How to Paint MDF Like A Pro! (#10) Looks like a spray finish but done with a roller!
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- How to paint MDF, the easy way, with a mini roller and 1in paintbrush. There is no need to seal the edges with sanding sealer or MDF primers. Just lightly sand the edges with 180 to 220 grit sandpaper before each new coat of paint. The finished wardrobe has 2 coats of primer undercoat and 2 top coats of satin finish.
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Excellent tutorial.
An extraordinary example of how to paint ordinary MDF.
The pointers on light sources, where to start, and where to find paint on the roller for touch-ups were spot on.
Thank you.
Thank you so much for your wonderful comment. I'm pleased you enjoyed it, and I hope you've subscribed! 😀
Excellent what??? Undercoat and painting ....where is sanding? ..The most important thing is sanding here.why didn't make video or did sanding another place .
I do this amongst other things for a living.....if you get some regular premixed filler and water it down then just rub into the edges and clean off with a damp cloth then a very light sand with sone 1000 grit you will have much better edges 🙂
An interesting idea, and I can see this working, but surely the damp filler raises the "grain" of the edges more than just applying a primer/ undercoat. You may be making more work for yourself to get a similar finish.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK tbh I only finish rounded edges like that, forgot to say I PVA after the light sand and then another light sand. One regular square or slightly rounded edges I use paintable Matt iron on edging tape, that saves all the issues getting a good edge.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK In order to seal the edges, I brush on regular Elmer's Glue (water thinned) on MDF before painting. Once dried, sand with either 220 or 240 grit sandpaper. This both tightens the edges, and stops that "fuzz" they get from sucking up paint.
Lovely
@JohnTheHandyManUK I use this technique too, on the edge I'll sand with 80, then a 200 and finish with a 2000, it takes a few minutes to get an almost polished edge and no burring after painting, I like to run the roller in the same direction across the whole piece after each coat. Now for the mind blowing part, if you're willing to put 4-5 coats of acrylic top coat you can get that factory finish with this trick, liberally sprinkle washing up liquid over the top, then with a piece of wet and dry around a wood block work this into the surface in a light circular motion, once it starts to turn white you're polishing the surface, finish the whole piece and then clean the suffice with damp kitchen towel until clean, if you're been a bit to aggressive a light coat will give you a really fine finish
I am about to paint some MDF. Thanks for the advice this is just for me.
Oh wow, learnt so much today. Great tutorial. Thank you John ☕👍🏻🙌🏻😊
@sashiez1 hey, that's great. Thank you so much, and I'm pleased you've enjoyed watching it. 😀
Best thing to do is apply a coat of shellac before painting, because shellac is alcohol based it penetrates well into the surface and flashes off quickly sealing the surface without raising the fibres, works very well on cut edges and a quick sand after applying gives a super smooth surface ready for paint. This even works on the very cheapest MDF which is normally a total pain to paint. Then you can even apply water based acrylic paint and it won't soak into the MFD giving a bad finish because of the shellac.
I guess that might work well, I've never tried shellac, but as you can see from my video there is really no need for extra steps. Water based acrylic paint goes on really well.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK With decent quality MDF that is normally true but the cheap stuff from places like Wicks or B&Q is a nightmare to paint without sealing it first. After applying shellac you can get a paint finish like glass so even with decent MDF it still makes a difference. It especially makes a difference on cut edges when applied before final sanding. It makes even the cheapest MDF take paint like the green moisture resistant stuff.
@schrodingerscat1863 Thanks, that's good to know. I've another MDF project this year, so I'll try this.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Ok, good luck with the project. I was skeptical about shellac myself at first but it was a game changer for me. Only thing I would say is make sure you get actual shellac not something in a can just called shellac. It should be either ethanol or methanol based.
@@schrodingerscat1863 many thanks.
Super super super.What a great finish.
Thank you very much.
Hi John. Your channel is great, would love to see more woodworking videos!!
Hi, and thank you so much for the compliment. This is great to hear. I've several woodworking videos in the pipeline and making a HiFi cabinet will probably be next. Last year I built a "home office" in a garden. It took me most of 2024 which is why I've not published anything for ages. Hopefully this will be a series build! Watch this space!
The singular best information about this is the question of light.
We're working on a project that will have MDF and plywood, would the stuff you're using in this video work for plywood as well? Or would we need something else?
Yes, those paints will be fine on plywood. If the ply edges are exposed you might have to fill some voids but that depends on the quality of the ply.
I'm pleased it's going to be useful. By the way, I think I used a very worn 180 grit sandpaper on it. A new piece of 220 grit would be about right, too. I forgot to say what grit I was using in the video!
Watching this from france 😊…..about to paint my loudspeakers
I hope the painting goes well.
Am so delighted to find your amazing video and other ideas you have many thanks 😊
Hi Joe, that's very kind, thank you. I wish I could publish far more often but editing is very time consuming. I've four projects recorded and awaiting editing!
@@JohnTheHandymanUK looking forward to seeing them 😄
I use the Johnston's paint on chipboard,with very good results.Not used a lot of MDF.
Sand and seal works well for mdf as a primer . Also pva glue the edges to seal them .
Yes, I agree. I've used sanding sealer in the past. The PVA I thin slightly with water.
Thankyou for this Lesson, I benefitted from it greatly. From Chris ... Norwich, England
Hi Chris and thank you for commenting. The one thing I didn't mention in the video is what grade of sandpaper to use. I think I used some slightly worn 180 grit paper. Be careful to keep it flat and not apply too much pressure particularly to the edges.
Great finish! I put a coat of primer on, and then wall paint, there are a lot of rough paint marks left over which will need a sanding down. Should've watched this before I started.
I'm pleased you enjoyed the video. Thanks.
Thanks - about to paint some furniture grade mdf for shelves :)
I hope it goes well.
This is amazing. Going to restore a desk i got that is MDF. Great tutorial.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your desk.
Great video and mercifully short and concise. Although I would have liked to see the top coat being applied
Thank you. I'm pleased you liked it. I didn't think it necessary to show the top coat as it looks the same as the primer/undercoat being applied. It also helped to keep the video short.
Instead of messing around with cling film - I use dog poo bags for small rollers and brushes and carrier bags for large rollers. I've got a roller in the shed I chucked into a carrier bag - and as long as the bag is wrapped on securely - it's still able to to be used for painting and that was two months ago.
As long as it's wrapped well enough to exclude air, then any plastic will do. I've used plastic bags too.
I've been painting my doors using small foam roller and satin oil based gloss. Used the cling film trick during the day but also stuck it in the freezer for a week.... thaw.... and good as new!
What would you do if you were going to paint it in a different colour than the undercoat? Would you still use the undercoat then a different top coat paint?
I'd always use a primer undercoat. For a light coloured top coat use a white undercoat. If you are planning on a dark top coat then use a darker undercoat. Grey is usual. Having said that I used white primer/ undercoat and then a dark green top coat. It covered well.
Lighting trick, end dabbing and diagonal were all fresh info for me. This know-it-all says thank you!
Thanks for your lovely comment. It's much appreciated.
I love everything about this video and your channel ❤️ Thank you John 👌🏽💯
Wow, that's really kind of you. I'm trying to finish editing a video on how to hang flat screen televisions but I've not been well and had other distractions! It's coming soon!
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Brilliant idea, looking forward to it. Hope you're feeling better champ 💪🏽
Great video BTW. Thank you
Thanks, I'm pleased you like it.
new subscriber here from the Philippines! love your videos sir! God Bless!
Thank you, Cecilia, that is very kind of you, and I'm pleased you love my videos.
Please subscribe, it's free, I'm trying to get to 2000 subscribers by the 1st May.
Beautiful work❤❤❤❤
Thank you. 😃
I appreciate what you did for your grandchildren, but we, as Arabs and Muslims, have a method of dyeing that preserves the MDF board for a long time.In the beginning, we sand the board with fine sand, then we take a little zinc powder, we dissolve it in the thinner, then we take a little oil dye, mix them well, paint it, and after it dries completely, we sand it and smooth it. Then we take again the Londoy paste, which is known as wall paste, and add zinc to it, as well as oil dye, a little white glue, and a very small amount of thinner, and mix them well Then, after complete drying, we sand it and smooth it, and finally we paint it with oil dye in any color we want. These stages give the MDF unit a longer lifespan and a good marble texture. 😊
The correct amounts for the second putty for the second stage are: 6 parts Speedage or wall putty + 2 parts zinc white + 1 part glue + 1 part linseed oil + a little water instead of thinner, as I mentioned in the comment for stage 2. While the thinner should be used in the first stage in a ratio of 2 parts to 1 part
That sounds fascinating. I've never heard of a method like this. Thank you for sharing it. 😊
@@JohnTheHandymanUK
You're welcome. You can try this on a piece of wooden MDF. Did you read the second comment about the proportions that should be used? I can contact you and provide you with something useful to understand everything I told you
Top jockey. Subscribed.
Thank you.
Excellent video! please make more and give more details on types of paint one can use for best Looks on MDF Sheets
Thanks for your kind comment. Maybe I'll do a video on various different paints one day. Good idea.
I’d recommend using moisture resistant MDF (green) more expensive but much better to paint.
I've not had the chance to buy the moisture resistant (green) MDF but hopefully I can try it one day. Thanks for commenting.
😩 I was at Home Depot and was about to pick up a pine wood board until I saw and MDF board at half the price. Now I realize all the work involved in painting it. So I have to pick up primer and black paint and not to mention all the sanding. Something tells me it’s gonna end up costing me more now than if I just got the pine wood board 😩
@MK-qs6os painting MDF won't cost more or mean more sanding than with softwood.
Good stuff thanks !
Amazing thank you so much so wellnexplained
Thanks for your comment it's very kind of you. Much appreciated. 😃
Not sure if replies are still active on this? It would be useful if you included the sanding process too, as its clearly a big part of getting the finish. What grits did you use? Is it a light hand sand or a quick hit with a random orbital sander etc? Hope you can fill in that info for me. Thanks.
Hi Rob, apologies that I didn't really cover the sanding process at all well! Thanks for asking. A light hand sand is all that's required. I think I used a fairly worn piece of 180 grit. If you are using a new sheet be extra careful not to remove too much paint. 220 grit might clog too quickly but if you've got this it's worth a try. It's important to wrap the paper around a flat block and keep it flat on the panel, don't just hold the paper or else you run the risk of rounding over the edges and removing the paint back to the MDF. I wouldn't use any electrical sander, too violent! It's definitely a very light sand, just a couple of times back and forth. I think I explained a little better on this video that you might like to watch.
Cheers, John.
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@@JohnTheHandymanUK Hi John, thanks very much for responding and answering the question. Your video is great, was just giving you a heads up to what info we might need, even if it seems obvious it might not already be known. Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing 👍🏽
You are welcome. Pleased you enjoyed it.
Have you tried using a stabilising solution as a base coat on bare MDF? I have found it really good especially for the edges.
I've not tried it, but I can see it working.
What is the solution you use?
At the moment I have Sandtex quick dry Stabilising solution, I got it from B&Q. It's a clear liquid mainly for naff flacky walls. I've tried it on MDF and you can get quite a good finish on the edges once sanded.
Great video! I'm about to paint a simple MDF desk top, I wondered what the best hard wearing paint finish would be for this? I'm fine with the primer, and I fully expect to have to refinish in a few years since it's in a childs room, however I wanted a top coat of something reasonably hardwearing that works well as a desk surface - do you have any recomendations?
Hi Jim and thanks for commenting. I would think that an oil based eggshell, as opposed to water based, would be very hard wearing. Leyland used to make an oil based eggshell but I'm not sure that they still do. I came across this article that's interesting so I think I'd try Little Green's Interior Oil Eggshell or maybe their Intelligent Floor Paint that is water based. traditionalpainter.com/oil-based-v-acrylic-eggshell#:~:text=Most%20paint%20companies%20have%20oil,two%2C%20which%20brands%20are%20best%3F. These maybe expensive, what isn't these days, so the regular water based eggshell that I used might be good enough for a childs' desk.
I use manns extra tough clear varnish over all my desks....its water based and non yellowing....it also leaves a nice smooth finish so easier to keep clean than paint without varnish
@@kevinstorey9297 Good idea, a varnish would be harder wearing.
Hi John really enjoyed watching your video, very informative. I'm just painting an mdf media unit and interested why you use a pile roller and not a foam roller?
Hi Keith, I've always thought that a pile roller is best for water based paints, like emulsion paint, so that's why I used it. Interestingly someone suggested trying a grey foam roller with concave ends! I bought some and tried them but didn't find any real difference. no better or worse. I'd definitely use a foam roller for spirit based paints though.
I’ve been trying all week to get a decent finish in my Mdf doors. I’ve tried single lines all in the same direction, random directions and a mixture and it looks terrible. I get lines and I get different finishes no matter what I try? I’ve tried foam and mohair mini rollers. I’m using latex (COAT) eggshell. Any tips? I’m now going to have to start again with a new piece of Mdf!
Sorry to hear that you are having such trouble. I've no idea what your latex (COAT) eggshell paint is but can only suggest that you use a water based paint and a foam roller with a rounded end which is less likely to leave lines. Roll the paint out more and use a light touch.
@ It’s a water based eggshell. I’ve tried foam and mohair rollers. I’ve tried again with new MDF and the primer and it’s not too bad now. Perhaps it’s down to it being a very dark colour?
@@CarFinanceSimplified That's really strange as I've never had this issue and I recently painted a piece of furniture in a very dark green which went on well. I can't think what causing the problem.
Good job!
For me on MDF...
Step 1.
2 coats of Killz Original primer/sealer (oil base) roll on or sprayed on to MDF
Step 2. Final sand with 220 grit. I use my Mirka 6" sander
Step 3. Spray 2 coats of latex paint
Always looks beautiful.
We don't have Kilz in the UK, and I've no idea what latex paint is similar to in the UK. Good, you've a product that works for you. Personally I'd stick with water based paints as cleaning up is much quicker and easier. Drying time might be quicker too. Spraying will, of course give a nicer finish, but I wanted to show how to get a finish by hand that's almost as good. Cheers.
Most people at home don't have access to a spray gun, nor a sander necessarily. That's the whole _point_ of this video - it's perfect for the ordinary person on a budget who doesn't have the things you do.
Rather odd comment that's All About You somehow...
@@221b-Maker-Street Thanks you for your kind words. Who made the comment "All About You somehow..."
@@JohnTheHandymanUK We call latex paint emulsion here in the UK.
I might have missed something but was that just two coats of the undercoat? What paint would you recommend for a different colour top coat?
Yes, two coats of primer/ undercoat. The top coat can be any paint that's suitable for wood. The can will tell you.
@JohnTheHandymanUK Thankyou!
Hello, what kind of paint did you use? Water, vinil, or polyurethane?
As I mentioned in the video I used an acrylic primer/undercoat and a satin finish top coat. Both are water based and made by Leyland.
Great tips, thanks
You can get an even better finish if you use a foam or a flocked foam roller.
nice job
Thank you.
That was great I could understand every word. As someone with not the best hearing I struggle with many videos. Glad to have found your channel John, I don't suppose you want to do some nice clear videos on computer and tech stuff do ya? lol
Thanks Steve for your kind message and I'm pleased you've found my channel. I hope you've subscribed as it helps the channel! I don't have the best if hearing either so it's good to know you can hear me clearly. Subtitles are accurate too. I always watch with them on. Computer and tech stuff isn't really my forte, sorry.
Very well explained. Thank you
Thanks for watching and pleased you enjoyed it.
Hello, how are you? My name is Jamal from Morocco and I am 30 years old. I work in the field of wood paints and I have more than five years of experience
Hello Jamal, I am well, thank you. What kinds of things do you paint?
I work in wood dyeing and wood painting in Morocco, and I have pictures and videos. If you have WhatsApp, send me your phone number so I can show you these videos and pictures.
John toolststion do I mini foam roller that stops tram lines , it’s concave at each end . They are black . Good Finnish with em
Thank Terry. I might try them, although I don't find that tramlines are an issue. Foam roller are generally made for gloss, varnish and spirit based paints, so I wonder how good they'll be with water based paints. I'm making a long wall hung unit for under my TV so I might try them. Cheers.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK hi John I didn’t know that . There called rota . From toolststation . Will try a short pile type to compare . I like using water based eggshell
@terry davies Hi Terry, I bought a pack this morning, so I'll be trying them soon.
Which sandpaper make and what grit of sandpaper did you ask John, if you don't mind my asking ? (Alan)
Hello Alan, I think I used Oakey sandpaper. I buy it by the roll from Toolstation or Screwfix. I believe the grit was 120, but it was quite a well worn piece. Probably 220 would be best if it's a new sheet. You don't want to remove too much paint! I'm very gentle rubbing the surfaces down.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Thanks for the info John, very good of you.
Any tips for painting on shinny acrylic Faced MDFdoors - is there any special paint I can use - what is the preparation?
This isn't something that I've tried but if you are in the UK then look at Bedec Multi Surface Paint. As for preparation, clean the surface well and perhaps lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean again before painting. Try an inconspicuous area first! Do let me know how you get on.
Thank you can I please ask about sanding. Do you sand all over between all coats or just the edges? Many thanks. Emma
Hello Emma, sorry I didn't make this clear in the video. Yes, I did sand very lightly all over. I hope this helps. John.
Superb thank you
Thank you Matthew, I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
I am about to paint some MDFs that will be used as a door under my stairs. And later will be building a wardrobe. What paint would you recommend? I already bought a Dulux wood paint satin finish but then I saw Dulux furniture paint and got confused. Any comments on this? Perhaps furniture oriented paint would be more appropriate than wood paint? Thanks
Any satin finish water based paint will be ideal. As you have it I'd use the Dulux paint you've already bought. Eggshell finish, water based, is what I'd use. It will give a hard wearing satin finish, a slight gloss. I suspect these so called furniture paints are nothing different just a crafty way for manufactures to charge more for the same thing with a different name!
Doors have been painted for decades with good old gloss and satin finish, so stick with them.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Thanks :)
No sanding? Some MDF has a shiny surface that does not accept paint till you do.
I've never come across any MDF with a shiny surface that needs sanding first, unless it is laminated of course. Ar you in the UK? I'm curious to know what you have in mind.
@JohnTheHandymanUK Yeah the UK. Maybe it's because I use thin sheets it's like that
Hi! Not sure you reply to old videos, but if you do, how do I paint a board that’s not new, it’s got all kinds 0f paint residue on it, and some edges have lost paint, just normal wear and tear of a work table. Is it even worth trying to make it smooth surfaces again?
Hi, I think this depends on what kind of surface finish is already on the table. If it's painted then I'd rub it down well with 120 then 240 grit sandpaper, wipe the surface clean and apply a primer then a topcoat. You can buy Multi Surface Paints, Bedec is one brand. This might work well with a couple of coats. This approach might work if it's stained.
Great easy to follow video. I subscribed. I'm about to paint a 8ft by 3ft 5 inch new MDF kitchen island top in white. Would you recommend satin paint to finish alone or do I add clear varnish over it also? TY Kate
Thanks for your kind comment and for subscribing. Firstly I’m not sure that MDF is the best material to use for a kitchen worktop. If the fibres get wet they will swell and you’ll be sanding and repainting these little areas. However, if you do use MDF be sure to seal/paint the internal edges really well, like a sink opening, and pay special attention to the ends of boards. I’d be worried that a clear varnish might discolour and go yellow over time, they used to years ago but perhaps they are better these days. I think I’d try an Eggshell finish over two coats of primer sealer. Use a spirit based eggshell not water based, as I think it will be more durable. If the tin says something like “clean brushes in white spirit or a proprietary cleaner” then it is spirit based. If it says “clean with water” then it is water based. Leyland Paints make this, amongst others. Have a look at my video How to Build a Wardrobe, it might help you. Good luck.
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@@JohnTheHandymanUK TY so much fir responding ! It's a countertop on an island no where near water or cooking heat source. It's a temporary measure for a year until I install a complete new kitchen. I just need to cover up the existing countertop after removing an inset stove top which left a large hole. It's purely a quick cosmetic fix. 30k for a new kitchen isn't in my budget currently, $60 MDF was 🙃 I will check out your link . Regards Kate
@@madhattersoriginal6258 You are welcome Kate. I'm guessing that you are not in the UK as you mentioned $. If this is the case then your country may not use the word Eggshell and you may not have Leyland Paints. Since it's temporary and not going to get wet then I think a water based eggshell will last you but a spirit base paint, could even be gloss, should be more durable. Regards, John.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK A Brit in USA. I was thinking 2 coats primer, sanding between. 2 coats Water based Eggshell,. Should I sand lightly between those 2 eggshell coats? Really appreciate the recommendations. 😊
@@madhattersoriginal6258 Hi again, yes a very light sand between all coats. Like in the videos just a couple of rubs side to side will do. Use a fairly fine grit of sandpaper, say 120 or 180. Be careful of the edges, it's easy to remove too much paint!
What grade of sandpaper to you sand edges to and what grade in-between coats thank you
I use 180 grit everywhere. Be sure to wrap the paper around a flat block and use it hand held or else you are likely to round over the edges.
Good tips 👍 I personally use Zinsser bin works better on the edges and face work
I'm not a fan of Zinsser particularly the stain blocker which doesn't work! It's more expensive than ordinary acrylic primer sealer and satin coat too. It you like it that's great.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK it’s not the stain blocker I use, it’s the one in the red tin that you meths or alcohol to water it down. Massive advantage on edges as it plucks the surface like sanding sealer does with wood and sets just as quick then just cut it off with 120. It makes a good base for any other paint you want to use
@MrRodigan yes I realise it's not the stain blocker that you use. I'm just saying that this Zinsser product doesn't work!
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Zinsser stain blockers work but most people use the wrong product in the wrong place because they don't read the instructions on the tin.
Zinsser stain blocker is water based, well it was when I tried it. This causes the stain to bleed through so is useless. A spirit based paint always works. This can be overpainted with something different if required.
Is pressboard the same as MDF? I’m trying to paint a pegboard that is pressboard and the paint just soaks into it. Suggestions? Thank you
I've not heard of pressboard but a quick Google search suggests it is not the same as MDF. You could try sealing the board faces and sides with a slightly diluted solution of PVA, wood glue. Applying two coats of white emulsion paint might work also.
When i use the roller. I get lot of bubbles. They pop eventually
Maybe there is too much paint on the roller, or it's not the right type of roller. At least they go eventually.
Very good thank you.
I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
I've got some to do, for the first time, so will mirror your approach.
@@jimestall good luck with it.
greetings from Pakistan... great video
I'm very pleased that you like it.
How do I go about painting a smooth table top, like Formica.
I'm not sure about that. I'd try sanding it to provide a key, then paint with an all surface paint something like Bedec Multisurface Paint.
nice work
Thank you.
well I thought there was going to be some pearls of wisdom, but really it was; just paint and sand and paint again. did I miss something? what I do after first prime coat is use two pack wood filler on the edges and then sand back. You get a glass like edge, not average looking edge as here
It as simple as paint, sand and paint again. It really doesn't need to be any more complicated! My edges look better in real life than in the video but if you have the need for glass like edges and have the time, then any kind of filler is going to help.
Nicely done. What grain for the sand paper?
Thank you. I think that I used 180 grit sandpaper, but it was quite well worn. With a new piece I'd start with 220 grit.
Does mdf, architraves, have a plastic coating?
I don't think they do. They usually have a coat of white primer on them. It is best to give another coat of primer before the top coat.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK tha k you very much 👍
Did you use furniture grade MDF for this project? The bare edges at the beginning looked so much better then the MDF from Wickes or timber yards. Great job. 👍🏻
Hi Jason, no I used standard grade MDF from my local Covers Timber Merchant. I've not heard of furniture grade and can't see it mentioned on Google. The edges were cut with a good track saw and lightly sanded before and during painting, but I imagine you've seen that.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK sorry, I call it furniture grade but it’s better known as Medite MDF. 😊👍🏻
@@jason-hh6lu I've never used Medite but certainly would in any damp or potentially wet situations.
@@JohnTheHandymanUKif you’re using mdf in damp areas use MR MDF its green and stands for moisture resistant medium density fibre board. You can get fully waterproof mdf but it’s very pricey.
@@jimgeelan5949 Hi, yes I'm aware of moisture resistant and fully waterproof MDF, Medite Tricoya, but I've never needed either. Thanks.
Nice
I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
I have lot of laminate furniture … do you recommend me how to paint it ?
In the UK You can buy Furniture Paint for laminated furniture like kitchen cupboards. Clean the surfaces well and lightly sand before applying the paint. Try 200 grit sandpaper. Don't worry if the paint looks streaky as a second coat will go on better. I've not tried this myself, but I expect it works well. Good luck.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK do I use primer before. I was at handyman store they were suggesting me to use special primer which will work good with plastic surface
@akshay wani I don't think the furniture paint requires a primer. In the UK we also have Multi Surface Paint that doesn't need a primer.
You are so talented. Love it!
Thank you so much. I appreciate your comment. 😀
Nice editing
Thank you. It was fun to edit.
Good job re paint finish, but would have liked to see you sanding...which is my big bugbear
Thanks for your comment, and yes I should have shown the sanding. My mistake!
Dear John, this is super helpful thank you! I have a new utility set of cupboards that I am hoping to paint myself and this has improved my confidence in attempting it!
I wonder could you advise me, the edges of the cupboard doors have a fine bevel that the carpenters put on them. However they do have a few little areas that need filling.
What filler would you recommend using and what grade sandpaper to avoid taking too much off? I was going to start fine and then work my way to coarser if needed.
Many thanks and best wishes!
Thanks for your kind comment. I use this wood filler, available from Amazon and Toolstation in the UK. Ronseal makes a very similar product, although in smaller pots and more expensive. This cheap one works and like all of them, don't apply it too wet, and it should be higher than the hole or scratch you are filling as it tends to shrink once dry. Rub down very gently with 180grit sandpaper. You might need finer, say 200 grit, but the paper clogs quickly turning 180 into 200 anyway! Just wrap the sandpaper around a straight piece of wood first and be gentle. Don't rub too much off. Easily done! Good luck with it.
www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-purpose-premium-joiners-filler/dp/B0046LZI88/ref=asc_df_B0046LZI88/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=214529255954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9385720319937885881&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007038&hvtargid=pla-422334777991&psc=1&th=1&psc=1
@@JohnTheHandymanUK thanks for taking the time to reply! 🙏
@@killingtime8612 You are welcome 😊
Great job! I want to try this with Frenchic paint, have you used it?
I'd not heard of it until now. Looks a nice paint. I've actually got a project that would look good in Frenchic paint. Thanks for commenting.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK will wait until you've tried it. I need to strip the laminate off of my kitchen cupboards and go from there xxx Keeping my eye out for your project, many thanks xxx
@@christinaemerald It'll be a very long time before I try it so please don't wait. I've several other projects on the go. If I ever do try it I'll let you know. Funnily my daughter and I were discussing stripping the laminate of her kitchen cupboards and then painting them. I tried a spare door. The laminate came off easily but the surface underneath was quite scratched (didn't show under the laminate) and the glue left a hard residue. After two coats of paint it wasn't wonderful, due to the scratches that needed filling and rubbing down. We've decided it's better to just replace the doors. Another project perhaps for later in the year!
Its Colin Robinson...😊
What paint did you use for the second coat?
I used Leyland Trade Satinwood. It's water based like the primer. There is no need to used one of the so called bathroom, kitchen of MDF paints as they seem to be much the same and all more expensive.
@JohnTheHandymanUK Yeah I found the so called MDF paints a bit of a rip off. I gather sealing with a decent primer and just paint as normal? Thanks for the reply.
@noodles8203 Yes, a normal primer, two coats, with a very fine rub down between coats is the key to success. Two top coats also.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Cheers John.
Curious question.. why’d you use mdf to build the furniture vs regular wood?
This depends what you are making but if it's something to be painted then MDF is the answer as it paints really well and there is no jointing of pieces. It's stable too and won't "move" like real wood.
What about paint gloss black cherry need primer becsuse its brown colour.I cannot any brown primer.
If I understand you correctly you want to apply a dark gloss and are looking for a dark primer. You may find a grey primer but a dark gloss will cover white primer with two coats I would think.
Hi, what kind of primer do you use?
I used an acrylic primer/undercoat by Leyland paints.
So you don’t glue it first???
There is nothing to glue unless you mean "do I prime it with glue?" in which case the answer is no. And there is no need for fancy so called MDF primers. They are all water based so the general primer undercoat that I used does the job perfectly.
@@JohnTheHandymanUK Sorry not all primers are water based, I have bought oil based primers to use on MDF.
@@cruise2023 Interesting. In the past I dare say I've used oil based primers but it would be decades ago. I've not come across an oil based primer for general use for a very long time.
I would put down a coat of oil based primer with a small foam brush. Then sand, the 2 coats of finish using 1/4 nap roller.....
That's an interesting way, but presumably, the oil based primer takes a lot longer to dry than the water based.
@JohnTheHandymanUK I'm in Canada and am not familiar with your products. The new oils dry much faster, sand much easier and seal much better. I know people are getting away from oil products but I still find oil works best on new wood or mdf.
@marcthibault8723 That's really interesting. The products I used, I'm in the UK, are water based. Maybe we have quicker drying oils based paints like you have. It sounds like you have a great solution. 👍
Nooice!
My preference is to put a coat of acrylic varnish/lacquer as a top coat. It means that you can choose your level of gloss/matt even if your paint isn't available in that choice.
Most often, I used an ordinary matt emulsion. If you are painting to match the walls or otherwise already have paint of the desired colour, you do not need to buy a can of satin finish for what might be a small area of MDF that needs to be painted. The varnish can slightly affect the colour but for light shades it is usually perfectly acceptable.
The best acrylic varnish I found was one meant for floors. It produces a surface that is much tougher than any ordinary paint. And I'd usually choose a semi-matt.
Many years ago, I made a huge desk fitted to the walls. Even after those years of use, when we removed it to make the room usable for other purposes, the finish was in an almost perfect state.
That's a great idea. What make of acrylic varnish/lacquer did you use?
@@JohnTheHandymanUK I think my reply might have been zapped due to including a URL.
It was bought from Screwfix but they no longer stock it.
My memory suggests the company was in SE England - London/Essex/Kent. But I could be totally wrong.
Was in a half-gallon plastic container. However, remainders have been decanted into anonymous jars so cannot refer.
A company called Finneys do something that appears similar and they offer a small sample (charged).
Pro tip, lay off your final coat with a new unused ( no paint) foam roller for a perfect finish
I'll try that one day.
Great video John.. just quick question: shall I use sanding sealer on mdf before painting it white? I am working on a tv wall diy.
Hi, no there is absolutely no need for a sanding sealer. The primer undercoat, or just primer if that's what you have will effectively seal the MDF.
👍👍👍👍👍
All primers say water based, but arent they acrylic? Isnt all acrylic paint water based
I don't think primers were acrylic years ago. I suspect that all acrylic paint is water based.
Not all primers are water based, one can get ( as I have ) oil based primers. Which should be used prior to painting MDF. The other thing is the edges should be sealed if you want them to look as good as the face. Again non water based product to be used, dry wall putty or similar. The paint should also be non water based, oil, acrylic or lacquered. MDF does not like water based anything.
No one ever mentions in their videos of how long to let the paint sit to dry, frustrating. I've been using Behr paint from home depot, and I keep getting blocking issues, I've even let my 1st coat sit 4 days and still having that issue with the objects sticking together.
You make a good point so I'll mention drying time when I edit my video on making cornhole boards. Drying time will depend on the ambient temperature but the primer/undercoat can generally be recoated in an hour and the top coat perhaps slightly longer but not much.
Your paint can should tell you the recoat time
You are using the wrong paint. Latex will always stick together.
@@giovalladares1022 Yes, very true. Water based paints like the ones I've used will easily dry within an hour.
@@mugrock72 In the UK we don't have Latex paint so I don't know what that is. Latex to me is a rubber substance! If it sticks together then that doesn't sound like something good to use! I am definitely using the correct paint for the job.
it's a lot easier when you have a twin to help.
It certainly is!😊
How long do you tend to sand for between coats?
Hi Stephen, a very short time. I'd probably use 180 or 220 grit paper and just very very lightly go over the surfaces with 2 or 3 strokes, no more. The key is to be very light and not overrub or you risk going through the paint particularly the edges. Always sand by hand too. Hope this helps.
Hills Garden
A Satin finish gloss gets very dirty very quickly.
I've never found satin finish to get dirty and I've painted all the woodwork in a house with it.
Nonsense..a type of paint don't get dirty more than another..if there's dirt there's dirt...
👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿
Thanks for a very informative video. I find the Leyland primer quite thick and the roller 'skids' over the surface. Do you thin the paint at all or is it a case of not having too much on the roller by working it on the tray before applying to the surface?
Thank you Martin. I don't thin the primer though you could a little. I don't overload the roller, just work it a little on the tray. I've found that the roller can sometimes skid if it doesn't rotate freely on the frame. This is often a build up of dry paint that needs scraping off.
As a professional, the brush isn't even a authentic factor...just the roller, bullseye123 and euro white kitchen and bath paint
Well you don't have to use a brush but it's likely that you'll have one on the go. Certainly just using a roller would be quicker. One of the points of the video is that you don't need expensive paints like Bullseye123. Kitchen and bathroom paint is as far as I'm aware just water based satin finish but with a higher price tag! These niche paints pander to the DIYer who doesn't know better.
Thanks for your videos John. I am exactly that demographic!!
@@coffeeeater I'm pleased you enjoyed it.
Thanks for sharing
@@solangeherault7038 You are very welcome.
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