BIN shellac based primer on MDF was a game changer for me when I learned about it a couple years ago. Dries fast, and covers MDF edges better than anything.
Great video. Just a note, here in Belgium we regularly paint with solvent-based lacquer. (to protect the woodwork from the rain) And when you have to wrap the brushes, if you do it in saran wrap, you will notice that they harden faster than with water-based paint. Little trick that works well: Put your brushes in water (a container, a bottle, it doesn't matter), it prevents drying. To reuse them later, simply take a sheet of paper towels and remove the thin film of water on the surface.
I love this tip because it does a little Judo move with the chemistry that makes shellac-based products difficult to clean up and turns everything on its head to use that property to your advantage. If a liquid seal is good enough to keep the sewer gas out of my house, seems like it should be good enough for keeping air off my paint brush!
love your videos, the delivery is perfect, the content is to the point, the information is varied and useful to all, and of course the best part...the outakes!
I soak it in ammonia give it a quick rinse then I use soap (dawn) and water to wash off the rest. However, I mostly use disposable brushes and rollers. I've been using shellac primer for about 10 years now. I won't ever use anything else for wood. I love that it dries quickly and sands beautifully!
I discovered this product whan I instoled new architraves and skirtings. I love it! Ever since I'm using it as it dry very fast, don't leave sticks and tin last for long. Only one thing to mention - KEEP IT CLOSED AS ALKOHOL EVAPORATE QUICKLY!
The other thing it’s really good at is covering up knots in natural wood from leaking through your paint finish. It is the only stuff that will do it. Can’t tell you how much I agree with the blade marks and the non chamfered/relieved edges of straight cut flat stock. Makes such a big difference.
I just found this primer on my last job when priming MDF for stair risers. I sprayed it through a Fuji HVLP and it didn’t require thinning. Plus cleanup was easy with inexpensive ammonia. Thanks for the post.
It really does spray well through hvlp.I've used it for a few years and while I understand the concern on flammability, especially when you smell it,that's true of just about any product. It's really useful when using over a previously lacquered surface.
BIN is amazing on MDF/wood/stock as you mention ....I don't like it for drywall though. Lots of folks use it for drywall repairs because it dries so fast, but I find it flashes the wall too much.
Don’t throw those dried brushes away! Leave them a while in a jar of methylated spirits and, unlike brushes that have hardened with oil based paint, the shellac softens up and falls off the brush to the bottom of the jar. If you wait and let the jar settle a bit you can tip the meths back in the bottle and reuse the shellac residue for simple knotting purposes. It’s the only product I’d use for knotting btw. Doesn’t bleed through subsequent coats of water based paints like trad knotting does
Spot on mate . I normally keep a mini roller sleeve and a stubby brush actually in the b.i.n tin itself , i just keep a couple of inches of b.i.n in the bottom and top it up from another tin when needed. If the brush starts to get a bit stodgy i use the method you suggested to liven it up again.
BIN is expensive compared to standard primer, but worth every penny (~$75/gal). It also bonds to and covers stained/poly wood very, very well and only needs a light scuffing before application. I'm refinishing a bunch of stained doors, cabinets & trim in my older house and have been using BIN as the primer with excellent results. It also dries super fast, so you can top coat in just an hour. Two tips... you need good ventilation, as the stuff stinks until dried (again, super fast) and I cleanup with ammonia & water (25% to 75%).
Much cheaper too. The shellac is best for wood but oil does almost as good for half the price and if you get Kilz original or the Zinsser Cover Stain, it will dry pretty quickly too.
@Painmaster212 you can also make your own shellac, make as much as you need and adjust the cut of shellac flakes vs alcohol to your liking, its pretty cheap then!
I may have to try BIN Zinseer when I need to prime something next time. I’ve used the 123 (water based) one previously for blocking a greasy stain that kept coming through the paintwork on my wall and always got on well with it. I’ve been having to do a few repairs around the house of late and your videos have been a godsend - plus I’ve worked in an independent small ironmongery/hardware shop here in the UK for so long… with what I’ve learned from you it finally sounds like I know what I’m talking about! 😂
Carpentry trick I learned from woodshop if you don't mind a little extra work. Sand and finish sanding. Wet surface, dry, sand all over again. You will no longer have a problem with raised wood grain because you already took care of all the raised wood grains of they became wet.
I use sand sealer for MDF but this (Bin) seems like a better alternative to that as sand sealer just adds a step or two sealing the MDF first and sanding, then painting but if you go HAM on one spot and light on another you'll see it if you finish in black.. Bin seems to be a better way to seal and finish.. I definitely like the spray can option for smaller stuff. Can you use foam brushes or does that wreck the finish if you are doing MDF?
man i'm about to scour your channel in case you already did, but if you could do a build video on something like that cabinet you showed and how you fit it custom to that opening, hot dang I'd be thankful.
Can I go back to my finished faux exterior sanded plywood garage door and use the Binzinger to start over. I used Kilz and exterior Benjamin Moore paint and I see the raised grain.
I use the spray anytime I can. The consistency is so thin, brushing or rolling, it goes everywhere and dries almost instantly. Wear nitrile or latex gloves, cause it’s not coming off your hands anytime soon.
What about raising the grain with a spritz of water? Like you would before stain? And then a quick sand. Obviously not the same on MDF since it will just continue to soak and "swell." Just a thought for painting wood. But that product sounds cool. I've never seen it in my area, but I will look into it definitely. Thanks!
LOTS of good information in this video. MDF isn't my favorite material for several reasons, but I've been frustrated with the results the couple of times I've tried to paint plywood. Up until you said "BIN," I thought you might be going to say "KILZ" (same company, I think), but KILZ is supposed to cover up stains. I'm not going to embarrass myself by saying how I know about KILZ.
Great stuff! I wish I had seen this video before I pulled my hair out trying to get kilz 2 to prime bare wood. Stuff works great on your walls but definitely not on bare wood or any trim in general. It’s a nightmare to get on smooth with any brush and with bare pine and poplar it does exactly what you just showed. The original oil based kilz aerosol works pretty well though also and sands easily if you need to
Great tip for the edges of mdf. When it comes to the larger flat surfaces, what do you recommend to get a superflat, smooth and even finish with the paint?
spraying is the only way to get a top level flat painted finish. In my opinion. For the cabinet doors that I did, I applied the Bin primer with a brush and roller and then sanded it nice and smooth, and then I sprayed a water based top coat.
I built a barn a few years ago trimmed with unprimed 2x4s and primed tongue-in-groove trim boards. All of it was painted with outdoor latex. The 2x4s look fantastic and all the T&G is flaking. That's what I get, I guess..
I'll have to try this. Cause the stuff I used, I saw similar promises for it. But after multiple coats and multiple coats of paint, it still looks awful. Although the only thing Lowes shows is 1qt for $25 and 5gal for $300 lol. That seems like a lot
I am going paint a small piece of ash wood with flat white latex and then a gloss poly after. This wood is for interior use and I am wondering if I really need to use a primer. What would you recommend?
What is the best way to use this? It seems a roller could leave air bubbles where as using a brush would leave brush marks? When dry can I use any acrylic paint on it? Any advise would be appreciated
Any primer product you use will raise the grain some! I've been doing cabinets for 30+ years. You will always want to sand after priming no matter what you use. Use 220 purple sand paper even 300 but 220 works.
BIN has its uses, but like you pointed out in a response to a comment, it is flammable, which deterred me from using it.. Have you ever tried wb industrial coatings like Renner or Envirolak? I found the learning curve was not that steep, and i got amazing results. Only drawbacks are they are pricey, and you gotta up your ppe game when using catalysts.Stuff is bad for ya! Great video btw, love your stuff.
So if I wanted to maintain the grain on real wood, would I actually want to use the water base instead and hit it with low pressure to keep some of the grain in the wood??
What would I use to paint wood fascia on a block home built in the 60's ? Roofers replaced some fascia 1x6 wood I believe, some of the old fascia was in good condition so it wasn't removed and I find myself trying to figure out if I need to use paint stripper or sander to prep it for paint. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Need your help!!! I have oak micro laminate kitchen cabinets and they have some texture. I have always hated the colour but am unsure how to get rid of the light texture and now some scrapes and dings. Would this stuff work and be durable enough for the kitchen? Thank you for all your fabulous videos!!!
I just had my MDF and plywood cabinets painted. The painter didn’t know about BIN I guess because the plywood doors are fuzzy and rough. They look bad. What can be done to fix the doors?
Keep up the good work and entertaining video!!! question: the product that you recommended in this video would not be a good fit for a deck, but do you have any advice/experience on a tough but pleasant stain/paint/… ? Thanks and will keep watching. BTW it was the kerkland battery video that brought me to your channel
Cheers and thank you. Hmm the only real experience I have was cleaning a treated deck off with TSP and then using a semitransparent stain. The stain was from Benjamin Moore and seemed to work well. The real surprise was just how well the deck cleaned up with the TSP and a scrub brush.
Been there before! It’s tough especially if you built the doors and you were hoping they would be cabinet company quality-ish….and then they turn out like a 5/10🍻
Hello, 2 questions: Do you use this interior as well as exterior? Have you tried water base primers made specifically for wood? I believe rust oleum and sherwin Williams makes them.
...So my landlord moved my son & I into an apartment that had a spiral staircase leading up to the restroom and bedrooms. The stairs,🫣🫣😩 are horrible! No sanding & primer was used.. The stairs are all raw wood, it looks and feels grainy, sticky and rough, a proper wood paint was not used. It's definitely an eyesore, with black paint dripping on the carpet and wall .. I want to learn how I can sand it out, how would I know what items to gather? I want to start new by taking the paint off, sanding it out making sure I got proper primer and wood paint that complements the natural material of the wood. Do you think this project can be done by someone with no experience whatsoever? Or best to hire someone who knows what to do to make this happen?
Seems I tried everything I had in the garage to seal MDF edges, and what seemed to work the best was super glue. I might have even rubbed a fine layer of baking soda onto the edge before the super glue. Wait! Hang on. The super glue was a different project. My daughter broke the LDF drawer front of a kitchen cabinet in her apartment. When I glued it back together, I used pencil shavings from our electric sharpener. I rubbed the graphite and wood shavings onto one side of the broken piece and super glue on the other side. Then where there was missing material, I pushed some of the graphite and wood shavings into the void and dripped super glue onto it. The glue/graphite/wood made a very hard acrylic plastic patch. I'm certain it is stronger than the LDF junk facing. So anyway, I would think laying a bead of super glue on the edge of MDF and wiping it on with a finger would give a hard plastic coating which could be painted. If I ever have to sink a screw into MDF I always predrill the hole and put a few drops of super glue in before the screw. Of course I have no fingerprints and no sensation in my finger after wiping the super glue, but it comes off in about a day. Use gloves if you like.
A bit more work, but all I do with MDF edges is paint them with white PVA glue slightly watered down. When dry, a quick sand and on with the primer/paint. Works very well edge is sealed and reinforced with the glue. Binz is useless and stinks.
If I use primer on bare wood or MDF, and it 'covers well' then I'm not happy. Primer is not made to cover but to sink in and provide surface for further coats, whose job it is to do the covering.
I got a shiver of pleasure when you showed the closeup of the rounded and sprayed edge of that door header.
BIN shellac based primer on MDF was a game changer for me when I learned about it a couple years ago. Dries fast, and covers MDF edges better than anything.
Great video.
Just a note, here in Belgium we regularly paint with solvent-based lacquer. (to protect the woodwork from the rain)
And when you have to wrap the brushes, if you do it in saran wrap, you will notice that they harden faster than with water-based paint.
Little trick that works well: Put your brushes in water (a container, a bottle, it doesn't matter), it prevents drying.
To reuse them later, simply take a sheet of
paper towels and remove the thin film of water on the surface.
I love this tip because it does a little Judo move with the chemistry that makes shellac-based products difficult to clean up and turns everything on its head to use that property to your advantage. If a liquid seal is good enough to keep the sewer gas out of my house, seems like it should be good enough for keeping air off my paint brush!
i am in europe also; Do you have a recommendation for a local product instead of the zinsser?
🤩 Oh, man have you just saved me a lot of grief. I've got projects lined up like O'Hare departures.
Cheers and thanks for watching 🍻
Bin is the best! It dries fast and gives a super smooth finish.
Agree💯
love your videos, the delivery is perfect, the content is to the point, the information is varied and useful to all, and of course the best part...the outakes!
Awesome, thank you!
I love BIN primer. It's amazing. I use denatured alcohol for cleanup. Works great for thinning too.
I soak it in ammonia give it a quick rinse then I use soap (dawn) and water to wash off the rest. However, I mostly use disposable brushes and rollers. I've been using shellac primer for about 10 years now. I won't ever use anything else for wood. I love that it dries quickly and sands beautifully!
Another great one ! Please keep em coming. Hope you have a great weekend !
Thanks buddy- you to!
Thank you for the excellent advice, Funny Carpenter. Love your humble delivery. Never change that! 👌🏻
Thanks Imran, I appreciate you checking out a bunch of the videos🍻
Awesome awesome awesome, thanks for giving this sparky more tips and tricks! Love from Calgary!
I discovered this product whan I instoled new architraves and skirtings. I love it! Ever since I'm using it as it dry very fast, don't leave sticks and tin last for long.
Only one thing to mention - KEEP IT CLOSED AS ALKOHOL EVAPORATE QUICKLY!
The other thing it’s really good at is covering up knots in natural wood from leaking through your paint finish. It is the only stuff that will do it.
Can’t tell you how much I agree with the blade marks and the non chamfered/relieved edges of straight cut flat stock. Makes such a big difference.
Good call on the knots
I just found this primer on my last job when priming MDF for stair risers. I sprayed it through a Fuji HVLP and it didn’t require thinning. Plus cleanup was easy with inexpensive ammonia. Thanks for the post.
I tried spraying some of it my garage but quickly abandoned that idea...it seems a little too flammable for my liking!
It really does spray well through hvlp.I've used it for a few years and while I understand the concern on flammability, especially when you smell it,that's true of just about any product. It's really useful when using over a previously lacquered surface.
@@nickyb6435 , agreed. I just make sure I have good PPE and plenty of ventilation. A quick sand and it’s ready for the final top coat.
I just have to say one thing after watching your channel for awhile, Your Wife is a Very Lucky Woman! ☺️😁
BIN is amazing on MDF/wood/stock as you mention ....I don't like it for drywall though. Lots of folks use it for drywall repairs because it dries so fast, but I find it flashes the wall too much.
Watched 10 videos before this but yours was my solution. Thanks!
Best wishes on your project!
Don’t throw those dried brushes away! Leave them a while in a jar of methylated spirits and, unlike brushes that have hardened with oil based paint, the shellac softens up and falls off the brush to the bottom of the jar. If you wait and let the jar settle a bit you can tip the meths back in the bottle and reuse the shellac residue for simple knotting purposes. It’s the only product I’d use for knotting btw. Doesn’t bleed through subsequent coats of water based paints like trad knotting does
When I use shellac, I just keep the brush in the jar (for bare wood stuff like saw/plane handles it takes 6-7 layers so it's a multiday affair)
Knotting ?
Spot on mate . I normally keep a mini roller sleeve and a stubby brush actually in the b.i.n tin itself , i just keep a couple of inches of b.i.n in the bottom and top it up from another tin when needed. If the brush starts to get a bit stodgy i use the method you suggested to liven it up again.
@@PasiSavolainenno 0:12 0:13
What is Knotting and Trad Knotting?
So appreciate your channel. I learned about shellac based primers from my local painter. Never knew. They’re great.
You are so welcome!
Seriously world of difference, you just helped me up my game.
BIN is expensive compared to standard primer, but worth every penny (~$75/gal). It also bonds to and covers stained/poly wood very, very well and only needs a light scuffing before application. I'm refinishing a bunch of stained doors, cabinets & trim in my older house and have been using BIN as the primer with excellent results. It also dries super fast, so you can top coat in just an hour.
Two tips... you need good ventilation, as the stuff stinks until dried (again, super fast) and I cleanup with ammonia & water (25% to 75%).
That rounded edge is called an eased edge, for anyone wondering. Dimensional lumber has eased edges as well.
Oil based primer works as well. Slower drying but a bit less smelly. If I have a time constraint I choose shellac based. Good stuff
Much cheaper too. The shellac is best for wood but oil does almost as good for half the price and if you get Kilz original or the Zinsser Cover Stain, it will dry pretty quickly too.
@Painmaster212 you can also make your own shellac, make as much as you need and adjust the cut of shellac flakes vs alcohol to your liking, its pretty cheap then!
Not a secret anymore! Appreciate your videos and the shared knowledge!
I used MDF trim i made in my house. flat PVA wall primer worked great and it was cheap.
Great video! I used BIN on a few upcycling jobs I did. If you use BIN first it stops stains coming through chalk based paints
The wife like the pickle look of the knotty pine bleeding through the latex paint. Thank for the tips. Bin did the job.
I may have to try BIN Zinseer when I need to prime something next time. I’ve used the 123 (water based) one previously for blocking a greasy stain that kept coming through the paintwork on my wall and always got on well with it. I’ve been having to do a few repairs around the house of late and your videos have been a godsend - plus I’ve worked in an independent small ironmongery/hardware shop here in the UK for so long… with what I’ve learned from you it finally sounds like I know what I’m talking about! 😂
Guess where I’m headed? Basement shop to paint some mdf. What a handy tip. Thanks
Thanks for checking out another vid Jim! 🍻
Great tips as always bud!!! Wisg i knwe these when i made my closets, have a great week bud!!!🍻🍻
B I N is great stuff. I have used it before and love it....great video.....Paul in Florida ........
thanks for checking out the video Paul🍻
Carpentry trick I learned from woodshop if you don't mind a little extra work. Sand and finish sanding. Wet surface, dry, sand all over again.
You will no longer have a problem with raised wood grain because you already took care of all the raised wood grains of they became wet.
Zinnser have bought out a water based primer called Aqua now. It’s very good and none of the headache smell from the B.I.N 👍🏻
excellent review and this is super important ... it's good you made this vid so more people know
I use sand sealer for MDF but this (Bin) seems like a better alternative to that as sand sealer just adds a step or two sealing the MDF first and sanding, then painting but if you go HAM on one spot and light on another you'll see it if you finish in black.. Bin seems to be a better way to seal and finish.. I definitely like the spray can option for smaller stuff. Can you use foam brushes or does that wreck the finish if you are doing MDF?
Information and a show 🎉🎉!
Thank you! 👍
man i'm about to scour your channel in case you already did, but if you could do a build video on something like that cabinet you showed and how you fit it custom to that opening, hot dang I'd be thankful.
Hmm I could make one in the future. I just built the boxes 3” smaller than the overall width and then put 1-1/2” flush filler to the wall.
love your videos! always helpful!
Can I go back to my finished faux exterior sanded plywood garage door and use the Binzinger to start over. I used Kilz and exterior Benjamin Moore paint and I see the raised grain.
I use the spray anytime I can. The consistency is so thin, brushing or rolling, it goes everywhere and dries almost instantly. Wear nitrile or latex gloves, cause it’s not coming off your hands anytime soon.
I had to go check if I did a round over on my door trim where it butts into the top piece. I guess I did. I’m glad I’m not a hack homeowner 😂😂👍👍
What about raising the grain with a spritz of water? Like you would before stain? And then a quick sand. Obviously not the same on MDF since it will just continue to soak and "swell."
Just a thought for painting wood. But that product sounds cool. I've never seen it in my area, but I will look into it definitely. Thanks!
Haven't tried that, but could be worth a try.
"pony rides and churros" 😂 😂
Phrases like that will keep me coming back
We screen wood f floors with 120, 250, even 320 sometimes after the grains raised and dried
LOTS of good information in this video. MDF isn't my favorite material for several reasons, but I've been frustrated with the results the couple of times I've tried to paint plywood.
Up until you said "BIN," I thought you might be going to say "KILZ" (same company, I think), but KILZ is supposed to cover up stains. I'm not going to embarrass myself by saying how I know about KILZ.
Good video!
Cheers 🍻
Great stuff! I wish I had seen this video before I pulled my hair out trying to get kilz 2 to prime bare wood. Stuff works great on your walls but definitely not on bare wood or any trim in general. It’s a nightmare to get on smooth with any brush and with bare pine and poplar it does exactly what you just showed. The original oil based kilz aerosol works pretty well though also and sands easily if you need to
Great tip for the edges of mdf. When it comes to the larger flat surfaces, what do you recommend to get a superflat, smooth and even finish with the paint?
spraying is the only way to get a top level flat painted finish. In my opinion. For the cabinet doors that I did, I applied the Bin primer with a brush and roller and then sanded it nice and smooth, and then I sprayed a water based top coat.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Many thanks, will likely try that system next time. Kind Regards.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter what paint to use for last finish? Is water based paint OK for kitchen?
"Pony rides and churros.." 🤣🤣 Love that..lol!!
Preferably at the same time:)
i love shellac. great tip my friend. i'll check it out
I assumed this would not be available here in Australia (all the good paints seem to be US only) but it is YAY
Eugh, I wish I had seen this video two months ago! it would have saved me so much hassle.
nice cabinets!
Thank u
I built a barn a few years ago trimmed with unprimed 2x4s and primed tongue-in-groove trim boards. All of it was painted with outdoor latex. The 2x4s look fantastic and all the T&G is flaking. That's what I get, I guess..
Thank you!
Great tip. Will that also work on plywood edges for furniture that's gona be painted?
I'll have to try this. Cause the stuff I used, I saw similar promises for it. But after multiple coats and multiple coats of paint, it still looks awful. Although the only thing Lowes shows is 1qt for $25 and 5gal for $300 lol. That seems like a lot
I am going paint a small piece of ash wood with flat white latex and then a gloss poly after. This wood is for interior use and I am wondering if I really need to use a primer. What would you recommend?
Great video, thanks buddy
What is the best way to use this? It seems a roller could leave air bubbles where as using a brush would leave brush marks? When dry can I use any acrylic paint on it?
Any advise would be appreciated
thank you for the very informative video.
Any primer product you use will raise the grain some! I've been doing cabinets for 30+ years. You will always want to sand after priming no matter what you use.
Use 220 purple sand paper even 300 but 220 works.
BIN has its uses, but like you pointed out in a response to a comment, it is flammable, which deterred me from using it.. Have you ever tried wb industrial coatings like Renner or Envirolak? I found the learning curve was not that steep, and i got amazing results. Only drawbacks are they are pricey, and you gotta up your ppe game when using catalysts.Stuff is bad for ya! Great video btw, love your stuff.
So if I wanted to maintain the grain on real wood, would I actually want to use the water base instead and hit it with low pressure to keep some of the grain in the wood??
What would I use to paint wood fascia on a block home built in the 60's ? Roofers replaced some fascia 1x6 wood I believe, some of the old fascia was in good condition so it wasn't removed and I find myself trying to figure out if I need to use paint stripper or sander to prep it for paint. Any suggestions are appreciated.
What about oil based primer ??
Need your help!!! I have oak micro laminate kitchen cabinets and they have some texture. I have always hated the colour but am unsure how to get rid of the light texture and now some scrapes and dings. Would this stuff work and be durable enough for the kitchen? Thank you for all your fabulous videos!!!
Thank you again. Bin Zin.
oil based wood primer is all you need for mdf and bare timber hardwoods best to use aluminium wood primer but is grey so will need a extra coat
After application of the Zinzer is it possible to can spray paint over the Zinzer? Im talkin MDF.
definitely
I just had my MDF and plywood cabinets painted. The painter didn’t know about BIN I guess because the plywood doors are fuzzy and rough. They look bad. What can be done to fix the doors?
I just tried the valspar bonding primer can. Seems that it worked about the same for me at half the cost.
Yes bro !!! Round over dem sharp coiners !! :))
Keep up the good work and entertaining video!!! question: the product that you recommended in this video would not be a good fit for a deck, but do you have any advice/experience on a tough but pleasant stain/paint/… ? Thanks and will keep watching. BTW it was the kerkland battery video that brought me to your channel
Cheers and thank you. Hmm the only real experience I have was cleaning a treated deck off with TSP and then using a semitransparent stain. The stain was from Benjamin Moore and seemed to work well. The real surprise was just how well the deck cleaned up with the TSP and a scrub brush.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter If you ever want to do a video on staining a deck I’ll send my address 😂. Have a great weekend!
One tip if you get it on the floor or hands, hand sanitizer removes it too
Dang this video is a couple months late for me. A lot of water based heartache with my mdf cabinet doors! Next time! Thanks!
Been there before! It’s tough especially if you built the doors and you were hoping they would be cabinet company quality-ish….and then they turn out like a 5/10🍻
Sounds like it's actually covering instead of getting absorbed
Hello, what type of paints are best to use over this primer?
Hello,
2 questions:
Do you use this interior as well as exterior?
Have you tried water base primers made specifically for wood? I believe rust oleum and sherwin Williams makes them.
Hi. How would shellac work?
Can you put bin zinzer in a sprayer
I inherited a house with already N painted plywood edges on interior trim. Can you recommend a seller for those edges so I can paint them properly?
Can I pour resin art on top of the BIN base coat?
"Was I even recording?" 😂
Just use an oil based primer it works just as well.
Shellac primer dries before you can get it on.
...So my landlord moved my son & I into an apartment that had a spiral staircase leading up to the restroom and bedrooms. The stairs,🫣🫣😩 are horrible! No sanding & primer was used.. The stairs are all raw wood, it looks and feels grainy, sticky and rough, a proper wood paint was not used. It's definitely an eyesore, with black paint dripping on the carpet and wall .. I want to learn how I can sand it out, how would I know what items to gather? I want to start new by taking the paint off, sanding it out making sure I got proper primer and wood paint that complements the natural material of the wood. Do you think this project can be done by someone with no experience whatsoever? Or best to hire someone who knows what to do to make this happen?
MH ready patch on your counter is the bees knees
Pony rides and churros. 😆
i wonder if i use that on my deck lol
Seems I tried everything I had in the garage to seal MDF edges, and what seemed to work the best was super glue. I might have even rubbed a fine layer of baking soda onto the edge before the super glue. Wait! Hang on. The super glue was a different project. My daughter broke the LDF drawer front of a kitchen cabinet in her apartment. When I glued it back together, I used pencil shavings from our electric sharpener. I rubbed the graphite and wood shavings onto one side of the broken piece and super glue on the other side. Then where there was missing material, I pushed some of the graphite and wood shavings into the void and dripped super glue onto it. The glue/graphite/wood made a very hard acrylic plastic patch. I'm certain it is stronger than the LDF junk facing.
So anyway, I would think laying a bead of super glue on the edge of MDF and wiping it on with a finger would give a hard plastic coating which could be painted. If I ever have to sink a screw into MDF I always predrill the hole and put a few drops of super glue in before the screw. Of course I have no fingerprints and no sensation in my finger after wiping the super glue, but it comes off in about a day. Use gloves if you like.
“ for the love of God “ 😂😂😂😂
"it's not all pony rides and churros." Ha ha ha haaaaaa.
I love kilz2
A bit more work, but all I do with MDF edges is paint them with white PVA glue slightly watered down. When dry, a quick sand and on with the primer/paint. Works very well edge is sealed and reinforced with the glue. Binz is useless and stinks.
Not exact you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean your brush with this primer. I did it.
If I use primer on bare wood or MDF, and it 'covers well' then I'm not happy. Primer is not made to cover but to sink in and provide surface for further coats, whose job it is to do the covering.
Bin Shellac base primer covers great and fills in even better.
noy yt just ads
BIN is great. A bit pricey these days.
👍👍👍
Lindo