How to Seal and Paint MDF Edges - Video #2
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- In today's video I will be showing you how to achieve a professional finish on MDF edges.
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In last week's video goo.gl/0SOIaw I showed you how I typically paint the mdf cupboards, drawers etc that I've made.
The edges of MDF can be a little tricky to paint because the end grain will keep coming through the paint and will be visible even after sanding and painting a few coats of primer and gloss.
So in today's video I will be sealing the end grain with a 2 part wood filler BEFORE priming.
It creates a much more professional finish. The end grain is nowhere to be seen, and the edges of the MDF basically resemble the smooth flat surfaces themselves, with only the brush strokes from the paint visible on the edge.
Special thanks go to www.diydoctor.org.uk for their great article on painting MDF that gave me the idea of doing this goo.gl/fgW97s
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- 2 part wood filler geni.us/hJq6Q9r (Amazon)
- decorator's knife geni.us/DwBiKH (Amazon)
- continental filler knife geni.us/2Amwzqy (Amazon)
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![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](/img/tr.png)
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A little bit of drywall mud works really well. It’s very inexpensive and is made to be painted. I apply it by hand with some pressure to work it into the end cuts. It dries quickly and is easy to sand! Perfect results every time.
I worked for a professional joinery firm that made a lot of jobs out of MDF. To get smooth edges we clamped the pieces to a workbench, with the edge overhanging the bench, and used a random orbit sander, working through the grits i.e. 120, 180, 240, 320 and 400. By hand, also round the edges over slightly as the finish is very vulnerable to damage on a square edge. Prime, sand again (gently with 400grit) and topcoat. It's a little awkward to keep the sander flat to the edges so practice first. Gave a beautiful, professional finish.
Probably the best finish possible for the DIYer in a reasonable amount of time.
Well filmed with angles and light in mind and well edited.
Great value too, MDF being one of the cheapest pieces of wood available for out of sight stuff in short lengths that don't need a lot of weight or don't have a chance to bow.
Thanks for the upload.
Thanks Ryan!
Also note. MDF “ moves “ over time due to moisture changes. Nothing new there except if you only finish (paint or such) one side of a sheet then that side will absorb moisture differently to the other side and you risk it warping over time. So consider giving the same finish to normally hidden faces of mdf.
Thanks for the edging tips.
Thanks for all the videos, I have been renovating my whole house for the last 7 months and picked up some great tips.
+Richard Ground You're welcome Richard, and likewise, thanks for the comment. Sometimes wonder why I'm doing this so the comments are a great source of inspiration!!
I was just about to apply a thin layer of primer to my new closet shelves, then work in the wood filler and THEN tackle the first phase of sanding. So so glad I chose to watch your video first. You saved me the trouble of a would-be failed experiment. My logic was that the white primer would help me to see the rough patches that needed the most wood filler and sanding... but then I began to question the porous nature of the wood and turned to UA-cam (as I often do) to see if anyone had any valuable advice. I thank you for taking the time to ask the manufacturer !
I’ve been painting cars for the last 40+ years but I also respray kitchens and I have found that when painting MDF sides the best primer to use is actually a 2K primer filler that I would use on a car-body repair. I simply smooth the edge using 180 grit paper and apply 1 dryish coat to seal the edge and then 2 or 3 heavy coats leaving 10 mins between coats. I leave it over night and the next day sand back with 220 wet and dry paper and the finish is perfect. I use a spray-gun but it can be applied using a roller or paint brush. No filler required because the primer fills in all the holes and makes any wispy bits rock hard and can be sanded smooth ready for any top coat. I use an acid-cat paint but you can use virtually anything but I would keep away from using any water based paint with MDF.
Dan Druft Thanks Dan for the detailed comment - I'll have to give that a go some time! What you say about oil rather than water based on MDF makes sense but I was pretty disappointed and surprised that the oil based primer wasn't noticeably better than the water based when I compared them here ua-cam.com/video/kic9W4hqfbs/v-deo.html
I don't like anything which is oil or water based. Iv seen what water can do to MDF as it makes it swell up. I often get asked if I can do colours from Farrow & Ball but I won't go near the stuff because it's like oil in water or something ? I use Morrell's acid-cat primers and paints because they dry so quickly and leave a smooth easy clean finish. And use the RAL colour system.
I work in a joinery factory and we use MDF sealer to seal the edges it’s sandable aswell and comes to a perfect finish
Thanks for that buddy. Appreciate the info 👍
I do this on every customers bespoke fitted mdf furniture I do as standard, ready for them to paint. The finished product is what matters when you don’t advertise and all work is word of mouth.
When not practical to use a roller, brush strokes (roping effect) can be mostly eliminated by adding Sunnyside M-1 Latex Paint Additive & Extender. This stuff is magical and will make your job look like it was sprayed on.
To seal the edges for painting , I use a mixture of water and white glue. To paint, I never use a brush, always a little four inch roller, comes out smoother than a brush, more consistent and to me it's faster.
Nice job looks good, personally I use drywall compound to finish MDF edges, goes on easy, sands super easy, easy clean up, super cheap, finishes like a plaster wall and is ever bit as strong as the MDF is.
Michael Katt Thanks for sharing that Michael - I'll have to try that sometime!
How does that hold up long term with the opening and closing?
Must top up mike's comment about using drywall compound. It's pretty useful stuff and like mike says works well on wood. Cheap as chips and dead easy to mix. I'd Rather use a fine fill like knauf ready mixed jointing compound, Gyproc fine fill or personally I use Arrow-lite joint cement. I've never bought Woodfiller as it's just as good using jointing compound. Easier to remove if you ever need to take out the fixings too.
You beat me to it
I use Zinsser Coverstain on all MDF. You can use Zinsser Gardz on just the edges but I have had superb results with Coverstain. I am a pro decorator so use a dustless sanding system but for DIY purposes I would use black sanding pads.
Simon Bellamy Thanks for this Simon. That's really interesting. D'you find the Coverstain better than the B.I.N then?
Gardz is a quick way if you in a rush. But I find a lot of joiners using the green MDF and Coverstain really bring the grain out on the edges and the faces. I then sand with my Mirka then undercoat and 2 top coats. Sometimes I spray finish but I do like to hand paint.
Very nice but I use auto body glaze and it comes out very smooth every time the first time. Plus I spray all my cabinets and doors for that really smooth finish without brush or roller lines.
Looks really good Charlie,just about to make some mdf doors for a kitchen unit I built.
Many thanks ,Brian.
You're very welcome Brian. Massive thanks for the comment.
Very good channel! The fact that you do this on such a nice carpet without any protection is unsettling :)
Ha! Don't worry, there were plenty of dust sheets down to protect it! Thanks for the feedback!
Marcin Gminski ii
Haha I love that you have an obsession with MDF edges, I will be trying to get a high gloss glass like finish on my MDF panels in the future and your videos have been helpful. Keep it up!
Hey Charlie - I've watched quite a few of your videos Charlie - keep up the good content - the right level of detail plus you make it interesting.Thanks mate! I love seeing the different ways of doing things in cabinet building - I've been building a large cabinet with a TV lift built in, and bookshelves - I did the carcases myself from big DIY store cut MDF primed with Zinsser and then painted. I got the shaker style doors done by my local CNC cabinetry - they routed the 18mm paint grade MDF and it saved me a lot of time. Then I got them to cut the shelves out - reason being is they give the option to specify which edges get melamine applied - their MDF also is melamine coated which saved me the cost and time of priming with Zinsser and then a couple of coats of the dulux semi gloss finish. Cost little more than the cost of the melamine MDF (which is about 2x the standard MDF for me to buy). Interested if you've tried edging using the iron on melamine strips - could get a better (more consistent) smooth finish with less time (skips paitning and priming and filling) - haven't tried it myself but interested in doing so.
I’ve actually used joint compound or sparkle to do this before as well and it works perfectly.
Thanks. I'm never sure about using a Gypsum type product on MDF, but if it works for you, then great 👍
Useful tips I will use when I next paint mdf. Thanks.
You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Try applying PVA woodglue slightly thinned with water. Brush it on, and when dry, sand it down. Much cheaper option than woodfiller, though takes longer to dry.
Thanks mate. I did that in this video ua-cam.com/video/kic9W4hqfbs/v-deo.html and didn't think the result was any better than the others.
The real answer is one coat solvent based primer, sand 120 grit, apply second coat of solvent primer, sand with 220. Will feel like lacquer. Then paint away with a mohair roller.
Exactly how i would do it .. multiple coats with sanding inbetween ..comes up perfect every time. You get out what you put in 👍
What does a solvent based primer mean?
@@russellmotter5022 Google is your friend
Went with the BIZ shellac based white primer, stuff is epic for painting MDF. Not sure how I didn't discover it back in high school when I made everyone sub woofer boxes.For the edges, still haven't fully decided. I figure I'll just glue/iron something on since its MDF + 2x2 frame edge.
First time viewer Charlie, looks likes a easy way of priming and painting MDF- I am currently working on some dressup racks for my girls, I want to keep the cost in preparation as low as possible, so your ideas should work well, I like the idea of water based products as well, going to help with my usual messy cleanups
Hi Craig, thanks for the comment. You might also take a look at video#3 if you haven't already. It further underlines why oil based primers and top coats aren't worth the hassle ua-cam.com/video/kic9W4hqfbs/v-deo.html
Glad to find this video! I have few shelfs in the closet that werefrom the past owner, they Dutch taped the edges, look ugly! I am going to try this!
Spray all bare edges with a high build aerosol primer (preferably 2k), quick de nib when dry and the finish is as smooth as glass .
peter fido Are you talking about car body aerosol primers?
Charlie DIYte yeah that's right , I use ordinary 2k high build aerosol primer and ive never had a problem . You can buy the aerosol cans that don't need activating so you can use them as and when you like .
I use Tou-Pret ready mix - perfect finish to the MDF edge without needing to keep mixing. Slower to harden admittedly but so much easier to apply.
Thanks for the tip Marcus. I haven't used that - presumably you're talking about their Ready Mix Wood Filler? 👍
@@CharlieDIYte Yes, down side is the curing time, but if that is not an issue very easy to work with and great results!!!!
Just build up the paint thickness and rub down lightly with very fine wet and dry foam block (wet). You will find the paint turns to a slurry and dries perfectly flat as if you sprayed it. However, surface is left a little matt but can be polished back to a shine with Brasso and a cloth.
I use Sherwin Williams Wall and Wood primer and spray it on the edge two coats. Sand 180 grit then prime the whole piece it saves a ton of time and has perfect finish.
This is what I used to to and you get a good finish but it can be a little time consuming. The z friend who is a professional sprayer told me about paintable mdf edging tape. It comes it various widths , you iron it on and is then just like the mdf face, paints great. You can get it online,mi know amazon sells it, it's really cheap too.
That's a great tip! I'll check that tape out and post a video with my thoughts. Thanks for taking the time to Comment.
TheJunkyardgenius thanks for the tip, lots of hours lost on battling the evil edge of Mdf 😫but now lots of potential hours saved😀😀😀😀
I've got to say, it is good! And another tip from TheJunkyardgenius - use a chisel rather than a stanley knife to trim the tape once you've ironed it on.
Anthony Tobba www.amazon.co.uk/Paintable-Edging-10metres-Postage-Dispatch/dp/B01BAOACCK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1516389904&sr=8-3&keywords=mdf+edging+tape
Anthony Tobba this is a 10mtr roll, they also make a 50mtr roll works out cheaper per mtr the bigger roll you buy. its also available in wider sizes, all available on amazon
Just use Dulux Prep Coat, now called One Step Prep and it puts a thick hard sanding surface that can be sanded dead smooth
Thanks. Will check it out. 👍
Great video, thanks for posting! P.S brave man mixing the wood filler so close to the carpet!
Anderson Begeman Thanks for the comment - you're too kind! Yes you're not the first one to mention the wood filler carpet issue. Best not tell the wife 🤔
Fantastic explanation and demonstration, many thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment. Here's a more recent vid you might find useful ua-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/v-deo.html
I use a mix of 50-50% water PVA glue on the edges. Apply one coat, wait 10 min, then apply a second. Sand with 220 and you'll get a perfect smooth result.
What is Pva glue?
@@russellmotter5022 Regular white wood glue.
red or green glazing putty works really good. it is for auto body work but works on wood also👍
Great advice. Good work, Charlie!
+David Cooney Thanks David! Much appreciated!
Charlie, smash tip for you, use a black foam roller, the finish is amazing. You can get them from Johnsons or anywhere these days 👍
Cheers mate. I'll definitely check them out!
I make fitted furniture for a living and this Is a good tip but if you was to use mr mdf and sand at 120 grit you can get it as smooth a glass then when painted you do not see any end grain I don't get the fuss about how people struggle to finish end grain mdf you just need to sand more good but keep up the good work .
+Brady Hall That's a really good point, Brady. I need to start using moisture resistant MDF. The local builders merchants round here don't stock it so I'm going to have to be a bit more organised ordering it!
We get our stock from Arnold laver's they deliver for free if you spend over a certain amount.
Thanks for all your tips. Moisture resistent MDF is also better when routering. Poeple at Selco are not allowed to pre cut though due it being more hazardous
High build primer is good for this, automotive body shop supplies have a lot to offer when building furniture IMO.
Usual helpful video easy to follow, comprehensive & succinct - cheers!
That filler looks delicious!
It's good stuff 👍
I personally think using spackle is better then wood filler for edge grain of MDF or plywood eges. Super easy to put on with a putty knife. Easier than wood putty to sand and you wouldn't have had to to fill a second time! Paint with enamel and it's a nice hard surface that looks like it was out of a mold.
Thick emulsion then sand works for me and then final coat
I cut wood glue with water 50-50 then brush or roll onto the edge...it seals up the pores in the "end grain".....let dry, sand smooth.
Love your videos Charlie!
1.2k filler
2. sand down
3. 2k primer 2 coat
4. sand down
5. 2k automotive paint 2 coats
= perfection smooth like my ass when I was a baby
A fine finish for smaller projects.
good method. easy and quick. thank you
William Wang Thanks William! I'm posting a new video tomorrow comparing all the options for treating MDF edges - but this is still comes out top.
Another great video thanks.
I notice that you don't seem to use paint pads at all.
Rollers always seem to give me a stipple effect and I like the way pads get the job done. Although I have had problems with pads shedding bristles, which is a huge pain.
Have you covered the various painting techniques at all in any of your videos? If not then maybe it could prove to be an interesting episode.
👍
Thanks for this Dave. No, I can honestly say I've never used paint pads. I agree, that would make for a great video. I'll put that on the list. Thanks again👍
I have been using BOSS Brush Filler with amazing results. Fairly cheap.
There is a clear edge banding that is porous, it takes paint very well.
I’m hoping to get this finish when I try doing some bespoke shelves in the kitchen.
Look out for a video this week. I'm hoping to post a quick update on painting MDF end grain. The key is to give it a really good sand, preferably with a random orbit sander or similar to really sand the end grain and then you get a much smoother finish. And use moisture resistant MDF if you can.
@@CharlieDIYte Does filling the edges smooth hold out long term even with wood expansion? Gonna make an MDF bay window board, and that will require joining end to end. Hoping to make those joins seamless by doing something similar but wonder if it'll just end up cracking over time due to wood doing wood things.
For using mdf in places like a bathroom where water can spill, can you recommend a way to seal it so that it does not wick up water and swell up? Great video by the way, it was very helpful.
Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated! If using mdf in a bathroom/ moisture prevalent area, I'd be tempted to buy moisture resistant mdf like this goo.gl/sVRGGV . Then for optimum protection, you could use an oil based primer like this goo.gl/j6UdBX and then an oil based top coat. If you've already bought water based paint, don't worry - it should be fine.
Personally, I never use mdf for skirting boards, because this is the area that's going to be most subjected to moisture when you mop the floor. I'd always use timber for skirting boards.
If you want to finish either MDF or any wood grain use Shellac Sanding Sealer
John Faulds Thanks John. This is obviously known as a sealing agent prior to applying polish, wax and stains, and as a knotting agent. In your experience is it also appropriate as a sealing coat for paint - water/solvent based or otherwise?
@@CharlieDIYte yes
Its how you get a professional finish. this is what furniture factories use
Nice vid mate and very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
thanks for sharing, this was great.
but if you were to take this up another level to minimize the brush marks, what would you do? could you thin out the primer and the paint...if so how?
+nmssis No, I'd just use a mini roller - with a gloss sleeve (foam or perhaps 4mm mohair). That way there would be no brush marks.
I use car body filler and B.I.N. zinnser primer
Yeah body filler is smoother with less pin holing as seen in the video after first fill.
Thank you!
You're welcome 👍🏻
Hi Charlie, I'm finding your stuff very useful, so thanks for that.
As a professional Handyman, I specialise in bespoke wardrobes, but have some problems with my MDF doors warping. I make them like you do with a 12mm backing board, and 12mm stiles & rails, glued and pinned to it, to form a panel door.
Do you have any thoughts on why some doors of this construction type warp, and some don't. Maybe you could put your investigative mind to a video on this subject? I would certainly appreciate it...
Pete Bridge...
+Peter Bridge Hi Pete. Yes, I've had some doors warp as well. In fact the doors I did on my daughter's cupboard ua-cam.com/video/U4zLZocjBs0/v-deo.html warped so badly I had to start again! But I traced that one down to the fact that I had laid each door between 2 work benches. Unbeknown to me they were obviously bowing in the middle and by glueing the 12mm stiles to the bowed sheet I was effectively locking the bow in! So I remade them being careful to ensure they were on a flat surface. Funnily enough I checked them the other day and they haven't bowed in the least - which I put down to the fact that they're supported by 4 concealed hinges down their length.
Pro carpenters will no doubt say that if you make the doors the professional way with routed stiles and rails the full thickness of the door, and a central panel all glued together they're less likely to warp, but I'd say the main thing is to get enough hinges positioned equally down the door to keep them from moving in the middle.
It's generally the weight of the door vs the thickness of the MDF vs the amount of hinges you have. MDF is not a good material for structural purposes, even when holding its own weight. Use 18mm MDF @ the full dimensions of the door with 3-6mm "rails" and "styles" glued to the face for a stronger door that won't warp if properly supported.
thank you for sharing with us.
Liberate Cogitare You're very welcome - thanks for the comment!
imagine doing all this work to 5 closets each 6-8 doors which are 8ft high and 2ft wide. This is just crazy amount of work. Plus the final product still has brush strokes in it. There has to be a better way.
+MySchizo Buddy I'm doing a full analysis of all the options in a video this weekend - there is an easier way! Keep an eye out for it. The brush strokes are only because I didn't want to use a roller on such a shall piece of wood - admittedly I should have done.
MySchizo Buddy I've done this method , However; I sprayed the paint on then wet sanded between coats. And yes, I agree it's a lot of work. Does look nice in the end. Cheers
MySchizoBuddy, thought you might find this interesting ua-cam.com/video/kic9W4hqfbs/v-deo.html
Yes it is a lot of work. That's why it costs to get a professional in to make fitted cupboards etc.
Know this is an old video and also know you are a big zinsser fan. Have you tried zinsser gardz on MDF or worktop edge sealer by fascinating finishes ? Had good results with them. Maybe time to revisit this topic ?
Hi Andrew, thanks for this. I think you're right, things have moved on since I did this video and yes a definitive video putting this to bed would be a great idea. I'll add it to the list and might revisit it when the monster wardrobe challenge takes place in the next few months. 👍
well I liked the video and found it very useful ,,thank you Charlie
Have you tried to just put one or two clear coats of water based lacquer , sanding in between and then applying the desired water based color?
I haven't Marco, but I suspect it's similar to PVA. Does that work well? Personally the answer as far as I'm concerned is Zinsser BIN. ua-cam.com/video/wk6tpkC8fOI/v-deo.html Buy the spray can and you haven't even got to clean a brush.
@@CharlieDIYte Hi, a friend of mine is carpenter and he suggested it to me. So I've sealed the edges mainly by brushing a clear coat two times. After that it took only one coat of white paint and it looked very good. I put another coat of white paint on and you couldn't even see the texture of the MDF edges.
@@marcohaefner1644 Thanks for that Marco - that's really interesting. I'll give it a try on my next project!! Great work and thanks for the comments.
Brilliant videos - have been following, enjoying and purchasing the right tools as you suggest. Please can you do one for sharpening chisels and plane blade? Or would you suggest using the same tool as for knives?
Thanks Peter. YES I've been meaning to do one for ages! No don't use the knife sharpener. You need a decent size diamond stone www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rider-double-sided-diamond-bench-stone-951777 - don't worry about lapping fluid - wash the stone with water but make sure you dry it thoroughy before you put it away each time to prevent it rusting, and a honing guide is essential. You can spend £60 on these but this one looks fine www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rider-honing-guide-340147. And a bevel guage is a lovely little gadget to check the angle you need to set your honing guide to (though I'm not sure the cheap honing guide above gives you this option) www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-bevel-gauge-477398
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks so much! Have clicked to collect this afternoon at Axminster so can check out the bevel gauge viability at the same time - will let you know. Meanwhile my Kramer kit is arriving today, ready for shower tray silicone job. Thanks again - inspirational!
@@robbiepilot Excellent stuff!! This is the daddy of all honing guides. If you can stretch to it, it will set you up for life www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-mk-ii-standard-narrow-blade-honing-guide-set-101257
@Peter Roper One other thing I missed in the silicone video. If you've got a corner to do, you can end up with a bit of a mess unless you do the vertical joint first and let it go hard. Then do the horizontal joint, working out from each corner. If you don't let the vertical go off, it tends to be messed up when you do the horizontals. Good luck!!
@@CharlieDIYte Ah - yes, thanks that's very useful to know - made a real mess last time!
WOW, NICE JOB.Thanks
Just sand and then pva the end grain before painting.
Thanks Kevin. Will give that a go and see how it compares!
Whats the best way to apply the pva for a even finish?
@@sasa1982uk mix with water to get a sloppy consistency roll on the sand down ive made thousands of cupboards and wardrobes ect it makes for a better finish and is fool proof and less time consuming
@@Daniel.McGinnis97 have you tried jointing compound mixed with watered down pva?
Nice video, thanks dude
Good tips but time consuming - what worked for us was to sand a bit more thoroughly, preferably with an orbital sander, 120 grit then 180grit should be enough, Leyland acrylic primer, denib between coats and you get a good finish
Dear Charlie
Here's a rookie question for you
Is PVA sealant and bonder the same stuff as PVA wood glue (only diluted) ?
I actually can't find an answer to this simple question anywhere
Thanx
Hi there. They're both based on the same polyvinyl acetate resin but wood glues are much stronger, set harder and can be sanded. I don't know what the additional element is though to make this the case.
Great - thanx for sorting that out for me
The MDF doesn't hold the screws very well.Will MDF hold a chipboard door or MDF door?
all ways prime first before applying any filler, I would recommend 1 coat of primer then sand then 2 more coats of primer/undercoat, this should give a very good finish, which if not good enough just apply a few extra costs until your happy.
what makes me say this ?? over 30 years experience in the painting trade
the crazy monk Thanks for this. I spoke to the filler manufacturer and they said you get better adhesion if you fill before priming.
Great video. Thank you
Darren Freeman Cheers Darren - really appreciate the feedback!
What sort of paint is that grey on on you're bathroom cupboard you made great video
Hi great information thanks x
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment Jessica.
Rather than using woodfiller, could you use gyproc jointing compund and sand with 240 grit then paint or prime then use jointing compound sand and paint again?
Are you referring to Gyproc Easi-Fill? I guess but I prefer to use a wood filler as the jointing compound is a plaster based compound. Also, you mix it with water, and you don't really want to be introducing water into the end grain.
@@CharlieDIYte yes Easi-fill. Maybe prime it first. I will try it on a test piece first and see if there is any damp damage
I like your video but have to ask, why not use white wood filler? Especially if you are going to use white paints on you doors etc....
Yes, valid point Robert. The simple (honest) answer is that I didn't have any white wood filler when I made the video, but you're absolutely right, and whenever I buy a new tin - as I did a couple of days ago - my preference is always white.
Just paint on 50 50 pva water mix when dry 240 grit sandpaper job done
just put your ass in a blender Joyce . thank you
@@actimasprime6226 lolz
Sand 120, 240 then paint with a thick primer. Sand 240, 400. Prime and paint using a foam roller and it will look spray coated
Something else you can try to deburr the edges before primer. I use a powered sander with P120 wet and dry (dust extractor attachment recommended). Just run the sander without too much force back and forth along the edge 2-3 times, don't be too aggressive just a light touch, try to keep the base perpendicular to the edge, you looking to just take the rough edge off. Next use some P600 wet & dry (B&Q stock this) using a bit of scrap 18mm MDF 4cm x 3cm as a block run the P600 back and forth (keep the block between each hand) slowly, again you don't need to be too aggressive and it will keep the dust to a minimum. Within a minute or two you will get a near polished edge, it's possible to get the same finish as the board surface with more time, but personally, I find this unnecessary. You will find this far quicker than the edge filler method. Have a vacuum nozzle running close to the edge to collect dust when hand sanding.
Eddie Moore Thanks for the tip Eddie. Don't you find that the grain just rises up again though when you prime it - given that the edges, though beautifully smooth after what you describe, still don't have the benefit of the paper coating that the flat surfaces are treated with?
No the burring will not be evident, if you spend the time, I have been able to get the edge to the same as the surface before now but it takes more time of course, I've just completed a set of 6 kitchen cabinets, I spent no more than 3-4 mins per door edge. MDF is not paper coated so far as I'm aware, the flat surface is down to the pressure process used I believe. I've yet to get proficient at spray panting (no shortcut to practice I fear), if you end up with an uneven paint surface due to the roller you can use P2000 wet & dry with neat washing up liquid and polish the paint to a matt finish like mica, it's time consuming so I'd rater learn to spray paint
Quick question: would you recommend using that same technique to smooth the end grain of plywood? I was recently made aware of a technique involving edge banding but I'm now wondering if wood filler wouldn't be an easier method...
Jean-Loup Rebours-Smith That's an interesting question. I think the answer is no, though, because with the MDF the filler is just smoothing over the end grain, sinking into it in the process whereas with ply the grain is much tighter and so the filter would just sit on top rather than sink in. So to get the required effect you'd have to have a consistent later of filler that completely covered the ply. I think the iron on edge strip would also be easier than using the filler. Take a look at my video here where I compared the various ways of sealing end grain and used the edging strips ua-cam.com/video/kic9W4hqfbs/v-deo.html
Or save time on filling/ sanding and use an iron on veneer edging. :)
carlb401 Yep, you get a good result with the iron on veneer - as I discovered here ua-cam.com/video/kic9W4hqfbs/v-deo.html
Charlie DIYte hot iron will burn the filler bad idea stick to gardening
Prawnchowmein What are you on about??? The veneer is applied as an alternative to filling.
would it look smother is you spray painted it instead of using a brush?
Yes, definitely.
Will this work for wood that will be outside?
I wouldn't use MDF, even moisture resistant MDF outside. The only one you should use outside is extreme tricoya MDF. I've never used it myself but I suspect you can simply prime, sand back re-prime and then top coat the edges.
Charlie DIYte I have marine ply going on my shed roof and want to seal the wood without using Epoxy. Any advice would be welcome 🙏
Great idea thanks!
Top class vids as per. How does one seal plywood edges so they become waterproof? Thanks
Thanks! What are you using the plywood for and are you painting it?
Charlie DIYte I am following manufacturers instructions and cementing an abs stone resin shower tray to it. The tray is supposed to be cemented onto the ply which is waterproof ext grade however the edges are bare. I have read epoxy resin is the best or pva. The reason why I need/want to seal the edges are so no water runs down the edges of the tray...soaks into the ply and it warps and creates an unstable base for the tray which in time under human weight...may eventually crack resulting in one giant cluster f€%k lol
youdontknowmebutI'mfamous I see! Well this stuff is probably what you're after goo.gl/zyWwj1 although it's not cheap. Or if the ply isn't going to be on show you could use something like Zinsser B.I.N - a white coloured shellac primer that I use a lot. But the epoxy will be clear and will probably do the best job in penetrating into the wood. Maybe give the company I've linked above a call and see what they suggest? I had a marine ply base to my shower tray, but didn't bother to prime it as I took the view that if water got down that far I had failed in my job of sealing and tiling - but I like your belt and braces approach. No one wants a cluster f#£& a few years down the line 😄
Charlie DIYte haha yeah exactly. Because its an ensuit shower, two sides of the four of the ply may be exposed to water from getting in and out so epoxy does sound like a good idea. Ive seen small amounts on ebay for a few quid which i might try. Thanks for the advice 👌👍 kutgw 👍
What about just taking a couple of mm off with a router fitted with a straight cutter?
Will the same procedure work for particle board?
Highly useful. I'm interested to know what difference the two part filler has versus ready mixed wood filler, or general purpose filler for that matter? Have you experimented with alternatives?
Did you ever figure this out or get an answer? Am wondering whether to use polyfilla multi purpose to cover nails and MDF panel joins Vs using wood filler. Thx
Poly filler has shrinking and cracking issues with wood. You can use polyfil for smaller holes though. But any bigger you’ll experience cracking and shrinking. If it’s to cover screw heads? Fine. Just make sure you counter sink the hole first
@@Brandon-co8fs Responded buddy. You can use polyfil if it’s smaller such as hiding crew heads.
Charlie, have ever figured out how professional companies manage to bring complex-shaped MDF edge to a perfect smooth finish before spray painting it?
Hi charlie. What is that white substance you mixed with the filler?
That's the hardener for the filler. You mix roughly a pea size of hardener for every golf ball size of filler. Here's an example amzn.to/3bGmCyp but there are lots of brands that do it. Just Google "2 part wood filler". It's the only filler you should use because depending on how much hardener you use it sets in about 5 minutes.
its called fine sand paper . when you sand the mdf with fine sand paper youll get the same result as all this shenanagans . also the holes youre seeing are not end grain . theres no grain in mdf . it is where wood fibre has been torn out or damaged in storage etc . sanding and painting will remedy this better that this method of laboriosity . id use pva but only on particle board and not mdf . thanks for the video . cheers
Thanks Hamish. I agree there are easier ways - as I investigated here goo.gl/JRAxKH but bottom line, this way, and using the iron on veneer produces the most superior finish - though I agree it's probably not worth if you've got a lot to do!
Charlie what's best sealer to seal ply for vans that are gonna use the ply to be carpeted? Some say use diluted PVA some say don't? Pls reply ASAP
If people who have done this suggest PVA then I'd be inclined to do that. Do you mean that you're sealing it so that you can then cover it in carpet? I have no experience of sealing ply for carpeting though. That said, if it was me, I'd probably use a water based varnish rather than PVA.
Can you apply banding tape to MDF edges?
good of you to do a video but i cant see this being financial viable as ur buying filler . primer and then finish choice. plus it must take hours and hours if u have a large project. cheap pine an edge band it.
Where can I get a hold of some of that Johnstone's paint here in the US?
Could you please clear my doubt?
I finished prelaminated mdf sheet side edge with ironing tape
But the corner is not smooth
How I fix it brother?
Thanks for the tip. Would this work on Chipboard as well?
+mrskeeferoo Yes, it would. You could also try edging tape. Where is the cupboard being used?
As a hobbyist, I use desktop CNC machine to cut complicated designs (fonts etc) on 6mm MDF. After applying water-based primer, I get a lot more end grains on the MDF which is really difficult to sand from narrow cuts. Anyone please advise how I can avoid end grains from reappearing on the edge surface?