@@Bbeavis congrats on the new record! Did you notice any difference in the handling compared to the previous bushes? is smoother, better feel? ( Obviously no more free play in the front end with that busted bush from before)
@@markszekeres7214 The car was not measurably or noticeably different, but it worked well, and I have the confidence that the suspension can work the way it was designed now.
Tip for welding up holes. If you put a backing strip of copper or aluminium on the inside the weld wont protrude past the metal your welding. Its also good for preventing a lot of oxidation of the back of the weld.
It was just a tapped thread, so not really expecting a lot of gunk on the inside as a result. There is a void inside with the pair of bushed feeding in from either side.
In general, there are 3 key items that aftermarket arms may offer: Extra adjust-ability for alignment/camber and/or Lighter weight than OEM arms and/or Extra strength over OEM if you work the car really hard Personally, I think OEM arms are the best choice for 99% of people.
Just use a nut and bolt with two large fender washers to install the bushing. Tractor supply sells grade 8 hardware for $7/pound. Kbs rust seal is a powder coat looking paint too. Looks line factory.
May i ask whats the reason to ream the delrin bushings? What if im running the sadfab sleeves with Energy suspension poly bushings, is it neccessary to ream the poly bushings?
The best explanation, is a quote from Sean of SadFab in the Miata Bush MegaThread: "Delrin bushings press into the control arms easily with a bench vise, or even a large C-clamp if you have to, because of their low friction, and plastic nature. Since they are plastic, they crush a little upon installation. This crushing causes the bushings sleeve bore to shrink, and therefor requires drilling out or reaming after installation into the control arms. Also recall earlier that I mentioned that the control arm bores are ovaled. So when the bushing crushes, its not symmetrical, the delrin bushing bore is now something other than a circle. When you ream it out with the drill bit, you are now indexing the bushing to the control arm bore oval. Its for this reason that the bushings really need to be drilled out in the arm they will be run in, and if they are removed, they should be put back in the same position and clocked the same as when they were removed. If they are ever transferred to different arms, re-reaming them may be necessary." And no, certainly no ream required for poly.
Do you think the later torsen diff would be good for 300rwkw. It will be behind an sr20det with 17x11 semi slicks. ?? If not what seems to be the go here in Australia ATM. I see in America they use the 8.8. Cheers
The factory mazda 1.8 diff should be OK to handle that, but certainly starting to get to it's limit. Slicks will also add to the stress. Beyond that I don't have any experience with aftermarket or custom swaps.
The bushes are not always perfectly parallel and square, and the cam bolt adjusters for setting the wheel alignment demand some amout of give in the suspension bush, hence a poly is required. If it were only delrin, it could likely bind when the camber/toe is adjusted. The poly bushes include the extra bronze insert to maintain free movement. Hope that clarifies.
How did you get your hands on those bushes? I've tried contacting them multiple times and they told me they weren't going to be able to fill any orders in the near future.
Protip: Remove the rear upper outer bush using virtually the same method except with an appropriately sized bolt and washers instead of a shi(quick)grip hand clamp. That way the torque is delivered inline and with a thread you have ample mechanical advantage - they come out much easier, no WD40 needed.
@@Bbeavis LOL! Oh no. That stinks. I'm sorry. Epoxy sounds like a good solution though. Thank goodness for J.B. Weld. Do you have J.B. Weld over there? It's a shade tree staple in here in 'Merica. I've even used it professionally one or twice when no one was looking.
Nothing would "happen" really. Might have slightly different rates of wear, and if its miss-matched from left to right it may handle slightly unusually.
@@Bbeavis well i got some arms on face book for my civic and its eating the bushings on the shock fork and I'm lost as to why, I noticed in your video you greased both the outside and inside (that was not done on mine ,just he inside ) would that help or not or is it that the bushings were bad ?
These are still being produced? I haven't ordered anything from them because I know several people still on a wait list for the delrin bushings...they haven't heard from SadFab in roughly a year..I want the poly bushings and brass inserts but if they can't even respond to emails why purchase from them
Yes still in production as this kit only just arrived on my door step, so they're certainly still doing their thing. I was just patient and put myself on their waiting list a year or more ago.
@@Bbeavis much appreciated! Random question though that's unrelated..it would probably be easier to message on some sort of social media though, I'm trying to diagnose some driveline noises and haven't had much luck with anyone else.
@@Bbeavis ua-cam.com/video/XfkCjDGSVA8/v-deo.html That video is the exact noise ive been having an issue with The other one is a squeak from the rearend that im 99% sure is a diff bushing as it does it at idle and ive diagnosed all suspension and exhaust options. 3rd is a loud deep tone clunk when going over larger bumps....the noises have pissed me off so much that I have a for sale ad active currently😂
@@Bbeavis only other issue is a misfire at idle, but the car does just fine under load. The misfire is big or consistent enough to throw a code though but the whole vibration can be felt in the car
you had the polibushes wrongly installed!!! u had to grind the bushes borders before install them. the borders are not suposed to be jacked against the mounting points... you couldnt move the arm with your hand before cause the sleeve was short and the bushing was pressed inside mounting points
No, that is not the case. In the case of the old poly with it's metal sleeve, sleeve WAS longer than the bushes. Feel free to look up the "Energy Suspension bushings" from 949Racing and their installation instructions.
That shirt though!
Seems like a pretty good guide for this setup.
Forever a nerd.
Love your work 👍👍 looking forward to hearing the feedback of the new bushes.
Thanks Mark, so far all is well, had only one track outing with these installed and the car set a new MX-5 record. :)
@@Bbeavis congrats on the new record! Did you notice any difference in the handling compared to the previous bushes? is smoother, better feel? ( Obviously no more free play in the front end with that busted bush from before)
@@markszekeres7214 The car was not measurably or noticeably different, but it worked well, and I have the confidence that the suspension can work the way it was designed now.
Tip for welding up holes. If you put a backing strip of copper or aluminium on the inside the weld wont protrude past the metal your welding. Its also good for preventing a lot of oxidation of the back of the weld.
A good tip. If only I had a proper workshop or welding setup to do that sorta stuff properly!
I apologize, I did not think that clamp would work. Nice job. Steering response and handling will improve hopefully
I did not think it would either. But I am stubborn.
Interesting subject Brandan! Question tho, and maybe a stupid one, but what are those ‘zerks’ for?
You can connect a grease gun to them in order to regrease the bushings/sleeves (to prevent squeaking or seizing up)
Yep, as Burrito said, the zerk allows regular re-greasing.
Nice work. Looking forward to see how you like then
Cheers John, they have performed well at the one event I've done thus far. Car drove smooth and was able to set a new MX-5 lap record.
I hope you managed to get the space between the bushes clean when you tapped after fitting them @11:40
It was just a tapped thread, so not really expecting a lot of gunk on the inside as a result. There is a void inside with the pair of bushed feeding in from either side.
Using a ratcheting clamp to press out an old bushing must be quite the hand workout! We do what we can with the tools we have on...hand.
Yeah exactly! Not easy but I got the job done :-)
Awesome job.
I was wondering, is there any advantage to going aftermarket A-arms/control arms etc?
In general, there are 3 key items that aftermarket arms may offer:
Extra adjust-ability for alignment/camber
and/or
Lighter weight than OEM arms
and/or
Extra strength over OEM if you work the car really hard
Personally, I think OEM arms are the best choice for 99% of people.
Just use a nut and bolt with two large fender washers to install the bushing. Tractor supply sells grade 8 hardware for $7/pound. Kbs rust seal is a powder coat looking paint too. Looks line factory.
For the most part the vice worked perfectly for pressing in the bushes. No need to spend money when I can make do with the tools I have :-D
May i ask whats the reason to ream the delrin bushings? What if im running the sadfab sleeves with Energy suspension poly bushings, is it neccessary to ream the poly bushings?
The best explanation, is a quote from Sean of SadFab in the Miata Bush MegaThread: "Delrin bushings press into the control arms easily with a bench vise, or even a large C-clamp if you have to, because of their low friction, and plastic nature. Since they are plastic, they crush a little upon installation. This crushing causes the bushings sleeve bore to shrink, and therefor requires drilling out or reaming after installation into the control arms. Also recall earlier that I mentioned that the control arm bores are ovaled. So when the bushing crushes, its not symmetrical, the delrin bushing bore is now something other than a circle. When you ream it out with the drill bit, you are now indexing the bushing to the control arm bore oval. Its for this reason that the bushings really need to be drilled out in the arm they will be run in, and if they are removed, they should be put back in the same position and clocked the same as when they were removed. If they are ever transferred to different arms, re-reaming them may be necessary."
And no, certainly no ream required for poly.
Do you think the later torsen diff would be good for 300rwkw. It will be behind an sr20det with 17x11 semi slicks. ?? If not what seems to be the go here in Australia ATM. I see in America they use the 8.8. Cheers
The factory mazda 1.8 diff should be OK to handle that, but certainly starting to get to it's limit. Slicks will also add to the stress. Beyond that I don't have any experience with aftermarket or custom swaps.
What's the reason for each arm getting a poly Bush and dalerin Bush?
The bushes are not always perfectly parallel and square, and the cam bolt adjusters for setting the wheel alignment demand some amout of give in the suspension bush, hence a poly is required.
If it were only delrin, it could likely bind when the camber/toe is adjusted.
The poly bushes include the extra bronze insert to maintain free movement.
Hope that clarifies.
How did you get your hands on those bushes? I've tried contacting them multiple times and they told me they weren't going to be able to fill any orders in the near future.
I've been on their waiting list for quite a long time, perhaps a year or 2. I just prompted them with a followup every 6 months.
I've almost been waiting a year. I guess I'll just keep waiting
@@barakelium That's pretty much all I did too sadly.
You've mentioned a few times that the lube that came with the ploy kit is a bit sticky, what lube would you recommend using/used for the delrin kit?
SadFab documentation suggests "Grease, any type as long as it isn’t silicone based. We recommend marine type, water proof, lithium complex grease."
Protip: Remove the rear upper outer bush using virtually the same method except with an appropriately sized bolt and washers instead of a shi(quick)grip hand clamp.
That way the torque is delivered inline and with a thread you have ample mechanical advantage - they come out much easier, no WD40 needed.
Yeah my clamp was a ghetto solution but it worked. I really need better clamps. At the end of the day, it worked!
Why not fill in the holes in the rear uppers?
Because I forgot. I will just epoxy the hole up.
@@Bbeavis LOL! Oh no. That stinks. I'm sorry. Epoxy sounds like a good solution though. Thank goodness for J.B. Weld. Do you have J.B. Weld over there? It's a shade tree staple in here in 'Merica. I've even used it professionally one or twice when no one was looking.
@@earlebird4262 Yep we have JB Weld around here.
nice.
:-D
Hey mate I'm looking at using a Miata rear IRS for a conversion. Can you suggest what model and year. Diff options?? Thanks 🙏
The NA/NB models with the 1.8L engine all have more or less the same rear subframe/suspension/differential - that's likely what you'd be looking for.
BEAVIS Motorsport cheers. Trying to find a subframe complete is the tricky part ATM. Trying the usual places but no luck so far.
what would happen if some bushings are robber and some poly?
Nothing would "happen" really. Might have slightly different rates of wear, and if its miss-matched from left to right it may handle slightly unusually.
@@Bbeavis well i got some arms on face book for my civic and its eating the bushings on the shock fork and I'm lost as to why, I noticed in your video you greased both the outside and inside (that was not done on mine ,just he inside ) would that help or not or is it that the bushings were bad ?
@@christopherdaniel6142 Yeah unfortunately I'm no mechanic so really not sure I can help you sorry!
@@Bbeavis was worth a shot
Is there an alternative source for this bushing kit? I’ve email sadfab but he seems to be backed up at the moment.
I'm not aware of anyone else doing this type of setup. I think GoMiata have some delrin bush options, but not to the extensive level of SadFab.
BEAVIS Motorsport I guess I’ll wait till Sadfab gets more settled in. I ended up ordering hubs from another Miataturbo member.
BEAVIS Motorsport thanks for your awesome content!
Why would you put a grease fitting in ?? Delrin is a self lubricating plastic.
Because "self lubricating" is more a marketing term than an actual thing, and it helps force dust and debris out.
These are still being produced? I haven't ordered anything from them because I know several people still on a wait list for the delrin bushings...they haven't heard from SadFab in roughly a year..I want the poly bushings and brass inserts but if they can't even respond to emails why purchase from them
Yes still in production as this kit only just arrived on my door step, so they're certainly still doing their thing. I was just patient and put myself on their waiting list a year or more ago.
@@Bbeavis much appreciated! Random question though that's unrelated..it would probably be easier to message on some sort of social media though, I'm trying to diagnose some driveline noises and haven't had much luck with anyone else.
@@pulsartech2945 I'm no mechanic but do your best to explain and I'll do my best to give you some things to consider :-)
@@Bbeavis ua-cam.com/video/XfkCjDGSVA8/v-deo.html
That video is the exact noise ive been having an issue with
The other one is a squeak from the rearend that im 99% sure is a diff bushing as it does it at idle and ive diagnosed all suspension and exhaust options.
3rd is a loud deep tone clunk when going over larger bumps....the noises have pissed me off so much that I have a for sale ad active currently😂
@@Bbeavis only other issue is a misfire at idle, but the car does just fine under load. The misfire is big or consistent enough to throw a code though but the whole vibration can be felt in the car
you had the polibushes wrongly installed!!! u had to grind the bushes borders before install them. the borders are not suposed to be jacked against the mounting points... you couldnt move the arm with your hand before cause the sleeve was short and the bushing was pressed inside mounting points
No, that is not the case. In the case of the old poly with it's metal sleeve, sleeve WAS longer than the bushes. Feel free to look up the "Energy Suspension bushings" from 949Racing and their installation instructions.
Through the whole video you speak about bushes, but NOT once do you go into your yard and show us any bushes. WHY ?
Lol. I'm sorry. I like to maintain some personal life. My bushes are MINE!