Been using a water and glue mix on MDF for years which is essentially a grain filler/sanding sealer. It's simply a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part water based glue, it gives the same results and is even cheaper than buying sealer. Just one light coat is enough, there's no swelling issues.
As a former cabinet maker and chief of spray-paint and surfaces at my old job. I recommend (for normal 22 mm MDF) sanding the edges (not surface) with 120, 150, 180 (in that order) before spraying primer. This is to get rid of saw and burn marks. First ad one layer of primer to edges and back/underside, let it dry for a couple of hours, sand 70-80 % of primer off on the edge with fresh and sharp 220 paper (or sanding sponge is preferred). Make it smooth to the touch, leave the surface for now. Ad a second coat to edges and first coat to the top/front surface, let it dry over night. Sand edges a second time until the edges feel smooth as silk (literary as smooth as silk) it does not take long. Use fresh sandpaper not old shit. Use a sanding-machine for surface do it by hand on the edges. For wider MDF such as 30 -40 MM a third or even fourth coat of primer is needed due to more pores. (Its in the process of making the MDF). Sand between every coat. On the flat surface of the MDF (no matter thickness) one coats of primer is sufficient before painting. Put on one coat of paint, let it dry for 24 hours, sand with 220 lightly on the surface to flaten it. If you have a sanding machine use it on the surface not the edges. Then go more thorough over the edges one last time with a 220 sanding sponge, look for small dimples and fill them with fast hardening filler or acrylic filler if necessary before last coat of paint. On parts with paint all over (a front side and a back side, ex a door). Paint the back/under side first, let it dry for 12 hours, do the edges and then then front/top side at the same time. For a professional finish and with no grainy or foggy areas, you may want to mask the back/underside for ultra super result (due to over-spray on the underside), but remember to remove masking tape before leaving for the night as it leave marks if not removed. One last tip! Always start withe the least visible or least touched part/side of the workpiece and finish with the front/top and most visible edges for best result when painting last coat ;) I done correctly the edges should look as flat and just as smooth as the surface even though the edges have pores like a sponge. The reason we use primer over anything else is the fact that is fills better, is made for sanding of and dries faster. This sanding sealer is new to me, but seem like a product for the same use I presume. Good luck.
Henrik, I really like your process. When I spray doors, as I get closer to the edges, I get overspray that goes on the backside, which I painted the day before! I think I will try to mask it, but that’s more work and time consuming. Any tips?
@@suzieleroux9402 If you are good at masking it only takes +- five min pr door/piece (depending on size) Remember to use use a thin (not narrow) good quality masking tape and set it 1-1,5 mm in from the backside edge. Then cover the tape with a slight smaller piece of paper etc, and tape it to the masked backside edge with more masking tape all the way around. Before the paint is completely hardened remove the masking/paper from backside, there will be i fine line of paint on the backside corner all the way around, which you can remove gingerly with our finger nail or something similar. Result is much better than a gritty surface with overspray.
Been using this method for a while, it's like magic! One other tip, if you find that your top coat is not compatible with the sanding sealer, shellac works nicely too.
I recently purchased my first home and decided to make my baseboards out of MDF of course in the bathroom and kitchen I use a different material. This information was very helpful... tomorrow is Saturday...the pup and I are getting busy. Thanks Again. God Bless
Had to come back to say this tip is a game changer! This makes such a huge difference when spray painting MDF, especially the end grain or any routered faces.
This method solved a different problem for me. It's been really rainy lately and humidity has been over 90% the past 2 weeks or so. A lot of the mdf I had in storage started growing mold. Had to throw out a couple 4x8 sheets which sucked but was able to save the rest with a thin coat of a cheaper version of this product. Thanks! Glad this randomly popped up on my recommendations.
I have been using the same method for a few years. I remember many people saying don’t use polyurethane. Ah but it works. I also use it the harden the surface of unsanded plywood.
Zinser BIN Shellac based primer works very well too, and it works great on drywall patches too. Dries quite quickly so you can get to the topcoats without much wasted time.
This works so well! I already thanked you but I wanted to come thank you again. I use a lot of plywood and mdf to make signs. I tried using the sanding sealer on plywood before I painted and it saved me so much paint and time! The finish product was so much better by just applying one coat of sanding sealer.
@@ToolReviewZone using sanding sealer took me from using 3 spray cans with multiple multiple splotchy layers. To painting only two layers. I don't want to compare it to "modge podge" because I hate it and it looks horrible, but sanding sealer is the beautiful!
This is great! Thanks. One trick I learned to get edges really smooth is to sand, then rub a little spackaling compound into the edge as a filler, the sand again and prime as you show here. You get a very smooth edge.
This is great timing seeing this video. I had planned to buy plywood for my CNC spoil board permanent base. But my local hardwood dealer had hardwood veneered MDF for only $25 a sheet so...money talks! However, since I'm carving the machine logo into the base surface slats with a V bit I wasn't sure how to seal the MDF before painting the engraved logo. Now I do!
I do the same process of sealing MDF, but I use alcohol based sanding sealer or thinned Shellac. Because that are both alcohol based products, they dray very fast and they seal the MDF very well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have a project coming up that requires the MDF to be painted. I've tried painting MDF before and the results were less than expected. Can't wait to try this method.
Good experiment! I personally would avoid anything water based when sealing MDF. I think BIN primer or Kilz would be the best option for sealing MDF. I am partial to BIN because it it shellac based. Being shellac, it is alcohol and not water based. Water + MDF = :-( Alcohol doesn't blow out MFD like water does and its not noxious like Kilz or other oil based primers. Once the MDF is sealed with BIN you can put whatever the heck you want on top because shellac bonds with everything. You can put water based latex or poly or laquer or whatever and since the MDF is now sealed you wont have to worry about the "fuzzy" MDF showing up.
I have some MDF I'd like to make a router table with. I'm going to have to sand it down because it's reclaimed. If I prime it, can I glue another MDF board to make a table top??
THANK YOU! You saved my custom built arcade cabinet project from looking like crap! I wish I had know this earlier in the project. Still, it looks amazing now and exactly what I was hoping for!
I was taught to use this on solid wood end grain prior to staining. It’s trial and error on a test piece, first, but you’ll avoid the heavy, dark color where it would normally soak in. A great place to see if your cabinet maker knows this trick is to look at the top or bottom of your doors and the end of your drawers. Once you see it, you’ll always look for it.
That's exactly what I use works the best outta all the different stuff I've tried . Used to use a bit of wood glue on the edges of my projects that needed paint that also worked well!
Glad I stumbled onto this vid. I'm designing my kitchen remodel now and will be using MDF for panels in my shaker doors and drawers. My worry of painting MDF has been the scratch-off. It's like painting glass.
I have worked with MDF for years you can even mold the edges with a router , I have always 50% water to 50% yellow glue when the is dry and it does not take long , lightly sand w/ 220 sand paper never had a problem . Use your favorite spray can . do not use any water base paint .
I've used the "Varathane Diamond Wood Finish", which is a water based polyurethane. It looks identical to the "Minwax Sanding Sealer" and I get the same result that your showing here. Any other manufacturer's water based polyurethane should work the same.
I have used Gardz problem surface sealer from Zinsser for years on MDF prior to painting. Its main use is sealing torn exposed areas of drywall paper, etc. I thought what the hell and gave it a try. Has worked more times than I can count..
hi, thanks for the video. can i prime with any primer and what about top paint. will use it for furniture and window sills. so it must be able to withstand potted plants etc. and in glossy white.
Typed “how to paint MDF” in UA-cam expecting to find a bunch of your typical garbage and found this video… All I can say is thank you!!! Worked like a charm.
The dark brown mdf is actually moisture resistant so water based paints don't bother it. I built my kitchen and master bath with that and it's great stuff. You can use anything for the end grain that's a sealer like kilz but I like the extra gloss you got from the sanding sealer. I spray sanding sealer with a harbor freight hvlp and that makes it really smooth, you should try that, cut it just a bit with water
Sir! Thank you so much for your video! I’ve had no luck finding a way to paint my inside cabinets made of the material you painted. No one has done what you’ve demonstrated. I also subscribed to say thanks! Best wishes and keep these great videos coming!
Will other water based sanding sealers work just as well? Minwax ones dosn't seem like they are readily available in australia. Also what is the exactly paint spray that you used in the video? thanks.
Hey, I was just wondering if you ended up finding a different product for your project? I'm in Australia too and I'm looking for an alternative to Minwax; Bunnings have a sanding sealer from Feast Watson but the reviews are terrible.
I once spray-painted two small cabinet speakers I made with one can of gloss black. The boxes were made with no panel edges showing. All cuts made at 45 degree angles. The boxes were set up in a hot sunny room and I coated the surfaces once every hour. Just the gloss. The finish was durable and glass like.
@@ToolReviewZoneoh and one other thing. This may sound crazy, but what about greyboard/paperboard/cardboard if you know? I cant find the answer anywhere.
I had to give props to this tip because it really works! My paint job might not be the best but I am sure my shelves is protected than it was before. Thank you! Edit: I used lacquer sanding sealer and enamel
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a tool to log back into an instagram account? I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Titus Terrence thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Will this work on melamine cabinet doors? Also on mdf edging that had water damage and is now exposed? Trying to repaint my kitchen cabinet doors and trim.
thnx for sharing. i need to paint a cabinet which has chipped paint. Do i need to sand off all the paint, then use this sanding slear? or can i go straight with sanding sealer and top coat of paint? it is a lot of work to sand the whole thing and hard to remove top layers.
@@ToolReviewZone thnx for ur response. it is a lot of work to sand the whole top layer tho...i may just go with slight sand all over to make it rough , then prim/valspar ....i saw a guy with a nice video abt it and worked grt.
I learned about sanding sealer over forty years ago in HS shop class although we just used it on wood before varnish. Another tip for cleaning up the look of MDF - you can fill the edges with some drywall mud, let it dry and sand it for a super smooth finish.
Use MDF for panels in doors and drawer fronts. I don't see the sides but will try the sealer on the faces. If i want to use the MDF for a complete drawer front I will use the sealer... Thanks for the video and the trick...
I make 80s arcades from 3/4 MDF. If you want to do this without a trip to the paint store, mix 5 parts water to 1 part wood glue and paint it on the edges and top with a foam brush. Wait until it's dry, then use 220 grit sandpaper and you get a rock hard finish.....and edges that will be more resistant to dents and damage.
@@josue3434ify I wouldn't say it would float forever, but it's as water proof as the paint that's on it. I've had several ahem, adult cocktails spilled on my control panel with no visible issues. The liquid drips through the joystick holes and puddles in the CP box. LOL.
Very interesting...and paint adheres nicely to that? 5:1 ratio in fl oz i'm assuming, but something like this? www.lowes.com/pd/Titebond-White-Interior-Wood-Adhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-128-Fluid-Oz/1005575 - thanks in advance!
@@robertziade7852 Yes. I use Titebond on all my projects. I've never tried Titebond III with this, but that glue is waterproof. Might be a cool experiment.
Good video! I am a signman and work with MDF, very frequently (carved panels, cut out letters, etc.). I was unaware of this product. Normally, we seal the edges with Durham's watter putty, which does an excellent job. I will certainly try this product, looks like it works good and a faster process.
@@Stoneforth Assuming this was directed at my comment, I have tried this and it works pretty well on a number of different sub-straights I use. It leaves my cut out letters with a passable edge (not as nice an edge as the Durham's leaves you, but the Durham's takes longer to heal and requires sanding before painting, where this does not). Also works very well with carved faces (seals the routed areas very nicely. I don't know who else this applies to, outside of my business, but I use an expanded PVC foam board for many things (Sintra, Komatex, etc.) and this stuff works great for the edges on that stuff and HDU foam as well. For the PVC, you don't even need to coat the face of the board, or letter, unless you carve into it, as the surface of the material is closed cell and excepts paint very well, untreated. I have not used this with canned spray paint, so I can't speak to that. I spray my signs and letters with a urethane paint through an HVLP sprayer. Thanks, TRZ, for turning me on to this product! it has saved me a great deal of time on quite a few projects where labor costs were an issue.
@@oldroslynboy THANK FOR THAT REPLY, this will help alot of people. i'm struggling to find this product where I live. is mixing pva and water a viable substitute ?
Great tip! I’ve tried paint on shellac white primer but it’s very drippy. I’ve used commercially available etching primer by spray gun but not easy to buy or use. BIN spray bombs work great but it adds up fast and stinks. So yeah, I’ll give this a try thanks!!!!
Good tip. Looks easier than using BIN primer and very smooth finish. I always need to sand BIN primer which creates dust and takes more time. I will definitely try this next time I run into this situation. Thanks!
I rarely have an problem getting a perfect glossy finish on mdf using standard paint and a foam roller. Make sure to slightly round off the edges so the paint doesnt roll back when it dries and shrinks, then roll on acrylic primer with a foam roller, as it's drying make sure the edges are fully saturated, using a brush or the same roller. Once dry, lightly sand with 120 grit sandpaper on a block to smoothen and de-nib and fill or repaint paint any holes or scratches. Tip - everytime you change for new sandpaper give it a few strokes on some scrap material and it won't leave scratches in the primer coat. Evenly roll on your first topcoat, sand with a higher grit paper once dry and repeat. Acrylic paints dry very quickly and if you take care when prepping and painting its not much work. Also it's much cheaper, less messy and smelly and easier to touch up if damaged in installation. Just my opinion x
I've been doing the same thing using water-based clear varnish as a sealant, with the same effect. It very slightly raises the grain but leaves no brush strokes, and a light sanding makes it glass smooth. It also prevents the edges from fraying in use. I tried the same thing with oil-based varnish, and the brush strokes were very evident - it just lies on the surface.
I'm using MDF as my countertop form for concrete. Can I seal it with a sealer then paint it, then put WD 40 on it so the concrete won't stick to the he MDF form?
Can you do whitewash or antiquing type finish with MDF? I had an entertainment center made with wood frame doors and MDF center panel and would really like to antique it.
Should've watched this first and then paint. I'm converting a van with zero experience. It's a slow going, but we learn eventually... In my case it was plywood and it looks terrible right now. I'm gonna try to sand it down and put another coat on top, but I'm definitely gonna look for something to seal the wood. Hopefully it'll work with the putty I used to smooth out the plywood surface.
Late to the party ... just wanted to say thanks for the tip. I do a lot of airbrushing on MDF and keeping a smooth painted finish is an issue I have spent too much time on. I've used a really watered down mix of aquadere glue in a pinch, even a diluted glass resin thinned with some acetone.
thanks! any tips for sealing inside scroll saw letters cut in MDF? Face is not the problem, it is all the inside surfaces and edges of the scroll sawn letters...hard to reach with a brush
Hi! Great video! I am removing the thermofoil from my kitchen cabinets. If I lightly sand and use sanding sealer, let dry and lightly sand again I can paint with a roller, or would you recommend a 2nd coat of sealer for kitchen.? Also can I use an oil base paint on the base cabinets that are not wrapped in the thermafoil?
I'm trying the same thing this weekend. I'm sealing with shellac and using a sprayer for primer and paint after two coats of sealer. I will probably add a waterproof clear coat as well. We'll see how it works.
My cabinets are finished and I love them. I used sanding sealer 1st. 2 coats of paint with primer and sealer combined and I used a product called Tough Coat as a final coat. They look amazing
@@MrBonners thanks I dont know what I would have done without your comment. Most sanding sealer is more expensive than shellac and finishing on a lathe vs finishing on a non spinning object has a ton of differences. But i figured you would have known that
Been using a water and glue mix on MDF for years which is essentially a grain filler/sanding sealer. It's simply a mix of 5 parts water to 1 part water based glue, it gives the same results and is even cheaper than buying sealer. Just one light coat is enough, there's no swelling issues.
what kind of glue? Woodglue?
Thank you.
@@danielm.3403 titebond should work fine
What kind of glue do you recommend?
@@Kyle-wb7wx Someone said Titebond, but I don't see his reply anymore
As a former cabinet maker and chief of spray-paint and surfaces at my old job. I recommend (for normal 22 mm MDF) sanding the edges (not surface) with 120, 150, 180 (in that order) before spraying primer. This is to get rid of saw and burn marks.
First ad one layer of primer to edges and back/underside, let it dry for a couple of hours, sand 70-80 % of primer off on the edge with fresh and sharp 220 paper (or sanding sponge is preferred). Make it smooth to the touch, leave the surface for now. Ad a second coat to edges and first coat to the top/front surface, let it dry over night.
Sand edges a second time until the edges feel smooth as silk (literary as smooth as silk) it does not take long. Use fresh sandpaper not old shit. Use a sanding-machine for surface do it by hand on the edges. For wider MDF such as 30 -40 MM a third or even fourth coat of primer is needed due to more pores. (Its in the process of making the MDF). Sand between every coat. On the flat surface of the MDF (no matter thickness) one coats of primer is sufficient before painting.
Put on one coat of paint, let it dry for 24 hours, sand with 220 lightly on the surface to flaten it. If you have a sanding machine use it on the surface not the edges. Then go more thorough over the edges one last time with a 220 sanding sponge, look for small dimples and fill them with fast hardening filler or acrylic filler if necessary before last coat of paint. On parts with paint all over (a front side and a back side, ex a door). Paint the back/under side first, let it dry for 12 hours, do the edges and then then front/top side at the same time. For a professional finish and with no grainy or foggy areas, you may want to mask the back/underside for ultra super result (due to over-spray on the underside), but remember to remove masking tape before leaving for the night as it leave marks if not removed. One last tip! Always start withe the least visible or least touched part/side of the workpiece and finish with the front/top and most visible edges for best result when painting last coat ;) I done correctly the edges should look as flat and just as smooth as the surface even though the edges have pores like a sponge.
The reason we use primer over anything else is the fact that is fills better, is made for sanding of and dries faster. This sanding sealer is new to me, but seem like a product for the same use I presume. Good luck.
Henrik, I really like your process. When I spray doors, as I get closer to the edges, I get overspray that goes on the backside, which I painted the day before! I think I will try to mask it, but that’s more work and time consuming. Any tips?
@@suzieleroux9402 If you are good at masking it only takes +- five min pr door/piece (depending on size) Remember to use use a thin (not narrow) good quality masking tape and set it 1-1,5 mm in from the backside edge. Then cover the tape with a slight smaller piece of paper etc, and tape it to the masked backside edge with more masking tape all the way around. Before the paint is completely hardened remove the masking/paper from backside, there will be i fine line of paint on the backside corner all the way around, which you can remove gingerly with our finger nail or something similar. Result is much better than a gritty surface with overspray.
Very thankful for your comment!
To a carpenter it sounds like it will produce great results! 👍 Now I only need a workspace, time and a spray gun.... 😁
Appreciate you taking the time for this! Thanks!
Just built a massive wardrobe for someone and it took me lots of coats to make it nice. This video is fantastic. I'm soo grateful
Been using this method for a while, it's like magic! One other tip, if you find that your top coat is not compatible with the sanding sealer, shellac works nicely too.
I recently purchased my first home and decided to make my baseboards out of MDF of course in the bathroom and kitchen I use a different material. This information was very helpful... tomorrow is Saturday...the pup and I are getting busy. Thanks Again. God Bless
Had to come back to say this tip is a game changer! This makes such a huge difference when spray painting MDF, especially the end grain or any routered faces.
Awesome, thanks Chubaka!!!!
This method solved a different problem for me. It's been really rainy lately and humidity has been over 90% the past 2 weeks or so. A lot of the mdf I had in storage started growing mold. Had to throw out a couple 4x8 sheets which sucked but was able to save the rest with a thin coat of a cheaper version of this product. Thanks! Glad this randomly popped up on my recommendations.
Worked perfectly. Will always choose this route moving forward.
I have been using the same method for a few years. I remember many people saying don’t use polyurethane. Ah but it works.
I also use it the harden the surface of unsanded plywood.
I am the worst at spray painting! I avoid it at all cost…..but now I can’t wait to try it again on both wood and MDF! Thank you so much!
Sanding sealer is so key!!! This is the trick I used to get an amazing finish on my desk!
Zinser BIN Shellac based primer works very well too, and it works great on drywall patches too. Dries quite quickly so you can get to the topcoats without much wasted time.
Yup only thing I use for mdf .
This is awesome I always hated painting mdf im gonna try on my diy boombox tomorrow
This works so well! I already thanked you but I wanted to come thank you again. I use a lot of plywood and mdf to make signs. I tried using the sanding sealer on plywood before I painted and it saved me so much paint and time! The finish product was so much better by just applying one coat of sanding sealer.
That's freaking awesome Mr. Gump... I truly appreciate the comment 👊
@@ToolReviewZone using sanding sealer took me from using 3 spray cans with multiple multiple splotchy layers. To painting only two layers. I don't want to compare it to "modge podge" because I hate it and it looks horrible, but sanding sealer is the beautiful!
This is great! Thanks. One trick I learned to get edges really smooth is to sand, then rub a little spackaling compound into the edge as a filler, the sand again and prime as you show here. You get a very smooth edge.
ye poly filler works well for over screw holes aswell before paint
This is great timing seeing this video. I had planned to buy plywood for my CNC spoil board permanent base. But my local hardwood dealer had hardwood veneered MDF for only $25 a sheet so...money talks! However, since I'm carving the machine logo into the base surface slats with a V bit I wasn't sure how to seal the MDF before painting the engraved logo. Now I do!
I do the same process of sealing MDF, but I use alcohol based sanding sealer or thinned Shellac. Because that are both alcohol based products, they dray very fast and they seal the MDF very well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have a project coming up that requires the MDF to be painted. I've tried painting MDF before and the results were less than expected. Can't wait to try this method.
Let me know how it works out for you!!!!
Thanks for the tip! I had completely forgotten about this product as I used it 25-30 years ago building RC airplanes.
Your video just changed my world. I have been trying to figure out how to paint the ends of MDF for so long. I can not wait to try this out.
Good experiment! I personally would avoid anything water based when sealing MDF. I think BIN primer or Kilz would be the best option for sealing MDF. I am partial to BIN because it it shellac based. Being shellac, it is alcohol and not water based. Water + MDF = :-( Alcohol doesn't blow out MFD like water does and its not noxious like Kilz or other oil based primers. Once the MDF is sealed with BIN you can put whatever the heck you want on top because shellac bonds with everything. You can put water based latex or poly or laquer or whatever and since the MDF is now sealed you wont have to worry about the "fuzzy" MDF showing up.
I use 1-2-3 on all my MDF projects, works fantastic, doesn't swell at all
I have some MDF I'd like to make a router table with. I'm going to have to sand it down because it's reclaimed. If I prime it, can I glue another MDF board to make a table top??
Bin didn’t work for me neither did 123
It's filthy stuff though... 😖
Perfect timing! I just purchased mdf and did not know this! You rock!
So glad I found this in time for my speaker baffle boards!!! The timing is uncanny! Great tip!
Thank you so much. Finally someone with a better easier way of painting mdf 💪🏿💯
THANK YOU! You saved my custom built arcade cabinet project from looking like crap! I wish I had know this earlier in the project. Still, it looks amazing now and exactly what I was hoping for!
Freaking awesome!!!👊👊👊👊
I was taught to use this on solid wood end grain prior to staining. It’s trial and error on a test piece, first, but you’ll avoid the heavy, dark color where it would normally soak in. A great place to see if your cabinet maker knows this trick is to look at the top or bottom of your doors and the end of your drawers. Once you see it, you’ll always look for it.
That's exactly what I use works the best outta all the different stuff I've tried . Used to use a bit of wood glue on the edges of my projects that needed paint that also worked well!
Thank you! I just cut a new project on my CNC with MDF and really want a gloss finish. I think this will do it.
I am working with MDF right now. GREAT VIDEO
Nice Tipp. I have some diy speaker that in made if MDF, but I never finished them. I will try sanding sealer before I paint them
Cheers dude making some inbuilt cupboard shelves and wanted to use MDF but was wondering about how to paint. Notes taken shall proceed next weekend 👍👌
You could also use Zinsser Gardz. Comes in gallon size. Works to seal all porus surfaces...MDF and turn drywall paper.
I'll try it out. currently been using autobody filler putty, but this seems easier.
Glad I stumbled onto this vid. I'm designing my kitchen remodel now and will be using MDF for panels in my shaker doors and drawers. My worry of painting MDF has been the scratch-off. It's like painting glass.
So two coats of sealer and a coat of primer, or maybe one coat of Kilz alkyd oil primer then sand. Smooth as glass
I have worked with MDF for years you can even mold the edges with a router , I have always 50% water to 50% yellow glue when the is dry and it does not take long , lightly sand w/ 220 sand paper never had a problem . Use your favorite spray can . do not use any water base paint .
are you saying mix water glue 50 50 and spread that mix onto edges then sand?
Half glue half water is just Mod Podge, right? I’ve got TONS of that stuff! I’m going to give it a try!! :)
I've used PVA glue on smaller pieces, but the sanding sealer looks to look a lot better.
Thanks for sharing.
I've used the "Varathane Diamond Wood Finish", which is a water based polyurethane. It looks identical to the "Minwax Sanding Sealer" and I get the same result that your showing here. Any other manufacturer's water based polyurethane should work the same.
Wow! Great tip! I’ve recently started refinishing furniture for xtra cash and this will speed up my process!
Awesome!!
what primer/paint can did you use ? thank you. looks awesome. getting ready to spray closet shelves
I have used Gardz problem surface sealer from Zinsser for years on MDF prior to painting. Its main use is sealing torn exposed areas of drywall paper, etc. I thought what the hell and gave it a try. Has worked more times than I can count..
hi, thanks for the video.
can i prime with any primer and what about top paint. will use it for furniture and window sills. so it must be able to withstand potted plants etc. and in glossy white.
Awesome...Wonder if that will work when I redo a mdf dresser...thanks for the tip😊
Great suggestion! I use something like that b4 staining; now I'll try this! Thanks TRZ! U da Man!
ill be making a small table for my ottoman using mdf & great tip,, tyvm
Wow nice finish 🙂👍 I will try paint my MDF with your way, thankyou.
Just built a box for my suv glad I came across this now I know what to use thanks
Typed “how to paint MDF” in UA-cam expecting to find a bunch of your typical garbage and found this video…
All I can say is thank you!!! Worked like a charm.
Awesome, thanks for the awesome comment!!!
gonna give it a go tomorrow looks nice and easy to do thanks
The dark brown mdf is actually moisture resistant so water based paints don't bother it. I built my kitchen and master bath with that and it's great stuff. You can use anything for the end grain that's a sealer like kilz but I like the extra gloss you got from the sanding sealer. I spray sanding sealer with a harbor freight hvlp and that makes it really smooth, you should try that, cut it just a bit with water
The water resistant type here in the UK is green for some reason...
I used the sanding sealer for along time. Painted with a gloss and a brush . Well satisfied with the finish.
I actually came here because the UA-cam algorithm told me to.
Lol
Hahahaha. Me too.
Same lol
I've not worked with MDF thanks for the good info im starting bath room vanity project
I searched diy cabinets one time UA-cam ... One time.. but thanks really useful info
This was super helpful. I just sanded my MDF vanity and wanted to find the best paint method. Cant wait to get to Lowes!
Sir! Thank you so much for your video! I’ve had no luck finding a way to paint my inside cabinets made of the material you painted. No one has done what you’ve demonstrated. I also subscribed to say thanks! Best wishes and keep these great videos coming!
I'm so excited! I want to refresh our storage unit and paint the particleboard slabs. I'm so glad I found your tutorial. Thankyou.
Wow! That is an awesome thing to know. Even crafting we buy boards or signs & they are made of MDF. Thank you!
You are very welcome Debbie!!!
This is another level !! Thanks for this experiment . Is there a different between the lacquer sanding sealer and the sanding sealer ?
I spray mine with shellac. Dries really fast comes out smooth. Lightly sand the edges and you are ready to prime and paint.
Will other water based sanding sealers work just as well? Minwax ones dosn't seem like they are readily available in australia. Also what is the exactly paint spray that you used in the video? thanks.
Hey, I was just wondering if you ended up finding a different product for your project? I'm in Australia too and I'm looking for an alternative to Minwax; Bunnings have a sanding sealer from Feast Watson but the reviews are terrible.
Great video! Thanks! I had tried shellac with mixed results. But after watching this video, water based sanding sealer is all I use.
Gonna give this a try for sure. Especially if I get to spank the MDF like that!
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😂
I once spray-painted two small cabinet speakers I made with one can of gloss black. The boxes were made with no panel edges showing. All cuts made at 45 degree angles. The boxes were set up in a hot sunny room and I coated the surfaces once every hour. Just the gloss. The finish was durable and glass like.
Awesome video. I am i able to sand then oil paint on top the sanding sealer?
Sure
@@ToolReviewZoneoh and one other thing. This may sound crazy, but what about greyboard/paperboard/cardboard if you know? I cant find the answer anywhere.
I made my daughters radiator cover out of left over MDF ( so much money saved doing so) and this will certainly help! Thank you!
I'm gonna bet it warped due to temperature differentials.
Thank you very much for this video. Would this method work on the pre-primed mdf baseboards that are sold?
I use mdf with my laser machine to make many decor pieces. Going to try this out. Hope it’s a game changer 🤞🏼
Let me know how other works out Shannon 👊
How did this turn out for you Shannon?
I had to give props to this tip because it really works! My paint job might not be the best but I am sure my shelves is protected than it was before. Thank you!
Edit: I used lacquer sanding sealer and enamel
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Desmond Cesar instablaster ;)
@Titus Terrence thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Titus Terrence It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you really help me out !
@Desmond Cesar glad I could help :)
Will this work on melamine cabinet doors? Also on mdf edging that had water damage and is now exposed? Trying to repaint my kitchen cabinet doors and trim.
Finna make a subwoofer box and we need to make it hella clean. Thanks to this video I don't got to worry💥
thnx for sharing. i need to paint a cabinet which has chipped paint. Do i need to sand off all the paint, then use this sanding slear? or can i go straight with sanding sealer and top coat of paint? it is a lot of work to sand the whole thing and hard to remove top layers.
Definitely sand off the original paint 👊
@@ToolReviewZone thnx for ur response. it is a lot of work to sand the whole top layer tho...i may just go with slight sand all over to make it rough , then prim/valspar ....i saw a guy with a nice video abt it and worked grt.
@@ame4hi304 that's probably the best way to go. Sa d and paint would be much faster 👊
@@ToolReviewZone Thank you, will try.
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem painting the rough side of some sort of fiberboard. Now I know what I could have done.
I learned about sanding sealer over forty years ago in HS shop class although we just used it on wood before varnish. Another tip for cleaning up the look of MDF - you can fill the edges with some drywall mud, let it dry and sand it for a super smooth finish.
Use MDF for panels in doors and drawer fronts. I don't see the sides but will try the sealer on the faces. If i want to use the MDF for a complete drawer front I will use the sealer... Thanks for the video and the trick...
I make 80s arcades from 3/4 MDF. If you want to do this without a trip to the paint store, mix 5 parts water to 1 part wood glue and paint it on the edges and top with a foam brush. Wait until it's dry, then use 220 grit sandpaper and you get a rock hard finish.....and edges that will be more resistant to dents and damage.
Is water proof?
@@josue3434ify I wouldn't say it would float forever, but it's as water proof as the paint that's on it. I've had several ahem, adult cocktails spilled on my control panel with no visible issues. The liquid drips through the joystick holes and puddles in the CP box. LOL.
@@mcseforsale thank you 😃
Very interesting...and paint adheres nicely to that? 5:1 ratio in fl oz i'm assuming, but something like this? www.lowes.com/pd/Titebond-White-Interior-Wood-Adhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-128-Fluid-Oz/1005575 - thanks in advance!
@@robertziade7852 Yes. I use Titebond on all my projects. I've never tried Titebond III with this, but that glue is waterproof. Might be a cool experiment.
Good video! I am a signman and work with MDF, very frequently (carved panels, cut out letters, etc.). I was unaware of this product. Normally, we seal the edges with Durham's watter putty, which does an excellent job. I will certainly try this product, looks like it works good and a faster process.
UPDATE PLEASE
@@Stoneforth Assuming this was directed at my comment, I have tried this and it works pretty well on a number of different sub-straights I use. It leaves my cut out letters with a passable edge (not as nice an edge as the Durham's leaves you, but the Durham's takes longer to heal and requires sanding before painting, where this does not). Also works very well with carved faces (seals the routed areas very nicely.
I don't know who else this applies to, outside of my business, but I use an expanded PVC foam board for many things (Sintra, Komatex, etc.) and this stuff works great for the edges on that stuff and HDU foam as well. For the PVC, you don't even need to coat the face of the board, or letter, unless you carve into it, as the surface of the material is closed cell and excepts paint very well, untreated.
I have not used this with canned spray paint, so I can't speak to that. I spray my signs and letters with a urethane paint through an HVLP sprayer.
Thanks, TRZ, for turning me on to this product! it has saved me a great deal of time on quite a few projects where labor costs were an issue.
@@oldroslynboy THANK FOR THAT REPLY, this will help alot of people. i'm struggling to find this product where I live. is mixing pva and water a viable substitute ?
@@Stoneforth Never occurred to me to try that, but it sound like it would be worth an experiment.. Let me know how you make out with it.
Wish I watched this before I painted my 3d cut mdf last week lol. Thanks
Great tip! I’ve tried paint on shellac white primer but it’s very drippy. I’ve used commercially available etching primer by spray gun but not easy to buy or use. BIN spray bombs work great but it adds up fast and stinks. So yeah, I’ll give this a try thanks!!!!
Good tip. Looks easier than using BIN primer and very smooth finish. I always need to sand BIN primer which creates dust and takes more time. I will definitely try this next time I run into this situation. Thanks!
I rarely have an problem getting a perfect glossy finish on mdf using standard paint and a foam roller. Make sure to slightly round off the edges so the paint doesnt roll back when it dries and shrinks, then roll on acrylic primer with a foam roller, as it's drying make sure the edges are fully saturated, using a brush or the same roller. Once dry, lightly sand with 120 grit sandpaper on a block to smoothen and de-nib and fill or repaint paint any holes or scratches. Tip - everytime you change for new sandpaper give it a few strokes on some scrap material and it won't leave scratches in the primer coat.
Evenly roll on your first topcoat, sand with a higher grit paper once dry and repeat. Acrylic paints dry very quickly and if you take care when prepping and painting its not much work. Also it's much cheaper, less messy and smelly and easier to touch up if damaged in installation. Just my opinion x
Nice 👍 look. Will try it with my paint sprayer.
Thinning shellac works well as a sanding sealer as well.
I love these videos! Thank you for making them with some humor! MDF really does suck to work with, im going to try this today
Haha, awesome. Let me know howbit works out, and thanks for the comment C&L!!!
Gonna give that a try!! Making signs from pine and I can’t get a very good seal. Rather use mdf due to price and how easy it is in my cnc.
I've been doing the same thing using water-based clear varnish as a sealant, with the same effect. It very slightly raises the grain but leaves no brush strokes, and a light sanding makes it glass smooth. It also prevents the edges from fraying in use. I tried the same thing with oil-based varnish, and the brush strokes were very evident - it just lies on the surface.
Thanks for the feedback and info Tim!!!
Same do I.First coat,whater based ,when it dries,sanding all grains.Everything works perfect.
I'm using MDF as my countertop form for concrete. Can I seal it with a sealer then paint it, then put WD 40 on it so the concrete won't stick to the he MDF form?
You dont need to do all that.maybe just paint or prime the mdf thats all... it wont stick to the concrete even if its plain..
I sand first with 220 then use a paint & primer and roll on with a foam roller and look very good.
I found one coat of neat BAL apd primer does the trick on MDF and I use 2k isocyanate paints
would love to see you use montana blk on mdf also ordered some sanding sealer thanks for the tip!
Can you do whitewash or antiquing type finish with MDF? I had an entertainment center made with wood frame doors and MDF center panel and would really like to antique it.
What i have found that world great for painting the edge of mdf is to put a thin Lauer of latex caulk works great! And you get a smooth finish
Awesome! I ordered some MDF surfboard cutouts that I'm gonna be painting and making lamps out of them. This is a great trick! Thanks!
what kind of paint (in colors other than white) is recommended after the sealer if I wanted to roll it on, preferably also water based due to fumes?
You can also wipe on a bead of caulk on the edge and get similar result just use just enough to cover edge. Or you can use aqua coat grain filler
Should've watched this first and then paint. I'm converting a van with zero experience. It's a slow going, but we learn eventually... In my case it was plywood and it looks terrible right now. I'm gonna try to sand it down and put another coat on top, but I'm definitely gonna look for something to seal the wood. Hopefully it'll work with the putty I used to smooth out the plywood surface.
Have you tried the oil based sanding sealer? Does it perform as well or better than water based sanding sealer?
Late to the party ... just wanted to say thanks for the tip. I do a lot of airbrushing on MDF and keeping a smooth painted finish is an issue I have spent too much time on.
I've used a really watered down mix of aquadere glue in a pinch, even a diluted glass resin thinned with some acetone.
Kilz works the same way, but it is a PITA to clean up since it is oil based. Will try the SS next go round.
thanks! any tips for sealing inside scroll saw letters cut in MDF? Face is not the problem, it is all the inside surfaces and edges of the scroll sawn letters...hard to reach with a brush
Hi! Great video! I am removing the thermofoil from my kitchen cabinets. If I lightly sand and use sanding sealer, let dry and lightly sand again I can paint with a roller, or would you recommend a 2nd coat of sealer for kitchen.? Also can I use an oil base paint on the base cabinets that are not wrapped in the thermafoil?
I'm trying the same thing this weekend. I'm sealing with shellac and using a sprayer for primer and paint after two coats of sealer. I will probably add a waterproof clear coat as well. We'll see how it works.
My cabinets are finished and I love them. I used sanding sealer 1st. 2 coats of paint with primer and sealer combined and I used a product called Tough Coat as a final coat. They look amazing
@@agentofparadise did you end up lightly sanding first? Or no need?
Wonder how shellac would do. Love me some shellac on my turnings
I think it would work good as well Brad. Maybe I'll try it and make a video on it buddy 👊
@@ToolReviewZone have at it.... im about to be slowing down for a bit
@@MrBonners thanks I dont know what I would have done without your comment. Most sanding sealer is more expensive than shellac and finishing on a lathe vs finishing on a non spinning object has a ton of differences. But i figured you would have known that