, the best answer was buying a nice Magnetti Marelli Sensor and using it with the stock 58 tooth wheel
One of the few things I remember from mechatronics class "don't let the smoke out"...oh and Butterworth filter is a funny name (no clue how it works anymore).
There is a circuit element that was designed to get around the problem of reading a noisy analogue sensor, it's called a Schmitt trigger, invented by Otto Schmitt back when motors revved in single digits and electronics used valves (1934). Unlike Matt I'm not being funny: the 10 litre single cylinder Lanz "Bulldog", coincidentally introduced in 1934, will actually run at 1 RPM. Essentially the Schmitt trigger output goes high when the input reaches the pull up threshold and stays high until it reaches the pull down threshold, ignoring any noise that occurs between these states. A modern Schmitt trigger IC costs about $1.
Thanks for having all the crank angle sensor issues. I've been fighting my CAS issues for over a year, this gives me the ... audacity ... to think I can fix my MS3 now.
Sir you NEED an Oscilloscope, watch the raw input, and tap the filtered output of the vr conditioning circuit to the main processor, and you'll be able to see what the ecu see's as logic high and low. Hantek 1008C, it's super helpful.
Grinding down the teeth reminds me of a friend who used a wooden chain tensioner for his timing chain when he pulled the head on his Datsun. He couldn't get the chain tensioner out so he had the brilliant idea of hacking away at it with a wood chisel and vacuuming out all the chips. Then he wondered why he had no compression in one of the cylinders, when he put it all back together. He pulled the valve cover off to find a chunk of wood wedged between the valve and rocker arm. And a whole lot of chunks of wood in the oil pan.
Would adding a coil in series with the sensor fix the problem? That would lower the voltage at high frequencies but not at low frequencies. You could also add a capacitor in parallel or build a more complicated filter out of these components
Ah yes, good old crank sensor issues. These were a problem every year back in my Formula SAE days, especially the VR type. Looks like you need a good oscilloscope so you can probe what the ECU is seeing, would be a good time saver.
When I worked as a marine mechanic I had a colleague who spilled a drop of oil on a brand new teak covered swim platform. He just poured out the rest of the bottle, spread it around with a spatula and wiped up the excess with a rag. Problem solved, never heard from the client about it. Trying to clean it up would have been a disaster.
Damn you with your genius thumbnails!! Great video, love the content. Makes me want to get out in the garage. Thank you for all the hard work that goes into these!!
I've been missing your videos. Glad you've got something broken to work on again. Also, those shoes aren't ruined. They're just custom leopard print now.
@SuperfastMatt BMW is using several variants of hall sensor. Older variants are using naroww head. For example HELLA 6PU 009 163-331. This could be solution.
Wiping the rest of the shoes was also my instant thought as I saw the oil spilling over them. Hey, that's an improvement. Now they are even water repelling 👍
I had the same issue on my mega squirt..... it's megasquirt one with a v2.2 daughter card essentially the same thing in your microsquirt. My trigger setup is Ford Edis 6 as an RPM signal then a Bosch 124 ignition module MSD 6al to a locked distributor... and it hauled ass for years revved to the Moon. one day I had ignition problems and the car was never the same. I could get it to run but it just didn't feel right. I finally figured it out it was a 124 ignition module after an MSD box failed.
The theoretical maximum rpm for an internal combustion engine made from the best materials known to man is not much more than 20,000rpm anything beyond that connecting rods stretch, pistons break, crankshafts snap. We just don't have materials that can handle the extreme g forces that the rotating assembly has to endure at those rpm's.
Back in the early 80s I witnessed two guys rev out their production bikes. Both air-cooled and carbureted. Honda and Kawasaki. Both revved to plus 13000 (WOT) while parked. After a few minutes Honda expired (with a bang) - dropped valve? Kawasaki just kept going - red hot factory headers (so probably dual pipe). And just idled when he let go the throttle. Both 900 0r 1000 cc - can't remember exact models. May have been when Kawasaki was hand porting "big" bike cylinder heads. Carbs can give same or better peak power, just not as drivable as injection. But why so much difficulty revving a modern engine?
Try Private Internet Access: Get 82% off and 4 Months Free: www.piavpn.com/SuperfastMatt
As an FYI, you are about the only YT'er that I remotely trust to promote a VPN service, so I did.
you didn't include the RPM's from the Jag, the comically large scooter, the drill press, or the bicycles...
You should get one of those cheapo handheld oscilloscopes. Its really useful when you wanna find out why something is not working.
@@hoffmanbike hoffmambike, extra points.....
Okay, i have to know. Which engine can take days to turn a full cycle once? Google isn't being cooperative.
All that oil gushing out cleaned the shavings out of the oil pan. Good thinking 👍
Why change the oil if you only need to fill it up
I had a car like this. Saved a lot on filters.
@@timlamein9637 something something nissan vq engines
Positive [ish] Pressure Rinse!
turned it into a total loss engine just like speedway bikes
The number of times I've gone to the garage to "look at something" only to get carried away and end up burning a hole in my shoes or caking them in grinder dust... it is the natural order of things.
I do the opposite..
To paraphrase Richard Dawkins:
"The number of times I've gone to the garage with intentions of getting things done and end up standing around smoking and watching youtube, outnumber the sandgrains of Sahara"
I don’t have any nice clothes. I just have clothes that I haven’t ruined yet.
@@SuperfastMatt scoot over, i'm in that same boat
@@SuperfastMatt I had some nice shirts. They all have welding spatter holes in them now. I no longer buy nice shirts.
On the way to the rehearsal dinner my father in law's jeep broke down, my dad and I went right to fixing it. My wife was not happy, and my mother responded "look at his father, this will not change"
"We do these things not because they are easy, but because we thought they would be easy"
A wise man once said, anytime you hear someone say "that's easy" that is a person who does not understand the problem.
@@joels7605 100% truth.
wow! how do i relate so much to this
2:25 I love the effort that went into "flipping" the graph, except it still went positive first. 😂😂
My animation skills top out at Keynote, which allows rotate but not mirror. I thought, “Nobody but Eric will notice.”
@@SuperfastMatt Does that also make me Eric?
David noticed too
Damn, I don't want to be an Eric, but now I am... 😔
Don't be Eric t-shirt please🤔
I love how you fixed your oil stained shoes by simply adding more oil to stain them uniformly. Most likely conditioned the leather now so they could last longer.
Its what i woud have done just not on purpose
My ex did a similar thing when I ruined a new, rather fancy, rather expensive and my only shirt the first time I wore it. I dropped a bit of butter on it which ruined the nap or the sheen or whatever it's called... I'm no fabricologist. It never occurred to me to just dunk the whole thing in vegetable oil but it worked a treat.
for the next 10,000 km
What weight of oil did you use? I had the same thing happen, so I just added more to the rest to make it look consistent.
Problem was during the winter, until my shoes warmed up, I got a really bad insole slap that eventually wreaked havoc and was left stranded on the side of the road,,,,😂
@@shakeydavesr depends on the shoes. with work boots its better to use a thicker more heavy duty oil that can hold up to the abuse, whereas with runners a lighter oil is better because it increases efficiency of the shoe allowing for slightly better performance.
Once you finally set a record with your land speed car, you should drain the oil from that day and sell it as limited edition leather shoe conditioner.
Limited Edition World Record Holding Leather Shoe Conditioner.
Perhaps it's just that I work for an oscilloscope company, but my gut reaction was "hey let's stick a scope on the sensor"
I bought an oscilloscope just for home for this very reason aha! Though the ecu tuning software does have a 'built in trigger scope'
I made an optical pickup for an old Suzuki engine. It was glorious. Just a phototransistor, infrared LED, mosfet and JB weld. VASTLY superior to the magnetic pickup. All that magnetic noise and hysteresis just goes away and you get a beautifully clean signal. In that case it even worked with the stock encoder wheel. You can even park it right next to the stator on the dry side of the crank. If you're having signal issues I highly recommend going optical.
Look at you with your fancy optical pickup. Flexing on us magnetic pickup guys like that!
I should try that for an old honda engine I'm rebuilding, I'm already modding the hell out of it so why not
@@darekmistrz4364 Remember those really old computer mice that had the ball in them? I took the phototransistor and LED out of an old computer mouse, added a couple other components then slathered it in JB Weld. It was pretty ghetto but it worked amazing. You can make one very, very easily. If I were to do it again I'd probably throw some aluminum on my mill and machine a proper bracket, and probably use a little pen laser module instead of an LED.
@@joels7605 Look at you flexing with you mill on us poor driveway-workshop guys like that!
Once you go optical you’ll never go … floptical?
All hail the aligator!
What I'm hearing is that the Microsquirt doesn't have a zero crossing detector. This was a point of contention very early in Megasquirt history. Al didn't want to use the LM1815 off-the-shelf zero crossing detector "because he was told it was going to be EOL" and so the MS didn't get a VR interface. However, you could make a perfectly serviceable discrete Zero Crossing detector with an LM139. Meanwhile, the LM1815 is still readily available 20 years later, in fact I see that DIYautotune sells them!
Is this the verbal version of magic smoke?
@@OperationDarkside It means that the input works with normal crank sensors and doesn't require a hall-effect ignition pickup.
The perfect antidote to modern life depression ...... engineering, science, bodging and subtle humour. Keep up the good work!
and as mentioned in a previous episode...spending 4x as much trying to cobble a 1x solution that you thought was too expensive to begin with.
Lovely... and extremely pertinent as I too was struggling with the problem just yesterday! You didn't mention the Microsquirt noise filtering facility for the crank trigger, which can be mapped with engine speed, giving you that "BMW facility" on which you waxed lyrical. It's in the Ignition settings tab and fixed all my remaining issues. You're welcome.
See, but if he did that. He would have ruined a perfectly good pair of shoes for nothing. Much better to laser cut and weld new parts.
Excellent result. I would think an oscilloscope might be useful for sorting out this kind of problem or befriend an electronics engineer 😀
He has an oscilloscope. Used it in the Tesla door handle video for example.
That is basically only reason I bought oscilloscope for - to diagnose ignition and rpm trigger signal problems :D
Pretty sure Matt is a EE and has a sillyscope
The mega squirt/tuner studio basically has one built in.
Yeah, basic dc voltages are fairly simple but once you start shaking them on long unshielded wires weird shit starts happening and those capacitive coupled/reflected/basically antennas get a bit complicated to diagnose without the right tools.
My dad is a commercial electrician and he constantly refers to “magic smoke” it’s nice to see that other people have in depth knowledge of electrical devices as well
I love this channel so much. Not only does it teach me about vehicles I probably otherwise wouldn’t care to learn about but it also applies engineering principles to your project cars. Leaving me invaluable knowledge about how to approach things.
Also made me realize that spending 3x the money to do something yourself only to buy the proper solution is a way of life and something that’s probably never going to stop me.
By adding a resistor in parallel you are just decreasing the overall input impedance of your controller. The voltage stays the same. By adding a resistor in series with a controller input you are creating a voltage divider and increasing input impedance. To reduce the noise you could insert a low-pass filter, which would filter everything above highest engine frequency.
The VR sensor has fairly high internal resistance (on the order of 1kohm), so the parallel resistor also drops the voltage at the input.
I want to learn how to trust the way Matt trusts oil filters
I love my slow turning Ford Model A engine. when on a trip i miss no radio.
Haha! I'd love to see them Superfast boys get theyselves out of THIS one!
As long as Matt doesn’t put on Daisy dukes…
@@rb70383 Coming soon! Matt's significant other (is he married?) wears Daisy Dukes!
@@austinclark8727 Wondered that with garage speed runs !
Did I get baited by 40.000 rpm? yep and I do feel silly about it, always great humor on this channel!
Great content! I just wanna suggest try using a shop-vac to catch the stray metal dusts. You can pretty easily modify the vacuum hose attachments by heating the plastic with a heat gun to help it them fit in those little areas and be used simultaneously with your grinder tool, etc.
Nice tip. Ta :)
Also put some (duct) tape in the hole, sticky side toward the grinder, you catch most of the shavings, and you can block off the opening to your oil pan.
Shoe “polish”. Nicely done.
Those Dukes of Hazzard match cuts are taking me back to my childhood! 😊
I would've been hugely dissapointed if the 701 wasn't part of the total rev count.
The oiling of the shoes at the end was great. Really enjoyed the deep dive into triggering problems.
Considering the severe drought California is currently experiencing you should really start scheduling more races you want to attend.
This comment needs more appreciation
aaaaaand this didn't age well haha
Speaking of revs, my Trabant 601 has a 2-stroke engine and it only revs to 4200, with peak torque at 3800.
There's your problem right there. 😀.
Well, one of your problems.
My 1930 Model A Ford engine idles at 400 rpm and zings up to its redline of 1,800 or so. The flywheel weighs more than 50 pounds. You can easily count the individual firing pulses. A different set of issues.
@@davesmith9325 Trabant disposal big problem, no ?
The 40k had me sucked in. I thought that there is no way you're going to get a 10k rpm motorbike motor spinning to 40k and not have it self destruct. It would have let the magic smoke out of the crankcase and anything else in the way.
Waterproof shoes, nice
That's the most satisfying set of loosely connected events I've seen in a while.
I'm not sure how important it is, and I'm sure you have a safety check prior to events but I noticed your shock collars (shock body not preload) spinning under your full rpm test (when it finally gave back all of the beans), so be sure to check things over for torque. I'd hate to see you lose some bits or worse because of nvh.
A - you are my favorite youtuber at this point.
B - i wanted a cheap reliable VPN anyway.
C - I got to support my favorite youtuber by using his affiliate link. Yay this makes me so happy.
My electrical engineering schooling taught me exactly what you explained. Magic smoke is what makes electronics work.
Glad the solution isn't just to throw resistors at wires and crossing fingers
There is nothing in this world finer than having someone solve a problem you didn’t know you were about to have. I’m microsquirting my ZXR250 LSR bike… I had SCS laser me a timing wheel too, which I replaced the stock one with. I was skeptical that it’d be able to keep up with my timing wheel at 19,000 RPM, and watching this video told me I was right, WHY it was gonna break and how to fix it… plus to go look on the board instead of doing it inline.
You win today, you’re my hero.
Neat. To me, this seems like signal acquisition and conditioning issues - if it were I I would design a board that can actively convert the less than ideal sensor signal and “re-generate” or send a buffered “ideal” signal to the ecu. The tricky bit would be to make sure that there is no phase shift, or if there is, that it is consistent through the rpm range so it could be adjusted for… just my .02!
This seems like a pretty good solution; also, maybe if the whole issue is that the threshold needs to climb with RPM, it would just need to be a variable resistor that could change with RPM? All of this is easier said than done though
@@zgrb Yeah, though perhaps in a more “active” sense - eg perhaps the rpm is converted into a control voltage that is used for a comparator to track the right signal from the sensor to derive the pulse from for instance. The issue with the resistors as is, appears to me to be about providing the right impedance to the ecu - an active buffered solution would be a powered device that monitors the sensor and “re-generates” effectively an “ideal” signal to the ecu. By using a lower impedance driver / buffer and a constant pulse magnitude over rpm, I don’t think the resistance to the ecu would be as critical over rpm range.
Would be a fun project to mess around with though for sure!
I agree that sounds like an ideal solution, but another tricky bit is making sure the signal conditioner is consistently fast enough. I'm wondering if instead of an active conditioner you could use some form of Schmidt trigger. Not sure that would be any better though. It's one of those things that's easy on paper but gets really complicated in the real world. Would be a fun project to dig into.
Castrol please sponsor this man!!!!!
Many years ago I had MicroSquirt, and the cam sensor (VR2) circuit couldn't see the low voltage that the cam lobe to OEM sensor produced when cranking on the starter, yet the OEM ECU could. I ended up using a diode, but later units had a a revised VR2 circuit that was more sensitive. There was a unit made by IMFsoft in the Czech Republic that had rpm programmable VR voltage clipping values to cope with the range of AC voltages generated by high revving engines.
It’s somehow satisfying to see the pixie dust cloud rising from the cockpit, it means I’m not the only one burning circuits by reversing the polarity. Just quickly test this thing before supper and poof it went up in smoke…
One 18650 charging circuit dead thanks to reverse polarity, another dead thanks to two 18650s in series.
Roughly a few months apart, after using the first one for over a year and a half with no incidents.
All OEM Automotive parts are equipped with reverse polarity protection, as this situation is so common that the immunity is required by the ISO standards. Stop buying parts that are cutting costs in wrong places ;)
@@NukeDMAn oh really, go ahead and swap the terminals in your car and turn it on. Let’s see how many control units will go up in smoke. Have changed my share of customer misshaps reversing the leads.
i always solder diodes in series, usually helps. unless the diode breaks too
4:23 - Biggest smile I've ever seen! Well done Matt.
@7:30, changing the resistor from 10K to 100K will have _less_ effect on the signal, it's a bigger resistor so you'll get much less current throough it. You should have tried 1K.
I also tried 1k. I tried so many ohms.
@@SuperfastMatt 🤣 I should have guessed. You should think about a cheap oscilloscope?
Brilliant! What did I like the most? Flaming the poster that never got back with the result, forgetting that you already made a timing mark, or oiling both shoes entirely? Probably the shoes. I loved the episode, thank you!
Lol i can't deal with my "I don't know!"s. Even not knowing where a harness zip-clip is supposed to clip drives me nutty. Aw man you let the smoke out the wires! The smoke does all the magic! I accidentally let the smoke out of a dual battery vehicle while trying to discharge the caps... Thanks man! This video explains why there are trigger kits for RBs and other older engines.
I went through the same thing when I was using a Life Racing ECU with a stock Audi 1.8T sensor. The resistor thing sort of works sometimes. Ultimately, the best answer was buying a nice Magnetti Marelli Sensor and using it with the stock 58 tooth wheel
One of the few things I remember from mechatronics class "don't let the smoke out"...oh and Butterworth filter is a funny name (no clue how it works anymore).
2:43 The BMW grom 😮
Top tier technical entertainment.
Your subtle, deadpan sense of humor had me laughing out loud, not subtly or deadpan at all.
There is a circuit element that was designed to get around the problem of reading a noisy analogue sensor, it's called a Schmitt trigger, invented by Otto Schmitt back when motors revved in single digits and electronics used valves (1934).
Unlike Matt I'm not being funny: the 10 litre single cylinder Lanz "Bulldog", coincidentally introduced in 1934, will actually run at 1 RPM.
Essentially the Schmitt trigger output goes high when the input reaches the pull up threshold and stays high until it reaches the pull down threshold, ignoring any noise that occurs between these states.
A modern Schmitt trigger IC costs about $1.
I put the magic smoke back in all the time. Kids these days don't know how to DIY.
That last part had me in stitches 😂😂😂
Love your dry delivery Matt 😂
Thanks for having all the crank angle sensor issues. I've been fighting my CAS issues for over a year, this gives me the ... audacity ... to think I can fix my MS3 now.
I’d no idea the manufacturer puts the magic smoke in 🤷🏼♂️
- you are so learned matt
Sir you NEED an Oscilloscope, watch the raw input, and tap the filtered output of the vr conditioning circuit to the main processor, and you'll be able to see what the ecu see's as logic high and low. Hantek 1008C, it's super helpful.
I have an oscilloscope. What I need is the patience to learn how to use an oscilloscope.
bravo on getting everything running... and the "conditioner" on the shoes isnt a horrible idea either.
Grinding down the teeth reminds me of a friend who used a wooden chain tensioner for his timing chain when he pulled the head on his Datsun. He couldn't get the chain tensioner out so he had the brilliant idea of hacking away at it with a wood chisel and vacuuming out all the chips.
Then he wondered why he had no compression in one of the cylinders, when he put it all back together. He pulled the valve cover off to find a chunk of wood wedged between the valve and rocker arm.
And a whole lot of chunks of wood in the oil pan.
4:23 That's an appropriate amount of smile.
Would adding a coil in series with the sensor fix the problem? That would lower the voltage at high frequencies but not at low frequencies. You could also add a capacitor in parallel or build a more complicated filter out of these components
now we need a proper sound clip of the landspeed
Matt, love the outro 🤣
Back in the days... we struggled with the MSD8509's to make the VR pickups to work! Your resistor tricks (inline or parallel) sound like a great idea!
If that s1000 engine ever fails, I expect a homemade bike based V8 or k1600.
The oil on shoes at the end was so satisfying. Resolved a feeling of need
I like that you rotated the signal which resulted in the signal not changing, lol.
Now you need to buy a Honda MC22 and really pump those numbers up!
ow no, a medium length video
Have you seen the old tractor that could run at 0 rpm? That thing's pretty nuts!
Don't remove the oil, add oil and rub it all in. The top of the shoe is now water repellent. Genius!
The fix on the Grom/CBR250 engine was fantastic. Amazing diagnostic work.
Die grinder always seem to be the best tool for the situation!
“… a medium length video.” And, I’m dying. 😆
Ah yes, good old crank sensor issues. These were a problem every year back in my Formula SAE days, especially the VR type. Looks like you need a good oscilloscope so you can probe what the ECU is seeing, would be a good time saver.
He has osciloscope. It was in one of previous videos
10:02 Wait a sec! That is a rolling seat and step stool combo! Is that off the shelf or DIY? No matter, I must now make my own!
"Waylon Jennings from Beyond" Narration was Spot-On
When I worked as a marine mechanic I had a colleague who spilled a drop of oil on a brand new teak covered swim platform. He just poured out the rest of the bottle, spread it around with a spatula and wiped up the excess with a rag. Problem solved, never heard from the client about it. Trying to clean it up would have been a disaster.
Damn you with your genius thumbnails!! Great video, love the content. Makes me want to get out in the garage. Thank you for all the hard work that goes into these!!
I kinda love it when someone does exactly what I would have suggested, right before the video is over.😄
I used engine oil to oil my Doc Martins back in the 90s... I found them the last time I was at my dad's house. They still look great.
Congrats on 60k!
I've been missing your videos. Glad you've got something broken to work on again.
Also, those shoes aren't ruined.
They're just custom leopard print now.
"Once I put the resistor in and it fixed the problem, I quit caring" this is how I wrench.
4:05 Is that nut on the left supposed to be spinning like that ?
That's the odometer, each thumb-width of rise on the nut equals a nice round 50 miles (in 3rd and 5/8ths gear).
Additionally at 13:12 that spin-y thing on the shock thing. It looked to be rotating with the vibration
I also noticed the dancing nut. I hope it wasn't something of catastrophic consequence.
Love the barfing oil sequence
@SuperfastMatt BMW is using several variants of hall sensor. Older variants are using naroww head. For example HELLA 6PU 009 163-331. This could be solution.
All hail the algorithm
i like how when you got all the beans the coil over lock rings started spinning
Man, everything I see your video pop-up on my feed I'm happy.
You've greatly improved the ratio of potential rippems to realized rippems
Oh yes, It's all coming together now!
Wiping the rest of the shoes was also my instant thought as I saw the oil spilling over them.
Hey, that's an improvement.
Now they are even water repelling 👍
LOL! multigrade shoes!!.
Great info Matt. Well worked out. Thanks 😎
I have a truck from 1999 that redline starts at 4750 and goes to 6k. It makes most of it's power between 3000-4500 RPMs
What an excellent journey, thanks for taking us along. It makes me feel better about the serpentine knowledge paths I take to fixing my jalopy fleet.
I had the same issue on my mega squirt..... it's megasquirt one with a v2.2 daughter card essentially the same thing in your microsquirt. My trigger setup is Ford Edis 6 as an RPM signal then a Bosch 124 ignition module MSD 6al to a locked distributor... and it hauled ass for years revved to the Moon. one day I had ignition problems and the car was never the same. I could get it to run but it just didn't feel right. I finally figured it out it was a 124 ignition module after an MSD box failed.
2:30 :D the 180 rotation still puts the high first :D
that ending... i love you
The theoretical maximum rpm for an internal combustion engine made from the best materials known to man is not much more than 20,000rpm anything beyond that connecting rods stretch, pistons break, crankshafts snap. We just don't have materials that can handle the extreme g forces that the rotating assembly has to endure at those rpm's.
Measured in single digits or less. Gold.
Back in the early 80s I witnessed two guys rev out their production bikes. Both air-cooled and carbureted. Honda and Kawasaki. Both revved to plus 13000 (WOT) while parked. After a few minutes Honda expired (with a bang) - dropped valve? Kawasaki just kept going - red hot factory headers (so probably dual pipe). And just idled when he let go the throttle. Both 900 0r 1000 cc - can't remember exact models. May have been when Kawasaki was hand porting "big" bike cylinder heads. Carbs can give same or better peak power, just not as drivable as injection. But why so much difficulty revving a modern engine?
Love that dukes of hazard fade away